IIl.MlV    M.   MAM.KY. 


DAVTR  LIVINGSTONE.— From  a  Photograph. 


,    COIMUPZCZETIE. 

THE  LIVES  AND  TRAVELS 


COVERING    THEIH    ENTIRE   CAREER    IN 

SOUTHERN  AND  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 

CAREFULLY  PREPARED 

From  the  most  authentic  sources,  vir, :  Livingstone's  two  large  volumes,  "South  Afrita,"  and  "The  Zambesi 
Expedition ;"  his  "  Last  Journals"  (edited  by  Horace  Waller),  the  Reports  of  the  London  Geographi- 
cal Society,  the  works  of  their  cotemporaries,  and  various  other  writings  bearing  upon  the  subject. 

A    THRILLING    NARRATIVE 


^Utoentures,  Discoveries,  experiences  cmb  SUljiroements 

OP 

THE  GREATEST  EXPLORERS  OF  MODERN  TIMES 

IN    A 

WILD  AND  WONDERFUL  COUNTRY, 


INCU'DING 


Livingstone's  E?rly  life,  Preparation  for  his  life-work,  a  Sketch  of  Africa  as  known  before  his  going  there,  the 

entire  Record  of  bis  Heroic  Undertakings,  Hazards,  Hardships,  Triumphs,  his  Discovery  by  H.  S.  Stanley, 

Lis  lonely  Death,  faithful  Self-devotion  of  his  nathe  Servants,  Return  of  the  Remains,  Burial,  etc. ; 

the  work  taken  up  by  Stanley  ;   the  Three  Great  Mysteries  of  the  Past  five  thousand  years 

•olved  by  Stanley  ;  concluding  with  a  clear  and  concise  survey  of  the  continent  touching 

its  Agricultural,  Commercial  and  Missionary  promise,  the  Jiile  mystery,  etc.,  a* 

gathered  from  the  works  of  Livingstone,  Baker,  Speke,  Grant,  Barth,  etc. 

BY    REV.    J.    E.    CHAMBLISS. 

-K*-  '        ' 

RICHLY    ILLUSTRATED. 

BOSTON: 

DE  WOLFE,   FISKE   &  COMPANY, 

PUBLISHERS. 


Kaur«l  verting  t..  Act    f  C.ngrt..,  In  tt«  jm  IWl,  Ij 


t..ti.  I).  C. 


PREFACE. 


MY  task  has  been  to  write  a  book  setting  forth  as  clearly  as 
possible  the  life-work  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  in  its  connection  with 
the  history  of  the  African  continent,  and  its  bearing  on  thosy 
great  issues  involved  in  the  redemption  of  that  continent  from 
gloom  and  barbarism.  I  have  followed,  as  closely  as  the  subject 
demanded,  the  books  and  journals  of  Dr.  Livingstone  himself, 
for  his  personal  observations  and  adventures,  and  have  availed 
myself  freely  of  whatever  I  have  found,  in  a  wide  range  of 
works,  in  illustration  of  the  character  and  customs  of  the  people, 
the  appearance  and  condition  of  the  country,  the  habits  of  ani- 
mals, and  have  freely  seized  such  facts  of  science  and  of  general 
history  as  have  seemed  to  have  a  bearing  on  my  subject.  Where 
I  have  drawn  on  the  works  of  others,  I  have  done  so  more  for 
facts  than  for  the  form  of  putting  them,  and  I  have  not  been 
particularly  careful  in  making  quotations,  that  they  should  be 
literal,  nor  has  it  seemed  important  in  a  work  designed  fot 
popular  patronage  to  make  frequent  mention  of  authorities.  I 
have  had  at  my  command  the  most  reliable  sources  of  informa- 
tion concerning  the  things  of  which  I  have  written,  and  while 
I  am  conscious  that  there  are  imperfections  in  the  book,  I  have 
tried  to  make  it  a  faithful  record,  a  clear  delineation  of  character, 

and  a  reliable  witness  in  connection  with  the  great  interest*  ia- 

3 


4  PREFACE. 

v«»lv«il   in  the  question  of  African  civilization,  as  far  as  these 
matt«-r-  i-»«uld  U-  considered  under  the  circu instances. 

If"  t!i«-  n-t«l«  r  •_" -t--  a  tnu-  ami  lull  conception  of  the  work  of 
I>r.  Livi'.i;:-t«>M' •,  <-it'hi-  anything  <>f  his  manliness,  love  for 
iijt-n,  :ni'l  /-.il  i»r  <  'hri-t.ainl  IK. -nines  nmn-  deeply  interested  in 
tin-  i:r«-.it  i  iit«  rjin---  "ii  \vhii-h  tin-  deliverance  of  the  millions 
«.t'  that  n:ih:ijtp\  .•••Milip-nt  trmn  the  dominion  of  igiioranee  and 
Mlju-r-titi'iii  aii'l  \  i-  <  I|I-|H  n.|-.  il'  he  IIM-OIIKS  onlv  ;i  little  \vis<.T, 
nn«i  -tn»n^«T.  :md  U-tt«  r,  and  nohler,  through  rwidinj;  the  lMM)k, 
I  will  U.-  Hati-li«  tl. 

J.  E.  ('. 


CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTION. 

Early  Civilization  in  Northern  Africa— The  Limit  of  the  Ancient  Civiliza- 
tion— Theatre  of  Mythology— Saracen  Conquest— Settlement  of  Soudan — 
Mohammedan  Failure. — The  Fifteenth  Century — (iilianez  Passed  Cape  Ro- 
jador— Portuguese  Efforts  on  the  West  Coast — Roman  Catholicism — The 
Failure — England  and  France — Richard  Jobson — Mnniro  Park  —  I)enhaia 
and  Clapperton — Richard  Lander  I>is)>cls  the  Niger  Mystery  —  Kingdoms 
on  the  West — Dahomey,  Ashantce,  etc. — Tl.e  Cape  Settlement — Yaseo  d«; 
Gauia — The  Settlement  of  Natal  by  the  English — Lieutenant  Christopher 
— Abyssinia  and  the  Nile— Hruce  and  Dr.  Beke— The  Nile  Mystery  us  it 
Stands — The  Uiikiwicn — Livingstone 17 

CHAPTER    I. 

BLANTYRR    TO    THE    BAKWAINS. 

Noble  Names — David  Livingstone — Blantyre — Home  Traditions — The  Fac- 
tory— Common  School — Latin — Love  of  Hooks — He  Honest — Flis  Father — 
Mother — Scottish  Poor — Hothwell — Conversion — Missionary  Spirit — ( 'liina 

—  Medicine — Astrology — (ireek — Theology — Africa  —  Thorough    Prepara- 
tion— 1S40 — Leaves  England — (iocs  to  South  Africa — Condition  of  Country — 
Cape  Colony — Cape  Town — Altroa  Hay — Port  Elizabeth — Ktirnman  or  Lat- 
takoo — Dr.   M  oft  at — Northward — .Studying   Lair_ruar_re,  etc. — Selects   Mata- 
bosa — Settles — Kindness    to  the    Natives — A  Lion  Encounter — .loins   the 
Bak  wains ;;3 

CHAPTER    II. 
1843—1850. 

The  Hechnanas — The  Bakwains — Sechelc — His  Conversion  — Hi-  Difficulties 
— The  (iovernment — Baptism  of  Sechelc— <  Yoss  and  (  Yown  —  Ditliculties  <>f 
the  Work  — Belief  in  Rain-Makinu'—  Dr«.uirht—  Nobl,.  ( 'onduet— The  H..J.O 

—  Kindness  to  Livingstone — Living-tone's  Spirit — The    Boers — Slavery  — 
Antagonistic  Principles — Boers   Hate  Livingstone — Secln-le's  Roistance — 
Livingstone  Accused  — His  Ell'ects   Destroyed— (Joinc:   Northward—  IV-ire 
to   find  the    Lake — 1'e-ireto   see  Sebituane— Sekomi— The  De-crt— Bu^h- 
inen — Bakalahari — Water  Suckinir — Across  the  Desert-  -Difticuliies — Salt 
Pan*— The    /ou-ja— (Quakers   of   Africa— Lake    N\'ami    Di-cov,  r.-d— The 
Lake — Sebituane — (Jnides    Refused— Sketch   of    the  ZOIUM  —  El.-phants — 
Trees — Fish — Bayieye — Kolobeng  Again — Home-life  in  Kolobeng 44 

5 


CONTEXTS. 

CHAPTER    III. 

DEPKKT*   AXI>    K 

Journry  u>  thr  Ij\kf  ~I'»wt  tin-  /^>uea—  Forests—  TtetM 
- -ItrrnnA  thr /»itiipt- •I.akr  Nkimii  Air-iin  H--IH-.  nfM-vini;  Sfhituane — 
<imd«-»S.rcur.-d  Su-kncvi<.f  rhildrm  Kriurii  t"  K»l««U-inr---<  >|ipnMtionof 
«'hic»V  Srl>it!i.inr'«  Mr*MMitr«ri»  Third  Start  Tin-  <  »!d  I'atli  I»tMTt — 
<iuid«' W..nd«-r»  -  Fivr  Tcrnfdr  I>av%  Water  r»uiid  Haiwjna— (iuide  to 
ihri'ho'-  M.ik.i I..!..  M<-«t.»  Srl.ituam-  IVatli  ..("  S.  hiuuin.-  I>isoiiv»Ty 

•  •(  tin-  y_«MiU-»i     Ilcttirii*  t«'  t'ajn--  Srnili  hi*  Kainily  t<-  Kiitrliiii'l     A  N»-\r 
T--«r  l'ii.l<  rt.iV.rn      Tarty    -<»rm-ml  Hra      Fi'Miu-r  <  K  i-uj-ani-  ••!    iln-('a|>c 

H.-T»  of  ti..- «  .i]»-  <  iri-iua-.' T«-rrit<-rv  Kt!i-<-t«  ••!"  Mi»-i"ii  \V  i>rk  Knru- 
lu an  l»r.  M..ff;\t  HIM*  Tninthitnni  Ijtiu'<i»^i-  War  ••!  !:••»  r»  l>itt)<-ul- 
t)i-»--S«Tvaiil»  S«-«-iir«-<l  Start*  N'-rth  l.n>n  |kult.il<>  >«-.  h.  1.  -,  'Imir  — 
>«r|ipnt.»  Tin-  <  Mrx-h  -  M-itliwu  lU-lii-f  ID  <n»l  S;ilt  I'ans  K«xilx? — 
F»mi*hr<!  H«-a.»t*  Livinfr«t«nf'*  Kiii'ln<-»»  Trrnn-n<i"U»  Trr«-s  Sinirular 
Vitality  ri\ili/«-l  n.  Nnltvr  Huntrr»  I  Uku  (in-1  Sunday  l»inVult  Ad- 
\.\Hcr  Thr  \Vitv  t..i'ut  with  th.-  Ax<-  Wild  Animal-  Tin-  San«lunli  - 
L*nT»nti  — May  U,'.,  I».*i3— <'ircuiuri»i<i«»  —  A|>|minuKv  of  Cnuiitry .r>i 

CHAPTER    IV. 
MVK  \VI:I:K.-  WITH  M:KI:I.I:TT. 

Arrival  at  I.iny.nnti  M.ik. .]..!••  TJn-ir  I'.'li.'v  W.  !,-.,in.-  i»  l.ivinwt-'iw— 
>•'*.••!••!  i  \fr>.ui  l("»|i-t:t!iiy  Mn-tiiodiiviiiif'i  liilli.ully  I.i\  iiu'-intu1 
T- <>'.•-,  t..  Tr.'.d.-  M:-  l..ilH.r.  M.ik..l..L.  ld,-.t»..|  |t.;uiiy  \!;!n!iin->s 

.T'l.V.'^        l.!V  :!!.•«•    .!..•'«.  I..  'lr-|.\     I',  thr    |::ir>-t»i-       'II.-     S.   ll    uli.tU'    till '(    h..Kf 

P.-     1'ir  l:...|.M  ,-,-k.  !.-'.u    l-.\.s    {..!].,-      Jlnts    aiid    II. il-      The 

F-r.JIuf.yr        \!i;|,,  ^N^-.ut  K:.l..n.M       Ti..    >|.:.-l,d:-l   l:i\,-r       Th.-  M..ka!.lkn 

D.r  i  ..t.tr.i.t     i  .itt!'-  :ui  t    \\.ir      l:.i|.,.U     »  .it.ir.i.-i<      I  :11N      \..    \(.,|iii- 
UK-rif  1:1    \(r.-\      Th.    li.ir  ••  -•  V.ill.  v       1.  rl:!!lv       M,.in:d^       I 'in,  I -hln.  n! 
Wxr    \\.f.d      'I!,.-   F.r-t    Whi!.-   M.in      T, .  lh.-  I..-,  K.i      N.,  I'l..,-,    |,,r  a  M  i«- 

•  .  n      'Hi--  \\  iid«-«t  ..f  all      l.im  .did  ii/.iri      I'.T  l.".iti'l"      S.-ri'-u-  Tin<ii^li!« 

K<  >  .  Oiit.M  !'..r  -l..'irn.-y  \..\.  rn)~  r  1  1  th.  1  «'.T  K-.-ap.-  fr-.m  an 
K>j-i.4i.t  lli<  lli|.(--|...taiuu»  Arrival  at  S«->hi-kc  7-1 

CHAPTER    V. 


Mi--!. -nary  W.  rk      Wanting  in  H.diiri..ii»  Id<  :u 
•   ••'   vl  ••••  Ih.-    l....v,il.-..       ll.|.|,.|..,laini      Mr.  <  tin.inii.i;1. 

<    II-  i    -f    I. .'...,•      An. I. -.--. i,      I.;,.,,    r.,i,f.iv,-d 

:.-.!•!.  ..MI.    \rw«       I.r,  i:i.'v(,,t,r\   \Vi«.-   Plan       l.ilH.nta 

M..    «   ;..,:,,.      I  ,.  .;.   a:.d    l.i-.n.div    W..rk       I  l.ilu.nnTy  ..f 

l>          1      I    :    ••.'.!     f,  I|r.,..,.      I  ;r.!     A.-t     in     P..i!-.i.d.i      II;.- 

l!'i!!.i:..  Hui,!      P.-ill,!..andti.r.-.-  I  LI.-      M.u.,t..,n 

T.-«        ••!     .-!..,.(.-      I  .,-l.i.- f    Ank!.     \\-.,,;--      A 

•    I"--       I  •  .-r.    I'.  ,;:,.    Huiu'.-r       i>.,rk     I      r.  >t. 
:  >   •      M-    !>•  ,n.    (   h.iriu-       \   S.ddirr      l!ii!..ndn   !'.i-h- 
!  JJ.il    •    !il.;  !y      I',,!..,,. I,  (..-uti.-nin,      Mr.id-drr« 
«•-«•-!-      t.,      MA;.-  -A  ,\    K   :.!,..•„   .'. 


CONTENTS.  7 

CHAPTER    VI. 

TIIKOUWI    LONDA. 

Reception  at  Shinte's  Town— The  Introduction— Private  Intprvicw*— Eti- 
quette of  the  Balonda — Love  for  Mother*— Slavery — Theft— Magic  Lantern 
—  Rains — Iron-works — Flooded  Plains — A  Charming  Home — Death  and 
Desolate  Villages — Balonda  Ideas  of  11  Future  State — What  to  Preach  to 
Heathen — Troublesome  Guide— Burial  <>f  the  Dead — Marxians— Sioux  — 
Patagouians — Bechuanas — Halonda— Sunday  with  Quendende — Heautil'ul 
Country — The  Lotembwa — Katema — Reception — Provisions  Presented — 
Wisdom  of  Katema — (,'attle — Birds  in  Cages— Birds  and  Beasts— Birds  and 
Spiders — Human  Spiders — Fevers  Again —  Xot  much  Impression — Hero- 
ism of  Livingstone— Lake  Pilolo— Rivers  Run  Northward— Mambari  Trad- 
ers— Influence  on  Border  Tribes— Demands  of  Pay  for  Passing  Through 
Country — Expected  to  Fight — An  Ox  Given — A  Man  Demanded— Sickness 
of  Livingstone — Mutiny  in  his  Camp — Its  Cure — Men  Repent — The 
Quango  at  Last — Bashange's  Tax — Cypriano  di  Abrue's  Kindness — Portu- 
guese Possessions — Sweet  Sleep — Angels H>7 


CHAPTER   VII. 


Anxiety — A  Single  Englishman — Sickness — Mr. Gabriel's  Kindness — Settle- 
ment of  Loanda — Portuguese  Failure — Two  Things  Unfortunate — Mako- 
lolo  at  Work — The  Ship"  a  Town  " — Livingstone's  Relapse — Long  Illness 
— What  Might  have  Been — Slave  Trade — Slavery  in  Africa — Grounds  of 
Livingstone's  Opposition — Negligent  Cultivation  of  the  Soil — Two  Shil- 
lings ti  Month — Fetich  Worship — Portuguese  Policy — Ivory  Trade — Fn- 
paid  Labor — Mania  for  Litigation—"  Big  Funerals  " — The  Poison  Ordeal 
— Wild  Animals — Tfie  Self-denial — Looking  Eastward — Departure  from 
Loanda — Makololo  Boastings — The  "True  Ancients" — A  Remarkable 
Insect — Ambaca— Church  or  Jail — Catholic  Mistake — Pnngo  Andongo — 
On  the  Road — Difficulties  of  Ox-Riding — Traders — Beeswax  and  Elephant 
Tusks — Liliputian  Monster — Descending  from  "Tola  Mungongo  " — Cas- 
suuge — Drunkenness — The  Quango  Again IL'»; 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

LOXDA    OR    LINDA. 

Lessons  of  Experience — Sansawe's  Demands — His  Refusal — A  Blow  on  the 
Beard — Revenge — Changing  the  Tune — Dandies  and  Belles — Lizards  and 
Snakes— Seven  Thousand  Fowls  for  Ten  Dollars — Many  Village  Mania — 
The  Seasons — Sister  of  Matiamoo — An  O.x  or  a  Man — Strategy — Trial  for 
Murder— Street  Fight— Dish  of  White  Ants— Lovely  Red  of  Flowers— God 
in  Nature — A  Noble  Chief— Shinte's  Again — The  Leeba  —  Lite  Oneo  More 
— Buflalo  Hunt — Libontrf  "Welcome — Thanksgiving  Service — A  Matrimo- 
nial Drawback — Capsized  in  the  Lecamhye — Sckeletu  in  Full  Dress — The 
True  Ancients  in  White — Promising  Opening — Preparation  for  the  Jour- 
ney— Going  Eastward — Parting  Words  of  Manure — The  Tribute  of  Faith- 
fulness  


CONTEXTS. 

CHAPTER    IX. 

TIIK    NEW    EXPEDITION. 

'n  Kin<lnr-M — Kxplanation  of  it  —  1'rovideno*  in  his  Work --Novem- 
ber 3,  lsY> — TerriMe  St«>rm — Two  Hundred  Men  in  Line — The  Niagara  of 
Afrir*-- Virt.iria  Fall»— Itainhow  and  Mujirrstitioa— The  liatoka-  A  Net- 
work of  Ilivep»---The  K.\|>liuialion~  'l'r.i>iiiii>n« — Tin-  Fir»t  White  Man — 
!tat<>ka  <  'hief*—  !>at»ka  UcbvU— The  KaMerti  Kitlgv— LonjfinR  I"1""  l^»«iet — 
Uat'ika  ti»'i»en»Mty  —  A  Uvrrpliuii— Livingstone'*  Touru^e  Power  of  the 
(ji»l*-l  -  A«r  ••!  U'hiu-  Mi-ii  -An  Incident  — Mimionary  Inllueurp—  Ani- 
maU  -  Ilu&tio  Uird  -  l:hitn>oiT<>tt  Hinl— SoMirr  Ant>-  While  AnU— An 
K!«-j'h.int  Hunt  !.;•  I'li.u.;'-  <  h.ir.u-:i-r  Iniiian  auii  African  C'utupared — 
l»uwn  the  l>'!>it«-  ItiS 

CHAPTER    X. 


Th.-  Kafuf-  I."iii:ii.-  f..r  Pt-.ii-.--  Xt-irrn  \Vnr-hi|«  -Foreign  Co<«N-  Harl'isa 
Trad.  M  J  :\  ••  Man/.  «  <  ••  -..!...-i.-.il  !'•  .itur---  H.-.illli  ..(  I.i\  iii--!..ne  The 
7ai!it»-M  a.-.i.i.  !.'•  |'l.. in! •Hunting  >ull.  r;nr'  fr.'iii  II.  :;l  Tin'  Native 
rt-.-uli.iri!:  -tn-v  ..f  It.-f.iriii.-l  r.-r-on,  <  Miitintied  rH.-iidlin.-««~- 

|V  n-e  itii-l  Ki-.dii--"      I'..rtii^:ji----  l.iit<-r|.ri.«-      >ilii.ili>.n  ••!  /.uinli..      Al'tin- 
(l«n<-e  ..f  ti.nu.-      W..IP|.  rful  l.ilH-r.tlity      Pain-in.'  1'i-r  (  .TII      l.ix  iiur-t.ine'* 

h..rn.l      A-  T'.«.  iln-  /  ifiU  »i      >:ind  liivi-r     <  iaine  Law  *      KI<-\  ati  d  lluu  — 

1! ;.  •  :.  i  ,S'<-ur,'i---«  »vi-rl|.iw  nf  the  /..unl"  -»i      A|i|irt-fiation  of  » iiU>. |  ss 

CHAPTER    XI 
<  IIH  1 1\  \    i<>  TI.TI:. 

I>i-tri.  t  --f  i  hi- -..%.!      A.-rii-ulmr.-     <i.ui,.-    I.:i\v.      Itanyai  I'r:iy«-rs      M:ik<il<.lo 
I  :i:'h       III"  •  !  LJ!.-       !:.rd»      Thi-ir  S.iii.'-       >.j'lir!i|       (  ie.  .'...'ii  -a|   I  YatlirrH 
<irA|«'-.      I'l'iin*       \;iini:il   !..!"••      >;i|-  r-'iti-m  ali-.Mt  I.i"ii.      Tin-  K"r«.-      A 
M--M    ![•*,•!      II    Ij.fnl    I'.i.-i*      L..V.  ri.in.  MI    ..f   (In-  l:.,:i>ai      S.-le.-iini; 
«   i,..-|.       M     :.  :....l       1   l.'iit    Ti.r,-:i!.-n.-d       Sltdd. -I,     P.'r:tl.-,'Il,.-|lt 

«     r  \  I, mil  "       \i.  •  >r  1...1      W.ni.rin's    Ki.-l.ts     Tin- 

N-.  ir.   I.i-,        I-      •  ..f     W..in:ili      <. I     ll'l-i  ..Hi-.     |:.id     lliir.l.-rs      Tlir 

l:'..:.-.r..      \i.  I       -.-.,•',      A  •! .  ••iitur-     T.-rrild-     1 .1..  -.  "iiit.  -r      Khiii...-.-r..i 
\:.       .,-!'..•-  ..-•  <    \\. .fd.-d       V.-arnu-  T.-t,-      l.iv  iM.--!..in-  I -.iiia--iuled 

J.    "•   M. .'.\        \    l:.!n.  -j-.-.-t       \    I'r  • .),..;       N..I.1.     I'.rtiin-       Ur.v.il 

if    \|.  .«.      .-.  r.      •      \        /..I      llr.  -al.  l.i.l       k. •. •.•(,!;. m     Ml     T.-l.-       The    >..iin-e    of 

t;..-  /.uu»!«  ••;  I  IIKI.  ..M,      I  i,.-  V .line  i. f  iln-  p, .,-..%-.  ry .'"" 

CHAr'TE  R     XII. 


i!.!*  I  ,..!•!  U  .  i,:,,/-  >l.iv,-  Tra.l.'.  l^il  I'.t- 
•M.  •  !'•.»•!  -ii|-.  r-hl|..iii  «.|"  '!••(<•  1  n/h-ll 
,  .1  I  <  ...I  \  it|in-,.fl...l.|  I'n  I  \|,|..  .it.ti,---' 
v,ilin  •  !),.•  >..il  At.-ri.  ull'ir.  N.vlr.-l..l  II. -t 

•  •  l.i..''..  •l.:ii«-ii      '   4Uie  n|  l'«utu,,Ml*«c  1  iillure 


CONTENTS. 

Leave*  T«-tp  -Nynndf1*  Stockade— The  Gorgp  of  Lnpntn— Senna— The 
Ijindeens  or  Zulus — Misery  of  SemM--Surroimding  Country— The  Shire 
—  KiliiiiuiR'  —  Livingstone's  Object — HIM  Theory  of  Minion  Work—  Hit 
IIo|ie.H  for  Africa — Arrival  of  tin-  "  Frolic" — Disposition  of  Ivory— Parts 
with  his  Followers — Sckwehu — In  the  Boats— On  Hounl  the  Ship— Insanity 
and  Death  of  Sekwebu — Arrival  at  Mauritius — l)t:ar  Old  England— For- 
bidden  Scenes— Public  Honors— Tin:  Single  Desire 2-'J 

CHAPTER    XIII. 

AT    HOME. 

Meeting  on  January  ,r)th — Egyptian  Hall— Splendid  Assembly— Speech  of 
Ix>rd  Mayor — Speech  of  Hishop  of  London — Speech  of  Sir  Roderick  Mur- 
chison — Livingstone's  Response — Resolutions — Subscription— Travel*  in 
England — Public  Enthusiasm  —  Public.  Meeting  in  Manchester — Rc*olu- 
tions — Pul)lic  Meeting  at  Leeds — Addresses  and  Resolutions — Generous 
Rivalry  of  Cities  an<l  Institutions — Presentation  of  the  Freedom  of  London 
to  Livingstone — Distinguished  Personages — Complimentary  Addrc-^i--, — 
Tremendous  Applause — A  Beautiful  Casket — Imposing  Ceremony — Rook- 
Writing — Difficulties— Surprised  by  the  Appearance  of  a  IJoirus  Book  — 
Explanation —  Announcement  of  Dr.  Livingstone's  Book — Twentieth  Thou- 
sand in  Six  Weeks — Press  Comments — Extract  from  the  Ltunlon  Limltr 
of  that  Date — Effects  of  the  Book — Interest  in  Commercial  Prospects  of 
Africa — Interest  in  Missions — Action  of  Missionary  Societies — invitations 
to  Oxford  and  Cambridge — Grand  Assembly  at  Cambridge — The  Reception 
of  Livingstone,  According  to  Professor  Sedgwick — Reception  of  War 
Veterans — Of  Chancellors — Of  the  Queen — None  More  Hearty  than  that 
of  Livingstone 23  ^ 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

LECTURE    BEFORE    CAMBRIDGE    UNIVERSITY. 

[Delivered  before  the  University  of  Cambridge,  in  the  Senate-House,  on 
Friday,  December  -4,  1S.">".  Dr.  Philpott,  Master  of  St.  Catharine'*  Col- 
lege, Vice-Chancellor,  in  the  chair.  The  building  was  crowded  to  excels 
with  all  ranks  of  the  University  and  their  friend*.  The  reception  wa>  -o 
enthusiastic  that  literally  there  were  volley  after  volley  of  cheer*' LM3 


CHAPTER    XV. 

ACJAIN'    IN    ATKICA. 

Results  of  Efforts  at  Universities— Universities  Mi-sion  — Livingstone  Ap- 
pointed British  Consul — Interview  with  the  Queen— Reasons  for  Accept- 
ing the  Governmental  Appointment— Love  tor  hi*  Mother — Cart'  of  her — 
Government  Appropriation— The  Farewell  Banquet— Distinguished  A- 

sembly — Speeches — Sir     Roderick     Murchison— Livingstone's    Add  re. 

Arranurcmcnts  Completed  —  Members  of  the  Expedition  — The  >tcam 
Launch — '!  he  "Pearl" — The  Departure  from  England— Livingstone's 
Responsibility — What  the  Government  Expected — Letters  by  the  Way  — 
Arrival  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Zambesi 


JO  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    XVI. 

AKKIVAI.    AT    TKTK. 

anJ  the-  Ziunbtti—  Posterity's  ApplauM—  The  Explanation  of  the 
Th»-  K'i«,'oiie—  Tin-  Bur  —  The  Country  —  Tiiniilitr  «>l"  Natives- 
Tin-  IVrtility  «f  Soil  —  Tl:<-  Native'  Curiosity  —  Tlu-ir  <  'ii|>iility  —Tin-  Chan- 
tirl  —  Thr  Ivparturt-  nf  thr  "  iVsrl  "  —  The  Kir»t  Work  -Mu/Jtrn  —  Kxcite- 
nirt»t  -  Livmij-.t.  >!!«•'»  ('ourajfr  —  Mariano'*  Cruelly—  TlivZului  -ThrirTax 

—  Th«-ir  (  'linrai-ti-r,  H'«]>itality.«-U-.  -/ulu  l-aMV.-r     Sluipaiu'.i     Thfliruve 
t'wti-r  thr  Ha"t«a>>  —  H«i'«-|'ti"ti  at  St-ima—  Svnhor  Ferraro—  Arrival  at  Teta 

—  "  We  will  Slct-p  Tu-UHjul."  ...............................................................    •.-• 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

TIIK    KKHl'.AllA.^A    KAI'IDS. 

Thr  jMurnpy  t'>  th*>  KehrmlitiMi—  KetirnlxLsa  ItntiL;»-  (ii-tu-ral  A|i|x'ar:unx>  — 
Itrea'llh  -I'rf^«uri-  »f  Watt-r  --  I'i>rtu^«u-«x'  l^nnrum  i-  iJ.iiiy.u  lni|~i»:iiMii> 

—  "  I>rt-*'lful   Koti^ii  "  Ni^'ht     Cani|i  Sr.-ti.--.     A   C:ini|i  >l»ry      I'in-  M-TII- 
ini;     t  'liinl'iii^    Still   -Slct-ji    of    Kili:ui<iti<>li      Makoltilo    Pclriist    Mount 
M»ruti>i>w.i  -A    lVr|H-tti.il     ll.irrivr     Kcturn    t->    Tctu     >VIMJI^    HI     Trlf  — 
Su|KT«t:ti"M     Tin-  T<'a«-hiin»  of  Nsitun-     H-ilim-Ks     (  'hri-ini.ix  in  .  \frira  — 
Tin-  ('limax  <>f  Al'»unlitir»     Tin-  Kniny  SI-;UMUI     The  I'urtuijui'w  KIVOUPW* 
—A  ,S:riou»  Matter—  The  H«  1|.  f.r  1'i-vcr-  Tin-  Shin-.  ............................  •>( 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 
Tin:  SMIKI:. 

M"uth  (.f  (h<-  Shiro—  I)iffioultii-s  Vaiii»h—"  Kiu;li»hiMfln  "—Shire  Valli-y— 
Afri-MH  Swani|>  I.ivitu"<t"in-'H  Art  Mount  Mornnil'iil.i  Moiintain  \  il- 
lii^'--  (hik.ui'li  '!"•.  Python,  I'lir-u.-.l  l.y  :i  IIull.il..  'I'll.-  <r.-.mi.  r  A 
>iiikui»'  Shiji  No  N'oti-  of  Tiiin-  "I'll'-  MIU-I.  i;in  —  lli|i|Hi].-.t.iinMs  I  ra;iH  - 
si.iri-  M,ir«ti«-i  \S.it.  r  (".»!  Kit.-t  nn<l  Vultun-s  l'or.->i  ..!  I'iilm  Tprs  - 
!.|;t:..l«  -.f  ([,,-  Slur-  An  I'lihappy  Oil.  I"  Villn^,-  .,|  (  'tnl.i-a  (  lul.i-a  - 
-  l.;ik.*  >liirw  :«  Syinji.ithy  of  I'-niN  I  hsrovi-rv  of  l.akr  Shirwa  Ill-turn 
t-.  it..-  >hi|.  r.\|"--l;ti..!i  t,,  |.:ikc  Nvii-Mi  -Maiiu'nnjii  Hill-  \  ill.i-.'  of 
(  ii...uit>.i  Tiit-  M.ui/.uij.i  1'.  -o|iU-  Agriculture  <'otton  Maiiutacturi-H  — 
Ir.'n'ir.-  Nutivr  Tra-l<-  Tin-  I'p|nT  I.iji  Hint;  Ik-or  I>rink  iin;  I'nuiki-ii 
Villa^'r*—  The  Muavt-  A^ain  Faith  Xra**a  I)«coviTt«l  —  Ill-turn  to  Ti-te..  >i 

CHAPTER    XIX. 


i>,r»r.l  for  '  >Mi."iti"ti«     Hu»y  1'rcj.aration"     Market  I'rir.-.  nf  T"lr-  SinuiJ- 

;  ir  MI  i»iirr,     •".-JalTnrn      ]  ,\  .-n  iiu'  '  i:itln-rini."t      l'«  uliar  "  'I  i-.i  I'.trt..  ^  " 

M  \K  .1  .!•,    '»(.;..,  (.,,,,,    f    L.-avin/    1-  !'•     Tli.-ir    <,.iin-.   anil    l.os.,  ,       I  h- 

i'.;!!.!      .(..urn.  •,  •  |:.  .-  n,      I.H^.II.':      <,!;.I.'n      T)1(.    Missi,.n      <iniv---      !.»• 

.  .  f  I    i.  I  ,•..-,  .-.t.  .,..'.  I  ...,!i.  !...,•,        II,,,,,.  rr.-hak.-i.      M.iko- 

•     l.i.tl.:"i:  •     i,-  •••«.!./    I'.-.ill.  .  lion      Sr.mar-l    A/  nn 

'"*•        If|     K    •!.•  -!.•        IK-     'P.«'ii««T       .  \rrir.  •»      Tin-    It-iviiinn      I;«-(urii    to 

'!•    -f.  rw     'II,.-    "  ri,ivr«.ty\    Mi>.«i"ii  "     Tluir    Mi-.forl'im-»     \\  nr   1'r.-. 

•».!.:..•      '\\,<     "t:\\-<     Ir  i  !•        l,:iV.«-    NT^'.MI      Thr    I.nkc    Tritx'^      Sliii|THifH 

!'•  ,-:,    <.{   Mr.    J.:  vi  :.„".!,  nr  .      .1;  i 


CONTENTS.  1 1 

CHAPTER    XX. 

THE    BEGINNING   OF   THE    END. 

Zambesi  Expedition  Unsatisfactory— Zanzibar— Trade  from  Zanzibar— The 
Outfit — Kovunia  Bay— Kinduny— The  Makonde— Remarkable  V citation 
— Cutting'  Right  Valiantly — Rage  for  Doctor-ship— Mohammedan  Influence 
— Lying  Guides — Along  the  Hovunia — Troubles  with  Followers — (jum- 
C'optil  Tree— Extravagant  Tattooing — Top  of  the  Fashion— At  Nyomano — 
The  Slave-Trade— The  Ma^oa— A  Woman  Rescued  —  Horrors  of  the  Trade 
in  Slaves — Currency  for  Africa— Extracts  from  Journal — A  Deserted 
Village— A  Model  Town  of  Africa 345 

CHAPTER    XXI. 

APPROACHING    NYAS8A. 

A  Guest  of  Matnka— The  Waiyau— Livingstone  and  the  Arabs— The  Town 
of  Moeuihe — Iron  Smelting— Causes  of  Desolation — Waiyau  Described — 
Livingstone's  Desires — Slave-Trade  :  Does  it  Pay  ? — Sepov«  sent  back— 
Mountains — Springs — Iron — Approaching  Nyassa — Livingstone's  Review 
of  his  Route — The  Watershed— Geological  Formations — Kindness  of  the 
People — The  Single  Curse — An  Example  of  Christians — Inconvenience  of 
being  English— Arabs  as  Settlers — A  Doubtful  Question  Settled — Pota 
Mimba — Around  the  Foot  of  the  Lake — No  Earthquake  Known— Sites  of 
Old  Villages — Brooks — The  First  European  Seen — "God  Took  Him" — 
Wikatani  Finds  Relatives — Salt-Making — Eighty-five  Slaves  in  a  Pen — 
Work  Honorable 372 

CHAPTER    XXII. 

ABOUT    NYASSA. 

Geological  Notes— The  Marenga — Livingstone  Preaching — Pmall-Pox— In- 
veterate Thieve-: — Kirk's  Range—  Love  Token — Black-haired  Sheep — 
Earthquakes — A  Toper  Chief— A  Royal  Escort — Whoopimr-Cough — The 
Hottest  Month — Methods  of  Fertilization— No  Animals — Hows  and  Ar- 
rows—  Lip-Rinir — A  Prophetic  Cow — Iron  Works — Village  of  Smiths — 
Alarm  of  Mazitu — Native  Furnaces — Livingstone's  Patience — A  Disagree- 
able Head  Man— Level  Country— Portuguese  Travellers— A  Herd  of  I'.nf- 
faloes— Industry — Wild  Figs— A  Formidable  Stockade — Trying  News — 
A  Steady  Faith 391 

CHAPTER    XXIII. 

A    MONTH    OF    WANT. 

Days  of  Anxiety — Manganja  Blood — Manganja  and  Waiyau — Artisans — N> 
live  Agriculture— Beautiful  Scenery— Iron  Trade— An  Elephant  Hunter 
—  Difficulties — Carriers — Livingstone's  Love  for  Nature — Memories — No 
Food— A  Splendid  Valley  of  Lilies — Stockades — Sunday  at  /eon- — Rain- 
Making— The  Slave  Idea  in  East  Africa— Hedges  of  Bamboo-  Bark  Cl.'th 
— Huts  for  the  Spirits  of  the  Dead — Contrast.";  in  Character — Forests  and 
Rains — Beautiful  Animals— The  Zebra  very  Beautiful — The  Loanirwa — 
Bad  for  Worse— The  Babisa— A  Miserable  Set— Sorrows  Multiplied — A 


12  CXJNTE.VT8. 

M'ipan.:-  F«rt*«t—  Nyarniaii—  T ratling  with  n  Woman  —  I****  of  <ioat*—  Ei- 
jwrrn-iu-r  with  a  tiunle  — The  Hills  Ai;aui-  IU-»-  Hunters— Want,  Want, 
Want '  —  N'.'Mr  I  tU-nun-«-»— "  Always  Hungry  "  l.l<-j>h.iiit  Hunting — 

fitcvr-J     //:.'»!  \»y  -Pvwlalf     IjUiil    -No     Iln-.i.l       Hunger      I.M-.IJK-     fnuu     a 

««hn  Tti.-  !.•.«-•  of  the  Pog  Mu^»r.*.m»  All  thr  .Ur,/,,,,,<  /....«*  -The 
W.-r-t  "!"  All  l.ivin^'tiim-'-*  (triiilciic.-ut  --"  U«-ttl  Hiliiii;  Hunger'  -Hi-ail* 
M  t  urrrijcy  --The  l'huiul>e»v  at  l-a*t .-  4ri> 

CHAPTER    XXIV. 

KP.DM    I.AKi:    T<>    1.AKI1 

(*hit.i|..\r,/ t'«  St-H-kailf  — An  oflVrin^'  Itequirvd  — Auilirarr  with  tli«-  (  lu.-f— 
«  ••r«-'.i"!.x  »t  Intrixltirtion  «  hitajiun^ii  n»  !»•  «:i->  ><mn'  I  in.i^I.-  I.\  nij; 
Iui>  rj-r.  r.  r»  Ar.i»>  Tra«li-n»— I^-ttern  S«-nt  Hmix-  —  t^uiis  «  liit.i|..uu'.i '•< 
1  In-  (  h.- 1 '  •*  1'nrdin;  <  httlj—ApiK-arinuM- of  Country — Troul>li-M>uu- <  u-ioins 
— >!i'jK.  :-'ii  ni"  tin-  (  lu.-f — A  r'.uuiliiir  'I  ru'k  — l«i^i-ru<  ~>  ii.r  1  r.i«ir  - 
M... uni. A  .1!  II ..mi-  •<  "hirf  an. I  .Jii«i-i-  Tin-  M.M-uil.a  The  II  .|...  Ii,,ws 

aii-1    ATP-*  »-///)«/*» -Ka«oii«M»'»    K« ptimi      A  ««.iult«<l  l.y   Am-     ( '••!!. m 

-  I.VN.  I.i-int..i  J'alin  <>il  Tin-  H.ihnu'u  S,  v-n-  Him—  Arul-  - 
rinti!iil..i  -  \ill.i-r  A  I.-MI-  I)t-lay  N-.inia  I  ii«-  Itaulim^n  liu'n-lrii •«. 

<  'i].;..;i  •      <  li  inn-      Pull     I.it'v      Slavr-Tr.i-l.-      l.ittli-     Iliiu-i.      A     I..ir.-.- 
Sj'i'l-  r     -Ar   ll.ir.i      Krrrjitiuli  at  N*aiim'«  — A  Itri'lr  in  Stylr      "  I'iix-  Ti|x.  " 

"  K'im!i.i     Kuuiti.i"      It-nr-i      pc-i-rli-'ii     Sl.ivi-ry    (^iir-tinii      Piili-n-ut 
\r.  ili-,..  u  th<-  Mnn-li      Aral.  Tr.nl.-r-      A  r:inta-tic  I'arl.v   -  I'oli  my 
i.f  >!,.    --   iu  Africa- -P.-lay-.-  Ijikt-  M.^-m  at  IJIM 4M 

CHAPTER    XXV. 
A   MMNMI   \viiii  CA-I:MJ;J:. 

M  -r  .      I',     r.  !    f.,r  <•;,.,„,)„.      Kai. „,-•-!      Al.iin.lan.-.-  ,,f  H-h      I»r.  I.a.-,-r.!a 

In-      M.il  .ii'l.i      linr.-r     <  .i-.-n.l..  •"-    Vill.i-.-     ( tr.i.  i-ai-ly     K-  ••  ••  ,\  i-l      \|..- 

N..I.-S    |>. .in   .(..inn.il      /..in.   Kin.-'-    i'.'.l      "  I  a -i  nil"-." 

li   -  '   II.II.I.-I.T     I  >i-t<. m>      I. .in. I  (   l.uin-      H.iM'i  ^h  ikin,-      I..II.T 

i    '   lir-ft'lui      p....-ri|>t;vi-     ][•  -uiti.       Sirkii'--.      I..  a\.--    <  us,  niKr    - 

N|..i:  l!ll.».|     l,i:i    S.ll.-h    hi-   (    .,!|||,.l!li..!l        Hlll,,-.T        Hilled 

.11 

CHAPTER    XXVI. 


•..    In.lifT.-r.-i..-.-     i  harms  ,,f    M.,,r..     I.ak,-  Son.rv- 

<  .,\..t.,uiii.  ^H  -'I  I,.    <  >,,U    I  .....  ,,    |  .  irll,.|      K.il- 

M  if.  i.      I  •.  .!•  .1   1.,-iiu-  with    \t.,i.       l.nin-.  t..  in-'.  In- 

\  i'.  .  i  11  ili    i..  -•..-  i>.  :  ,-.     ^  .u,  k..  -  ..  i  \ii..;i 

"'•>'l       I  '•     •  •:  1  1  •:.  ••'.     1  ••;;•«•:     -  I  ;•.  u.  .••  !..IH  '»  I    L.ir.ly 


.  ,   ./ 


CONTENTS.  13 

K  i nd ness— Mohamad  Bogharib— Hurting  for  Lake  Bemba— Discovery  of 
the  (ircat  Lake—  Description  of  it — Luke  Surrounding— Wanyamwp/.i  — 
Northward  Again  —  Commotion* — Wur —  Delay* — Keach  Kubwabwnti  — 
Abominations  of  Slave-Trade— Battle— Evil*  in  Camp — Wanyamwezi 
Women  During  a  Buttlt — Wearinea»— Chru»Uua«,  January  31st,  lbo'8 476 

CHAPTER    XXVII. 

UJIJI. 

Severe  Illness — Thoughts  and  Memories — Some  Good  in  All — Mohamad  Bog- 
harib's  Kindness — Dr.  Livingstone  too  111  to  Walk — Sufferings  in  b«-insr 
Carried— Arrival  at  I'jiji— Hardships  Endured— Disap|>ointnient—<  ioods 
Stolen— I'jiji— Products  of  the  District— Market-Place— Wajiji's  Saluta- 
tions— 1  It-ad  Ornamentation — Formal  Introductions — Tattooing — A  Rcpr.-- 
sentative  Wajiji — Ornaments — Superstition — Superstitious  Custom*—  !>- 
fusal  to  Carry  Letters — A  Den  of  Thieves — Thani  bin  Sucllim — Manyuema 
Country  —  Religiously  Villanous? —  Hambarre —  Expert  Hunters—  The 
Cireat  Chief— The  Covenant  of  Peace — How  Arabs  keep  Covenants  — 
Mockery  of  Superstition — "  Liliputian  Monsters" — A  Pygmean  Battle — 
Amazed  at  (inns — Au  Elephant  Hunt — Unsatisfactory -P3 

CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

MANYUEMA. 

ilnnyucma  Country — The  Paramount  Chief — Independent  Villages — Living- 
stone's Object — Leaves  Hambarre  —  Westward — Splendid  Scenery  —  Vil- 
lages— Architecture  of  Manyuema — Character  of  the  People — Hidden 
Villages — Curiosity  of  Villagers — Evil  Intluenee  of  Traders — Prejudices 
Aroused — Return  to  Bambarre — I 'jiji  Hood-  -J-'ir/'  llumlrrd  dun.-' — Liv- 
ingstone's Companion — Sets  out  from  Bambarre  Second  Time — Appearance 
of  Country — Huts  in  Trees — Elephant  Traps — Bloody  Feuds — Omnipresent 
Love — Newly  Married  Couple — Dreadful  Swamps — Timely  Hospitality — 
Promise  of  Letter — Hindered  Again — Slave-Traders'  Barbarities — Dreadful 
Murders — Katoma's  Camp — Deserted  l>y  Followers — Three  only  Faithful 
—Singing  Frog — A  Nursing  Fish — Musicians — Livingstone's  Resolution  — 
Chumft,  Susi  and  Gardner — A  Man  Killed — Meets  Mohamad  Boirharib — 
A  New  Affliction — Disappointment — Return  to  Bambarre — Long  Sickness 
— Manyuema  Dreadful  Cannibals— Bloodthirsty — Deliirht  in  Murder — 
Thf  Sakn — Soko  Hunt — Soko  and  Leopard— Soko  and  Lion— "Soko  is  a 
Man'' — Impatience — Despondency — Hope  Revived — Men  and  Letter  Ar- 
rive from  Zanzibar — New  Difficulties — Trouble  with  New  Men — Another 
Start— Conscience  Clear — His  Plan — His  Longing — A  Young  Soko —On 
New  Ground  —  Charming  Scenery— Villaire  Happiness  —  Trials  —  The 
Lualaba  at  Last 508 

CHAPTER    XXIX. 

FOUR   MONTHS    AT    NYAN(i\VE. 

The  Lualaba — Abed  and  Hassani — The  Temper  of  the  Traders — Livingstone's 
Situation— The  Difficulty — Writing  Materials — Nyantrwe  Market- Wo  men 
— Old  and  Young — The  Market  Scenes — Eagerness  tor  Barter — Indepen- 
dence of  Women — Ten  Human  Skulls — Cannibalism — DilEeuhv  ui  L'et- 


14  CX)XTEXTS. 

tin*  a  C*noe— Ironr— Th«  Haku** — A  ('harart«Ti»tic  Manoeuvre — Baku  as* 
Opinion  of  f tun*  —  AruhV  Mm  of  Hu»iiu-v  —  A  Fiendish  Plot —  Du>;utiih« — 
X<>  A»i«uuiit?  —  Won.lerful  t'u<lertfn.un<l  House* —The  People  of  Hua — 
"  Hrarthn.kfnneMi " -Diiapjiointetl  t'tu-rly  Itvauliful  Picture  Hli^hted 

—  Drrailful  Slaughter     TKrtf  Humire<i  an<l  Forty  IVii.l  — SujHTwickedneM 
— T««>  Much  to  Iti-ar  ~li«-%olvr«l   to  Kcturn— Iiu|>ortuuitl  l>y  the  Natives— 
lKtcnnim-«l     Pr»vi.let}t-f  in  the  Disap|»>iiitiii«  :it      Providence  in  nil  Thinifs 

—  Preriou«   Ititfn-*tt     A    I>i"»j>au-h   -Jtuucs  (innl"t»   Ht-niu-tt,  Jr.-  Henry 
M.  SuuU-y  

CHAPTER    XXX. 

Till:    liF.MVKKANTK. 

Mr.  Stanlry  at  Ziinzilmr — St-Nvtiuir  F<>llowi-n»-  African  Currvnor — Cnrifwitjr 
l'w«ati'»ti<-'l  "S|»i'ki-'i  F'uithl'uli "  Umjanioyi*— The  Mriinn— The  I'Vun- 
tt'T  of  lUrl'iiriMii  Tin-  l(ul<H-h  Tin-  Wiuiiriiim  Tlu-  liulf-l  '»%!<•  Ar.il> — 
K.-<-.'p!i.iii  at  I!:i^aiii"V->  The  .le-tiit  Miwiion— Mr.  StJinlev'ti  IIniiM> — 
lir.-nt  !'r<-|«irnii"ti»  Mr.  Stanley  ami  others  The  Route  Selei-te<l  On  the 
M.ir.-h  Kir-t  Hunt  Tin-  Wakwere  The  Wui|oc--ltcniitifiil  Seen.-ry 
"  F.nvioiM  I'.vil  "  Thy  \Va.<u^uliha  HiiinUonn-  Savnire  The  Wairoiro  - 
I»e.tttian.l  Marrn-e  I'ensiltie*  of  Munler  mnl  Theft-  News  of  Dr.  I.ivinif- 
•tone-- A  Diflienlty-  Murler  AttempiBil-  I'roviilencc ,'>'«> 

CHAPTER    XXXI. 

I'NYANYKMIiE. 

Tr.vliiioii*  of  I  'nynnixre/i  Th««  A  j«|M-:iranee  of  the  ( 'oiinlry- The  Soil — 
"  F.ury  M'liitit^"  \  ill.i^i—  Tlie  Wiiiiyuinwczi  Sons  of  Hum  I.4.\ers  of 
M  'i.i.-  \I:n.|.n  F..II.IIP-S.  f..r  Display-  Te:i-l't\rties  Mtitroiily  <J..s«ip 
T!P-  <  i'il>- li'-'Mn  Maviiline  Vanity— Home  Lite  in  I'nyaniwe/i  ••  The 
H.IV.  1!,.-  l-'iirniture  Diniiu'  II. ill  "  Sweet  I'.arth  "  l'..piilnr  I'n-ju- 
ili.  .-1  F--I  "t  \\.un  :iuiwr/i  l.imilv  AfTeclioii — Woman'*  Mights  I.ove 
:Mrl  l.i-«  U" . in-.  ,iin\»f/i.  their  I'riiiniiieiiee  <  irrnt  Travellers  The  "  ( 'ar- 
r--r«  "  ..(  F!.iit  A  t"ri--:i  \  :ir%  iii^'  (  harm-ter  I  'nytinycinl>c  (  i  ntral  1'rovineo 
A  r.«'>  "••  -ttli-iii-Tit  Mr  >t:Mi!i'v'i  Keeejitinii  Sii\(l  hiii  Siilim  Stanley's 
II  .'i-e  M'linlie.-i.t  ll'.H|.i!.ility  Vi-itors  fr-.ni  T.,l>,,r;i  'l'.il»>r.i  Villnire  — 
A'I'.  I.murv  I'r.. iiiin. -tit  Ar.il.s  of  Tal...ra  Mr  Stanley  \'iMts  Tal»>rn 

"I  li>-    i  .•tui'  il    ,,f    \\'ar      \lirainlxi      An     I'nhappy     Alhanee      Siekness- 
I   iiM.ite  ..!    1   ny.uiyeirii>«-      I'll.-   P..i!tle  Array      Di-.i>t.  r  nn«l   lletn-at      <.la>l 
t-.'/'iit      T.il.N  >  Turn- -I      Th- "  1'lvini;  « 'arrivaii  "      A  \\ '•  •  |'iM-'  l."\  -T     <  »n 
r,.     M  ir"h    \cini       M:ui,',iri      lir.in.l    \'.<  ••  .  -pt  i.  .11  ..'"  (    li  i.  N       A.I"llyTlllie 
'I:.--     \  nun  ..n:.i    I'.-.ttl--   I   n...rk.-l       \n    I  iu|.res»|,,:i   \la-le      Spleii-liil  ( i.ime 
I'..           l»  .  Dr.  -    II  in:.:,.-      'I  r..uM.  -in  <  'amp      AUev.lt      A  Dns'llu!  I'iol 
-Tr. .•!•!.!...        \lr.ri  .',* 

CHAPTLR  xxxn. 

iiii    MI:I.II\'.. 

4ppr.v-h.ri.-    I    ,    h    'i-h.r      It,'   "pint     ..f    th.     M,,,,      "   \     (,,,,H|     Ife^rt"    - 
A  !.   |'.i.  v  •  f  i   l,r,.'i.u,    K.irli,.--        \l>i.-u   f-r   I'hriM      I  Ui.;i.  ^  ..f   M.  r,      A 
I  -.     -i    |r,      .!      M  .-  ,1 ...  -t.    M  it,      II, .     \n.l.ii>i-ii.|.-      \  Th;r.|    Deliver 
an-       \   i,. -I  "::,.,,       N,    V,:  ,...i.,,-.       The    |.e..p:,r.|      We.iry    nn-l    l:-lif 


CONTENTS.  j.-j 

ferent— Painful  Reflections—"  Little  Better  than  a  Skeleton  "—Dreadful 
Di-.i|i|"imiim-ni — The  Good  Samaritan—  Mr.  Stanley'*  Caravan  — "  That 
23d  Day  uf  October  " — G<xxl  News — A  Forced  March — The  Tanganyika 
at  Liwt — The  First  View  of  the  Luke — Special  Charms  for  Stanley — The 
Approach— "  Good- Morn  ing,  Sir" — "  \V'ho  the  Mischief  are  You?" — The 
Meeting — Tin,  Conversation — The  Revelation  Made — "God  Never  Failed 
Him  "—The  Best  Medicine — A  Cruise  on  the  Luke — No  Outlet  Found — 
N  I  Must  Finish  uiy  Task." ivi 

CHAPTER    XXXIII. 

A    JOURNEY    AND    A    DELAY. 

From  Ujiji  to  Unyanyembe — Livingstone  a  Companion  — Route  Adopted — 
Forest  Entertainment — Methods  of  Hunting — Makombwe  Hunting  Hip- 
|H)j)otumus— Baker's  Rhinoceros  Hunt  —  Wild  Rare — "A  Horse!  u  Horse!  " 
— Sword  wins  the  Day — Stanley  as  Hunter — Tent-Lite — Arrive  at  Kwihara 
— Home-Life — -Busy  Preparations — Livingstone  Abundantly  Provided  f<:r 
— Farewell  of  Wanyamwexi — A  Wild  Dance — The  Farewell  Song — The 
Parting— Bagamoyo  Again — The  English  Expedition — Oswald  Living- 
stone— Caravan  Sent  Back— The  Mission  Completed— England,  Living- 
stone, Stanley,  the  World — Comfort  in  Disappointment — Livingstone  in 
Unyanyembe — His  Occupation— His  Modesty — His  Zeal  for  Missions — 
The  Country  Inviting — A  Robinson  Crusoe  Life- -The  Mothers  of  the 
Country — The  Call  to  Missionaries — ''Advice  to  Missionaries" — "  No. Jug- 
glery or  Sleight-of-hand" — Livingstone's  Interest  General — Grasp  and 
Minuteness — Suspense  Ended — Stanley  in  England — The  (Queen's  Acknowl- 
edgment   iJni; 

CHAPTER    XXXIV. 

THE    LAST    JOUKNKY. 

Tke  Plans  of  Livingstone — Route  Proposed — The  March  Begun — Living- 
stone's CarefuHiess  of  Observation — A  Reliable  <  >b*vrver — Indifference  ot' 
Livingstone  to  Danger — A  Charmed  Lift — Better  judges — A  Midnight 
Encounter — The  Old  Disease — The  Shores  of  Tanganyika — Cotton  Culti- 
vated—Hunting a  Business — Ominous  Silence — Lake  Liemba — The  Slave 
Trade — Zoinbe — Beneficent  Disappointments — Donkeys  and  the  Tsetsi — 
The  Kalongosi — Nsama  and  Casembe — Flood  and  Flowers  —  Beautiful 
Emblems — A  Flooded  Country  —  Great  Hardships— Fording  Rivers — 
Livingstone  Carried  by  his  Men — Island  Villages — The  Last  Birthday — 
Resolution — Sufferings  and  Longings — Six  Feet  Rain-Fall! — Fishe — 
Sinking  Rapidly  —  Utterly  Exhausted — Kindness  of  Muanazuwumba — 'flu- 
Last  Written  Words — Carried  on  a  Kitanda— The  Last  Mile— The  Last 
Words— Death »,-J7 

CHAPTER    XXXV. 

BURIAL    AT    WESTMINSTER    ABBEY. 

The  Acknowledgment — Anxieties  of  the  Men — The  Council — Ohuma  and 
S-usi— Chitambo's  Kindness— Native  Honors  to  the  Dead  — Hut  where  the 
Body  was  Prepared — The  Materials  for  Preparing  the  Body— A  Special 


OONTKNTS. 

M->um?r— The  F.mbalmnvnt— Thr  Invripiiun---  Pn-parnti-m  f.-r  rVpartinft 
— I*r»mj»o»  of  t'hiumb"—  Kouir  of  li«tr«  S<-v.  rr  Trial-  Tin-  l.uii|>ula — 
Crowing  — An  Old  Servant  An  Arri>l«-ui  -N.iti»<-  Surj.-ry  \u  I'ufurtu- 
t»«:c  Affair  "--The  Fight  -  The  K«-%u!u -  Tin-  l,\<-n-<-  <  "•.;«•.•:. ..;>  t  .  t'latpi 
-- Th«  K.i!  •!!.:• -i  In  the  « >lfl  J'atli  Tli«-  l.a'-v  \.-vv  >.....-  Kuxier 
K.-iitr  t»  t'nyanrrinhe— The  NVw*  II«-»-«-ivr»!  lti-M>liiii<>ii  •  •!  iii--  Men — 
Ju«tiliahlr  I».-o-|.ti..n  A  I>n-a«llul  Su:ik>-  -  Arrsv.il  al  I1...  .  The 
Pri-.-iou*  Fn-ii:lit  Tin?  Kilwa  — lt«-<-«-|'ti<i:i  in  Lii^lani!  • -I<lr:iti!i.-.iii»n  •  - 
liuri.il 

CHAPTER     XXXVI. 

>i«<-niir.i;,'t  Illrnt.'.    -  !l«-<-i'Ilt     SUCI-«'«M-S     nf     Kxpl«rrp( — Hi'Vivill     i.f    l!ili-n-«t     - 

<  '»uii!ir!vi.il  IMI  jM.rt:>nii'  -  Familiar  Trw«  of  N<«rih  iitnl  Wf>i  A  IT  i.  :i  Tr. -|i- 
ic.il  Africa  <  ifinT.il  A  j>fH-:ir:ii»'t* — S«imli  African  FoFvul*  l.'iinUT  \.x- 
j-.rt»  Ilxri-llfri'-.- of  S..il  (  ..tt..n.  ( '..lli-c.  «•!<•.-  Mint-nil  !:«-s..in-<-i  -  <n.!<l 
MMU-.  «'..).|HT  .Miii.-  l>iani..ii.|  Fi.-M<  Tli.-  Ivory  Tr.i-lf  -<  ••nnm  rn-  ..f 
\V.-(t..:i-t  Th,-  Sl.iv,-  Tri.l,-  M:lk.i\  \V,,fk  Slav.-  Tr.i.l.  t-  (  '  -..-ilii-.l  - 
>!:iv.-.  r!a..ifi.-l  >..uri.»  ..fill.-  Tr.i.l.-  t  !:i-M!i.-,l  Total  Aiinua!  Tratlic  in 
^l.ivr»  Tli'-orif.  f-r  Siip|.n-.«i.-n  Tin- Tfii<lfiicy  of  Kvi-nl.-  N,.ianAh- 
*:r.i.-t  i^u.-ri..!!  >lav.-ry  ha«  li.i.l  it-  M  i-..i«m -•  Tin-  Nations  Ai::tin«t  It — 
1'n.vi  !• •:,.-.-  in  ll,-  l:.-v..l.iti..n  Tli.-  Nil.-  I'.ak.-r-  S|.,-k,-  l.ix  in-»toiie— 
\1.^:  :.«  Tli-  h'..rtu.-r  >u>-, •,--..,.(  i. -ncr.il  Inilii.-iK-f  -Tlie  l'r«i-.|Kvt 

CHARIER      XXXVII. 


!\   « '-rk:!!.'  "ill   I.i  \  in /"t  •!!•••'     ll. •••!.•-      ll.-lnrn   <>I    I.init.  ii.in!    I 'aiiirn>n, 
I:    \.   t-.    I  i,,-!.iii-i     i.ri.    I    ''..,:.-i.   .-.-..  n  I, -.in      A.-i-.-iii.t  ..(   i.i-    l\|...li- 

•.     Mn.'i        \|.-(.     I.i\Hl-tf-t-tli-'-     I'.  •-!>    -11    If   -:.•!    .1  .-urn.  -\     I  I    .,. ,.  w  ;»r,l« 

•  ,t-  .1!   !ii».  .-%.  rv  1. 1. 1' I.-  !•)   |.i>  -iti- ij. tut  »  .mi.  r- ii      <  iitti.  l  (..  |..ik<-    I'M  1 1. -a  n- 

1,^.1         V"..!,  K.    I   !,\    M-.-Ii:.-    lr!.'~^       \.iTt..*    I.-,:I|M         I',-,      -,.n.|    >\,ti-lll 

:    \\    t'-r   1   ..i.iiuiliii.  .ili'.ii       <  >|~ -:.    ii.-    M|,    t)n     I   ..ntilH  lit    It'M    I. .i^l   I.,   \\.--t 

\V.    .  Irrful    M   n.  r.»:   \\..t!tl>      «..       >!..(   lr..n    Vl.iii..l.int      luiui.     l'.\,-l- 

l-Ut'  i.:    ••!     \!n.  A  (ii<-  ".i!\     II- j-    t  .r   -i.|.|.r.  --MU'  .-l.n  •     Ii.i'l.-  GlH 

CHAPTER     XXXVill. 

fcli:    -\M'   I  I      l:\KI  i: '"     I  X  ri.lMTIi  iN. 
|-|.rr»'      .  -  (  -;.H.T;.      -(-ij-.  irl-  'i-  <  il.-'.i.      -  ..\.-ri--  iin-      Msrn|H- fruin  I'ni- 

-      I       «.  •    !  '!     !.        I':    ...\.Tlr,  of  \|      I, —  si 70; 

CHAr-TrR     XXXIX. 
Ill  M:^      \I-  -!:l    \  MI    .-  I  A  M.I  V. 

II..     U..rk!ak.-n    ll|.  I.V  Sljinl.-v       M.ft- 
.  •   '•    i.          I  i..  »   ^:.irt  ..ii  an  I'  \  (>•  -iitioii  t"^.  thrr 
\S  -.i  k       Th.-    Ilir.  •••    L;I.  .it   MN  -I.  n.-s..!' 
...|    l.v     >ir    S.tinu.  I    ll.iK.r       II,.- 
i    l-\     *l.n,!.-\        I'll.-    ti-..      I  .  tt.  r>    !,•• 
r.(    •-!    I'.innliiiH-ni  <•!   lli-    linnil.ir.  Ii- 
i  '.      i'  .   •     1    i  ••!     (  ..uiil..ira»Mr:i       II:-  I  i.t    I  .  I 

I'f  \     S.,i t    Milk    M.-.-r.      Cur  ih.-.-i  l.v 

I   \  II    i  l>.  !.  rm.n.'.l    t,.    |,r. --.-.-. I    (ill     Mi,»|.-n   t«    ar 


INTRODUCTION. 


Early  Civilization  in  Northern  Africa — The  Limit  of  the  Ancient  Civilization- 
Theatre  of  Mythology — Saracen  Conquest — Settlement  of  Soudan — Mohamme- 
dan Failure — The  Fifteenth  Century — (iilianez  Passed  (.'ape  Uojador— Portu- 
guese Kfibrts  on  the  West  Coast — Roman  Catholicism — The  Failure— F.nghvii'i 
and  France— Richard  Johson—  Mungo  Park — Denham  an<l  Clapperlon  — 
Richard  Lander  Dispels  the  Niger  Mystery — Kingdoms  on  the  West—  Da- 
homey, Ashantee,  etc. — The  Cape  Settlement — Vasco  de  Gama— The  Settle- 
ment of  Natal  by  the  Knglish — Lieutenant  Christopher — Abyssinia  ami  tl'o 
Nile— Bruce  and  Dr.  Beke— The  Nile  Mystery  as  it  Stands — The  UnLtiou-n-- 
Livingstone. 

IN  those  remote  ages,  when  the  Mesopotamia!!  plain  is  repre- 
sented in  Scripture  history  as  little  more  than  a  wide  and  open 
common,  the  northern  shores  of  Africa  sustained  a  powerful  and 
splendid  civilization.  "  When  Greece  was  under  the  tumultuary 
sway  of  a  number  of  petty  chieftains,  Homer  already  celebrates 
the  hundred  gates  of  Thebes  and  the  mighty  hosts  which  in 
warlike  array  issued  from  them  to  battle."  Before  the  faintest 
dawn  of  science  had  illumined  the  regions  of  Europe,  the  valley 

of  the  Nile  was  the  abode  of  learning  and  distinguished  for  its 

* 

incomparable  works  in  sculpture,  painting  and  architecture. 
"And  while  Egypt  was  thus  preeminent  in  knowledge!  and  art, 
Carthage  equally  excelled  in  commerce  and  in  the  wealth  pro- 
duced bv  it,  and  rose  to  a  degree  of  power  that  enabled  her  to 
hold  long  suspended  between  herself  and  Rome  the  scales  of 
universal  empire." 

Carthage  sunk  amid  a  blaze  of  glory  in  her  grand  struggle  with 
Rome,  toward  which  falling  kingdoms  of  all  later  time  have 
looked  with  envy.  And  the  land  of  the  Pharaohs,  whose  alter- 
nate splendor  and  slavery  had  been  the  admiration  and  astoni.-h- 
ment  of  the  au-es,  came  also  at  length  under  the  hand  of  the 
Cffisars.  The  fostering  republic  soon  rekindled  the  fires  which 
the  tide  of  war  had  extinguished,  and  Northern  Africa  was  still 
opulent  and  enlightened,  "boasting  its  sages,  its  saints,  its  head« 
2  17 


IS  AX(*IKXT    MYTHOLOGY. 

and  fathers  of  the  church,  and  exhibiting  Alexandria  and  Car- 
thage on  a  footing  with  the  greatest  cit'us  which  owned  the 
iiujwrial  sway." 

Hut  while  the  Itanks  of  the  Nile  and  the  -hore>  of  the  Medi- 
terranean were  conspicuous  in  ancient  civilization,  the  j tower 
and  gl"ry  did  not  {tenet rate  the  continent ;  there  wa*  only  a  nar- 
row -trip  of  liirht  fringing  the  sea  and  the  river,  back  of  it  there 
wa-  tin-  m\  -t.-rion-  and  the  unknown. 

The  traveller  who  ventured  into  that  background  found  him- 
self amoiiu'  wild  and  wandering  tril>es,  who  exhibited  human 
nature  under  it*  rudest  and  most  repulsive  forms.  I  f  he  journeyed 
far,  there  confronted  him  "a  barrier  vast  and  appalling — endless 
{•lain-  of  moving  -and,  wa-te  and  wild,  without  a  .-limb,  a  blade 
of  irra--,  a  -iirjle  cheering  or  life-sustaining  object.''  Victorious 
armif-  turned  !>a«-k  from  the  borders  of  the  desert  a-  the  limit 
of  tli«-  po-. :!,].•.  and  th«-  intervening  tract  of  alternate  rock  and 
vall'-v  and  plain  fnrni-hed  tnanv  of  tlu>-e  tabnlon-  sJories  which 
have  e,,nie  <  1 " \v ii  to  ti-  in  ela— !<•  niea-ure  and  Iteconic  :i  grand 
theatre  i it  a:ieii-nt  mvtliolnirv. 

Thither,  a«-«-ording  to  I)indnrus,  the  "ancient-  relcm-d  the 
earlv  r- i_'!i  ot'  Saturn  under  the  appellation  ot'  <  )iir.!!i'i-  or 
Heaven;  the  b-rth  of  .Inpiter  and  hi-  mir-isu:  bv  Amalfhrca; 
-  nee  nf  Titan- and  their  wars  with  the  i:«*U  ;  (  Vlielo. 
:_-•  l,,\-e  for  Atv-  an-1  frantic  ^r\>-\  for  hi-  fate." 
An-1  tin  re  \\ '  !•'•  plaeed  the  lii.le..ii-  ( Jorirou-.  and  the  serjtentS 
hi--in;_'  1:1  t!ie  hair  of  Me«lu-a.  And  thence  came  the  -torie-  of 
th"-e  dreailt'ul  AiM.a/on-,  "gallant  viraL'"1^,"  who  ravain1*!  all 
the  ]•,  ^i..n  and  carried  victorious  arm-,  ac<-oniing  to  the  historian, 
into  >•.  ria  a;id  A-ia  Minor. 

P.II'  tninj!'(|  with  -o  much  fable  the  ancient  writer-  had  al-o 
«o!nejn-f  coneeption- of  thi-  region,  and  manv  thin-j-  mentioned 
I-'.'  I  b  !' •"  1"' M-,  [)ioilnru-,  and  partic-ularlv  bv  Strabo.  \\}\<\  \\rote 
n!t-rt!ie  ll'iinan  -wav  wa-  lullv  e-tal»li-hed  over  Africa  indicate 
that  Create-!  (-ire  wa- u-e.l  in  trea-uring  the  ^-nip- of  ki  o\v!e<|ge 
\v!i;c!i  (j.tf.'l  up  out  of  tl.e  deeper  wildernc-f  bevond.  Vet  that 
i-."pt  it-  -ecret-  -o  jealon-lv  that  the  dili'.eni'e  .,f 
lu-'onan-  aii'l  tin  i-a^erne--  of  explorers  and  the  {••  >'MT  ••(  anuiin 
wi-re  i  ipiallv  inefVeefnal  in  extending  the  ran^e  of  pree:,,  knowl- 
irj  %  !,. -\-ond  the  nurrow  confine-,  on  the  north  and  a  limited 


SARACEN   CONQUEST.  j«) 

extent  of  western  coast.  The  light  struggled  to  penetrate  the 
gloom,  its  blunted  rays  rested  against  an  opacity,  and  rose  ir 
towering  brilliancy,  and  stood  a  while. flashing  like  a  resisted 
sun,  then  paled  and  quivered  and  fell,  and  left  the  continent  a 
heritage  of  darkness  to  the  future. 

When  the  Saracen  sway  swept  across  from  Asia,  in  whose 
social  system  such  marvellous  changes  had  been  wrought,  and 
established  itself  among  the  splendid  relics  and  smoldering  fires 
so  readily  surrendered  by  the  effeminate  descendants  of  the 
Greeks  and  Romans,  an  auspicious  day  seemed  to  be  dawning 
on  the  continent,  the  arts  and  sciences  were  revived  on  that  con- 
secrated soil.  "  Kven  remote  Mauritania,  which  seemed  doomed 
to  be  forever  the  inheritance  of  a  barbarous  and  nomadic  race, 
was  converted  into  a  civilized  empire,  and  its  capital,  Fex,  be- 
came a  distinguished  school  of  learning."  They  introduced  the 
camel  from  the  sandy  wastes  of  Arabia.  Paths  were  opened 
through  wilds  which  had  hitherto  defied  all  human  effort,  and  a 

O 

trade  in  gold  and  slaves  was  formed  with  countries  which  had 
been  unknown.  By  successive  migrations  these  descendants  of 
the  prophet  multiplied  in  Africa.  Sanguinary  disputes  arose, 
and  the  ill-fortuned  sought  refuge  on  t!:e  southern  side  of  that 
scorching  sea  of  sand  which  had  arr'^ed  the  ambition  of 
Cambvses  and  Alexander.  There,  in  the  .erritorv  distinguished 
on  our  maps  as  Soudan,  these  enterprising  travellers  founded 
several  flourishing  kingdoms,  which  Europeans  vainly  sought 
to  reach  until  within  a  comparatively  recent  date.  They  founded 
Ghana,  boasting  unrivalled  splendor,  whose  roval  master  rode 
out  attended  bv  obedient  elephants  and  camelopards — a  king- 
dom which,  after  various  fortunes  as  subject  to  Timbuctoo, 
Kashna,  and  Sa"katoo,  came  to  be  identified  in  the  present  Kano. 
And  there  was  Tocrur,  the  Takror  of  Major  Penman,  the  Sacka- 
too  of  our  maps — in  that  early  day  enjoying  an  extensive  traffic 
with  the  people  of  the  west,  who  brought  shells  and  brass  to  bar- 
ter for  foreign  trinkets.  Then  came  Kuku,  the  Bornou  of  to- 
day. Farther  south  was  the  ancient  city  of  Kangha,  famous  tor 
its  industries  and  arts,  which  modern  historians  have  recognized 
in  the  city  of  Loggun,  celebrated,  by  Major  Denham,  for  its 
ingenuities,  its  manufactures,  and  its  witty  women. 

Along   the   southern   borders  of  Soudan   there  were  districts 


20  MOHAMMEDAN    FA  I  LI' RE. 

known  as  Wangara  ami  Un^am,  mentioned  confusedly  by  the 
early  writers,  whence  the  merchants  are  reputed  t«»  have  derivni 
va>t  rpiantities  ot'nold.  The  progress  rested  against  tlie  Alpine 
ratiiro  on  the  south,  which  divides  Studan  from  (iuinea,  and  the 
dwellers  in  those,  wild  regions  were  hmnded  as  infidels,  and  the 
darkness  which  rej>olle<l  the  liirht  of  I-lam  wa-  made  to  cover 
deed-  of  violence  and  blood,  and  tnnsurcs  I'm-  the  final  dav 
stories  of  wrong  for  which  there  is  no  adequate  condemnation  in 
human  censure.  Wc-t  v»f  the  Xi^er  there  was  an  extensive  n- 
poii.  hardly  known  to  exi>t  by  the  Arabians.  (  ):i  the  ea-t  the 
region- of  Nubia  and  Abyssinia,  which  Grecian  enterprise,  had 
reached  with  ships,  had  received  the  name  of  Christ,  and  hostile 
e n-ed- can  no  inure  touch  than  li^ht  and  darkness  ;  and  there 
Ma-  an  unknown  wilderness  on  the  wot,  there  were  despised 
infidi-U  ««ii  tin-  south,  and  a  hateil  cree«l  in  Nubia  and  Abyssinia 
—Mohammedan  altars  in  the  mid>t.  The  splendors  »>f  thi-< 
foreign  jin-'-nct'  etintnt«te<l  stranjjjfly  with  the  native  \\ildiu--s 
fur  a  time,  but  it  wa-  not  a  eorrect ivc,  a— iinilatin^  li^ht.  It 
\va-  niiMlifvinj;,  but  a^^nivatin^.  Tlie  citi»-  were  bright  >jn>ts 
uuiju- -tiniiiiblv  ;  .-.i  p«-nal  lin-s  arc  bright,  but  i-arth  is  darker 
for  iln'ir  -jiare. 

l-'it!'ii!  «  tli>rt-  were  ma'lc  to  explore  tin-  wt--f  tVoin  the  inland 
c;t  i.  •-.  S  It  It  -ini  •!)  t-  were  ejli  •<•!••<  1  tV»ni  -mil  In  rn  A  rabia  at  various 
point-  al< int;  t In-  ea-t«  rn  c«:i-t  as  far  down  a^  Mo/^unbi(|Ue.  Hut 
Moliauinie<lanisin  \\a-  tin-  in-]»iration  of  Arab  ener-jv  ;  .Moham- 
IIM  •<!  ani-iu  po--i--.,l  no  inherent  vitalit\\  The  in-piration 
(jradiiallv  failed;  barbari-tu  ^radnallv  r«-<%laiiued  it^  dominion 
bv  the  de^'i-neracv  <>\  it-  invader-,  and  In-came  intniHT  be,-an~e 
it  \\  i-  a  lirtle  mure  intelligent.  The  11  !'e  which  j~  i,.  ,t  noiiri-ln  <l 
bv  the  Irnit-  «if  nature  mii-t  i^raduallv  \\a-te  awav  and  -jive 
i:-«  it  to  t'ee.l  that  \\  here. >n  it  -lioiiM  ha\'e  t--d.  The  eivili/ation 
uhi'h  doe,  nut  a.-- imitate  the  Mirroundint;  barbari-m  mn^t  ii-ill' 
(!••_'.  :,•  rate  into  it-  -t  iniMlaut.  The  -nn  ii--!|'  \\..u!d  be  luit  h  ill' 
•\  -ui i  amid  the  whirling  realm-  it  it  ibd  nut  c!nt ln>  them  all  \\  ith 
it-  ii-.\'n  lirl_'htne--  and  make  them  helper-*.  Lri\:n'j  a-  they  t"e- 
n-ive.  A  _'._rr-  --ion  \~  the  lau  of  e\i-ti -ii--<  .  'I  he  in.  ;li  ;.  nev  «.t' 
Moh  Hiimedaii  e;\-;li/at  ion  in  A  !'i  ;.-;i  \\.t-  the  pfop!n  ,  \  i,;'  its 
ij,.;i  !.'!'••.  Tin  proph'-ev  «a-  onlv  too  tnn.  '1  he  ./lurvde- 
jiart'-l.  and  that  \\hieh  protni-ed  to  elevate  Aln-a  1»  i-ame  its 


THE    FIFTEENTH    CENTURY.  21 

toouhus:  that  which  promised  healing  became  a  poison  inflaming 
nml  agonizing  wherever  it  touched.  The  continent  was  involved 
in  deeper  darkness — a  festering  barbarism — which  gave  oil'  to 
the  world  a  tribute  that  cursed  the  giver  and  the  receiver. 

While  the  Crescent  was  resting  with  daz/ling  splendor  over 
Africa,  Europe  was  in  that  profound  apathy  which  attended  the 
''  decline  of  the  Roman  empire,  the  irruption  of  the  barbarous 
nations,  and  the  rude  systems  of  feudal  polity  which  were  inau- 
gurated. There  was  absolute  indifference  to  all  matters  pertain- 
ing (o  science,  discovery  and  distant  commerce."  Kven  the 
naval  efforts  of  Venice  and  Genoa  extcnd'-d  little  farther  than 
Alexandria  and  the  Black  Sea.  Satisfied  by  the  wealth  and 
power  to  which  they  had  been  raised  by  this  limited  commerce, 
these  celebrated  commonwealths  made  no  attempt  to  open  a  moru 
extended  path  over  the  ex-can. 

"About  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century,  the  human  mind 
began  to  make  a  grand  movement  in  every  direction,  especially 
in  religion,  science,  industry,  and  freedom.  It  eagerlv  sought 
not  only  to  break  loose  from  that  thraldom  in  which  it  had 
bjen  bound  for  so  many  ages,  but  to  rival  and  even  surpass  all 
that  had  been  achieved  during  the  most  brilliant  eras  of  an- 
tiquity. These  high  aims  we  peculiarly  directed  to  the  de- 
partment of  maritime  discovery.  The  invention  of  the  compass, 
the  skill  of  the  Venetian  and  Genoese  pilots,  and  the  knowledge 
transmitted  from  former  times,  inspired  all  classes  with  the 
hope  of  being  able  to  pass  the  ancient  barriers  and  to  throw  light 
upon  regions  hitherto  unknown."  Portugal,  whose  kings  were 
preeminent  in  intelligence  and  enterprise,  was  the  first  to  nbev 
this  new  inspiration.  Various  circumstances  conspired  to  fix 
the  eye  of  Portugal  on  the  western  border  of  Africa  as  the  choice 
field  for  research.  The  ancient  expeditions  had  furnished  vcrv 
limited  and  indefinite  information  of  this  coast,  and' even  the 
wonderful  discoveries  of  Columbus  in  later  vears  hardlv  excited 
greater  surprise  and  admiration  than  the  voyages  which  so 
rapidlv  scattered  the  mists  which  had  hung  through  all  the  past 
about  the  shores  of  Sahara,  Senegambia,  Guinea,  and  Lower 
Guinea. 

In  1433  Gilianez  passed  the  Cupe  Bojador,  and  Portuguese 
naviirators  were  not  long  in  reaching  the  fertile  regions  watered 


22  PORTUGAL'S  EFFOHT. 

by  the  Senegal  ami  the  Gambia;  within  forty  years  Portugal 
hat!  made  settlements  :is  far  tl»»\vn  as  the  Congo,  and  according 
to  the  ancient  maxim  which  gives  to  the  victors  all  countries 
eoncjuered  from  intidel  nations,  had  received  from  the  I*ojx>  a 
grant  of  full  dominion  in  all  lands  which  should  l>e  discovered 
beyond  ( 'aj>e  liojador  and  in  their  farther  progress  eastward. 
The  capital  of  iWui^uoe  possessions,  on  the  continent  wa-  fixe<l 
at  Klmina,  and  the  kini;  hesitated  not  to  assume  the  |x»mpous 
title  of  Lord  of  (Juim-a.  The  new-comers,  true  children  of 
Home,  apiM-aled  chiefly  to  their  religion,  in  e>tal>lishini;  their 
sway.  Baptisms  were  made  by  wholesale,  which  was  the  easier 
done  IK-CUUS*'  the  ceremony  includetl  the  putting  of  salt  on  tin 
tongue  of  the  converts,  and  this  was  a  commodity  for  a  tjis\p 
of  which  many  of*  the  ]>oor  creatures  wouli]  have  faced  anv  -oU 
of  formula.  The  Con^o  princes  were  particularly  favorable 
for  a  time  to  the  m w  M  -tern  ;  various  coiirte>ie-  were  exchanged, 
whole  nation^  wen-  ( 'hristianixcd  by  contract,  the  freest  >co|  i 
was  trivcn  to  the  missionaries,  and  thoe  worthio  seemixl  to 
have  been  really  animated  bv  a  vcrv  devotctl  and  jwrseverilij; 
xe:il.  Hut  thev  unfortunately  put  the  presentation  of  Ix-ads, 
Airni  I>«-i,  images  of  the  Madonna,  and  saints,  splendid  pro- 
ci---!..!)-.,  ri<-li  furniture,  ami  ^olcrmi  festival.^  of  the  ehuri-h  In- 
fore  the  doetri'ie>  of  the  Bible.  They  >ou-lit  to  da//lc  the  eve 
Hither  than  iii~trti'-t  the  mind,  to  M-eiire  an  outward  alle^ianee 
rather  than  an  inward  renewal.  'I  he  new  convert.*  viewed  the 
fMHjM-l  onlv  a»  a  Lrav  and  pom|Miu>  p:i'j<aiit  ;  thev  had  no  idea 
of  the  duties  mid  obliterations  wiiicii  were  enjoined  bv  the  sacntl 
name  which  \\n<  pronounci*!  over  them.  And  naturally  enough, 
there  was  a  tremendmis  reversion  of  feeling  when  the  authori- 
ties l>«"_'an  to  interlrre  with  .-»me  of  tln>~r  barbarous  en-torn-, 
N\!III  fi  were  with  them  time-honored  and  f-acnil,  though  c«>n- 
d'-innef]  by  the  ehurch.  The  in«jiii-ition  \\a-  brought  lo  aid  in 
the  pronioti-.n  of  tint  pricticrd  pictv  \\hich  otiL'ht  to  h:ive  In -en 
»i.ii'_'ht  ]>\  the  failliful  |>r«-entat ion  of  truth  and  the  eonvi  MHMI 
of  -onl-;  \\:!|-,  ai'o-<-,  coinplieations  multiplied.  The  IIH--IOII- 
iirie^  toi'i-il  aii'l  endiireil  \\ith  a  hcroi-m  worthy  of  truer  princi- 
i.l.-,  I. ut  thev  fiiil.-d.  And  the  bank-  <-f  the  (  t.n^o,  e~|M-rialIv, 
\vb'-re  tin  ir  -..Teatevt  exertion  \\a>  jiiit  forth,  retain  no  Iran- or 
tradition  of  them. 


ENGLAND   AND   FRANCE. 

"  Portugal  passed  under  the  yoke  of  Philip  II.  of  Spain,  ai.d 
under  that  influence  l)ccnine  involved  in  war  with  the  Dutch, 
who  had  risen  to  the  first  rank  as  a  naval  jx-ople,  and  who-e 
splendid  armaments  successively  stripped  them  of  their  uio.-t 
important  possessions  on  the  African  continent  as  well  as  in  the 
East  Indies."  In  lO.'J'J,  Klmina,  their  capital,  the  key  to  the 
gold  coast,  fell  into  the  hands  of  these  successful  rival.-. 

But  the  splendid  results  which  had  followed  so  rapidly 
the  revival  of  interest  in  maritime  matters  had  attracted  uni- 
versal attention  to  the  ocean,  and  that  vast  trackle.-s  realm 
l>ecame  the  theatre  where  unrivalled  wealth  and  glory  seemed 
to  await  the  seeking.  The  gallant  Hollanders  soon  found  their 
proud  mastership  of  the  seas  disputed  by  powerful  rivals. 
England  and  France  had  come  to  the  front  in  European  affairs, 
and  were  already  pressing  forward  in  a  jealous  race  to  surpa.-s 
each  other  and  all  the  past.  For  a  while  their  settlements  on 
the  African  coast  were  made  with  a  view  only  to  obtaining 
slaves  for  their  new  possessions  in  the  West  Indies.  Soon 
there  came  wonderful  reports  of  the  gold-trade  carried  on  at 
Timbuctoo.  There  was  no  hope  of  establishing  a  highway 
across  the  desert  from  the  north,  and  a  company  was  formed  in 
England  tor  the  purpose  of  exploring  the  Gambia,  bv  which  thr 
geographical  systems  of  the  age  warranted  them  in  hoping  to 
reach  the  glittering  treasures.  Richard  Thompson,  the  first 
representative  of  this  companv,  after  desperate  engagements  with 
the  Portuguese,  who  still  boasted  their  lordship  over  the  region, 
fell  bv  the  hands  of  his  own  men.  But  a  better  star  guided  his 
successor,  Richard  Jobson,  who,  while  falling  far  short  of  reaching 
the  far-famed  Timbuctoo,  won,  perhaps,  the  glory  of  being  the 
first  Englishman  who  had  an  opportunity  to  observe  the  manner- 
and  superstitions  peculiar  to  native  Africa.  As  he  advanced,  a 
new  world  seemed  to  dawn  on  him.  All  about  him  land  and 
water  were  inhabited  bv  multitudes  of  savage  animals.  The 
enormous  sea-horses  sported  in  everv  pool,  herds  of  enormous 
elephants  crowded  to  the  shore,  lions  and  leopards  moved  about 
among  the  trees  in  full  view,  and  even-where  there  were  mvriads 
of  monkeys  going  through  their  eccentric  evolutions.  Armies  of 
baboons  marched  along  oecasionallv,  and  displayed  their  surlv 
tempers  by  horrid  grimaces  and  angry  gesticulations,  as  they 


24  JOBSOX    AND    MUXGO    PARK. 

watched  the  progress  of  the  intruders.  The  ap|>earance  ana 
customs  of  the  human  dwellers  in  the  region  were  in  keeping 
with  the  utter  wildness,  and  many  were  the  wonderful  stories 
he  had  to  tell  his  countrymen  ot  the  kindnesses  and  cruelties, 
the  fashions  and  lollies,  the  graces  and  hideousnos  which  he 
NI\V,  and  the  strange  things  he  heard.  But  the  goal  was  not 
reached.  Then,  for  a  long  time,  the  spirit  of  discovery,  so  far 
:is  [HTtained  to  Africa,  was  dormant  in  England.  And  when  it 
revived  a  little  in  \7'2O,  it  was  only  to  be  a,s>ured,  by  the  ex- 
jMilition  of  ( 'aptain  Stibbs,  that  the  theories  of  reaching  the 
interior  bv  the  Gambia  had  been  only  a  delusion. 

While  the  Knglish  sought  to  ascend  the  (lambia,  S'ticgal 
wa-  the  Niger  to  the  French,  the  stream  bv  which  thev  hoped 
to  rt ach  the  regions  of  gold.  Thev  founded  the  settlement  of 
St.  I/ mi.-  in  1<>2(>,  but  little  was  accomplished  until  1G97,  when 
Siciir  Drue  wa-  appointed  director  oi  the  company's  aflairs, 
who  made  various  journey-  into  the  interior,  penetrating  as  far 
as  Bamboiik,  distinguished  still  Ibr  its  mines  of  gold.  Hut 
.-till  then-  remained  the  va-t  blank  on  the  map  oi'  Africa,  and 
the  fabulous  -lories  of  wonderful  wealth  came  floating  up  out 
o'.'the  unknown,  while  the  remote-t  e\tremitie<  of  land  in  other 
(piarters  of  the  globe  were  I*  in^  brought  under  contribution  to 
the  general  fund  of  knowledge  and  wealth. 

At  length  the  African  A-.-oeiation  was  formed  in  Kngland, 
aiid  introduced  a  new  era  in  African  discoveries.  Fir.-t,  Mr. 
[/•dvard.a  born  traveller,  who  had  .-ailed  around  the  world  with 
('aptain  < 'ook,  had  lived  in  North  America,  and  journcved  to 
the  remotest  j>art-  of  A-ia,  wa-  sent  out,  ami  die<i  in  Kgypt  lxi- 

fiireeven    iMgllllllllg   th«'propo-ed    joliriieV  along   the    Nile.       1  hell 

I.ii'-a-  attempted  (»  en.—  the  de.-ert  from  Tripoli;  the  daring 
Major  1  Ion ^h ton  fell  the  victim  of  Moori-h  [wriiilv,  \\  hile  boldly 
jienetratinti  the  continent  from  the  mouth  o|  the  (  iambia.  Then 
(-.ime  tli«-  celebrated  Mungo  Park,  \\ho  \\a-  de-tined  to  take  the 
front  rink  of  all  the  trave||i-r-  of  hi-  dav.  \\ho-e  dreadful 
MifV'-rin;j-,  aid  nnri\  alleil  h<  I'oi-n'.  ami  unconi|UerabIe  |icr-e- 
v« -ranee  \«, .  i «  a.-  much  matter  o|  a-loni-hmeiit  and  admiration 
afc  tli-'  <li-'  o\-i  rn •-  he  iiia«li,  and  the  c\p!oit.»  he  |»erformed. 
\\'hii«-  Mr  P.iik  wa-  makiiiu'  hi-  di-'-ovrie-  in  S-negambia, 
Cftiin«a,  and  u<-t<rn  Nujdan,  l''redcrie  Horneinan  wa.-  .-cut  out 


MYSTEUY    OF   TIIK    NIGER    DIKI'ELLKD.  2") 

I'V  the  association,  penetrating  the  continent  from  the  north. 
Travelling  u.s  11  Mohammedan,  with  various  caravans  he  crossed 
the  dreary  wastes  to  Mourxouk  and  thence  southward,  and 
never  returned.  Various  unauthenticatcd  reports  were  made 
by  individuals  claiming  to  have  been  shipwrecked  and  to  have 
wandered  great  distances  inland,  and  seen  wonderful  things 
and  made  wonderful  discoveries.  Several  expeditions  sent  out 
with  high  hopes  and  great  expense  were  comparatively  fruit- 
less. 

The  patience  and  zeal  of  those  who  had  devoted  themselves 
to  this  great  work  was  at  length  rewarded  by  the  verv  re- 
markable and  successful  journeys  of  Denham  and  Clapperton, 
who  crossed  the  desert  from  Tripoli  and  traversed  the  whole 
region  which  so  many  centuries  before  had  furni.-hed  a  home 
to  the  wandering'sons  of  the  prophet.  Timbuctoo,  Kano  and 
Sackatoo  were  all  called  on  to  reveal  their  secrets.  Kingdoms, 
before  unknown,  took  their  place  in  history.  New  mountains, 
lakes,  and  rivers,  came  out  under  the  indefatigable  labors  of 
these  heroic  men,  as  at  the  bidding  of  a  magician.  Jiiit  tie 
course  of  the  Niger,  the  mighty  river  which  was  found  watering 
those  distant  inland  regions,  was  still  unknown.  Park  had 
traced  it  only  a  little  lower  down  than  Jioussa,  when  his  splen- 
did career  was  brought  to  its  fatal  close.  It  was  to  be  the 
glory  of  Richard  Lander  to  dispel  this  mystery.  The  grand 
problem  which  had  perplexed  Europe  for  so  manv  a^es,  on 
which,  during  a  period  of  nearly  forty  years,  so  many  ellbrts 
and  sacrifices  had  been  expended  in  vain,  was  completely  re- 
polved.  Park  in  his  first  journey  reached  the  bank-  of'  the 
Niger,  saw  it  rolling  its  waters  toward  the  interior  of  the  conti- 
nent, and  theorists  readily  leaped  to  the  conclusion,  '•  This  must 
be  the  Nile."  The  same  traveller  proved  its  continuous  pro- 
gress for  more  than  one  thousand  miles.  Lander  followed  all 
its  windings  until  it  emptied  itself  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean — a 
discoverv  which  was  hailed  with  rejoicing  in  all  Europe  as 
opening  a  highway  to  the  most  fertile  and  improved  and 
healthful  portions  of  the  interior. 

From  these  settlements  along  the  western  coast  variou<  expe- 
ditions were  sent  into  the  country  lor  purposes  of  discoverv  and 
trade,  and  missionary  enterprises  found  footing  at  various  {mints. 


BARBAROUS    KINGDOMS. 

A  chain  of  European  forts  wort-  ereet*-d  along  nearly  the  entire 
roust,  luit  \vitli  the  almndonmcnt  of  the  slave-trade  by  Great 
Britain,  ano1  tin-  vigorous  measures  again-t  it,  the  territory 
passed  into  the-  j»or>s«-v-ion  of  a  number  of  jn-ttv  states,  inanv  of 
which  eom|Hr-e  aristocratic  republics,  turbulent,  re-t!«-ss,  li<vn- 
tious,  ami  rendered  more  depraved  hv  their  intercourse  with 
Kuro|>ean-.  Hut  a  little  inland  there  are  found  in  this  traet 
several  powerful  and  well-organized  kingdoms.  Conspicuous 
among  th«-m  i>  I)ahomey,  one  of  the  strang«->t  kingdoms  on  the 
face  of  the  earth.  A  kingdom  which  was  U-gun  in  blood  and 
cruelty,  and  whieh  has  maintained  it.-  exi-ten<v  toi  more  than 
two  tx'uturiis  in  -jiitc  n(  the  terrible  M-enes  eontinuallv  enacted 
— rtt-iies  whieh  would  drive  alino-t  any  other  nation  i-t  revolt  — 
then1,  almost  under  the  shadow  of  Christian  mission  -t.uion-,  ;ire 
still  enaeted  the  hloo.lv  drama-  ot  human  s;ieriti«fs.  iluman 
gktiiU  are  drinking-etips.  And  the  horrid  hrutnlities  of  the  king 
at  home  and  the  tiendi-h  invasions  of  neighixiring  istati-s  are  su.— 
taimnl  l>v  a  dreadful  armv  of  Ama/ons.  finding  a  Satauie  solace 
for  the  enfori-ed  scierifieis  of  their  erliliate  .-late  in  lilo<Hliest 
dii-d-.  There,  t«K»,  are  th<«  A-hantee>.  hardlv  better  than  the 
Dahomev.  South  of'  Daliotiiev,  jn-t  abovt-  the  equator,  in 
I/iut-r  ( iiiiii' -a,  are  t he  Kans— the  cannibals  oi  I>n  ( 'haillu  and 
Mr.  li-:i'li.  wh-t-4-  horrid  barbari-m  slnn-ks  the  blunte-t  >t n-i- 
bilitif-  in  ••ivili/rd  land-.  A  land  \\lnTc  even  the  grave  atlbrds 
no  -ei-uritv  from  the  unnatural  gluttony.  A  people  "uho  b;ir- 
t'-r  th'-ir  il<  ad  among  them-el\  e-  ;  "  the  rivals  of'  the  Niarn- 
Nfun  in  tho-e  or^ic-  :incl  wild  ilanec-  on  whieh  Mr.  Si-ltweni- 
fnrdi  ha-  ea-t  -ii<-h  vivid  li-jht.  A  long  llie  s:une  trai-t,  a  little 
baek  from  the  i-«ia-J,  are  the  A-hiri,  the  (  aiiima,  and  various 
orher  trib«--,  \\ho-c  -trance  eu-tom-  enrieh  the  volume-  of  I  >u 
('haill'i.  Th'-rf,  too,  js  the  fanioii-  "A-hatr^o  I.a:id." 

I'.:  i_'ht' -r  -jMit-  are  -,-«-n  in  the  mid-t  ot'the  darkne*v-, :  the 
li-^ht  M['  ' 'hri-tianit v  i-  i>tabli-hed  at  varion-  |Miint- along  the 
eoa-t  ;  and  '-oloni/ation  t-nl« -rjtri-'  -«  ha\e  taken  a  hold  which 
j)r»:n,-«-  grind  i  •  -n it  -  in  t  inn-. 

leaving    tii'    \\<-|.i'n    eoa.-t.  we    upproaeh    the    ( 'a|M-  of  (Jo««d 

H..JH-,    ai>"iit     \\hi<  h    th ntendiii^    o»-ian-    in«  el     \\i;h    a    rajr 

uLi'h    :tj-i'i!!''l    tin-    -tout   In  art    o!    1  >ia/ .  ;    \v  l;o-<-  |M-a-i-|ij|   name 
d    tii<-    l-.ld    -ui;;    of'  th<-   ki!r_r  «  ho  I'oiild   !-«re-e»' 


CAJ'K    COLONY.  20 

The  Dutch,  ever  wide  awake  to  the  lx*t  chances,  soon  sei/«  d 
on  the  CajH*  and  began  the  settlement  which  has  gradually  "X- 
tende<l  over  the  Cape  country,  and  made  its  impression  on  ma.iv 
of  the  tril>es  of  southern  Africa,  furnishing,  besides  a  foos 
hold  for  the  missionary,  splendid  opportunities  to  the  sports- 
men, and  a  start  ing- point  for  many  of  the  most  important  ex- 
plorations. Associated  with  this  |>oint  we  find  the  names  of 
Hope,  and  Harrow,  and  Lichtenstein,  who  shed  the  earliest  light 
on  the  habits  and  homes  of  the  Hottentots  and  various  ('a lire 
tribes.  Hither  came  Campbell,  and  Trutter,  mid  Somerville, 
and  Molfat,  to  deeds  of  love  and  heroism  which  have  enriched 
the  literature  of  missions. 

And  hither,  too,  in  later  days  came  Livingstone,  purj>osing 
in  his  heart  to  do  only  as  other  men  had  done;  chosen  of  God 
to  do  a  peculiar  and  unrivalled  work,  ruid  lift  the  curtain  on  all 
the  hidden  region. 

While  so  much  attention  was  being  bestowed  by  European 
nations  on  the  western  coast,  the  eastern  had  remained  either 
unknown  or  in  the  undisputed  possession  of  the  Arabs.  In 
14S9,  when  Vasco  de  (lama  had  rounded  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  he  touched  at  Mozambique,  Mozamba,  and  Milinda, 
where  he  found  the  Arabs  ruling  in  all  their  Mohammedan 
bigotry.  Cabrial  visited  Qniloa,  and  verv  soon  the  power  of 
Portugal  had  swept  the  ancient  settlers  from  the  delta  of  the 
Zambezi.  They  quiekly  found  their  way  up  the  river  and 
established  the  forts  of  Sena  and  Tete,  and  ultimately  the  city 
of  Zumbo,  with  whose  ruins  we  will  become  familiar.  From 
these  settlements  several  journeys  seem  to  have  been  made  into 
the  interior,  extending  some  of  them  quite  into  the  heart  of  the 
ivgion  which  came  down  to  our  time  an  unsiyhtlv  blank.  But 
only  the  dusty  unexplored  archives  of  the  Portuguese  intern- 
ment can  reveal  the  now  useless  facts  which  were  so  jt-alou>lv 
concealed  when  they  would  have  been  welcomed  bv  the  world. 
The  same  fatal  policy  which  distinguished  their  ellbrts  in  the 
west  brought  speedy  decay  of  power  lien1  likewise.  A  govern- 
ment, over  anxious  for  gain  and  unscrupulous  as  to  mea-ures. 
and  a  church  with  nothing  better  to  give  than  bead-  and  cruci- 
fixes, and  images,  and  solemn  mummeries,  can  have  no  lasting 
glory. 


30  T1IK    KAST    COAST. 

Tin-  regions  -outh  of  Mozambique  remained  almost  unknoun 
until  the  establishment  of  the  Kngli*li  eolony  at  Natal.  At  a 
cum|»aralively  re<vnt  date  tin-  earlier  hi.-tory  of  this  settlement 
W;L*  attendi-d  with  mo-t  distressing  eomplieutions  with  the 
native>,  but  at  length  Natal  n>-e  -o  far  above  adversity  a-  to  IKV 
eome  jH-rhap-  tin-  nin-t  desirable  lield  of  emigration  on  tin-  Con- 
tinent. The  remarkable  natural  advantages  have  great  Iv  a.--i-ted 
tlie  lalior  of  indu-try  an«l  art  in  making  this  district  tin-  "  FJv- 
^illlIl  "  of  Snith  AlVi'-a.  Tin-  tril><->  who  Mirroiind  tin-  beautiful 
horm-.  and  ••an-fullv  iMiltivatMl  li<  Id-  and  blooming  ^anlm-  <»f 
the  top  i^nrr-  n-tain  ii'-ni-  ot'  tluir  t-arlv  hostility;  cultivating 
inon-  th«-  |*  aivful  lial»it~  H»  \\i-ll  and  wi>rlv  reeoninifiided  t<» 
tin-in,  tlx-v  an-  rat  In  r  plea-ant  neighbors,  aflbrdinj;  in  tin  ir  ILT- 
nor.init-  an  ainjih-  ti«  Id  fur  the  philanthropist  and  (/hri-tian,  and 
in  tln-ir  >tnin_'<  -jM.rt-  and  rivalries  entertainment  unsurpassed. 
lint  al'ti-r  Natal  had  b«  <  n  made  \<>  bin—  oni  a>  a  ro><-,  tin-re  >ti!I 
rrinaiin-d  a  '-..u-idfralilc  c\t«-nt  <»t  tlu-  African  coa-t  \'ailc<l  in 
ulnio>(  ai)-"!uti  darkiic--.  All  that  \'a-t  rc^mn  lx*t  \veeli  Ab\s- 
>inia  and  tin-  i-ijiiat'.r  \\a-  -till  the  land  of  liable'.  Thi-  "  /•  -rrn 
im-'-'/iii'"  "  \\-.\-  bc!i«'\-.'d  tn  In-  the  ancient  Iti'i/m  (''uiniiinnnift'i'itt 
{•>  hav-1  iind'  r_r"ii--  '_ri'cat  re\'oluli«»ns,  to  be  jM»rv-e.s-ed  1»\  inde- 
p'-ndi-nt  t  ril»-  -  ••('  <  ialla-  and  Smimali-,  and  to  term  with  aroma- 
tic-. 'piei-.,  nn  ir!i,  a!'**--,  ivorv,  ostrieh  leather-,  indigo,  entton. 
::nd  nrh'-r  \alu:il>!<  article,-  (•!'  commerce,  vet  it  wa-  .-till  inn  x- 
,,!,„•„!. 

Abi»ut  the  time  that  I>avid  Living-tone  \va>  taking  hi-  lii>t 
I---"!,-  in  African  life.  Lieutenant  Christopher,  in  ouninand 
i'i'  the  Ibiii'-ralilc  La-t  India  (  'ompany'-  war-brii;  "  Tiu'ri-," 
t"i|e||.d  at  -cveral  ji-iint-  on  tin-  eoa-t,  and  made  a  few  -Imrt 

)'  illt'1!'  \'-    lilt'  i    the   ri  ill  III  1"\'. 

Hut  i  he  .jran-le-i  realm-  of  wonder  hen-  wen-  ju-t  iM-^inn 

ab-.irli  i  II.H!,  MI  atJ-'tii  i"ii.  The  inijuin  <•!'  the  ancient-  \\  a- 
tak<  n  up  'AJth  in  u  enthil-iri-m.  'I  lie  lhe..ne-,  <.{  |'a«-\  a 
Abv--:ni:in-  and  >-\'  llrii'-e  had  been  -et  a-id  •.  A  -arch  i 

tllle    -Mirce    of     tlie       Nile     h:i,|     -||e,-,-eded     jlial      till'    tile    I.  111].    I     . 

Ni^-r.-i-  the  '_•',  -.-ind  |.  i  <''•]'  in.  And  mailing  tin-  in-ii-e  nearlv 
t  iian  aii  v  ••!  !n  r  <  j  ';•-':•  in  ".  a-  t  If  >-:\^<  rip--  t<  •  know  \\  hat  la\  be- 
I|.:if!i  th.i!  Va-l  blal.L  \\llicli  i-strllded  from  tllf  C;|]H-  Colony  to 

hotidan  and  from    L"-.s-r   <i;iin-at.i    X;injn«-bar. 


an 


ABYSSINIA    AND   THE    NILE.  .'JJ 

The  ponderous  volumes  of  Bruce  won  highest  prai<e  for  the 
light  which  they  shed  on  Abyssinia,  that  land  of  long-prevail  ing 
mystorv,  where  ancient  credulity  asserted  that  unicorns  and 
lions  held  their  deadly  combats,  and  dragons  (lapped  their 
scaly  wings  through  air;  that  golden  mountains  towered  toward 
the  sky,  and  river  beds  were  paved  with  diamonds;  and,  mo-t 
of  all,  where  Presto  John,  the  priest  and  king,  was  said  to  hold 
his  court,  a  Christian  Solomon  of  the  middle  ages;  a  land  which 
in  the  full  light  of  history  still  engages  peculiar  attention  ;  where 
beautiful  women  and  splendid  horsemen  bewilder  the  astonished 
traveller  with  their  accomplishments;  and  most  loathsome  cus- 
toms disgust  him ;  where  everything  is  an  astonishment ;  a 
country  which  has  come  into  distinguished  prominence  in  con- 
nection with  the  sources  of  the  Nile;  whose  lofty  mountains 
garner  the  showers  with  which  it  contributes  to  the  great  patron 
of  Egyptian  wealth  and  plenty. 

A  host  of  travellers  followed  Bruce  in  Abyssinia  ;  most  notable 
of  them  was  Dr.  Beke,  who  was  the  first  to  give  the  world  a 
map  of  the  regions  in  which  the  Nile  sources  were  supposed  to 
be  involved.  The  Blue  and  White  Nile  were  soon  brought  into 
notice,  and  the  public  interest  deepened  in  the  work.  The 
Pasha  of  Egypt  entered  the  field  with  an  expedition,  \vhi< 'i 
started  from  Khartum  in  December,  1839,  and  was  actively  en- 
gaged seventv-two  davs.  A  second  and  a  third  Egyptian  expe- 
dition was  sent  out  ;  but  still  the  problem  seemed  to  becone 
more  intricate.  It  remained  for  Sir  Samuel  Baker  to  di.-cover 
the  Albert  X'Van/.a;  for  Speke  and  Burton  to  discover  the 
Tanganyika  ;  for  Speke  to  tell  the  world  of  Victoria  X'Yan/a, 
and  for  Livingstone  to  trace  the  Lualaba  through  the  Banir- 
weolo.  the  Moero,  and  the  Kanalondo  to  its  junction  with  the 
Lomame,  and  for  a  coming  man  to  come  in  between  and  divide 
or  unite  t-hese  various  waters. 

While  all  these  efforts  were  hein<r  put  forth  east.  wiNt,  and 
south,  various  adventurers  were  t raver-ing  the  northern  shores 
among  the  relics  of  ancient  greatness,  and  visiting  the  sand-irirt 
cities  of  the  desert  ;  and  from  a  thousand  sources  informatiwn 
was  beini;  derived  about  this  vast  continent  so  lon^  wrapt  ir. 
gloom.  Only  absolute  darkness  prevailed  over  the  va-t  region 
marked  on  the  map,  Unknown  !  Not  only  the  curiositv  uf  the 


32  THK    UNKNOWN. 

world  called  for  its  explanation,  commerce  called  tor  it ;  there 
niiirht  lx>  vast  treasures  concealed  there;  there  might  lx>  nations 
ea>ilv  advanced  in  industrial  interests.  Philanthropy  called  for 
it  :  then-  were  undoubtedly  untold  wrongs  crying  to  the  world 
for  redress :  there  were  evils  of  ignorance  and  snj»erstition 
which  might  be  mitigate*!.  Science  called  for  it  :  her  commission 
einbmces  the  whole  world,  and  while  there  is  a  rock  unbroken 
or  a  star  without  u  name  she  must  not  rest.  But,  ino-t  of  all, 
religion  called  lor  it — Christianity — there  wen-  in  that  region 
null-  to  be  saved.  The  time  hatl  come,  and  a  man  mine  tbr- 
wanl.  little  thinking  of  the  future  that  lay  Ix-fore  him  ;  a  man 
who.-e  juv  it  w:ts  to  do  what  his  hands  might  find  to  do.  onlv 
doiirj  :ill  for  ('hri-t;  a  man  not  sent  but  h-d,  st«  p  bv  -tep.  It 
is  t!:i>  man  whom  we  will  follow  up  and  down  in  the  deep 
shadows  of  that  vast  unknown;  whose  adventures  we  will  ob- 
H-rvt- ;  who~e  toils  mid  sacrifices  we  will  note;  who^i-  character 
we  will  .-tml\  ;  and  bv  who<(.>  wonderful  ijnidnnee  we  will  find 
out  all  the  -trance,  astoni^hini;,  distressing,  animating,  pleti.sinj; 
and  important  things  the  land  can  reveal. 

The  wonderful  jonrnev*  of  which  we  will  read  covered  :nanv 
thoii-:ii|il  mile-;  gt'iiorally  thev  will  be  found  to  lie  in  regions 
when-  not  the  sh;ulo\v  of  a  tnulitioli  e\i-t~  of  a  while  man's 
pn-enee  l.-'ti.re.  \\"e  will  find  tribe-  i ire-en ti in:  everv  pha-c 
<>t'  unetvili/.ed  lite.  \\  e  will  find  everv  wild  animal  which  !*•- 
loir.",  j.i  the  continent  represented.  \\'e  will  liinl  st range  and 
wotnlerful  in-ect-,  and  dreadt'nl  reptile^.  \\'e  will  read  of 
ruaniji-  r'^'kinir  with  |M-stilenc*',  deserts  and  tnic§klc<s  fori  -ts, 
rivi-r~  and  inoiinlain*.  Kvervwhcrc  we  will  -ee  a  man  alone, 
often  u  it  hoi  it  -npplie-.  with  no  adequate  means  of  self- protect  ion, 
praeti-itr/  no  de.-ej.tinn  ;  evcrywhen1  appearinir  in  hi-  true  char- 
:i'-r.  r  :  evervwln-re  condemning  vice  and  cuminendini;  virtue; 
•  ••  [»•  '<i- MI :  tip-  can-'  lit'  the  oppn~>-ed  a'_ram-f  the  -tron^;  coin- 
^i;it  :!i_'  loii'_r-i-tabli-hed  customs,  and  proji<p-ui'_r  r_rrcat  rctorma- 
!ion-.  'lln-  iu:tii  we  \\ill  -ee  |i:i--iii'_r  unharmed,  an«l  »<-]iInm 
re-i-te«l  bv  native  ti.n-e.  \\"e  will  fee]  thai  he  carrte- a  "  I'lianiud 
lile,"  that  he  i-  "  immortal  until  In-  v.  ork  i-  d..ne."  It  \\i-  »\>- 
m-rve  ran-lully  and  ",ii"h  \\e!l  hi-  life,  we  will  be  v.  i-er  and 
better  than  \\  e  are,  |M-i.|.,  the  knowledge  we  -hall  train  of 

A  ;.;--!. 


CHAPTER  I. 

BLANTYIIK   TO   THK    BAKWAINS. 

Noble  Names — Pavid  Livingstone— -Blantyre— Home  Traditions — The  Faot'cy — 
Common  School — Latin — Love  of  !5ooks--I?e  Honest — His  Father — Mother — 
!?cotti!«h  I'oor — Hot li well — Conversion  —  Missionary  Spirit— China — Medicine — 
Astrology — (ireek — Theology — Africa — Thorough  I 'reparation  —  IMII--  I,e:iv<-s 
Kir.'laml — Cioes  to  Soutli  Africa — Condition  of  Country  -Cape  Colony — ('ape 
Town — Alijoa  Hay — Port  Kli/.aheth — Kuruinaii  or  Latlakoo — Dr.  Mortal — 
Northward — Studying  Lanu'iiaLre,  ete.  -Selects  Mataliosu— Settles — Kindness 
to  the  Natives — A  Lion  Encounter — Joins  the  Bakwains. 

TIIKIIK  are  names  that  live,  and  should  live.  Like  the  men 
who  make  them  honorable,  then;  are  names  which  do  good, 
carrying  light  and  strength.  There  are  names  about  which 
systems,  and  histories,  and  ideal  realms  of  wondrous  beauty 
are;  which  incite  mankind  to  lofty  enterprise,  and  impart  con- 
fidence and  fortitude  and  zeal.  There  are  names  which  honor 
A  world's  remembrance.  It  is  well  and  creditable  ibr  the 
world  that  some  men  are  never  forgotten.  JJnt  of  all,  there 
is  no  life-work  brighter  and  truer  and  loftier  than  that  in 
the  service  of  humanity,  and  the  service  of  humanity  is  per- 
fected i-n  the  dignity  of  Christian  effort.  Amonsx  the  securest 
favorites  of  history,  the  worthiest  are  those  who  lived  ti>r 
others,  and  loved  and  labored  under  the  impulses  of  the 
gospel. 

Such  a  man  was  David  Livingstone.  Hi-  child-lite  was  at 
Blantyre,  by  the  beautiful  Clyde,  above  Glasgow,  in  Scotland. 
He  was  born  there  in  the  year  1S13.  The  humble  home  enter- 
tained some  proud  traditions,  treasured  through  ei^ht  generations 
of  the  family.  The  young  David  listened  with  bounding  heart 
ami  growing  spirit,  while  his  grandfather  told  the  histories  and 
legends  of  the  olden  time.  Culloden  was  in  the  storv.  Ili.s 
great-grandfather  fell  there,  fighting  for  the  old  line  of  kinirs  ; 
and  "  riva  Dark,1'  the  family  home,  had  been  there.  Old  Gaelic 

song.s    trembled    off    the    lips   of    his    grandmother,    beguiling 

33  " 


34  nis  PARENTS 

the  «ocial  hours.  There  w:us  the  spirit  of  heroism  in  the 
home.  A  'ul  ainon^  tin-  traditions  there  were  tlmse  of  HIII;U- 
lar  virtue  ami  integrity.  He  clas.-ed  ilie  dvin^  pn-«vpt  of  a 
hardy  an<i--tor  the  proudest  distinction  of  hi-  faiuilv  :  that 
precept  wa-.  "  lie  lione-t."  Honoty  is  a  match  h>-  birthright; 
he  claimed  it  ;  In-  wa.-  not  proud  of  anything  el-e. 

Hi-  father  wa.-  a  man  of  "  uiillinehin^  hon.-tv,"  ami  was 
employ..!  l.y  Monticth  A:  C'o.,  proprietor*  of  Blaiitvre  Works 
in  i  -on\  -i  yiii'j-  vi-ry  larjje  sum-  of1  moucv  from  (  ila->jo\\  .  and  Itv  the 
honorable  kindness  of  their  firm  his  inhfjritv  was  -o  rewarded 
that  hi>  '!»  ••lining  yeai>  were  >pent  where  he  had  lived,  in  ea.*e 
and  i-onii-'i-t.  He  was  a  man  who  kept  the  heart-  of  hi-  chil- 
dren. Hi-  kindness  and  real  love  were  >\\eeter  to  them  than  all 
that  wealth  -"im-times  hotows  as  its  peculiar  irift.  He  l>roiiL'ht 
liis  childp'U  up  ri'lij^ionsly  ;  it  was  in  eonneetion  with  the  Kirk 
of  Scotland.  It  i-  a  Ix-autiful  tril«ute  nf  lii-  illu-tiions  -«.n: 
"Mv  fatln-r  d<  -i  rved  rnv  la.-tii)Lr  uratiiude  and  homage  f«  r 
present  i  ii'_r  me  from  mv  infancy  with  a  continuously  eon.-i-tenl 
piou-  example.  I  revere  his  memory." 

The  nioiher  ot'  the  man  appear-  only,  and  pa->e-  from  the 
puhlie  vie-.y.  She  wa-  a  ijuiet.  loving,  imlu-trioii-,  -elt-di'iivin^, 
pr.ivin-j:  nn-ther.  (iod  knou--  how  to  cho«»-e  nioiher.-  f'-r  the 
cho-  n  men.  Thi-  mother  \\a-  the  mother  of  a  L't'eat  and 
L'IMM!  man.  She  \\a-  a  women  who,  l>v  her  \  irtue  and  modi  -tv, 
ynd  fortitude  and  eoiiraire,  could  l«-ar  a  her"  and  m-pire  him 
i'or  hi-  d--tin\-.  "An  :in\ioii-  hoil-c-wife,  ,-tri\'i;rj  to  make 
Inith  end-  mei-i,"  |i.iinil  time  and  plaii1  to  e\i  ri  a  true  \\onian  .- 
siii'/u!  ir  and  mighty  intlueuce  upon  her  little  \«,\.  \\  (  \\i!l 
Mot  pp-ume  to  e-tiniat*1  the  magnitude  d|  thai  inlliieiiee.  \\  e 
will  n-it  -.iv  h«.',v  rini'-h  hi-  home  had  to  d..  uith  the  -in-nlar 
thou-hrfidne—  ai:d  .li-tin-iii-h.-,!  pp-c.,eit\  o|'  the  child  ti..it 
t'.;;.,|  ;i'!  ,i:i\  ]otr_'  in  th 


tn  i'.  ''.\  ,\    n^'-toii 

\\a-  p'lt  into  the  lactorv.  I'eople  ..n-ht  not  )••  <!•  -pi-e  little 
f  n-ti.ry  -l"-\  -.  H,  \\<irked  iVoin  -i\  in  tin-  inoniinj  null!  M-lit 
at  nijlit  ;  that  mak<  -  fotn-ti-.ii  hour-  a  da\  .  and  a  <ln!il  jn-' 
t--n  v-  ar-  ••!'  a/-\  'I  h-  r«-  \\  •  i'<-  V<T\  ^.,»<\  -cli'm!-  at  l'il.in!\r«  ; 
tl,  ••'»-.<<  h-  i  -  \\  .  r<-  p:i;.|  t\\  cut  \-fiye  jioimd-  a  Near.  The-i-ho»!- 
trere  !'p  <•  to  the  i-hildr-n  oj'  the  uoikin^  jicojile.  l>a\il  had 


KAUI.Y    STUDIKS    AND    TA.STK.S. 


been  in  one  of  those  schools.  He  must  have  been  well 
advanced  for  his  age.  The  impulse  that  his  mind  ivi<iv<d 
in  the  common  school  was  aided  !>v  the  attractions  of  the 
threat  University  at  (ila.-gow.  JJoys  in  the  neighlx>rhood  (.f 
great  colleges  have  earlier  and  loftier  aspirations  perhaps. 
Anvhow  we  are  informed  that  a  part  of  J)avid  Living-tone's 
first  week's  waives  went  for  "  litiddiman's  Rudiments  of 
Latin,"  and  that  he  pre>.-cd  the  stndv  ol'  that  lain/ua^c  wiih 
jxx'uliar  ardor,  in  an  evening  school,  I  mm  eight  to  ten  o'clock", 
during  a  number  of  years.  '1  here  are  manv  grown  men  w!i<, 
mourn  over  their  ignorance1  who.-e  work  does  not  liil  fourteen 
hours  a  day. 

In  those  evening  hours,  with  a  little  tired  child-bod'.. 
Livingstone  mastered  the  Latin  language,  and  accomplished 
much  in  general  reading.  When  he  was  Mxteen  years  o!-i, 
he  was  «jnite  in  advance  of  his  age.  The  diligence  and  sel'- 
COlltrol  of  the  l>ov  was  the  prophecy  of  the  man.  At  this  ear  \' 
ajje,  too,  the  peculiar  tastes  and  talents  which  rendered  1:  s 
subsequent  life  singularly  successful  and  ve>te<l  his  wore 
with  singular  interest  began  to  appear.  lie  did  not  Ion  - 
?jon/.s-:  he  loved  facts.  He  was  not  charmed  with  the  wove  i 
fancies  of  ([iiiet  etl'eminacy.  lie  delighted  in  stories  of  ativei  - 
ture;  he  was  always  glad  to  put  his  hand  in  the  hand  of  tl.e 
historian,  and  be  led  awav  from  familiar  scenes  to  the  new 
and  the  strange?  and  the  difficult.  The  hero  >pirit  was  in  him. 
This  love  of  the  new  and  eag-rne.-s  fir  travel  were  tempered 
and  sanctified  l>v  an  appreciation  of  the  real  and  the  u-eful. 
lie  had  delight  in  scientific  books  and  experiments. 

The  homo  of  his  childhood  was  admirably  adapted  lor  the 
development  ol  noble  character.  There  was  a  population  of 
nearly  three  thousand.  The  people  were  "  good  .-prcimetis  of 
the  Scottish  poor,"  as  he  tells  us  liini-elt',  "  in  honotv,  morality 
and  intelligence.  '  '1  here  were  all  sorts  of  people,  of  course; 
they  were  generally  awake  to  all  public  (piestioiis  ;  their  inter- 
est was  intelligent;  tin-re  were  -ome  characters  of  uncommon 
worth;  the.-c  j>er.-ons  iMt  peculiar  interest  in  the  thoiiLrhtful, 
studious  lad.  There  were  near  at  hand  manv  spots  hallowed 
iu  Scottish  lii-torv  ---  pots  with  venerable  a-.-oriation-.  The 
Scottish  people  love  uM  associations;  they  treasure  the  deal 
3 


KSMX    AND    MISSIONARY    S1MKIT. 

memorial-  of  th«-  pa-t.  'J'h<-  ancient  domains  of  r>othwell  stood 
with  oj»  n  do,  ,;•  to  thc-e  re-pcct.  d  villagers.  I>avid  Livingstone 
\\a-  <  ne  of  The  people,  and  loved  the-e  .MI-IK -  ;  he  know  their 
hi-iorv.  :.!i  ti..  i:-  ..!•!  traditions  \u  re  in  hi-  hear'.. 

.\  \oii:h,  v,i:h  the  -pint  of  these  as>oriati<>n- and  surround- 
iaj-.  !  •:;  1  of  -f.idy,  \\i;h  ahlltidant  capachv,  wanted  oidv  the 
t.  'tich  of  divine  -race,  and  hi-  In  art  would  Ix.iuid  t-i  in-lilc  -a'-ri- 
J'HT  li.r  <  iii'i-:  :  h<-  \\nuld  tmt  think  of  him-rlf.  Tin-  finn- canir. 
"  I'!..-  -  !:a::j.  .  If  "-ay-,  "  \va-  like  what  inav  !»<•  -nppi>-4'd  would 
la!.--  j  !:.'•••.  w«Tr  it  po--ili'n'  t..  cur,,  a  rase  of  enlor-lilindm---»." 
Th  ::;.j  •:••  •  ia'i'  :i  "''  <  i'  >d'-  I  <\'>-  \\  a-  humiliating  and  com  roll  i  HIT  . 
'lip-  tri-.  in -- oj  ^rarc  c  •!!  '_'a  •_••(•<  1  hi-  -jratit  iid<-  and  aHi-ction  ;  tlic 
lulhic—  and  ma'j'intiidi1  oj  it  wa-  iinanswcrahlc,  and  c-on-tniim-d 
him.  I  ;.']•••  \\a-  no  i-\pn--ion  li-ii  hini  litit  that  o|' a  lit'  -jivcii 
1:1  f'-'Mrn.  !!'•  -javc  him-cll'  t"  (J"d  imniiiliatciv.  Ilrdctcr- 
l:;ii,«d  t"  Lr!\'c  him-t '.{'  to  t }»•  }i> -athcn.  lint  it  \\a-not  AiV'n-a 
.-h  h--  i!i..ir_'hl  •{'.  Ilrv.a-  not  lik.-  1'ark  — hrdid  n..t  make 
>  :;i!  pr-paratioii  1-r  Africa.  II--  look.-d  t.. \\ard  China;  that 
i:iimf!i-c  i-:;,j.irc  -•  cni'd  to  l,--ckon  him.  lie  -Mnli.il  i'or  ( 'hina 
and  v\  i  n!  to  A  fri'-a.  I !  i-  -o  in  (  i. .,  1'-  provideticr.  S.  .m.-tinic- 
{!•••  h'.'i'  -!  titM'-—  (I.--  a  pla.-.-  i-  attaine<l  indiredlv.  (  io,l  oril.  r- 
!  !.'•  j  r  j  ::r:tt  ;•  'ii  n!*  lr-  c),,,-.  n.  1  1  i-  v,  av-  arc  not  like  otir -. 

i  ;.'•  :•!  :i!  i;c;i!  iiiaii  >hn\s-.  him-i-ll"  in  lh>   ln»y.     ^  »>!:,::   I.:\iiiLr- 

•    jl  '•    i!i-::    \\hoc\-er   mini-t- !•-    to    [!,.•   -on!-   of   the    p,  oph- 

,.-!i    ih.-m    throiiL'!:    th-ir  l.odi.  -.       lie  rea-.  -n-  d    that   II. c 

.••:,:;.!•  i..  ••  ?..  :..    d-  -!r-  d.  a-  a  -j'ii'it  i:a!  t«  ;\<  \i>  r  and  !.-  !p>  r.  v. oiil«l 

•,   -..-,] re-!    !•  •  ::::enti"ii    I"    the    hnmMer    intcr.-i-. 

k!.e   -•••!. iii_r    interview    v.  ith    a    l-rd:    it    i-  la-i-r   if  the 

:,j-e    !',!•-:    \\oii.      ('hr:-!     ]    .:d    i:iM'-h    att--n::on    \»    th«- 

,);;-.    ,,...-.;;;.,  ,.\   ,, ...;,',.       >. .   ha\  e  all   I  he  In  -t   and   \\  i-c-t   •  it' 

•    .       l.i',  iir_'-tone  -Iiidi-d    I:.-  dicine    in    preparation  t'.-r 

•    u..rk.       1 !'-    lir-t    1  ""h    !•  •!    him    "  «!•  •  p'\ 

:r.  ••  •  .      ;|:.      p.  rpl-  \in.r      profiindit  ie-    ..f    a-!  r-  .1-  -.:  \   :  " 

;,:,.!    ;  ,    ,  !    j],    hi-  iiiv>  -ti-.'at  i"ii«   \\  h>  n.  lo  hi'    \  oiithln! 

f:ii:  -  •  Tit«-d  '"  !•••  p'  r' !"'!-,  :>.:  d.  in  hi-  "\\  n   '.\  old-, 

I,:,  •      .,  „.,.!    (,,    !,,,;•,  tou.-.rd     ••  lliii-  --u!  and 

1  -.      ?.,  tii''     !•!:•••    <•('    ',!.'•    Klit'.ltholiialile    l,llo\\  Icd-e 


AFKICA    AND    I'KEPAUATION.  Ifi 

I»!anlvre  and  Cambiiwlang,  collecting  shells  and  .-(OIK*  long 
belbre  <reolo<T  \v:is  as  popular  as  it  i-  n<»\v.  A-  a  specimen  of 

^          o/ 
llie    help    and    encouragement    In-    received,    when    the    curious 

child  OIK?  dav  siskrd  a  <|tiarryman,  "  How  did  ever  thc^e  .-hells 
get  into  these  rocks?"  he  was  told,  "  \\licn  ( iod  made  the 
rocks,  I  It1  made  (he  ."-hells  in  them.  And  when  his  honored 
lather  found  his  preference  for  such  study,  he  insisted  on  creating 
u  fondness  for  such  hooks  as  "  .Fourfold  State,"  hy  llo.-ton, 
'•  Practical  Christianity/'  etc. 

It  is  almost  incredible  that  such  varied  and  profound  reading 
as  filled  these  earlv  vears  of  Living-tone  could  have  hern  done 
in  the  midst  of  such  daily  work  in  a  factorv.  lie  really  accom- 
plished all  of  his  reading  hv  placing  liis  hook  whei-e  he  coiiM 
catch  a  sentenc'*,  as  he  passed  backward  and  forward  at  his  work. 
V.  orking  continuallv  in  hi-  faetorv,  he  studied  ( Ireek  at  ( >  iasLrow, 
and  Pivinity  with  IV.  Wardlaw,  l»v  his  own  manu:;l  laiM.r 
providing  i'»r  his  own  education.  Ii  was  a  wonderful  lo\-r  of 
knowledge  and  wonderful  love  of  ( 'hri>t  Avhich  strengthened 
his  heart  ibr  such  a  work.  ^  hat  wonder  that  he  expressed  his 
delight,  when  at  last  he  was  admitted  a  member  of  a  j>roie->io:i 
devoted  to  benevolence!  How  natural!1.'  In:  treasured  ni"-t 
fondly  the  recollections  of  Blantvre  bv  t!ic  (  'Ivde,  through  ail 
of  his  wanderings!  Jt  was  a  sacrifice  for  such  a  man.  Africa. 
ufl'ered  nothing.  It"  asked  for  evcrvthing.  There  could  never 
be  a  home  there  f>r  him;  there  could  never  he  one  anvwhcre 
on  earth.  It  is  a  serious  thing  to  become  a  mis.-ionarv.  (  hri-t 
h;'(l  no  home.  The  missionary  eosnerf  nearest  to  ( 'hi-i-t  in  hi.- 
s<'rvice,  and  he  must  come  nearest  to  Christ  in  his  sacrifice. 
Livingstone  di»l  not  go  to  Africa,  to  find  out  Africa.  He  went 
tin-re  to  carry  Chri.-t  to  the  ignorant  and  lo-t.  The  -'"-pel 
beinuj  hi-  mission,  he  remained  lon^-  enough  in  Knu'Iand  to 


mistake  that  the  intelligence  of  the  t"ac'ner  should  be  graded  bv 
the  advancement  of  the  learner.  The  verv  be-t  jtreparation  is 
desirable  ibr  the  teacher  of  th"  verv  iLrnorant.  I.inle  children 
should  have  the  mo-i  aeeomplishcd  teachers.  P"n't  send  n 
novic-e  in  IVible  truth  to  the  heathen.  (io<l  is  not  in  need  of 
pitch  haste  on  the  part  of  his  servants  that  the  man  he  calls  tor 
a  special  work  HM.V  not  go  about  it  deliberately.  No  time  is 


KN(iI.AND    FOR    AFRh'A. 


k-..\  •  •!  by  ni-liii)L_r  t--  tin-  liattlr  without  om-'.-  armor  ami  w<  a 

.!v:!i^-t«in- •  \\a-  n-ht.  He  km-w  then-  \\  onM  1><-  all  to  pvr, 
a;id  hut  little  t--  r-.-ive.  Tln-iv  i>  ;_'ivat  \\a-te  in  mi.-.-ionarv 
h'e.  A  laan  d"e-  \\i-.ly  to  -eik  thop-u-h  d.  v  1-  -pnient  Ixfop.- 
-•  t-  out  on  -mli  \\nrk.  Liyinir-tom-  wa-  a  man  with  a 
r  a-"iiah!e  -- •!•  ntitie  UnnwKil^c,  ^i-..d  imdi-  al  t  duration,  a 
.-•ad-lit  of  throluu-y — al!  pervaded  hv  the  ]"\-  -•!'  <'hri-l  and 
d.  -.  -  •  "ii  t--  humanity,  \\  ith  a  deep- frit  rail  to  the  In  ailu  n. 

Th  -     -    the  nan   uh->  left    Kn-land    for  Afriea  in    I  M".       I!-' 

•"Hi    in     lvl-'l.      He    \\  a-    twrntv-iive    \-ar-    old    v,  hen    he 

I-  j.ui    hi-   LM'eat   \\ork    thei-e.       It   \\a-   a    lili-    in  flu-  fiillm—  and 

•  '.;-';•-, ty    of    ii-    \  i_'(.r    \\hieh     h--    laid    on    (  i->d'-   altar     in    th  • 

—  •'/.•     -  !    hiinianitv. 

Th-      p-'i'ti-'ii    of    the    heniLrht'-d    ro!i:inii:t    \\hi-h    he    >,].-•:.    1 

\'.  s-  mil  "I    inti-re-t  and  mv-trrv.      Si-  -i  •;•  -  of  \\  -  .;id<  iful  li  rlili'v 

a    d    i •mptin.r    ri -i  r\-./;r-    i.f  \\.ahh    h.i-1    I-  ;•  a    l"n^    time    \><    :\ 

tl     ;:iii'.:    iii     the    p-.pular    niml.        (  'i\  iii/at  i-  n     1""L'(1    (a^ei'v 

t'    .'.  ard     the    h'.'ilh-n    wildern---.       Ae.'-iiin!-,    all    )i:-l-  iinite,    hi! 

jToLii-in-.',  i-t'   nation-    wonhv    of  t!i- !r    ^vmpatliv,    liad    ni"Y.  •' 

.      lit-     Inarl-     of    ('hri-tian-.      The    ini--ionarii-.    \\h.o    had     -jo.  .. 

1  ••  !•-.'•'.  had    hut     little    iiior--    than    hi;:!t     tlnir    li:  -  -   <-\  <  r  a-jain   t 

T'.--      jl"oi:i.       N-i-.v    and     th-'ii    a     nan    \\"iild     n-me   out     i.f    th- 

>'.••]••-     -hado\\-,     attrarti-l     hv     their     1 -:  i  jht  ti- --.      Th'-e     m-  n 

1    '.        ••!    tii--    l.idd- n    ualit.       It     \\a-    lhat     lii-1-1-  n    want    \\hi-h 

i  r!  d    -•    londlv    !-,    the    h.  art    if    Livin-j-toiie.       Hi-    Hi-hhui-1 

v.a-  "••!-.  erated  to  <   hi-:-;.       I  !-•  i-.-ul-l   ii"!   a-----  pi   a  -ervi---- 

.    than   hei-i'ie.       He  could   ii"!   im  a-u  iv  h  i-  i  '1  -'  i-a- 

t;  •:.     hv  ajipap  :  i   -  \ji--di'-ne\-  and    p«  r-onal   -at''  Iv.      'I  In-   Kn^'i-h 

-.'i   '.]>.,    (  'aj-e  had.  in  <  i-- !'-   pr"\  id-  n---  .  pr«-\  id-  -1  a   i'-  --tin-j- 

!    ;•    '   hr:  - '  •  :!iit  v    -•:!      the     n;i: '-rlaiiih  d      (i-rniorv.        I.i^lil     h::'-l 

:,.|    .-!'  darLn---;    that    wa-  all.'      Th-    radia 

T-.  .  :'.!.'!.'   .ii'/h   t  !,••  ::l""!i:.        I  .i\  in:'-!- -m    r-j-  'i'-<  d   in   t  !.-• 

..:    I    :  \\  .     will    llnd    that    hU    U.-rk    :i-ii»n.  -    lli-     •  !    .' 

i:,!-.:,.      h  :\--   :!..-  \vnrK  «•!'<  'liri-ti:i:i  /•  ah      |:  v 

'!  . ..          •  .•  :•-•!...  M    :h-    uni-eei  .._'n:/.  -1    p«  >w  •  r    in  all    I  he 

h     -.-...  •  M   \-  ;•!,  th-    j"V-  and   I-  .int..  -  ••!'  1:  m- 


CAPK   TOWN    AND    Kl'UUMAX.  -'.) 

and  Western.  CapeTown,  where  the  missionary  landed,  is  a  eitv. 
It  occupies  a  splendid  amphitheatre;  three  lofty  mountains 
describe  an  arc  about  it.  There  is  Table  Mountain,  ri-ing  nearly 
10OO  fret  above  the  sea,  Lion's  Head  and  I>evil's  I'eak. 
The  eitv  nestles  in  their  friendly  shadows,  and  look-  at  it-elf 
in  the  sea.  There  are  .'1O.OOO  inhabitants,  all  sort-  of  people, 
Hutch,  English,  Negroes,  Malays,  Hottentots,  everything  and 
nothing.  The  streets  are  straight ;  thev  cross  at  right  angles; 
they  are  threaded  by  canals,  along  whose  bunks  there  are 
rows  of  stately  trees.  The  houses  are  flat  on  top;  they  have 
threat  block  stoops  in  front,  where  the  inmates  lounge  in  the 
evening.  There  are  fifteen  churches.  Mohammedanism  is 
there,  watching  most  jealously  the  intrusion  of'  Christianity. 
There  is  a  ^ood  government, and  the  seet>  may  (juarrel  >ecuiviv. 
Thev  do  it.  It  is  a  pitv.  All  hearts  oiiuht  to  be  united  in 
saving  the  heathen. 

After  a  little  while  spent  resting,  Livingstone  sailed  from 
Cape  Town  around  to  Algoa  P>av,  and  entered  the  country.  It 
is  well  to  look  at  it  on  the  map;  it  will  fix  matters  in  the 
mind.  On  Algoa  P>ay  you  will  see  Port  Kli/abeth.  This  is  a 
town  of  MOOO  inhabitant-,  an  Knglish  settlement,  and  the 
principal  shipping-point  for  the  eastern  division  of  the  eolonv. 
It  is  a  door.  Civilization  goes  in  and  out  with  its  blessings 
and  the  return-.  There  is  a  return  for  all  .-ervice.  ('ivilixa- 
tion  has  adventured  its  wealth  in  the  service  of  barbarism  ; 
enlightened  barbarism  has  always  reimbursed  civili/ation. 
The  Church  carries  the  gospel  to  the  heathen  at  great  co-t  ;  the 
heathen  receive  it,  and  strengthen  the  Church.  The -un  i<>-i.-> 
nothing  bv  lengthening  its  ravs. 

Leaving  the  bav  and  tin1  easy  sailing.  Livingstone  pn--ed 
on  to  the  (iirthest  inland  station  of'  the  Soeietv.  Thi-  -tati-.n  is 
called  Kuruman  or  Lattakoo.  It  was  the  headquarters  of  Hr. 
Moil'at,  who  had  .-pent  many  years  in  that  region;  who-e 
book,  issued  thirty  year.-  airo,  is  full  of'  interest.  Tin-  ho-pita- 
ble  home  trave  a  noble  daughter  to  be  the  companion  of  the 
ini.-sionarv  e\ploi-er. 

Xow  fullv  on  the  ground.  Living-ton.-  e;\-t  about  him  with 
characteristic  dclibvration  and  courage  and  xeal.  It  i-  win  n 
zeal  is  courageous  and  courage  deliberate  that  irivat  tilings  are 


40  .-Tl'DYINt;    Tilt:    LANCjr.UiK. 

a(i«i>iiijili>lic<].  Quitting  Knruman,  and  the  ]>h-a-nres  and 
encouragement-  of  home-faoes  and  home-words,  he  sought  an 
ah-tde  northward.  There  he  denied  him-elf  all  Kuro|»ean 
M«-ietv  .-ix  month-,  that  he  might  identify  liim-elf  with  the 
native-  and  1  aru  their  language,  their  cn.-toni-,  their  hahit>  of 
mind,  their  law-  and  wav  ot  thinking.  'I  he  tril»e  which  hi 
had  cho-rii  v.  a-  that  M-etjon  of  tlie  I'eehnana-  known  a-  l»ak- 
v.  ain-.  The  future  rewarded  the  .-acrihee  he  made  and  the 

tho-e  mot/!.-  of  t  -:1.  the  h-y  \vhich  nnlo-l-'d  l'<  >r  him  door 
after  do..;-  in  hi-  i-nh-Mtmciit  wandering-.  Ill-  home  in  ihc-e 
ln--nth-  \\a-  at  Liiiiliamlia  ;  it  \\a-  called  th--n  I .-  \«\<  .le.  lie 
j.;-oj il  to  make  a  tell  lenient  ther, •;  hut  \\hile  he  \\a-  at 

-,---,  d  of  th.-  t-  rri'.orv  l>v  one  of  tlio-.-  n:.!i\l-  war-  \\hich  ari-e 
a'nio-i  a-  ir» •' j!i« 'in  :v  and  nncxjM-eiedlv  ami  terrililv  in  harhar- 
.-';-  eoiinrri  ~  ;t-  t  he  wild  wind-. 

So  atti  r -onie  journevings  hither  and  thi;hir.  he  .-elected  tli.- 
"  lieaiitilul  valley  of  Mataho-a."  and  remov.  d  to  i'  in  1  •»  1.",.  1  !•• 
ininiediately  ideiitiiietl  liim-elf  thoroughly  \\ifh  the  j.ei.p'.e.  It 
v,a-  hi-  nature  and  hi-  t  hi  .  -rv  I-  -  do  -...  '1  ],,-  j-.-a]  mt.-r,  ~|  \\  h:eh 
I:.-  a'.!o\\..l  him-'-Il'  to  eh,  ij-li  in  cverythiirj  \\!IP!I  coneeni  .1 
tii--m  i-  the  tni<  -t  exjilanation  of  tli'-;r  regard  tor  him  and  1 .:» 
j-.-eiiliar  intlin-iiee  over  th--m.  1  i'  th-y  were  in  \\ani.  h«-  \\  <  uid 
h,  !p  io  jii-ovide  for  them;  if  th-y  \\--re  in  dangi-r.  In-  u^nld 
h,  !|,  tod'-liv-r  them.  I  f  v,  e  v,  ..u'd  give  medicine  to  a  child. 

_'-,,-   it    a   i"Vi!r-t.      11' •  )'•  !:    that    tho-r  jieojile  mn-t  receive 

ii-h    !:!."  a  ehiiil    I    -••  iv    -  in-  dieiti--.       I  le  mad-    th.  m    like 

i,;..i    i.\    j'ie    !..ve    h-    Lore    i!i   m.  manifi  -ti  d    a-'-'ording    to  thiir 

i  ..tup!-. 'i.  n-i-  n  ;    i!i   n    th-v  \\-'ii!d    h- ar    him    in    m:iitir-   \\h:eh 

-  -:,-.,.,  ...  a:..!  d;-./:-.  '-a!.!'  .      'I'hi-  -piril    h  d  I"  a  \<  r\     •  ri-'U- 

...J'.  ;     time  a!'-  r    'li-  --  !tl.  lie  lit    at     Mata!>"-         an 

.    ,';,,  d      jf  enliar    inter-  -!     latterly.        The 

];,-,-     i.     |    1.      ..  ,.     -MI  "I'arlv    troii!ile-ome,  \  -  atnnn-j    on    nio-t 

|,  ..i   ..;!•:.  : :.  ].  r .  d  t. .  tl..  ir  -  ii1-  :  •  t  il  '•  •!•-.  and   !••  iMo-m.-d   1  lie  m;--  iv 

,.•':!..'•  •  -itti. iti.,:,   I ,.!(.'•  v    i-iioie_di.  \\  hen  lh"  killing  of  a  -in.-!.- 

,,..,.    ,.(•   ,1,..;,-    ;,,.;,;.!..•  n.  :  di1-.-  -    v. --uld    have    r-Ii-v.-l    t!i.  m 

,.ti;  ,..e                I    •    1-  r    ;l  u-!:inei  -    the    m;--i..narv  h--a  l<  <\  a 


A    LION    KXCOrXTKH. 

p:irtv  whicli  ho  gathered  and  went  out  to  make  a  victim  which 
should  he  a  hint  to  the  presumptuous  marauders.  A!'I<  r  several 
fiilnres,  they  at  length  discovered  :i  li<»:i  sitting  !>ehiiid  a  .-mall 
hush  on  a  rock.  The  deliberate  aim  of  Livingstone  reached  i:*, 
mark,  hut  liud  the  effect  of  bringing  the  lion  bounding  \\\»>:i 
liim.  Quicker  than  it  can  he  told,  they  fell  tu_TtliiT  t^>  iln- 
ground, and  growling  horrihly  the  monster  shook  him  furioii.-]y, 
inflicting  eleven  wounds  on  the  upper  part,  of  the  arm,  a;i«l 
crushing  the  hone  into  splinters.  That  w-Hind  \vas  (iod's  mark 
placed  on  the  man;  it  \vas  that  \vhich  thirty  years  later  M-rv<d 
to  identify  the  human  remains  \\hich  were  carried  to  Knirland 
as  the  body  of  J)r.  Livingstoju*.  The  all'air  \vas  mic  <•!'  a 
moment;  the  death-shot  had  heeu  received;  the  rage  of  death 
was  in  the  spring  and  fir>t  grasp  of  the  hca.-i  ;  then  he  i! •!! 
over  his  victim,  dead.  Livingstone  had  learned  the  language, 
had  learned  to  ride  an  ox,  had  acquired  some  skill  as  a  pede-- 
trian,  and  had  learned  the  delights  ot'  lion-hunting.  lie  \va.-. 
prepared  for  his  work,  which  was  opening.  The  .-pirit  wa>  in 
him,  and  the  mark  was  on  him:  now  he  might  go  into  th:.- 
wilderness.  lie  attached  himself  to  the  JJakwain  trilje. 


C'HAPTKU    IT. 


TJ;<-     r.r.-l:ll:i!;:l<  —  Tl.-'    FV'.Jfw  .ill!-      >.  .-a,  !,-       Hi-    <'.,  I]  v.  •;•->.  -M-   IT-    iMli.-uhu'*— 
T!i--   I  in\rrir:irii(      r..:]'ii»m  •  •!"  >•  -fl.rlf     <  ri-»    utxl   »  I..\\M      I  >;!V.«  i,!m  -  <•!'  lha 
U  '..,K      I:.-::.-!'      ::.      ll.ui  -Makinj      l»...ii.-in      N.  .),].-     t  ,.,.,jn.-l       I!..-      II    |- 
I\.!.-i:i.  --     :••     I.r.  iiu-l.'in       I  ..\  iii.-~i-  •!!.  '-     >|>.i.;       I  li>       I'...   r-      "...\i!\       A;:- 
r:.-   ::!-!.••  l'ri:i.-if.:.-     ll.H-r-  H.u.-  Li*:iiL'-i"ii.-     .--•!,•  1.  '-    I;.  -.-:.!..•      |.i»i« 
•      ..    -.-J          -   I::-.    -    h.-;....i     (,.  in-   N..(:).«..r.i     I'.-;r.  t..   u.-l  th.- 


T!;I:  I'..  <-lni:i:i:i-  livf  in  a  muiilrv  i  •<  in:irk:il  •!••  I"!'  it-  I":iilty 
;i!'l  I'-rlilil  v,  :i  I'liunt  rv  iilnnnxlin^  in  li-  r>\-.  1  !.«  \  an1  ~«  |>a- 
r:  ..|  lV"Mi  tin-  (  ':i|"-  <  'ti!mi\  1-v  i!i«-  >ii'  ins  i  ••  i  _;  M"iinla;n-, 
•\'..<\  1..  \..n«l  ili,-  ni.,un::ii:i-  a  pa-lmal  tli-iri«-I,  \\lnn-  I'.n-li- 
ii'  ii  ;,iii  |  1  1.  .1  •.  M!.  •:-  li:i\  ••  I  In  .r  \\  a  i  I'll  !'i!i_  »\\  jiv.  alnl  \\'.\<  r  t  !:<  -•• 
(!••  (  );  in,'-  riv<  !'  ;  jii-l  i>\i  r  ili-'  <  'I'.in^,-  :ir--  llir  I'K  •  liuaiia*. 
('i  t!i.-  ],-!!  d  in.  I.  '.•.  !iii-!i  i~  \\«-!,i-  ih--  Kalahari  1  ^  -  r\  ;  "ii 
t  ••  rijlit  l.aii'l,  v.  lii-'li  i-  tin-  i  :i-t.  li«  -  I  !i«-  <  'at;'r«'  l<  rrili-n  ami 
•  .....  '-iMtaiii".  'I  !:•  !'•  '-liiiana-  i  .iinjir!-.'  a  iiuiiiln-r  «.i  li'iln-, 
\','.  ,  ,  •':.;,  )X  |ri\,-  in'l'-|>'-ii'l«-i)I  I'.-'Tiarrlial  aiitln-riiy.  '!(,.-,- 

(;•;  ;[',•     _i;i,  i':il!\      fllli-r     ill     :i'l\:i!i''      ".'     lli-ir     li'  i  J  1  1  1  '•  '!'-     Ml 

n  .•  :;,i.  !ii  •.  it,  •   ;    [!.•  v    iivM-!l    iii'1!'-     ::i    '•!'!'-.  aii'l    ]  av    pinri1 

:i'  r.  •  .  .M   •.  •  n  •:  ;•  ii   '  in.    ;   !  !,-  v  ar>-  lii"l'i-  a<  !  \  a  1  1<-«  •  I    in   1  in    art-. 

'1  ;.  .  :'    Tr  :"•  r    ami    >!ini.-rvi!  !••    an     a—     :at-  •!    \\  itli 

t1;.  •-•..-       Il    !\  ,        .if      till-        |"   "|'l".  'I    I"    -         -J'    11- 


SECHKLK'S   CONVERSION.  45 

sloiie  w;is  there,  is  about  -•')()  miles  from  Kimunun.  One 
linnilffd  miles  may  not  IK-  despi.-ed,  in  u  country  \\herc  all 
journevs  must  be  undertaken  with  one's  eye-  open  to  tho 
dilliciilties  of  forests  ami  wild  beaMs  ami  unfriendly  people, 
ami  where  oxen  convey  you.  The  tir>t  settlement,  L'Od  miles, 
in  advance  of  tin:  hardie.-t  missionary  ctibrt,  wa.->  no  in.-ig- 
nilicant  matter.  Matabosa,  the  mission  station  selected  by 
Dr.  Livingstone,  is  only  a  lew  miles  south  of  the  ciiy  of  the 
chief.  Seehele  was  chief.  There  is  frequent  mention  of  this 
man  in  the  books  of  travellers  in  South  Africa  about  that  time. 
He  stands  out  distinctly,  in  the  meagre  African  hi.-tory  which 
we  possess,  a  noble  specimen.  He  was  a  man  of  singular 
intelligence  and  liberality,  and  grasped  with  avidity  the  rudi- 
ments of  reading  and  mathematics,  and  handled  the.-e  keys 
with  a  masterly  skill,  opening  readily  the  avenues  of  knowl- 
edge. He  received  the  Christian  teacher  with  all  cordiality, 
aid  was  greatlv  delighted  \\ith  the  beauties  of  the  Bible. 
!  <aiah  charmed  him;  over  and  over  he  would  exclaim,  "  He 
v  :i-;  a  line  man  that  Isaiah  ;  he  knew  how  to  speak/' 

Xo  wonder  that  such  a  man,  coming  to  know  the  truth, 
MIS  full  of  amazement  that  Christian  people  had  Iven  >o  long 
a  time  delaying  to  send  his  people  the  go-pel.  "Mv  tort - 
fathers!"  he  would  exclaim,  ''why  did  they  not  send  them  this 
\vrnl?  They  all  passed  away  iu  darkness/'  ()  that  the  reproach 
o(  inactivitv  mav  be  against  us  no  longer!  The  "  i.V.  her-  have 
],''.s-ed  awav  in  darkness!''  The  children  !  the  ( 'liri-t  ian  \\'orld 
nitrst  vindicate  the  name  it  bears,  bv  ari-in^  in  the  -pirit 
of  the  Master,  ii'ivm'41  \\'ings  to  the  -\vord. 

'['\\\<  noble  man  was  greatly  embarrassed  by  the  inc();np;'.ti- 
bilitv  of  the  demands  of  Christianity  with  the  cti-toin- "t'  his 
country,  and  particularly  with  the  relation-  of  a  chi<  f.  There 
he  -at,  in  the  centre;  ranged  around  him.  circle  after  circle, 
were  his  subjects,  in  the  ord'-r  of  their  dignity  or  funily 
strength.  The  one  bond  -which  pi-i-\-adcs  the  \vho]t-  tribe  js 
that  ot'  marriau'e.  Th"  chief  bind-  the  .-tron'jvr  of  th.-  under 
duels  to  himsi»lf  by  taking  \vive-;  of  their  famili---;  the-"  under 
chiefs  in  turn  fasten  yet  humbler  ianiilie-,  to  them  in  th"  .-a me 
way,  and  -o  on. 

The  whole   tribe   is    a   family;   the  chief   is   the   h- ad    of  the 


40  CROSS    AM)    t'KOWN. 

family.  Tic-  missionary  did  not  ntvd  iu.-trnr:  S-dielu  coiuvrn- 
mg  tin-  inij  roj.riety  or  .-infnlne.-.-.  ol'  xuue  of  hi-  eii.-toins.  Hi.-, 
own  inteili-enee  di-eoveivd  his  duty,  and  in  the-  hitu-rm->>  ol'  his 
struck-  hi;  rriitl  :  "  <  )ii  !  I  \\i-h\oti  hail  eome  to  this  ronntrv 

lxt"iv     i      heeame     l-lJtaiJghtl     ill     the     me-he-     of    our     rll-tolll-." 

ll«re  v,a-  a  heathen  ehief.  The  rhief-  under  him  \\eiv  idrnti- 
lied  \\ith  him  and  hound  to  him  hy  tin-  \\  i\  •  -  u  h..m  hr  had 
tain  n.  It  he  ahandoiis  jioly^amv  he  olli-nd.-.  the  under  rhieli- • 
he  -hake-  the  \vhoh-  triiie  to  it-  c  ireiinileivnee.  T\\,,  veal'.-  and 
[tied  ^vitll  the-e  dl  liielll  t  ie-  ;  tile  eolivie 

\v.  re  jH-riiiani  nt  ;  the  ,-aerihee  .-tood  laeiii'/  the  -erviee.  It  w;is 
theoid  and  ever-ne\v  <  Yo.-.s  auain-t  the  <  'ro\\  n. 

I>nrm_r  tlniM-  t\vo  year-  and  a  half  Se,-he!e  CO-OJM  rated  \\!;h 
I  >r.  Living-tone  li«-artiiy,  and  manili -(••,!  mn -ii  ( oiieern  thai  the 

«_r  '-[M-l     mi^l'l     he  aeee[,t,-d     hyhis     Jieojile.         llnli'd.    he    Jiro]io-i'd 

t"  introdnei!  n  in  trn<-  Alrie;;i  -t\le.  hv  the  la-h  ol'  hi-  \\hiji. 
'i  hen.  \\in-n  di-eoiira'/ed  from  that  method,  he  \\ondetvd  a,.d 
Lrrie\-(  d  that  oniv  in  thi-,  \\inre  of  a!i  thinu~  he  \\ould  ha\e 
them  imitate  him,  hi-  [n-oplf  ili-jiix  d  h;-  example.  At  1'  n-jih 
the  hmir  '  ame  ;  the  deei-ion  \va-  -:ri>n_r.  Seehe'a-  a-ked  lor  haj>- 
ti-m,  and,  mtliii  need  cnliri-lv  \>\  In-  o\\  n  i-onvi«'t ion-  of  riidit, 
hroLe  a\\'av  Iroia  all  tho-i-  eii-tom-  \\hieh  he  iirrn-ivcd  to  l.e 
inij't'ojier.  I!'-  -i-nt  h<'ine  ail  of  the  \\i\-, •-  e\e.-j,t  hi-  lir-:.  and 
ura\  ••  to  hi  r  hi-  heart  ain-w  in  <  hn-lian  jiiii-it\'.  1  ii;-  mti  i  !i  r- 
eii'-e  i.;'  (  hri-'. lamt  v  \\  n  h  ] "  •'•.  jam\  i-  oin-  o|  n -.  mo-i  iin|»ojniiar 
f  if  nre-  in  A  friea.  I  in  I  I  he  duvet  m--  and  n-  arn-  --  ol  (  'hn-t  lan 
:i]>|iroaeh  to  (i..d,  tip-  -••!tni'_r  :t-id"  no;  oi.lv  o|  th-ir  «-ii-;om-, 
lit  it  <  •;'  i  iii  ir  -n|ii-r-t  it  ion-,  i  -  a  -t . .  I  L'l''  -il(  i'  <  1 1  iheiiit  \  . 

\\  '  eoti-j'ieiioii-lv  a  ni"i  i/  the  Uak  \sam-  \\a-  t!ieir  iailh  in 
tin-  art  '  r  |-o-,\i  r  of  the  ram-mak'  !'.  I  heir  i-oiin!r\  hordi  r-  «'i 
t  :.•  .  i  -.  n  ;  iVi  '  Hieiit  1\  i  in  v  if  •  d  \\  aii-r  ;  t  he  rain-  are  \\  it  hholdi  n  ; 
I  !.i  P  .n .  mi  n  u  ho  ju'oie--  to  i  irin_r  ram  ;  t  h>  .  ad  nun  !-!•  r  m<  <  1 1 
t-ii.  to  i !,.  •  !•  m  en  [-  ;  I  he\-  elaim  I  he  rain,  i  f  it  coini  -.  a-  hro.i-ht 
l.v  t  ':•  in  ;  if  ir  d...  -  not  eoine.  t!"  n  lh-  \  ar.  •!!•  -.  "  NO  man  i- 
e\  ]..,'.  1  to  -  |ee.  .  d  in  e\  e|-\-  jiarl  leiiiar  matti  r.  N  , ,  •  .  1 ,'.  , .  .n 
-a*.  -,  A  -I.  I  e ..  i  t  >r  ram  ;  t  he.-  |  .j-.-t.  r  to  a  i.  t  !i--  rain-  d. .  f.-r  :  l !..  \ 
ran:.'.:  -•  •  '  .••  i  ;  th-  \  -•  -•  t  i  .  r.i  i  n  -d.  "•. ,:-  ;  i !,.  \  -,  ,  hi-  ri:-  dfine 
I-:.  '  :  :!,.  v  an  in  ii-.,ul,!,  ;  i\t.  \  think  th.  ir  a:--  -:.-i-  .  ••:  nin  -.,. 


THE    DROUGHT    AND    IIOPO.  4- 

During  the  three  years — the  earlier  years  of  Livingstone'* 
settlement — there  was  ulnio.-t  a  continuous  drought.  Se<-li< •!•; 
had  I >een  a  noted  rain-doctor;  no\v  he  would  not  do  anything. 
They  felt  that  Christianity  was  to  account  for  their  parched 
fit-Ids  and  famished  herds  and  their  own  great  Hilli-ring.  Tin  -y 
were  slow  to  embrace  Christianity.  To  Dr.  Livingstone  thfv 
would  sav,  "We  like  you  its  well  as  if  you  had  been  born 
nmonir  us,  but  we  wish  von  to  -rive  up  that  everlasting  preach- 

* 

ing  and  praying.  You  see  we  never  get  rain,  whil.-t  lli<.-< 
tribes  who  never  preach  and  pray  have  plcpty.''  Indeed,  with 
such  impressions,  there  is  no  diflieulty  in  eonipreheii<ling  their 
fcelinirs  if  we  can  onlv  realize  their  distress  during  those  tin-re 

O     /  * 

years — the  rivers  running  dry,  the  leaves  dying  on  the  tivr-, 
needles  retaining  their  polish  perfectly  lying  in  the  street,  the 
mercurv  standing  at  134°  three  inches  under  ground.  Only  the 
long-legged  black  ants  seemed  to  prosper;  thcv  only  deserve  to 
be  said  to  live?;  cvcrythingel.se  seemed  ready  to  give  up.  Tiny 
toiled  on,  under  the  cover  of  recurring  darkness,  year  in  and 
year  out;  somehow  or  other  finding  moisture  for  their  mortar, 
and  rearing  their  singiil'ir  mansions.  ]t  was  a  mockery.  Birds 
suffered,  beasts  suffered,  reptiles  suffered,  fish  suffered,  beetles 
placed  on  the'  surface  died  in  half  an  hour,  man  suffered  ;  only 
the  chambers  of  these  strange  creatures  were  surprisingly  humid. 
It  was  a  question  for  the  curious. 

Sechele's  people  did  noblv.  Thcv  sold  ornament-:  the 
women  did  that.  There  are  women  in  Africa.  It  is  woman s 
mission  to  arise  to  her  noblest  work  in  times  which  cru-h  men. 
It  is  the  mi.-sion  of  African  women.  Thev  sold  ornaments — 
for  corn — to  other  tribes.  The  men  resorted  to  the  Ilnjio;  ih;- 
i-  a  mammoth  trap,  which  is  set  for  the  ^iant-  of'  the  wilderness. 
If  von  look  at  the  picture,  it  is  easiiv  understood.  It  i-  made 
of  huge  piles  driven  lirmlv  in  the  ground,  and  boughs  of  tree.- 
close'v  interwoven  with  the  pi  Us.  There  is  a  strong  barricade 
formed  in  this  wav  ;  it  extends  about  a  mile.  At  the  point  nf 
the  \f  tbrmed  b\-  the-e  hedges  there  is  a  lane;  at  the  end  of  ihi- 
lane  a  pit.  The  men  ea-i'v  em-Use  within  the<e  hcd-^-  a  lar^c 
number  of  animals,  which,  terrified  bv  the  furion^  veil  .'I  tiie 
hunti-rs  and  their  -harp  javelins  ru-h  madlv  alon^-  tin-  converg- 
ing hedges  and  the  narrow  lane  until  the  treacheroi;-  pit  re- 


JS  WANT    AND    HOKIW. 

•vive-  them.  It  H  n  wild,  cruel  wvne.  It  i-  tin-  law  of  extrem- 
ity to  !«•  eniel.  Tin  Bikwains  arc  kind  until  they  Miller;  t-o 
are  jutijtl*1  p-nemllv.  \\ant  i>  lawie.--.  Tlir»u^li  all  of  their 

•  •\tn-initv     I  »r.     Living-tone    was    treated    kindly    and    wrought 
diligent 'v  :••;•   their  enlightenment  and  siivation.      Th«-  \\<-rk  of 
vivi:i_'    UP  n    i-   indejM-ndeiit   of  their  rumliti'in  ;    nn-n   need    the 
;_'  '-;«•!   all    th«-   time.       I  >r.    I -i\  in:r-!"iif   n-mjiii/.-d    tin    dilliriil- 
!:. -.      11.-    k:n".v    ilia:    th'-    ninvrtaiutv,    tin-    anxi-iv    aiM.iit     the* 
t!i[;i_r~  that   jn-r;»h.  ihi-    lawful  i-oliritlldr  alwitlt    l""d.  \va~    indird 
a    M!_:I'Y    hindiM:i--f    tu    In-    >tie» •»•>.-;.       llc'd.d    l:«'t    -u-pi -nd    hi> 
•.-...:!..  I'li:  h.-  '_:!••''•  t!i|-  -n:!'«T«T-  hi-  r-V!)ipathi->.      It  \\iil.  ind.-<-d, 
In-  \\. ',  1  \-,  ii'ii    tii"   (liri-tian   ditirchf-   a'.vakc   thi-r<  'i!,;!i!\    !••  tin- 
i:ii:»»rt:!ii'-"  !•}'  -•  -  kiir^  direct Iv  i h"  inijir<»vi-in*-nt  •  -t'  t !•••  h>  at hi-n, 
ii..t  tialv  i;i  !,ii'r.\  '•    \^f  and   in  their  M»riai    li!r.  I'M!   in  tin-  r<indi« 
':-  :i-  '.;'i.»ii!\-  cMi-iti.rt  and  ha|t]iiiif--. 

'!  si.-    !!:•     <«!'    L:\i!ij-!"in-    i-   a    lr— on.       \\<-   \\:i~    a    f  hr:-tian. 
!!••  \\.i-  a  nii--ii':iarv.       lie   determined    to   cij»n  a  \\av  tii:.'    tin- 

•,\  .  .!'!d  I.'.'jilt  e;it,-r  AtVieji;  that  the  e:  I !  ;  -  1 1 1 .  •;  :•  d  Ii  i  i 'J  !  I  i  }.l\  !l|' 
I1:-  ;_di!'-d  :  lliat  t.he  (  liinvh  mi-jht  ad'!:'  --  t!i«  | •-•..]  !••  \\l,o 

h:  v    I"  •  n  ai  I-  d,  \\  !i-»    are   -t  r.  in;:er   and    ha|  •['.•  r  !<  -r  I  !:•  •  e-  '!iti!)_r 

•  •I    th  •  <   hiireli.       I1.  ;'   there  \\-a-  an  uli-tai'Ie   I"  1  »•  i-nnt'pin:'  d    1-v 
i-:  r    ;  ;:--!•. :i  iri'-~    atii"M_r    t!ie-e    tr.i"  -    IrM'd'  r    !•>    i  iveremne    \l.-.\-\ 
j.  :•;']•!"'     -,  than  eti-l'iin-,  than  want-.       'I  hat   "l"!ae!e  \\  a-  !;\  i;i:r. 
|:    i-i'.'..    1    i:-.  it'    ei\  ;!i/"d  ;    it    eaii-d    it-e!f   human.       h     \\a-    in 

!l     :;:  lil    -!i  .[••     ;     "    '.'      -     •  II'-., ura   :<•  1     1'V    nlir-lde   e|\  lil/all"!l.          1  he 

<      -'•;  •.::    \T    i::1  !-,!i    .    jii-;    :  \>  -ri  1 1  « -f  I !  M  •   I '.-  •  -linair:-.  \\  i  re    •  .•  ,  n  pji-d 

-    •':•       ! ',      : -.       1'ii-  ;•'•    are    p.  ..ple    kii'iv.  n    ;< ^    J!...!--    in     <   ajie 

'  \   ;    '>'..•  .'    :::•'•    a    \«  i'\'    indti-!  ri'iii-,   h<  >\\<  '!'a!  >le    <  la--.        I  n-  -e 

•    !  '..'•',<.  i.      'I  he  lip  in  n  tain-  v.  •  P-  I'-rin'  r!  \  « >>••  M  j  >\<  <\  \<\'  a 

I     <  I'-      i,        had      In,  n     '    M-ell.d.         The    I',,,   h;r:',   :-    1'e- 


PKItSKrL'TION    AND    1'KOVI  IMINVF..  .  J() 

voice.  Tin*  tribes  hated  slavery,  but  were  degraded  ],y  it. 
It  seemed  inevitable.  Soinc'tiines  people  would  sell  their  chil- 
dren. The  inevitable  becomes  tolerable.  Besides  the  dc^rada- 
(iun,  there  was  the  constant  trepidation  and  absolute  insecurity. 
The  sha<li»w  of  those  inoiiiitains  became  a  decree  »l'  instability. 
This  hindered  the  missionary  work;  that  wa.>  Living!  one'.-, 
work.  ( 'hristianitv  and  the  liners  were  enemies.  'I  he  Jlorr> 
were  the  enemies  <>!'  Livingstone;  tliev  did  everything  in  their 
power  to  prevent  him  in  everv  undertaking.  '1  lie  mi  — lon.irv 
would  educate  the  people;  he  cinaneipated  their  mind-  ;  they 
would  become  free  and  strong.  Trade  is  the  companion  of 
Christianity  in  heathen  countries.  Traders  follow  missionaries; 
they  I'ollowed  1  >r.  1  /milestone.  These  trailers  sold  trims  and 
powder.  The  Boers  were  cruel  to  the  weak,  (herelbre  thev  wen; 
cowardly.  Thev  dnaded  the  trader  because  th'-v  dreaded 
powder  and  intns.  ri  hey  dreaded  Livingstone,  because  they 
dreaded  the  trail"!'.  '1  here  could  be  no  peace.  And  when,  at 
last,  Seehele  aro-e  in  self-delence  and  killed  the  fir.- 1  Boers  ev  r 
slain  by  Beehuanas,  Living-tone  was  denounced  as  (he  insti^i- 
tor  of  their  action.  It  was  then  that  the  Boers  de.-troyed  li is 
house,  his  books,  his  papers,  his  all.  Thev  wen:  determined 
that  he  should  not  open  the  country.  Thev  set  him  five  to  do 
it,  and  (breed  him  to  do  so  bv  tearin::1  up  his  nest.  They  v,v  e 
cruel  to  Livingstone,  but  (iod  ^vas  kind  to  Africa.  "1  he  mi  — 
sionarv  could  do  not'.iint;  under  the  Boers;  he  mn.-t  L:'O  norih- 
\vard.  If  he  \veut  northward  or  east \vard  «  r  we-t\vai'd.  ih"  wav 
he  went  would  become  a  road,  and  the  Irnit  would  .--iream  i;; 
stron^t'i' and  stronger,  (lod's  Spirit  h:,d  made  the  missionary  ; 
(iod'-  1'rovitk'iiee  wa>  making  the  e.\plnrcr. 

Si-veral  years  h:id  been  .-pent  battling  with  ihoe  diHieulties. 
The  labors  »f  Pr.  Livingstone  had  extended  sever.;!  hundred 
miles  eastward  from  Kolobenj.:.  lie  had  e-tabli-hed  an  in;i- 
mate  friendsliij)  with  Seehele,  and  other  Bechuan:i  eh;<  ('-,  be-i  1  •- 
gathering  considerable  information  about  the  reirions  bevond. 
]>ut  the  beyond  wa-  across  the  desert.  The  desert  AN';;-  a  diffi- 
culty. It  was  a  heartless  difficulty,  but  it  was  not  human;  i: 
was  hi  nted.  '1  here  were  no  Boers  on  the  uth<  r  .-Me  ;  there  were 
only  h -athen,  and  the  Lake  Xirami.  Thi-  ;a'.e  had  lon^r  b"eu 
an  object  of  anxious  curiusity  to  people  inteivsiL'd  ia  Afi'li-un 


"0  THE    DESEKT    MUST    RE    CROSSED. 

matter^;  and  beyond  Npimi,  the  home  of  a  far-  fa  mod  chief 
and  an  intelligent  tribe  promi^-d  a  most  desirable  footing  for 
C'liri.-tituiitv.  S-hitnane  was  tin-  ehief  of  the  Makololo.  Se- 
biltiane  \\a>  a  r«-illv  ;_'r-at  man;  hi<  praise  was  on  the  li|>s  of 
oth.-r  ehirf-  ;  he  \\a~  a  •_'<  mi-oii-  man.  ]  >r.  Livingstone  longed 
t'»  hno-.v  him  a:i<l  teneh  him  of  (  'hri.-t.  1  If  de-ind  to  jiain  his 
!  the  -In-ii'jth  of  liis  trilx-  to  the  ejo^pel.  The 

chi.  •!'  of'  tin-  I'.:H!:;iiijr\\ato.  the  tribe  jti-t  alntve  the  ]>ak\vailis, 
al!rv>-.t  b'-f.vt-'-n  S.-<-ln-l-  ami  the  lake,  knew  a  route  to  it,  but  he 
v.'.uM  ii"t  i«  ii  it.  IH  -aii-c  he  <li<l  not  \vi-h  the  iv<>i'v  of  the  lake 
r<  -i'>n  t-i  IM.-.,!!),-  aeee»ible  to  the  outside  world.  There  was 
OM'V  inn-  tlnnvr  to  do.  The  deseri  inu-i  b»-  cro.--cd. 

In  ilu-  undertaking  Liviip^sione  \vas  joined  bv  Mr.  O>  well 
and  Mr.  M  iin-:r.-,  both  of  them  noted  travellers.  The  formula- 
Son  b.-fi.i'e  them  \v:t-  one  of  peeuiiar  interest,  though 
]!••  -uliarlv  inho-jiitable.  It  \\  a-  a  de-<-rt  that  \\'as  not  a  de.-ert. 
Then-  \  -  o:i!v  one  \\ant.  That  want  was  water.  There  are 
tr-  •  -  and  vi  iii  -  and  LTra~-e-,  and  animals  ami  reptiles  and  people; 
!>•!'  i  v-  rvthiiiL',  I'.'tn  the  men  to  the  creeping  vine,  is  warelnnt; 
i--.-  •  r.  The  j,':u:!-  -e;ireh  downwanl,  and  send  their  roots 
!'.!•  !"•:!•  :i'!i  the  j  -M'eiK-.l  -inirec;  thiV  mu-t  find  m»i>tlire,  be- 
i-.i'i-  •  ih  '  -''-m  t«.  !.;HJ!I  :it  the  >nn.  The  animaN  are  >neh  a-» 
e::n  ;•  I  -.r  (•  r."d-  v.  i:h"Ut  \\at'-i-.  Their  -;iL"a('it  v  dise«ivers 
t!  •  ,  I-'Urrtaiij-.  :.;,•!  p"ojs  \\hieh  an-  here  and  tin-re.  'I  he 
>.'.'.:.'-  are  lln-hmeii  and  liakalahari.  The  l>n-li- 
r.  •  t!.--  .!•  -.I-'.  Tip-  I'.iikalahari  lovi-  I'reednm.  Tiny 

••!••'!    ill    lil'-de-e[-|     \\hlehlhevhisl    el-e\\  here  ;     tliel'e- 


-hit!.'    d.  -•  rt.      Th-  re  are  jil:int^  in  thi<  wilderness 

«-   t!ie   p!-!,  .   (.f  t;.iiM!ain-.      Thev  bear  ipiite  a  number 

".  !i:--!i    ;  r     !:I!--d    \-.  ;t!i   a  fool.   relVe-hin^    IJijllid  ;    tlie-e 

\   buried   t:ir  l-e!ow  tin-  eril-t.      Tln-v  an-  b<  I  ra\  .  d 

1  t'!.    a-     'a  ive   a-    a    erou  '-    ipiill.      'I  In  re   are    va~t 

•  •!'  ••••'•  r::i-  !"M-    in    -••rue    ve;ir-.       I'\'«r\-  !i\  in::    thin^ 

•'•  •  -    V\  !  Mil    lhe«e  abolllld.         I  'ill!     t  hel'e   \\  el'e   I)ol  |e 

.    pnrtv  v.  a-    there.      Tin-    human  d  \\  •  i  !'  r-  >  >t 

'   •  ;••     in    ei  .!!•••  a!::i  '    tin-    1-  \\     \\at'  nn-j-plaei  s 

t  !i<-  d-     •!  ;'  .'  '',}.       Mi'-   u  '  'i:i'  ;i    li:t\  e  a 

t!:ii:ij-    unter    tV'iin    tli-  -i-    hidden    pool-. 

,•••:   -.-.  :fh    th-  ;r  \  •  --•  !-,  ^^  hi-  h   are   onlv 


BUSHMA2TS   CAMP 


roil  Tin:  I.AKI:  NOAMI.  -> 

ostrich  <"^-slirlls,  \vith  .'i  small  hole  in  them.  They  thru-t  nno 
ctnl  <>f  a  small  iv<'<!  down  to  tin-  water,  and  applying  tin-  lips  to 
tin1  other  end,  suck  ii|>  tin-  precious  fluid,  which  pa.-vs  Irom  the 
moiuh,  through  another  ned  or  lar^e  straw,  into  the  .-hell. 
Thus  thcv  improvise  a  punij).  ^  lieu  thcv  have  filled  a  num- 
ber of  shells,  thcv  an1  borne  far  awav  from  the  spot  to  their 
home-!.  Nnbodv  finds  \\ater  by  finding  the  Bakalahari.  It.c 

existence  is  accounted  their  saciV<l  secret.  It  i<  becau-e  tllC 
tribes  out.-idc  can  find  no  water  that  thev  are  ><.••!  ire. 

'i'hc  iJusliiuan's  scciiritv  i-  in  \n<  poi-uncd  arrow-:,  which  he 
u-es  with  ureat  cordialitv  when  occasion  demand--  it.  'I  h" 
JJnshmcn  arc  manly-looking  and  brave;  the  Hakalahari  are 
moan-looking  and  timid.  Tli<'  weak  and  the  strong,  the  hrav*1 
aiicl  the  timid,  have  e:ieh  their  reason  for  chosin^  this  hoiii" ; 
thev  find  their  interest^  identical,  so  thev  live  together.  The 
Ijtishmen  are  hunters;  the  other-  live  on  roots  and  fruits,  and 
trade  between  the  Irishmen  and  the  world,  with  skin.s  and 
tohaeei  >. 

It  was  the  1-t  of  .Tune,  Is  10,  \vhen  ^Fe-srs.  Ijivingstone, 
()-\\v!l  and  Murray  lei't  Kololx-n^r  i\}r  the  Lake  \;j;ami.  Mes- 
sengers had  come  from  the  chief  of  the  lake  count rv,  whose 
name  was  Leehulatc-be,  inviting  ]>r.  Liviir_r~tone  to  vi.~it  him. 
Theso  messeiiLi'i'i's  had  brouu'ht  wouderlul  accounts  of  the  ivorv 
to  l>e  had  there.  Their  account-;  stimulated  the  Jiakwain 
guides,  though  thvv  did  not  le>-eu  the  diiliculty  of  t!ie  iourn'A-, 
because  wa^osis  could  not  proceed  bv  the  route  which  thcvcamc. 
The  pariv  \vas  iurnished  with  oxen  and  wau'on-;  and  ^uide-; 
and  >ervaut<.  \\  e  can  liardlv  couvev  an  impression  ot'  the 
picture.  1'hev  slowlv  skirled  aloni:  the  dr-eri,  i'rom  jiool  to 
]>ool.  There  wci'e  a  score  of  men,  twentv  hor>e<.  and  about 
eiu'htvoxen.  They  jiassed  I>oatlonama  and  Loprpe.  At  Ma~!me, 
they  lett  the  road  which  they  h:id  t'>l!o\\vd,  and  -tnic'k  out 
northward,  upon  the  dr-ei't.  Tli-A-  pi-e-~ed  on  to  Svrolli.  Ft 
was  toilsonu1  pro^rc--; — th"  deep  sa;id  coinpircd  \vith  the 
scorchinu'  sun.  Serotli  wa-  onlv  a  stiekinir-plaeo,  and  tliere 
\\a.;;  the  dclav  ot'  several  dav<  be! 'ore  t!ie  jiartv  wa<  retVr-hed  bv 
its  slow  stream.  There  wa-  nothiiiLT  more  remarkable  tlria  the 
impatience  of  a  iruide,  the  herd-  of  wild  animals,  and  di— u:i-:<>n.s 
of  Seko'ni,  who  sent  messengers  expressing  the  Lri'-'iite.-t  anxiety 


•r>4  M  HOKOT-A    AM)    Till:    /<)!(. A. 

nlxmt  tin  ru.  ('njiiditv  is  a  livjMK-nti1  in  Afriea  and  everywhere. 
S-k'-tui  t' an  <1  I,ivin_'.-;oiie  \vmild  lind  the  ivory  :  la-  pivu-udtil 
to  In-  afraid  !ii%  would  U-  l..-t  in  tin-  d< •>« -rt. 

At  N>  h"k"i-u  our  traveller-  \\eiv  rulcrtainifl  uith  a  woiaVi- 
ful  and  •  harniin_r  illu-iou.  l>a--in-_r  out  of  a  thi'-k  Kelt  of  tive» 
tla-n-  'our-:  up"ii  th< -ir  vi'-\v  what  -  <  nn-d  l"  !>••  a  1"  antifill  lakr. 
'I  h--  .-  !:i:r_'Min  \\  a-  ea-1.  iri_r  a  l»vi  iv  ha/e  o\ vr  t  he  Mirfatr  ;  tla 
\\av---  \\.-ri-Mtii  a-  it'  daia-in^  and  ri|»j»li:i'j- :  tla- ,-hadow.-  of  tin 
IP'-  \Vi  !'••  triii-  a-<  In-1.  1  hf  rt'\vartl  of  th.  ir  t"il  x-'-niril  at 
liand.  I  '.'.•  v  \vi-n-  di-apji' untt-d  on  li;nlin_r  that  tin-re  wa-  no 
lak--,  IM  v.al'T — oalv  a  '/ri-at  .-alt-pan.  'I  h"  wonderful  mirage 
liad  d  <-.;-,.d  t!i'-:n.  Over  and  o\'ra-lhi\  pa--' -d  northuanl 
\V'-ri-  th'  ','  d'-«-i  i\  i-d  in  the  .-ana-  manner.  Tic1  olij.-ri  of  the', 
(jil'  -t  "»  a-  -:;!!  iar  av.  av. 

At  li-!;_'th  th'  \"  -inick  tlii-  river  X/nija,  llouin-j-  l»v  I!H-  \  iiiaj<- 
of  Hakani'--.  l'!i«-  peopl,- of  tla-  villa-e  in!'..rni'-d  tla-ni  that 
thi-  ii'.hj.-  riv-r  ilov,-i-d  from  the  lake.  NOW.  ih<  n.  lla-v  had  t!  e 
tliP-ad — an  i;1.:-  rr.ii s  {Jtiali1.  '1  liev  had  \'.ali-r:  -ne»-e-.>  \va-  :i 
inatti  r  on!v  of  davs  and  IIH-.  \\hen  ihev  had  pa--ed  aloaj; 
ihis  riv'-r  n- arlv  a  hundred  mile-,  tin  v  met  the  lio-piiality  <  f 
'.he  lak"  rli'a-f.  The  tri'.'-  had  r«-'-i-iv.  d  order-  t-i  jrivr  to  tl  e 
lra\''-!!'-rs  all  di  .-;p  d  aid,  and  <  \p.  ditr  hi-  advann-  \\iih  ail 
n-adin- •--.  Th'-  Ilakoha  \\  a-  found  to  1  r  om-  i.|  i  he  mo-t  mier- 


of  Afri'-a."  Th'  ir  prid'-  i-  in  t  heir  ran"'-.  A  11  day  t  la  v  de- 
li_'ht  to  -:ri!,r  tip  ir  -npp!-1  oar-  in!"  th--  l»an'i!'iil  \\atrr  of  tla-ir 
riv.  r  ;  at  ni_rhl  tla-v  \.,\-<-  t"  -!•-.  p  in  I  la-ir  1">  ii-,  -aii-ly  1-i-teia-d 
i:i  iip  -ri-iani.  llr-  ri  v-r  Taniunak'lr  tlo\\-  MI!"  th"  X"ii^a. 

•••     i, a--'  d    i:-    luoiilh;    i!    !l"v'.  -   d"\\  n    ir-'in  "a    eoiuitrv 


1    !""k-d 

•     of   ihi-     i  ikr   \\a-    pi".  :  OIIIP     d    (o  , 

aii  j. .-.••di. i;  d;-  '.vrv  in  S.-nthrrn  Afri'-a.  'Ihi-  p"int  !nr 
ni -!,,  1  i:.  t..vtoa!l  th.-  lov.ir  jM.riion  ot'  (!;••  eontinent.  and 
(..!,':  i!.-i'.  d  ;  •..'!•  !•'  t!,'-  in!-  P  I  "t'  African  Havi,  wh:ir  i! 
invit-d  a  d  •  ;-!  i:  I.  i  -!  in  trad..  Tlii-  di-r.-v-  ,-y  a— iat-d  th.- 

Tiii-    I:!..-    i  -  •    • '  •:.  ••'  d    !"    In    n'  ar!  v  a    hnndr-  d    mi!'-    in  eir- 
cu!;.  :-:••:.•..        I1  a'-'U:     t  .',  , ,  h;i:id  r-  d   1-  •  t   a!  -  .'.  ••  t  In-   h  \  -  !  of 


AI.O.VI;  TIN:  xor(;.\.  .-,.-, 

the  sea.  The  water  is  cold  and  soft,  and  fn-sh  when  lull;  when 
very  low,  it  is  a  little  brack i-h. 

lint  after  so  inueli  toil,  the  main  olijeet  of  Dr.  Livingstone 
was  not  to  he  reali/.ed  at  this  time.  As  we  said  before,  while 
he  was  in  fact  an  explorer,  he  had  a  loftier  aim.  He  wa.-  a 
missionarv.  He  desired  to  see  Scbituane,  l>ut  Leehnlatebe  uas 
unwilling  that  lie  should  go  there,  and  refn.-ed  guide.-,  and  .-ent 
an  order  to  the  liavieve  to  rcfu-e  pa.-sage  acro.-s  the  river. 
Lechulatebe  was  afraid  of  Sebituane,  who  had  killed  his  father 
and  conquered  his  territory  long  before;  from  whom,  indeed, 
he  hail  himself  been  ransomed.  The  sea.-on  wa-  liir  ailvaneed  ; 
thev  could  not  uo  on.  The  party  turned  baek  and  pa-.-ed 
leisurely  down  the  Zouga,  Mr.  ()s well  having  volunteered  to 
'wing  up  a  boat  from  the  Cape.  On  one  side,  the  bank.-  of  the 
Zouga  arise  perpendicularly  ;  on  the  other,  they  slope  away 
gracefully,  clothed  with  grass.  Along  the-c  gras.-y  .-lopes  the 
liavieve  have  const ruetcil  pitfalls,  in  which  to  entrap  the  wild  ani- 
mals, when  thev  come  down  to  the  water's  edge  to  drink.  Tlie-e 
traps  are  .so  carefully  concealed  that  everv  now  and  then  some  of 
t'»e  [tartv  would  fall  into  one,  though  UHIILT  all  vigilance  to  avoid 
t.ieni.  Hut  not  unfreijuentlv  the  sa^aeitv  ol'the  lordlv  elephant 
is  superior  to  this  strate^v.  The  old  one-  h;ive  been  known  to 
[.recede  the  rest,  and  carefully  uncover  everv  pit  be  tit  re  allowing 
them  to  <n>  down  to  drink.  These  animals  were  l!»und  in  ^reat 
numbers  alon-j;  the  southern  bank  ot'  the  river.  A  beautiful 
antelope,  feeding  in  vast  herds,  attracted  much  attention.  It.- 
•  iitble  appearance,  with  head  uplifted.  u-a/.iiiLr  curiou-Iv  upon  the 
[tartv;  its  lull  white  brea-t  ;  it-  lon^,  curving  antler.-;  the 
splendid  ability  disj)laycd  as  it  went  bounding  awav  over  the 
nnderurowth,  were  indeed  eh:innin«r.  Magnificent  tree-  adorn 
ihe  banks  ;  their  shadows  are  on  the  «jlassy  surface.  S-ime  of 
ihese  trees  measure  twenty  leet  in  diameter.  \  hev  are  crowned 
with  splendid  flower-  of  various  line-.  Their  wonderful  ever- 
green foliage,  droo[)in<;  fjraeefully,  presents  mo-t  eliarmiii'j 
retreats.  Thev  are  ;_rrand.  natural  arbors. 

When  the  eye  fall-  from  the.-e    inaje.-tie  view.-,  and  \vearii.-  of 

•he  feeding  herds  and  rest-  upon   the  water,  there   mav  be  a  ti-!i 

ju-t  leaj)iiiLr  into  the  <un,  or  a  singularly  beautiful  and  harm'e— 

i.ike  gliding  along  the  >hininir  surlaee.      The  liayieye  are  ll-;.- 

4 


.*,'•,  K"i."i;i:s».   HO.MI:  i.iri:. 

>  .MICH,  and  eat  what  thev  catch.  Thev  make-  nets  ;  strangely 
i  noii_di,  too,  tin -ir  in  t-  ar<-  not  unlike  our  own.  Thev  show 
L'tvat  dcxteritv  in  har|xionii)^  the  hipj»ojM>tamus.  Whcnonce 
tin-ir  harlx-d  hladi-  ha-  fixed  it-ill'  in  their  victim,  he  has  only 
on.-  of  two  thin--  t"  do— the  l>oat  mu-t  U-  sina.-hed  or  he  must 

ll'-turning  thu-,  a-  they  w.-nt,  1  >r.  Livingstone  and  his  party 
reached  KO]O!>  n_-.  Mr.  <>-wdl  having  gone  on  toward  the('a|>e. 
Tin'  j'Hini-'V  had  b.-eii  accomplished;  \\hite  men  had  looked 
mi  tin-  water  ahoin  which  untaiinihle  accounts  had  made  them 
-u  curi"U-.  Tin-re  had  Leu  hard-hip-,  hut  htimanitv  had  beep 
-'•r\ed.  Tie-  uav  wa- opened  for  <  'hri-tianitv.  The  inquiring1 
and  •_'vii'Toii-  -vmpathi/cr-  \\ith  the  ignorant  and  degraded  u 
tho-.-dark  fore-t-  had  received  new  inspiration.  The  in  \\-ol 
fhi-  di- -"Y'Tv  had  kindled  a  new  intciv-t  in  Africa.  The  hard: 
mi--i»:ri;'v  d.-i  ;d>  d  t"  -p'-nd  the  winter  with  his  lamilv  in  Koh,- 
ben_r.  HT  it  wa-  not  lo-t  time.  Hi>  hands  were  lull.  1'eopl  • 

•j'-ii'-r.t!!v    hav    a    | r    id«-a  of'  the  real    liti-   of  tho-e  nolde   fe\  • 

\\hom  I  i'id  ea!!-  to  forsake  the  lei-lire  and  comfort  of  civilix.il 
ti'in  tor  tip'  t'lil-  arid  iv-pon-ibilit ie-  of'  a  fol'ei''n  field.  \\  hil. 

I 

thi-  noli!.-  man  i-  'vaitm-j  on  tic  \\mt«  r  ram-,  \\f  mav  look  n 
upon  ihi-  li'itii'-  \\hieh  he  ha-  made. 

Alma!  th'-onlv  liieilit\  \\!i:eh  Africa  oilers  the  ardiili-ct  who 
\\»!''v-  on  tin-  model-  of  rivill/f*]  lite  i-  material.  I  lie  holl-e 
uhi'-h  In-  hiiild-  mu-t  \»'  dearlv  hoiijht  \\ith  man\  d::\--  ot%  hard 
work.  lit;-  \\.a-  emphatieallv  -o  o|  a  home  ani"n^  the  llak- 
w ain-  ;  h'  '-ail -i-  tln-\  ,  ho -,\  i-vr  willing,  have  a  ijiii  •  r  inaliilily  to 
put  t  hiii  _r-  -  1'iare.  I  >r.  Li\  in-j-toiii-  had  to  placet-very  brick 
a:  id  1"  am  v.  i  t  h  hi-  "\\  n  hand.  A  t't'-r  t  he  I  |oll-e  collies  t  he  ll  Vlie_r 
in  it.  '1  h'-  romance  "I"  hard-hip  I"  conic-  \a  rv  real  in  \a-ar-.  It 
;.;•!-'  !••  trii'-  henevolenci  \',hi''ii  lind-  plia-ui''-  in  the  want  of  all 

•'.(.'    •  o'|  v   I II- 'I  I' 'I  -    i  if    •  ai'lv    CX  piTlenee.          \\  e    --mile   ijlllt''    -crioll-lv 

xd:-.    Livini'-i'itic  '_'.iin_r  "lit   \\ith  a    lai'L'1'    batch  "I    dmi^h 
.i!,  I    <!•  jt.--itin_'   it     in  a  •/!••  at     h"!'     -vhi'-h    the  d'>c!or  ha-  -cooped 
our     i:i  a  _M'i   i'    anr    hill.  I  h«-  <ml\    a.-ci--ibli    o\-i  n.        It    inak.  -  one 
tii'd'V'n    t"    thin!.   ••('   th.    \-, .  ai  im  --  and   •.\orr\-of   impr.i\  1-11114 
i  '.  t   i ;  '!    manuta'  '  MM  (;:'    -'  •  1 1  •  a  :id  <  and  1'  -  and    1  ill!  d  r  about 

;«-  ^-  !!   ',  rl.    i,,  .;!.!     h:iV"  d'i!n    in   hi-    !..ii'-!;ie  --.       The  eity   pa-tor, 
I'na^iiiiicj'    h;  m-i  !l    i  un  to  d-  at  !i  u  i?  h  t  h<-  dtitii--  ni    hi-  jio-it  ion, 


TAXING    MIND    AND    BODY.  ;^ 

who  hardly  has  time  to  buy  his  o-.vn  coal,  forgets  that  the  man 
who  has  volunteered  to  be  his  substitute  under  the  command, 
"(Jo  ye  into  all  the  world,"  must  add  to  the  work  of  translating 
or  inventing  a  written  language,  teaching,  preaching,  travelling, 
praving;  the  cultivation  of  his  own  garden,  the  duties  of  .-tniih 
and  carpenter,  the  milking  of  cows,  with  the  hundred  and  nne 
things  not  to  be  thought  of  except  as  they  ari-e.  Such  was  the 
work  on  the  hands  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  while  everv  duty  of  hl- 
had  its  corresponding  dutv  for  his  wile.  Then  there  are  ever- 
occurring  acts  of  kindness,  taxing  mind  and  bodv,  which  the 
noblest  missionaries  have  considered  a  part  of  their  duty.  The 
almost  menial  services  for  the  natives,  themselves  unskilled  '  i 
the  arts  of  comfort,  are  not  a  mean  part  of  the  work  which  fa!  s 
upon  him.  We  must  think  of  the  great  explorer  passing  ba<  i< 
and  forth  in  the  whole  range  of  this  extended  sphere  of  activitv, 
from  mending  shoes  to  making  P>ihles,  and  ever  cheerful  ai  d 
resolute.  We  must  see  his  noble  wife  gladly  and  proudly  1ml  I. 
ing  a  hand  with  him  in  everything,  if  we  would  form  a  tri'e 
conception  of  the  characters  of  the  parties.  And  the  man  ris-.-s 
loftily  indeed  in  our  appreciation,  while  we  observe  the  dignity 
and  humility,  the  tenderness  and  the  strength,  the  mecknes 
and  the  couraire  of  his  life. 


C'll  A  PTKII    I  I  I. 


[.(T!!ii-.t. .n«-'«  ^  «••!!)•!  J.  urn.  y  i ..  t!..-  l.a',..-      I':i-.  th,-  /...nja      !'..r.--l--  Tsi-t«"  — 
li-  •  r  •  -.  :':<•    /  -iiiM      I...,Kf    V.'.'iiii  ALSIMI      1 I..JM  -,  .  I   >.  .  ,:i_-   >.  t.i;u:in«-     (.tii'h-i 

S-.-ur.-l      >i.-kn ft  la!- If,:,      I;. 'urn   i..    K..1..K,  i,/     "[.I"  -ai-n  •  •  f  <  'lii.-S 

S-Situ.iii.-'-  M.-«.-n-.'i-r«      Ti.:r.|  S:.»rt      Th.- <  >;,i   I'.uh      I',  -.-it      (.!!.•!.-  \V:iti'l.-rs 
I  i\f    T.-rrtMr    I'.i>-      \\.ii.-r    r..ui,.i      U:m;ij..:i     imi-i.-    i..    i!,,    ( 'I, ,.»>.•    Tiu- 
M..X..;,.      M.    u  S.  in'.'i.iiii-      I».-.it!i    «.f  S. 'MIII.IU.-      1'i-M  .,\,  r\   "!    th.     /..unlx-i 
!t.-:urri-   !••  i  -!["-     S.  ii.|<   lii-    r:tiitily  t>i  lin^i.uiM      A    N.  «   T.'iir    I   ii'l.-l.ik.  n 
I'.ir!v       )..!!.Ti]     !•!•  .1       I'.TIM'T    «»t'<-uji:ni|.    ,,(    ll,.-    1   a]..        P.,.-'-    ,.|    l!.,-    «    .IJM 
dn.jtn,'    I.Tr;[.ry      I. :!•.[-   ..!"    \Ii--i. .11    \\..-k      Kunnu.iii      I 'r.    M-l':.i;      I'..!-!.- 
Tnn-l.iri..^       I.HM.MI  ..--       \\.u-..!    I;-  r-       I  >i!V,.-Ill!l.'.      -.  n  ..!.;-  >.-,-iin  -I      >!.u;, 
N..r:ii      I.i-.n      I'.nlV.i!..     ^.  .-I,.  •!•  '-     T-.-ir       ;--r|..-ti:-     '!  !,.     it-:ri.-l,      M..i!.i.t,n 
I'.vli-f  in  (!..]       >:ill    I'.ilis       K.  ".'"•       fan  :;•!,.•!    l:,.iM-       I.i  \  :!,_-'.  .M.'-   K  Mplip-  - 
I  r.  i.;-  ;:  i  .11-   'I  !•  ••  —  -;ii^ii';ir   \'il. il.lv      (   i\  iii  •.  .1  i  -     \.i!  i  \  ••  1 1  inili  r-      I   i.kii 
ai.-i     -.i;:hy       lulli-tnl     A-l%;»:i.'.-      'I'!,-     \\  .  y     t,.     tn:     «.:i.     t!i-     A\.-      \\;M 
A;.';  'Hi--    S  ii.-lmroli      I..i.y:iti:i      M:iy   :"',,    I-'-.;     ( 'ir.-u:i;i-Uic.ii      ApiH-nr. 

an.  .•  ..I"  '     iin'.ry. 

I'i:.    LIVIM;>'[I»M:  \\:H  imt   tin-  iniin  i->  fl!>:m<l<'ii  a  <-ln -ri-li«-tl 

<-nt.  ]-|ii-;-''  ;  lii-  f.--"iut  i<-n  -!  [•••n^t  \>>  ii'-'l  \\Ii-n  <lilli<iuh  ic>  inul- 
tij»ii..i.  II.-  !i:nl  ili~i-.ivi-r«-'l  I.:iK'-  N-anii,  hut  In-  li:nl  li"t 
-...•[i  S-hiniiui'1  ;  In'  lia'l  ii"t  ^:iiii'«l  In-  ^n-nt  inilin-ncc  t"r 
<  '!i:  :-t  iani:  v.  II.  \'.:i~  i!>  i<  nuiin-'l  !M  \\.>ulil  \i«\  rdin<|ili^ll  hi- 
ji-.irjM,-,..  A----":  'lin  j  iv  in  April.  1s"''1.  li«-  !"'_;:iii  a  -cr<  .ml  i"iinn-v 
ii'.rtlmanl.  lin-  IIIIK-  >•  •<  \\>  !»•  |"iin<l  lnisi  :  Mr-.  Living-turn- 
:I!-M  '.'a'.'-  I"  l!^1-  ]>:ir!v  lli'1  |'!':!-il!''  ami  -nijiilar  mlii'i-l  "I  a 
\\'.uiati'-  |i P  -•*!!'•<•  a:ii"!i_r  <\j>l"r<-:'-  "i  Air. '-an  ui!«I-,  ami  tin1 
li-  ]  j.'.  -  !i.  --  ami  <_'!•  I'fillli' -•  "\  cliil-lp-M  lna'l'-  tli--  lilliil  ><  1'ili^ 
<»\-v.  aj".ri-  -•••  in  li!.''  a  li"::.'-.  'I'!,:-  tilm-  tins  l'"»k  a  ni<.rr 
ea-'.'-iv  !..•!'••,  aii'l  i'i-J'-:t-l  <>!"  -tril.iti-j;  a>T"--  tli--  (!•  -  rt  tr«>in 
Hi  :.  '!:•  y  ha.!  .l-.n-  h-l'-.n.  I  .iv  in  j  - 1-  •:>.-  .l.-i-l^l  tn  -o 

•!,r  .'i/ii  V.-  )',  i:naii-v.  a:..  t>.%\n.  'I  h«-  i-hli-!'  ih-iv,  I  .rtu.-h.-, 
r,,!,!',  ..]  I,'.!  ,-,  !f  -.,  1:  -,.-  h.-u  !..:il.  M  !•;.  I!,'"  -m-..-  -  ..f  tli.- 
l).--..r  i:,  h  r.  .r;m-r  \-<nrt>  :  .  jt:..l  .h.-lar-.l  hint-!!'  «-"iit.  nt. 
K.  i-  liinj-  l!i--  /•  i:.'a.  t!.!  lit-  pai'\  .!-..--••!  it.  L:\iiiLr 

»'..:i.-    .l.-i/air)/     !!.'  il:!:i-  ult\    v.  hi.  !i     hr     Iiii-hl 


kiA>N<;  Tin:  /<H;<;A.  :>'.) 

again  have  in  proceeding  if  lie  passed  the  ford  ami  depended 
on  Lechulatelie  to  assi.-t  liini  at  the  lake.  Seehele  parted 
with  thnii  hen1,  being  anxious  to  meet  that  chief.  The  party 
then  passed  along  the  northern  hank  of  the  Zouga.  Their 
progress  was  slow  and  laborious.  The  great  trees  stood  so 
thickly  that  the  wagon-road  had  to  he  made  by  cutting  them 
down,  and  the  multitude  of  pitfalls  proved  a  terrible  alllictioa 
notwithstanding  all  possible  watchfulness.  The  oxen  weru 
Kidlv  unfortunate  in  combating  with  this  diflieulty  ;  many  of 
them  were  killed  or  crippled  :  for  although  the  Jiayeiye  were 
friendly  to  Livingstone's  undertaking,  and  would  gladlv  uncover 
tlu-  j>its,  they  could  not  be  always  aware  of  his  approach.  Thus 
wearily  the  party  pivs.-ed  on,  until  thev  reached  again  the 
confluence  of  the  Tamuuak'le.  There  a  fresh  barrier  con- 
fronted them.  There  is  a  llv,  ca!le<l  the  tsetse,  which  infests 
certain  sections  of  the  country,  whose  bite  is  singularly  fatal  to 
domestic  animals;  it  is  absolutely  impossible  to  pass  through 
such  sections  without  the  Ibrleit  of  all  the  oxen  or  horses.  The 
choice  of  the  travellers  was  standing  in  the  wilderness,  return- 
ing, the  tsetse,  and  crossing  to  the  southern  side  again.  They 
crossed,  and  hurried  along  until  once  more  they  looked  on  the 
lake,  by  whose  border  the  engraving  gives  us  the  pleasing 
picture  of  ])r.  Livingstone  and  family  enjoying  the  fresh 
morning  as  peacefully  as  ever  a  iamily  strolled  along  our 
own  lakes. 

The  hesitation  of  Lcehulatehe  yielded  at  length  to  the  solicita- 
tions of  Seehele  and  the  oiler  of  Dr.  Livingstone's  splendid  gun  ; 
the  guides  were  promised,  aiid  arrangements  \vere  perfected  for 
the  entertainment  of  his  family.  Dr.  Livingstone  was  buoyant 
in  the  thought  of  mounting  hf>  ox  for  the  home  of  Sebituane. 
The  morning  came  ;  with  it  eame  disappointment.  The  stub- 
born chief  had  consented  ;  a  protest  was  entered  with  which 
there  could  be  no  reasoning,  which  could  not  be  bought  over 
even  by  London-made  gnus.  The  children  both  opened  their 
eyes  in  the  morning,  their  little  bodies  scorched  with  African 
fever.  The  servants  soon  were  its  victims.  There  could  be  no 
debating:  only  the  desert  air  would  cool  the  lire  in  those  swollen 
veins.  The  second  time  the  hero  was  foiled  They  returned  to 
Kolobensr- 


r.  •  TliK    THIUI»    ATTF.M1T. 

When  Sfluinane  ln-anl  of  the  attempt*  "f  Livingstone  to  rwieh 
him.  In-  immediately  *•  nt  hi-  iiio^-niii  r-  to  tin-  ehief-,  \viih 
j>n-^-iit-,  ri-'|ti.  -:nr_:  t!i«  -MI  to  rvn»liT  all  tin-  a--i-tane»-  they  eon'd 
to  tin-  mi—  i'-aarv.  ll-'-nit  thirteen  brown  eo\v  t"  L»  •<  •hulatrlx', 
thirteen  \\hit'-  eo\\-  t->  Si-kuini,  and  tii;rti<-n  Mark  o>\\>  to 
Sfln-ii-  ;  l'i;t  though  th«--i-  ehit  f-  weiv  all  di-.-plv  indebted  to 
S-i)ituaiii-.  and  ^rr«-atlv  d<  pi-ndi  nt  on  hi-  d.-iiK  n-  \  .  -o  -jivat  \va«* 
tin  ir  nnv,  il!i:i_'ii.---  t"  havr  tin-  r»  inott-r  r«  j  i"ii-  uf  tin-  font  inrnt 
hr.ni'jht  in!"  ••"iita-'t  \\ilh  tin-  \voHd  otit-i«lr  that  ihrv  -till  j>,-r- 
»:-[••<!  in  hind'  nn_r  th«-  udvaiift'  of  Living-lone  in  >  \<  rv  j>o»iblfr 
manii'-r.  I-.\'-n  Sfhrle,  \\-ho-.-  {riciid>iit|i  \\a-  a  tliiM'_r  o!'  \car-, 
and  liv-d  l>\'  hi-  own  r..n\-i-i--ion,  tn.  .]v  advantage  ••('  tin-  ali-i-m-o 
"t  I  .:  vm_'-!'  >i)'-  t»  allow  all  the  mi^.-eii^er-  of  S«  hit  naiie  to  ^o 
l»a--k  without  him.  'I  he  o|)[xi-itioii  \\a-  annovin^.  it  \\a-  not 
vli-'-'  >:ii'a_Mn_r. 

\\'aii:;rj  "iilv  t-'T  returning  health,  i!,i-  pai-tv  ri--unn-d  th.-ir 
ti  .ivi-!lin_r  trim  and  -«-t  out  on  the  third  junrn.-v.  \\  <  little 
tl  ink.  v.  ho  MI  .jiii.'tly  talk  ot'  the  li^ht  ot'  eis'ili/ai  i->n  and  <  lii'i-- 
tMiiitv  -jireadiiiLr  gradually  <»\.  r  the  mtirc  earih,  h'>w  -i"ii:!v 
t!  <•  dark  !!••--  n>i-t-  it.  ho\v  h.  r"i<-a!!\  tin-  jii"M.  «  •[•-  "t"  k  no\\  1,  -d-i- 
:4"\  L'"-j"l  hojM1  have  -!n\<-n  in  t  h-  ir  \\  "rk.  'I  h--  lra--k  \\:;- 
ai-«;it  tl.'-  -ann-  a-  in  l'>rt:i'T  |.'Urm-\-,  a-  far  a-  Nih"k"t-a. 
I'  "in  th«  ]•••  it  !.  d  aern.-.*  a  flat,  hard  eonntry  .-evi-ral  hnndi-d 
ni!'-,  Th-'  -alt  |>an-,  \\'hii-h  -•>  tlioroii^hlv  «le-ci\',-d  tin-  di-  - 

0  \.T-T  in  hi-  ti;'-t   \"i~it,  and   \\hieli    an-    found    «|int'-    iVfjilentK' 
«,      ;hi-  ln'oad    |i!a;n,  iiisit'-   th--  att<-nt  i>  «n  of  ih.-   enn«.n-.      ll(  <•.• 
t-  .<  •  a:  ••  I  "in  id  a  ^i''  at   nnnil»<-r  "f  \\  i-l  !-  and  IH-VI  r-failui  j  -|inn^-, 
a:!i"ir^  \\hi'  h  ihe   Iln-hini-li  \\  ••!•'•  foninl      a  Irieiidln-r    home  than 
th'-d'-rt.      'I'll.-.-    |.i-i-.'i.iii-    f.iiintain-    ha\'-    th.-ir  limit  lh«n_:!i. 

1  '.•  \  •  .i:d  t  h-  ;n  a  \'.  id'-  and  <  -h'-<  -i'!-  --  \\  a-t«-  n  -i-I-  \\  it  h    it-  j>a--;\  •• 
-•  •-.  n  •'  !i  '  !<•    ad\'aii'  '    "t'th.-    lr::vi-!l.  r.       I'.-f.r-'   i-nt«  rin_r  on    t!,'- 
d;-'   i!  v  -•    :  ••   !  .i  \  .n-.:  •  t  "ii'  •  -i-i-tuvd  a   I5:i-hman  Lrnid<-  ;   t  h--  irnnl.    • 
ni  ......  ^'i  ••'...       Shulci   diil    ii"t    i'\.-it.'  thi-if  h"ii  -  ;    hi-v,  a-a 


If  :  .'   :  •  •!  i:f    1  <  'iii  i  -'  lan:  t  v       !•  •  -1  !'•  :r_rt  h-  n  a  n.an   t"i'  t  lu- 

:i".  \       '  !."     [.art  \'     :-.  1\  tn>  •  •  I     t  h.-    d<  -"la!  :<  m 

d.  •  ;••  n  •  d.  T!.-  -.  h  id  '.  i't  all  -i^n-  '.)'  !il'-  in  :  !•  -  !  »  h  i  ud  !  l.<  in  ; 
t  h-  .-  •.  i-  "iiii  t  !.•  i-  id.  T!f  -:n_flr  1  1.  !•••••  "t  vi'j'-ta'ioii  sva-  a 
("•.'.,  iif.in-1  -  :  i''.  "  \"'  a  I'ird.  :i  •  •'.  an  in-i-et,  i-nhv 


Till:    DKSKKT    AM)    THK    CJIOMK.  01 

ened  the.  view."  Two  <l:>.vs  passed,  then  Sholto  Ix-gaii  !<• 
wander;  evcrv  now  and  then  In-  would  throw  himself  down, 
crving:  "  No  water,  all  countrv  only  ;  Sliobo  .sleeps  ;  lie  bnal.- 
down  ;  onlv  country."  How  shall  we  picture  the  agonic-  of 
those1  days  to  the  husband  and  lather?  Such  a  wa-te  ;  a  guide 
who-e  mind  wanders;  the  water  in  the  wagons  nearly  exhaust'  d  • 
t.'ie  eliildren  crying  for  thirst  ;  the  silent  emblems  of  inexpre.-si 
l>!e  angni-h  hanging  on  the  eyelids  of  their  mother.  Four  dav- 
pa-^ed.  They  laid  down  in. absolute  helplessness,  onlv  |>ra\  i::.: 
for  the  morning  which  they  trembled  to  see.  The  fifth  dav, 
toward  <'veniii^,  some  of  the  men  returned  to  the  \yapms  \\ii!i 
a  little  of  the  preeioii^  liquid.  No  wonder  it  was  esteemed  (in<l'~ 
best  i^ift.  \\'hen  the  party  readied  the  Mahabe  they  iiiiui'l 
Shobo,  who,  with  inimitable  aetin^,  assumed  the  dignity  ••;' 
fathering  the  whole  exploit,  in  the  presence  of  the  l>ayei\-e. 
At  1'anajoa,  the  son  of  the  head  man  volunteered  to  ^iinle  them 
to  the  ('hobe,  in  the  country  ot'Sebitnane.  They  had  exchanged 
the  dreary  desolation  for  riyers  and  swamps  and  the  fatal  t.-et>e. 
To  the  oxen  it  was  escaping  fiimishinu1,  but  death  by  a  slow  and 
terrible  poison.  Singularly  enough  the  bite  of  this  fly  does  not 
harm  human  beings.  The  wild  animals  of  the  country  teed  in 
their  midst  unharmed  ;  so  does  the  ass,  the  mule  and  the  e;oat. 
The  horse  dies  in  a  few  days  after  being'  bitten,  and  cattle  are 
its  hopeless  victims. 

At  the  ( 'hobe  Livingstone  was  met  by  delighted  Makololo,  who 
conducted  them  joyfully  to  their  chief.  Il  is  remarkable  indeed 
to  find  such  a  man  in  the  heart  of  \\i\<  Inng-negleeted  continent 
a-  Scbituane.  Jle  \va-  a  speciman  of'  the  p..»ibli>  African  man 
which  fully  repaid  the  toil  and  dangers  of'  this  lonn-  juuniey. 
Through  varied  fortunes,  almo.-t  inee--ant  \yars,  lie  iiad  rcaelml 
the  dignity  of  beiii^-  perhaps  the  grrate-t  chief  in  the  coiinirv. 

With   the  loftiest    courage  lie  blended   a   .-iliu'.llar  depth  of>\-|llj:;- 

thy  and  capacity  lor  \yinnin^  the  heart-  of  his  Mil'ject-.  II:.- 
prai>cs  were  seundcd  fir  and  near.  The  people  w«u!d  .-:;\ 
"  He  has  a  heart.  lie  i.-  wi-e.  '  lb-  \\a-  delighteil  by  the  vi-i: 
of  the.  missionary,  and  felt  himself  honored  bv  the  confidence 
which  was  manifested  in  bringing  his  family,  lint  in  the  mid-i 
of  his  realixation  of  his  long-eherislietl  de-ii-e  this  e-reat  chiei'i'i!! 
sick.  Ijivingstone  desired  to  treat  him  himself,  but  l.i  in^  cau- 


i;-j  SKIilTfANK  S    DEATH. 

tiotied  that^  in  tin-  event  «>f  his  d»-ath  in  that  <-.i>e,  the  tribe  would 
hiarne  him,  wa,-  induerd  t"  do  nothing.  Sebituune  had  become 
jrn-itlv  inU-rcMed  in  the  ehildren  of  his  vi-itor.  \\  hrii  he  was 
living,  he  rai-ed  him~elf  and  .-aid  to  a  servant,  "Take  K<il>ert  to 
Miinkii  ["IK-  <-t  hi-  wive-J  ami  tell  her  to  pve  him  >ome  milk.'' 
Ihtx?  were  his  la.-t  words. 

The  death  <  -f  Seliit  uaiie  ajain  disirrantred  the  plan<  of  Living- 
.-t.'ije.  The  ehii-f  had  pn mi-ed  tr  p»  with  him  through  his 
ejiimtrv  and  -.!•(•(  a  .-uitaMe  -pot  f\n-  a  station.  N«-\v  il  would 
!>••  iicec--arv  to  ]'iit  ii]  \\ith  emisiderable  delav  while  a  nie.-siLTt- 
ini^ht  IK  had  {V"in  his  daughter,  win:  iliheliti-*!  t  lie  chit  !taiu-hi|>. 
Thi-  time  \\a-  li!!'-d  tij>  l>v  M'----r-.  Livini;>:oiii'  and  (  )-\M  II,  l>v 
a  tour  to  the  norihea-t,  when-,  aftei  travelling  .-onie  time,  an<l 
I' "lin-j1,  [M-rhajis,  three  hundred  inil<-^  :iepi->  a  flat  eoiintrv,  vari«-d 
ii:  n-  -uitai'-  onlv  I  iy  cii<  rni"ti-.  ant-  hills  elothed  at  intervals 
with  t'lft-t.-;  ot  iniinosa'  and  niojiain-,  benritijr  the  mark-  of  oeeA- 

•    «n:d    tl'."d-.   th«-V    t'"lind    the   Xainlie-i     in    the  centre  M(' the  eonti- 

in  ni  a  iir-'ad  and  nol»lc- looking  ri\  er.  A  mon-j  the  -\\ain |»  of 
tii.-  /.ami.-  ~i  and  th«'  ( 'ImU-  were  th.-  home-  of  tl,.-  Makololo. 
I  I-  ]-••  t>  »•  had  tli"  \\  rt-t'-hi-d  t  ra'li'  in  human  th-h  !«  !t  il-  d«  L'rad- 
isrj  -lime.  1  I,.-  'j:ii-nifii!~  ••!'  liai/'-  :md  printfd  et'ttun  i"!d  the 
-l->rv  "1  !  !;••  h'  -rrid  t  ratlie.  \\'hili-  tin-  In  art  oi'  I  ,i\  in_r-tTMie  \\a^ 
\i-ani!!f_r  !'-r  lh;-  \><  »[>\<-,  \\\<-  dftiU'ii  \\a-  appri -ai-liiu^.  Had  he 

•  n  al'i'1  Jo  ei  uiijili-te  In-  ti  i  -I  j'  •nrii'-v.  \i<-  \\  •  .11  Id  ha\  <  I  «••  n  on 
ill'-  jr-'und  •••  iv-i-l  th--  lir-;  approa'-hi--  ••)'  thi-  d«--tr"\-  r.  I  In 
MaU- .:,,!„,  Iik,.  ih-  ir  n.il.l.-  ehi,  t'.  ,!,  -p>,d  the  trade,  and  declared 
.ip  \  had  rit-ver  un!;l  then  In-ard  "I  pi.^ij.-  liciirj  l»"ii'jht  and 
-"Id.  Ind-'-d.  in  all  AtVi'-a.  il  i-  tl.'-  l'-!!ni»nv  «\'  1  ,i\  iii'j-f  >ne 
snd  "tip -r-  ;hat  th<-  |>«  r-"ii-  -"Id  ar«-  onlv  ili«-  iapti\'e-  \\iin  h  a 
M  :'  •••  in  i\  In  •!•!.  1 1  i-  a  t  Inn.:  i;nh-  aid  i't  !  hat  a  man  -•  1 !-  hi- 
i'-.\  :i  '  In Mn-n. 

T!."  d-  af  h  "!'  S.  Mil  lain-  and   tin-  iinln  all  hin-  --  ot'  tin    M  ak-  >!'>!•• 


'•l'    t  !i"     I'.—  I  -     I'll     in  i    In  <\«     i  .|'    p-  ::'••  ai  •!••    la!  "  'I  -    aln-'ll^ 

i::,  -.         I  I.-  i  '•  u  a-    in  •    In  .nn-.         |  itc    h.  y  >:<•    man    d>  !'  r- 

-   u  .  !'•    and    .-in  I'll  i-n    !"     l.ijj  land,  and    i  ••  '  urn 

i     '•!    a    d:- '  rn  !    \\  !i  n  h     mi.f  nt     iif"\  «•    a    •  >  Ii!  I  f  ot 

M.         hi    ?i,"   i  \i-cii:  I'.n   i.|'  i  hi-  r.  -..lurii.n    in     i"  m    iiis 

ir-l  'In    <    ,j..-.     A1...UJ   Aj.nl,  1  -.VJ,  In-  p!a- d   hi-  lanuly 


LOOKIM;   FOK  A  JIOMK.  ^ 

DM  board  a  homeward-bound  >hip,  and  hade  them  a  farer-ell, 
which  proved  to  be  tor  fivr  long  years.  The  di-tinel  vbjeet  in 
view  was  a  central  station  in  the  continent,  where  u  Mii.--ion 
minht  be  planted,  1'roin  which  Christian  influence  could  '•adiate 
the  entire  land.  For  such  an  end,  he  gladly  braved  tK-  forc- 
seen  hardships  and  perils  and  endured  a  long  forfeiture  of  the 
sweet  .society  of  the  dearest  friends  of' earth. 

Ho  left  the?  Cape  in  the  lumbering  \vagon  drawn  bv  ten  oxen. 
The  companions  were  "  t  wo  (  hrist  ian  Bechuanas  from  K  urn  man, 
two  Bakwaiu  men,  and  two  voting  girls  who  had  come  from 
Koloheng  as  nurses  lor  the  children,  and  were  no\v  returning.'' 
The  partv  in  such  style  would  be  a  novel  si^ht  indeed  for 
many  who  road  these  pages.  Think  of  starting  in  such  fashion 
from  New  York  to  St.  Louis;  imagine  the  strange  forests ; 
see  ever  and  anon  the  animals  which  we  look  on  with  wonder 
through  grated  Itars  walking  freelv  across  the  plains,  or  hound- 
ing through  thick  jungles.  ^  here  our  towns  and  cities  are,  let 
there  be  only  larger  or  smaller  clusters  of  queer-looking  huts  of 
mud  and  straw;  lor  the;  fashionable  belles,  and  gallants,  of  our 
communities  think  of  nude  and  duskv  beings  adorned  oniv 
with  odd-looking  ornaments  of  rude  metals.  ]>ut  we  ca:i:r>t 
Imagine  the  thing. 

Ihis  journey  of  Livingstone,  destined  to  stretch  aero--  Tie 
whole,  continent,  lay  1ii>t  along  the  centre  of  the  j)romontorv, 
inclining  a  little  eastward.  Nearer  the  capital  the  inhabitai  ts 
arc  niainlv  of'  Dutch  and  Krcneh  descent.  Africa  too  has  hivn 
an  a-ylum  from  religious  persecution,  (iod  has  allo\\-cd  his 
people  to  be  (//•//•-/;  forth  "into  all  the  world."  At'i.'i-  two 
hundred  years  on  this  shore  the  people  are  hardlv  chan^'-d  ; 
thev  are  hone.-t,  industrious  farmers,  who  have  made  a  -tt-rile 
region  moderately  fruitful,  though  to  the  eve  of  our  traveller  it 
was  uninviting.  There  were  no  trees  crowning  the  dark  brown 
hills,  and  the  plains  looked  like  the  promises  of'  a  desert.  The 
names  of  the  places  which  the  party  pa— ed  indicated  that  in 
some  other  time  there  were  buffalo  and  eland-  and  eleMiant- 
roaming  over  this  region.  Tln-v  have  fled  fro  in  the  approach 
of  civilization.  These  larmer-  devote  most  of  their  attention  to 
herds  and  flocks,  and  the  climate  i-  peculiarlv  favorable  t'i 
their  choice;  though,  alter  you  leave  the  Cape  sonic  di-tanee, 


G-}  KFFWTS    OF    TKACHIXJ. 

there  is  a  \vi<K-  U-lt  of  eoimtrv  whieh  oppo>»~.  ;m  almo.st  unsui- 
iMotmtuble  barrier  to  the  introdnetion  of  hot>e-  into  the  remoter 
ur  iviitral  di-triet-. 

tJu.M  l.etiiiv  tin-  party  reaehed  the  <  >raii'_re  rivt r,  \vhidi  rnvssitl 
their  n>ut«-  :-ome  time  hundred  mil*--,  from  < 'ape  Town,  the 
!iiiit>iii»iiv  oj  tin-  ioiiniev  wa-  n -lu-ved  1»\  a  va-t  In  nl  ot  >|>rinir- 

•  .'  .  I  • 

uiiek-,  \\  lii'-h  x'.-med  to  \>--  i!iciviii'_r  a\\a\  tr-'iu  llu-  Kalahari 
;lt---«Tt.  1  li>--«-  animal-  an-  -anl  tn  t*i-<l  -«pnic[]iin-  in  herds 
\\hieh  e\r..<i  t'.  .nv  lln>u.-:m<l  head.  SJM'I  -adin^  «>vrrva.-t  e.\- 
|>an -<•.-.,  tin  ir  <|iii\  •  rnrj  niotin!i  ainl  t"«— in^  antlrr.-  jm-M-nt  a 
view  "!'  -insular  |M-;IU!\  . 

A'-i'"--  tiic  <  >r:i!ij.',  ihcv  ji:i~-rd  ihrmiL'h  lh<-  territory  of  the 
( iri'jiia — .1  mi  \i  «1  raee,  .-pniii^;  of  Duteh  and  I  lott.-ntot  parents. 
That  taiiioij-  ciiirt'tain  who  U-hav«-il  -o  no!,!\  t.. \\ard  the  eoloiiv, 
a  <  iin-tian  man  nl  whom  iniieh  i-  -aid  in  "  M"tVat'-  Si-«-m-~  and 
I.alor-  in  South  Alri'-a."  rni'-d  ih'--i-  j»eo|ili-.  Anion-j  t!u-e 
I  iri'jiia-  th're  ar«-  inanv  1 ',. •••liiiana-  living,  and  1-oth  tin-  rai-es 
have  rii-ii\.  d  nr.i'-h  In  1:1  fit  tniin  ('hri-tian  t'-a«'hiirj.  1  >r. 
Livin-j-toni-  \\a-  a  !ii!!<-  tli-appointi d  in  their  l:\e~.  It  i~  dilli- 
eult  I"re\.n  tho-v  uh'i  -peiid  iiianv  \'<-ar-  ainouj;  the  heathen 
t'  jnd_'i-  tiiein  l-tir!\-.  It  i-  h.;rd!v  to  l.ee\j"'-ted  that  )><r-»in 
l>roii_di!  out  of'  -ii'-h  tie-gradation  ti.('hri-t  -h-aild  ininieiliat<  K 
a--:ii:i--  th'-  pr-'j'- -rt  ion»  and  -vinnn-tl'V  \\hi--h  \\  <•  e\p.et  «\" 
('hn-tian  ehara'-t.T  in  onr  land.  <  1.r:-t  tanit  v  ha-il-'iie  inueh 
!•  r  t  h-  in.  I  h--  1  ••  •  liUiina  in;--:  on  ha-  thrown  over  the  \\  hole 
•••t."!i  t!i«-  air  of  en  ih/at ion,  ami  nia-le  knninian  a  retreat 
1  oin  th«-  i;  .iih-ni-rn  lnvi.nd.  It  lonnd  the  (Jri-jiia  \\oinan 

e'-'rii-d     on!\"    \\liha     l)ll!|eh    of     ] ,  : : !  i  i .  r   -  !  I'l  1 1  Lr-    h.'l  II  ^  I II  Lr     iVolll    her 

\\ai-t.  a:id  th--  -kin  »f  an  ant--lope  thrown  over  h.  r  -h.  .nltl--r-  ; 
th--  i:.'  n  \\t-re  -in'-and  o\i|-  \\;:h  a  m:\tnre  of  tat  and  oehiv, 
\\  :fii  i.;i'\  a  !•  'A'  -'JUT'-  lli'-lie-  ..(  !i  nip  r  t'>r  an  apron  ;  ihat  \\  a-> 
t!i-:i-  '  i:di"!»-.  <  'In  i-1  ianit  \"  In-  ej^iju-d  tln-f  p«  "pi-  an-i 

i      tli'Iil      '..     a't'll-l      p    !l;' !< 'U-      llleetHIL:-     I'-   _'  11  '  a !'!  \  .          It      lia^ 
_'..'!      .i      **  I  !  •'  >  i!  il      to      !  !i.        p.  i  'p!'       \\  hi-   h      I  !(•   \       l'e-]iee(  .         Sill  i   i\  , 

t  ';•  'M/li     •  .r.    i,.  !    -  .  i!n  par-     !  li«  in    v.  it  !i    t  h>     -•  ••  i-  !  i---   a'     !,"H,,  , 

Wi     in. i'.    n  •!    •!•      .;-'    ;!,-     re-n!'-    'Ah:-h    ini--ioiiar\    ell"!'!-    hav«t 


T1IK    HK(  HUANA    J.ANGt:A<;  K.  ().-, 

s  in  Africa.  Ho  hud  at  last  completed  tin-  tran.-lation  of 
tin.-  Bible  into  the  language  of  the  liechuauas,  and  wa->  i-arrving 
it  throii'di  the.  pros.  lie  found  no  written  laninuurr  to  benin 

O  I 

his  undertaking  with;  he  had  fir.-t  {»  produce,  that,  then 
accomplish  the  translation.  The  work  reveal-,  something  of 
uncommon  interest.  Tins  language  posse.-ses  wonderful  copi- 
ousness,  and  vet  provides  fbr  the  expression  of  tin-  I'miati  n<  li 
in  fewer  words  than  the(ireek  Septuagint,  und  makes  a  much 
smaller  volume  than  our  Kuglish  ver.-ion. 

During  the  delay  at  Kurumau  they  were  surpri.-ed  and 
grieved  bv  the  coming  of  the  wife  of  Sechele,  reporting  an  attack 
of  the  Boers  on  the  Bakwains,  in  which  they  fully  gratified 
their  cruelty  and  eagerness  lor  plunder,  and  vented  a  little  of 
their  rage  against  the  missionary  work  by  robbing  the  hou.-e  of 
Dr.  Livingstone. 

This  outrage  of  the  Boers  raised  a  new  barrier.  It  had  so 
terrified  the  Bakwains  that  not  one  could  be  found  who  would 
risk  himself  in  the  company  of  Livingstone  ;  for  besides  their 
ci  uelties,  the  Boers  had  made  furious  threats  against  the  man 
\\  horn  they  charged  with  having  taught  the  Bakwains  to  kill 
tl.em.  Onlv  after  considerable  loss  of  time  and  much  searching 
!>•  •  succeeded  in  finding  three  servants,  who  he  describes  as 
b'ing  "the  worst  possible  specimens  of  those  who  imbibe  the 
v.ees  without  the  virtues  of  the  Europeans. "  These,  with  a 
c.'lored  man  named  (Jeorge  Fleming,  who  was  induced  to  Lro 
v.ith  him,  made  it  possible  to  advance,  and  he  left  Kuruman  on 
t.'ie  l20th  ot'  November,  and  skirted  along  the  Kalahari  as  be- 
fore. This  time  there  was  an  abundant  crop  of'  watermelons. 
This  being  the  season  just  preceding  the  winter  rains,  the 
travellers  were  subjected  to  the  peeuliarlv  hot  wind.-  of'  the 
desert,  which  they  escaped  in  former  travels.  The  partv  reached 
the  alllicted  town  of  Sechele  on  the  last  day  of  IN-~)±  X< 
wonder  that  the  heart  of'  Livingstone  was  grieved  with  the 
spectacle.  Never  had  he  witne-sed  one  so  pitiable.  The 
people  were  plunged  in  absolute  mi.-erv.  Little  more  could  IT 
done  than  to  give  ihriu  the  svm])athy  of'  his  full  heart.  These 
were  the  people  amoim  whom  he  had  labored  fir.-t.  I  Fe  had 
lived  in  their  midst.  He  had  left  them  on'.v  when  the  inter- 
ference of  the  Boers  rendered  hi.-  work  there  enuiviv  iimmicti- 


6f>  LlnNS    AND    .-Klil'KNTS. 

ruble.  Sorrowfully  etiou-jh  In-  left  them  to  fo!lo\v  the  ilntv 
\\hieh  calltil^hitu  a^ain  int«>  the  wiMerne--.  lit-  found  the 
well-  at  iJoatlanatna  ami  LOJM-JM'  all  dry,  and  |irfsse<l  on  to 
Ma-hii".  \\liefe  tin-re  \va-  delieioii-  \\ater.  TlnTe  i-  little  \\  hi  -h 
can  iiit<  T' -'.  a  traveller  \\ln-n  everv  -t<|>  In-  takes  i-  taken  M» 
atiMoii-!v  ;  l.iit  tin-  eoiuitrv  in>m  Kuruinan  i-  t iir»n^iii^  \\itii 
all  th"-e  f>iv-i  iiion-!'  r-  \\hieh  have  made  the  continent  <>n»>  ol 
unti'l  rl'nl  intcrc-t.  Il\  the  Y«Tv  ii.iuitain  <-t'  LOJH  |>c  a  lion»-» 
olio-  -j>ran^  njioii  tin-  IIOPM-  i»f  Mr.  (  )-\vcll,  \\hit,  liilliiiL:  to  the 
irr-'ini'l,  \\:is  oiilv  .-aviil  liv  hi-  lailhtiil  d"^-.  The  livrna 
jT..\\l-  ainoii-j  the  f.  .|-i-t>;  the  l.iitlalo,  t  he  (  lej.haiit ,  the  u:iratl'e, 
tiie  /.-lira,  the  tijer.  all  are  IM-P-.  All  al-oiit  Ma- hue  ^reai 
liiiiuUr~  of  iniee  traee  their  .-u!ii. -rram  an  iioiii«>,  or  rai-e  the 
(nM-l...  -kin^  little  ha\eiH-k-t  a-j;ain-t  the  iiidrmriit  .-ea-mi. 

<  )<•.  a-i"iiallv  a~  thev  \\.-nt  they  t'"iuul  a  lieaiit  il'nl  |orii,i.-«> 
whi'--  hanl  ~h-  1!  i~  it-  >',-iire  ea-lle  e\en  uii'K T  the  teeth  ol'  the 
li»n,  ami  a  l»i'i  \»r  eovet.-iii-ne—  to  all  \vho  lovt-  the  hrailtifui 
ornament-  \\hieh  thev  atlonl. 

All  aln.nt  Ma-hne  there  are  ^reat  iiiimli-r-  of  -er|M-nts. 
The>e  arc  a— 'wiatetl  ine\erv  mind  \sith  the\irv  \\i'r<l  AlViea. 
1  he  -a\  iir_',  "  l-'ainiliarit  v  lire,  il-  contein|it,"  ajijilte-  to  them. 
A  re-iil.  m-e  in  tin-  ei.imtrv  ovi-rei'ine-  that  terror  \\hieh  the-e 
^rli«l:n_r,  •  "i  I  :n_r  eiiemie-  in -pi  re  in  ri-jii  .n-  u  IK  re  t  ln\  are  ,-elilnin 
.-.en.  Tin  \  ar--<l':ith  "ii  rat-.  T<>  kill  the  rat-  i-  t"  \»-  free  of 
riiuke,.  'I'hei-e  a  i-i!  i-  a  hnii-eh'  >l<\  ti'ea-ni'e.  S. 'ine  of  t  he.-e 

I'eplil.--      al'e      fearfllllv      V'-nnlll' >H-.  I   he     |>lf;ikho]tl      I-     a     >j»ee|e> 

]••  euliar!  /  -".  Thi  \  ap-  -"metiine-  ei^hl  or  ten  tei-t  \«i\^  ;  ami 
«  vi  n  v.  if  n  il-  IP  a'l  ha-  1"  en  eiil  oil',  t  he  la  ML'-  have  In -en  known 
t«.  ili-iil  i-'iar  |H.i-. ,n  I'M-  h"iir-.  Th--  no^o-  put  --•  'lie,  <  >r  .-•  rp>  nt 
of  a  kiM,  i-  a  -'>rt  of  (.nll'-aiMer  \\hi--h  imitale-  \\ith  \\  "if  1.  rt'nl 
i  \  a.  • ; ..  --  the  1  ,'i  at  iif_r  of  that  animal  ;  and.  niujiie-i  loiiaMs  ,  !  he 
n  ;,!!:'••  -I  !•!•!.  the  \\  j,  k.-d,  _-la--\  eve-.,  t  he  <lar!  !if_r  Imi-tii  ••!'  the 

ii. j  i!'-'l!a(e»l    to     -1|'    '.-I     \  efV     -el'loll-      I'elleet  |i  i||-     o[|     di;i;!l 


f..ni     in    th;-    '|oMi'iii\'     (oiinil     lli'-     1  iaiiian_''.\  a!o    cluil 
;.  u'.ir!\     friemlly.         \  !!    of   th.  -e    I ;.  ,-hn  ma    tri!..  - 
».ni!  it    . .;'  t  ii,-    /.  ,ui!.-  -i    j.raet  i.  e    i •-.]••  11:11. -.-.oti,  am  I    !  IP     ei-n  mi  iiiv 
•-  .1".  i.de.  1    u  it  h      !:;/';  !.tr  -•  \  -  i  i!  !•--.       'I  !••     \  min/    ;.'•  -n!  le:a.  n  a:    • 
.ir  i-     '••!   !o  -«\.P    •,'.  hini.-u.'-,   uhi.-h    le<i\<     llnir    l.aek-    -iarrfl 


Mil.    (JOIIDOX    <TMMIN<;s.  (,7 

mid  seamed  with  fearful  wounds  ;  to  which  ordeal  they  mu-t  add 
th(;  exploit  of  killing  an  hippopotamus  before  thcv  are  called 
men  and  permitted  to  marry  a  will-.  Then-  may  IK-  a  worthy 
les-:oii  in  this  fi>r  more  enlightened  people.;  for  trnlv  there  can 
hardlv  In;  fitness  jl»r  the  responsibilities  of  lilc  before  our  i-  in 
some  \\'i\v  trained  to  eudure,  or  dares  to  do.  Among  the-o 
tribes  juiothcr  singular  fact  is,  that  no  one  knows  his  age,  but 
measures  his  life  onlv  by  the  initiations  into  the  national  rite- 
which  he  ha.s  wit  nosed. 

Th^  Bamnngwato  hills,  in  whose  shadow  the  party  passed 
nlong,  rising  nearly  a  thousand  feet  ahoye  the  plain— vast 
masses  of  black  basalt — are  scarred  and  split  and  everywhere 
present  the  traces  of  volcanic  action.  The  soil  lying  in  the  in- 
terstices relieves  the  barrenness  of  the  lava  marks  with  pleasant 
foliage.  All  along  were  seen  the  chinks  and  cavities  formed 
by  the  broken  masses,  which,  slipping  down,  have  caught  and 
hang  piled  against  each  other,  forming  wild  refuges  tor  the 
natives  in  time  of  war. 

Twenty  miles  beyond  the  Bamangwato  the  p:irtv  reached  Mr. 
Cummings'  farthest  station  north.  This  gentleman  outranked, 
by  far,  all  hunters  in  Africa,  and  manv  a  wild  and  thrilling 
story  is  in  his  book,  which  has  aroused  the  Ximrod  spirit  in  the 
breast  of  youth.  But  the  chase  along  our  meadows  and  river 
banks  of  the  bounding  buck  or  cunning  fox  is  a  poor  prepara- 
tion lor  the  terrific  charge  of  an  infuriated  elephant:  shrieking 
like  a  steam-whistle,  his  proboscis  high  in  air,  hi-  divad-in- 
spiring  tusks  gleaming  awfnllv,  his  enormous  tread  -baking  the 
earth,  he  rushes  on,  trampling  tinder  loot  every  onpo-iti"-  thiii"-: 

:          II 

he  must  have  nerve  who  stands,  and  skill  who  escapes. 

Beyond  Letlachi  they  entered  on  a  plain,  where,  lor  sixtv 
miles,  there  was  no  water.  Feeding  here  and  there  were 
seen  vast  herds  of  ( 'and-,  and  frei|iientlv  they  saw  the  sillv 
ostrieh.  Hardly  any  occupant  of  these  wild-  en^au'es  a  deeper 
interest.  Its  very  l!>lly  is  entertaining:  the  travc'ller  ]>itie-  and 
laughs,  to  see  the  creature,  though  fully  a  mile  away,  in  extreme 
alarm  rushing  straight  toward  him.  The  poor  bird  seems  to 
suspect  that  every  passer-by  is  trying  to  circumvent  him.  and  so 
invariably  seeks  safety  by  rushing  aero--  the  path,  fivi[i:ently 
only  a  few  yards  or  rods  before  the  oxen.  With  enormous 


»N  \VI:F:I«  m:i>  K;NOHAN<  K. 

-tridts  and  a-toni-hin.:  rapidity  of  motion,  it  rival-  the  fUvtost 
hor>e-  in  it-  ra<-e  l\>r  life,  while  it-  feet  an-  u-ed  with  retnark::h!e 
dexuriiv  in  warding  oil'  the  do--.  It-  -ph-ndid  coat  of  j^l«>—  -\- 
l>laek,  ami  white-tipjM-d  \\m_r-.  tla-h  in  tin-  siin»ljint',  a.-  it  run-. 
with  jKvuIiar  Ix-.nitv.  It-  «j;neh  and  tar-n-arhin^  vt-ion  con-ti- 
tute-Y  thi-  -iir_ru!ar  individual  tin-  -entinel  of  the  plains,  ami  i:.- 
tiiiu-iv  alarm  i-  the  -i'_riial  i«r  a  ^t-m-nil  -tatnjM-dc  of  all  tin- 
pinii  in  si'_r'.t. 

.MH.U:  tic-  \\cll-  ..f  M..;lat-a  an-  cln-t.T.  <1  th«-  homes  of 
liiiniepm-  I'r.ikalahari,  \\hit,  though  kindlv  di-j>"-.  !.  and  \\illini; 
ciioii_-h  to  li.  ar  the  mi—  ionarv,  \ven-  vet  -n  \\reieln  dl\  ignorant 
ami  d-  _Taded,  -<i  di'iven  liv  the  want-  of  th«-ir  j..  «  .r  l.«.dic  -.  th:.t 
Livirrj-tone  \\:;~  e  ..mji.-M.-d  to  lail  liaek  onlv  on  ill.  -reat  d.  - 
-i-_rii-  «>f  infinite  eonipa-.-ion  :md  -overei^n  jjraee  f<>r  -ii|>jiort  n 
h.-  lali'-r-  anioii'j-  ihi-;n;  rej>eatedlv,  a-  he  \va-  in  tin  ir  mid-  1, 
hardiv  an  a|»|»r«-«'ial»l«'  (•!!<•(•(  \\a~  r»lKcrve«l.  I'  \\a-  a!nt<  -t 
imj»o--il'l-'  l'  -r  t  iie-.-  jn  «or  ereat'ire-  t»  re-train  their  amii-eim  it 
when  h'-  \\oiild  kliet-l  down  to  ]»rav.  'I  In  v  -a\\  ii"  (Jod.  aid 
the  idea  "t  talkm  '  to  ;ui  nn-e.-n  l»eiiiLr  ^\'a-  ridii-nloti-  I"  ther  '. 
>..:;ie  i.t'  t!i.  -e  trii).--  -re  al-o|iitelv  \\  a  n  t  i  !  i  •_'  in  the  rein..!,  t 
uj'j»ro:u-h'  -  !••  nni-ie,  and  are  \\i!<l  \\itli  !aiiL'ht<  r  if  -in-jiirj-  - 

l.'-J'in      ill     th'   ir     |>re-ep.ee.         Yet      tht-e     l,i-i||'_r-      U-iieVe     in    a    <  iod. 

I-  it  iti-tinef,  .if  i'|.-  tuition  i.f  tin    Sjiirit    •!'  the  Ili_'!ie-r,  \\hieh 

l!l-l!'i;e!-        t!|e|||      t'>       ]'•'.:]'      eVel'V       |lle\  [illeal'le       (  ii  -i   C'T<   IK  e      to      a 

Supreme  ]'••  in^  '.'  'llpv  l.i  lieve  that  th.-re  i-  a  (  J<"1  :  tln-v  »lo  n<.t 
i;;i<  lei  -•:,;,,]  that  lh  \  Inav  aj>j>roaeh  him.  1  lie  in  I--K  uiarie- 
ani'-nj  th'-  1'.'  ehnana  tri!.,  -  and  th"  <  'atlV-  -  have  jl.iind  no  idol-, 
i:«  li'i-  of  \\  <  'i'-  hi,  no  raver  of  anv  --ort  .  1  he  idea  <  >t  an 


ir  .-!••(  MIL'  \\i:h  t  he  -!i'dite-t   re-ard  f"f  it. 
-.-     \:  .  ".       the     'riiirn^-    .'t'   I.i\  in-j-i"lie     hiv    !"\\ard 

-        -i;.       dry'     I...1       ef      the        \\  .  ,  !,,.],,,.  Thi-        1-       the 

'.*   !••;,-    :i'ain.:uid    •  \    rv  i^iiMtain    remind-    tin.- 

•!..    ;'.  i.      f.i  *:ii.:-tone    jvrorl-    tli.it    "ii   om   of  tin* 

:   [!,'-  t  r  ;  •  '!;'!•'    v.  a-  a  i-ahe  •  •!'  -a't   an   ;n-  ii  and 

:•,  '!..    -I  -    ..f  thi-  de-,  rt,  are  ]:nv,.  (1,,,-K-  of 
1  ia'".aii/  wati  •.        I  lie  rielj 


WANT    AND    TKXDKUNI-XS.  C'.\ 

curd  produced  from  the  milk  of  goats  is  held  in  high  favor,  a 
fit  dish  lor  kin<rs  indeed;  for  even  among  these  i r  heathen, 

O  ™  *  / 

on  tins  dead  level,  as  \ve  mav  think,  of  human  nature,  there 
are  distinctions,  marked  l>v  matters  as  trilling  as  ever  serve  f<i 
define  the  borders  of  classes  in  civili/.ed  society.  T!i<-  rich 
master  of  a  flock  of  these  goats,  rejoicing  in  his  palatable  di-h 
of  curd-porridge,  is  heard  to  sav  scorn  fill  I  v  of  his  poor  neighbor., 
''  he  is  a  water-porridge  man/'  Thev  are  no  better  than  eivil- 
i/ed  people  in  this  matter;  and  with  all  our  gifts,  \ve  can  never 
claim  to  have  planted  the  spirit  of  ari.-tocracv  even  in  Africa. 
It.  is  there  now,  heathendom  though  it  he,  as  night. 

At  Xchokotsa  the  partv  found  worse  for  had.  Thev  left  salt 
and  purgative  waters  at  Orapa;  to  turn  again  from  a  tilthur 
draught,  to  pause  ;>t  Xchokotsa  wells,  was  to  mock  the  thir-t 
their  hitter,  nitrate  waters  could  not  quench.  At  Koobe  mat- 
ters wen1  hardlv  more  promising;  but  it  was  onlv  a  promise, 
and  might  prove  worthy.  It  \vas  u  drearv  picture.  There  is 
romance  in  it  viewed  from  our  ensv  chairs;  but  a  wide  iLt 
country,  over  which  a  whih1  sultry  glare  spreads,  relieved  onK' 
by  herds  of  scorched  zebras  and  gnu-,  with  here  and  thei\  a 
thirsty  bufl'alo  standing  with  famished  gaxc  bent  toward  t'ic 
wells,  which  oiler  to  them  onlv  mud — the  ree"iit  wallow  of  a 
huge  rhinoceros — it  is  hardlv  a  landscape  to  charm  an  cve- 
witne-s  whose  supply  of  water  is  spent.  The  well  at  Koobe 
was  that  rhinoceros  wallow.  Livingstone  paused  there  fbr 
water  for  men  and  oxen,  and  looked  about  on  that  withered, 
sweltering  scene.  They  could  hardlv  clear  a  space  in  the  dirtv 
mortar  in  which  the  oo/iiiLC  beverage  mi^lit  be  culleeted. 
And  there  \rcre  some  days  }<*<t  1'rom  their  progress  in  waiting: 
on  this  slow  fountain,  before  the  o\<  n  could  be  satiated. 

Some  men  would  have  what  thev  mi^'ht  have  calli'd  iitv  sj»ort 
shooting  the  anim  .Is,  \vho<i>  thir-t — ^ivat'T  than  their  timid;'v 
—held  them  close  about  the  fascinating  -jmt.  ]',ut  Li\-inu'-'oni 
wa-  no  hunter.  lie  was  a  nobler  tvpe  ol'  man.  There  wa-  t  » 
much  of  the  spirit  of  Him  \vho  ^uidcth  the  sparrow's  win^-  and 
lep'deth  the  ravens  to  have  plea-ure  in  killing  anything.  II'.- 
did  -lot  scruple  to  shoot  an  animal  for  fbod,  but  to  kill  tlierr. 
<"'!•  the  sport — he  would  not.  The  kindne^  of  l\\<  h>-at\  was 
manifested  in  the  tender  sympathy  which  refused  even  to  pro- 


70  M'tXVANA    Ti:F.r>. 

vi'li-  niitl'il  l<«il  li\-  taking  a<l\  antaj.-  of  tin-  tl.  -j><  ralo  tam'-m-i 
of  tin-  In-pl-  \vhi.-h  -j-nlnTi-'l  in  i  a-v  ran_M-  ..f  tin-  \\i-ll.  It 
on.: lit  to  !»•  so  a!\vav-.  Wh.M-v  r  ;_'n.--  f'i'.li  iii  i-ivili/ril 
cr  In-atin-n  lain!-  t->  n-j>r.  -i  n;  < 'hri-t  in  pp-«-n(iii;_r  hi-  1:0- JM  1 
outrht  t««  U-  aniniat'-'l  \\i;h  hi-  \\oiuli-rfiil  -piri;  ot'  t.-mlcrm--. 
It  i-  in -I  im  an  to  1»-  toii«-!n  1  ! .  y  tin-  \\—  •-  of  a  .!••_;.  It  i-  ina-- 
Iiaiiiliioii-  to  p'-pn-t  tin-  In  !j>!t  --in--  of  a  v,..r;a. 

<^uit:inur   thi-   -•  <  m-,  tin-   par;  v  pr.  •— •  <1   iii>rth\vanl  ai-p>-<   tin- 
•jT'-at    Nt'.M  t\\i-  pan,  am!    n -;••«!    uiult-r  tin- >haili-   of  mn1  of  th<- 

an -a  of  i-a!--aiV"U-  t  ilia,  \\  i:h  it-  -Si^li!    rat  p-  :  of  -nil.      Tin-  t  r-  •«• 

iimlt;-N\h 1. ram-in-    tln\-  r- •-:•  -I.  t hn •«•    f- ••  t    iVoin  tin-  -i-ouml, 

\va-  i  i.:'i.' \-ii\'.-  I'-- I  in  cirfiunti  n  nrr.  In  all  tin-  f"i  -1!-  ami 
plain-  of  tin-  ront  tin-lit  iioihimj  cijual-  tin-  \vomli  r  in!  \  ital  i!\  of 
tin  -<•  lm>\\ana  in-.--.  I  .IN  imj-tom-  ilf'lan-il  that  In-  "\\onlil 
l-a'-I-.  o!n-  o{'  tin  in  a_'aii.-;  a  tlo/.-u  ll-. ..!-."  It  <!...-iio!  \;.'.'l 
it-  lift-  to  tin-  ill '"iv  \\ithinor  tin-  iniun.  -  \-.  .;  !,oin .  It  ^ro\\- 
on  ami  \vt-ar-  it  -  iT"\vn  oi  !.  .h;i  jt-  a-  protnll  v  \\  In  n  t  In-  i -a  pa.  ".of* 
<-i'.'.!  :••-  v.  ;; !.  :n  o'l',  r  vh.  her  ;.>  n..-n  ami  l»  a-t  -  a-  v,  ln-n  H  -  In  a!  I 
\va-  linn  ami  Inaithlnl.  It  ina\J  ha\.-  it-  ntu  ..('  l.ai'u  -trip|"«' 
»>}]'  vi  ar  1''.  v-ir,  urn!  \-iarl>v  \iarit  -"im -In-u  v. .  a\  .  -  ano'.ln  •• 
co'it  ;t:i.i  ",  r..p-  if  a':i-\s.  '1  h>-  llann  -  i;,av  t\\nn-  al'oiil  r. 

ami    -«ar    a:.«l    li!.n-!.<-n    r  :    it    \\ill    m-t    '!:.'.       I  >i\    Li\  nnj-ton»' 

ti-iil',.-  thi!  In-  -a'.V  oin-ulllcll  colil  ilill«-il  -J 1'"  v.  1 11 LT  "1  hll^'.il, 
i-v.  :i  :.:':•!•  it  ha-1  U  •  n  -  lit  ilov,  n,  \\  hi!.-  it  !;;v  .-'.  r.  ;.•!..-.  1  upon  tin- 
•.'p.uml.  Tii'i'-  i-  onl\  on.-  thimj-  t"  1>«-  ilop.,-  \\  !i  h  t  In  -in  ;  that 
'I'!;--  na:i\.-  -av.  t!..-  "  lijhtnimj-  hati-it," 
.<•  f  iV'-r  of  ii  -  -had'-. 

:\:  j'li-.-.    t  ra\  i-liinj;    a    f.  \v    inin-.    tin-    part\' 
.-.  ! !•;•'•     th'-     i:i'  \  iiai  •}••     1'iii-hlmn     \M  n-    loillnl 

i:  .. -;.-    in  i-\.  !-v    P  -\<-  <  '.     l!ian   tin  n    naim  -aw'  - 
i:!    -.;,  uj.o    I-.-..-    !o    !;<.,,  ami   .l.-Tiu-   i,. 

••     i     t'i  '•  m!-    "   i'l-t     \  '  i  ."    ::!'  in  'I1J  h     tin  '•     !''     <  'J. 

•Hi''.  ,  \}'  i",  -    al'ilinlan! !  v    '.',  ith    v.  at<  :   ;    t  h.i! 

I  •    ii,'  n  -taml    t'-r  i-oiira'_'i-oi;-.  I  ••  .-an  •- 

1'  . '  ii     .•.  h<  ri-    MI    A  !  i  i'  a    1 1  >    iii'      nat  i  \  •  - 

i;.    h  i:-:  inj   a-  i-  <!i-pia\  •  •!    !>-.    t!i.  ir  i-i\  il- 


MlP.VHilir    VIMTOK.  71 

I/ed  visitors.  The  Bushmen  arc  more  expert  in  handling  their 
peculiar  weapons,  because  they  have  had  long  training;  but  if 
it  is  a  question  of  eoolntss,  of  quietly  approaching  a  fre.-h 
strong  elephant,  the  eivili/ed  man  alwavs  a.-tonishe-  the  native 
hv  his  apparent  recklessness.  Indeed,  it  seems  to  hi-  the  t<  -ti- 
luonv  of  historv  that  pure  courage  is  in  the  ratio  of  moral 
'.•ulture.  Animals  lower  than  man,  and  savage  men,  mav  1*; 
ferocious ;  eivili/ed  man  presents  the  nohlest  models  of  courage. 
Spending  a  Sunday  at  Maila,  our  party  passed  on,  to  be  in- 
vigorated hv  the  freshness  ami  lii'efulness  at  I'nku.  \\  <•  mav 
imagine,  if  we  can,  the  relief.  For  the  dreary  barrenness  of 
Koobe,  there  were  now  spread  all  around  the  tall  gr.>s  waving 
in  the  bree/es  like  fields  o''  golden  grain,  all  the  various  flowers 
blooming  splendidly,  and  c'Verywhen;  the  twittering-  ol'  bird- 
kept  memorial  of  the  rain  which  had  revived  the  scene;  while 
the  game,  independent  of  mean  wells,  keeping  a  goo.]  di.-tancc, 
despised  the  harmless  guns  of  the  invader.  Surclv  it  is  alino.-t 
worth  an  experience  in  the  desert  to  have  the  surprise  and  de- 
light of  coming  again  to  a  world  of  life  and  beauty  and  jov.  But 
it  was  hot.  On  the  ground  the  thermometer  marked  lii-V! 
The  water,  on  the  surface,  stood  at  1<>O  ;  dipped  from  the  bot- 
tom, it  was  pleasant.  This  v:as  in  March,  is.").0,.  Livingstone 
had  left  Kuruman  in  November,  and  was  now  some  six  hundred 
miles  on  his  journey,  though  p:t--!ng  mainly  through  familiar 
places.  Passing  on  through  a  den-",  bu>hv  tra<-t,  euttin::  their 
way  with  axes,  the  party  wen-  suddenlv  arrested  bv  an  cneniv 
ever  lurking  on  the  ibot>teps  of  travellers  pas-iii'j  through  this 
region:  lour  of  the  party  were  down  with  lever,  which,  in  three 
ilays,  had  sei/ed  every  one  of  the  party  except  one  J>akwain  and 
Or.  Living-tone.  While  lying  in  tin-  j>lace  nur-inLr  the  sick, 
one  night  a  hyena  appeared  in  the  hi^h  gru--.  and  frightened 
the  oxen  so  terribly  that  everv  one  of  them  ru-hcd  a\vav  into 
the  forests.  Tlu>  trusty  -ervant  had  followed  them,  and  after  an 
absence  of  several  days,  with  no  other  guide  than  his  in-tinct, 
came  driving  up  the  whole  herd  of  1'ortv  oxen.  The  progress 
now,  burdened  with  the  >i<-k  atxl  annoved  with  the  convales- 
cent, obliged  to  cut  a  wav  through  the  clo>elv  Wedded  live.-,  be 

came  exeeedin^lv  laborious;   l)ut  ti'ood  health  backed  the   ncver- 
fiinching  spirit  of  Livingstone.     They  were  in  the  l^th  degret>  oi 
5 


latitude.  The  forest.-  In-earne  more  and  nioiv  formidable.  The 
privilfgv  of  almost  every  -tep  mn-t  l>e  paid  fur  by  valiant  ser- 
viiv  \\illi  tin-  axe.  The  mail  Fleming  \\a-  van<mi:-hed,  and 
<-oiild  pi  n<>  farther.  Livingstone  pre.-.-eil  on.  The  In  aw  rains 
hail  loaded  th<-  thick  (ullage  overhead,  and  tin-  blows  <>f  the  a\e 
brought  a  continual  shower-bath. 

Attain  they  \veiv  subje»-t«-d  p>  the  anii<>yan<-c  nf'a  -taiujx-dr  •>!' 
tin-  oxen  ;  tin-  time  a  li"ii  did  tin-  mi.-ehi<-f.  The  li<>!>  in  the 
re'jinii  through  which  the  j«artv  \va~  im\\  pa---iir^  are  held  in 
;-h«-<-k  l»y  the  jxu-H.iied  aiTi>\\-  !•!'  tin-  r>n-hm<  it.  A-  tin-  ]M»i-<m 
is  referred  tn  frequently,  it  ni:iv  |M.  intei-f-tin^  i'nr  tin-  reader  t« 
kii-i\v  that  it  i-  "tin-  enirai!-  "('  the  caterpillar  ealled  N'n^'a 
t!ie  r»u~hnie;i  -.jii.  <•/'•  ..tit  thi -e,  and  jilaee  them  all  annnid  th- 
iM.tt'.m  I't'th-  liarii,  :uid  a!!'  >\v  th'-ia  tn  drv  in  tin  ~un.  Tl  • 
rtl'eet  nt'  thi-  j."i-";i  "ii  nn n  :n:d  I »  a-t-  i-  alike  terril'le.  drivii.^ 
them  t'ia  |iertl-et  iVen/v.  The  liu-hmen  t"ld  I  >i.  Li\  iiiLr-'"i'«' 
rlieii-  \\a\-  <>t'  enrin-_r  t'lii-  p..i-..M  \\a>  tn  -j;i\e  the  \\i.iinde«l  in:  " 
the  c-iiterpillar  it-'-lf,  mi\'d  \\ilh  fat,  -a\  iiiLr.  the  \'-\\a  \\aii  t 
fit,  and  uheii  it  d"'-  in  it  !;n.l  it  in  the  Imdv  kill-  tlie  mai  . 
\ve  ^i\.'  i;  \\hat  it  \\ant-.  and  it  i-  ec.nt'-nt.  p..--i!tl\  the. 
di-pi-«d  r.ii-hmen  mav  di-]nite  the  h"iiei'\'i  |nr  the  ^lnr\  i," 
I  Ium<e<ip:ithv. 

At  !«n_f'h  tiiev  eanie  t'i  the  lir-t  lull  tln\  had  -i ••  n  -im-e 
leaving  tin-  li»inaii^\v:iti>.  It  \\a-  N';_'\\a.  'I  h-  \  h.-n!  ct fueled 
aen>--  ijuile  three  hnndred  mill-  •  •!'  di-t  n  --iirj  !\  tlat  <-"iin!i-\, 
i'\ehaie:in-j  <  'ii!\  alni"-t  in~iltli  ralile  d« -ert*  \'<  >r  alnin-l  iinpa--a- 
!•!••  f"i-'  -t-.  ea-  h  in  turn  i-nlv  t\\«i  nf  thn-e  timi-  ri-lre-he,l  li\ 
anvthinj-  like  lieaiit\".  II"'.'.  j"Vnii-K  in-\vthe  hen.  ]..i.ke.i  d..\\n 


!<aiitift:!    -IP-am   uu-  ll«'U  inj-    al-'iiLT    ''"     L'lade.  aef .--   \\hi'h   lh« 
-!  n.  ;..••,-  .  .f  -tat-  !v  tree-  b!.-nd-  d  :    -jim-  and  /ebra-  and  ant-  !•  \»  ~ 

••I !     -ri/in-j     on     t!ie     -t;-a !i-_"  r-  ;    a     -|>l-i;d;d    \\hit.-     rhin«>e.p- 

i!]..  •,-.  d     a-  !•••--     the     -laj--     indilV' n-nt!\     a-    a    1. •!••!.    \\hd-      da:., 
\  i-a  -d   1-M?1  >'...-   -•..,„]   :»I...Mt  'I'll.  t!\    nnd.  r  the  tr.  •  -.       Th.    >ab 

1 

b.-.th    -      n.'d    !••    1"     I.,  j.t    l\    nature,  all   ua--o    pia'-'fnl.      1  h- v 
«.r,    n.,       I!'.  r-i',!v  --irr.. uiid'd   v.ith  \\ild  bea-t- ;    thefarol    tl,.- 

!i-  n   -\  i-  •  -.n'int.a!'\    in   :  h.-ir  •   ir-  :    1. \> » -   and   t  h-    ..riralVe  \\I-IT 

n     ']>;\         '!!.••     \\  i!d'  rn- --     ^  a-     fal,    I'M'     a-     th«v 
-a: i..-   i:  "••-•    a-d     in"''-     ''.-.iMti'M!.       '!!P     ''P-n     L'ra--. 


LINYAXTI  o.v  THK  CIIOHK.  7  i 

higher  than  the  wagons;  the  splendid  vines,  hanging  richly  and 
gracefully  among  the  trees,  us  it'  arranged  l>y — they  were 
arranged  by  the  hand  of  (Jod  !  Small  rivers  crossed  their  way 
continually. 

When  he  reached  the  Sanshnreh,  he  met  trouble  enough  t<> 
dishearten  any  ordinary  man.  He  was  an  extraordinary  man. 
This  new  barrier  met  them  in  latitude  I8r'  -1'  27"  S.,  longitude 
24°  (V  20"  K.  In  vain  they  sought  a  ford;  they  sought  caM 
and  west ;  everywhere  the  same  deep  flood  met  them  as  they 
reached  the  terminus  of  the  rank  undergrowth  through  which 
they  were  splashing  in  water  from  ankle-deep  to  the  arm-pits. 
Everywhere  the  river  was  broad  and  deep  ;  everywhere  thep* 
was  a  wall  of  reeds  resisting  its  approach  through  an  innndatf  .1 
swamp.  Heartily  wearied,  the  bold  explorer,  with  a  sing1  e 
companion,  pushed  out  a  small  boat  upon  the  stream,  an  1, 
leaving  the  wagons,  went  floating  down  the  stream  until  be 
dropped  among  the  astonished  inhabitants  of  a  Makololo  toM  u 
like  one  from  the  clouds.  In  the  boat  he  had  passed  the  confluent  « 
of  the  river,  and  was  now  on  the  western  bank  of  the  C'hobe,  in  tl  e 
land  of  friends.  By  the  kindness  of  these  Makololo  of  Morem;, 
they  were  assisted  to  bring  the  oxen  and  wagons  across.  This 
brought  them  almost  upon  the  route  of  ISol.  It  was  now  th? 
2.'>d  of  May,  1853.  They  were  at  Linyanti,  the  capital  of  tie 
Makololo  region,  among  the  people  of  Sebituane. 


CHAPTER    I  V. 

MM:  WITK-  WITH   -KKKi.irrr. 

Arrival    ni    I.iny:uiti        M:ik"!  Th.  ir    l'.-!i.-y      W.  l,-..m.-    t..    I.ivin^tone— 

h«-k.  i-  til       Aim. Ill     H...j'i:.ii.-\        \l.i   <:.••.  I,  .*.  in.  -'s     iMh.'iiiU        1 . ,  MII--I. -In-     f.^ 

fW»  t»  Tr.i-i.-      lli«  l.al-.r-  — \!.i->    :    .  .  H,  ..- .  :  I1,.  ;ui!  >       M  .vh!  n.. -  -     .hi-:.,-,- 
l.iviiu'-t"'!'  '-  -I    'iru.-\   t-.t!,-    I:.i    •'-<•      'II,.-    S.il    :il..n,-  tl,.-  <   ii..i..-      Ti,.-   I'irly 

K.M.  j.U    .!,,        -.-W.l.-ttl         I. .-.---       (..I],.-        Illli-       .ilrl        II.,!-         I'!..-       I.,-,  llllll.yc    - 

AI..IIH-'  .L'-.U!  K.i!  •;..•  i  '1  !L-  >j-l.  n.li'i  I;n.-r  Hi.-  M.ikal.ik.i  'I  i..  i.,:itr:i-t 
-  Catt!.-  .11. •!  \\.ir  l:.i|,;  i-  I'.iiar.i.-i-  1.,!!-  \..  M-iiiuu.  lit  -  in  Af- i,  :i  I  h.- 
U:ir->t-x'  \'.i'!--\  1'i-rtility  \|..ur,-i-  I'lii.i'-liiii'-iit  \\  .,r  \\.t'..j  'I!,.-  lir-t 
\M,:i.  •  M.ii,  !  .  t:..  I..-.  -l..i  N..  j.la.-r  f.,r:i  M  i^i..,,  I!,.-  tt  ,M. -I  ,.f  all  I.in- 

\.lHll      Jljilili         1    "f      I.".l!l'i.l        >-'f|..lln       Tll'-IU'ill-         !!•  -"!il!  ,>•!,        ''Illlit     I',  if     .l"lir- 

ti.-r       \..^  •  jn'-.-r   !  '.  !li.   1  •">.;— I '•••,!  I"-  fr.'iu  .IM   I'!,  j.h.iii!      Tin-  1 1  ,|.|,    p..I.iinu^ 
Tii--  -«-.i,.  ry  .  :,  tii.-  (  h-K.-      Arn\  .il  .1!  >. -h- k.  . 

Til  vr  w:i-  :i  i^n  at  «l:i\-  in  Linvanti,  thai  '-'-""I  -lav  (if  Mav. 
')  lir  capital  «\'  tli-'  Ma!.'.!"!"  lia-1  n<  \  -  T  \\  it  in  •--«  •  1  -iirli  a  -i_rlit. 
i  ii'-  \\a'j"ii-  \vr<-  a  J>li«  ii'  'in-  -in  <i\  i-ut  m-lv  iii-\\.  1  In-  ji.cjili' 
i •  -.'iii-uil"  r.-'l  Livin^-t"iif  :i-  the  Irifinl  <it  S«-l(itiiain-  ;  tli-  \  a*-"- 
(•••iti'tl  lii-  •  -'pjiiin  i  \\  itli  1'!' .t-  '  >t' iii'Ti  a-inu:  LTi'1  atii'-~.  It  -<-«'incil 
Ilk--  tli'-  haii'l  "f  tin-  L'i''  al  i.itt--iil'-  \\.-rl«l  n-afliin^  tlir-m^li  the 
l'.irr;«  T-  "f  wil'liTin-"  ami  ill-tan-'-,  ra-i  r  in  ( •<  .njrat  nlat  i"ii  ami 
-.varni  \\\\\\  ln-'itln-rlv  ln\,-.  Th- \  Wi-n-  Lrla«l.  Tin •  m-anT  trilxx 
li.nl  l..-at.-n  l.a-'k  tin  lijht  tr-;n  tin-  <lu  t-H.-r-  in  tin-  ('ln«U» 
in  ii'-ln--  I'..]'  ruaiiv  yai>;  imw  it  \\a-  ln'iakiirj  l  lirmiL'h,  ami 
r.u!nl  a  (.'  "]•!••  na'iv  I"  ivj..i--r  in  it-  hli— -iu^-.  Tin-  M  ,ik.  ,l,.lo 
i:  ••  t  h-  ni"-t  ii'irtln  in  "t  t  !i-  I  '•<  -  liiiana-,  ami,  iimli-r  I  In-  \\  1-1-  ami 
\\.irlik--  >•  lut uam-,  liail  lui-i.im-  a  j-"U'rtul  natn«n;  tin-  "tlnr 
.  li.-  ;•  i.  :i  -  h:nl  a'-kimu  K 'l_ri-«l  tin-  •_'!•>  atm--  «•!  (hi-  man.  ami 
:i  .  .:-•!'  i  inin  tin-  I".  •-]..,'  \\lii.-h  !  In  \  |i  ai .  •!  t' .  \\  U  liln  il'l  il'  !  In  -v 
i,  i.  i  .1-  -if  -1  L.  il'i  "i.  Tli  Mak"l"lu  l.a-l  i -i  u  n  1 1 1« -ft -i  i  I  In-  \\  Imli- 
i-.'li.T-.  '••  '!n-  II  ,<>.  1  it  ,r  ml' ,  ami  wi-rt-  -.-aii'r.-.l  i!i:iil\  "\'T 
t  !|.  .  '  i'  1  •  1  'in  i  ui,  .  •  i  \Sn_r  a  naim-  ami  lau  -  t"  tin-  t  nl"-- 

aiii"ir_'   •.•.!.".':!    tin  if    iml;\MuiI    i-l'-ntitv   \\  a-    alim--r     !•-!.       Tin- 
|.  •  ;•;?•  .f.     •'.!,:•  h   **•!..! '  I  i  in     i..n  !    -••!<  ••(•  •  I    in   t  In-  <l:i\  -    u  In  n    In-   \\  a- 
l---.  t  !•-,    •  « ,nT  Mi'i.il   '.'.  u-.   IN  in  j  1»  t  '.\  •••  n  tin-  (  'li"'i'-  ami   /.ainlM-^i. 
74 


WELCOME    AT    LINYAXTI.  75 

had  furnished  a  natural  fortress;  but  the  source  of  their  security 
had  almost  been  the  extermination  of  the  nice.  No  enemy  could 
h(»pe  to  assail  Sebitnane  .successfully  in  those  pcstilcrons  mar- lies  ; 
but  the  malarial  breath  of  the  place  was  an  ever-active  enemy 
which  despised  his  strength.  Fevers  had  greatly  reduced  the 
numbers  and  the  bodily  vigor  of  the  Makololo  proper.  Sebit- 
nane  had  maintained  the  vigor  and  ever-inerca.sing  ]»rosperitv  of 
his  nations  by  his  wisdom  in  thoroughly  identifying  all  the 
conquered  tribes  with  his  own.  The  Makalaka  were  in  liiet 
only  serfs  of  the  Makololo,  but  they  were  called  Makololo,  mid 
spoken  of,  like  his  own  people,  as  the  children  of  Sebitnan*.'. 
The  kindness  of  their  conquerors  had  bound  them  in  -tronger 
cords  than  their  authority  could  possibly  have  woven.  The 
Makalaka  were  proud  to  be  called  Makololo. 

The  welcome  at  Linyanti  was  in  all  eourtlv  dignity.  The  herald 
came  bounding  and  capering,  in  most  eccentric  and  indescriba- 
ble antics-cutting,  vociferating  the  feelings  of  the  people.  "  I  >on  t 
I  see  the  white  man?"  "I>on't  I  sec  the  comrade  of  Sebit- 
uane?"  "Don't  I  sec  the  father  of  Sekeletu?  "  "  We  want 
sleep!"  'MJive  your  son  sleep,  mv  lord!"  Sleep!  (juiet ! 
The  people  of  Sebituane  were  tired  of  war.  How  longingly 
those  who  have  been  combating  adversities  through  dragging 
years  think  of  tranquil  hour.- !  War  had  been  threatening 
recently  ;  the  people  of  the  lake  country,  being  in  possession  of 
guns,  had  grown  very  insulting  and  menacing.  The  Makololo 
had  heard  that  "the  white  people  possessed  a  pot  which  would 
burn  up  anv  attacking  party."  They  had  heard  of  cannon. 
Now  they  trusted  they  might  obtain  that  wonderful  "jmf."1  It 
mav  seem  singular  that  a  people  should  deniv  cannon  that  thcv 
miurht  have  peace;  but  it  is  the  improvement  in  the  implements 
of  war  which  promotes  the  interests  of  peace  more,  perhaps, 
than  anything  except  the  gospel.  The  consciousness  of  strength 
increases  our  magnanimity.  The  exhibition  of  strength  secure.-' 
us  respect.  IJ<s|iect  on  one  side  and  magnanimity  on  the  other 
leave  no  place  for  strife. 

Sekeletu  had  on  }\\~~  chieftainly  behavior.  The  great  cups  of 
the  national  beer  were  brought  with  lavish  hospitality.  From 
the  time  of  his  arrival  the  Makololo  ladies  were  mo>r  a.-.-iduoiisi 
in  their  attentions;  their  presents  o/  milk  and  food  burdened 


7»>  MA-SUM  HISAM:  .>  HIKFHTI.TV. 

the  gratitude  of  tin-  -tranter-.  Ind»-ed,  in  all  wild  countries, 
the  simple,  childlike,  tin-  ^rand,  <Jodlikc  ^raee  of  hospitality 
abounds.  The  poor  Indian  \\ill  tell  N..II  how  hi*  ancotor* 
ke|»t  a  home  in  C\-TV  village  for  tli<-  -iran^'i':  how  the  visitor, 
whoever  In-  wa.-,  ua-  eondii'-ted  thither  in  jov  and  pride;  how 
the  U->t  -kin-  W.T--  -pr<-,id  and  tin-  choiee-t  food  provided  wilh- 
'tut  price  »»r  e  \peet.-d  thank.-)—  the  -'  r\  iee  ot'  dntv  onlv.  In 
Africa  tin-  people  n--\'«-r  think  of  putting  a  priee  on  their  atten- 
tions to  the  -tranter  until  civili/ittion  ti-aeh.-.-  them  ciipiditv. 
It  i-  the  letter  •>('  (  i  o.  1  -  -!'i-at  law  of  kimliie--  \\ritten  on  their 
wild  heart.-  whi'-h  \v>-  read  in  their  ready  reception  <,f  the 
•*  ranker.  It  i-  the  writing  out  of  (  Jod'.-  law  Uv  the  dt^iloijuo 
ot'  the  devil  whieh  we  read  in  the  -•  •]  li-li  ne-~  and  -u.-jiicioii 
which  make-  a  l:\ri;e  pait  ••!  civili/atimi  a  dcx-rt  drearier,  \<>r 
the  wandering  and  the  \\antin_r.  than  the  -an-l-  ot  Sahara. 
The~e  ladylike  matron-,  with  t!n-ir  .-hoj-t-eiit  hair  and  coat-  of 
.-I'iniiiL'  Imtter,  onlv  p.irllv  hidden  l.v  the  .-..it  mantle  of  o.\ 
li'ile  throun  o\  er  the  K.n-e  -hoiildi  T-,  and  the  o\-hide  kilt  from 
\sai-t  to  kneo,  their  arm-  and  ankles  adorned  \\ith  ma--ive 
ri  i1^-  of  !»ra--  and  iron,  and  -tnn_r-  ot  l»ad-  o)  \ai~ioii-  hiu-.i 
\\  ined  al>>'iit  their  ne.-k-.  \s  ,  i  .  «.:il\  ^-lad  to  \\..n-  the  ^raee  <'l* 
fr  -e  attention.-  with  that  L.ri'aee  oi  j.i-r-oii  m  \\lneh  thev  jii'id'1 

tl.em-'  1  Ve-. 

\<>\i  will  rememln-r  that  Ma-niiN-hi-ane  had  Keen  lift  the 
c  I'-ttain-lnp  ot'  t  he  Makololo.  |>nl  M  a-moehi-aiie  \\  a-  a  u  oman. 
'  ie  Makololo  \\omeii  -ill  are  pa—  ioiiatelv  fond  o|'  children. 

'.    II'-    !:td\     ehieftaill     tl'n  d    to    follo\\     the    e\a!llple    of  the    ellief-.  aild 

•.••li-.-'.-d  a  niimln-r  ot'  men  \\hoin  -he  eall.d  h«-r  trir,.i.  lint  U 
woiildn  t  '.\'irk.  I  h'-  \\omen  liii-arne  aron-ed  ajain-t  her  ;  their 
to!i_'i;,  -  ,-oi|!d  not  1..-  eontrol!.-d  ;  th-  ir  luti^r  -j.e,  .-he-  and  cnn  1 
m-iiin  iti"  n-  \\  -  ri-  inor--  than  Ma-lnoehi-aiie  cmild  <  ndure.  She 
l*r--!  '•  d.  !i.-  >•!  !•  d,  -1  n  •  -jot  mad,  -he  i  j  n  it  and  YOU  ii|  -he  \s  on  Id 
n-il  ii.  .  :ni-t.  >!f  \\oiild  "  ha\'e  a  hn-liand  aii'l  chil'll'i  n  and  u 

holil'  •!..•      o'hi-r      U-illl'll."  "SekelelU       iJIII-t        !»•      elll't."  S<  : 

•^-  -I-.  •  !•  ''I  -Ni-.d  :n  tlf  -I  KM  -  o|  h:-  lath'  r.  'I  hi-  N'OIJIPJ-  man  m- 
h-  i  :'•  d  In-  i  t'  !e  c  -  d  i  /nit  v  and  a  nl  hori  t  v,  -oiu<  •  o|  hi-  \\  i-d"in 
and  k  Mid  IM---.  and  all  o|  h  -  n't  >•,.,_  (  )|  t  he-e  lal  l«  r  he  di  -t  rilniti  d 


tor  h.m-'  !  '.       le   v.!-  ijn.'.    an.  \ioiii  to  f;i\  ••  !  he  m;--ioiiarv  an  v- 


LIVINCJSTONK    KKI-TSKS    T< »    TltADK.  77 

tiling  he  possessed,  l)iit    he  refused   po.-itivelv  to   read  the   Rook 
which  taught   that  men  should    have  only  one  wife.      He   mii-i 
have   "  <it   leant    fire    ir/ms."      lie    was    lionc.-t    eertainlv.      Anv 
thhig  is  Ix'tler  than    pretending  to  accept  what  i-  -aid,  \\heii  t!i» 
secret  thought  and  determination  are  entirely  the  other  \\av. 

As  earlv  as  possible  Livingstone,  assembled  the  people  foi 
worship.  The  Mukololo  olwervcd  greater  decorum  than  MIMIP. 
of  the  more  southern  tribes  had  on  the  lir-t  presentation  of  thr 
gospel,  though  there  were  manv  disturbances  inseparable  from 
absolute  ignorance  of  such  a  thing  as  piibli--  \\or.-hip. 

Among  those  people,  as  elsewhere,  Livingstone  had  amph 
opportunity  to  take  advantage  of  the  kindness  and  ignorance  o/ 
the  natives  and  of  his  being  the  pioneer  of  discovery,  to  enga^ 
to  great  advantage  in  trade;  but  he  was  too  derplv  inter<--ted  in 
the  spiritual  condition  of  the  people  too  thoroughly  eon-cerate.! 
to  the  service  of  (iod.  He  resisted  all  temptations  in  th;,( 
direction,  and  though  conducting  his  great  work  on  L'l'-'U  «j 
year,  out  of  which  the  single  item  ot  pi-c-cnts  l'or  the  people 
through  whose  territory  he  must  pa-s  \va<  considerable,  h< 
j ; rested  on  without  murmuring.  Jt  uas  his  ^;udv  that  he 
might  impress  on  the  minds  of  the  poor  people  that  he  sought 
oulv  their  elevation  and  salvation. 

At  first  he  found  some  difficulty  in  finding  persons  \vh» 
would  learn  to  read,  for  the  reason.-  which  we  have;  given.  At 
length,  however,  -;  veral  prominent  men,  even  the  hesitating 
Sekeletu,  hc^an  the  work.  Thus  teaching,  preaching,  and 
searching  with  all  the  industry  to  be  expected  of  one  t'nllv  set- 
tle<l  ano  "fixed,"  this  wonderful  man,  a  \vaviiirer  only,  had 
thrown  himself' immediately  into  hi-  work.  The  world  wn-  the 
field  he  wa-  sowing  be>ide  all  water-.  There  \\as  ^rcat  nerd  of 
the  noblest  elements  of  character  \o  pn  i-emte  t ho  work  of  (/hrist 
in  such  a  eoinmumtv.  It  was  the  heart  (•!'  spiritual  ignorance 
it  was  the  verv  core  of'  chaos. 

Yet  there  were  idea-  of'  justice,  and  there  was  industry  and 
manliness  and  <[iiite  familiar  ideas  of'  beaut v.  The  wnineM.  l'"r 
instance,  admiring  themselves  in  Livingstone's  mirror,  wcr< 
entertained  (juite  -is  rrallv  as  anv  citv  belle  vi>u  ever  -  >.\v.  an:l 
they  were  ^reatlv  m<»re  honest  in  their  impre— i»n-.  T'  '  IKU! 
never  seen  themselves  before.  Verv  much  uf  the  -,,'-<"in 


7*  II>EAS    OF   JTSTK-E    AND    HEAVTY. 

placcncv  of  the  world  is  tin-  "hild  of  H-lf-i^noranr?  aiul  blind- 
miss.  The-e  women  would  MIV  :  '  l<  that  me'.'"'  "What  a 
his;  mouth  I  have  !  "  "  Mv  ear-  an  a-  Mi;  a.-  pumpkin  leaves." 
"  I  have  n«>  i-liin  at  all."  "  1  would  have  Int-n  pretty,  hut  am 
"IM)iltil  1>V  the-e  llijjll  eln  <-k-li"in  •-."  "See  ln>\\  inv  head  shoots 
up  in  tin-  middle.''  Their  nn-rrv  lau;^ht<  r  \\itli  these  jukes 
.iftorded  tl*"  over-worked  and  anxious-hearted  mi.-.-ionarv  murh 
amu>cme!)t. 

The  IIII-M  ri'|<>i<v  in  tht-ir  javelins  and  the  Mpiii'j;  ox-hide 
••hirld-.  Tin-van-  di-\t<-r»ii-  in  tin-  u>e  uf  the  our,  and  tliroxv 
the  other  with  ~iii^nlar  f'»n-e  and  e\ai-tnt->  nl'  aim  Their 
triined  emirate  i - 1 1 1 -i •.-  thnu  to  dc-pi-e  pain  and  \\  •  ai'inc— v 

There  -tr<-  regular  <-oiirt~,  where,  in  the  M-ttleinent  ot  the 
lfrav«-r  ditli'  iilti'-,  tin-  jin>p<-r  delilM-rati'>n  and  eari-  are  emplove<l 
to  hrin-j  out  the  truth  and  render  jn-tin-.  In  t hi  -<•  court-  the 
afi'ii-eil  and  tin-  a'-i-n-i-r  an-  liroij-jht  !a<-'-  to  laee,  eaeli  MlpjM»rt«tl 
l>v  hi-  u  it  IH  --'•--;  all  par  tit-  t«-!l  I  li--ir  >ti>ri<  -,  and  the  eh  id'  men 
n-nd'-r  thi-  d'-'i-i-in,  \\hi--h  HOIM-  dt  -ir«-  t"  ^notion.  All  re>]M-.-t 

the   il'-«-i-i"II-    "t"    the   ei.nrt. 

Att.-r  -|ieiidiie_r  a  month  in  the  lio-pitali]e  town  of  Sekelefu, 
I  >r.  L;\'in^-tone  \\a-  attended  l>v  tl;al  \-oim^  ehiel'iain  in  a  loin 
noftlivsanl  a-  !ar  a-  Naliel.-.  the  eapital  ot'  the  Ha  rot -e  eoiinlrv. 
Tln-ir  path  lav  a!"ii-_r  tin-  upper  hank  ofthe  (  'I,,,!,,  •.  'I'liat  iiohl.- 
n\-r  \\  .:\\  it-  lortiv--  of  ne-l-  \va.-  on  ilu-ir  njlit  hand.  Kverv 
no\\  and  then  one  of  tho-r  -ni_Mi!ar  ininiatnre  mountain-  reared 
liv  tip-  mtenninalile  imlu-trv  of  the  tm\  ant  \\a-  pa.— «<1,  it.s 
l>i". id,  '_''  nti<  ,  fej-tde  -I,,].!-  in\itin'_r  the  dili^ener  M|  tin-  natives 

to  the  eiiitlire  of  lip  i  r  (  !|oje,  -t  plallt-.  'I  lie  I'ieh  ti  IKl'  'i"U-  loaill 
oil  t  he  ll.it-  Let  \\  .en  !  1 1 .  -e  a  1 1 1  -  1 1  I  I  !  -  -II_r'_f|  -te<l  t  lie  ll"|»e  "I  eoJJ.  .]|- 

ti'Ni-.  and  i'Verv\\  lien-  the  han^inir  I'rnit  Kim-hed  the  lear  of 
\\  an;.  'I  IP-  Imndi  •  d  and  -i  \t  v  at  tend  ant-  in  a  I"1)-.:  !i  in-  \\  ind- 
m_r  thr"ii_rh  til---'-  -eeiie-,  eoinpleln]  a  vie\v  a~  j  ..>  ;  iire-ijii(-  a-> 
-•"i!d  I.e.  The  'A.I\  MI-  feat  In  r-,  the  ilan-lih/  ->\  tail-,  tin-  !la-hv 
pnn'-.  the  i-''l  tiinie-,  the  -pi-ar-  and  r-hield-,  and  elnl.-  and 
1. a';!-  i\- -,  'hi  l.tu-jliter,  th'-  -hoiit-,  tip-  ant.liipi-  1"  'iindiiij^ 
«•  '  .  an«l  -p!a-hin;/  tlir"U.'h  llu-  pmjd-,  all  t  IM-  fofe-t 

;!i.'..i!  iit.iii!  -  in  thru  eiiinni/  forward  to  \  •;•  \s  the  ij.  pa--  it 
i.va-  a  iini'pie  pi'  ttj'e  :md  tui!  •.('  intefi'-t. 

An   Alvaan    .  in-  I    hail    t.il.'M    iij.    tin-    •_'•  n<T»ti-    man   s\  ho  had 


VILI.AOK    Ki:ri 

led  to  tho  heart  of  the  continent  with  his  messages  of 
fraternity  from  men  and  grace  from  (lod,  and  W;LS  bearing  him 
triumphantly  through  all  his  borders.  Authority  went  before 
them  and  opened  the  storehouses  of  tribes  and  the  hearts  of 
people.  Servants  cleared  the  path.  The  beasts  behaved  like 
subjects.  At  cverv  village  the  loud  Inlleloo  of  the  women  pro- 
claimed their  cordiality  and  their  respect  for  the  chief.  The 
young  chief  received  their  erics  of  "(treat  lion,"  "(treat  chief/' 
"Sleep,  my  lord,"  as  composedly  us  he  invites  his  companion 
to  the  calabash  of  beer  which  prompt  Makololo  have  provided. 

The  Makololo  presented  the  partv  great  bowls  of  milk,  out 
of  which  they  drank,  dipping  bv  means  of  that  primitive  pro- 
vision commonly  known  as  the  hollow  of  the  hand,  Nature's 
spoon.  An  ox  was  commonly  killed,  and,  quickly  divided 
amongst  the  com  pan  v,  was  soon  scorching  in  the  flames,  and 
while  dripping  and  cracking  with  the  heat  was  crammed 
voraciously  into  the  capacious  jaws  of  the  men,  each  racing  to 
be  filled,  in  mortal  terror  of  the  law  which  forbids  that  one  con- 
tinue at  his  food  when  the  others  have  finished.  Sekeletu 
became  quite  fond  of  IV.  Livingstone's  coffee  and  biscuit,  lie 
would  declare  with  unusual  warmth  that  he  "  knew  the  heart 
of  the  missionary  loved  him  bv  finding  his  own  heart  warm 
toward  the  missionary's  food."  A  process  of  reasoning,  bv  the 
way,  which  may  hardly  be  trusted  in  the  reach  of  the  covetous 
people  of  lighter  hue.  The  villages  of  the  Makololo,  besides 
the  gift  of  food  and  shouts  of  welcome,  have  a  singular  arrange- 
ment, which  makes  their  entertainment  something  like  a  trifling 
custom  in  other  places.  The  houses  are  onlv  circles  of  posts 
placed  in  the  ground  and  vines  and  mortar  filling  the  inter- 
stices. The  root's  are  entirely  detached  and  independent  of  the 
walls.  They  look  just  like  a  Chinese  hat.  and  are  lifted  on  and 
otf  at  the  pleasure  of  the  occupant.  The  guest's  chamber  is 
generally  provided  by  lifting  the  root' of  the  hut  off,  and  setting 
it  on  the  ground.  The  guest  sleeps  under  the  root'.  The  house 
takes  oil'  its  hat  to  you  as  von  approach  it. 

The  partv  struck  the  Lceambye  at  the  town  of'  Katon^a. 
Sekhase  sent  canoes  across  to  brini;  them  o\vr  to  him.  The 
region  around  Katon^a  or  Sekhase  di tiers  little  from  the  valley 
of  the  Chobe,  except  that  it  is  higher  and  freer  from  t!,< 


so  Tin:  I.KKAMIIVK. 

malarial  vapor-"-.  Tin-  saiuluT  --oil  Ix-vimd  tin-  marks  ot  over- 
flow r«  tln-i-  pniiifiillv  the  Miimiys,  »lriviiij;  tin-  poor  >ror<-h<-<l 
huntrr  t-i  ili-pix-  tin-  -port  <»r  ilrnv  tin-  \\ant  \\hi<-h  prompted 
him  forth  upon  tin-  li<  1<I. 

All  -ort-  of  li<T<l-,  tV"Ht  a  titiv,  lairv-lookint:  ant<-lojn>  eii;h- 
tivii  iiii  -lit  -  lii_r!i,  t'i  tin'  inaii-tii'  IxiUalo,  1""<1  h'i.-mvly  and 
iMtvf-fiillv  o\i  T  tln-i-  plain-.  Aiu-'ii-j  thrill  llirn1  \va>  a  -JM-I-HS 
of  flantl  famoti-  \'»r  it-  l>-aii;\'.  I;i  tin-  cn^raviiii;  llicrc  i-  a 
n-jir- •-••i\\ at  imi  i-l'  tlii-  -jt!«'inli<l  i-lirii^iiy,  t»ut  <>\'  \\  h-  -r  iniil-t  1  >r. 
Liviiiir-i'im- ftirri"-*!  <-!ir  Icn-U  t<>  hi>  nu-n — IM-U<  r  -jaiur  in  thnr 
i-vi-.-.  l»v  l.ir  !  tian  tlr-  !in-  -t  i'\. 

Tin-  I  ,.••  :t;;ii>\  »•  i-  a  ~>!«  ii'lnl    >trraiu  -i\    litunlrci]    \-ar»l-  \\iil.' 


a  mil"  in  hn-adlh.  1  In-  l>mk-  on  cither  .-i'l"  \\ere  <-|n[li.'il  \\itli 
>p!«-ndid  !'•[•(•-:-.  Th"  \vinti-r  wind  had  -haken  otl'  th"  (loral 
rrown  i.f  -iimnnT,  v>  In  re  the  r:iv-  of  t  In-  -••!  tin-_r  -nn  l"\"d  to 

lin-jiT  la;i  -t.  a-  it    tln-v   lo\vd  it  lx-t,  ami   over  the  wide  Ixiii-jh- 

i          *  *    i  i  *      i  t  i  t 

a    -jaii/v     mantle    ot     "lian^i-alii"    ltp>wn    \\a-    thrown,    thrmi^l, 

\\hieh  e\erv  MOW  ami  then  the  traveller-  had  a  ulimp-e  of  the 
lie-h  "!•"•!!  date  palm.  Soiiift  i  n  n  •,  tin-  foi'"-t-  \vuiiM  oiieii  a 

I  I 

n--tl:n_r  plaee  l'«r  a  litth-  villas--;  tin-n  ;ln-ir  ilniuinion  \\nnlil 
}><'  !"•  -M!:i"-l  a!oii_r  tin-  hank-  "J  i  he  ri\i  r  of  \shi"!i  tln-v  ai'e  tin- 
rhi!«lr--n  ami  tin-  -]<>rv. 

lin-  jiarf."  \\«re  -^Inliutr  a!"ii_'  in  tin-  narrow  eam>"-  \\hieli 
Iianllv  ili-!nrl.e<l  tin-  •.:!a--v  -nrlaee  i.f  tin-  -tri-am  in  it-  «i-ep, 
«i  i;«-t  plaei-,  and  \\lni-li  hoimdid  li-'-m  \\ave  |n  \\:i\c  in  the 
I'lirjli-r  p!ae<--,  \\lnre  in:  !•  rl\  MIL'  i'""L-  r>  -i-t"d  it,  li_;hilv  a- 
\\in.:'d  !:.i!ij-.  Ili"  Makalaka  Were  MI  t  In-]  r  eleim  lit .  ^laml- 

lll'_r      if1"'  i  '.       Ill      the      II.HTo\v     1  u  >;it  -,     t  he\-      p|  |ei]      their      lo|i_',      1  :t  h" 

•  •.if-   '.v  !'  h   mateldi  --  de\I-  rit  \  ,  and   r:i"-  -1  aloiiiT  \\  it  h  tin-  i  •  «  1. 
•1-  1  -..i-  ina-t.r-.       The    Mak,,l..l.i    are  tln-ir  : 

o!|      '!,.        l.liid.    i.llt      th'   V    tn   Millie     ..\er      tin-   ed   ••-    ..)'    th,       -!..-''''IJ- 

1 1  -. ;  !.  -  if  t  In  if  -hadou  -  i  ii  tin  v.  :i!'T  pointed  to  a  -<  ]  >n  !•  ' ,  i  •-. 
I  ii  :  ••  -'  an:i'i  i'-  ">'  Ali'i'-a  a!"'tmd  al"n-/  tin-  l>anl.-  •  >'.'  \\n- 

;:!!•!  •  •  -:n  .i_'<  •  ,11-  1 1  Uiit<  :  - .  a  in  1  t  In  %•  -•  !<  ,-f  r  In-  h  i  ppop.  ,•  i  n ,  - ;  -  a- 
t  !n-ir  •  mn-. 

'I  h       Mn  :,re    :i 

|»  ae.  :i!,'i.     ]«-..{,:..       liny  1     vi     no    i-attle,    tln-r".''"!'"    i;o   e.inrrn- 


NO    MONTMKNTS    JN    AFUK  A. 

vcrsy  with  their  neighbors.  Nearly  all  the  quarrelling  in  the 
country  is  about  cattle.  Tin.'  tsetse  partly,  and  partly  tin -\c 
ill-sin*  to  livr  i>eaceable,  incline  these  people  [<>  their  chosen 
handicraft  in  preference  to  having  herd.-.  I)r.  Living-tone 
never  knew  \var  in  this  whole  region  except  on  a  cattle  11110- 
tion,  but  in  a  single  instance;  then  the  trouble  was  like  that  of 
which  old  Homer  sings — a  woman.  But  women  are  con>id'-red 
among  tin;  necessaries  of  life,  so  the  Manyeti  ha/ard  war  rather 
than  banish  all  the  women. 

From  Katima-molelo  northward  there  is  a  succession  of 
rapids,  lalls  and  cataracts  which  make  the  progress  difficult  and 
dangerous.  The  party  were  obliged  to  carry  their  canoes  around 
some  of  these  places;  sometimes  more  than  a  mile  would  thus 
IK;  traversed,  bearing  their  boats  on  their  shoulders.  At  (lonye 
tin)  main  body  of  the  water  is  collected  within  about  seventy 
>:mls,  and  leaps  about  thirty  feet;  the  entire  mass  falling  against 
a  huge  projecting  rock,  causes  a  sound  which  is  heard  far  away. 
r\  here  are  various  traditions  of  sudden  death  to  hapless  travcl- 
li  rs  floating  about  this  spot,  lint  whatever  has  been,  there  are 
n  )  memorials  more  substantial  than  the  imperfect  traditions. 
rj  here  is  nothing  in  all  these  wilds  to  commemorate  the  past  ; 
tl te  dead  are  rarely  spoken  or';  there  are  no  monuments  in  all 
.Africa;  u  the  very  rocks  are  illiterate;  ''  hidden  in  them  art-  no 
curious  shapes  and  characters,  nothing  to  interest  or  tempt  the 
U'tentions  of  science  as  in  other  rocks. 

About  the  1<]  S.  latitude  the  party  entered  the  true  Barotse 
\alley.  The  Ibrests  fall  back  gradually  from  the  banks  of  the 
river,  until  they  arc  only  seen  acro-s  the  fringe  of  reeds  and  a 
flat,  fertile  tract  .-ome  twenty  mile-  apart.  Like  the  valley  of 
the  Nile,  this  valley  is  subject  to  an  annual  overflow  from  the 
river,  which  winds  along  its  centre.  The  villages  of  the 
]>arotse,  built  on  artificial  mounds,  dot  the  whole  expanse,  and 
sit  there  like  leeming  i-lands  while  the  water.-  of  the  overflow 
spread  around  them.  The  people  love  their  homes  beside  the 
splendid  stream — a  home  where  "  hunger  never  come-.  ]>ut 
comfortable  though  the.-e  poor  people  think  they  are.  like  all  of 
this  wild  country  this  noble  valley  is  waiting  for  the  hand  of 
intelligence  to  find  its  real  treasures.  In  one  of  these  I>arot.«e 
towns  Livingstone  witnessed  a  specimen  of  Makololo  authority 

O  4>  • 


S2  WAU  AVKI:TF.I>  nv  LIVISOSTOXE. 

\\hich  was  painful  indeed.  It  \\ a.-  tin-  town  where  the  father 
of  a  man  lived  \vh<>  h:i«l  eon-pi  red  t"  deprive  SekeletU  of  the 
.chicftain>hip  after  the  death  of  Scbitnane.  This  man  and  an- 
other who  had  c.iun-elled  the  con-piracv  were  taken  on  the 
arrival  of  S  kel.-tu  ami  t. •—••.!  int..  the  river.  The  remon- 
uranei-  «.f  the  il.M-t.tr  w«-re  of  no  avail.  Sekeletu  (filly  calmly 
an-\\eivd  him:  "  YOU  -4  •<  we  an-  .-till  !'>'•<  r-;  we  are  not  taught." 
Hut  Living-tone  wa-  more  Micce-.-ful  in  averting  a  war  upon 
the  Mamliari.  to  wh«-e  fortified  town  they  c-aine.  The  feeling 
ot'  tin  Makololo  \va~  verv  Kitt.-r  a^ain.-t  them.  '1  hey  had  Ixvn 
Kitim.it. -lv  a--"«-iati-d  \\ith  the  <••  .n.-|>irator  :i^ain.-t  St-keletu,  and 
liu<l  i.  e.  i\.d  of  him  the  privilege  <>f  marauding  un  their  neigh- 
1  •••!•-.  Thi-ir  eitv  \\a-  1'nil  o|'ihe~e  j>o..r  slavi"-gangs.  The  plan 
'•:'  til'-  ehi'-f  \va-  to  -tarve  tli'-  l' -rtre>s  out.  Livingstone,  .-how- 
i:i_'  th-  m  that  th'-  lir-t  and  ^i---:ii«-.-t  MiiU-rer-  in  that  ca>e  \\oiild 
.-la\  i  -.  linallv  1'  -I  them  a\\av  and  avwrted  a  erm  1 
re\.-n_'<-.  Il  U:L-  a  part  of  the  eon-taut  aim  and  ellort  of  Liv- 
in^-loiie  \"  hrin_'  th'-  native-  .if  the  country  through  which  In: 
pa-- d  t"  !»ve  ]..  a<-e  ami  enilirai-'- a  creed  of  kindness.  An<l  it 
v.  a-  a  It!. ---d  -i-rvicc.  The  horrors  of  war  mav  not  l»e  appreci- 
a!'-l  !-\  tiie  p.  ...r  -a\a_re,  Imt  ih'-v  an-  p-al  and  awful  .-till.  T«i 

ilicllleu'i-   a    -pint    ol'    peaee    111    tlle||    1-    tllcll'     lligllfSt     -efVlce;     it    is 

<   iiri-tlii.'-. 

('a!'!u!  iti'piirv  .it  Naliele  COIIN  ineed  I  >r.  Living>tunr  that 
ih'  r.-  ii.id  ii'-ver  I'.-.-n  a  \\iiite  man  in  that  P-j-ion  he  for.-  he  and 
Mr.  <  >  A  •  '1  \\.-re  at  S-hituaiie*-,  in  ]>.")!.  Though  he  met  -onie 
halt  -a-!  ri.rtujii'--'-  at  tin-  time,  tin  v  had  coine  into  tin-  e..un- 
t  rv  1  v.  n  \.u-  at;,  r  t  li<-  \-i-it  of  him-elf  and  <  >-\\  •  11  in  1  >.M  .  It 
i-  pr»:>ao!.'  that  no  \\lnte  man  ha*!  e\-.-r  lieeii  -•  •  tai'  in!'  the 
.f  riii-  AlVi'-an  e,,nt:n>-iil  l-l'if-.  H  i-  eve-;  wen»  looking 
ie--  -M'a !!_"•,  woiid'-rlul  tlinrj-  l'>r  lh«-  \\..rld,  and  it  ua- 
r.  ••;.•!'-  lir-t  -_'liinp-.-  of  t  h.  in. 

:.'  i:».  --  ..f  S.-l.i-l.  ;  n    pi-"vid'-d    attendant-,  and    th'-mi-- 
!iai  y    •  •  .;it  ;nii'-d    hi-    |onrii' \'    -.'in--    ih-faii'-e    ln-\.i|id     Nali'-le 

"    '•hi'-f.        'I'll--     li.  tald     of   S-kel.  til.    tllollL'h,    matle     till.' 

trai!        '•'    •  •••.  •  r\    \  ,!!a-."     an    :i!l'a;r.'f  pnin-.  !v  d  ijmt  \    1«\-   rim- 
i/    1:1     :     \:in''-    "t     t!i'     part\-.  \-. .. -ill-rat  in  j-,    "  I  I<  P     <nm.--    the 
•  i'1-1  '  ''tip  -   (hi-    i/|-i  at     li'in.  I  h'-    at  t.-iif  i.  .n-   \\.  r>-  in 

i!itC'-lner  ion  ;     tli.-    pact\-    faf'd     on     the    fat 


THK    WILDEST    OF  ALL.  $r, 

of  the  land,  and  enjoyed  nil  the  respect  (<•  be  desired.  Th<- 
public  meetings  were  attended  readily,  the  people  h.-;u'd  with 
(juietness,  and  the  lx>st  decorum  was  observed  in  all  the  -•  rvio -. 
Beyond  the  14°  S.  latitude  the  forests  converged  until  thev 
east  their  shadows  upon  the  river  again,  and  the  pariv  pa-~e<| 
along  U'tween  the;  stately  tri'es  and  clinging  vines  a-  I'.ir  a-  !::•• 
eonflnenee  of  tin;  Leeba.  But  nowhere  eoidd  be  li.iiii'l  a  .-). ••>[ 
exempt  from  the  poisonous  atmosphere  so  antagonistic.- to  lualth. 
The  dest in v  of  Livingstone  was  more  t-han  0,11  iet  teaching; 
Providence  had  i»i  hand  to  open  Africa  bv  this  man.  lie  was 
allowed  to  find  no  home. 

The  regions  through  which  he  had  passed  were  fertile  to 
rankness.  The  inhabitants  were  the  nio-t  thorough! v  ignorant. 
and  wild  of  any  people  he  had  seen.  The  forests  and  plain- 
were  filled  with  every  variety  of  animal  and  beast.  At  Libonta 
lie  counted  eighty-one  buffaloes  pass  slowlv  belore  his  lire. 
The  roar  of  the  lioii  was  continuous  and  loud.  Kvervthintr, 
animate  and  inanimate,  was  wild  and  mon.-trons. 

On  returning  to  Xaliele  Livingstone  rejoined  Sekdetu,  enjov- 
ing  the  adulations  of  his  subjects,  who  did  all  thev  couM  to 
charm  the  young  chief  in  his  first  visit  to  their  borders.  The 
dance  which  constituted  their  principal  entertainment  wa-  in- 
deed a  strange  and  grotes([iie  performance,  admirably  appro- 
priate to  a  mad-house.  The  nearlv  naked  men,  .-landing  in  a 
circle,  brandi>h  their  clubs  and  battle-axes,  while  thev  stamp 
first  the  right  then  the  left  foot,  all  moving  together  in  this 
artistic  performance;  while  their  wild,  indescribable  contortions 
of  countenance  and  body  conspired,  with  the  interminable  and 
demoniacal  laughter,  to  drive  one  almost  eraxv  with  perplexitv 
and  eonfiision.  Thev  consider  it  "  verv  nice,"  and  Sckel.-tu 
"gives  them  an  ox  for  dancing  for  him  :  "  so  light-heartedness 
and  hunger  are  oddlv  joined  in  the  sjiirit  of  the  scene.  The 
women  have  only  a  very  unimportant  pan  in  the  performance. 
Surrounding  the  circle,  thev  dap  their  hands  continually,  onlv 
now  and  then  venturing  to  slip  into  the  midst  of  the  men,  cut 
a  few  capers,  and  retire  to  the  observant  and  applauding  pla<v. 

The  heart  of  the  missionary  had  endured  a  great  trial  during 
the  nine  weeks  of  this  journey.  II<>\\-  helplessly  he  looked  up 
to  the  great  Master  out  of  the  midst  of  these  poor  degraded 


SlJ  PREPARATION    FOR    JOfKNKY    TO    I.O.VNDA. 

m:t-~-c-  !  Their  (lancing,  roaring,  -injjiii'j:,  j»^tin<;,  grumbling, 
li^litiiiir  ami  numlering  were  the  wild  e\pre— ions  of  their  de- 
gradation, and  thev  rani;  in  his  cars  continually  like  the  crv  of 
the  lo-t,  like  an  tiiKiuisciotis  praver  for  help,  lit-  sti  floret  1 

kei-nlv,  hut  more  than  ever  was  ns<>lved  to  "pen  Africa  t«i  the 
i'ull  liirht  of  tin-  truth  which  <et-  nn  n  tree  from  -uperstitions 
and  all  clinsrini;  corruption-. 

In  Scj)t«-!iilMT  the  explorer  and  Christian  tca«-hcr  was  in  Lin- 
\anti  airain,  arranirinir  fora  joiirncv  to  Loanda  on  the  \vc.-t  crn 
eoa.-t.  His  ctitjcrniss  to  accotnpli-h  thi-  joiirm-v  found  an  ally 
in  the  anxietv  of  the  Makololo  to  o|»eu  :i  din-<-t  trade  with 
white  men.  They  telt  rc.-tive  under  the  old  -v-i«  in  of  swindling 
to  whieh  thev  had  IM-I-M  -o  lon«r  suhjift^l  l»v  the  Mamhari.  \\lio 
had  ino'iopoli/i-d  the  trading  l)etw«fn  the  interior  and  the  ena.-t. 
Livinir-tone  "-"incidcd  too  in  thi-  di--ire  for  the  establishment  of 
direct  trad'-  with  the  interior;  tor  not  oiilv  did  the  nativ  •- 
thejn.-elve*i  -iill»-r  for  the  lack  of  it,  luit  he  was  convinced  that  it 
would  al-o  \\ork  i^reatlv  :i'^ain~t  anv  nn-.-ionarv  who  mi^ht  !•<• 
dcjH-ndetit  on  intercourse  with  the-e  cxtortiomnLT  trailer-  (I  T 

-llppli."<. 

I'l-'jiii-nt  tfVer-  had  worn  |wrceptil)lv  on  thi-  vi'_r<t|-i.n<  con- 
-t  mi!  inn  .if'  1  )r.  Livinif>tone.  A  man  more  ea-ilv  di-coiira'_r«<l 
•  •'•uld  iiave  toiind  a  well-grounded  ••\cii-e  for  clainiini;  e\emj>- 
ti'in  lr«t:ii  duties  demanding  >iuih  expo-nrcand  exertion.  'I  IHTP 
N\:I-  no  wavering  in  the  In-art  <>t'  llii-  man.  lie  lilt  that  lie 
mu-t  ta'-i-  death  vt-ry  deliherately.  It  \va-  paintnllv  impressed 
"ii  him  that  a  lonelv  di-~olution  in  wild  f«ire-t-.  \siih  onlv 
heathen  attendants,  \\a~  <|iiit'-  pmltalile  ;  Inn  he  reasoned,  "  It 
\M-  -••r\-i-  (|.»1  at  all  it  mu-t  l>e  done  in  a  manlv  \\-.\\~.  '  He 
l>:uii-hed  all  ('•  ar-  and  lirae.d  him-t-lt'  to  "-ijii-e.il  nr  peri-h." 
N'lthiii'j-  i-  mope  ti>uehin:_p  than  the  j.i.-'  nn-  . .('  t  lii-  •_'!••  at  man, 
:i!'er  ;••  ',]•  <-\  in_'  -erinii-lv  «\\  t  !i>-  dan_r-  r-  <  -t'  t  he  und-  rtak  in^  !"•• 
t'-r'-  him.  -;;tni_r  down  in  the  rude  hut  "1  a  -av:r_re  and  <i'iu- 
!!)•  !id::i.:  hi-  lit:!-  da'i-ht-T  t-  a  I.  r-  .'her  lai'  :r.\av  a;  id  1"  <  i"d. 

Th'    I',-:--  h  id   r.-lie-,-.  d   him  ..f  an  \i.--\-  al"-:ir    -.-.  -  .r!d  !  \      -..—.*.. 


«-:MH-  hv  re!:- vm.r  him  ••!  th-ir  | ..,--,--], ,;,.  I  h- re  \\a-  v.-rv 
little  to  di-po-.- of  ri-c,v.  Tii,  fri'-ndU  Mak--l"!o  p  adilv  a^-uni'-d 
t!i--  '-ar«  >,('  hi-  !iu!e  .fuj-e,  :i:,d  ],  j'r  him  t'r.  e  t«>  e.|iii|i  him-elt'  for 

the    '"II'/      j'-UMI'-V.  1!-'       e1||  ;o|l-    pade)'    will    1  )e    ple.'1-ed    to    1<  JIOW 


OUTFIT    FOR    JoriENKY. 

what  sort  of  outfit  an  explorer  of  Midi  wilds  find-,  important. 
There  an-  all  sorts  of  tilings  represented  1.,  he  indi-pcnsihle, 
hut  Livingstone  was  too  inured  to  privations  and  hanUhips  tu 
trouhlc  himself  much  about  softening  the  bed  which  he  wa.i 
called  to  lie  on.  In  his  own  language,  he  was  satisfied  "that  if 
he  did  not  succeed  it  would  not  be  lor  want  of  'knick-knacks/ 
but  from  want  of  pluck."  The  rillc  and  double-barrelled  <_rnn  for 
himself,  and  the;  three  muskets  for  his  people,  were  depended  on 
to  provide  the  necessarv  food,  and, had  onlv  tin*  supplement  of 
about  forty  shillings  worth  of  beads,  carried  for  barter.  A  few 
small  packages  of  the  more  important  articles  of  food  for  civil- 
i/.ed  life,  such  as  cofl'ee  and  tea,  a  limited  quant  it  v  of  elothinc, 
left  room  for  the  more  important  things  essential  to  obtaining  an 
accurate  knowledge  of  the  count rv.  A  -extant,  a  chronometer 
watch,  a  compass,  a  thermometer,  and  a  small  telescope  wen-  his 
stock  of  instruments.  The  onlv  books  he  carried  were  a  ''  Nau- 
tical Almanac,"  "Thomson's  Logarithm  Tables,"  and  a  Bib'e. 
A  small  tent  for  his  house,  with  a  sheepskin  mantle  and  houx->- 
rug  for  furniture,  and  lastlv  his  magic  lantern.  His  attendants 
were  twcntv-scven  men,  belonging  to  the  different  tribes  a  :- 
knowledging  the  Makololo  authority. 

Thus  attended  and  equipped,  the  traveller  left  the  town  of 
Linvanti  on  the  llth  of  November,  1S").°>,  to  embark  on  the 
Chobe.  The  purpose  of  good  was  the  strength  of  his  heart;  the 
results  were  with  (Jod.  Approaching  the  river  from  Linyanti 
the  partv  traversed  a  portion  of  the  countrv  where  Livingstone 
and  Oswell  had  been  three  years  before.  Thev  j)assed  through 
the  wild  where  Mr.  Oswell  had  nearly  Jo-t  his  life  on  that 
occasion.  This  gentleman  had  followed  an  elephant  into  the 
dtMise  thornv  growth  which  borders  the  river,  when  suddenly 
he  discovered  the  monster  had  turned  about,  and  was  rushing 
madly  upon  him.  Vainly  the  hunter  tried  to  force  his  trem- 
bling horse  through  the  thicket :  there  was  (>nly  a  moment,  when 
he  was  dashed  to  the  ground  bv  the  frightened  creature  as  it 
bounded  aside.  It  seemed  impossible  that  he  should  not  he 
instantly  crushed  beneath  the  feet  of  the  tremendous  assailant. 
who  passed  over  him  in  the  instant.  The  escape  was  marvellous. 
It  is  only  a  glimpse  of  the  perils  of  the  place,  perils  which 
must  be  hazarded  everywhere  in  this  strange  wild  land. 


g3  THK 

The  river  on  which  tin-  slender  ranovs  were  launched  was  a 
IKJOF  exchange  for  tin-  lair  of  the  lion  and  tin-  tramp  of  the 
elephant.  It  entertained  an  < •neiuy  a-  dreadful  a-  either.  The 
/iip|M>|M»tamu-  i-  not  p-nerallv  a  hold  a— ailant  <>t'  man,  hut 
\vhere  tlien-  are  a-  maiiv  a-  inte-t  thi-  -trcam  it  i-  hardlv  po--i- 
l>le  to  avoid  contact  with  him.  The  tinv  boat-  mav  at  anv 
moment  -j-lide  into  the  inid-t  ofa  sleeping  herd,  and  be  suddenlv 
d:L-h'-d  t..  piece.-.  JJe.-ide-  tin-re  are  alwav-  certain  individuals 
of  the -jMfies  lurking  alxillt  in  Imielv  I-hiiiaeli!i-h  an^er  which 
-pap-  no  living  tiling.  1  he  hip]M)|x)taiuus,  tlniii<jli  e<tnfnie<l  to 
the  AlVi'-an  continent,  i-  found  in  all  part-  of'  it.  and  i- ireiiernlly 
of  tremendous  H/e,  thotlirh  it>  >ln>rt  le-js,  hardlv  lif'tin^  it-  Ix-llv 
from  the  ground,  cut-  otl'  it~  height  ;  it-  Ixxlv  i>-  larjjf  a-  that  of 
the  eh  -pliant .  It--  liiiL'e  inutith  opens  like  a  cave,  and  i-  fur- 
n-i.-hed  with  ma— -ive.  fright  In  1  teeth,  formidable  enemie-.  to  the 
tfrowiii'_r  ^rniin  and  lnckle->  lioatman.  It  is  strietlv  jjrepiriou< 
in  it-  hahit.-,  and  do/in^  la/ilv  through  thedav  (jiiit-  it>  river 
haunt.-  at  niirht  in  -eareh  of'  (ooil.  Sometime-  it  exhibits  a 
jHM-nliarlv  happv  mood,  -purtin^  like  a  luainnmth  kitten  in  the 
vieldini;  element.  At  other  time-  th«-  e\-il  -pii'it  ri-e-  and  it 
bit«-  and  kick-  -nlleidv  a-  a  demon.  (  )ii.-e  an  airjrv  m<  nil-cr 
of  the  race  pur-lied  the  attendant-  of'  Livingstone  far  awav 


tu-k-  in  th«'  !'•_••-  of'  native-  \vho  had  barelv  e-.-aped  a  horrid 
death.  It-  thick  hide  i-  a  formidable  shield,  even  against  the 
-harp,  h'-avv  lance-  of  the  coiintrv.  lint  it-  tlc-h  i-  healthful 
a. id  very  highly  c-t^-med  f..r  f..,,d. 

The  (  'hobe,  from  Linvanti  to  it-  confluence  \\  ith  the  I,eeam- 
bve.  i-  e\e,  ,.,liii_r| v  toffuoii-,  and  though  deep  and  wide  ofl'er- 
but  -mall  temptation  to  navigation.  Manv  village-  are  pa--ed 
"ii  i'-  b'ink-.  AM  "f  tin  m  were  ivadv  \\ith  the  -up|  he-  \\lneh 
had  IH  en  order--.!  by  Sekeletu  tn  IM-  in  \\  ait  in-..'  for  I  >r.  Livm- 
-!"!ie.  'I  i.e  bank-  are  liijh  and  crowned  v.  ith  manv  lo(t\ 
?P'--,  uho-e  branch.-  t-mpt  the  travell'T  \\ith  their  |»  ndant 
o'l'ernr_'-  <  •!  van.  .'j-  f  rn:t  -. 

At  t!ie  confluence  ,,f  the  river-  the  partv  -pent  a  ni^lit  on  the 
i-!and  Mpana.  and.  turning  uji  the  L.-cambye,  landed  at  S->hcke 
wn  the  I'.'rh  (,}'  November. 


CIIAPTKK    V. 

TO    HALONDA. 

8*«heke— Sekch-tu's  I'nlii-y-  Mi-^i'inary  \Vnrk  — Wanting  in  HfliijiiHH  I<!MW— 
1>  11  tics  i >f  M  i-Monary—  Tin1  l.iviiuiliyr  -l!i|>|>'>|»>tutni  Mr.  <  'uininiii1.''-  A'h  <-n- 
lurr  l,ivin:.'Moiir's  Mra  "I  l.i«'ii-  Anil'TM'ii  Li. in  ( 'uiit'ii-nl- -  l-'r\i-r-  1'r.i- 
traclftl  I'liui'lcninr  NYws-  I.iviir_M'>nr's  \Vi.-c  Plan  (.ilmnta-  I»caili  tiy  .1 
I. inn  Tin'  <  'amp  -  <  '<>"!<  and  I.anmlry  Work  Humanity  of  l.ivinir-loiif. 
Hi-yonil  I.il ta- -('<nira::<'  — FiiM  Art  in  ISalmi'la-  'I'h.- I.v,-l,a  Want  ul  <  ,aii  «: 

—  r.iiH'alo  Hunt      ('.ullal'i  ami   tlirrr  Linns  -Maiuliari    Mrrrliant-  —  Maiinik-i 
Tnwii  'ii'Sliintc  -   Fa»liimi».  <•!'  Ankle  Ilin^s     A  I'.lark  >(•.,], |      Maiit-nk..'-  I>r.  ^ 

—  I-'CVCT,  Kain.  Ilun'jvr   -I>ark  Forf>ts— Delays— Invitation  at  la-t     Mnlii-i  i.; 
Clianns     A    S.il.li.-r     Mal.m.Ia    Fa-liimis  — Full     r//dn->    of    Halun.Ia   J.a-ly - 
liali  UP  la  ( ifiitlfinun— II  cail-ilress— Salutations — Maiifiiko'^  Kiiulno-. 

SKSIII-:KH  l>y  the  [.ccaniliyc — "tlic  \vhite  s;iii(l-l);uil<s "  1  .- 
"  tlie  lar^'c  river  " — \vas  the  city  of  a  brother-in-law  of  So! 'it  nan  , 
nanu'd  ^^l>^i:u)t^al)^.  Its  lar^c  population  was  roprcsontati' c 
of  the  Makololo  dominion.  All  the  conquered  trilxs  \vc  v 
represented  there.  Kaeh  «»f  them  had  its  own  head-ma  i. 
though,  dl'  cour-e.  thev  all  reco^ni/.ed  the  hiuher  authority  <  t' 
Sekeletii.  1  here  \vei-e  little  things,  however,  eonstantlv  occur- 
ring, as  there  were  all  thridi^h  hi-  country,  which  indicated  that 
the  yon n^  chief  had  ""t  'he  i-e^ard  of  the  peoj»lc  which  they  had 
been  j^lad  to  cherish  tor  his  lather.  'There  was  a  u'rcat  ditfer- 
enee.  Sebitnane  had  be.-n  a  wise  man.  and  under  him  the 
various  tribes  had  been  held  p'ntlv  and  linnly.  Ib1  was  fully 
informed  of  the  minutest  details  in  the  u'overn incut  of' the  yarioii- 
tribc^,  and  made  the  under  chief-  love  and  fear  him  alike. 
Sekeletn  was  not  like  him  :  the  petty  chid-  >oon  Ibund  out  hi- 
inattention  and  incapacity.  The  father,  with  old  Roman  policy. 
obliterated  all  distinctions,  and  made  hi-  subjugated  province-  a 
part  of' his  country  ;  hi-  subjects  became  his  children.  Sekeletii 
revived  the  Makololo  pride,  and  n.-placcd  the  in-i^nia  of  int'T- 
ioritv  on  the  tribe-.  The-e  tribes  bo^an  to  hate  him,  while 
they  wrre  fearing  him  le-^  and  less.  The  people  would  >ome- 
time.s  defy  the  decisions,  of  the  loeal  chiefs,  with  impunity.  An 


d 


^i  MIS>IONAI:Y  \V<»HK. 

in-taiuv  of  tlii-  o<viirred  while  Dr.  Livingstone  was  in  Seshekc. 
There  li:ul  IMI-U  a  tin-It  committed,  and  in  the  etlort  to  find  out 
tin-  j^uiltv  partv  a  voting  man  \vln>  wa-  sns|Mvtetl  was  Ixmiul 
an«l  e\po-i-d  in  tin-  -corehin^  sun  until  he  -li"uld  make  restitu- 
tion (.r  pav  tin-  line.  Tin-  mother  of  thi-  voim^  man  sei/.ed  a 
hoc,  and,  Lr"ini:  t"  licr  M»U,  thtfUU'netl  t"  kill  anvl»«»dv  who 
-huuld  iiit<-rti •!•<• ;  and  havinj;  rtit  the  cord-  led  him  away  to  her 
1 1  oin  !•.  All  Moriant.-ane  could  do  was  to  -end  \\  ord  to  Sekeletn. 
So  tin-  matter  ended.  '1  In-  rein-  of  ^oVfrnnifiit  wnv  liau^iuj; 
loo-i-lv.  Tin-  lawlos  >jiirit  i~  in  hnniaii  naiurc;  thr  •dij^litt'st 
toleration  of  it  i^  the  tiuv  crrvirc  in  nuthoritv  ihroii^h  wliirli 
in  iiu-xliaustililc  i'ountain  -end-  it-  Mnall-'-i  »tn-ain  ;  a  -treaiu 
which  will  \v«-ar  and  widen  and  deepen  until  -ji-jantic  reKellioii 
lifeak-  u]i  the  foundation-  of'  •jo\-crniueiit  and  Kcar-  th'-ni,  hcl|»- 
le--l\-  M-:ittcr'd.  on  it-  mi^iiiv,  ra_rclul  -urf'ace.  'I'he  hi-torv  nf 
the  \\ild  trilie-  i-  a  ininiaiun-  hi-torv  of  the  wide  world.  The 
law  of  eaii-e  ;ind  etl'ect  i-  ;il>-c,iutc  mid  univer.-al. 

The  diligent  ( 'liri.-tiau  find-  \\-ork  in  everv  place.  Liviu^- 
-l"He  wa-  iniincdiaieK  en;_r:i_:<  d  in  tcaeliinjr  the  people  of  Se- 
-heke  ;  ;md  -Ucli  w:t-  the  re-jieci  \\hji  h  he  uluav-  in-pircd,  -itch 
wa-  the  honor  in  which  In-  \\a-  hcl.l,  that  there  wa-  no  trutilile 
in  'jatheriiiu  -•  vera!  hundred-  of  tin  -e  poof  h< -at In  n  to  ht  ar  hi- 
ir.t-si-^e  from  the  ^r<  at  <  'hi- -f  of  all,  the  "Kini:  of  kinu-." 
Th'ir  temple  \\-a-  Kv  the  river;  the  -hade  an  "  oin-prcadin^ 
c;.nicl-tliorn  tree."  Ilo\\  -\\ .  etlv  -u^j-e-tivc  wa-  e\-erv  l>oiii_di 

of  thi-    liol.le    tr-e,   \\hile    he    I'd^llled    the    |  i|'ol  i;il  M  1  i  t  \"    that    one    like 

it  furni-hed  I  he  t  iml><  r  of  \\  Inch  the  A  rk  of  the  (  'o  \  eiiant  was 
mad"!  No  wonder  the  heari  ofihe  mi  — ionary  wa>  overflowing 
uiih  confidence  in  <i  -d'-  niercv  for  hi-  degraded  audienee. 
I|o\\-  c..uld  he.  either,  find  il  in  hi-  os\n  heart  to  dwell  on  their 
siiifu'.nt  ->  '.'  Ind'-'d,  I  ,i\  iirj-Join-  \\a-  -o  full  of  tend- me--  and 
'•h.ii  it  v,  -o  un\\  illinj:  to  -ee  or  rev«-al  th«-  lileini-he-  «>|  other*, 
that  h.-  hardlv  dra\v-  the  curtain  -!i)'i"i«  nlly  on  the  moral  condi- 
ti..n  r.f  \!ri<-a.  Hi-  o\\n  elevati  d  pnritv  tnrn-d  a\say  troin  the 
-•a.Mi:int  . -on -nption  al'oiit  him  \\itli  -1!-!:!  pity.  I  !••  only  -ay 
that  th«  iv  i-  corruption,  th.it  t!,,  r-  i-  -'•  •''.'.!,  and,  cr\  in^  to  the 
w,,iM  for  help,  \\oj-k-  on  \\jth  the  •  i.-  r::y  of  d<  -vol  ion,  almo-t 
<t\  d-  -j  ail',  h-  alin..'  and  lift  nr_'  up  tin'  p-  »p!e. 

Tie     MaKololo    \\«re    -in.:ular!v    \\antiii''    in    reli-ioii-    ideas, 


NO    RELIGIOUH    IDKAS.  »,j 

and  though  quite  rcsjHX'tfu]  ami  euriou.s  enough  to  be  att< ntive, 
they  would  put  tin-it*  questions  in  Midi  ab.-nrd  confu-ion  of  tin- 
ridiculous  and  solemn  that  the  missionary  needed  to  exercix- 
constant  \vatcliftilness  over  his  risible  liiculties.  As  there  wen- 
no  altars  to  IK-  overthrown  by  Christianity,  there  wen-  no  pn- 
judices  again-t  it,  exee|)t  such  a--  hearts  naturally  depravrd 
bring  forth,  or  such  as  seemed  supported  hv  some  social  regula- 
tion or  individual  habit.  Therefore  there  wa.-  a  ready  a»ent  to 
the  teachings  as  doctrines  ;  an  assent,  however,  which  amounted 
to  very  little  so  far  as  the  actions  of  the  people  went.  Jiut 
even  among  these  people  there  are  those  who  positively  re-i.-t 
the  truth.  Some  villagers  put  all  their  cocks  to  death  becau.-c 
they  crowed  the  words,  "  Thing  lo  rapeleng/'  "  Come  along  to 
pravers."  The  nearest  approach  to  worship  to  be  found  in  thi> 
region  was  the  habit  of  paying  speeial  attention  to  the  new 
moon.  This  was  watched  for  with  all  eagerness,  and  its  lir.-t 
appearance1  was  hailed  with  loud  acclamations  and  pravers. 
Even  the  attendants  of  Livingstone  were  accustomed  to  invoke 
the  favor  of  the  new  moon  on  them  and  their  nuuter  during 
their  journey. 

The  duties  of  a  faithful  Christian  teacher,  though  found  most 
largely  in  presenting  the  gospel  and  seeking  the  immediate  sal- 
vation  of  souls,  have  yet  a  range  which  comprehends  all  the 
well-being  of  man.  It  is  not  a  reproach  if  a  minister  is  instru- 
mental in  reforming  society  or  government.  It  is  not  out  of 
place  for  him  to  strike  oil'  any  yoke  of  oppression  which  galls 
the  necks  of  the  people.  It  is  not  a  mean  service  which  intro- 
duce* svstems  and  regulations  that  bring  order  and  peace  to  the 
community.  Those  unobtrusive  elforts  of  Dr.  Livingstone, 
which  left  their  results  intenvrought  with  the  heathen  code-, 
were  among  the  most  difficult  and  telling  of  his  works.  Thos-e 
examples  and  conversations,  which  left  their  imprc>sions,  in- 
definitely even,  on  African  sneietv,  are  the  unrecorded  but 
imperishable  testimonies  to  his  .-incerity  and  real  greatness. 

The  idea  of  compromise  in  times  of  dispute,  of  men-v  to  the 
offender;  thoughts  of  internal  improvement  and  commerce ;  new 
methods  of  reward  and  punishment  ;  all  the  varietv  of  matters 
which  a  wise  and  intelligent  Christian  would  think  of  in  -urh 
:\  community,  opened  a  Held  which  this  truly  great  man  was 


92  J.KKAMIIYK    IN    SIMMS*:. 

gladlv  ilisj*>.-<-«l  to  enter,  and  in  which  hi-  -insular  influenofc 
will  liii'jt  r  through  all  tin-  opening  hi-torv  oj'  that  continent. 

The  journey  up  the  rivir  fp.::i  Se-h.ke\\a-  a'.on^  the  same 
Kplendid  I  ,«-eani!>\  ••  u  hieh  we  mention. -d  in  a  firiner  chapter. 
The  broad  -nrt'ae,-,  the  rapid-  and  \\ild  f.i!!-  \\t-r«  .  «>f  course,  the. 
same,  o:ilv  the  d'-ep  lirnwn  hue-  of  \\mi.r  had  vi.-hled  to  tho 
^or._,,.,,u,  -iimmer.  The  thick  _'p-eii  f-lia^e  of  the  maje-tir 
tree-  \\a-  varied  and  enriched  bv  a  wonderful  wealth  ot'  fruit, 
while  strange,  lar_re  flower-  "f  peculiar  lieantv  \\.-re  I'vrrywhcru 
lil-.e  j.  \vel-  in  the  \vrdiire.  '1  he  tiip--t-  \\.re  full  of  bird.-.  1  he 

p'litl >in-_r  «lo\-e-   had    tin  ir  ne-i-  ju-t   o\-«-r  the  ni-hinir,  roar- 

i:t_T  t.-rr.-Mt-.  The  Ibi-.  ju-t  like  t  hi  -<•  \\  hi-  it  In  Id  old  l''i_ryp  • 
t:a:i  bn-a-t"  in  -acred  au'<-.  and  found  tin  ir  ImTionil  Craves  PI 
.-ta:- !v  io!.i!>-.  wa-  -inin_r  in  it-  wonted  i-o]at:on  on  the  bap.1 
j>  -iiit-  ot'  -oine  withcp-d.  bp.l^cn,  braii'-hl- --  trunk.  Tl  e 
-:ii-_ru!ar  little  "  hainiiii-rin^  iron  mi'_rht  !»•  -•  .  n  -ittin^  on  the 
ba<  k  ot  ill.  hid'-oii-  cr«n-odile,  or  jn  r<  h«-d  m-:dc  hi<  cavenioi  s 
jaw-,  fjuietlv  picking  the  mon-t.-r'-  t'-'-th.  The  (inv,  ro^ui-'i 
pai'rot  Nsa-  tla-hiii'_r  about  in  the  -unniv- like  a  living  finenl  I 
ui:h  \\  in_'-  oj'  urold,  -lii"-kin_r  tin-  ear\si;h  a  \  oi.-,-  i  hat  -.-enic| 
to  1..-  d. -liberate  mock. TV  of  the  eye's  d.-li-ht.  Tin-  vari-n- 
-ji.i-!'-  of  IJ-hiiiLT  bird-  and  nainele--  -oni'-Ier-  of  rare  hii.  - 
\\.-r--  al'.sa\-  pre-riit,  \\hile  rv.-rv  no\\  and  then  a  moii-t.-r 
a;.._rafor  i-ame  -p!a-hni'_r  Irom  hi-  -unnv  perch  into  the  -tr.atn, 
or  -Mine  unlortuiinte  ^uana  on  a  pro|i-eiin^  boii_rh  fell  a  vi'-nm 

t"  Hi"    !•  ad\    -iM-ar   of  a    nati\'i  .  and    dro|ipin<r    into    (he  .didni" 
i  i  i       — 

b-.at  \\  i-  -i'1/ed  a-  choice  ].r.  ,\ -|-;,  n\  \'«r  an  e\-i-nin_r  meal.  Thi- 
a::iina!  i-  of  (hi-  li/ard  tnl»-,  and  -J:PI\\-  -o;n.  tum--  to  the  length 
i-f  four  "i-  live  I'e.-t.  It-  -!ro[r_'  coat  n-i-t-  blo\\-.  and  even  the 
f-r f  lire-arm-,  but  it  fill-  In-lpl'---  if  a  -traw  i-  put  in  its 

ipopotann    \\ep-    pa— i1'!,  and  it   wa.-  amu-iii'j 

:fll!      III.   Illb. T-     .if     (he     funili.  -     pep-h.-d     o||     (he 

ulder-    ot    the;r   dam-,    \\hde    the    t  r.  m.  ndoii-    puflin^ 
'  -  i  r    rumbl.d    around     like     mini  tin:-. •    thunder.       Mr. 
'    .  M.  e   .a-;,,     ,,],   i  hi    lair  <  f  li'iir  of  t  h.  «e  -insular  cr<  a- 

oi!  .  a  i.a/%  n.-iini::/  on  the  bank-  of  the  |.imp..p...  Th<* 
ii  •  kin_'  thp.u.di  the  -.',ai!  nf  ri'-'l-  alarm,  d 

'.le-m,  and  ali    lour    ri:*h.,i     int..    (he   «ha!!o\v    -tream.  and    went 


HIPPOPOTAMI'S.  «.»3 

trotting  toward  deep  water.  The  hunter,  with  ijuick  aim, 
wounded  a  large  cow,  the  lull  striking  the  >Uull.  The  animal 
connueneed  plunging  furiously  round  and  round  in  a  fivn/v  of 
agonv  ;  u  second  hall  only  increased  her  misery  and  1'urv. 
Anxious  to  bring  his  game  nearer  the  land,  .Mr.  ('umming  then 
threw  oil'  his  heavier  clothing  and  plunged  into  the  \\ater,  and 
armed  only  with  a  long  knife  rushed  upon  the  beast  ;  sei/ing 
her  short  tail  he  vainlv  trieo!  to  steer  her  landward.  The  tail 
was  a  poor  rudder;  cutting  a  slit  in  the  .-trong  hide,  he  found  a 
securer  hold,  and  ultimately  brought  the  huge  behemoth  to  the 
shore,  when  it  required  the  full  strength  of  a  brace  of  splendid 
oxen  to  land  her.  She  measured,  bv  his  account,  live  full  feet 
a(H'os,s  the  bodv.  Floating  along  this  stream  the  interminable 
roar  of  the  lion  forces  that  animal  on  our  thoughts  continually, 
and  not  unfretjuently  his  majestic  form,  pacing  through  the 
neighboring  brush  and  matted  reeds,  excite,  .s  the  deepest  interest. 
It  is  barely  possible  that  the  great  explorer  whom  we  arc  follow- 
ing through  these  wildernesses  was  hardly  the  man  to  rightly 
estimate  this,  or  any  of  the  ferocious  monsters  of  the  land. 
Livingstone  was  not  a  hunter;  while  not  wanting  in  skill  or 
courage  to  meet  lions  or  elephants,  he  had  no  delight  in  the 
field.  I(is  mi-sion  was  with  men;  his  lesson  must  be  one  of 
kindness;  he  must  inculcate  a  loftv  moral  courage;  necessarily 
almost,  his  habits  of  thought  and  life  taught  him  indilTerence  to 
all  that  was  purely  animal  ;  he  could  not  appreciate  the  leaimvs 
in  these  wild  creatures  which  filled  other  men  with  awe  and 
wonder,  lie,  for  instance,  oiilv  thought  of  the  lion  as  the  ^reat 
dog  of  the  forest  ;  he  could  discover  no  majesty  in  his  roar,  no 
special  dignity  in  his  bearing.  He  was  quick  to  perceive  what- 
ever was  gentle  and  loving  and  intelligent,  but  the  sterner, 
wilder,  cruel  features  did  not  impress  him  as  they  would  men 
generally;  and  though  he  mav  have  been  correct  in  his  estimate 
of  the  li"n'-  courage  measured  bv  hi-  loi'ty  standard,  it  cer- 
tainlv  posJe— -f--  a  *"/7  ot'  courage  whieli  ha-  made  all  sportsmen 
think  of  lion-hunting  as.  perhap-.  the  mo-t  serious  of  all  the 
delights  ot'  wilderness  lil'e.  It  require-  the  ^realist  coo!ii'-> 
and  skill,  when  once  a  lion  is  wounded  and  thoroughly  a?  :  y  ; 
every  moment  is  preciou-.  Mr.  Anderson,  in  hi-  "  \\  ;!=!-  ot 
Africa,"  narrates  an  incident  in  which  his  want  of  experience 


•»4  THE    LION    (X)NFrsEn. 

was  hanllv  atone*!  for  !»y  hi-  superior  emirate  even.  Thr 
wliich  lie  pnr-ueil  had  taken  refuse,  as  u-ual,  in  a  densely  thick 
juii'^l*'.  wlit-re  onlv  hi-  horriMe  growling  indicated  his  ioeality. 
Tlic  \vrv  f--w  feet  of  reed-  completely  enncfalfd  tin-  lair.  Vainly 
»-triviii'j  to  provoke  tin-  lion  to  advance,  tin-  hunter  at  last 
ventured  ii]i«>ii  tin-  initiators  jmMvedings  inm-elf  l>y  attempting 
to  force  hi-  wav  through  the  \\all,  when  -iiddenlv  he  entered  a 
comiuiralivclv  open  -pace,  ami  met  the  l>la/ing  eves  of  the 
en raired  animal  li\c<l  H|MIM  him.  Tin-  in-taut  allows!  no  aim,  no 
»]-<•  "f  tin-  knil't-  in  hi-  han«l  ;  there  \\a-  onlv  the  mie  awful  ^ij^ht 
of  tin-  raviirj  nion-ti-r,  hi-  cruiifliiii^,  the  fnrii.u-  Ixiuiul,  which 
hv  -oine  kiinl  proviileiKt-  t-arrie^l  him  al»ove  anil  Ix-vond  his 
vietiin.  and  the  alnn-t  U-wildentl  man  frnimliled  auav  Lr'":itc- 
1'ullv,  in  ei>n-ei. iii-ne—  that  hi-  lile  \S:L-  hanllv  hi-  own.  This 
>u_r,_r,.,[-  ;l  -;n_rnlar  iiiet  n>«t>nled  of  the  linn  ;  he  i-  -aid  to  niani- 

ftr-t    eonl';j-iii!i     and     -hallie    \\he||    on    ail\'    aee..|inl    he   overleap-    hi- 

mark  ->r  i:,i--e-  hi-  olij.-ct,  and  i-  never  known  l"  rejM-al  the 
a-— ault  "!i  -ii'-h  oei-a-iiin-,  mile--  foni-d  t"  d<>  «>  in  ^elf-protfc- 
tion  ;  fre.jiji  n;!\'  he  ha-  Keen  -een  t-i  pan-e  alt<  r  >n«-|i  a  liliindcr, 
and,  i-eturuiiij-  «|iiiet!v  t<i  the  .-pot  from  whieh  he  -praiiL',  >t«-p 
i-.tref'tillv  thi- di-tam-e  to  that  \\heiv  hi-  intende<l  vietim  •("<*!, 
th'-n,  l"'Kin_'  up  and  ai'oimd  I  hoii'jht  fiilh  .  -e(-m  to  lie  ali-orlx-d 
in  a  ("iletilatMH.  The  linn  ct-rtainlv  i-  held  m  the  highest 

I'"  >|iei't  l'\  t  h'  Mal.'ii'  ilo  pei  i  j  ile  ;  t  ||eV  ^1'eat  1  V  j  ip  1«  I"  t<>  eliet  .||  |  ih-T 
tip-  laii'1"-  and  :i\'-,  'T  Lr"n-,  e\en,  of  men.  and,  uhile  they  an' 
eajer  t"  re-.-nt  tli--  ~li_'lite-i  in-ult  of  a  iiei^hl» irniLr  tnlte  with 
hi...  -dv  u  a;-,  th"  v  are  in  mortal  dread  of  invading  tin-  dominions 
of  tlis-  niarin_r.  prowliiiiT  mdi\  idiial. 

Thet'ever-,  '.•,  hi.h  had  h'-jnn  ihrirwork  .-mne  time  1>»  (ore, 
\\eie  |,|-i  \  inj  -;i!l  on  ihe  eiier^ie-  of  I ,  i  \  i  1 1  ^- 1  o  n«  •  ;  all  a  1  o  n ::  ihr 
jo'irn.  \  from  Si--!n  LI-  !).•  \\a-  tortured  l-\  'In-  inuard  tii«-,  and 
t!.«  ]'•!.,!•  aeeomniodat inn-  n|  hi-  "-amp  made  the  m^ht-  a  <jin--- 
tjoii.i''!'  •  vhaiije  lor  e\-en  the  (oil  and  L'larint;  -nn  upon  tin1 
n  •  •  '•  .  I  :.•  !"••  v.  i-  a  ei in «.ii lat  inn,  t  hou-.:h,  in  tin-  k  mdin  •-  •  'I  ln« 
follo-^.r-  Mid  t!i.-  aMentioii-  of  tin  p.  o|,!f  al'«n_'  the  joiite. 
'!!:••:!•  ho-  j,;1  i!  :  v  -A, i  rendered  p«  eiiliarlv  relie-hin^  \<\  thr 

!li'.d'-'\'  \\.'!i  \\hi'ii  It  na-  a'tilid'd.  'Ihr-  nuii'l'  ot  all  ox 
•A  i  .i|!d  •_'(•: i'  •  t'l  I  !  '.  p!  ••-•  I.t  it  to  I  !;.-  -T  ralr_"  r.  P  m.tl  k  i  n_'.  "  I  l>  !  '• 

i-    i  l.n!«-  l.:t  ••!    !•:•  id    :••!•    \..:i."       Notiiin^    i-    pn  tlji  r  in  kind 


UNWELCOME    NEWS.  flf, 

ness  than  unconsciousness.  A  truly  generous  deed,  done  »o 
naturally  that  the  dependent  one  hardly  knows  it,  is  l>enev<>- 
lence.  It  is  a  pity  that,  with  their  progress  in  other  matters, 
men  progress  so  nipidlv  in  appreciation  of  thcm.-elves  and  the 
intimate  of  their  own  works. 

At  Nameta  very  unwelcome  news  was  waiting  for  Dr.  Liv- 
ingstone. An  nnele  of  Sekeletn,  named  Mpololo,  who  inaiii- 
tained  a  sort  of  ascendency  in  the  Barotse  valley,  under  a  >pirit 
of  revenge  for  some  former  wrong,  had  sanctioned  a  foray  of  a 
Makololo  party,  headed  bv  one  Leriino,  into  the  territory  ot  the 
Jld/oiida.  Lerimo  had  destroyed  several  Balonda  town-,  and 
taken  a  number  of  the  subjects  ol'an  under  chief  named  Ma-ik» 
prisoners.  This  invasion  of  the  territory  on  which  Living-tone 
was  about  entering,  by  the  tribe  with  which  he  was  .-o  nearly 
associated,  and  which  was  furnishing  his  guides  and  e.-eort, 
rendered  his  situation  exceedingly  unpleasant,  particularly  as 
the  desolated  towns  lay  along  the  very  route  which  he  inu-'t 
follow.  Sekelctu  had  been  careful  to  guard  against  any  su<  h 
embarrassments  of  his  guest  and  his  father's  friend,  by  issuing 
po.-itive  orders  on  the  subject,  prohibiting  all  such  foravs,  and 
Mpololo  had  transgressed  his  orders.  This,  however,  did  not 
make  the  matter  botter.  At  Litofe,  a  lew  miles  higher  up, 
there  was  news  of  a  fresh  foray,  which  had  to  be  disbanded  bv 
sending  a  messenger  in  advance  of  the  party.  On  reaching  the 
to\Tii  of  Sekeletn's  mother,  where  Mpololo  was,  tin'  mi.-sionarv 
required  them  to  place  the  prisoners  \v ho  had  been  taken  bv 
Lerimo  in  his  charge  to  be  returned  to  Ma-iko,  as  a  proof  of  his 
friendship  and  as  an  evidence,  too,  that  the  whole  responsihilitv 
of  the  invasion  lav  with  a  pettv  chiet'  who  would  be  held 
accountable  by  his  master.  Bv  this  means  this  wise  and  patient 
man  was  able  to  avert  probably  a  cruel  war.  Mpololo  wa-  par- 
tictilarlv  generous  of  the  propertv  he  had  in  charge,  and  fill'  .1 
all  the  orders  of  Sekeletn  for  the  partv  with  a  good  irrace  :  so 
that  Livingstone  left  Naliele  in  possession  of  fifteen  fine  o\en. 
eight  of  which  were  for  riding  purj)oses,  the  others  for  slau^ht'  r 
or  presents  as  occasion  mi^ht  rei|iiire.  Thev  \vere  at  Lii>ont:i. 
the  border  town  ot'  the  Makololo,  on  the  17th  ot'  iVecmber. 

During  the  delay  which  was  necessarv  at  "Lihonta  the  doctor 
luul  abundant  iu<e  for  his  skill  in  the  healing  art  :  tlx1  levt  r  w;u- 


'•*'  THE   CAMP. 

prevailing  hnth  amoni;  tlic  inhabitants  of  tin-  town  niul  his  own 
|Hi>ple.  He  had  verv  little  re^ird  \<<r  the  native  niethiMl  of 
treating  this  di-ea-e,  \vhieil  he  I'XJMTU'Iiettl  hilll-elt,  on  one  <>cca- 
Mnii.  t<>  I*-  a  pnx-< —  of  "  charming  <>\\<-  wiruti!i«~illv,  while  he  in 
utewed  in  vap<ir  hath-  aii'l  -iiiok.il  like  a  red  lierriiii:  over  irreen 
twi--."  Ill-  'j.-ntler  ami  -uivr  t  realm* -nt  wa-  ->nn  in  <_Teat 
ileinani]  aii«l  lmnleiie<l  him  with  a  lull  praetiee.  »/..-»///,«,•  «.t'  ( <mr«e. 
!!••  had  al-n  oeea-inn  l'»r  Hir_rieal  -kill.  A  partv  »l  natives 
\v  re  f,  ijvi-d  in  Lr<»  after  a  Ixild,  <le|»r«ilatini:  li"ii.  Thcv  inu-t 
in--'  t  tln-ir  LTaiiH-  in  dii-iT  ijiiartrr-  than  tin-  <-i\  ili/'-«i  hunter,  li>r 
tin-  -jK-ar  ami  knit'e  <>r  eluli  nm-t  <!••  the  wurk  "t'  \«> \\ih-r  and 
l-nli.  Il  \ia-  an  unlilekv  dav  for  one  |nM.r  lillou,  \\ln>  \\a- 
!>ri>nirli!  h-'iiie  \\ith  the  Imiie  of  hi-  thiL'h  eni-hed.  M\'I-II  the 
white  man'-  ehanus  were  illie<jiial  tn  tin-  i»i-a-i'»n.  Tliere  i-. 
ae.-i.;-  1 1 n._r  to  Living-tone,  a  virn-  al»'Mt  th-'  teeth  of  (he  limi 
\\hieh  •  .eea-ii  in-  jiaintul  i  ii  ll  an  i  mat  n  <\  \ .  and  the  wmnid  nt'  hi- 
(•••th  "  r-  -•  inlil«--  a  Lrnn-ht>t  \\mind."  It  i-  ^em-rallv  ii»ll<>wed 
1-  '  a  Lrr--a!  il«-al  <  >\'  -!•  i(i^hiir_r  and  di-'-harje,  and  it'niie  i-  -o  Inr- 
(;  Had-  a-  (n  e~eajie  \\itli  lil'e.  tlie  injiii'v  llillnu-  him  all  ihrmi'jh 
Ii  '••  in  j»f|-i"«lii-al  pain-  almin  the  wounded  par!. 

P.. •}!•:•.•  t'pl!M\\inur  niir  hem  away  I'rnin  the  |n\ ,  i\  vall--v  nt'the 
lUr"f-.-.  "ii  hi-  (ramp  t<»  the  -.-a,  \s'e  \\ill  l""l\  _iu-(  nne.'  nn  (he 
h ••tii'-  !]••  ni^liiK'  inipri'vi-ed  alniiir  the  lank-  nt'lhe  !i.\(  !\  !.,•,-- 
,r  il.vi  .  It  i-  tn  In-  feineinheCiHl  that,  while  hi-  |>arl\  an-  all 
»  lij.i-(-  ..f  S  keletu,  i«nlv  twti  are  real lv  M:ik"lnl".  '1'ln-re  are 
i  pp--eii(afive-.  nt'  -everal  siilii'-<-t  i!'il«-.  '1  In-  little  c;iinp  pre- 

-     p.t-    a!!     ill'-     "I'd'  T     n)'     larjJI'C    "lie-      III      fe^lnll-    111'"!'''    eld  l^llli'l  led, 

\\!,'!---    human    t'->e-   demand    (he  viu'daiiee.       A    lilth-  -j-vp-\    t<  nl 


•"••n  the  tv'."  (rn-tv  Mak"l"I".  \\h-i  have  tin-  p"-i  "!'  h"ii..r. 
n:i  1  !,..'•!  hi-  pn  i-inii-  lil«-  in  -a-  r-  d  t  ru-t .  Al>«u'  tii'-nairnw 

!••!    •'•     l,.,\.,    t'»rni    a   ',\a!l.       A'T ih"    enlraiiee    ih.    l.i;iiilul 

I.-.:' I  I' -:i' :n:in,  M"-hanana.  i-  l\  nr_r,  hi-  "'AII  l»"iy  •i\'ii  tn 
t'.i'-i  '!.•  '••}•  •.•.  h'-'h  \  i"l'-ii'-'-  iiui-t  jia--  thrnii_di  t"  r>  :i'  h  h:.i 
h  .•!•!•.  \'r».ii;  (hi-  i' ni  tic-  riid--  I'l'M-h  -h'd  .  anaiiL'-d  in 
h  •:  rip«-.  iii-irk  (!(>•  r«--(  in_r -p.laei  -  ••!'  (h--  aM.-ndanli. 

-i  para1. d  a- •  •••!":/  '..  'h.  ;r  (riln -.  \\"  ii  hin  t  h-  •  if.-tmil'i  n-nef 
"!  I  h  ,-!•••.•  '  !:•  •.  •  1 1  ai  •  - 1  a  IM  i  i  ir.;  ;  a  IP  1  -ninet  iini  -,  I  urk  in-.,r  in 
the  -i..td'i-A  -  "t"  :!.••  '!'•-.  ih'i-  i-  a  -(•  althv  hea-l  ••!'  pr-  \  ;  In- 


AM)    LAUM)UY-.MAII>S. 


1)7 


glassy  eyes  may  IK;  se<ii  shining  in  the  firelight,  or  his  deep 
growl  provokes  an  oath  from  his  almost  :LS  savage  neighbor 
under  the  shed.  When  the  clear,  full  moon  looked  down,  the 
fires  were  allowed  to  hum  low,  and  leave  to  its  loudv  guard  a 
scene  picturesque  as  could  he,  for  the  angels  to  look  on,  and 
(iod's  benediction. 

Among  his  followers  Livingstone  selected  some  who  were 
instructed  in  a  few  of  the  simpler  mysteries  of  the  white  man's 
culinary  system.  Others  he  taught  the  process  of  restoring  his 
travel-stained  linen  to  its  virgin  purity.  The  ready  willing- 
ness of  these  faithful  men  to  do  him  service  helped  them  greatly, 
and  soon  thev  did  their  new  duty  with  a  skill  which  might 
have  provoked  the  envy  of  cooks  and  laundry-maids  "  to  the 
manor  born."  The  experience  of  Dr.  Livingstone  sustained 
his  refined  instincts  and  early  lessons  of  neatness,  in  teaching 
h'm  to  hold  fast  the  distinctions  of  civilization  in  all  the  habits 
o'  life  as  tar  as  could  be,  even  in  the  heart  of  the  most  ignorant 
it>  id  degraded  continent.  The  barbarous  people  will  hardly 
s!  niggle  toward  a  higher  life  whose  customs  are  readilv  aban- 
doned, like  the  hues  of  the  chameleon,  lor  the  demands  of  a  new 
!t  i-alitv.  The  affairs  of  every -day  life,  like  eating  and  dressing, 
a,  e  the  most  striking  features  of  civilization  in  the  eves  of  the 
uncivilized,  and  about  these  their  wonder  and  respect  bc^in  ;  to 
el  ange  or  abandon  these  is  to  break  the  young  tendrils  of  their 
confidence  or  admiration,  and  cancel  all  claims  on  their  disciple- 
si  iip. 

It  is  worth  while  for  all  who  think  of'  venturing  on  a  lite- 
work  in  savage  lands  to  remember  that  such  a  man  a>  David 
Livingstone  records  his  testimony,  that  "it  is  questionable 
whether  a  descent  to  barbarous  ways  ever  elevate-  a  man  in  the 
eves  of  a  savage.  And  is  there  a  question  whether  Christianity 
is  mure  a  loser  than  gainer  bv  the  coming  down  of  Christians  to 
join  in  the  doubtful  avocations  and  delights  of  a  worldly 
societv  '.' " 

The  almost  singular  humanity  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  which 
shines  out  >o  beaut if'ullv  in  all  his  career,  comes  strikin^lv  into 
notice  in  his  own  journal  of  events  occurring  a  >hort  di-tance 
above  Libonta.  They  had  halted  and  sent  some  messengers  oil' 
to  the  west,  charged  with  the  duty  of  returning  some  of  the 


ijS  HfMAXITY    AND    O>rHA<;K. 

captivts  to  Makoma.  Tin-  scene  wa-  one  whieli  would  have 
tilled  tin-  heart  of  ('nmininir  <>r  Anderson  "r  Harris  with  >an- 
^uinarv  delight.  H« -r<  1-  nf  splendid  animal-  \\ere  fet-din^  on 
evcrv  -iil«.  HI-  -a\  -  lit-  could  ca-ilv  have  Lr"tt<'ii  within  fifty 
yards  of  them  ;  ''Ut  he  add- :  "  Then-  I  lav,  lonkin.j  at  Ix-amit'id 
poku-,  1'i-h'-.  and  »th<T  antelop» -s  often,  till  inv  IIK-II.  wonder- 
ing what  wa-  tli'-  matter,  came  up  and  fn_rht< -n«  >\  tin-in  awav. 
1  li-lt  a  «l'Hil't  ami  the  aiitclnjMs  <_[«[  tin-  Ix-m-tit  «\  it."  l-]vt-n 
when  he  was  driven  to  u-c  liis^un  in  providing  intnl,  this  m»l>lf 
man  \\a-  ahvav-  -tiiilviiiLT  t<»  tin<l  tin-  {Mfiiliarlv  t:ital  -pot  \vh«-re 
the  de:ith-wonnd  mi^ht  (irodiuv  the  li-a-t  |>«. —  {]>],•  pain. 

The  prin^nsss  up  the  river  lieyond  Lihonta  \va.-<  -l"\v«  r  and 
more  toil-Mine,  l>.-eaii-e  a  divi>inii  of  the  partv  had  to  follow 
aloii-j  on  the  lain!  \\n!i  the  oxen,  and  it  \va.-a  trvm^  path  m- 
ile. -d,  it'  path  it  mav  l»e  ealled.  \\  hi'-li  needed  to  be  iijH-nitl  almost 
i-verv  foot  in  -om.-  part-  of  it  !>v  the  a\e.  Thev  \ven-  not  oiilv 
leaving  tli«'  lovi-lv  valN-v.  liiit  the  emjiire  of  the  children  of 
Sehitnane  t'-r  the  untried  |>alonda. 

It  i-  -o  natural  fir  the  reader  to  heroine  ali-orlied  in  the 
.-train:''  -uiT"iindiii'_r-  of  an  «-.\plorer  ;  hi-  novel  experience-  an. 
<-o  full  of  inlere-t,  that  the  man  himself  is  hardlv  appreeiati-d  a- 
he  -hoiild  he.  It  i-  peciiliai-K'  -o  in  tracing  the  -t<-p-  of  I  M . 
Living-tone.  He  move-  a!otr_r  so  <|iiiet  lv,  calliii-.:  .-•>  litt  le  allen- 
tion  to  him-elf,  that  "lie  almo-t  for^i-t-  the  inealeiilaMe  toil  and 
>ii !l>  rin_r  of  -ij.-h  loii_r  and  tedioti-  marches  through  an  unknown 
land.  And  every  interview  ;md  \  ran-act  i-.n  with  the  native 

chi'-l'-    1-    toM    -o    -illlp!\  ,    -o     de\,,]d      of    :1H      ]••   pre-e||tali"Il.-    of'    the 

dilliciiltie-  :md  p.  I'll-  \\hieh  atlcnd-d  it,  that  one  i-  tempt'-d  (c) 
f  •!•_"  -t  that  it  i-  r.-a!!\'  the  hi-t<>rv  of  a  -in-!'-  alnio-t  d- ti-neele-- 
ni  in  d'-.-iIinj  \\irh  liarlianni-  ehi.  |'-  in  their  own  \\ild  f"|-tr« •-->  -. 
\\  ••  are  partieularlv  -truck  with  th--  l..ft\-  moral  coiira'_'c  of 
L;vm_'-:one.  \\lii-n  we  find  him  l-o!dl\  repr.ivin^  the---  ehi-'f-. 
and  I'IMO-I  dl'tatin.'  to  them  their  duti*  ~.  He  ..eeim-d  t"  h:i\«' 
no  id>  .1  I. in  ti,.,t  i-i_'h'  and  truth  rnu-t  prevail,  and  e\hiliited 
a! i-  -lu'e  |i  arl'---ni---  and  eonlide'i.-e  \\  hi!.-  eoii-cj.  nee  eh-ar  in  his 
devotion  t»  the-e.  Alnio-t  (he  fir-t  aet  \\ithin  the  I'.al'.nda 
h-.i-'l.  r-  \va-  to  -.  n,|  ignite  a  -•  v«  n-  r-  Inike  t-.  M.-.-ilv  |'.,r  allow- 
in_'  the  -ah-  ..f  hi-  p.  ,,j,]e  iur-,  -lavery.  It  i-  trn.-  hi-  me— a-_'e 
wa-  artend'-d  l<v  tie-  r,:nni  -,f  -..mr  eapfi\-e-  wren'-hed  iV'-m  I  ho 


TIIK    BLACK    LKKBA.  <,., 

hand  of  Ix-rimo;  this  only  manifest*  the  kindncs*  of  his  heart 
and  his  wisdom,  and  docs  not  depreciate,  tin;  real  courage  of 
stopping  on  a  strange  territory  and  boldly  denouncing  a  cn-tom 
which  brought  its  revenue  to  a  savage  chief.  There  \^  .-oim 
thing  singularly  Christlike  in  the  progress  of  thi-  great  man. 
as  we  have  followed  him,  and  shall  follow  him,  along  the  riveix 
and  through  the  wildernesses  of  benighted  Africa.  IIi->  coim-cl 
is  alwavs  peace,  his  example  always  kindness,  his  conduct 
always  calm  and  his  spirit  bold. 

This  Masiko,  to  whom  he  sent  his  messengers  from  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Leeba  and  .Leeambye,  was  not  really  a  Balonda 
man,  though  reckoned  now  with  the  Balonda  chiefs.  He  was 

~ 

the  son  of  Santnrn,  the  former  chief  of  the  Barot.se.  Jle  had 
established  himself  bevond  the  Makololo  authority,  and  gathered 
about  him  such  of  the  Barotse  as  would  share  his  fortunes.  lie 
was  included  now  in  the  number  of  tribes  which  recogni/e  the 
paramount  authority  of  Matiamoo.  This  explanation  is  due  to 
the  people  generally  who  bear  the  name  of  Balonda  ;  because, 
while  they  are  more  or  less  cursed  by  the  visits  of  the  Mambari, 
the  popular  sentiment  denounces  the  slave  trade,  and  the 
people  were  often  expressing  their  envy  of  the  Makololo,  their 
exemption  from  its  sorrows  and  degradation. 

From  the  confluence  the  route  toward  Loanda  led  away  from 
the  main  branch  along  the  Black  Leeba,  which  is  described  a.- 
flowing  through  a  region  where  nature  has  turned  artist  and 
di>po-ed  of  trees  and  shrubs  and  rivulets  and  vines  and  ilowers 
in  true  garden  beantv  ;  where  even  the  lowlv  banks  are  terraced 
as  ivu'tilarlv  as  if  to  j (lease  a  fastidious  human  taste.  The  whole 
seem-  is  gentler  than  along  the  Leeambye.  The  Balonda  arrows 
have  taught  their  forest  subjects  caution,  their  traps  and  snaiv.- 
liave  intimidated  the  birds,  and  even  the  fi.-h  are  lewer,  and  the 
crocodile  has  learned  the  tear  of' man.  The  banks  of  the  Leeba 
are  waiting  for  the  botanist,  and  oiler  a  rich  harvest.  Amon^ 
the  trees  rejoicing  the  traveller's  eye  with  their  wealth  of  hlo.-- 
poms  was  one  so  like  the  hawthorn  in  (lower-,  fruit  and  fra- 
grance that  the  sweete.-t  memories  of  other  times  and  dearn1 
scenes  swept  over  the  heart  of  the  wanderer.  Food  wa-  n«t  .--> 
easilv  provided  now  as  aloiiu1  the  Leeambvc.  The  VHUUL:  men 
wore  doublv  interested  in  a  butlalo  hunt.  Dr.  Living-tone  held 


10O  TIIUKK    LIONS    AND    A    WFFAIX"). 

thi.«  aniinul  in  rather  higher  e-ieem  than  tin*  commonly 

Kin'j  of  bea-t>.      Ib-  o.nld    not  bin  !»••  imjuv>Mil    bv  the  rapid, 

n>i-tlr>s  rhariru  of  this  |>o\vrful   animal.      His  Makololo  com- 

panion-. \vh.i  manife-t  a  -»!<-inn  he-iian.-v  in  di-pntin^  the 
rij^lit-  of  thf  li»n,  li'H.'W  al"!!.:  the  Imllalo  trail  ran-lr.->iv 
enough.  He  i-  a  f"e  \s  li'ini  they  uii.l.-i  --land  ;  our  i'«r  \\hieh 
tiit-v  mav  be  |>n'p:tr«tl.  It  i-  rather  singular  \»  ob-rrve  in  \\\\~ 
^n-at  luiulx'rin^  inon«.;cr  th"  .-aim-  <-nniiin  ^  nnl«  a\  <>r-  \»  cln«lc 
th«'  jinr-ii'-r-  \vhi<*h  <ii~tin'_rii!-li  tin-  l"\  ami  tin-  >ta^.  It  i.-> 
trtJf,  h«i\v.-vt-r,  lhat  tin-  biiflalo  ».b-i-rv<-  tin-  .-aiur  .-hiftini:  ainl 
tunnn_r,  "![•  n  il"nl'lni'j  <>n  i!-  trai'k,  and  fn-tjiii-nilv  coiKfalin^; 
it  -'-If  \vithin  a  t'-u  \  :iril~  of  t  IK-  startii)ir-j»oiiit.  \\  In  n,  lio\\  i-vcr, 
it  IH-I-,.III'-  n-ally  tI«-sjM-nit«'t  ami  (•••im  -  'l.t-liinj;  \\iili  n-«-Ulr.«^ 
iinjM-tii'i-itv  i)ji'i!i  it-  :i-<  •ailani,  ii  i-  tin-  IJIMI-  tor  rithcr  >|>ii-ial 

jip.\\.---     <-r     -;n-«-i;il     |i|':i\  •«•!•-.         'I  lti~     I-    tin-    ini'lilrlit     \vlnn     t!ir 

iiati\'i-  '!--\!<  ri'v  i-  exhibited  im-t  admirably.  .In~!  at  tin- 
in-tan:  \'.  ii--n  he  -<-eni-  t»  !"•  a  \'ie!im,  and  the  bi-h«lder  ahno-t 
><  i-'-ai!i-  IM  t'-ri'"i',  the  \(.iiip_r  man  L'hde.-  a-ide  and  -tal-  h;~ 
ei  i-[ii\p  V'-rv  mni'li  after  tlic  fashion  in  :i  Sjiani^h  I'lill-li^ht. 
M  a\  \  ard'iii,  \\  li«i  -liai'ed  eon-ideralilv  t  IM  -JH  .n  inir  I-XIM  rience- 
i'f  M  r.  <>-v.  ••!!.  ineiiti.iM-  \\it!p—  in^  a  lijii!  bi't\\i«n  a  bii:}:(!o 
aid  i!iv-"  !u!i  _T"\\n  li"ii--.  I  In-  ^i-iith-mi-n  nient  mued  \\iiv 
iirr-iiii'  '  the  lni:]'a!i..  \\hii-h  th«-v  had  \\"iind«d,  and  \\*r>-  in 

I  • 

full  -i-jht  "l"  i:.  uli-n  thi-\'  -aw  the  lii.n-  -prin-  fi-«'iu  their  lair 
ar  d  aM.i'-!v  him.  'I  IP-  -jnetaelc  \\a-  aufn!.  Fa-!<  niii'j  t!n-ir 
n,  -_'htv  f.-.  ih  in  th.-  llank-  and  -h"iilder-  of  th.-  I  Millal'  ..  t  he 
t  ii'ei-  t  ;-.  :ii>-:id"il-  h>  .n-  eniihl  I  .e  .-<-eii  i-\e|-[  MIL:  all  1  1  j'ir  1  ear  fid 
-Iri-iijtli  t'idraj  himdoun,  \\inle  their  an_'i'\  'ji-i>\\i-  mingled 
\\ith  hi-  a_"iin/'-il  and  lui':"H-  b-  II1  >\\  inj.  and  h:-  'jijant).- 
h'.in  i  and  -fnij_'l>-  \\hefe  ania/iii_r  and  a'.vful.  Il  I-  ini|«"--i 
b!e  ;  "  ''.I  h'.u  i  he  -iiiLrnlar  :md  niii'i|iial  e.>iite-t  \\'.nld  have 
.•ltd-  d  !'ii'  f-.r  t  In-  !  rn-t\  rill-  -  "!'  i  he  hunter-,  \\  I  M>  fenninai-  d 
(li-  -  "  l'a_'-in_-  a  braei-  i.f  li..n-  and  th-  liinlal--  in  :-i..-ut 


\\ 


"  HE    IS    A    MKUMAN."  ,(). 

mined  to  press  on  without  having  seen  this  ladv.  Tin-  rains 
and  almost  continuous  levers  were  wearing  sidlv  on  the  natur- 
aliv  vigorous  man,  and  he  1'elt  deeply  anxion>  to  advam-r  ;i> 
expeditioiisly  as  pos-ible. 

At  the  confluence  of  the  Lccba  and  the  Makondo  they  found 
tniees  of  the  Manikin  merchants.  These  cntcrpri-ing  mm  arc 
Kitislied  to  hold  their  valuable  trade  with  the  interior  wilds, 
and  feel  under  no  obligation  to  enlighten  their  cu-tomer-  ci»n- 
cernin^  the  world  beyond  the  rivers  which  bound  their  domin- 
ions. They  represent  the  white  men  as  dwelling  in  the  sea, 
These  representations  of  the  Mambari  explain  the  almost  r>-o- 
lute  confidence  of  the  Bahmda  in  the  belief  that  Living-tone 
was  none  other  than  a  merman.  Indeed,  the  hair  of  Living- 
stone was  the  greatest  curiosity.  They  could  account  for  the 
deeper  siiades  of  their  complexion,  because  he  flowed  them  the 
ciT'eet  of  the  sun  and  weather  in  bronxing  his  own  hands  and 
face,  while  the  skin  of  his  breast,  tmexposed,  remained  perfectly 
white.  But  the  hair — thev  had  never  .-ecu  straight  hair.  It 
must  be,  thev  reasoned  ;  "  he  comes  out  of  the  sea.  The  wav  .-s 
have  washed  his  hair  straight.  lie  is  a  merman." 

These  people  arc1  sadly  superstitious;  in  this  they  are  unlike 
the  more  southern  tribes,  who,  it  will  be  remembered,  nuni  i- 
i'ested  hardlv  anything  of  the  sort.  Thev  employ  every  variccv 
of  charms,  and  everywhere  there  are  evidences  of  their  idol 
worship. 

Alter  the  failure  to  accomplish  an  interview  with  Manenko, 
the  party  advanced  as  lar  as  a  village  over  which  an  aunt  of 
that  lady,  named  Xyamoana,  wielded  the  .-eeptre.  It  was  rather 
a  new  tiling  under  the  African  siin  to  be  in  the  power  of  the 
women  ;  but  Dr.  Livingstone  deported  himself  as  uTacious'y  as 
thoiiii'h  he  had  been  an  experienced  attendant  of  the  sex.  The 
u'ood  ladv  who  did  him  the  honors  now  was  bent  on  having  him 
turn  aside  from  the  Leeba  and  allow  her  people  to  conduct  him 
to  her  brother,  who  was  the  invate-t  chief  in  all  that  part  of 
IV.ilonda.  It  was  no  use  to  urge  the  desirableness  of  river 
transportation.  Her  head  was  set.  and  just  in  the  mid-t  of  the 
controversy  she  \\-as  reinforced  by  the  unexpected  arrival  of 
Manenko.  The  odds  were  against  him,  and  the  great  explorer, 
who  had  cut  his  way  through  forests  and  carried  hi.-  oint 


li>2  NnNHlJSTf MK    AND    I.OKHSHJI'. 

npiit)5t  chief*,  yielded  the  eoiitrover-v  to  two  women,  and  began 
preparations  fir  an  awful  march  through  -warnp<  and  Hood-. 
A-  Manenko  a>-umed  to  dip-et  tin-  ex|n-dition,  and  require-;  11- 
t»  follow  her  maj«--tic  leader-hi|>  tor  manv  da\ -,  we  will  take 
time  tor  her  acquaintance.  She  i-  de-cnlx-d  a-  tall,  .-trapping 
and  twentv.  She  wa-  nio-t  ekibomtelv  arraved  in  a  coating  of 
pd  ochre  ;  onlv  that  and  "  nothing  more,"  nn!c--  the  -trand-  of 
ornament.- and  medicine  charm-  aU.ut  her  n-i  k  mav  bee-ailed 
clothing.  The  iinn-cii-tiime,  which  -he  prideil  hei>elf  on,  was 
intendeil  to  teach  her  people  to  de-pis*1  anything;  etl'emmate. 
Indeed,  the  whole  linlonda  j»eople  arc  -in^nlarlv  nej^lip-nt  of 
clothin::  ;  the  women  part ictilarlv  -eldoin  \\ear  an\  thini_r  but 
ornaments,  and  are  .^TII  everywhere  in  frightful  nuditv.  The 
men  are  hanlly  \»\[<  r  arraveil.  and  -eem  equally  fond  of  orna- 
ment.-. The  nio-t  prevalent  in-i'jnia  of  wealth  and  po-ition 
<--.n-i-t  in  the  rin'j-  \\hich  are  unrn  about  the  ankle-.  Sonic 
chief-  put  on  -o  manv  that  thev  \\alk  \\ith  eon-iderable  diHi- 
ei  Itv,  and  are  fop-cd  to  k.-.-p  their  ti-ct  tar  apart.  And  tho-(- 
L'entlenien  \\  ho  ar«  d«--iroii-  to  ap|i> -ar  important  are  often  noticed 
a  — umin-j  the  diilidilt  trait  of  their  better-.  When  I  .ivinir-tone 
-Miiled  at  -eein-j-  one  of  th'-e  gentlemen  walking  a-  it'  hi-  limb* 
Mere  burd'-ne«l,  \\hen  P-allv  there  \\-ep-  onlv  one  or  two  -mall 
rinj-  to  be  -e.  n,  on.-  of'  tin-  people  remarked,  "  '1  hat  i-  the  wav 
thev  -how  •>'}'  their  lord-hip  in  the-e  part-." 

l-'rorn  tin-  \iila_'e  of  \\ainoana,  the  partv  Wcp-  to  abandon 
the  .-in'  M-  and  -ti'il.e  out  into  the  tore-t- ;  and  the  prepanition* 
n  -.  -i--arilv  oeeiipi'-d  -oine  da\  -.  part  idilarl  v  a-  the  -elf-willed 
Maneiil.o  |.r.-.  r\ed  a  nio-t  de-potic  indifference  to  the  impa- 
tienee  of  her  Lfue-t,  and  look  In  r  o\vn  tune  a.-  well  a-  her  own 
m-thod-  in  the  matter.  It  \\a-  e\e,-edinirlv  trviiiLT  to  Li\in^- 

rfoiie,      pdll'-ed      to      the      nieail'-f      diet,     and      exposed      to      (hi-      ll|o-t 

in-  !•  in-  nt   u  ealh' r,  to  be  ;irp--ted  |.\    tin-   petticoat  s_"  >\-i  rnnient  ; 

b:i!   'he   da:l\'  -ite<im«n-    of  "iir    ladv'-    attainment-  MI  the  IMCII- 

i 

liarK  |e-:,ini  lie  art  of  -eulibn^  u  hieli  came  under  h;-  not  i<-e  k«  pi 
him  in  -ul<jeef  ion.  and  he  ei  MI  Id  onlv  O|M-V,  when  -he  m«  t  In-  re- 
bellion bv  vi-rv  qni'tlv  and  anthoritativelv  putting'  h.  r  hand  on 
h:  -  nhoiilder,  and  P-fiiindin^  h:m  of  the  p-adv  "U  bin  i- -ion  .  .f  hi- 
follou-er-,  addi-ij  :  "  NO-V.  mv  litt!«  man.  ju-t  d"  a-  the\-  have 
I'.-itji  ."  Man' nko,  however,  wa-  reallv  kind,  and  did  all  in  her 


MANEXKO   TAKES    COMMAND.  ](,;> 

power  to  render  the  weary  and  sick  explorer  comfortable.  It 
was  not  in  her  power  to  yield  her  will,  perhaps;  that  is  a  hard 
tiling  (or  men  to  do,  and  more  than  should  lx-  expected  of  her. 

With  the  morning  of  January  llth  the  delay  ended.  The 
journey  lav  first  across  a  succcs.-ioji  of  forests  and  lawns,  where 
the  largest  evergreens  were  exchanged  for  the  richest  carpet** 
of  green  grass.  The  singular  little  army  marched  gallantly 
along  through  the  driving  rain — the  queenly  Manenko  in 
advance,  in  her  coat  of  red  grease,  the  picture  of  inde- 
pendence. And  she  led  the  partv  at  a  right  good  pace,  and 
so  steadily  that  thev  were  rejoiced  when  she  would  finally  allow 
them  to  rest.  The  Makololo,  who  were  as  unaccustomed  to 
such  leadership  as  Dr.  Livingstone,  were  lull  of  admiration  for 
this  phenomenon  in  that  line,  and  declared  that  Manenko  was 
"  n  soldier:' 

It  is  the  custom  in  the  Ralonda  country  for  the  men  to  carry 
their  arms,  and  wherever  our  party  pitched  their  tent  they 
were  surrounded  l>v  numbers  of  ferocious-looking  individuals 
with  short  swords  and  quivers  of  the  wickedest-looking  iron- 
headed  arrows.  Thev  did  not  receive  the  same  attentions,  how- 
ever, which  had  cheered  their  way  through  the  Makololo  tribes, 
and  found  none  of  the  ready  hospitality  which  made  them 
almost  careless  of  supplies.  The  missionary  was  made  to  add 
hunger  to  the  record  of  hardships.  Fever,  rain,  hunger,  day 
after  day,  tells  a  story  of  painful  sacrifice,  and  the  gentleness, 
the  faith  and  perseverance  which  could  not  be  overcome,  tell  of 
singular  greatness  and  God's  upholding.  The  houses  are  the 
ordinary  huts,  but  they  are  unlike  the  homes  farther  south,  in 
being  surrounded  by  strong  palisades,  as  if  designed  to  be  fort- 
resses in  case  of  war.  War  does  not  spare  the  enlightened  or 
benighted  :  it  is  everywhere.  The  trees  of  the  forests  along  this 
route  were  of  the  finest  proportions,  such  as  would  almost  turn 
the  head  of  a  lumberman;  but  they  suggest  no  ideas  of  wealth 
or  greater  comfort  to  the  rude  men  who  shoot  their  arrows 

o 

among  their  branches  or  stalk  the  game  in  their  deep  shadows. 
The  gloomy  depths  of  these  forests  seem  to  east  a  shadow  on 
the  spirits  of  the  dark  beings  who  dwell  in  them  ;  charms  and 
medicines  are  found  in  most  unexpected  places,  and  idols  are 
more  numerous  as  the  forests  deepen.  The  idols  of  Balonda 


104 


INVITATION    AT    I.A.-T. 


take  various  -ha]*--; ;  an-  tin1  im>-t  uncouth  romvivable  speci- 
mens of  art.  Sum-  are  intended  to  repiv-ent  animuU  ami 
others  htiinaii  head-  ;  hut  h;i.-te  or  careh-.-.-ne—  -onietinie- .-ati>- 
fies  itself  by  -t-t tint:  up  a  crooked  -tick,  !•«•!',. r,-  which  t<>  IK>\\  in 
wop-hip.  Kven  tin-  tree-  arc  pn-^-ed  into  tin-  -•  r\  ice,  :ni<l 
]»:L—  iii^  alon^r  there  inav  !*•  .-•-.  n  utl'i-rin-j-  of  niai/e  «>r  manioc 
laid  <ni  tin-  hranche-  of  a  -tatclv  niotnia.  \\liil--  lace.-  of  U-a-trf 
or  IIII-M  an-  carv-il  in  tin-  hark  al>.-ut  it-  trunk. 

Tin-  jircvaiiinir  -ujM-r-!  iti..n  c;i-t-  it-  protrction  ovi^r  propcrlv  ; 
tlict't  i-  -cliloni  licanl  <>!  ;  a  iritliiii:  cliarin  <»r  pn-. -c  »\  tm-dicnio 
l»ark  i-  cnoti^h  to  ^uanl  the  mo-t  pn-ci«'U-  articl,--,  li.. \\CVIT 
i'.\jMi-«-il,  trorn  native  liain!-.  <  'ivili/ation  \\i!l  kill  llic  cliann, 
ami  inaiiLTiirate  pri-'-n-.  ( 'iiri-tianity  nu^lil  t"  put  the  cliarni 
in  the  l)i-ca-t-  "t"  the  people.  It  carrie-  a  nieiliciiie  which  i-  a 

hjM-cilie     in    ea-e-    of    cn\  •etolJ-lH  --.          1  he     loV*1     «i'    ( 'liri.-t      111     tie 

heart-  of'  men  "ii'_rlit  to  !»<•  a  .-urer  jn'otectioii  to  their  li-llow- 
than  a  broken  t\vi^  or  -crap  "f  l»ark. 

I'x-f >!•••  tin-  \rlnte  man  could  enter  the  t''\\n  of'  Shinto,  he  \\a- 
obli::'  -I  to  end u re  the  delav  of1  a  te.li.iii-  interchange  of  ine>sai;es 
between  the  f, male  ina-tcr  of'  procecdiiijjs  and  her  loj-dlv  tincl  -. 
Livinu-t""1'  ^a~  v«  \ed  li\  tin-  d.-lay,  becaii-e  he  was  onK- 
then  finding  out  a  \er\-  imp-. riant  leatnre  of'  I'.al.'iida  eivilitv, 
indeed  we  mav  -av  of'  African  civi'iiv.  In  the  Mah"l..!.» 
coiin;rv  he  had  IM.II  ptve(-ded  l.v  the  inc— eiiLTer-  of'  Sekel,  t  u, 
and  found  tip-  \  il!a_r.  r-  al'.\av-  expeetiir^  lo  ni'eive  him  ;  here, 
however,  the  ea-e  wa-  ditlcrent,  and  he  had  fret  jiientlv  fright - 
ened  wliole  coniiniinitie-  l.v  In-  -ndileti  a]>pearanci-  in  jh'ir 

inid-t,    Ite-lde-    the      |I|e,,n\-.-nieI|ee     of'     1 1]  1  -  -  1  11  'J     tile    -I|p|ilie-    \\lliell 

lie -o  much  neede<l.  '1  me  etiijiieite  re.  j  u  i  [-,  -  that  a  travelling 
jiartv  halt  l.ef.iv  entering  a  village,  ami  -•  nd  fif\\-arda  in. - 
-en_'.-r,  .  \plainitr_f  to  the  chief  the  ehai'acti-r  and  i.bji.-t-  of  1,:- 
\i-it'ir-.  It  i-  then  incumbent  on  the  town  to  extend  :'- 
ho-pita'iti' -,  ;ind  th--  ehi'-f  i-  .j'ad  t--  do  tl,,.  hon.ir-  of'  th. 
..••i-i-ion  in  hi-  !•• -l  -tvle.  The  nn\\  illin^  allc^iatici  \\hieh  I  >••. 
Living-tone  -\a-  call,-, I  on  to  i-eiid-  r  the  dil!v-dal!\  ill-  Man.  nkn 

turned  out  a  _- 1  -   ho.,1    t.,  him,  and  eontribut«il  \ •<  rv  nni'  h  t.i 

the  fae.lity  "t  j,;-  j , ,  1 1 ;  p  •  tra\el-  and  plea-ant  intercour-e  ui'l; 
the  in!,. -. 

\\hf-n    the    invitation    at    la-t    eamo    from    Shinte    the    t.artv 


FULL    r.V-IMMXS.  Id") 

advanced  gladly,  and  upon  a  small  vallrv  of  wonderful  U-aiuv 
it  broke  upon  their  eyes,  weary  of  the  deep  -hado'.vs  of  tin 
wood,  like  a  fiiirv  picture.  Gently  meandering  along  the  verv 
centre  of  the  valley  \vas  :i  beautiful  stream,  and  a  little  rivul't 
c'line  in  from  the  west.  There  was  the  town,  embowered  in  the 
splendid  tropical  trees  whose  broad  leaves  lapping  and  woven 
formed  a  splendid  canopy,  and  everywhere  in  the  arbor-like 
grove  the  banana  \vas  seen,  drooping  its  tempting  fruit  ju.-t  over 
the  heads  of  the  people.  You  remember  the  singular  liechnanu 
abhorrence  of  straight  lines:  evervthing,  vou  remember,  wa- 
erooked  j  their  huts  were  round,  their  streets  were  tortuou-. 
The  square  houses  and  straight  streets  of  the  town  of  Shinte 
were  a  delightful  change.  The-e  streets  and  huts,  too,  were 
thronging  with  strange  sights.  The  remarkable  povcrtv  of 
clothing  in  use  in  Balonda  has  been  mentioned,  but  it  mu-t  not 
be  understood  that  this  is  because  of  the  povertv  of  the  people, 
or  their  greater  ignorance  as  compared  with  their  more  -out  hern 
neighbors.  It  is  simply  fashion,  and  you  know  then.'  i-  no 
disputing  on  that  subject:  fashion  is  fashion.  There  mav  be  a 
fashion  of  going  undressed  or  drosed.  The  former  is  the 
llalonda  fashion.  The  skill  which  confines  itself  to  the  adorn- 
ment of  the  ankles  and  head  is  there  displayed  in  mo-t 
remarkable  manner.  Their  otherwise  pleasant  feature-  arc 
distorted  bv  the  pieces  of  reed  which  thev  thrust  through  the 
septum  of  the  nose.  The  hair  is  woven  in  a  great  varietv  of 
patterns:  the  more  common  appearance  is  that  of  horn.-  like  a 
buffalo;  sometimes  there  is  only  a  single  horn  protruding  in 
front.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  styles  is  almost  .-tartling  to 
the  uninitiated  beholder:  the  hair  is  woven  into  a  great  num- 
ber of  strands  ;  these  are  all  so  arranged  as  to  stand  out  from 
the  head,  and  are  fastened  at  their  extivmitie-  to  a  hoop  of 
light  wood,  so  that  the  face  appears  at  a  little  di.-ta'.uv  a-  it'  set 
in  a  painful  sarcasm  on  the  nimbus  with  which  the  head.-  of 
saints  are  surrounded. 

The  men  are  a  little  more  conformed  to  our  idea-  of  deemcv. 
in  that  they  wear  aprons  of'  beautifully  tanned  .-kin.-;  and  tin  ir 
wealth  of  woollv  hair  enable-  them  to  rival  their  -able  lu-i!c-  in 
its  awful  arrangement.  l>oth  men  and  women  are  ea^er  for  all 
articles  of  foreign  manufacture  j  particularly  are  thev  r<>\vtou.s 


Jitf,  HIXK)I>    HKLATIONS. 

of  the  bright  elothes  whieh  an-  -ometime-  e\po-ed  to  their  view, 
and  IIK  ii  or  women  think  them-elve-  splendidly  attired  if  they 
cau  j^et  a  few  fet  of  -ueh  an  artielr  to  wnip  a!><>ut  the  neek  or 
bodv.  Then-  i-  mtieh  regard  paid  to  -alutations  and  the  form- 
iiii;  nf  Jnend-hip-.  Parties  approaching  e;irh  other  an-  expected 
to  -t<M.p  down  and  take  up  -"ine  -and  and  rub  it  on  the  amis 
and  bna-t.  There  are  ^ruilatiiin*  in  the^e  Kilutation-,  however, 
•L«  in  other  mailer-,  (iri-at  eluVf-,  for  in-tane.-,  onlv  pretend  to 
take  up  tlie  -and,  and  do  n«»t  nailv  put  anv  »n  tin  arm-  or 

l»l'ea-t    ;     whel'ea-     '"lie    who     I-    V--r\'      p"llle,    or     de-ire-     t"     l>e     COll- 

-ideri  d  -<>,  eai-ri--  a  -ort  <•!'  white  po\\der  with  him.  and  nilil»i!i«.r 
thai  -MI  hi-  arm-  and  l>rea-t,  e\hil>il-  ii  t'«  the  p<-r-..n  \\liom  hf 
aee.  i-t-  ;  t!i- n.  -!' "'j»in_r  d'>wn,  plaei-;  fir-t  one  die.  k  then  th- 
. •!!!••!•  '>:i  tli-  ^r«'unil,  t!ie  i:n-antime  clapping  hi-  hand-  }«\  I'nlK 

In  manv  ri -JH-<-I-    the  p,  ..;,!.-  (>f  I>;ih>nda  \\on    «ji-c:iil\-  on    tl  e 
:ipprifi:ition    «.('    Livin^-t'iiie.       Their    kindne—    and    manline-- 
a'.d     p"!:t'  ;i   --    \\,-r<-    ni-Te    :i]ipareiit    a-    lie    ln-cniuc    Ketter    ae 
ipiainteil    \\i;li    t!i«-ir    cii-t.-m-.        Hi-    ladv   eaptain    lui-ied    hei  - 

•M'lt      IH>',V    III      IMiil'e    WOlliaillv    .lll!!e-,    mid      \\:i-     Ijlllte     a--ldll"ll-      t    I 

providing  -ti<  !i  t'—d  a-  the  ,j,,,  ;,,r  e.mld  tat.  and  pr»\ed  In  r-e! 
n<>  le--  a  ^i-ntle  liiend    than  a  li"!d  e-enrt.       l''rieiid-lnp-   anion_r 
tiie  Ilalonda  i-  a  i:,:Ut--r  o{    'j^val   imp"rtame,  and   i-    -ealed  wit.i 

a    Il)"-t     -"lelu'i    eerelU'iUV.          Tile    pal'tie-    \\lin     haVe     II-Tecd    t"    lie- 

eoine  partieiilar  (riend-  -it  down  In'titm^  caeh  other;  lH--i«|e 
eaeh  i-  plac-i-d  a  etip  of  lie.  r.  \\  ith  a  -harp  knife  -h'jht  Lra.*ln- 
are  then  ma'ie  in  the  c!a-].ed  hand-,  the  pit  of  the  -tomaeh.  the 
ri_'ht  rliM-k  and  the  f.-n-head  of  ra<-h.  A  Made  of  irra—  i-  then 
j.ie--ed  1'V  eaeh  into  hi-  «>v.  n  Wniind-,  and  the  l>lo«d  i-  \\a-hed 
tr-im  the  'ji'a--  in  the  I  Her.  I  he  parties  then  e\ehanure  the 

•up-,    -o    tint    •  ae!i    -hall    drink    tin-   other'-    M 1.       At'i-r    thi- 

e»Tein..nv  ''"</  <•'•"  /,!',-,<!  /•• /<r//.,/,.v.  'I  he  friend-  .«•!'  <  aeh  \\h.« 
in  r.  'iM-pr.-en;  are  e\p.-et- d  t,,-hare  tlie  I.e.  r.  Them..-t  pr.-- 
e».ii|-  ;_':!!-  are  .  \.-Ka ir_''  d.  and  th'-  liiend-  are  Imimd  t"r  anv 
«•!:!•!_•.  TI,'\  ,  and  are  p'.'d-.d  to  a--i  t  'Meji  other  in  evef\  p«.--i- 
li'e  manner.  \\  ••  •  an  Inrdlv  p:i--  -u.-h  a  eerei:ion\-  \\ith..nt 
f' 'it.  M. '»!;-,_'  (hi-  M 1  "f  Him  l"  ^h<.m  all  < 'hri- 1  ian-  pledge 

t !.-  :i        I  \  ••-   a-     ••'.'•',  I    :i-     t  .'  •  V    ta-te     'lie    em  Mejnat  leal    «  Hie   \\  hir'll 

he         led    h  -    I. :.„,.!.        \\e    .ue    lii-    M 1    relation-    Unnd    in 

ti-Ted    "M!  :a!  :•  .n. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

THROnJH    I.ONDA. 

Reception  at  Shinte's  Town  —The  Introduction—  Private  Interviews—  F.tiqnctte 
of  the  l!al"iida  Love  for  Mothers—  Slavery  Theft  --Maifie  Lantern  —  Rains  -  — 
Iron-Works-  Flooded  Plains  —  A  Chartmnu'  Home  —  |).-:iili  ami  Deflate  Vii- 
hures—Halonda  Ideas  of  a  Future  State  -\Vliat  to  Preach  to  Heathen—  Tn  i- 
blesomi'  (iiiide—  Buriul  of  tin-  Dead  —  Mamlans-  Sioux  —  Pataironiam  —  Meeli  i- 
anas  -  P.alomla  Sunday  \vitli  (^iiendetide  T>eamit'iil  (  'oiintry  —Tin-  I.otemli1  a 
—  Katema  Keeeption—  -Provisions  Pn-M-ntcd  -\Vi--doni  <it'  Kairma  Cattle  — 
P.  in  Is  in  t  'aifi-s  —  liirdsaiid  lit-asts  —  IJirds  and  Spiders—  11  utnun  Spiders  —  1-Vvrs 
A^aiu  --Not  uiueli  Impression  —  Ilwroisiu  of  Livingstone—  Lake  iMlulu  —  Kiv  .  -rs 
Run  Northward  —  Mamlmri  Traders-  Itilluenee  on  Ilorder  Tribe*—  I't'iimr.  !;•. 
of  Pay  tor  Passing  Throutfh  <  'ountry  -  -Kxptvted  to  I-'itrht  —  An  <  >x  (iiven-  \ 
Man  Demanded—  8ii-kness  of  Livingstone—  Mutiny  in  his  Camp  —  Its  Cur«  - 
Men  Repent  —  The  l^uan^o  at  La.*-t--P>ashan:_re's  Tax  —  Cypriano  di  Alinn  '» 
K  indness  —  I'ortiiLruese  Possessions—  Sweet  Sleep  —  Air_rels. 


Ox  the  inoniini^  of  Jaiiuai'y  ITtli  the  spacious  kotla  cf 
Shinte's  town  presented  its  grandest  appearance.  The  kotli, 
we  inav  remark,  is  an  open  space  commonly  reserved  in  tlie 
towns  ot'tliis  part  of  Africa  for  purposes  of  puhlic  interer-t,  and 
renders  service  as  temple,  council  chamber,  or  dancing  hall,  as 
occasion  inav  demand.  The  throne  oi'  the  chief  was  under  the 
broad  leaves  o!  a  splendid  banyan  tree,  which  seemed  almost 
conscious  of  its  dignity  in  spreading  a  eanopv  over  a  chieftain's 
head.  Shinto  was  arrayed  in  his  best.  The  checked  jacket  ami 
kilt  of  bai/e  were  aided  bv  a  crown  of  woven  beads  and  a  waving 
bunch  of  feathers.  Just  behind  the  chief  wore  seated  a  hundred 
women,  and  nearly  a  thousand  men  were  ranged  in  the  broad 
circumference  of  the  place. 

The  guests  advanced  into  the  kotla  escorted  bv  the  subject 
lord  of  the  matron  captain  of  the  wilderness  march,  who  ap- 
proached Shinte  first,  followed  by  Manenko's  people,  who  did 
the  national  obeisance'  in  style.  Dr.  Livingstone  WM-  seated 
under  the  hanvan.  which  furnished  a  broad  shade,  liu-ii:^  the 
chief.  Then  came  the  representatives  of  all  the  section-  of  the 

107 


1MMVATK    TALK-    WITH    >HIMK. 

ti'U>--,  wli-i  -alut.-d  their  ehi.-f  and  r«--tinii-d  th.-ir  pla1  >-.  After 
tin--,-,  di-:  in-jni-hi-d  men  did  him  r«-v> -rene.  ,  nil>l>in^  llu-ir 
hr-ri-:.-  and  arm-  with  white  j.o\\.l.-r.  Th<  n.  -i;dd •  nlv.  a  h>>-t 
of  -oldii-r*,  liur-tiiip;  t'r-'in  c-t.n.i  aim.  nt.  ni-!..d  \\i!d!v  toward 
Livin_r-t"iii  and  hi-  ni'-n,  hrandi-hin^  tln-ir -w«,rd- and  -h"iit- 
iii-^  like  deiiinii- ;  wh'>,  haviir_r  te-ted  the  c. .ura-j.-  •  '' tlnir  vi-itor 
tn  rh--ir  -a' :-fa.-t;.»n,  n  tin-d. 

Th--  andiemt-  \\a-  ii"W  njwutil  hv  tin-  lm-i>and  »t'  Manrnko, 
\\h",  '.n  an  .  'alwirale  -jMtvh,  d<.  land  the  lti-(ofv  and  purj...-.- 
nt'  !  !.'•  •.*.  iiile  man,  w  lii"!i.  lioWrVrr.  lt<-  <•,  .n-id«  !  -  d  »n  ;v  li-  -,  and 
,_r]-,  .iind.-d  Ir-  app.-al  in  li;-  In-half  entir-  Iv  »:i  th.  _•  !.•  ri.-itv  «.f 
rh.-  Uaii-iida  and  >hin:.-'-  hal'itnal  hin«hi'---.  Alt-r  him  the 
-••at  men  all  had  t  h-  ir  tall,-,  int.-r-p.  -r-  -d  1  .\  I  !:••  -•  >n--  . .{'  t  he 
\\MIIH-II  and  rnroiira^'il  l>v  their  ajiplaii-e. 

I'llfilli:     all      till-    V.  hile    the     tAjil"!',   !'     -at    .jlli'  '!  1  V    all'!    -MrVeVe.l 

t1  .-  novel  -e,-ne,  and  at  th>-  cl.i-e  Shinte  ar»-e  and  r.:ir>  d  .\i:li 
. .  in-'-i'.ii-  di'jnitv,  and  the  niiiltittid.  di-p,  r->  d  j>.  !"•  !«.-t  a^ain 
in  '  he  ordinarv  afl'tir-  «'t'  lit'.-. 

Afj--r  the  pnlili.-  n-efptii-n.  \\hi.-h  \\:l-  r.-iillv  only  a  di-p!.i\ 
!'<r  h:-  >  !it'-rtainm>  :it ,  c.-rtainK'  ''!)'•  in  uliieh  t!i'  ',';-it.'r  \\.i- 
»n!v  a  -p-.-!a!'ir.  !  .:\  '.  ir_r-t.iii'-  \\  a-  inviti-d  tVe-  j'i'-'it  !v  I"  .-":it'  r 
.\ith  "^hin'e  in  private,  and  r.,-,i\,d  nianv  t-\pn--io:i-  "t'hi- 
re^ard  a? id  nj'  li:-  -<  mpar  h  v  \\  i'  h  t  he  pi!'-p. .-,  -  of  :he  ,  \  p.  di;i,  >n. 
I'M'  »ne  •_''•'  a'  I-!,  mi-h  -p»:!' d  th.  ":h'r,\i-,-  pi.  a-ant  eharai-!<r 
o«'  r!ii-  ehi'-f  !t'-ua-  manif'-tlv  in  -.-n-t-l  -vmpa'hv  \\ith  ih. 
-'MV.-  il- a!--r-.  T!i-  M-nnl-ari  an-  all.. \\--d  JM  i-n-.-t  iheir -la\v- 
!'.•;]-  ri_'!i!  nnd'  ;•  In-  >  \-.-.  :>.nd  ni-_diilv  -"\T»:\~  <•!'  pa!',  nt-  1>. -n  ft 
'.f  th.-ir  ehildr-  n  nnd.-r  i-oVi  r  ..f  th>-  <!arkn« •--  f::.d  n-.  r.dr.--  at 
!,'-  hand-.  I  >:•.  Liviii^-!on«-  thr.  v\  hi-  inlln.  :L  ••  a_-i:n-:  the 
.  d  trad--,  I,. it  it  wa-  .-nlv  th.-  v..;.v  ..f  on-  ma'i.  ^^  .  ;r 

vi-    <J'.d'-    trirh.and    th'Hidi    -.-att.r.d    i.nlv  a-    tin d.  i»iav 

•l''",.  i».  'v    -i.p-ad     i'-     !.!•--.!     |.r..!.-eti,,n     ,,'..r    ;',.„,.     ml-  ra'-lf 


'.in-?  th--  l.r.  i-'  ••('  <  'hri-t. 

I  i       Hi1-. -..|.i    an-   mi    th.  ir   l-.-t    l-h:i\j..r    i',    •!  !     •  •-...,.  and 
'!(••  '.'••    !.i".  -    "f   -•..;.  tv    u.-r-    -  .n    •  -.-  :••  in     tin- 

j,,,,  .,.;.,,.,.,,!.-..•..  -I.,,..  .  ,,(•;!,.    p.,,p!.-.      <-..-;. il  j-.id-      .\:-'..!in 
m-.-t    nn  !'i>  •-'  ;••!!. i!'!-'    aii;h'.i  if  v.      Ti,.-    i  nji-fi.  ,\-   •-,   ,-j'd    n--!    i>r«-- 


MA<il(      I.ANTKKN    KXt  ITK.MKNT. 


109 


•nine  to  omit  their  obeisance  when  ;i  superior  passes,  hut  /iill 
instatitlv  to  oiio  km  f  and  maintain  that  p»-tmv  until  the  great 
onr  is  gone. 

One  hcamil'nl  trait  of  the  Ifcilnndu  is  their  love  I'm-  iinir 
in<iilnT.t.  The  more  southern  trihes  are  singularly  indifferent  to 
tho-e  who  give  them  hirth  ;  these  are  not  so.  It  was  charming 
in  these  wild  savages,  their  tender  remembrance,  even  \\hen 
burdened  themselves  with  years,  of  '•  mamma's  home."  Ibm 
sad  must  he  the  lives  of  tho-e  who  nurse  this  lender  lbndnc>s, 
when  they  an-  torn  so 'rruelly  awav  bv  the  wieked  hand  of  a 
trade  whieh  merits  their  devoiitest  curses!  What  more  plain- 
tive cry  can  find  the  ear  of  (Jod  than  "O  mother!"  whi>pend 
sobbingly  in  the  deep,  detruding  prison-house  of  bondage? 
^  hat  more  disastrous  blight  can  rest  on  the  life  of  man  than  a 
mother's  prayer  for  vengeance  against  him  who  robs  her  of  her 
child? 

These  people  are  poorly  supplied  wiih  game,  and  their  na- 
tional diet  of  manioc  has  provoked  nir  anathemas  of  manv  an 
African  traveller,  lor  it  is  found  all  over  the  continent.  '1  hev 
are  industrious,  though,  and  intelligent.  I>ut  while  there  are 
gods  manv  and  superstition  without  measure,  the  people  must 
lie  watched,  for  with  their  fears  the  doubtful  gr-.icc  of  thieving 
is  quite  developed  ;  and  while  thev  are  specimen:?  of  absolute 
honesty  if  then1  are  signs  of  a  charm  about,  or  if  the  blind  eves 
,»f  some  rude  deity  guards  the  treasure,  they  are  conscience  clear 
to  take  all  thev  can  find  if  thev  can  dodge  the  medicines  and 
the  deities. 

The  iHTiu'ie  lantern  produced  quite  an  exciteinenl  in  Shime's 
town.  The  first  picture  exhibited  was  that  of  Abraham  ol]i  ring 
his  soii.  The  picture,  lai'u'e  as  Hfi'  and  brought  out  vividly, 
produced  a  threat  effect,  and  the  story  filled  their  untutored 
minds  with  wonder  and  delight;  but  when  at  last  tin- dagger 
was  seen  moving  toward  Isaac,  the  women  were  wild  with 
fright  and  dashed  awav  as  if  for  lite.  Shiiue  himself'  was 
charmed,  and  was  deeplv  interested  in  examining  the  instrument. 

The  greatest  trial  to  whieh  Or.  Livingstone  was  sub].  «••<  <i  ,n 

tin's  countrv  was  the  inces-aut  rain  ;  night  after  nighr  thf  I r 

little  tent  was  beaten  steadily  by  the  great  drops,  and  the  brief 
intervals  during  the  davs  could  net  remove  the  dampnes-.  I»ut 


110  IKOX    WolJKS    IX    I.<>M>A. 

he  wa-  fully  convinced  of  the  threat  fertility  of  the  soil,  ami  it* 
adaptation  t<-»  the  eu-tmu-  and  inten-t>  of  eivih/ed  lite.  It  max 
U-  that  the^e  va-t  plain-  and  fore- 1. s  are  to  Income  the  .-toiv- 
hou.««--  of  the  world.  There  wa-  a  time  when  our  \\otcrn  con- 
tinent wa-  a-  h->|M -le-.-lv  !*•! lighted,  and  otl'ered  a-  .-mall  attrae- 
ti»n-  to  the  old  world,  as  Afri<~a  oiler*,  now.  The  time.-  are  in 
God'-  hand  :  the  future  i.-  wide  and  rich  in  po--ihilitu-s. 

After  -jM-ndine  alxmt  ten  davs  with  Shint.  ,  tin  travelling  partv 
picked  uj)  their  po>-«->-ioii-  and  re-unied  their  tramp.  Aiming 
the  industries  which  \vere  noticed,  a.-  the  jiartv  pa--.-d  alon<;  the 
lovdv  vallev,  were  certain  native  iron  work-,  tor  which  the  ore 
i^  obtained  in  a  ranee  of  -pl<  ndid  hill-  clothed  in  vcrduro 
which  wall  the  vallev  on  tin-  ea-t.  Indeed  it  i-  a  matter  of 
d.-ep  interot  that  thi-  continent,  although  -o  little  known,  ha-, 
alretdv  reveal.il  -n<-h  an  abundance  ol  iron  a-  merit-  tin1 
«..-rioii-  con-ideratitui  of  the  world;  and  the  native-,  thmi'jh 
Uiitniitietl  to  think  of  inaniifaeinre  a-  a  mean-  of  income  »i 
r«  venue,  have  -till  acquired  much  -kill  in  subjecting  thi-  un- 
sightly and  linwieldv  tna-ui'.-  t"  their  convenience.  '1  he  Man 
\.-ti,  it  mav  I..-  r.-ni.  inl»>  i  .-.1,  w  ho  \\  mi  the  di-til)c(ioil  ol'  "  pirat.  » 
if  the  Lee.imbv.  ,"  wefe  -ki'lul  aril/an-  in  iron;  and  in 
Angola,  in  l.a-i-rn  Al'rii-.i  L;>  n-ralU.  indee<l  ovei-  the  continent , 
tl  »•  of.-  i-  Imnid  in  j-. .. .<!  ipialitie-  and  abundant  ijnantitie-. 

The  kindiie--  ..f  >hinte  now    w<iit  in  advam-e  of  the  partv,  a- 
ti  at  ol    S-keletu    had    done,  and    tood  wa-    found    in  readme—  at 

t       e|  V    little     Village.          lie\o||d      the      I/'eb.l.    which      Wa-    <To->ed    n|| 

t  !••  .'il-t  ol  January,  'lie  route  lav  aero--  a  plain  not  I.-.--  than 
t-.Nentv  mile-  broad,  and  travelled  -mne  da\  -  where  rain-water 
:i\  in--  w  a*  -landing  from  -i\  inehe-  to  -mne  feet  in  depth.  lint 
t  i'Hi_'h  all  tin-  feji'.n,  a-  indicated  on  tin-  map-,  i-  \\ondertnllv 
l.ii'.i'1'd  \>\  -i  ream-  which  conlnbute  to  the  '/real  river  which 
lio\\  -  aw  av  aero--  t  he  coniinent,  there  -<  em  t"  be  no  tbuntaiii", 
•  Inbutarie-  of  the. jr.  at  n,  -\-er-fail  in-  <  'hob-  jro\\  nj( 
amid  •!,,-  !„,_'-  ,,|  the  \  a-t  -"akinj  plain-. 

<'j..--iiiL'    the   Lokahieje.  thi-  party  eiieniintered  tin    old  fri.  nd> 

- ninioii  ..n  tin-  river-  ..('  the    |  i.  ,  hnana-    and    Mak»lol.-     th-1 

li!p|H.|M.tami       which  •  A'-it---!  tin-  hope  that   tin-  plain-  and   w U 

Would     -.-.n    a  ;a;n    | .---    the    attraction-    of  animal     lite    and 

ii:i": '  I  -  in. inn  -  oi    meat. 


A    CHARMING    HOME.  Ill 

At  the  village  of  one  Soana  Molopo,  they  were  a  littl« 
troubled  through  the  guide  who  had  been  scut  on  from  Shinto, 
who  made  it  his  business  to  excite  in  every  chief's  mind  tin:  ex- 
|>ectation  of  valuable  gift*  from  the  traveller.  At  the  home  of 
a  >ubject  of  Ivatcma,  Livingstone  enjoye<l  a  singular  surpriv: 
this  man  Mo/.inkwu  possessed  intelligenee  far  in  advance  of  hi- 
surroundings,  and  sharing  liis  happiness  was  one  //•//<,  the 
mother  of  all  his  children.  Around  the  hoii-e  this  good  ladv 
had  <|iiite  a  crop  of  cotton;  and  Mo/iukwa's  gardens  and 
hedges  and  court-yard  showed  that  he  too  could  handle  useful 
implements.  Thev  had  also  a  garden  ol'  splendid  pota!»e-. 
while  some  large  shade-trees,  planted  in  the  middle  of  their 
yard,  indicated  that  this  line  familv  sought  comfort  intelligently  : 
Imt  alas!  brightest  pictures  fade;  in  a  tew  months  death  earn*  — 
death  comes  to  all — death  came  and  the  mother  and  wife  who-e 
faithfulness  had  been  the  joy  of  the  home  was  laid  awav  in 
silence  and  darkness.  We  who  look  in  the  grave  tilled  with  the 
light  of  the  cross  do  not  know  how  dark  it  is  for  the  heathen. 
After  death  has  once  crossed  a  Balonda  threshold,  the  house  has 
no  longer  any  charms  for  the  inmates,  and  the  invariable  cus- 
tom is  to  abandon  it.  This  superstitious  horror  of  death  can-'  > 
whole  villages  and  towns  to  be  abandoned  at  the  mo-t  unex- 
pected moment  ;  within  one  week  or  month  the  town  where  a 
traveller  was  entertained  mo-t  hospitably,  which  was  teeminir 
with  happy  people,  he  mav  find  desolate,  abandoned,  dreaded, 
:'iid  avoided  even  by  the  path,  which  has  been  changed.  A  tjiie-- 
t'on  finds  the  explanation  in  the  d<  ath  of  some  chief  man.  Thi- 
suggests  a  feature  of  lialonda  superstition  which  present-;  a 
serious  barrier  to  the  gospel.  While  these  people  believe  in 
(Jod,  and  seem  to  reoognixe  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  thcv 
se-em  almost  incapable  of  a  single  idea  nf'  heaven.  Thevonlv 
think  of  the  dead  as  lingering  about  the  familiar  scene-;  of  earth. 
Thev  seem  painfully  conscious  of'  their  nearness.  Tln-v  cannot 
think  of  another  world.  Their  ignorance  holds  them  in  a  con- 
stant bondage  of  tear  ;  thev  think  of  the  departed  as  vindictive, 
of  their  gods  as  full  of  vengeance,  of'  their  charm-  a>  s 
ing  some  unknown  evil.  Indeed  in  all  heathen  land-  ther 
painful  ignorance  of  love,  and  hardly  wonderful  either, 
only  the  poor  sinful  hearts  mn.-t  suggest  their  ideals  or  inter- 


11J  POWKK    OF    I.OVK. 

jirvt  the  thinp.  which  «»fiir.  It  i-  thi-  \vearine>s  of  the  dread- 
lu I  whirl)  make-  the  heathen  cateh  -o  ea-j'  rl\  at  the  ftatemeni 
ot  IrixC*  A«n  — it  i-  ->•  ne\v,  -<•  retn--hiir_r.  lUfati.-e  he  is  l^ove. 

he  i-  th>-  more  r<-adily  enthroned  in  the  l-.n^  dormant  uii'evtion.s 
and  faith  ot'  the  p..  .pie  ju-t  cotniiii:  I"  the  li^lit.  It  i-  not  the 
U>tim»iiv  ot  1  >r.  Livui;r*t«»iie  oiilv,  hut  of  all  \vlio  have  lalnired 
for  the  enlightenment  and  eonvt-r-ion  of  the  heath,  n.  that  noth- 
ing tthieh  e.-ui  he  -aid  arr.-t-  the  atteiiti..n  -o  .jnieUv  and  hold- 
it  -o  -tro'ijls  a-  the  -t..ry  .,f  the  cross.  It  i-  all  idle  t<>  >_", 
alniiit  pulling  d'«u  n  the  idol-  :  \\e  mi-d  oidv  -et  ii|>  the  crucified 
(  )n«-  ov.-r  a_'ain-t  ih.-m.  and  tliev  -hall  fill  ot'  them-elves.  out  of 
tin-  relaxing  tear-  and  confidence  which  have  heeii  hani-lled  hv 
the  ._'.K.diie--  and  \\oii  hv  the  love  of  the  true  and  '_rraei..u-. 

lllt'-llle-e.    the    'Jllide    llirili-lied    I  >V    Sllillte,    i  n  '.  'a-i'  'II'  ~>  1    tile    partV 

no  little  d'-lav  h\  lii-  |  >.  ttv  -f  iihhornne--  and  -trat-  ;jie-,  \\  !neh  he 
pra-'ti-ed  in  ord<  r  to  prolong  th' -ir  -tav  within  t!ie  Uuitidarie-  .•! 
Ir-  e..intni--:..n  a-  -jnide.  h.-eaii-e  he  f.nnd  that  po-n;..n  a  !at 
|ilae»-  owinj  to  the  liiM-ral  ordi  r-  of  hi-  ina-ter.  It  \\a-apie-. 
ot'  tiii-  -trate_'\-  \vhieh  1.  d  lii-  eliarL'e  apart  from  the  pr  'p. 
route  f..  \\ard  the  t'.un  (,f  Katenia  to  that  of  h:-  ta!  h<  r-m-!a\  . 
Thi-  •_'••!  i  T  !e!nan  \\a-  named  (^tieiiilciulc.  a  line  ..Id  man  a-  i; 
tnrn-d  out.  and  one\\hu  entertained  thejn  over  a  Snndav  \\ith 
n  a!  K  indn«  —  and  plea-nre. 

!h  had  ju-l  r-inriieil  t'n.m  a  fnii'ral  o|'  one  of  hi-  j»e.,p!e 
ivln-n  the  vi-itor-  arrived.  KI-W  thiiiL1-  in  -:i\a-e  lite  are  o|' 
more  -insular  inti-n-l  than  the  eereinonie-  of  hunal.  I  li«- 
r.  id. T  mav  re-vill  very  -injular  en-tom-  nt  <-. -riam  Indian-, 
v.  ith  u  ho--  !,  '.hit-  n,"-!  of  t  IP  m  are  m<  -\'<  <>r  \>-~  tain:  liar.  I  h." 
Mnnd-in-,  f-.r  in-'  m<---.  take  the  h-dv  of  I  IP  ir  d'  ad.  and  ha\  in^' 
r!,,'h'  d  it  in  hi-  !•--»  rol..-  and  .-rn-np  nt-.  f:irni-h  i:  '^  ;th  inan\ 


n  h. .'.  ••!:-.  !u!!  v  in  -ot't  \\i-t  hid  —  .  pla«-e  t  h-  pi-  ••i-u-  hnrdi-n  on 
-i  *,»,«:.'  !  -...,,  t'.  •  t  |ii_'h.  In  tin-  eoiir-  !'  tiim-  th-  -eal'i.I.I 
f!'!'-  ;  »h.  -n  !  !>•  •  r-  1  i!  ;•.  •  -  a--emh!.  -and  hnr\  t  h-  r-  main-.  •  \>  -  pt 
1 1:,  -I!]']-  1 1,;  1 1  |  ,'a.  .  •  i  .;i  'in  •  i  .  .ni:d.  '\  !i'  !  '  t  h-  I '  at '  p>  1'- 

li.-ip-  t  h'lrid:  •  d  -!  :  :  !i  a  -i  r-  -1-  .  a! !  h-.-kiirj'  iii'-\ard.  \i".nt 
th"-  p!  f  e  .,f  t!  •  '.-;'!-  t',.  -.-  ..nr-  n  aP-  oft-  :•  -.  .  n.  -irin.:  \\  illi 
th.'-  u-  r!.  f ..-  !...:r-  -t'  a  t;  •,•  .  h  -Mi-/  in  t!"  ir  I  <p-  ih-  -kul! 
,\  a  d-ad  ehi'd,  !.d  not  iinfre.,11.  ntly  th-;-  ar-  •  n  to  ela-p 


Ht'lUAI,    OF    TIIK    I»KAI>.  U3 

these  skulls  in  their  anus  and  lie  down  talking  a.-  if  t<>  a  living 
cliilil,  until  they  fall  asleep. 

The  Simix,  of  whom  wo  hear  so  much,  wrap  their  dead  in 
skins  and  lodge  in  the  brunches  of  trees;  never  forgetting  to 
place  a  wooden  dish  near  the  head,  that  the  friend  may  quench 
his  thirst  in  the  long  journey  lie  is  supposed  to  have  begun. 

Among  the  1'atagonians  the  dead  are  frequently  reduced  to 
skeletons  before  burial,  and  an-  washed  and  arrayed  in  new 
clothing  once  a  year.  The.  bodies,  while  being  prepared,  are 
laid  on  platforms  and  guarded  by  the  relatives,  who,  dressed 
in  long  robes,  strike  the  ground  eontinnally  with  spears  or 
staves,  and  keep  up  a  mournful  -oug  to  drive  away  the  spirits, 
who  thev  fear  arc  unfriendly  to  the  dead. 

The  Dahomaus,  with  all  their  erueltv  and  carelessness  of 
human  life,  always  hold  an  inquest  over  the  dead,  because,  pcr- 
haps,  the  king  reserves  it  as  his  privilege  to  do  all  the  killing. 
If  the  inquest  finds  the  man  to  have  died  a  natural  death,  his 
friends  are  allowed  to  begin  their  mourning,  during  which  they 
mav  not  wash,  but  mav  eat  and  drink  to  intemperance  if  they 
])lease.  When  the  collin  is  readv  the  body  is  clothed  in  the  best 
attire  and  furnished  with  a  complete  outfit  for  a  change  when 
he  reaches  the  spirit  land,  and  the  burial  takes  place. 

The  Bechnanas,  among  whom  Livingstone  spent  the  earlier 
years  in  Africa,  begin  the  funeral  service  before  death  has  really 
occurred.  As  soon  as  the  relatives  of  a  sick  man  are  satisfied 
that  his  end  is  near  they  throw  a  mat  or  skin  over  him,  and 
draw  it  together  until  the  poor  creature  i<  forced  into  a  crouch- 
ing posture,  with  tlu1  arms  bent,  the  head  l:o\ved  and  the  chin 
upon  the  knee-.  In  this  agoni/tng  portion  the  la>t  >park  of 
life  is  allowed  to  expire.  The  bodv  is  then  borne  to  the  cattle- 
pen,  where  the  LL'rave  is  waiting,  and  deposited  in  a  -ittiii'j;  pos- 
ture, exactly  facing  the  north.  The  nc\t  operation  is  to  pack 
the  finest  clay  tightly  and  careful Iv  about  the  bodv,  until  the 
earth  reaches  the  mouth  ;  then  a  few  piece-;  of  acacia  and  some 
roots  of  gras-  are  placed  on  the  head,  so  that  a  few  trreen  twi«_rs 
mav  be  above  the  ground.  The  -li^ht  mound  i<  then  raised, 
and  when  completed  a  lew  bo\v]fu'<  "f  water  are  poured  over  it, 
while  the  spectators  -hour  as  if  applauding.  The  lu-t  scene  at 
the  grave  is  the  women  pouring  o-u  their  bitter  lamen!ati"iis. 


114  SUNDAY    WITH    ^I"KM>KM>K. 

Tin-  lialonda,  whilst-  eu-totii  j-mri^-ti'd  thi-  digression,  are 
:ifl«ft«il  moru  d-fplv  than  inaiiv  i>tln-r<  mi  -u<-h  <M-«~a>ii>ns,  be- 
••au-i-  of  tiu-ir  >iii'_rular  >up<T-tition-  whi--h  hold  them  in  dread 
of  the  di-parl«-d.  Their  funeral-  an-  iwra-i»n-  <>f  -jn-at  e.\|»cii.«.e 
ainlirri-.it  n 'illusion,  (ireat  ft-a-t-  an-  spread,  and  during  the 
<vn-;noni.  -  tiu-iv  i-  kept  up  a  clamor  in  \\hirh  all  -f  in  -trivin^ 
!«>r  ina.-t« TV.  I  In  iv  an-  i»nid,  j>u-n-in^  ITU--;  drum-  are  Ix-atm 
with  rut-.u-ureil,  -ulcinn  Iwats,  and  it'  thuv  arc  'jun-  thev  are 
lirfl.  All  iii_rlit  Itiii^  tlii>  wilil  -rciif  i-niitiinn--,  and  i-  cun-id- 
ci'i-d  tht-  Ii!_'h--~t  hdii'T  po^-ihl.'  tn  IM-  ivndiTi-d.  Indi-i-d.  it  i^ 
!:n>ri-  tin  ani'Mint  <il  IHHM-  than  tin-  jMTfin'tiini  i'l'  riiclmlv  which 
delight."  tin-  -ava_ri'.  \\  ••  can  hard  I  v  tlwcll  mi  -ii' h  ai'cuiints 
\\ith"iit  di-«-|i«--t  -vnipathv.  \l<>\\  -\\ct-t  an-  the  (  lii'i-liaii  idca> 
i>l'  di-at  h  !  H"W  -acri-d  and  jd-t-i-inii-  an-  tin-  -|>"l-  \\  hi-iv  \\  ••  laid 
our  li»vi-d  I-IH-,  h<ijiini_r,  with  mir  cvt-  (•;•.  tin-  -tar  «•!'  I><  t  lil>  In  in. 
\\li'.-r  j.'iitlf  l)«ani-<  wen-  Hilling  on  the  mound!  1I'>\\  ia'_rtrlv 
V"  -!i"<iid  h:t-ti-n  \vilh  tin-  |HVI-!»M-  ti'iith-  that  mav  \»'  -«  In-lji- 
f  1  and  r'-j-'ii-Mi'.:  to  the  h.art-  ••}'  i:i-a!hrii!  I'.nt  if  I  >r.  I.ivin^- 


'j-i«-ii"!i  whether  old  (^iiriidriiilr   th.ni^ht    him   ijini-r— Sumlay 

•i!t'>rd«-d    j.M»d    lime   i'or    th«-   eVrr-J'aitht'ul    and    dil'iL!«iit    man    of 
(i  -1  to  i.ri-i-nt  tin-  irrt-at  tca'-liin--  of  tin-    I'.il.lr   to    hi-  iVit-mllv 


I'lloiida  fir  lie-  idi-a-  nf  heaven  *>r  \i<M.  Tln-v  invarialilv  ni'-rt 
a'l  ail\'aii'-i--  on  tlir  -iilij«-'-t  li\-  -avim:  in  <-M'i-<-t  :  ''  \\  <  do  not  ^o 
i,  ()  t. .  (  io.  1  a-  \  on  do  ;  \vi-  are  pn!  into  the  ground. 

1  li>  roiintrv  \\a-  !••  roiniiiLr  Iwautiful  ajam  ;  tin-  vallt  v-  ;md 
iiill-  \\i-ri-  i-Iotln-d  \\ilh  !o\-.-|v  •_••  i-" \\tli.  and  -up|iort'd  Inrd-  o|* 

liull'tiiM-.  t-laiid-.  k loo  and  varinii-  anti-l"|>i  -  ;  and  tin-  littli- 

vi!!a_r«-  ulii'-h  \M-r«4  ruii-lant  Iv  appi  ai'iii'j'  \MTI-  rlir.Tin_f  mdi- 
i-a'ion-  .•('  indil-lrv  and  happiiii--.  I  ,\  •  n  in  \ti';i-a  H  i-  :nt<-r- 
.-vnj-  !'•  ol.-.-rvi-  lli'-  'ji'adnal  1 1  n  \<r>  <\  •  n  M  1 1!  in  lln-  •_'•  "eral 
ap;"  n  UP''  o|'  lip-  i-oiintrv  a-  lh'-  to\\n-  "t  th«-  ^r>  .it  i-hi'-l-  an- 
appr>>:i>-ii'  !.!'!-!  a-  a  ciirri-jMHidin^  impri  >\  -  m-  nt  i-  i;ianit'--t  in 
tic  n<  ./!.:  ••  i  !•' » ••!  <  -f  "iir  Iaru"'i'  •  i!  !«•-. 

It  vi  i  .•  .n'  1 1,,-  niiddl'1  of  |-'i  lirnarv  u'h'-n  I  «i\  iii_r-loiii-  and 
hi-  I"!  I.,  \ .  i  -  .  i . .--.  d  T  h.-  I  ,oii  inl)\\  a  and  pa--- ••  I  »n  t"  ;  }>••  t<  «\\  n 
,,;'  K  iN ma.  I  h«-\  ••.'!••  ii"t  a--i'_Mii  il  a  hilt,  a-  \\ .  .:i!d  h  i\  i-  1 ..  . n 
t!,,  ,a-«-  amoiij  th-  Mak..:.,|,i.  ..r  a  roof,  a-  «..iil.l  ha\.-  1..-.  n  l!,.- 


KATKM.V    IN    STATE.  11" 

case  in  Shinte's  neighborhood,  l)iit  wore  led  out  to  the  .-belter 
of  sonu;  Inrge  trees,  where  they  might  provide  their  re-tiiitr- 
places  themselves.  But  K:item:i  did  not  forget  the  claim.-  of 
the  stranger  on  his  hospitality  entirely,  |i»r  after  a  little  time 
there  came  a  handsome  present  of  food,  which  was  va.-tly  more 
important  than  lints  or  roofs. 

On  the  following  day  Dr.  Living.-tone  Mas  honored  with  a 
public  reception,  as  he  had  l>ecn  at  Shinte's  town.  The  cere- 
monies of  this  reception,  too,  greatly  resembled  those  of  the 
former.  Katema  was  found  to  l>e  a  good-humored,  well-fed 
looking  man,  and  one  who  enjoyed  a  heart v  laugh  amazingly. 
He  rode  into  the  kotla  mounted  on  the  shoulders  of  an  active, 
muscular  young  man,  who  moved  along  quite  easily  with  hi* 
heavy  weight  of  dignity.  One  striking  element  of  this  chief- 
tain's character  was  his  vanity  ;  he  could  never  be  done  with  his 
s'lf-praise.  But  he  was  generous  and  wise.  When  Intemese 
h  id  given  his  statement,  Katema  placed  sixteen  large  baskets 
o  '  meal,  half  a  dozen  fowls  and  a  dozen  eggs  before  his  guest, 
a  id,  remarking  that  he  did  not  wish  a  stranger  to  be  hungry  in 
li  s  town,  said  :  "  Go  home  and  cook  and  eat ;  you  will  then  be 
h  •  a  fit  state  to  speak  with  me  at  an  audience  which  1  will  give 
you  to-morrow."  But  tall,  vigorous  man  as  he  was,  so  genial 
and  courteous,  he  was  subject  to  the  same  degrading  super.-ti- 
ti  MIS  which  were  seen  in  the  humbler  people  of  his  countrv. 

During  the  entire  interview  with  Dr.  Livingstone,  he  sat 
\\.iving  a  large  bunch  of  gnus'  tails  between  himself  and  the 
white  man,  as  a  protection  against  anv  charms  which  mi^ht  be 
employed  against  him.  This  man  was  reallv  the  younger 
brother,  and  held  his  position  as  chief  of  the  tribe  more  bv  his 
wisdom  and  kindness  than  of  ri^-lit.  His  brother  was  unkind 
and  foolishly  alienated  his  own  people,  and  prejudiced  the  sub- 
jects of  neighboring  tribes.  Katema  gradually  took  posse.-.-ion 
of  the  hearts  of  the  people,  and  gathered  with  them  threat 
numbers  of'  refugees  from  other  tribes,  until  he  became  the 
greater  chief,  and  boasted  of  being  the  equal  of  Matiamvo  him- 
self. He  did  not  exhibit  the  covetousness  which  had  been  so 
annoying  in  some  other  town.-,  but  received  quite  graceful!  v 
the  tew  little  things  which  Livingstone  was  able  to  present. 

Uniike  their  southern   neighbors,  the  Balonda  are  sinirularlv 


llf)  BIRDS    AND    nF.ASTS 

de-tit  ute  of  herds,  ami  though  (hey  manifest  the  highest  appre- 
ciation of  cattle,  and  |M»SS«-.S  a  laml  aihniralilv  adapted  to  pa.s- 
tura^'1,  thi-v  have  not  learned  to  domc-ticatc  tin-  few  cows  they 
have.  Kateina  owned  alioiit  tliirtv  head,  l>nt  c»>uld  niilv  pnsseM 
him-df  of  tli.'  meat  l)v  linntiiiL:  it  a-  In'  uoiild  a  I'titlalo  or  an 
antelope,  and  \va-  a-toiu.-hcd  when  lie  wa-  told  how  he  might 
appropriate  the  milk. 

1 1  i-  pleasant  to  think  of  nu-n  M»  t'ar  iVoin  tin-  refinements  of 
civilization  finding  real  delight  in  the  charming  little  melodies 
of  the  !:nv  canarv  bird.  All  aliont  in  Katenia  -  countrv  the-^e 
charming  little  ercatnre<  wen-  found  in  n-at  little  ca;je>, 
t f'-a-iifed  fonillv  l>v  the  dark  -avrje^.  "  lie-ran---  tin-v  .-in.:  >'> 
-u  .-et  !v."  I'erhaj)-  it  i-  the  •jratniii'ti-  tutelar--  of  tin-  \vonderf\ll 
e!ii.ri-ter<  of'  their  h.vclv  fl-re-t  h"nu  <  \\hidi  d«\rli.j^  thi- 
d'-!i.-i'.-  li.ve  of  -ji-ntle  imi-ie,  l"i-  the  lui'd-  are  on  rv>  rv  Koii^h, 
twittering  ami  >in'jin'j  a-  nn -rrilv  a-  <-.\\\  l>e.  ll.it  t IK  re  are  no 
rav-nnii-  li«a-i~:  \'oii  kii"\v  thev  eann«t  dwell  \\ilh  liird-;  thin/ 
-i  i  rn-  t'i  1 -e  no  -vrnpathv  l»etween  the  voice  ot '  xniir  and  \\ii« 
p.!--;«in~,  «\cii  Ix-voiid  the  habitations  ot'  men.  \\  <•  wonder 

natnrallv  whether   the    ni"ii-t<-r-   of  the  \v 1    tlv  Iroin  the  >i^ht 

"{'  mil' i'vin-1-  and  ^lec  —whether  >ani_rniiiarv  in-tmet-  ai'e  in 
evitalilv  relmkcd  hv  nin-ie.  liolder  (TUeltv  aii'-mi^  men  IKL-^ 
.-'•ni'-t  inii  -  tniurhticst  rc-i-tancc  in  the  pun-  -\\ec  t  prattle  of  lielji- 
!•  --!!•  --.  ^  "'i  rein<  inlier  it  \\  as  a  child  jilavitli;  l>v  llie  hrooklet, 
t"--in-_'  '.'.In!'-  pehhlcs  into  K,  and  lauiiliinj;  at  it-  luihhliiiL', 
\\hi.-h  lipik'-  tli"  i-ni-t-  o('  c:irel(>-ne-s  and  crime,  and  inelluweil 
tip-  h'-ar:  <>\'  one  \«\\^  t  IP  mjlit  le--  of  ni'-rcv  or  jii-tice.  and  hniiu' 
iijMiii  hi-  (\.-lid-.  a  tear  di-till'-d  of'  pi-niteii<-c.  \\hii-li  heaven 
r»'«'iivlj  in  n-'l'  MI  pi  ion  of  u-  fa\'or-  -n  \>nrj  d'-|>i---i|.  Hut 
t  In  n-  ar--  meatier  -hapc.-  of  e\  il  \\hi.-h  \\het  their  ajip- tile-  fur 
i-niii''  on  t|ii-  -i-j-ht  of  -,-.  (  ;i],  in  --  ;md  iniHiceni-e  :  tlpv  ai---  tip- 
\'  :,•!': ion-  -pid'T-  o|  -i«-ii-t\',  \\lpi  -'-hi  me.  and  \\aleh.  and  \\:iil< 
:r.rl  !.  -I  :  fli'-ir  hat'-  Mini  harm  i-  l'\'  -tratej-v  and  oli-etinlv. 

1  >>''!.,'    -  •     '.'•     I'-. -t;j-    e\'c   n      e|'l  nie      t  I'oli  I      oljr     ei  illteln  pt  .     \\  IP  •      i|c-pl-e 

•  h-     m-  :n:    t .  :i  'i<  ••  ••.  |,i,  1,   y. , •  on!\    d;  •  ad    lieeaii-e  \\  <    i-;iniiot    -•  ••  it. 

I  I'i  '.'.   Ill    -  1      i  I'   !'-    U  '  a\  '     !  lull'    \\  el.-    \\  hep     h  II  1 1 1  a  1 1    1  i '  •!  I  -    V.  '  -I  I  I '  I     I  • !  !  I  -  11 

!"  roar.  I  I  i:r:;an  nat  ur«  ha-  it-  t\  p<  -  in  l"\\ ,  r  oi  d.  i  -  .  .f  !  if-,  and 
•iiii"M-.'  '  !•  i"ir--  of  in-tnie|  diiiv.  a-  ainoti-/  tho-.-  of  thought. 

II  ni-  -!    l.ov,,r-   \\hen-    -\\...  :.-t    -'adnc--    dud!-    rev.-al  thr 


"A  PLA^KK  ox  TIIK  SPIDER."  117 

beautiful  deceits  of  the  running  foe  of  weakest  lili •.  The 
lovely  groves,  redolent  with  tin;  melodies  of  tin;  variou-  -OMJ-- 
8ters,  war  also  the  subtile  drapery  of  the  spiders,  w<  a\ •in-_r. 
And  the  poor  traveller  must  be  suddenly  recalled  !V«>m  tin- 
meditations  of  the  place-,  must  have  his  thoughts  rudely  dragged 
from  their  free  altitude;  of  pleasure,  by  the  quick,  light,  blood- 
curdling tramp  across  his  brow,  or  the  sudden,  sharp,  painful, 
imperceptible  wound  on  his  hand,  to  frighten  the  canary  which 
had  charmed  him,  bv  crying,  UA  plague  on  the  spider!  ''  The 
first  advances  in  the  groves  of  Katema  which  were  made  bv 
these  venomous  insects  were  in  the  night,  and  the  self-introduc- 
tion was  acutely  painful.  This  spider  was  found  to  be  light- 
colored  and  about  half  an  inch  in  length.  One  of  the  ugliest 
of  the  creatures  is  a  black  individual,  with  long  hair,  about  an 
inch  and  a  quarter  long,  and  three  quarters  of  an  iin-h  broad. 
A  large  reddish  spider  is  seen  as  if  in  great  excitement  running 
with  wonderful  velocity  in  and  out,  before  and  behind,  around 
and  over  everything.  It  dwells  in  a  hole,  and  has  an  in- 
geniously contrived  door  which  moves  on  hin^e-,  and  when 
closed  completely  covers  and  obscures  the  hole.  Xearlv  all  tin; 
species  have  beautiful  webs,  and  display  great  ingenuitv  in  so 
adjusting  them  as  to  entrap  the  unwary  victims  of  their  desire 
most  readily. 

The  pleasantness,  however,  and  healthfullness  of  the  country 
were  not  enough  to  prevent  the  return  of  lever,  and  hellnv  the 
ti.ne  lor  the  departure  from  Katema  had  arrived.  Living-tone 
•v\as  again  a  suiVeivr  by  this  enemy,  more  subtle  than  the  .-pider 
:,ind  stronger  than  the  lion.  The  winter  time  had  come,  but  the 
thermometer  was  at  1*0°,  and  he  could  onlv  to.-s  about  in  his 
tattered  tent.  He  was  tossing  so  all  dav  on  the  I'.'tli,  but  on 
the  morning  of  the  2<>th,  he  and  his  faithful  band  had  their 
friendly  parting  with  Katema  and  his  people.  Livingstone  had 
'lot  been  able  to  make  much  impression  on  this  vain  chief 
about  the  Bible.  It  is  the  experience  of  all  mi-.-ionaries  that 
Vie  results  are  painfully  small  when  all  rnusr  be  .-aid  through 
one  or  two  careless  and  la/y  interpreters,  who  themselves  care 
nothing  whatever  about  that  which  they  are  saving.  I'ut  tin- 
chief  had  furnished  guides  for  the  way  before  them,  and  thev 
might  proceed  confidently,  if  rather  sadly.  The  heroism  of  Pr. 


TUAl'lTIoN    OF    1ULOLO. 

Living-tone  was  eon-pi,  -n..  ;-  n..\v,  a-  a! \\ays,  when  then- \\ as 
r.n\  thing  to  enilurt1  <-r  i«»  dare.  A  liiiniu^  t»  \«  r — having  eaten 

nothing    l«'r    t\vu    dav- — attrlldiil    oniv    l>\    -a  vagi- he    pre»es 

awav  iiitn  tin1  \vildrrm--  a-  rluvrt'ully  and  n-o!in«  ly  a-  lit-  en- 
tered it  Ion::  U-f«iiv  from  ('ape  Town.  Alxiiit  ->.\  mile-  north- 
we-l  tV<>in  Katema'-,  thev  eanu-  to  Lake  1  Ml«-|..,  tin-  -uljeet  of 
a  tradition  whieh  (Mviirred  to  J  >r.  Liviu^.-toiu-  a-  |»u.-vil>ly  a 
i.tiii?.  lingt-ring  liint  of  tin-  il.-hi^r.  "It  i-  -^ihi  that  a  long 
tini'-  airo  a  village  »!".M!  «-n  the  -iM>t  whifh  i"  no\\  t-ovrml  l«v 

I  • 

the  laki',  ami  that  a  trinalt  fluff,  iianu^I  Moiji'ii-ja,  one  ilav  ••anui 
to  th»-  villagi'  ami  a.-kt-o!  th*-  wife  ot'  the  i-hii-f  man  t»r  -onn-  food, 
I'Ut  \va-s  refusal,  ami  taunted  with  lit  r  hrlj»K"^iu->  Itv  th.* 
'.\oinan,  \vhrn'U]>on  the  Mon<-n_'a  l.c-j'-ui  a  -I-HL:  in  -lo\v  tim-, 

and  utttTiil  her  o\vn  iianii MoiH'ligil-\V-()-<'.     A->  -In-  lini-ln^l  ll  e 

la~t  note,  tin-  village,  hoii-.-.  pi-.. pie,  to\\  1-,  dn_r-,  i-ver\ !  hin,:, 
-auk  into  the  -jiaec  nn'.v  ealli-.l  I>'.l.i|o." 

It  01  dv  re.juire.1  a  i'-\s-  dav-  to  --arrv  the  jtartv  lievonil  tl-i1 
dominion  of  Kavma.  Tin  \-  were  al>out  the  turning  point  <  i' 
the  \\at--r-,  too,  and  the  river-  \\ere  now  ninnin-j  northuar  . 
I  hfv  were  ^oiirj  -oinewhat  \\i--t  of  north,  and  \\t-re  i_'.[[ii."j 
.iai"H'_r  people  who  are  mileli  ni'Te  freiillelitlv  \i~ited  l>\'  the 
Matuliari  rnerehaiit.-  than  the  more  eentral  trilte-  are.  LiviiiL'- 
>;•  iiie  toij nd  a l-o  t  hat  t  he  |n-ople  had  a  imieh  -i  \-<  inj-cr  <•<  •nlidi nee 
in  the  li,-li,'f  i.t'  the  eontinued  e\i-tenee  of  departed  -pint-  than 
t!|.-  in. .re  -.iiithern  inhattitant-  of  the  e. mtinent.  The  idea  of 

liiiviiiL'    and    -ellin_r.    ton,    Iwjan    to    take    the    pla< f  LriviiiLT. 

lv.  •  r\  liodv  wanted  LTUII powder  or  Kiejli-h  ealien,  flu-  t  he  kno\\  1- 

L.    ..}'  ni"!iey  had  not    r-aeh'-'l    them,  the    Mamhaii  n-iiiL'  onlv 
!>ar'«  r  in  all  t  heir  t  ran-aet  p  in-. 

<  >M  t!i<-  'JTth  "i  l-'elirnarv  thev  \\-ere  on  the  l»ank-  of  a  Keanti- 
.-'i!  riv  r.  \\  hieh  reminded  t!i--  t  ra \---l  KT  t.|'  hi-  o\\  n  l-.\ .  1\-  (  'i\  de 

ri^'-'lland      -the   Kn-ai.       The  eliief  in  I  he  iiei  jhhofl 1,  named 

1\  in.;,  ill-.*-,  had  i'nrni-h.'d  ^uid.--  «|iiit«-  r.-adi'\.  and  th.'  m-'ii 
',.;•.•  ijiiiti-  full  of  prai-e  ..t'  their  ri\'T.  "Th"i;_'h  \.>u  -nil 
:!<>M  j  i!  t'T  rnoiit  h-,"  -aid  I  hev,  "  voti  u  dl  turn  wit  h"iit  -•••  in/ 
•',•••;  id  ot'  it ."  N •••'..  t"!-  I  hi  !:  r-t  Mm-  in  all  hi-  l"ii_r  p  'iiriiev, 
1 ':  .  Living-tone  I"  jan  !.-!-•  ti.ul.'-d  !.\  p- U -v  m- aim.--.-  ami 
t  tie  .  -  and  I.1,  v  -  at.d  -  i ..'.'.  -;  i"ii-  "I  \  i"!.-iie. •.  'I  IM-  peupln 

•    Ka:rj"  nke   pra>v-'d    on  hi-  party  a  tri«'k    f>r  w  hii  h  they  uro 


"A  MAN   DEMANDED.  11!» 

notorious.  One  of  thorn  placed  his  knife  where  lie  felt  sati-fied 
that  one  of  the  party  would  pick  it  up,  and  sure  enough  a  young 
man  did  pick  it  up,  supposing  that  he  had  found  it,  and  put  it 
in  a  basket.  The  niseal  who  had  planned  the  affair  of  eoiir-t- 
knew  that  it  had  been  picked  up,  and  waiting  until  the  partv 
had  divided — a  part  having  crossed  the  river  in  their  canoe: — 
lie  came  forward,  charging  that  some  one  of  the  party  had 
stolen  his  knife.  A  search  of  course  found  the  lost  property, 
and  the  finding  of  it  afforded  a  chance  to  impose  a  line  before 
they  would  allow  those  still  on  the  side  of  the  river  with  them 
to  cross.  At  the  village  of  Katende,  also,  on  the  %2!)th,  Living- 
stone was  called  on  to  pay  a  line  for  passing  through  the  coun- 
try. This  demand  was  stoutly  resisted.  Indeed,  it  is  sad  If 
apparent  that  these  creatures  have  felt  just  enough  of  the  in- 
fluence of  the  outside  world  to  make  them  the  most  unprincipled 
thieves  and  extortioners.  The  wild  animals,  too,  have  fled  from 
this  region,  and  there  was  no  possibility  of  obtaining  fond  except 
at  the  hands  of  these  ungenerous  chiefs.  Hungry  anil  wear", 
receiving  no  hospitality,  undiverted  by  even  the  welcome  da'i- 
gc-rs  of  'wild  beasts,  the  devoted  man  was  hardlv  able  to  appre- 
ciate the  splendid  plains  and  vallevs  along  which  their  journey 
lay. 

At  the  first  village  of  the  Chiboque  the  coolness  and  courage 
of  Dr.  Livingstone  was  put  to  a  severe  trial.  The  chief  of  the 
town,  after  making  verv  gracious  promises,  and  pretending 
much  sympathy  with  the  enterprise  of  the  expedition,  sud- 
denly sent  a  demand  for  a  slave  or  an  ox  as  tribute  fbr  the 
privilege  of  passing  through  the  country.  And  about  middav 
the  chief  Xjamhi,  having  collected  his  people,  suddenly  sur- 
rounded  the  camp  of  Livingstone  to  enforce  his  demand. 
There  is  hardlv  an  expression  Ibr  our  admiration  of  that  won- 
derful man,  experiencing  in  his  heart  Christlike  feelings  of' pity 
and  love  for  these  wild  men  ;  sirring  quietly  on  his  camp-stool 
in  front  of  his  tent,  parleying  with  this  wild  and  wicked  chief. 
The  sin-rounding  party  would  frequently  aim  their  guns  at  him 
and  wave  their  swords  and  spears.  Sometimes  it  seemed  impos- 
sible but  that  a  terrible  tight  must  occur.  The  noble  band  of 
Makololo  were  true  as  could  be,  and  carried  themselv.-  a-  men 
who  had  rather  a  fondness  for  such  sport.  It  will  be  remenv 


I'JO  A    Flf.HT    AVOIDED. 

bered  that  th«-se  ii. en  had  U-en  soldiers  under  the  jjreat  chief 
Scliituaiif,  \\ho  \\ith  his  nun  hand  beheaded  anv  man  \\liu 
dared  to  turn  his  lark  in  battle.  Thev  \\eiv  trained  to  eoiira^e, 
and  it  u  a-  Livingstone'.-  lull  ixuivirtioil  that  thev  \sould  have 
pn>\en  v  iet  or  ion-  over  twiev  us  nianv  C'hilxHjue  us  m>\v  aj^tcurctl 
airain-t  ihcin,  though  nnlv  t\vei«tv--i\  in  nmnlxT.  At  last, 
\vhfii  nothing  e!-e  \\oiild  d<>,  1  >r.  Livinp>loiu'  informed  the 
ehiefthat  In-  mu-t  decide  tin-  ijiii-M ion  himself,  and  :issumo  the 
fii'iir»-  i'i-*jM>n-il»ihtv  nt  ln'i'f  \va-  to  IK-  fj^htini;.  1'  or  himsrlf,  he 
\ri-!nd  to  ji;i-~  o\cr  ( Jod'-  ground  in  jH-at-f;  luit  il  he  \vas  not 
alloui  d  to  do  MI,  dr  ^hoiild  (vrtainlv  dffeiul  himself  and  people 
•i^ain-t  an\  '-in  in\.  '1  hi-  cool  talk  M-,-ni<-d  to  impn  --  the  ehiei' 
liji-n  that  tin-  !ill>int>s  thev  had  undertaken  N\a-  to  l,e  <|iiite 
M-ritHi-,  and  tin-v  IM-^UI  talking  more  r«a-onal)K.  A>  thf  n->ult 
'•fth'-  int'-rvit  \\ ,  lio\vi-vi-r,  I  >r.  Living-tout1  j^avi- an  «\,  ti'ii-tin^ 
then  liv  to  ^ain  a-  mtic-h  in  moral  inHiienix*  a*  In-  mi^lit  saenti'e 
of  t!i»  ii"  m in -li -nc. d.'d  -nppli,-  ot'  I'O.M!.  \\'hil.- joiiriies  in^r  alon^ 
the  t'-n-^t  path-,  dren-'li,  d  \\ith  rain  and  now  and  then  swim- 
mi;i_r  tin-  -tream-,  terril»!e  l'ever~  a^ain  set  in.  Added  to  the 
a'n-a.lv  -e\ere  trial-  that  of  an  almo-t  \van<l«  rin_r  mind,  the 
<ju:.l-  -  Iroiu  plaii-  to  pla<-e  \\eiv  no\\  a  lino.- 1  u-ele--,  and  u'lve 
miie!i  inoj-e  [nniiile  l>v  their  fnuli-h  and  oiitra^t-oii-  demand-  of 
pr«  -ejits  than  \vnuld  liave  r. -ulted  from  their  entire  a!>-en<-e. 
lint  the  !.;tte[-e-t  of  all,  ai'oui  tii--  Ut  h  of  Man-h,  not  tar  fro  in 
t ',.•  -  en,-  of  tie  d i Hi' -it ! t y  \\  1 !  1 1  t lie  (  '  1 1 i  1  >oi j ui •,  1 1  H  re  a ppea red  a 

dl-po-lt  |o||    to    H;U'  i!l\     III    -o|||.-  of  in-  o\\  M    part  V,   \\llieh    |>ro<'eeiled 

-o  i.-r  -l,at  'h'  ini--ionarv  \\a-  n--ar  -••ndiii-_r  a  ll'\v  l>alls  tlrt'oii^h 
l'je  h"td-  of  t!ie  tronlii  -  pine  individual-.  K\  er\  -tep  <,f  the 
uav  in'.v  \\a-  etiiuliated  I>-r  aj.iin-t  e\tori|o;;-i  threatened  \\ar 


,1  d  to  !•  •  d  on  I'M.'  aii\ii-li'-  of  the  oeea-ioii.  I'erhap-  the 
(:.•  -'  '•  vri  i  •!  \  ! ;".  i;ij  hour  <  >f  t  h<-  '.\hole  joiirnev  \\  a-  ni  the  lit  I  Ir 
•  •in  "ii<  t,  I,;  :i;  tj;,.  eiie:itn|i|iii-iit  MI  ar  tin-  \iila_'e  of  I  .n'_ra- 
I  '.i;i/a,  '.'.  !;• '  h.id  :i'  !•  d  v.  if  h  tie-  ino-t  u npardoiial >!••  di-ivjard  of 
fM'ii  .'.ifi  maniine--.  '1  ii.  -u!l'.  i  :n^'-  of  the  men  -me,-  ',-;i\  m^ 
I\  at-  m  i  -  !•  rrito]--,  !:.•,,  I  I  .-.  n  -..  j  feat  and  -o  eon-taut ,  e\  i  r\  !  h  in  j 
!nd  -•  •  m-  d  to  r-  -!-'  :!.•  p.  ••_•!•  --  oj'  the  part\-  -o  l.itterl\-.  that 

the     f, !!,,••,<  r-     of    I,  :s  ',:,_•-',  .,:,.•     |n-e;ime    thoroughly   di-hi'aftrlied, 

:i:,  I    t!i'-.     IV  _Mii    to    d,-    •,    -    :;,.     \\i-doiii    of   ejoinj    haek    hoine. 


-THE   GREATEST   TRIAL.  1  J1 

The  borders  of  the  Portuguese  .settlement  were  almost  at  hand. 
The  £mml  object  for  which  the  wonderful  man  had  toiled  ami 
Buffered  during  nearly  two  years,  in  which  hi;  had  wandered 
amidst  the  perils  of  wilds  where  no  white  man  had  ever  ven- 
tured, wax  almost  accomplished.  The  highway  for  civilization 
and  truth  was  almost  open.  And  now  the  thought  of  abandon- 
ing all  and  going  back.  It  was  enough  to  overcome  him  in  h!.- 
best  and  most  vigorous  days.  It  eould  not  be,  it  should  not  be 
he  was  determined,  and  after  using  all  his  powers  of  per.-ua.-ini: 
he  declared  to  them  that  though  they  returned  he  should  <j<>  '/?< 
alone.  The  great  man  retired  into  his  little  tent  and  ca-t  \\\- 
eyes  toward  God  for  help.  They  loved  him  too  stronglv, 
though,  those  friends  of  the  year  of  trial.  Soon  they  began  to 
gather  about  him,  vowing  that  they  would  die  before  thev 
would  forsake  him;  they  would  go  with  him  anywhere;  "thev 
had  only  spoken  in  the  bitterness  of  their  spirits,  and  ieeling 
that  they  could  do  nothing."  After  this  they  were  them-elve^ 
again,  ready  for  any  toil,  for  any  danger;  and  were  freijut  utlv 
overheard,  when  threatened  by  enemies,  saying  to  each  other. 
"That  is  just  what  we  want ;  let  them  begin."  They  seemed 
really  anxious  to  reassure  their  "father,"  as  they  called  J>r. 
Livingstone,  of  their  love  and  courage. 

Although  thev  were  now  so  near  the  borders  of  the  Portu- 
guese settlement,  the  natives  seemed  singularly  ignorant  of 
white  men,  and  the  straight  hair  of  Livingstone  was  alnio-t  a.-> 
much  a  curiosity  as  it  had  been  far  back  in  the  interior.  The 
Mambari  do  nearly  all  the  trading  between  the  whites  along  tlve 
coasts  and  the  more  central  tribes,  so  that  even  where  there  are 
found  many  articles  of  European  manufacture  there  is  the  saint* 
absolute  ignorance  of  the  sort  of  people  who  make  the  wonderful 
things. 

It  was  the  4th  of  April  when  the  party  reached  the  banks  of 
the  Quango,  which  bounds  the  territory  of  the  Bangala,  who 
are  the  subjects  of  the  Portuguese.  On  the  east  side  they  were 
still  in  the  country  of  the  Bashange,  the  last  of  the  border 
tribes,  and  were  suffer  ing  everv  form  of  extortion.  Thev  were 
determined  to  make  Livingstone  pay  for  his  passage  over  the 
•ilver  bv  ixivini;  them  one  of  his  men  to  be  a  slave  ;  while  any- 
Jddy  who  has  followed  the  life  history  of  the  man  to  this  point 


122  KKST    AT    LAST. 

')*  assure-*!  that  lit-  would  have  died  :i  thou-and  tinx  -.  if  jMissibl^ 
Ix-foiv  he  would  have  complied  with  -neh  a  demand.  At  length 
a  voimir  oflitvr  of  thr  I>ortu«;inise  niilitiu,  < 'ypriano  di  Aforuc, 

made  hi-  appeanux •«•.  and  l»y  hi-  a—i-taiuv  the  \\  hole  partv  wore 
MN.H  lievotid  tin-  reaeh  of  tin-  itM|>ositio!]<  and  dillieulti«s  \vliich 
had  made  tln-ir  whole  ••xjM'rienee  with  tin-  !*>rder  trilx.s  one  of 

hitter  anxietv   and    want.      N<>   wond«  r    tin  v    pa--ed    -o    gladly 
a!"ii_r   throiiL'h    the    tall,  waving    L.rra-s    in    tin-    ti'ot-tejt-    of  the 
'_''•!)< -roil-  and  frimdlv  half-<-:i>tc'  -«-rL.r«'ant.      And  it  \va~  a  liirlitcr 
In-art  '.vhii-h  U-at  in  lln-  litt!--  tattm-d  ti-nt  ilia!  nL'ht.  a-  it  -t«>'.«l 
in  front  of  ( 'yj»riaii«»'r*  Im'.i-i-.  than  had  Ix-m  in  it  fnr  a  lim^.  IOML" 
riiin'.      And   <-li    hn\v  thankl'nllv    tin-    man    "I"  (i<»l.  ni«\v  a!n:o> 
r-'.idv  t<>  lit!!  mid<T  the  \\.-i-ht  "('  hi-,  l:i!»nr  i\>r  (  'hri-!  and  -nii!» 
turned  hi-  e\-«-<  l.aek  on    l!ie   -jn-at    hidden  world  whieh    h,-    h:i  i 
jiarllv  ii.inid  out    and    ha-t-  n^d    no\\   t»    make  known:   and    !'••- 
ward  to  the  an\i<>n~.  v.-;i:iin_'  liroiherhiM»d    in   .le-n«.  \\ln.  \\--n  d 

he     '_'!;td      to      i'olloW     the     threa.l      ot'     hi-      jolinieV-      throlljh      lh«" 

wilderinv-c-  wiih  !i_rhl  and  trillli  ! 

\\"«.-\\li!     lielievt-    lha!     he     f-ied     -Weel  1 V    that     Ili^llt.aild    t!  ;  ' 

t!ie    at!' -ndiii'_r    aii'je!     'jnard,    \\hieh     t'ormed     ihe    n<-;irer    <\i. 
around  hi  in,  lo.  -ked  o>;  lovingly  and  \\  ii  h  n^jMi-t,  ainl  \\  •  >nde: -..  : 
ilia?   we;ik   in-  n,  !••]•  !"\e  -  -ni^e  iiiilv,  -lioiild    -o  .'iidiire  :md    !•']  . 

Th''     lillle    village    \\  here     I  ll-  •    \\  e;if\'     traveller     had     .-|il'e:id     llS 

-•i.r:;i  '  ••  ..\>  n  !•  nt  -••  j..v:ui]v  on  I  he  evening  of  the  It  h  of  April 
v,;i~  \  •  r\-  t-.rtV"!ii  !  •<  ;;i_'  -U' !i  a  o:ie  ;i-  our  nnaLrinaI  ion-  nii'jht 
:!)••  !ii»:---  readilv  p:  tun-,  in  e.iistra-t  wiih  ihe  darknc— <  and 
d'-_ri'ad:it !  m  of  !  i  tr: 'ari-in.  A  iiu'ola,  \'oii  nm-t  rei iien 1 1  »-r.  t-  onlv 
:ia  otit--;at  ion  of  euii_rhtennii  ni  :  1  >M:  n  i-  in  !  In  •«  tin-  of  the  1'ortu- 
ju.-e  •_;•  .V  rnniei.t ,  and  n-  nion-jrel  pnpulaiion  have  many  of 
i  in-  id<  a-  and  eii-t»m-  in-eparalile  f Voiti  ihe  eon il'ort  ni' !  h«'-e  \vhn 

|,;,Ve  1  ...  II  aei-ll-1.  .Hud  1"  I  he  |i  ••  lillj-  of  -'  ellfitN  a  I  id  t'. '  1  1 .  •  \\  -h  i  1 1 
\\hi--ll  !•  J'll  •_'.i\-eril!l|eMl  a  I  id  el  I  !  i  J  1  !  I  i-I|(  -i  I  -.  i<  'j.  t  \'  !  1 1  -  pi  I'l  '.  Al''e|- 

,'  i  nrinv  1:1.  'ii!  h-  of  an  \ietv  and  eant  i<  >n.  T  In-  plea-nn-  ol  - 
nnd-  !•  t!i-'  anthoritv  ni' i-ivili/atimi.  though  al'-'.inl-  iv  in  lii--  hut 
..t'  a    i..  --I'lr  n,    \\-.\~    an    in-  \  ]ifi  --1M'.'    ].re--ioii-    pn  vi]e._-.  .       '!'!,,• 
i'.in1!    eiu-ti  r    i.('  ii.-:i!,  -MM  ire    hoij-e-.  v.  nh    th--    '/roiii.-    of  li'iif 
,,.-..   p,  .:"M_'':.  -.    -r:i!idi:r.r  a!".Ml.  the  \\h<.!e  IH  arl\'  hid-i'-n   in   th" 
•a1 !,  ••  T.  in  _'•..'!'  "-  •   ".!.'•  h   Irin.;.  -    !  !.«•   <  v'n;niu'(  •  '  'n  the  u  e-t   I .  ml, 
A.-I-:!..    -  ••  n--  i-f  "'iv   !V:-  nd    < '•.     rialio'-    di_'ni!v.       Ih-\'[;-n.h 


I'oiiTixa'jvSK  roi.K  v.  \^ 

Mocietv,  :ui<l  in  so  insignificant  a  suburb  of  eivili/ation,  1  >i-. 
Livingstone's  condition  cxciU'<l  wonder  and  j»itv.  \\  a-te<l  l.v 
sickness  mid  staggering  \viili  fatigue,  sun-scorched  and  ra^e.l, 
whoever  had  dreamed  of  the  habits  and  comforts  of  while  men 
in  their  own  light-favored  and  love-cheered  lands  would  natur- 
ally wonder,  and  j>itv  him  and  honor  him.  Cypriano  was  an 
officer  in  the  Portuguese  militia,  and  was  in  command  of  the 
little  post  on  the  border.  He  received  his  guest  with  great 
cordiality,  and  treated  him  with  most  careful  res] wet  and  kindnes^ 
during  the  few  davs  of  his  sojourn  with  him.  Jle  was  pos>iblv 
a  very  favorable  specimen  of  the  half-caste  popnlatiun  which 
composes  so  important  a  portion  of  Angola  societv.  Tl un- 
people furnish  the  largo  proportion  of  traders  who  penetrate  t1  ••  ? 
"regions  beyond/'  They  retain,  of  course,  manv  of  the  i'eatni  s 
of  the  tribe  from  which  they  are  partlv  sprung;  the  dark  >ha'!< 
and  the  unquestionable  wool  are  marks  which  decide  their  ne<_r  'o 
origin.  Their  Portuguese  i'athcrs,  however,  secured  them  t  e 
advantage  of  education,  and  what  advantage  may  be  in  tl  c 
name  of  Catholic. 

The  Portuguese  policy  at  Loanda  has  been  very  unlike  tic 
English  on  the  Cape,  and  in  some  respects  much  wiser  an  1 
gentler.  The  English,  have  encouraged  an  overbearing  spii  t 
jn  their  subjects.  The  Portuguese  have  recogni/.ed  the  prob.  - 
bility  that  the  white  trader  will  be  tempted  to  oppress  tl  e 
natives,  and  refuse  to  punish  the  community  or  tribe  \\hc.-e 
one  of  these  traders  is  killed.  This  naturally  makes  the  whites 
cautious,  and  while  it  has  not  been  enough  to  confine  them  at 
Loanda,  has  led  to  the  employment  of  natives  and  half-castes 
for  trading  with  remoter  tribes. 

Dr.  Livingston'/  reached  Cassange,  the  mo.-t  eastern  station  of 
the  Portuguese^  on  the  12th.  lie  was  received  at  the  house  of 
Captain  Xevis,  who  not  only  entertained  him  very  kindly  and 
generously  but  provided  also  tor  his  followers.  There  was  a 
feature  of  this  settlement  which  impressed  Pr.  Livingstone  that 
these  Portuguese  can  never  be  successful  colonists.  That  fea- 
ture was  the  entire  absence  of  European  women.  The  gentle- 
men come  with  no  idea  of'  remaining  anv  longer  than  may  be 
nr-eessarv  for  the  accumulation  of  some  money.  Thev  uencrallv 
have  taken  native  women  into  the  temporary  di^nitv  <>f  wives, 


124  WoNI>i:UFfL    VAI.I.KY. 

n:id  unhesitatingly  rei'oguizo  tin-  ofY-priir_r  of  the-4*  unions  as 
iijual-,  :unl  not  uncommonly  commit  to  them  the  most  imjx>r- 
tant  tru-ts. 

The  village1  of  ("Vissaiige  is  aUout  half  wav  from  the  Quango, 
jirro—  the  splendid  valley  which  i-  wait  in-.:  to  U-conie  a  granarv 
t'or  the  world.  "This  valley  is  pei-hap-  :i  hundred  mile-  wide; 
clothed  with  dark  forests,  exeept  where  tin-  tall  gra>s  covers  the. 
meadow  land  alon^  t|,,.  (Quango,  \\hi<  h  ln-n-  and  there  pianos 
out  in  the  .-iin  a-  it  wend-  it.s  \\av  northward."  It  i^  the  vast 
reality  of  which  the  traveller  said  the  view  of  the  <  Mvde,  from 
the  sj»ot  wheuei-  Marv  (^UM-H  of  S-ots  witiifsscd  ilic  hattle  of 
LaiiLr-ide,  i<  a  miniature.  The  valh-v  W:L<  entered  on  the  .".nth 
of  March,  l>y  (IcsiiMiiling  a  pre.-ijiitous  path  from  the  tal>le  land, 
which  >tood  !)ehind  them  now  in  the  di-tancc  like  a  wall.  Th»i 
extern  half  of  the  valley  is  the  home  of  border  triUs.  who  hav'- 
learmtl  tneanne^-  ami  crueltv  from  their  imperfect  acquaintance 
with  \\hitc  people.  The  we-teni  hall'  i-  the  frontier  of'  the 
Portuguese,  with  <  'a^^aii'je  fl-r  it-  principal  town. 

()fcour<ew nlil  not  expect  that  -uch  a  station  shouKl  ha\'c 

anvthin^  of'  architci-tural  lx-aiit\.  The  hnu-e-  were  linilt  of 
wattle  and  dauti ;  l»ut  thev  \\.pi-  surrounded  l>v  eonsidenilile 
plantation-  of  manioc  an<l  mai/e,  and  turni-hed  with  gardens 
where  manv  diH'eretil  Iviropran  vep-tal>l«^  irrew  .-plendidlv, 
and  both  native  and  im|nirted  fruit-  rewnrdc<l  the  alino-t  care- 

liv-   eill.rt.-   of  the   people.        The    Makololo,  too.  Were   dcliu'lltcd    to 

find  here  that  iv<>r\  cotnmaud'^1  -jreatlv  1>«  H<T  jirices  than  thcv 
had  dreamci]  nf'  in  th'-ir  own  countrv.  '1  hev  had  hccn  accus- 
torned  to  -i-ll  two  tu-k-  for  on«-  <;un.  -o  that  their  siirpri-e  and 
d'-li-jht  were  alnio-t  amu.-iiiLr  \\hen  thev  saw  their  leader  receive 
t'ironetii-k  "two  ruu-ket-,  three  -mall  liarre!-  nf  gunpowder, 
.ind  l'%.n'jli-h  caljeo  :ind  liai/e  enough  [<>  clothe  the  whole  party, 
In-id'-  lar_'e  hunehe-  of  head-." 

M:ni\  o|'  ili.-e  trading  villas-  are  to  }»•  finind  in  (hi-  broad 
valN-v.  and  the  native  I'1.rtiii_rue--e  m  them  generallv  becume  rich 

III    a    \er\-     fe'.V    Ve;ir- 

I  .!  vilrj-'-'He      ni-.-.|e,l      to     .jlljet      '  .ft  e  I)  -  feel  |  r  !'i  I  T_r    a  II  \  !  <   !  i(   -    ill    the 

bn-a-t-  of  hi-  M:ik- ,!.,!•,  :i-  thev  drew  nean-r  th«-  eoa-t.  Their 
ontiden.i  in  him  \va-  -I  ron^i-r  than  their  tear-,  howe\-er  ;  and 
!'i..ir_'h  t!fv  W'-r-'  caution. -il  l>v  -ome  that  the  \v!iit«'  people  were 


THK    u  KM)    OF   THE    WOULD.  1 25 

cannibals,  and  by  others  that  Livingstone  intended  to  make 
slaves  of  them,  they  followed  him  trustingly  and  lovingly  a.s  hi* 
children,  as  thev  called  themselves. 

Having  been  kindly  provided  with  a  guide  by  the  com- 
mander at  ( 'assange,  the  party  resumed  their  journey  on  the 
21st  of  April,  and  going  twenty  miles  stood  at  the  loot  of  the 
Tola  Mungongo,  which  is  the  western  wall  of  this  wonderful 
valley,  and  after  an  hour  of  climbing  were  again  on  a  lofty  table 
land,  from  which  they  could  look  back  a  hundred  miles  to  the 
borders  of  Londa.  Geologists  mav  find  here,  if  thev  wish,  a 
problem.  They  may  undertake  to  tell  the  world  how  long  ago 
it  was  when  this  broad  chasm  did  not  exi>t,  but  Tola  Mun- 
gongo  and  Masamba  Ridge  were  one.  J>ut  while  the  scientists 
are  making  their  calculations,  the  world  will  move  on,  and  his- 
tory will  be  growing  about  these  strange,  wild  dill's,  and  nations 
succeeding  each  other  on  table  lands  and  vallevs.  The  journey 
to  Loan  da  was  attended  now  with  only  such  delays  as  the  kind- 
ness of  the  Portuguese  at  various  settlements  induced  and  the 
barter  with  natives  ibr  food  occasioned.  It  led  them  first  along 
a  beautiful  country,  where  splendid  forests  were  threaded  bv  a 
number  of  beautiful  streams  and  inhabited  by  "true  negroes." 
Then  through  the  district  of  Ambaca,  where  the  traces  of  Jesuit 
labor  linger  in  the  intelligence  of  the  people,  and  the  men 
themselves  live  yet  in  the  love  of  those;  thev  sought  to  elevate. 
After  that  can*}  a  mountainous  region  which  delighted  the 
highland  heart  of  Livingstone,  and  brought  back  to  his  mind 
many  a  view  which  charms  the  traveller  in  his  own  dear  Scot- 
land— a  region  wildly  beautiful  and  remarkably  iertile.  As 
they  came  nearer  to  the  coast  the  life  was  not  so  vigorous,  the 
scene  became  sterile. 

On  the  olst  of  Mav  the  partv  looked  out  on  the  Atlantic 
from  the  brow  of  the  hill  which  overlooks  the  city  of  Lounda, 
where  all  at  once,  as  the  Makololo  expressed  it,  the  world  said, 
"  I  am  finished  ;  there  is  no  more  of  me." 


CHAPTER    VJI. 

ANGOLA. 

Aaxii-ty     A  SiniM*  Englishman  — Siokn«««<     Mr.  <  ln'iri.  T-  Kiii'hiw.— Svttlomenl 

•  •!'     l..>.in  U     T'T'.u.Mi.  ••••      Kuihirr    -Tun     Tiiin.'«      I'lii-rnnm;.       M;iki«l..l.i     m 

W  .rk     Tin-  Ship  ":i  T..WH"     Living..!!.-'-    !:- -l:u--     l.-i  .•    I.. \Vli»i 

Mu'lit  h:ivf  ll.-.-u  .-liivr  Tri.lr  >!.»\'-ry  1:1  Ati'i'M  liPMi  -  • '!  I.i\  iiu'st"ii«'i 
<  >|>|M-«iti»ii  N. -lu'-'Ut  (  uiti\  .1:1  •!!  "I  \\,>-  >  ••;!  '!'«••  ~M,K  liti.."-  a  M»uth  - 
K.-!i,-h  \V,.r-hi|.  l'..rtu»M.,-.,-  l'.!..>  Iv-.ry  It..!,  I  :,].-.,!  I..il«.r  Mania 
f.r  I.iti.'.ui.'ii  ••!',,.-  lu:..  r.iN  '  -  I  !.••  !'•  •!»..  n  «'!•!..  i!  \S.M  Ai.nu.tl~  77,^ 
S'lt-lri>i-il  I..M.kii..'  I",  i-tu.ir.i  Ii'!..ir;tir.-ir..iii  L...U..IU  M  ,k  .1-1,  i:,.;i-.;;i,-» 
— Tin-  "  Tru.-  Atirifiit-  '  \  I;,  tn.u  ,...;.  Ii,-.:  Vml-.i.M  i  liur.-ti  .-r.l.ii!  - 

r;ith  -li.-    Mi-tik-      I'MII.-.    \M.|.-:  •»:.  t!:.-    I:...L!      I'uH.-tilt. 1    <i\l:.l:M^ 

Tr.i.l.T.      !:..•-«  ix     ,:,!    I  :;.•[. !-...,:     TI-K-       l.:l;|.'i:i.i:i     M..I.M.  r      I».-.|ihn- 
tV-iia  "   I"l.i  M'iiu'"!i.- '•  "      '   .i~-.i:i.-i-      !'ril!ift'  II:K  --       I  ii<    {Jd.iii,-  >  A^'.nii. 

III!',  ritv  \\  :i-  -t  ra:i'_"' :  i  li'1  -'"i  \\:i~  uii'-"ii-«-:'iii».  "Arctlu-n1 
l'i  ;••!!<  1-  in  tin'  i-itv  '.'  A  !'•  !  i i' •! •••  tulin^-  «'ii  tin-  -i  a  '.'  "  Tin-  tuiv- 
«••!!  h:i'l  l»-«-n  -J">'K.  it  t\\n  yi-ur- M^O.  Tli-Tr  li:i'l  l»"«-n  n«  r(.iiu- 
-«!,  tli'f'-  li:ul  IM.-M  i,. i  ••ii«-->iii1:i_r«iiin-ii(.  Tli'1  wihliTlif-.-.  li:nl 
\>  <-n  .-lici-rlt--  :HII|  the  v.av  ii:ul  \><<\\  \o\t-j.  '['In-  ~:,.iit'~t  h'-.irt 
-.  iii.'tinn-  \\ani-  I"  !'-;ui  it-'  If  II|H>II  :in,itl|.'t  lu-ai'I  ;  the  nm-t 
\  ^.,[-,,,i-  Iraini-  uiav  In- \vuni  l>\'  t«>il  ami  anxit-tv.  I-  it  ~tran^c 
M  at  th>-  -ti'Mii^  man  -ta-j-jei-.-.l  {<•  the  IP!'"\\  n|'  the  hill  aii'l  «•"!!- 
!  --.-.I  a  -inkiir_r  heart  a-  lie  1... ,1, ,  ,\  <}.,\\\\  .,n  the  .-itv  ami  »\\{  mi 
th-'  ---a".'  Aii'l  i-  it  \\  "ml- rl'ul  that  he  \\a-  Lrla«l  when  he  f«un<l 
tl'n\.-r-  '•!•»•, niiirj  alx.ut  the  ,l>,,r  ,<\'  the  mi!\  |-'.n^li~hinaii  in 
!.•  MII« la'.'  l-'i"\\er-  are  -il.-m  ami  liail.  th--\-  are  evpiv—ive  an«l 
J  i-'A- rlul  ;  tiny  r.iiitp'l  hiinian  |ia--i"ii-  like  !..ve.  aii-1  -mile  a 
V'!'  •:,!.  -we.-ti-r  than  \\..r«l-  n:av  t.-!l.  I:  i-  a  1  ..-ant  :t'nl  thin^ 

t'      '-'I1'   I     a    L"   Il'-r-.U-    llMlne   Mel-'.---    l,..l«    ..f     |J.i\\,-r-.         The    Imllie    ,,f 

M-.  <;.i!.rie]  |,:-.    .,[  ;,.,  ir  u.,rt!,v  MI'  i!,,.  I,,,,,,.,  ,,f  ,!,,.  .;,.]-  :,M,j 

'!••-'  'n''     in  in    "!    '  i  -I  .ii.il  tVp  IM!  M!'  in. •)!   \\!IM    -..njht    il-  il'H.r. 
IV.   I.  .-,  iv.-,I    !,!.,.  ;,  l.p.th,  ,-.      |;,,t  hi-  -tren-,1, 

^  a-  t  itiM-lv.       1 ,1! . .    a  !'*<•<  r  \\  h.  >u\ 

I'"  ta'i/M'    -an  i '..i-r.  -  uc.n.  h-    ha-1  tiitiinj  I)'.!, 

I'1!  I  -ahk    -I  •••/.!  i    h-  !  j.!-  -  -  !\    i;i   hi-   -n.  •.••-,-. 


8ETTLEMKXT   OF    LOAN  DA.  }  '7 

The  generous  Englishman  was  glut!  to  attend  him  in  hi- 
sickness,  and  happy  in  the  privilege  of  surrendering  his  o\vi. 
l>ed  to  the  man  who  had  known  no  better  pillow  than  tin.- 
ground  for  so  many  months.  And  not  only  Mr.  Gabriel,  but 
manv  Portuguese  gentlemen  were  eager  with  their  kindnc-><>, 
Whoever  has  not  felt  the  loneliness  of  such  a  lile  can  hardly 
•appreciate  fully  the  happiness  of  such  attentions.  The  friendly 
Makololo  had  been  kind  and  zealous  in  his  service,  but  thcv 
were-  heathen,  and  the  very  kindness  in  which  thev  proved  their 
love  onlv  provoked  a  deeper  anxietv,  for  thev  were  his  care;  in 
their  dn.-ky  forms  all  the  ignorance  and  ills  of  Africa  were 
revived  before  him.  It  was  very  pleasant  to  be  eared  tor  l»v 
equals,  whose  faces  revived  no  anxiety.  The  good  nnr.-ing  "f 
his  friend,  and  the  skill  of  Mr.  Cock  in,  surgeon  of  an  Kngli-h 
ship  which  stood  in  the  harbor,  with  the  presence  of  the  warm- 
hearted naval  officers,  were  mightier,  under  (iod,  than  the  ill- 
ness, and  Dr.  Livingstone  \\as  soon  sufficiently  restored  and 
refreshed  to  be  deeply  interested  in  all  surrounding  object*. 
JLoanda  itself,  with  its  loftv  dill's  casting  their  rugged  shadows 
on  the  sea,  whose  waves  are  forever  breaking  against  their  -ides, 
and  its  massive  castle  frowning  from  a  beetling  crag;  its  old 
stone  mansions  and  huts  of  daub  and  thatch;  its  motley  popu- 
lace of  Portuguese,  mulattoes  and  negroes;  its  harbor,  \vhere 
ships  of  all  nations  displav  their  flags,  is  a  place  worthv  of  the 
traveller's  attention.  But,  as  the  capital  of  Angola,  it  open.--  t»> 
him  a  volume,  imperfect  still  and  indistinctly  written,  but  car- 
rying him  back  to  the  same  eventful  era  in  which  our  own  land 
was  snatched  out  of  the  sea  and  made  known  to  the  world. 
About  the  time  Columbus  discovered  America,  Pie^o  ('am  wa« 
planting  the  ensign  of  Portugal  on  the  coast  of  Angola  ;  and  the 
city — '"  St.  Paul  de  Loand:1 '' — was  founded  in  1~>7^.  It  has 
been  a  splendid  city.  When  approached  from  the  sea.  its  Mr;* 
•  and  castles,  and  domes  and  spire-  and  stone  palace-,  all  \\hiie 
and  gleaming  in  the  sunshine — mas-ive  memorials  of  formei1 
glorv — contradict  the  thought  of  benighted  wilds.  Wh.ii  ap- 
proached f'ro.ii  the  inland,  the-  same  stately  structures  bur-t  on 
the  view  like  works  of  enchantment.  White  men  lean  ov  -  ;1  it- 
prows  ot'the'r  ship-  and  wonder  whv  so  vi^-orou.--  and  <l 
messenger  of  civili/ation  lias  stood  powerless  bv  the-*:,  <  ring 


1'J.S  PORTUGUESK    FAlI.fKK. 

three  hundred  years.  The  savage  ga/es  down  from  the  heights 
and  wonder-  what  -trange  |>ower  it  is  that  .-lands  hv  Uieir 
lorv-ts  and  deal-  with  |Mt>ple  in  the  >«-a. 

The  Portuguese  have  ii'>t  proven  themselves  eijual  to  the 
t;**k  of  lift  in;:  iij>  Africa.  Their  Ialx>rand  lotig-oimtituuxl  sway 
have  IM-CM  almo-t  fruitless.  The  dilapidation  of  I^nmda  tell* 
thi>  -tory  of  all  their  etl'ort-  in  Angola.  The  mark-  of  failure 
an-  -een  all  over  the  di-trii-t.  The  h.ihits  and  rii-imn-  of  the 
nativo  an-  liardlv  inotliiieti  ;  tht-ir  -ii|ii-r-titi<>n-.  an-  not  di>|»rllcd  ; 
th"ir  dfgnidation  i-  du-jH-iu^l.  Thr  \vhit«-  ta«-i  -  <.nl\-  snjtplv  a 
'•ontr:i-t  unfriendly  to  the  lihi'-k.  Tin-  d»-i-rt«-d  ronvcnts  and 
hroken  cro--.--  onlv  ca-t  ht-avv  .-hadow-  on  the  harhari.-m  thev 
have  not  enlighten. -d.  The  eivili/ation  ha-  oulv  tvranni/.eil 
heat  hem-in,  and  ha-  not  hi*l|Htl  it.  'I  he  eiir-e  of  dcgj'iienu'V 
ha-  followed  their  nnfaithfnliu •--,  and  -ettler-  them-rlve-  nerd 
ret'onnatioii.  Two  thiiiL'-  \\'en-  nnfortunatr :  the  I'urtuguese 
(  iovernmeiit  e-tal>!;-ln ••!  the  i-olonv  eov«-ton-!v,  and  Koinan 
Catholicism  «>-tahli-heil  tin-  mi->ion.  The  colony  c-(.u!d  not  U> 
a  -iiiii'~-.  which  Anight  onlv  \\ealili.  I  lie  ni:~~;on  e,>uld  onlv 
fail  wliifh  eneoiira^ed  -uper-tition  and  little  niofc  than  chan^ii! 
the  name-  of  Lr"d-.  lint  the  llii--"t:.-n  vi.la^c-  and  1  nnjiless 
altar-  nin-t  not  di-eonra^e  eivili/atioii  or  daunt  (  hri-tianitv. 
'I'hev  do  ii"t  pro\-i-  that  At'riea  i-  irr«  «l«vin:il»lr  ;  the\  onlv  call 
our  attention  to  a  mi-taken  |>o!iev.  and  liel|»  n-  touard  \vi-doin. 
Thev  fnrni-h  a  field  u  here  i-jnoraiiec  ha-  hecii  lirni-etl  under  the 

he.!    of'  il|telli'_'.  -||ee;    \v!|efe    .-  1 1 1  icl'-t  i  t  loll    >it-    III   1 1 1  It  -^1  \'    Illldel'    the 

-eal  of  ( 'hri-tianitv.  Angola,  with  IWtti.riifH'  .-tat  \«n-  ev«rv- 
\\hen-,  and  familiar  with  the  name-  ot'  |in.'~t-  and  -aim-,  erics 
piteoii-lv  to  the  ('hri-tian  world,  a-  >]•»-  the  heart  of  Africa. 

(  >ne  of  two  -pli-ndid  cathedral-  in  I/>anda  i-  now  a  \\ork- 
-h"j.,  and  the  traveller  -aw,  uith  -orrow.  o\.  n  tciiling  \\ilhin 
the  wall-  of  atiotlvr.  Manv  mi-eraUle  hut-  of  \\attie  and  danh 
have  cr>  pt  in  l>et\\.-i  n  the  -tone  mnn-ion-.  and  liall-naki-d  li!a-  k 
in-  ;i  t  rM-r  to  t  h.-ir  t-  !  i<-he-  r  ndi-r  the  -hado\\-  ot'  t  he  \\  all-  u  hi-n- 
the  i-riieiiix  hnnj-.  :i!id  parade  their  -tran-_'e  cn-toin-.  \>\  tin  -id<" 
ft!  |-".'irop.-an  liiMirv.  IVirkne--  and  li_'li!  <l\\ell  t<  ./et  her,  and 
alionf  them  a  halt'-  a-te  otl'-pi  'i  n  _'.  A  -!  rairje  .-nil  "  »1  mieiit  ot' 
intel li j.-H'-e  and  ijnoranci-,  of  (  'hn-tiamtv  and  Jctichi-m,  c\«-rt^ 

it         P'VS  111^'       l'-'A  el'. 


MAKOLOLO    ASTONISHMENT.  ]OQ 

Tin?  Makololo  attendants  of  Livingstone  had  shared  the 
kindness  which  was  so  generously  bestowed  on  their  master. 
Thev  had  time  to  indulge  their  curious  aina/emcnt,  ga/ing  on 
tlie  houses  and  churches  and  out  on  the  sea  where  the  various 
ships  were  anchored.  And  when  Livingstone  w;is  sufficiently 
recovered  to  go  with  them,  they  were  invited  to  visit  an  Kng- 
li^h  man-of-war.  The  stories  of  foul  play  praeti.-ed  so  fre- 
quently on  black  men  made  them  a  little  timid  ;  but  they  had 
confidence  in  their  ''  lather,''  and  soon  the  kind  attentions  of 
the  generous  sailors  made  them  feel  perfectly  assured.  Their 
confidence  was  almost  reverence  when  thev  learned  that  thess 
men  and  their  ship  were  here  to  put  down  tin;  trade  in  slave//. 
And  thev  were  delighted  when  thev  were  permitted  to  lire  oil  a 
cannon,  and  told  "  that  is  what  we  put  down  the  slave  trade 
with/'  Thev  were  amazed  at  the  si/e  of  the  ship.  "It  is  not 
a  canoe  at  all,"  they  cried  ;  "it  is  a  town  !"  They  called  the 
deck  the  "  kotla,"  but  the  rigging  perplexed  them,  and  thev 
were  heard  to  say,  "but  what  sort  of  town  is  it  that  you  must 
climb  up  into  with  ropes?  "  Thev  had  at  last  proven  fnllv  the 
faithfulness  of  Dr.  Livingstone;  they  had  absolutely  wandered 
all  through  the  great  ship  which  they  had  been  taught  to  dread 
as  the  dreaded,  cruellest  bondage,  as  more  horrible  than  death; 
they  had  been  kindly  entertained  by  other  white  men,  and  han- 
dled without  injury  their  great  guns.  Thev  gathered  about 
their  friend  with  absolute  trust  and  affection. 

The  recovery  of  Livingstone  was  too  speed v  to  be  permanent: 
a  severe  relapse  confined  him  again  to  the  bed  of  his  noble  host, 
and  a  long  and  wearying  illness  cut  him  off  from  his  followers 
and  held  him  a  prisoner  in  Loanda.  P>ut  -Mr.  (  Jabriel's  kind- 
ness was  unwavering  and  most  assiduous.  He  n<>r  onlv  nursed 
his  guest  faithfully,  but  assumed  aLrMin  the  care  of  the  Makololo. 
These  active  men  won  tin1  admiration  of  tho-e  who  saw  them 
by  the  promptness  with  which  they  entailed  in  their  -elf- 
support,  though  strangers  and  vi-Itoix.  Tn  the  ab-cnce  of  other 
employment,  they  began  a  hri<k  trade  in  firewood,  whi- h  they 
brought  in  from  the  neitrhhoriiiL:  forests  on  their  shoulders. 
They  were  then  employed  to  unload  a  car^o  of  coal.  Tlii-  )'1"'- 
mshed  them  with  something  to  tell  when  thev  returned  to  thei! 
own  people.  It  was  a  wonderful  thing  to  be  working  hard  a 


130  SLAVE   TRADE   OF    LOAXHA. 

''moon  ami  :i  half"  unloading  "  stones  that  burn/*  and  quit 
leaving  pleiitv  in  the  vt»el.  Indeed,  everything  in  eiviii/.ed 
I  ill-  is  wonderful  to  these  sons  of  tin-  di-tant  wildcriuss  land-. 
Anil  til--  etl'tvt  mi  tin-  minds  of  thoe  Mak"lolo  t>i'  their  lew 
months1  eoiitai-t  with  Knroncani;,  wh«>  treated  them  with  special 
kindin-.- — a  kiiidne.-.-  seeuml  hv  tln-ir  a.v-««  iation  with  the  great 

.-xp'oivr n-j^eM-  the  nu»t  hojw.Tul    iv--ilt-   for  ell'orts  made  in 

th»-  inic  -jiint  of  ('hri-t  for  the  enli^htenim-nt  of  Africa.  It 
there  had  Ix-rii  no  .-lave  trade  lV"i:i  l.'i;md:i;  it  tin-re  had  Ix-en 
fair  dealing  with  tli»-  nati\t->;  if  there  hail  lum  a  !_ri'ii<'rmi>  n-- 
L-o^iiitiuii  i if  their  manhood  at  the  dilli-n-nt  |i"-t-  o!'  the  1'ortn- 
i;u»->e  authority  ;  it  then-  had  U-en  el»-ar  ( 'hri-tian  in>t ruction 
by  the  pritvt.-.  ;  it'  then-  had  U-t-n  MO  m-w  -ii|>«  i--.;i[inii-  <  n^rafh-d 
on  their  ii_rlior.lliee  ;  if  the  OJM-II  IJilili-  had  l>reii  i_riv«-M  them  ill- 
stead  of  the  inysU-rions  enn-ilix  and  tin-  pii-tiire-  nt'  -ain(~;  it 
love  and  hone>t  in-tnii-ti"H  had  |M-»-H  i^iveii  in  the  [ilaci-  <>i 
enn-ltv  and  vijjorou>  inv~ti<-i.in,  \\lio  \\ill  -av  that  .\iiLr"l:i 
would  not  have  l»<-t-n  tin-  l>riurlit  .-pot  on  tlii-  i-oiitinent  ImiL'  :iur". 
touard  which  tin-  world  ini:_rht  1<«'U  \\ith  pride,  and  tor  \\hidi 
tli«-  i-hureh«--  iniirlil  Ljlnrifv  (MH!  ?  \\  ••  d«>ii"t  n«i-il  tneharjr 
tin-  l'ortn^iie-i-  with  brin_iriiiLi  almut  tin-  -lavi  trail.  l»\i.nd  tin- 
ei<i-l-.  Tin  i'f  i-  n-a.-'Mi  to  U-lieve  that  it  wa-  a  |>art  <>!  Atr'n-aii 
life  lnn-_'  U-tiiri-  tin-  -i-ttli-nn  nt  nl'  Luanda.  liiit  it  i-  a  pitv  that 
tl.r  «-ii|iidity  i  it'  nominal  (  'hri.-tians  \\a-  MI  ea^t  r  t<>  i  nilirai-e  tin- 
o;  ijiort  unit  v  \\  hi<  h  tin-  degradation  ot'  a  people  pn>ented.  It  i> 
a  -hann-  in  '  'hri-ti-nd-iin  that  tin-  iniM-rn--  di.-coven-d  in  a  m-- 
l.|i-i-tid  land  i-niild  r.vit<-  ciiiiiriii-rratioti  onlv  \slnn  tln-v  had 
-atial'-d  i-nvi-toii-in--.  N"  "in-  tiling  >"  eii'_':iLr'  d  tin-  heart  of 

L:vin_'-!'iin    a-  tin-  .-nppn  --i f  th--    ~la\«-    trade.       \\i-dninit 

in  ••<!  to  ciinli-—  our  tailh  in  all  th«-  v.  i  mi  i  mil-  <  liar^'  -  \\  liidi  are 
l.n.M.'ht  a_':iin-t  tho-i-  who  have  owinil  nn  11.  \\  ••  do  not  n.i-d 
to  i|ii>-ii<in  uln-tln-r  tin-  actual  i-ondition  o!  Alrn-an-  In  Id  in 
l».nd:i..''-  in  'i\i!i/-d  «  •  .ininnnil  i'--  i-  r-allv  ln:ti-r  than  tin  loinli- 
tioii  ,,;'  tlii,-.-  \\!|.,  -hrink  and  -hiidd-T  or  .-in-,  and  kill  in  tin- 
wild  land  of  tln-ir  nati vitv.  \\  •  do  not  in  •  <l  to  eon-idi  r  tin- 
fjin--t  ion  of'  t  In-  al'-olnt'-  -_riiilt  <  >r  inin«-i-iii-.'  i  ,|  -la  \i  ho  Id  MIL'  m 
tin-  li_'hf  of'  th'-  >-'ri|.tiir.--,  l«-ti.r.-  \\<-  oll'.-r  our  lnart%  -\mpa- 
ihi-  -  I'-r  til--  i  mill.-,  lif'--lon_'  I'fl'o.t-  of  fhi-  -iiiLrnlarl\  -  •..!:  -•  .-rat.  d 
man  to  »n_'a_"  tin-  h- ;irt  of  th»-  \\orld  t'-r  Al'ri'-a.  And  \\<- 


LIVINGSTONE'S  OPPOSITION.  131 

r.m  prny  with  him  when  we  find  him  importuning  (i«xl  out  of 
thn.st:  wildernesses  for  the  time  when  his  truth  mav  have  turned 
the  darkness  into  light,  and  when  no  man  shall  invade  the  con- 
tinent with  chains  of  any  other  bondage  than  Chrint's  constrain- 
ing love.  He  found  that  the  slave  system  existing  in  various 
parts  of  the  country  presented  one  of  the  most  perplexing  har- 
riers to  his  work,  and  found,  too,  that,  whatever  might  be  the 
contrast  between  negroes  in  America  and  their  ancestors  in 
Africa,  in  Africa  the  contrast  was  against  slavery.  Wherever 
he  found  the  tribes  distinguished  by  systems  of  slavery,  he 
found  deceptions  and  cruelties  and  superstitions  innumerable; 
while  in  the  tribes  which  denounced  slavery,  and  counted  cvcrv 
man  a  member  of  the  family  of  the  chief,  and  called  them.-elvcs 
"  men,"  he  found  generosity  and  kindness  and  comparative  in- 
telligence. As  a  missionary  in  Africa  he  could  only  lament  the 
s'ave  idea,  and,  depending  on  his  testimony  of  facts,  how  shall 
ve  not  lament  with  him  that  idea,  at  least  so  far  as  it  is  eon- 
mK'ted  with  the  internal  condition  of  that  unhappy  continent? 
And  how  shall  we  not  be  willing  to  sacrifice  all  theories  and 
privileges  for  the  speediest  redemption  of  those  Avild  tribes? 
Who  is  there  that  can  withhold  his  applause  and  his  help  when 
the  conversion  of  Africa  demands  the  closing  of  every  slave 
mart  on  its  coast,  and  the  moral  influence  of  the  world  again.-t 
the  systems  of  bondage  that  exist  in  the  social  structure  of  its 
tribes?  Livingstone's  denunciation  of  slavery  in  the  abstract 
'ras  grounded  not  so  much  on  anv  theory  of  justice  and  inju— 
lice,  or  idle  prejudice,  as  on  what  he  saw  to  be  the  evil  influence 
of  the  slave  trade  on  Africa,  and  its  natural  antagonism  for 
African  evangelization.  He  did  not  denounce  the  slaveholder- 
and  go  to  Africa,  but  he  went  to  Africa,  and  after  long  ob-erva- 
tion  testified  to  the  world  that  evcrv  slave  .-hi}>  which  touched 
that  continent  drove  it  into  deeper  degradation,  and  on  behalf 
of  its  hundred  million  souls  pleaded  au'ain-t  them.  Hi-  heart 
was  encouraged  bv  the  presence  of  an  Kn^li-li  commissioner  for 
tlu>  suppression  of  this  trade  in  the  person  of  such  a  man  :i-  Mr. 
Gabriel,  and  by  the  presence  in  the  port  of'  Knuli-h  p»\\cr  to 
prevent  it  ;  but  it  was  t|iiite  clear  that  the  strictest  vigilance  and 
the  iuo-t  sincere  purpo-e  had  not  been  successful  in  etll-etually 
preventing  its  continuance.  The  cupidity  of  the  \  \-.\- \> 


l.',2  LABOR    IN    ANGOLA. 

too  i^n-at  ami  their  wares  too  tempting.  The  one  wn-urtil  them 
jM«sM»i<>n  of  Lrreat  numbers  of  the  poor  creatures,  the  other 
toil  nil  nu-un-  to  disjuise  of  them. 

Tin-  aimndaiHx1  of  thi-  unrt' \vanlitl  laU>r  throughout  Angola 
had  pmhahlv  Uvii  the  eaii-v  of  inin-h  nr^li^rin •.-  in  tin-  masters 
of  tlu-  -<>il.  Tin-  appliance*  of  a«;riruliure  \\rtv  almo-t  entirely 
wanting,  though  the  >"il  i>  >iimularlv  ti-rtilr  and  <>ll<-r>  a  won- 
derful reward  li>r  imlu-trv.  ('ottoii  ^m\v>  alnio>t  :L-  fnt-lv  as 
the  nativ«-  ^r:i-«->,  ami  r<.tli-«-(  tlmujh  prolcihlv  iinj>ort«tl,  H 
found  in  mans-  plaet-i  i:ro\vin«j  m-i-i  luxuriantly  and  yielding 
aluindant Iv  with  hardlv  an\  at!<-nli'i;i.  Indciil,  alino-i  every 
varit-iv  <>l  fruit  and  vr^riaMr  and  important  arti'-lc  ot'  ajri- 
ciilture  is  tu-ilv  rean-d  in  tin-  -|>l<'n-l;d  valK\-  <>1  t In-  d:-tnrt. 
Yft  -in_riilarlv  i-ntni-jh  tin  n-  \\  a-  ti»und  im  iinplfiiifiil  of  laix-r 
e\e»-pt  the  (xfiiliar  Angola  hoe  with  ilouble  handle,  \\lii.-h  i> 
ilnivjjjiil  la/ilv  alon^r  a<-ro—  thi-  uri'"iind  to  make  a  p!a«'f  l"r  tin.' 
»f»-d.  whii-h  \\ln-n  o;ic«'  dr[i.i-ilc(l  i-  l.'ft  to  it-  own  vitality  and 
tin*  favor  of  riimatc  and  -oil  until  tin-  harvi--t.  1  'In-  la!  >"i'  "t 
eilltivatiiii;  tin-  land-  tali-  to  the  women.  The  IIP  n  are  111.1  di-- 
tinL'iii-licd  l»v  a-  iniifh  indu-trv  a-  th«'  wonii-n.  and  work  >< 
It-i-UP-lv  at  thfir  w<-avin'_'  that  thfv  milv  prodiici-  a  -in^Ii-  \\i-l>. 
a  ti-w  {••*•!  in  IciiL'th  and  t\\«'iitv  inehr-  wide,  in  a  month  ;  r<<-< -iv- 
in^  .'iilv  two  -lulling-  tlir  thi-:r  ta-k  and  material.  I  IK-IV  ari  in 
vanoii-  |>la'-"--  ruin-  "t  inaiiuta«'i«irie<,  and  tra<-i-  ot  lonniT 
work-  in  iron  and  cojip.-r.  Tin-  nativf-  havi-  ln-ronir  r\c--cd- 
iniilv  t'»nd  o('  liartt-r.  in  \\iii'-li  tiicv  ••\fhaiii.r<i  with  loo|i-li  pn>- 
di_'a!i!\-  anvthiliLT  tln-v  mav  i;i-t  tln-ir  hand-  on  f..r-iii-h  articles 
a-  mav  -triki-  tlp-n-  lain-v.  Tip.-.'  \\  ho  an-  lirld  a-  -lav*--  mani- 
(,-t  a  pi-rt'-.-t  mania  t'pr  -i.-a!iii'_r.  and  an-  alwav-  n-adv  \\it!i  anv 
aaioiin'  of  I\  in_r  to  coii'-'-al  tln-ir  tip  ft-.  Tln-ir  i-hiff  !'•»»!  i-  tin1 
inaiii'"-  :  and  they  an-  in  ron-.-,|ii'-ip-.  mon-  ••tli-mina'"  than  tln-v 
'.\ou!i|  !•••  \sith  a  -troipj.r  di--t.  Tip  v  ad-,  lik.-  manv  of  tip* 
lip'T'  miand  Tr:l>"~.  drradfullv  -up«-|--t  it  i.  -n-,  and  ••In-ri-h  -omc 
r:ran_'--  and  rnn-1  «-n-jom>.  \\hirh  -jii'in^  tV"iu  tln-ir  1 ..  !i,f-. 
I'h-  '.  •  an  !iai'd!\-  !"•  •  til-d  id'.lat.-r-  in  tip'  -li'i'-t  -.  n-«  ,,f  ||p- 
t'-rm,  l)-«'aM-'-  tip-  uor-htpoi  id"l-  imjili''-  an  iiltimati- a|ip«-al 
fo  a  Siijip-nn-  |'..in_'.  'I  IP  %  af  I'.-tP-h  \\  or-hi|.|M  i  -.  Tip- 
d:!l'.  n  IP-'  I..  ?-,\.  .  n  tli.-m  :n,d  ido];iti-r-  i-  that  t  IP  \  do  n<>(  <-on- 
hid«T  the  oliji-f1!  u|iph  t|p-s  Ixiw  down  U-fori-  a-  an  ima_-<-  of  an 


1'OUTUOUE.SK    I'eiMe  V.  133 

Unseen  Heing,  but  as  itself  jKWsessing  the  power  to  which  they 
appeal.  Perhaps  (here  is  no  lonn  of  heathen  Ix.-licf  >o  degrad- 
ing and  oppressive  :LS  this,  none  which  leaves  the  worship|>cr 
nn»re  a  prev  to  his  own  vicious  imagination,  or  allbrd*  Mi«-h 
opportunities  lor  the  abuses  of  the  priests  who  minister  at  the 
strange  altars. 

Dr.  Livingstone  found  many  traces  of  the  early  Jesuit  teach- 
ing, which  inspired  him  with  respect  for  these?  men,  as  having 
really  sought  to  benefit  those  whom  thcv  taught;  and  in  manv 
places  thcv  an;  remembered  bv  the  natives  kindly,  while  the 
priests  who  succeeded  them  are  only  referred  to  bitterly. 

There  was  nothing  seen  of  the  boldness  and  courage;  among 
the  natives  which  frequently  excited  his  admiration  for  their 
sable  brothers  in  the  distant  forests  which  he  had  left.  The 
prevailing  slavery  and  military  government  of  the  Portuguese 
have  taken  away  whatever  spirit  may  have  distinguished  them  in 
former  times.  The  African  is  generally  in  great  terror  of  tire- 
arms,  and  a  dismantled  fort  with  only  a  useless  cannon  fills 
the  regions  around  with  awe  and  will  hold  entire  communities 
in  subjection. 

The  country  is  divided  with  some  regularity  by  the  govern- 
ment at  Loanela,  and  there  are  officials  known  as  commanders 
occupying  these  several  districts,  who,  having  little  else  to  do, 
and  being  poorly  paid  bv  their  government,  have  time  and 
temptation  to  abuse  the  natives  by  all  sorts  of  impositions  and 
extortions.  These  gentlemen  generally  accumulate  large  prop- 
erties and  seem  to  enjoy  great  serenity  in  their  little  tyrannies. 
These  Portuguese  authorities  manage  quite  shrewdly  to  relieve 
themselves  of  as  much  care  as  possible,  and  at  the  sune  time 
maintain  the  real  authority  over  the  people,  by  taking  advantage 
of  the  gradations  into  which  native  society  is  divided. 

"This  man.  for  instance,  is  .-till  a  sova  or  chief,  has  his 
councillors,  and  maintain-  the  same  state  as  when  the  country 
was  independent.  When  any  of  his  people  are  guilty  of  theft, 
he  pays  down  the  amount  of  iroods  stolen  at  once,  and  reim- 
burses him-elf  out  of  the  property  of  the  thief  so  effectually  as 
to  be  benefited  by  the  transaction.  The  people  under  him  are 
divided  into  a  number  of  ela-ses.  There  are  his  councillors,  as 
the  highest,  who  are  generally  head  men  wf  several  villages,  and 


134  TKADK    IN    1VOKV. 

the  carriers,  the  lowest  fre*-  men.  <  >ne  class  above  the  lu.-t 
obtains  th«-  privilege  of  wearing  -hoe-  from  the  chief  l»y  paving 
for  it;  another,  tin-  soldier-  or  militia,  pav  for  the  privilege  of 
-'•rviiiLT,  the  advantage  U-ing  that  thev  an-  not  afterward  liable 
to  IK-  mail*1  carrier-.  Thev  an-  al.-o  divided  into  gentlemen,  and 
little  gentlemen,  and,  though  cjnite  black,  -jirak  of  themselves 
a»  white  mi  11,  and  of  tin-  others,  who  mav  not  wear  S|IIM->.  a- 
'  black-.'  " 

Tin-  lordlv  masters  of  th<%  region  manite.-t  little  eomvrn 
whether  tlu-ir  sul)JM-ts  \\or~liiji  a  lui-h,  or  tin-  .-an,  or  ( 'hri.-t,  it 
onlv  tht-ir  plantation-  and  o^-lianl*  vidd  ali:indantlv,  and  their 
jxK-ki-ts  <;ro\vii)(f  vrarlv  more  plt-th<irir  proiiii.-r  leisure  and 
eonilort  •.vhcn  th«'V  uo  liai-k  to  tln-ir  own  eountrv. 

N«-\t  to  th«'  trade  in  -!ave>,  perha|>s  the  nio-t  material  exp<  •{ 
from  Loainla  in  the  pa-t  lia>  IMI-II  ivorv,  which  i^  brought  lV"  11 
the  interior  li\'  mean-  ot  -lave  earner-  in  threat  (iiiantities  ;  a;  «1 
since  the  -cri-ni-  efl'.irt-  Il>r  the  siipprfs>ion  of  the  liirmer,  tlr- 
latter  article  i-  -jretitlv  incrcaxnl  in  relative  value.  Slave-,  i'.  - 
dei-d,  are  vi-rv  eh"aj>.  I  >i\  Li\'inj--l":ie  mention-  M-<-in^  a  1"  v 
twelve  vear-  old  -old  (I -r  a  -inirle  f..\vl,  which  wa-  the  eijuivn- 
lent  nt'  onlv  a  poiind  or  t\vo  «>!'  iv.irv.  . \lmo-t  fahnloiis  nun  - 
IMT-  of'  tn-k-  are  linxigiil  out  In-  the  trader-  vearlv.  And  u- 
there  i-  no  wajoii  \vav,  and  all  Imrden-  mn-t  l»e  eonvc\-«-d  !.v 
hand,  there  are  'jreat  numher-  of  men  who  are  cniplovetl  e\- 
cln-ivelv  in  tin-  Ial>or.  1  he-e  carriers  were  jitniii-rlv  fi>re»d 
into  -.'I'vii-e  in  anv  numix'is,  a-  the  demand  mi^ht  -ii'j'_re-t  ;  and 

•ven  rio-.v  it    i-   more  a   -erviee   nf  cfitnpuUi«>n  than  \\  illiiiL'ii' -- ; 
j'.r  the  •jiivernnient,  while  almost  1'ori-ed  in  self-n-peei    to  t  naet 

•••.-  whieli  have  a  show  of  kindne—  and    jn-tice,  p-allv  eneoiir- 

•  •-   Hi"  di-re^anl  of  th'M1    lavv-    \>\'  the    leliirnev   \\illi   \\lmli   it 

nd-    their  violation    \>\-   die  ditlen-nl    eoniniandi-r-.      I   n\\il- 
_'  '  •  !'•  !iiH|ui~li  it-  antli'irilv  in  Angola,  the  I'ortu^ne-e  home 

•  :•'  rimn  nt  •••i-ni-  eijnallv  unwilling  to  -njipor;  it  li\    the  mie-- 
-  ii'V  •  \  |>  ••!!-••,  and    preti-r-    to    lure   oiVe-ial-    (or  i!   \<\    rich  »^,y(.,/-- 
l<    lift'.*    r.'i'h'r    than    reasonable   -a'arn--.       Il    eaniiot    cane.  1    ill.- 
oj  IJM  .rtunit  M-  without    ineria-inj    th"   -alan-  -,  -o    the   ih-n-^ard 
ol    all  protective   nrdnianee*   i-  \\mkeil  at.  and  tin-  native-  -crve 
tor  not  hinj-. 

It    ;-    int- re-'in  _'   to   .,!,-.i-\-,     i;,  ;!;.    natives  of  Angola   -\\lio. 


\ 


coMrn>oRY  sKKvirK  iv  ANT.OT.A. 


"  me.  Fr.\i:uAi,s."  ]:;; 

indeed,  aro  more  of  the  negro  type  than  many  <>f  the  tribes — 
much  the  same  disposition  to  imitate  the  more  enlightened 
white  people,  as  we  know  to  be  a  feature  of  ueirro  eharaetei  in 
our  own  country,  and  naturally  enough  thev  succeed  !><-t  in 
those  particulars  which  are  least  commendable.  The  better 
(j'lalities  in  people  hardly  ever  impress  themselves,  as  Ibrcibh 
on  the  minds  of  the  untutored  as  do  others.  The-e  Angeles 
negroes,  for  instance,  have  developed  ;i  singular  fondness  <bi 
litigation,  iti  which  they  are  reckless  of  all  results  if  oulv  ;hc\ 
mav  have  the  comfort  ol'  taking  an  antagonist  to  court.  Living- 
stone mentions  a  ease  which  came  before  the  weeklv  court,  of 
the  commandant,  involving  property  in  a  palm  tree  worth  two- 
pence. The  judge  advised  the  pursuer  to  withdraw  the  cn.-e, 
as  the  mere  expenses  of  entering  it  would  be  much  more  than 
the  cost  of  the  tree.  "  Oh,  no,"  said  he;  "I  have  a  piece  of 
calico  with  me  for  the  clerk,  and  nionev  for  yourself.  It's  mv 
right  ;  I  will  not  forego  it."  The  calico  itself  cost  three  or  four 
shillings.  Thev  rejoice  if  thev  can  sav  of  an  enemv,  "  I  toi.k 
him  before  the  court." 

Thev  have  also  a  great  ambition  for  titles  and  display,  n 
which  the  Portuguese,  who  have  as  little  scruples  ah-tut  color  is 
they  have  about  slavery,  indulge  them  quite  freely.  It  is  not 
uncommon  for  them  to  invite  these  pettv  chiefs,  whom  thev  re- 
tain in  a  seeming  authority  for  their  own  convenience,  to  their 
feasts,  and  they  always  appear  with  a  show  of  importance  which 
is  sometimes  extremely  grotesque. 

Funerals  here,  as  in  other  sections,  call  foHi  the  greatest 
excitement  and  justify  all  the  excesses  imaginable.  The  highest 
ambition  is  a  grand  funeral,  and  furnishes  occasion  fi>r  more 
than  ordinary  forethought.  Frequently  when  one  i-  a-ked  tr. 
sell  a  pig,  he  replies,  "  I  am  ke'-ping  it  in  case  of  the  death  of 
any  of  my  friends/'  A  pig  is  usually  slaughtered  and  eaten  on 
the  last  dav  of  the  ceremonies,  and  its  head  thrown  into  tin 
nearest  stream  or  river.  A  native  will  sometimes  appear  intox- 
icated on  these  occasions,  and.  if  blamed  for  his  intemperance, 
will  reply,  "  \Vhv  !  mv  mother  i>  dead  !  "  as  it'  he  thought  it  a 
surtlcient  justification.  The  expenses  of  funerals  are  ~o  heavy 
that  often  years  elapse  before  thev  can  defrav  them.  The  rites 
are  half  festive,  half  mourning,  partaking  somewhat  uf  the 


138  POISON   ORDEAL. 

character  of  an  Irish  wake,  flu-re  is  nothing  more  heart- 
rending than  their  death  wails.  When  tin-  nativ»s  turn  their 
eves  t<>  the  future  world,  thev  have  a  \  i<  w  cheerless  enough  of 
their  own  utter  helplessness  ami  hop.  le.--ne~-.  Tiny  fanc\ 
themselves  completely  in  the  po  \\ei-  of  tin-  di>eml>odied  .-pirit>, 
and  look  ujxin  the  pr«»peet  of  following  tin  in  as  the  grcatoi  ot 
nu-tbrtnnc-.  Hence  they  an-  miislantly  deprecating  the  wrath 
of  departed  souls,  believing  that,  if  thev  arc  apjMiisetl,  there  i> 
no  other  can*e  of  death  but  witchcraft,  which  inav  IK-  avcrtcil 
hv  eharrns.  'J'he  whole  of  the  colored  [H>pnlation  of  Angola  are 
Mink  in  these  gross  superstitions,  hut  have  tin-  opinion,  notwith- 
standing, that  they  are  wiser  in  the-e  matter*  than  their  white 
neighl>ors.  Kach  trihe  ha.-  a  coii-ciou-ne*-  of  following  it*  own 
U>t  intere>t.-  in  the  U-*t  wav.  Thev  arc  1>\'  no  mean*  destitute 
of  that  s^'lf-fsUfin  which  i>  >o  eomnion  in  other  nati"n*;  \(| 
thev  fear  all  manner  of  phantom.*,  and  have  half-developed 
idea*  and  traditions  of  something  or  other,  thev  know  n..t  \\hat. 
( )nc  of  tin-  mo*t  distre»ing  m-tmns  irmwing  mil  of  the  *n|»  r- 
-tition  ot'  the*.'  pcujile  i-  tin  ir  :i|>|)'-al  to  tin-  "  p.ii*,.n  or«l.  al  "  i;, 
ca-e*  ot  allegitj  guilt.  1  he  draught  i*  prepared  h\  ceriain 
jirie-t*  <»r  preteiniiil  diviner*  at  a  particular  -\»>l  on  the  l>anK* 
of  the  riv  r  I  na.  It.*  etVe<-t*  diili-r  in  proportion  to  the  *tivnuMh 
or  weakness  ot'  the  d<-coction.  hi  a  weaker  *tate  it  remain-  in 
t»u-  *tomach  and  produce*  a  horrible  d.ath;  \\lien  .-.trouper,  it 
•  •in-e~.  violent  vomiting,  :md  i-  not  tatal.  It  i-  ca-ilv  undcr- 

-(OIM!    how    t  lie  experienced    pl'ie-t    \\  l|o   a'  1  111  i  I)  i-tel'.*    it    IliaV    ilccidc 

the  de-tinv  of  a  pocir  victim  ot'  the  terrible  delu.-ion.  It'  the 
draught  caii-e*  d'-ath  it  i-  con-id<  r>  d  proof  |>o-itive  of  guilt,  and 
manv  a  pour  wit'e  oi  le*pi-ed  daughter  ha.*  (alien  a  victim  l*v 
the  aL"'iic\'  "f  t!ii~  appeal  t"  the  e,.iite!n;  t  or  unfaithfulne**  ot' 
,).•!•  tri'-nd-  or  hu-baml.  h  i-  an  a\\  fill  ordeal  for  the  people. 


S'-ni--  writer-  lia\-«-  -j.ok.n  ol'  An_ro!a  a-  aboiindinir  in  \\ild 
niiimal-.  but  \siili  very  little  e\-id«-ii'i-.  It  -••••in-  ^••nerallv 
taken  tl.r  •jranN  d  that  be^-an-e  there  are  t«-r"eion-  ni'-n-ti  r-  in 
home  -•'•ii<*n-  of  iln-  e.  .nt  IIP  nt  that  tln-\  mav  llierejbre  1»< 
;t—  nni'd  !"!»•  anvwhere  and  evervwhere.  1  In  re  ^(,-m-.  to  be 
ratlnr  an  i-.xlniordinarv  ab-i -n« -e  ot'  -ueh  inhabitant.-  in  .\i)Lr"la. 
Kven  the  t>-\\  \\hieh  mav  be  there  are  -o  intimidated  and  -jiirit- 


THE   SELF    DENIAL.  J.'iii 

less  that  they  take  no  part  in  tin-  incidents  of  the  day,  and  are 
the  victims  of  traps  rather  than  arms. 

Dr.  Livingstone  thought  that  he  discovered  a  peculiarly  dis- 
piriting etleet  of  the  climate  on  the  people-  themselves,  which  is 
hardly  in  keeping  with  the  idea  of  multitudes  of  wild  bcaMs. 
He  mentions  that  even  the  hulls  are  spiritless  and  .-crve  like 
oxen  lor  riding.  "1  never  met  a  ferocious  one  in  the  coimtrv," 
says  he. 

The  time  at  length  came  when  his  health  was  so  far  renewed 
that  he  might  resume  his  travels.  Lying  in  the  harltor  was  ;in 
English  vessel,  and  her  captain  offered  him  passage  homeward. 
The  temptation  was  very  great.  More  than  two  years  had 
passed  since  he  parted  with  his  wile,  fourteen  years  since  'i.- 
entered  Africa  at  the  Cape.  Oh  how  his  heart  longed  for  tar 
old  scenes  once  more!  The  warm  friends  in  England,  the  lo»- 
ing  wife  and  children,  and  at  Blantyrc,  on  the  Clyde,  there 
were  dear  cherished  ones  fading  now,  and  iorms  growing 
weaker  everyday.  The  murmuring  of  the  sea  might  he  tic 
voices  of  those  dear  ones  calling  him  to  receive  the  last  blcssinif. 
If  he  turned  again  into  the  wilderness,  could  he  endure  another 
journey  like  the  last?  Would  he  pass  the  hostile  border  tribes 
Kifely  ?  Where  would  he  again  look  out  on  the  sea?  An  1 
why  should  he  go?  He  was  now  convinced  that  there  could 
be  no  highway  from  Angola  into  central  Africa.  Wagon.-  could 
not  possibly  follow  his  footsteps  across  the  mountains  and 
flooded  valleys,  and  through  the  covetous  and  unfriendly  tribes 
that  had  beset  his  life  so  resolutely.  And  where  in  all  that 
region  could  he  hope  to  establish  a  mission?  And  whv  simplv 
retrace  his  steps  over  so  great  a  distance?  ^\  hv  not  vield  to 
the  kind  solicitations  of  his  generous  friend  and  look  on  the 
hills  and  valleys  of  his  own  native  land  once  more,  and  make 
glad  the  hearts  of  his  aged  parents,  and  comfort  his  patient, 
faithful  wife,  and  smile  on  his  own  children?  Surely  all  hi.-t<>ry 
cannot  produce  an  instance  of  more  delicate  eonscientiousnes> 
and  nobler  benevolence  than  he  undesignedly  reveals  when  l.< 
says:  "I  had  brought  a  party  ofSekeletu's  people  with  me.  ami 
found  the  tribes  near  the  Portuguese  settlements  so  very  un- 
friendly that  it  would  be  altogether  impossible  for  them  t<>  re- 
turn aloue.  I  therefore  resolved  to  decline  the  tempting  <>:: 
9 


14"  I  IiKPAKTl'KK    FROM    I.OANDA. 

ami  take  my  Makololo  l»a--k  t  •  their  chief."  I-  it  wonderfu. 
lliat  »u< -I i  a  man  >hoii!d  In-  aiile  to  walk  uj»  ami  down  among 
-.ivaje-V  It  \\  a-  the  -pirit  of  Cliri.-i  Chining  out  in  everything 
In-  di«l  \\hii-h  ehariuiil  them  ami  m;uK-  him  a  m:i>tcr,  while  he 
cal'.i-d  tin-in  hi-  friend-.  Tin  IT  wa-,  however,  thr  additional 
lii-.ii^ht  and  de-ire  that  from  thr  Makololo  country  he  might 
follow  the  Zaml>c-i  t»  thr  coa.-t  on  the  ca-t,  and  jw»s>il>lv  find  a 
hijjjhwav  li»r  the  <_r<l>p<  1  to  the  hidden  h"!nc-  of  the  millions  of 
pi  «>r  •  !'  graded  U  ing-  who  wen-  pa.— ing  aero--  the  -tage  of  life, 
•\ho  Y\<IV  -pending  the  probation  f.r  ct«-rnit\'  in  lu-lplrss  ignor- 
aii'-f  and  "  pa.— in::  awav  in  darkness." 

Funii-hed  \\ith  a  numlx-r  of  pre-ent-  fi.r  S •}•><  \<  tn,  including 
w  ln>r-e  and  a  complete  c<>!<>tn T-  uniform,  and  -nit-  of  clothing 
!-.r  all  the  men  whv  accDinpaniitl  him  to  Loamla,  and  tir-t-nito 
-pe.-inien-  ot'  the  dillcrciit  article-  ot  trade,  and  t\\  o  donkevs, 
\\hich  are  the  more  valtialilf  a-  Ix'in^  prix»f  atrain-t  the  t.-et.-e, 
\vhii'h  are  the  Kane  of  the  Makololo  conntrv,  and  having  iv- 
.-i-ived  letter-  of  commendation  to  the  Portuguese  authorities  in 

•  •a-t'-rn  . \lri--a,  I  >r.  Li\'in_'-t"!i'-  and    hi-    li»l lower-  l«-t't  St.  1'anl 
de    Luanda    on    tin-  'J'lth  of  S-ptetnlxT,  1  >•"»  1,  after   a    little    le».- 
?lia:i  fniir  inonth>,  nejirlv  all  "t  \»hich  had  Iteen  -pent  in  painful 
iilne.—.      A  fre-h  -upplv  ••!'  ammunition  and  head-,  \\ith  a  ^uod 
-t'H-k  of  doth,  wa-   a   preeautinn    'juite    in    place,  ami  a  mu-ket 
;i|>i--ee   f, ,r   hi-   men   eiiaMed    them  to  juv-eiit  a  more  !< inn idal tie 
d:-p!av,  and  hid  a  more  -eriou-  defiance  it'  it  -hould  IK-  ne<-<  -siry 
in    pa-~in_r    the    pugiiaciou-    tnhe-    lievoml    the    (.^uaiiu'".       The 
Makololo  had    accumulate^   a  con-idi -rahle  amount  of  trea-ures, 
uhich  mad-'    it    m-ci--arv  to    'm-rea-e    the    partv  l>v  the   addition 
of  tw«-nt\'  carri'-r-,  who  were  -upplied  !-\'  the  Ui-hnp  of'  Angola. 

Tin  jiartv  had  the  compnnv  of  Mr.  (  ial'iiel  a-  fir  a-  Icollo  i 
\\  n_'o,  \\her--  thev  \'i-it«-<l  a  larje  -iiL'ar  r-  tim-rv  l^-lnnifing  to 
!>-:>:ii  Anna  da  Soii-a.  :»  lad\  o-,\  ner  of  \a-t  nnml>«-r-  of -lave.-, 
v,  ho  -•••;ii'-d  to  !>.•  ti'\']iiLT  t"  furi)l-h  an  illtl-tratloll  ol  h"\\  little 
ni. iv  !•••  do:ii  li\-  a  mult  it  ud'-  iioininallv  at  work. 

Th'-v  pa----d  a!o!i-j  -ome  di-tam-.-  m  ar  t  he  ri\  -T  S.  n/a.  (  >f 
thi-  r-  _ri  'ii  I  .i'.  i!r_'-!"!i''  siv- :  "  The  \\  h-.lt  of  t  lii-  parl  of  ih, : 
<-"ii;itrv  i-  enrnpii-eil  ••!  iiiarlv  tufa,  '•onlainin^  the  -aim-  kind  of 
,.!I.M-  a-  tli"-'  .1;  pr-  -•  nt  ali\'e  in  tin-  -<-a-*.  A-  \\  ••  advamitl 

•  •a-f  -.-.  ard  a:  id  a--  •  nd-  d  t  h-   h;_rh'  r  land-,  \\  e  found  eruptive  trap, 


MAKOLOLO    HOASTINGH.  ]  jj 

which  li:ul  tilted  up  immense  masses  of  mica  and  sand.-tono 
Behists.  The  mica  schist  almost  alwavs  dipj>ed  toward  the  in- 
terior of  the  country,  forming  those  mountain  rangis  of  which 
we  have  already  spoken  as  giving  a  highland  character  to  the 
district  of  Golnngo  Alto.  The  trap  has  frequently  run  through 
the  gorges  made  in  the  upheaved  rocks,  and  at  the  points  of 
junction  between  the  igneous  and  older  rocks  there  are  large 
quantities  of  strongly  magnetic  iron  ore.  The  clavev  soil 
formed  by  the  disintegration  of  the  mica  schist  and  trap  is  the 
favorite  soil  for  the  codec;  and  it  is  on  these  mountain  sides, 
and  others  possessing  a  similar  red  clay  soil,  that  this  plant  has 
propagated  itself  so  widely.  The  meadow  lauds  adjacent  to  the 
Sen /a  and  Coan/a  being  underlaid  by  that  marly  tufa  which 
abounds  toward  the  coast,  and  containing  the  same  shells,  show 
that,  previous  to  the  elevation  of  that  side  of  the  eountrv,  this 
region  possessed  some  deeply-indented  bays." 

The  men  experienced  much  inconvenience  now  in  travelling, 
because  the  hard,  dry  roads  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  journey 
caused  considerable  soreness  of  the  feet.  But  their  minds  were 
full  of  the  wonderful  things  they  had  seen,  and,  like  great  chil- 
dren, they  were  ever  planning  narratives  to  be  told  when  they 
reached  their  homes  again,  and  composing  songs  in  honor  of 
their  achievements.  Thev  would  sav  to  their  leader:  "It  is 
well  you  came  with  the  Makololo,  for  no  tribe  could  have  done 
what  we  have  accomplished  in  coining  to  the  white  man's  eoun- 
trv. We  are  the  true  ancients  who  can  tell  wonderful  things." 

Some  time  was  spent  in  the  neighborhood  of  Golungo  Alto, 
enjoying  the  hospitality  of  the  commander,  M.  Canto,  who  was 
deeplv  interested  in  the  improvement  of  the  country.  One  of 
the  most  remarkable  little  creatures  in  all  Africa  came  under 
the  observation  of  Dr.  Livingstone  in  this  neighborhood  ;  and 
because  the  account  is  itself  full  of  intere.-t,  and  localise  the 
accuracy  of  it  illustrates  a  feature  in  tin-  character  of  the  man, 
which  has  contributed  verv  largelv  to  the  singular  success  of' 
his  life,  we  prefer  to  give  it  fully  in  his  own  language.  lie 
says:  "Before  leaving,  I  hud  ;m  opportunity  of  observing  a 
curious  insect  which  inhabits  a  tree  of  the  fig  family  i  Fi'-u#} 
upwards  of  twenty  species  of  which  are  found  here;  seven  or 
eight  of  them  cluster  round  a  spot  on  one  of  the  smaller 


1IJ  HKMAKKAIU.K    IXSttTS. 

branches,  and  there  keej»  up  a  constant  di.-tillation  of  a  clear 
Huid,  which,  dropping  to  thf  ground,  form.-  a  little  puddle 
l>clow.  il'a  vesfesel  is  placed  under  them  in  tin-  evening,  it  con- 
tain- thr«f  or  tour  pints  of  fluid  in  the  inornin<_r.  The  natives' 
KIV  that,  if  a  drop  falls  into  the  eve,-,  it  i-ui-c-  inHaninmtion  of 
th«->c  or<_r'.in-.  To  the  question,  whence  i-  tin-  fluid  derived, the 
people  replv  that  the  insects  Mick  it  out  of  the  tree,  and  our  own 
natnrali-ts  <jive  the  same  an-\ver.  1  have  never  -ecu  an  orifice, 
and  it  i-  st-an-ely  possible  that  the  tree  can  vield  -o  much.  A 
similar  luit  much  smaller  homopteroti-  in-eet.  of  the  familv 
( 'rrotjtiilir,  is  known  in  Kngland  :i>  the  frng-hopjMT  Ajfhrnjthttrti 
tfiumiiriti),  when  full  grown  and  furni-hed  \\ith  wins;-,  luit 
while  -till  in  the  pupa  state  it  i.-  called  '  <  'm-l;»»-,--j>it,'  fr<>m  tli  - 
nia,— of  froth  in  which  it  envelops  it. -elf'.  The  circulation  «i  ;' 
Kip  in  plant.-  in  our  climate,  esjM-eiallv  of  the  jrraminaeeji1,  is  i\.  ,\ 
ijiii'  k  enough  to  vield  much  inoi.-ture.  The  African  -p«'cie-  i- 
h've  or  -ix  times  the  si/e  of  the  Kn^'li-h.  In  the  C;L-C  c  f 
liranehis  of  the  fiir  tree,  the  point  the  insivt- eouirre^uU1  on  • 
HM)n  markitl  bv  a  number  of  incipient  root.-,  such  a-  are  throw  n 
out  when  a  cutting  i-  in-crt«-«l  in  the  ^nuiii'l  i\>r  the  purpo-e  <  »' 
-lartin^  another  tr--e.  I  l>e!ie\e  that  lioth  the  Kuj^li-h  an  1 
Alric.in  in-eets  belong  to  the  .-a me  family,  and  dilli-r  only  i,i 
-!/••,  and  that  the  chief'  part  of  the  moisture  i-  derived  from  the 
atmosphere.  1  have  it  for  naturali-ts  to  explain  how  the-e 
little  creature^  tli-til  hoth  hv  ni^ht  and  dav  a-  much  water  a- 
fliev  pl'ii-e,  and  arc  more  inde|H'ii(lent  than  her  ma|e-tv'-  -tcam- 
-!iij»~,  with  th'-ir  a|»parntu-  fi>r  conden^in^  -team  ;  for,  without 
«-o:il,  th'-ir  alitindant  supplie-  of'  -ea-\\ater  are  o|  no  avail.  I 
tried  the  following  experiment:  I1  indin^  a  cul<inv  of  the^e  m- 
-e.-t-  Ini-ilv  ili-t  i !!  in_r  on  a  branch  "t  tin-  L'tfimi.--  <•.»//*//('<//<>•.  or 
c-.!»f"r-ojl  plant,  1  "lennd.  d  al»'ii!  'Ji>  inche-  o|'  t!,e  bark  on  tip- 
trie  ~\.\.-  (1j'  the  in-eet-,  and  -cmped  a'Aav  the  inner  bark.  M>  a- 

\H    d'-"'"V     'ill      the     a.-ee||dill'_r    \c--el~.  \      n^o     ell!      a      hole    I!)     the 

'•ide  ot'th'  branch,  reaching-  to  the  mid'ile.  a;,d  tin  n  cut  out  thf 
pi'li  :nd  inteni:il  ve--.-U.  Tii.'  di-:  ilia!  ion  \\:i-  lli-ii  L"'inur  <>n 
:if  the  rate  ..f  i  .DC  ,  )r,  ,j,  ,:,,-!,  i;7  -.  .  •>  .nd-.  or  a1  '"'it  '_'  ounce-  '>\ 
•  Iraclnu-  in  'J  1  hour-.  N-\t  inoriiiiiL'  'h'-  di  -t  ill.it  i":;,  -"  tar 
from  I-  inj-  alVicti-.l  I,-,  tb--  :it!.'iujit  to  -toj.  the  -iipjil:.  •>,  -upjio- 
nrj  the  h.id  «  ome  ni  through  ih«-  bnuicli  !i":a  tbe  trei',  \\a- 


DISTRICT    OF    AMHACA.  ].J.{ 

fnerea.-ed  t<>  ;i  drop  every  5  seconds,  or  12  drops  per  minute, 
making  1  pint  fib'  ounces)  in  every  24  hours.  I  then  cut  the 
branch  >o  much  that,  during  the  day.it  broke ;  but  they  still 
went  on  at  the  rate  of  a  drop  every  5  seconds,  while  another 
colonv  on  a  hranch  of  the  same  tree  gavo  a  drop  every  17 
seconds  oidy,  or  at  the  rate  of  ahout  10  ounces  4j  drachms  in  24 
hours.  I  finally  cut.  oil' the  hranch  ;  hut  this  \v:is  too  much  lor 
their  patience,  for  they  immediately  decamped,  as  insects  will 
do  from  either  a  dead  hranch  or  a  dead  animal,  which  Indian 
hunters  soon  know,  when  they  sit  down  on  a  recently  killed 
hear.  The  presence  of  greater  moisture  in  the  air  increased  the 
power  of  tlr'se  distillers:  the  period  of  greatest  activity  was  in 
the  morning,  when  the  air  and  everything  else  was  charged 
with  dew." 

A  splendid  country  was  tempting  them,  which  could  \K 
reached  hy  turning  aside  only  a  little  to  the  west;  and  though 
deeply  interested  in  the  delightful  district  of  M.  Canto,  the 
traveller  contented  himself  to  give  up  again  the  enjoyments  of 
a  home  for  the  hard  path.  The  country  through  which  he 
passed  hefore  coming  to  the  far-famed  "  Rocks  of  Pungo  An- 
doiiijo  "  was  not  new  to  him,  because  it  was  on  the  route  by 
which  he  came  some  months  hi- fore.  Then,  however,  he  had 
been  unahle  to  appreciate  its  beauties;  indeed,  unable  even  to 
notice  the  names  and  locations  of  points  of  interest  as  he  passed 
them.  lie  was  then  so  worn  out  hy  lever  that  he  had  forgotten 
the  davs  of  the  week  and  the  names  of  his  companions.  But 
now  he  could  look  away  to  the  lofty  mountains  with  real  de- 
light, and  the  splendid  valleys  of  the  numerous  little  streams, 
teeming  with  herds  and  waving  their  agricultural  wealth  so 
proudly  in  his  view,  charmed  him.  In  the  midst  of  a  land- 
scape so  beautiful  it  was  a  disappointment  to  find  only  a  paltrv 
village  hiding  itself  as  if  ashamed  in  a  reec.-s  fit'  the  mountains. 
The  town  of  Amhaca  has  the  same  hi>torv  which  makes  nearK 
all  of  the  towns  of  Angola  ^lonmv  :  it  i-  the  story  of  failure — • 
departed  glorv.  There  were  the  ruin-  of  a  church,  and  a  jail  in 
good  repair,  which  tell<  the  whole  storv  of  the  I*ortuu;ie-e 
efforts  in  the  country.  The  ehuivh  >vsteri  was  ton  benevolent; 
the  Jesuit-  loved  the  native-  too  much.  The  church  did  not 
fill  the  pockets  of  the  Portuguese  settlers  ur  allord  a  revenue  to 


141  CIIUIK'HKS    Oil    JAII>. 

the  government.  It  sought  the  |>cople,  more  than  what  they 
lui'l.  The  ehuivh  was  Ixid  jMiliey.  Tin-  government  could 
reeeive  more  from  jail.-.  S»  the  church  was  allowed  to  lxvom« 
a  ruin  ;  the  jail  was  honored.  It  was  a  delu-io'i  of  spiritual 
blindness.  The  jail  will  l>e  torn  down  -ome  time  or  other 
where  churches  are  allowed  to  fall.  People  do  not  reali/e  the 
o>-t  of  jail.-.  Larger  revenms  an-  obtained  bv  strength  of 
authority,  by  measures  oi'  force;  it  i-  ignored  that  the  revenue 
is  consumed  in  creating  the  force,  in  -u-taining  the  authority. 
Kuler-  have  not  fullv  appreciated  the  greater  \\i-dom  of  so 
elevating  the  iMiinle,  at  anv  co^t,  that  everv  man's  conscience 
inav  become  a  con-table  who  .-hall  collect  the  due- of  govern- 
ment and  protect  societv.  It  \va-  pleasing  and  painful  to  find 
in  the  district  of  Ambaea  some  of  the  trace-,  of  the  ^oo<l  but 
mi-taken  men  who  had  taught  the  people.  It  \\a.-  plea.-ing  to 
find  -o  maiiv  of  the  native-  reading.  It  \va-  painful  to  reali/e 
that  the  loii-_r  and  oilier  valuable  lalxirs  of  the  .lesuits  had  left 
no  intelligent  idea- of'  ('hri.-t.  It  \\a-  not  their  policy  to  com- 
mit the  word  of  (  iod  to  their  convert-.  Tile  crucifixes  aild 

picture-  with-tood  too  feeblv  the  Mirrounding  ignoramr  and 
.-iijier-tition.  The  Bible  would  have  been  powerful;  it  would 
have  IM-.-II  the  centre  of'  a  Lrro-,\iiig  light  \\hether  there  \\ere 
prie-t-  or  none.  The  fliilure  or  refu-al  of'  tin-  <  'atholic  (  'hurch 
to  emplov  the  open  Uible  in  their  mi.— ion-  make-  the  ultimate 
failure  of'  them  ab-olutelv  certain.  There  i-  no  di.-|M»sition  to 
denv  that  much  noble  benevolence  and  wonderful  /cal  ha- 
charaeteri/ed  the  lalnir-  of  many  of  the  singularly  devoted 
•-ervatit-  of  thi-  church;  it  i-  onl\  lamented  that  they  do  not 
ad- ".a  a  poliev  whieli  mi^ht  be  more  beneficent  and  more  ell'ec- 
in  il  in  the  e,. nver-ion  ,,f  men.  The  -imple  f'aet  that  the  f'orty 
th'.ii-and  inlcibitant-  of  the  di-trict  of  Ambaea  are  improved  in 
int. •!ii_'eiie(-.  and  rememlx-r  their  teacher-  \\ith  re>jM-et,  would 
ii«.t  --iti-t'v  the  m, -n  \\ho  \\e  tru-t  -i ne.  rely  doired  their -alva- 
ti-.'.i  tinallv  and  their  emniicijiation  now  from  the  bondage  of 
Iie:it!,'-n  Iwlii-f'.  \\'e  \\ill  hojie  that  a  day  may  come  -peedily 
\vln-n  a  wi-i-r  rule  and  triiei-  a^'-neie-  -hall  change  efl'ei-tually  thr 

Kol  |    '-    of      til.-    l.eol.le,    ;ui«|      e|lLr:i"e    tl|el||     |||o|-e    tl'IlK      ill    the    -er\jce 

I  I 

ot  <  Ini-t.  Siir.lv  ii  i-  a  -.id  nior|,,  ry  «>;  the  Ma-fer'- eommi*- 
«;o;i  in  put  hi-  name  on  m.-n  who-e  heart.-  continue  in  m«^\ 


PUN'VO    A  N  IXKMiO. 

degraded  reverence  of  things  inanimate.  Livingstone  was  far 
from  reflecting  severely  on  the  Catholic  Church  «»r  her  servants, 
but  lit;  could  not  fail  to  record  a  remonstrance,  and  he  could  not 
record  with  pleasure  even  the  most  conspicuous  self- sacrifice, 
followed  inevitably  by  such  results.  There  could  only  be  pain- 
ful meditations  tinging  the  pleasing  influence  of  nature's  charm.- 
as  the  missionary  explorer  turned  away  from  this  hingularly 
favored  and  unfortunate  district — favored  in  having  heard, 
unfortunate  in  having  forgotten,  precious,  most  vital  things. 

Crossing  the  Lucalla,  he  bent  his  \vav  towards  the  paradise 
of  the  eountrv.  He  says:  "  In  all  my  inquiries  about  the 
vegetable  products  of  Angola  I  had  been  invariably  directed  to 
Pungo  Andongo."  On  reaching  the  wonderful  place  he  found 
that  the  remarkable  success  of  a  single  man  in  cultivating  his 
large  estate  told  the  whole  story  of  the  reputation  the  district 
had  gained.  This  man's  name  was  Pi  res ;  he  was  corni'iander 
of  the  district.  Coming  to  the  country  as  a  servant  on  a  ;-hip, 
he  had  by  industry  made  himself  the  richest  man  in  all  Angola. 
His  residence  and  the  fort  are  under  the  shadow  of  a  group  ot 
"columnar-shaped  rocks,  each  of  which  is  more  than  three 
hundred  feet  high."  Of  these  mighty  rocks  Dr.  Living-tone 
writes:  "They  are  composed  of  conglomerate,  made  up  of  a 
great  variety  of  rounded  pieces  in  a  matrix  of  dark  red  sand- 
stone. They  rest  on  a  thick  stratum  of  this  last  rock,  with  verv 
few  of  the  pebbles  in  its  substance.  On  this  a  fossil  palm  has 
U'en  found,  and  if  of  the  same  age  as  those  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  continent,  on  which  similar  palms  now  lie,  there,  niav  he 
coal  underneath  this,  as  well  as  under  that  at  Tete.  The 
asserted  existence  of  petroleum  springs  at  I)andc,  and  near 
Cambambe,  would  seem  to  indicate  the  presence  of  this  useful 
mineral,  though  I  am  not  aware  of  any  one  having  actuallv 
seen  a  seam  of  coal  tilted  up  to  the  surface  in  Angola,  as  wo 
have  at  Tete.  The  gigantic  pillars  of  Pnngo  Andongo  have 
been  formed  by  a  current  of  the  sea  corning  from  the  S.  S.  1"..  ; 
for,  seen  from  the  top,  they  appear  arranged  in  that  direction. 
and  must  have  withstood  the  surges  of  the  ocean  at  a  period  ot' 
our  world's  history  when  the  relations  of  land  and  sea  \veiv 
total Iv  different  from  what  they  are  now,  and  IOIILT  before  'the 
morning  stars  sang  together,  and  all  the  sons  of  God  shouted 


14f>  ON    THE    ROAD. 

for  jov  to  see  the  alxxles  prepared  which  man  was  soon  to  fill.* 
The  imbedded  pun-is  in  tin-  conglomerate  are  of  gneiss,  clay 
shale,  mica  and  sandstone  schists,  trap,  ami  j>orphyry,  most  of 
which  an-  large  cn«>ugh  to  give  the  whole  the  ap|>earance  of 
U'iiii:  the  onlv  remaining  vestiges  of  vast  primeval  bank*  of 
shingle." 

Th<-  little  village,  envirom-d  hv  thise  huge,  immovable  sen- 
tinels, is  entered  by  narrow  pathways,  across  which  there  are 
beautiful  little  streams  flowing,  ami  has  the  air  of  quiet  ami 
almost  eon-ci<ni-  -eeuritv  which  is  onlv  natural  in  Mich  a  fast- 
n  ess. 

It  was  .lanuarv  1-t,  IS.")."),  before  tlie  partv  were  again  on  the 
path.  The  Makololo  marched  along  proud  Iv  enough.  All 
along  thev  pa— ed  the  villages  of  the  jn-oplc  who  had  excited 
their  fear-  when  thev  \\crc  approaching  the  coa-t,  and  thev  let 
no  oppiirtunitv  p:i-s  n»\v  which  mi'/ht  be  improved  in  reciting 
their  exploits.  Their  attentions  tu  1  >r.  Livingstone  wen*  more 
d-v»te(l  than  ever,  and  the  happy  ennfulenee  nnd  comparative 
fn -^h lie--  of'  the  entire  partv  enaltlcd  them  t<<  move  on  \\itli 
remarkable  t:\cilitv,  thoii<rh  everv  man  eiirried  hi-  own  iMi^-ts- 

.  . 

-I'IM-.  The  method  emplovc*!  hv  the  natives  of  Africa  i~  -<»me- 
t)iiii'_r  like  that  bv  which  the  Chinese  carrv  -iich  lutivv  burdens 
uith  -o  mii'-h  i-a-r.  The  bundle  or  ba-ket  i-  (a-t«-ned  to  the 
e  id  <>t'  a  p"le,  which  i-  plae«-<l  on  the  -houlder.  Thev  have  vet 
t  >  learn  that  the  dividing  of  the  burden  strictly,  an-ording  to 
l  '«e  fa-hion  of'  the  Celestials,  would  make  their  lalnir  lighter 
siill.  In  the  engraving  of  the  n ><•!<-  of  I'un^o  Andon-jo.  the. 
travelling  party  i-  -e«-n  \\  ii)'liii'_r  almiLT  bv  the  ba-e  nf'  the 
Lri'_rantie  pillar-,  with  I  >r.  Li\-in^-!nnet  mounte<]  mi  hi-  vigorous 
ox.  in  the  iiii'l-f.  The  .Mak«i!"!i>  cnnld  nut  ln^Mirne  e\p«-rt 
ri'l'-r- ;  and  f^iving-Jtitne  him-i'lf,  ind'-ed,  t'oiind  the  nii-thi»d  nf 
convevance,  a-  !unu~li'-d  \>\'  the  particular  animal  wlneh  had 
IM-I--I  r:ii-' d  t-»  id'-  di_Miitv  i>t'  hi-  -t<---d.  attended  with  -<>mc  in- 

i-O'lVelileliei  -,    |||      \vll|i'h      the      freijl|e||f      |llii-t      l|  IlCefell  H  H I  lull-      pfe- 

eipitaf  i"M-  int'i  iiinil  or    -and    '>r    thurn-   <  -r  -t  ream-    figured  con- 

••pleU.  ill-  !  V. 

All  a!"n_'  the  \\;t\-  they-"  \\-<  ye  |ia--in^  j»artie<  of  traders  and 
nati\i--.  \\itli  t!i-ir  li'.iv\  Inad-  ••('  lueyeliandi-e  t'nr  the  market 
it  I. .and. i.  Tln-e  ei.n-i-t.d  ehi.-lly  nf  elephant.**'  tu-k*  and 


LILU'UTFAN    MONSTKKS.  M7 

beeswax.  The  great  number  of  these  companies  afforded  ample 
opportunity  tor  the  "true  ancients"  to  tell  how  they  had  them- 
selves "entered  the  ships  of  the  white  men." 

The  alienee  in  this  region  of  those  monsters  of  the  forest 
whose  attentions  generally  furnish  incident  for  the  traveller's 
story  leaves  us  willing  to  notice  creatures  more  insignificant. 
It  is  a  question,  though,  whether  a  certain  tiny  individual  who 
crossed  J)r.  Livingstone's  path  one  day  on  Tola  Mungongo  may 
be  despised  in  any  company.  This  Liliputian  monster  w;is  none 
other  than  a  m/  cnf.  Livingstone  may  tell  his  own  story. 
"The  first  time,"  says  he,  "that  I  encountered  this  by  no 
means  contemptible  enemy  mv  attention  was  taken  up  in  view- 
ing the  distant  landscape,  and  I  accidentally  stepped  on  one  of 
their  nests.  Not  an  instant  seemed  to  elapse  before  a  simul- 
taneous attack  was  made  on  various  unprotected  parts;  up  the 
tiowsers  from  below  and  on  mv  neck  and  breast  above.  The 
btes  of  these  furies  were  like  sparks  of  fire,  and  there  was  no 
n  treat.  I  jumped  about  for  a  second  or  two,  and  then  in 
desperation  tore'offall  mv  clothing  and  rubbed  and  picked  them 
olFseriatim  as  cjuicklv  as  possible.  It  is  really  astonishing  how 
such  small  bodies  can  contain  so  large  an  amount  of  ill  nature. 
They  not  onlv  bite,  but  twist  themselves  around  after  the  man- 
dibles are  inserted  to  produce  laceration  and  pain  more  than 
\\  mild  be  effected  by  the  wound."  These  savage  little  wanderers 
ai  e  often  seen  moving7  along  in  vast  armies,  and  look  as  they 
cioss  a  path  like  a  brownish-red  band  two  or  three  inches  wide. 
Such  is  their  voracity,  and  such  multitudes  are  there,  that  they 
will,  during  a  single  night,  devour  the  larger  part  of  an  ox. 
They  are  the  plague  of  rats  and  reptiles  of  all  descriptions. 

Descending  the  heights  of  Tola  Mungongo  on  the  loth,  and 
passing  rapidly  across  the  lovely  valley  as  liir  as  Ca.-sange, 
Livingstone  met  again  the  kind  welcome  of  the  genial  and 
generous  Captain  Xeves.  and  on  the  L'Sih  he  met  the  young 
man  Cvpriano,  who  had  .-o  kindlv  come  to  his  assistance  on  the 
banks  of  the  Quango,  when  the  Bashange  disputed  hi.-  right  to 
passage.  ]>nt  the  voting  man  had  become  so  much  a  -lave  of 
drink  that  he  had  hardly  mean.-  to  afford  plea-ant  entertainment. 
Alreadv  the  trader.-  were  carrying  this  baneful  article  to  the 
distant  chiefs.  It  is  sad  indeed  that  with  the  van  of  civilization 


T1IK 


AGAIN. 


thi.t  curse  of  tin-  world  must  ever  find  its  way,  sowing  in  even* 
new-fuumi  laiul  the  sect  Is  of  a  seomd  tlegradution,  dcejKT,  if 
|x»>.-ihlr,  ami  more  ho|>elesd  than  that  of  utior  ignorance  and 
MijH-ixitiou.  While  the  anxious  lalmn  r  thought  on  this  evil 
ami  all  the  ill>  of  Africa,  and  cu-t  hi^  thought.-*  hack  ov--r  the 
strange  condition  of  Angola  under  I'ortugucsc  rule,  he  stotxl 
again  l>v  the  hanks  of  the  (^uan^o,  arranging  to  enter  the  terri- 
t-irv  of  the  l)a>li:uigc,  who  had  learned  uiily  coveU)tisness  and 
treacher  from  their  white 


ST'I.I.    .   |;n  KKT. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

LONDA    OK    LINDA. 

Lessons  of  Experience— Sansawe'.s  Demands  -His  Refusal — A  Blow  on  the  Beard 

—  Revenue — Changing  the  Time     Dandies  ami   Belles — Li/ards  and  Snakes  - 
Seven    Thousand    Fowls  tor   Ten    Dollars — Many   Village    Mania — The   Sea- 
sons—Sister of   Mathunoo     An    Ox    or  a    Man — Strategy — Trial    l'<>r    Murder 
— Street  Fight — Dish  of  White  Ants— Lovely  Bed  of  Flowers— (iod  in  Nature 

—  A    Noble   Chief — Shinte's    Again   -The    Leelm — Lite   Once    Mon — Buffalo 
Hunt — Libonta  Welcome — Thanksgiving  Service — A    Matrimonial  Drawt.ai-k 
— Capsized  in  the  Leeaiubye— Sekeletu  in  Full  Dress— The  True  Ancients  in 
White — Promising  Opening — Preparation  for  the  .Journey — Going  Eastward — 
Parting  Words  of  Manure — The  Tribute  of  Faithfulness. 

EXPERIENCE  is  a  famous  teacher;  its  tuition  has  much  to  do 
with  a  man's  comfort  anywhere,  particularly  in  Africa.  Dr. 
Livingstone  had  been  the  victim  of  the  border  chiefs  because 
he  was  not  absolutely  certain  that  he  could  be  anything  else  ; 
but  he  was  of  a  different  mind  now,  because  he  had  learned  that 
a  decided  independence  was  not  only  the  safest  course,  but  the 
kindest,  as  it  would  check  in  the  outset  the  aggressions  which 
no  amount  of  patience  could  satisfy.  Therefore,  when  la- 
pitched  his  tent  among  the  Bashange — this  time  by  Sansawe's 
town — he  was  in  no  mood  to  put  up  with  the  covetous  imposi- 
tions of  that  presumptuous  gentleman.  The  party  was  hardly 
settled,  however,  before  he  made  his  appearance,  in  true  Balonda 
fashion,  mounted  on  his  carrier'-  shoulders,  and  indulging  in 
any  quantity  of  palaver  ;  winding  up,  finally,  with  the  expected 
information,  that  he  would  return  in  the  evening  to  receive  his 
dues,  lie  manifested  a  little  surprise  when  his  -upposed  victim 
replied,  with  rather  uncommon  boldness  that  he  need  not  come 
unless  lie  brought  with  him  a  present  of  a  fowl  and  -ome  e^'s. 
as  a  chief  should.  In  the  evening  he  came,  in  his  wonted 
dignity,  and  after  visiting  the  camps  of'  some  traders,  who  paid 
quite  extravagantly  tor  hi-  favor,  made  his  respect-  to  Dr. 
Livinstone  and  presented  "  two  cocks."  But  when  he  re- 


'>  A    BLOW    O.Y    THK    HK.UID. 

eeived  t»nly  a  few  trifling  articles,  ami  a  >eriou<  lecture  in  the 
bargain,  lie  was  in  a  very  utifrieiully  humor.  The  quiet  indif- 
ference of  Livingstone  was  a  hint,  however,  which  the  reputa- 
tion of  thr  Mak»ilolo — a  miml»er  of  whom  he  saw  aliout  hini, 

in    |>o— -i-Tv-ioii    of   fir-t-rate    mu-ket cinpha-i/ed    quite    to    his 

satisfaction,  and  then-  was  no  mvat«  r  trouble  than  his  harmless 
frown.  I5ut  a  little  farther  on,  after  tin-  party  had  ascended 
from  tin-  vallfv  and  were  on  thr  table  land  once  rnorr,  thrv  met 
a  more  roolute  indivi<lual  in  thr  per-on  of  the  head  man  of  a 
littlr  village,  where  they  had  been  drtainrd  several  weeks  bv 
the  .-ickiic-s  of  Living-tone,  wh.i  had  already  fallen  a  prev  to 
the  wa-tin^  fevers  which  had  made  In-  life  almost  a  burden  in 
this  country  a  vear  In-fore  ;  and  he-idcs  the  fevers  he  \\ as  now 
atllicted  with  rlielltnatism.  It  w:i>  hardly  possible  that  he 
>!n»uld  l>e  anvthin^  <  !-e  than  ill.  drenched  b\-  dav  in  the  iners- 
s;int  niins,  and  s*ln%pin«;  at  mulit  »ii  such  beds  as  thev  wei'e  alilr 
:••  rake  nj)  of  the  >at united  earth  and  dripping  trniss.  He  had 
Ix-eii  foreiil  to  lie  bv  manv  ila\'-,  and  was  onlv  partiallv  recov- 
ered, when  the  incident  referred  to  occurred.  The  said  "head 
nan"  had  conic  to  his  camp  and  u  a-  barir.iining  and  (juarrellini; 
\\ith  -oine  of  hi-  men,  when  on--  of'  them,  not  overlv  burdened 
\\ith  the  gentler  (jnalitie-,  adniini-tered  a  xtrihimf  rebuke  li>r 

>«  Ille  offensive  -peech.  Nothing  colllil  atone  lor  the  "  blow  on 
tie  Iwanl."  1  lie  mope  the  party  yielded  the  more  he  de- 
irfandrd,  until  I^ivin^tojie  determined  to  do  no  more  and 
d  -parted.  Thev  had  not  -..'one  \ ,  |-\-  far.  and  were  iia^-iii"1 

I  -  .  i  f^ 

through  a  loi-e-t,  when  a  body  of  mm  came  ru>hintr  after  them 
a:id  initialed  an  alfrav  l>v  kinn-k  i:r_r  do\\  n  the  burdens  (i('  the 
men  in  the  ri-ar.  In  an  in-tant  ih--  Makoli»io  were  mi  their 
in*  tile  and  several  shots  were  fire* I,  and  the  two  partie-  were 
taking  their  plaos  on  the  -ide-  »\  \\\<-  |i.ith  \\t\-  more  -eri.ins 
'.\ork.  llardlv  able  to  walk,  Living-tone  -'a  .veered  ouiekL' 
bi'-!v  a'i'1  ene.  iimtei-ed  (lie  chie)'.  Tli:it  i  ni  I  i  \  : ,  1 1  ia  1  u  a-  hardlv 
pn-pared  to  wi-Iiiitne  the  appearane.'  .,|'  "a  r, 
I-arr-'!-  ^'apiir_'  into  hi-  -toniaeh."  and  e\|iilii(,.,l 
Vej-ion  "|  fii-lin-jr  in-tantlv,  and,  trembling  in 
"'it,  "<>!,.  I  have  on!\  ci.mc  to  -|>.-ak  \\itli 
hardlv  MII-I-— arv  fi-i'  the  tra\-cl!er  tc,  in-i-t  nnii-li  on  the  (Vi-lit- 
en.  d  niob'i  immediate  departure,  ami  our  partv  pa--«  d  on  in 

Klf«-tV. 


IMNJ>IKS    AND    HKLLK.S. 

The  interminable  forests  and  flooded  streams,  and  the  stupid 
ignorance  of  the  people  who  were  found  living  in  the  gloomy 
n-eesses  of  the  country,  all  contributed  to  the  difficulty  of 
their  progress,  and  they  had  not  yet  come  to  the  habitat  of  any 
interesting  specimens  of  animal  life.  After  crossing  the  L»;i- 
jima,  the  party  made  u  little  "detour  southward,"  in  order  to 
get  off  of  the  path  of  traders.  Hardly  anything  is  more  dis- 
gusting and  provoking  than  the  air  of  importance  of  slightly 
informed  people,  and  in  this  the  petty  African  chiefs  who  have 
had  some  little  intercourse  with  these  traders  are  perfect  masters. 
The  innocent  vanities  of  the  generous  inhabitants  of  the  more 
secluded  sections  were  rather  entertaining  than  otherwise.  It 
may  be  a  pleasing  bit  of  information  to  the  large  class  of  our 
countrymen  of  the  Beau  Hickman  stamp,  that  even  benighted 
Africa  is  well  supplied  with  dandies  of  as  various  whims  as 
those  who  dwell  in  the  clearer  light  of  American  civilization. 
There  is,  for  instance,  in  the  d.-ep  forests  of  Africa,  the  musical 
dandy,  who,  with  the  daintiest  air,  thumbs  his  iron-keyed  i •»• 
strument  in  matchless  hum-drum  the  night  long.  Then  thes- 
is the  martial  dandy,  who,  like  his  American  counterpart,  de- 
lights in  the  display  of  soldierly  insignia  in  safe  distance  from 
scenes  of  strife.  And  there  is  the  effeminate  dandy,  who  is 
always  seen  dandling  his  canary  in  a  cage.  And  the  dandy 
absolute,  "par  excellence"  in  the  list;  an  aimless  fop,  who  de- 
lights in  the  display  of  himself,  with  "lucubrated  hair  and 
ornaments  innumerable/'  The  ladies,  too,  who  rejoice  in  their 
snowy  poodles,  may  be  pleased  to  know  that  their  sable  sisters, 
in  the  sequestered  glens  beneath  an  equatorial  sun,  arrange  their 
strands  of  beads  about  their  necks  with  greatest  skill,  and, 
esteeming  themselves  in  full  dress,  are  seen  to  simper  artfully 
while  they  fondle  their  charming  canine  "  pets."  Civilization 
cannot  claim  a  monopoly  of  the  ornaments  of  society.  For 
every  young  man  standing  on  a  corner  in  self-conscious  attitud- 
inizing, there  is  a  fellow,  quite  as  self-conscims  and  fixed  up  in 
his  way,  standing  about  the  paths  and  huts  of  Africa.  And  tor 
every  woman  who  lavishes  caresses  and  baby  talk  on  kittens 
and  puppies,  there  is  in  Africa  a  maiden  or  childless  matron 
who  dandles  creatures  like  thorn  quite  as  fondly,  with  equal 
prodigality  of  gibheri-h  quite  a-  sentimental.  It  is  so,  on  the 
word  of  a  serious  missionary,  just  as  we  write  it- 


jr^  WOKT1I    OF   TKX    DOLLARS. 

The  nearest  approach  to  Ix-asts  of  prey  the  party  found,  before 
(••  -aching  the  river  Moamba,  which  thev  cro-M-d  on  the  7th  of 
Mav  i  hit.  1»  •'>*'  S.,  long.  L'O  13'  :\\"  K.I,  wen- the  li/.ards, 
::iice  and  scr|>ent.-,  whose  jM-ace  thev  oe<-i.-ionallv  di.-tnrlx-d  as 
t!ie\-  .-tmggled  through  the  gnis-  and  vine-  which  lav  along  the 
p-ute,  and  seemed  to  conspire  with  the  /ig/ag  path-  to  make  the 
traveller's  jirogn-.-  as  -low  and  wearying  a-  po— ihle. 

There  wa.-  one  consolation,  though,  in  the  delays  and  toilsome 
pp>'_'re—  :  food  wa.-  cheajx-r  and  cheaper  th"  farther  they  left  the 
Uirder-  ot'  the  white  settlers.  For  the  value  of'  a  pennv  a  dav 
!'>ur  IWT-OII-  could  live  on  the  fat  ot'  the  land.  Living-tone 
mention-  a  purchase  of  tobaceo  which  ( 'aptain  Neves  made — 
three  hundred  and  eighty  pound-  for  two  pound-  sterling,  in 
Angola.  The  same  toUicco,  in  central  Londa,  would  -nflicc  t<.» 
feed  -even  thoii-and  JKT-OH-  one  dav,  uivnii;  each  per-on  a  /«»•/ 
and  fifi"  ji', anils  ••;'  in-ul.  Seven  thoii-and  fowl-  and  thirtv-five 
thousand  pounds,  of  meal  for  altotit  ten  dollar-'  worth  ot'  tobacco! 

One  of  the  ino-t  common  annovances  they  sufl'ered  in  this 
journey  wa-  the  di-jxi-it ion  of  the  |>eople  in  everv  trifling  village 
to  detain  them.  Thi-  \\a-  a  inodc-t  wav  of  impo-in<j  a  tax,  a-, 
of  eniir-e,  the  delav  would  involve  a  certain  amount  of  expendi- 
ture. Hut  even  where  the  de-ire  wa-  in  pure  hospitality  it  was 
•  (iiite  a-  po-itive  and  [KTsevering,  and  was  -jenerallv  pre— ed 
etVect nallv,  l»ei"iu-e  the  furnishing  of  guide-  wa-  conditioned  en 
-ul>mi--i"ii.  Once  Living-tone  Ix-cainc  thoroughly  provoke*!, 
and  attempted  to  advance  without  the  (jnide.  It  mi^ht  have 
lieen  well  enough  in  -oinc  se< -I }<>]}-,  1  >u t  the  particular  locality  in 
which  he  cliaiic.il  to  be  re-,  to  red  hi-  patience  thoroughly,  for 
after  -triking  out  in  vari"ii-  directions,  and  everv  time  coming 
to  a  dead  halt  in  impa—  able  thicket-,  he  i_rave  it  up. 

'I  here  wa-  no  counting  the  village^.  The  African  ha-  a  re- 
rnarkalih1  e:r_ft  rne--  fi.r  manv  villagi  -  :  there  are  no  lar^c  t"\vn<. 
Kvervb««lv  -ecni-  to  have  only  one  ambition,  and  that  i-  t"  liavr» 
a  village.  If  nnlv  a  man  mav  have  a  few  hut-  he  i-  a  chief,  in 
his  own  eye-  at  N-a-t.  There  \\  a-  one  thinur  \\liieli  made  the 
pp-ent  t"iir  m"r"  unpleasant  than  tho-e  in  \\lii.h  he  \\a-  j»re- 
red'-d  bv  me--eiej'er-  of  the  chief-,  \\ho  had  formerly  been  -cut 
to  ji"t  ifv  t  !.•  \-iliaj-e-  of  the  approach  of  "  the  \\  hite  man."  'The 
•>L'!i'  "t  a  uhite  man  al'.vav-  mtii-e-  a  tremor  into  thejr  dark 


FEAR   OF    "WHITE    MAN.  ]-,.-, 

bosoms,  and  in  every  ease  of  the  kind  they  apjM-ared  immensely 
relieved  when  he  had  fairly  passed  without  having  sprung  upon 
them.  In  the  villages  the  dogs  run  away  with  their  tails  be- 
tween their  legs,  as  if  they  had  seen  a  lion.  The  women  p«-cr 
from  behind  the  walls  till  he  comes  near  them,  and  then  hastily 
dash  into  the.  house.  When  a  little  child,  unconscious  of 
danger,  meets  you  in  the  street,  he  sets  up  a  scream  at  the  appari- 
tion, and  eonvevs  the  impression  that  he  is  not  far  from  going 
into  fits.  Such  things  are  not  calculated  to  make  a  man  feel 
more  at  home  there  than  anywhere  else  ;  but  it  is  hardly  won- 
derful that  it  is  so.  A  white  man  must  be  a  singular  apparition 
indeed  to  those  poor  people,  and  the  more  terrible  because  all 
that  they  have  heard  of  white  people  has  been  of  a  sort  to  excite 
their  fears.  It  has  been  the  constant  study  of  the  Marnbari  to 
prevent,  as  far  as  possible,  the  inhabitants  of  this  secluded 
region  ever  thinking  of  going  themselves  to  the  white  people. 
"We  remember  that  the  Makololo  were  constantly  receiving 
warnings  in  which  the  white  people  on  the  coast  figured  as  very 
monsters. 

After  passing  lat.  12°,  they  began  to  enter  the  countrv  of 
animals,  but  they  were  very  shy,  as  is  generally  the  case  in 
Londa.  It  was  now  about  the  middle  of  winter.  Of  this 
season  Dr.  Livingstone  says:  "The  countrv  at  this  time  is  cov- 
ered with  yellowish  grass  quite  dry.  Some  of  the  bushes  and 
trees  are  green  ;  others  are  shedding  their  leaves,  the  young 
buds  pushing  off  the  old  foliage.  Trees,  which  in  the  south 
.«tand  bare  during  the  winter  months,  have  here1  but  a  short 
period  of  leaflessness.  Occasionally,  however,  a  cold  north  wind 
comes  up  even  as  far  as  Cabango,  and  spreads  a  wintry  aspect 
on  all  the  exposed  vegetation.  The  tender  shoots  of  the  ever- 
green trees  on  the  south  side  become  as  if  scorched  :  the  leaves 
of  manioc,  pumpkins,  and  other  tender  plants  are  killed  ;  while 
the  same  kinds,  in  spots  sheltered  by  forests,  continue  green 
through  the  whole  year.  All  the  interior  of  South  Africa  has 
a  distinct  winter  of  cold,  varying  in  intensity  with  the  latitudes, 
In  the  central  parts  of  the  Tape  Colony  the  cold  in  the  winter 
is  often  severe,  and  the  ground  5*  covered  with  snow.  At 
Knruman  snow  seldom  falls,  but  the  frost  is  keen.  There  is 
frost  even  as  far  as  the  C'hobe,  and  a  partial  winter  in  the 


l">»i  SISTKi:    OF    MAT!  A  MOO. 

Iiarot.-e  valley,  but  l*-vond  tin*  Oran^r  river  we  never  have 
cold  and  damp  etHuhiued.  Ind«v  1.  a  .-ho\\vr  of  niin  >eld«>m  or 
iit-viT  fall.-  during  winter,  and  ln'in-"  tin-  ln-nlthiin  —  of  tin-  li»vh- 
ir.uia  climate.  1'Yom  ilr-  RUM;-.,-  valh-v  northward  it  is  ques- 
tionable it'  it  e\vr  lr« -e/c- ;  but.  during  the  piv\ 'ah-n«v  of  the 
-••nth  wind,  tip'  thermometer  .-ink-  a-  l"\v  a-  I'J  ,  and  eonvevs 
tin-  iiii|)re.s.-ion  »f  hitter  enld.'  "  Hut."  .-av-  he,  "  nothing  can 
evot-d  the  l»eautv  <>f  the  rhauj;  •  fr«m  tin-  \\iutrv  ajijiearancv  t<» 
that  of  -priiiir  at  K"l,»!»cn^.  I'n-vii.n-  i«  the  <-<>intnenceinent 
«>t  the  rain-,  an  < -a-trrlv  wind  l»lo\v.-  -tron^K  liv  dav  hut  die-j  a\vav 
at  in_rht.  I  he  el-Hid- <-'ille,'t  in  nr -r>  a-i:i_:  ina— «•-,  ami  relievo 
i:i  -Mine  nii-a-iire  the  hri^ht  ^lan-  <-f  the  -oinherii  -nn.  Tie 
v.'ind  drie>  iij'  i-vi-rvtliinjj,  and  when  :i!  it-  ^re:i!e-t  -tr.'H^th  f< 
hot  and  rai-e-  cl.iiid-  of  dii-t.  'J  h«-  genera!  teni|iera'tire  durir  g 
the  dav  ri-<^  a!io\'<-  !'')  :  tic  11  >h"\\er-  1-  _in  to  t':t!l  ;  and  if  the 
;_r  round  is  I  ml  mirr  \v«-ll  -o;ik»-d  \\  jth  a  ;_ro  .  i  d.i\  '-  rain,  the  ehairrc 
prodii'-ed  i-  marvellous.  I  n  a  dav  or  t  wo  a  tin^'1  of  ^iven  i-  a.»- 
jiar-  nt  all  "Ver  the  land-'"i]ie.  and  in  live  . .j-  -i\  dav-  the  fiv-h 
h-ave-  -jir'iutin j  furt h  and  th--  vmin^  Lrra—  shooting  up  ^iv<-  au 
apjH-araurt-  of  -jiriii'^  which  it  I'e-juire-  week-  of  a  enliler  cli- 

111  lie   Jo   |iIMihlee." 

<  )ii"  of  the  jih-a-ant<-t  «-|ii-ode-  "!'  thi-  journey,  -o  full  <,f 
v«-\atio!i-  iiiij»ii-it ions  and  -hrewil  atteiitmn-.  \\a-  the  real  kind- 
ii'--  of  a  female  rhief, -i-ter  i»f  the  late  Matiainoo,  who-e  villain 
\va-  next  • //  rn<i>,  fn>m  the  .me  MI  \\h:'-h  1  )r.  Living-tone's 
trulv  S-i.rti-h  etVort  at  independence  \-.a-  -o  lla:  a  failure.  She 
wa-  -o  ladvlike  and  jjniecful  in  her  att'-nM'in-  and  -o  lilx-ral, 
that  Li\-iir_'-t"!ie  felt  the  ae.  jnaintaii'-e  alino-t  a  eninpeu-at  ion 
fir  the  firmer  ineivilities.  U>  tl  euiirte-y  i-  ii"t  cunfined  to 
e.i'ir'-  and  eitv  inan-ion-.  nor  the  peculiar  charm  of  eivili/atioi). 
Tii-  •!•••  i-  a  eivilitv  of  the  -"til  u  hi-  1 1  i-  more  del  !• -ate  and  helpful 
than  the  firmalities  i,f  nin-t  i!ah<irate  att«nti-in-.  and  it  i-  a 


l,e_'.-m-  the    'j!o.  .mi---!   a-    th--  1  iri  _'!ite-t   pla--,-.. 

I'M?  \\hile  tin-  !i»iM-t  fniirte-ii-.  -if  N  \  a  ka-l"iija  \\ep-  -ii'_r"r««- 
»ive  nf  the  -jreat- r  e.,inf.ft  arid  i-a-ier  jipi^ri-—  \\hieh  auaited 
t  !ie-n  iu  the  e.  .11  n  fry  "t'  •  .!d  t'l  iend-,  t"  \\  hieh  t  In  v  were  draw  ing 
n  ar.  th--v  \v--r--  <\-  -tin--!  (<i  IM  •  t  at  h-a-I  one  n|h<  r  ~- -rinii-  pro- 
\'wati"ii.  At  the  t'-wn  nf  a  chief  named  Ka'.vawa  thev  were 


DEMAND    OF    "A    MAN.  \" 

wict  by  a  very  unceremonious  demand  for  "an  ox  or  a  man." 
This  was  a  notoriously  uncivil  man  to  all  traveller-  ;  In-  had 
heard  of  the  Chetoques  having  forced  the  party  to  give  them 
an  ox  as  they  went  toward  the  coast  the  previous  vear,  tuxl, 
cneouraged  hy  their  success,  presumed  to  attempt  a  similar  levy, 
unconscious  of  the  change  which  had  come  over  the  spirit  of 
the  white  man  in  such  matters.  The  history  of  this  affair,  a* 
given  hy  I)r.  Livingstone  himself,  is  so  graphic  and  so  illustra- 
tive of"  African  life  that  we  prefer  to  allow  him  to  put  it  in  his 
own  wav.  "  To  this  provoking  demand,"  savs  he,  "  I  replied 
that  the  goods  were  my  property  and  not  his;  t'lat  I  would 
never  have  it  said  that  a  white  man  had  paid  tribute  to  a 
black,  and  that  I  should  cross  the  Kasai  in  spite  of  him.  lie 
ordered  his  people  to  arm  themselves,  and  when  some  of  my 
men  saw  them  rushing  for  their  hows,  arrows  and  .-pears,  thev 
became  somewhat  panic-stricken.  I  ordered  them  to  move 
away,  and  not  to  fire  unless  Kawawa's  people  struck  the  first 
blow.  I  took  the,  lead,  and  expected  them  all  to  follow,  as 
they  usually  had  done,  but  mauv  of  mv  men  remained  behind. 
When  I  knew  this,  I  jumped  off  the  ox  and  made  a  rush  to 
them  with  the  revolver  in  my  hand.  Kawawa  ran  a  wav  among 
his  people,  and  they  turned  their  backs  too.  J  shouted  to  my 
men  to  take  up  their  luggage  and  march  ;  some  did  so  with 
alacrity,  feeling  that  they  had  disobeyed  orders  l»v  remaining; 
but  one  of  them  refused,  and  was  preparing  to  fire  at  Kawawa, 
until  J  gave  him  a  punch  on  the  head  with  the  pistol,  and  made 
him  o-o  too."  I  felt  here,  as  elsewhere,  that  subordination  must 
be  maintained  at  all  risks.  AVe  all  moved  into  the  forest,  the 
people  of  Kawawa  standing  about  a  hundred  yard.-  off.  ga/ing, 
but  not  firing  a  shot  or  an  arrow.  Hut  he  wa-  not  to  be  balked 
of  his  supposed  riu'hts  by  the  unceremonious  way  in  which  they 
If 'ft  him  ;  for,  when  they  had  readied  the  ford  of'  the  Ka;ai, 
about  ten  miles  distant,  they  found  that  he  had  sent  lour  of 
his  men  with  orders  to  the  ferrvmen  to  ret 'use  passage.  1  her 
were  informed  that  thev  mn-t  deliver  up  all  the  article-  men- 
tioned, and  one  of'  the  men  besides.  '1  his  demand  for  one  of 
the  number  always  nettled  everv  heart.  The  canoes  were  taken 
away  before  their  eves,  and  they  were  supposed  to  be  quite  help- 
less without  them,  at  a  river  a  good  hundred  yards  broad  and 
10 


If.S  TKIAL    FOR    MfKPKII. 

very  di-ep.  Pit-nne  stood  on  the  l>ank,  ira/ini;  with  apparent 
inditl- Tence  mi  the  stream,  ami  made  an  accurate  observation 
of  \vlu -re  the  canoes  were  hidden  amon^  tlie  ni-d-.  The  ferry- 
men cu-nallv  a-ked  one  of  my  ISatoka  it'  they  had  livers  in  IMH 
eountrv,  and  he  answered  with  truth,  '  N«i,  \ve  have  none.' 
Kawawa'-  people  then  tell  Mire  they  could  not  cross.  Tiny 
thought  nf  swimming  when  thev  were  -j;otie  ;  l»ut  alter  it  was 
dark,  liv  the  nna-ked  loan  of  one  of  the  hidden  canoes,  they 
-..on  were -mi'.:  in  bivouac  on  the  southern  hank  »i'  the  Ka-ai. 
Thev  left  -otnc  beads  as  pavtnent  for  -ome  meal  which  had  IHTII 
pn--eiited  I iv  the  ftT rvti leu  ;  and,  the  canoe  having  IMHMI  left  on 
their  own  -ide  of  the  river,  Pit.-anc  and  hi-  c<>in])anions  laughed 
nproarioti-lv  at  the  di.-.rn-t  our  enemie-  would  feel,  am]  their 
]»erple\itv  a<  to  who  had  l»eeii  our  paddler  aei-o-<.  'I  hev  were 
(jnite  >nre  that  Kawawa  would  imagine  that  thev  had  IMH-II 
ferried  over  liv  hi-  own  people,  and  would  !«•  divining  to  find 
out  who  had  done  the  deed.  When  ivadv  to  depart  in  the 
morning.  Kawawa'-  people  appeared  on  the  oppo-jte  heights, 

•Uld     collld     -eai'eclv    Keiieve     their    eves   wllCll     theV   -a\V    Wi'   \\ere 

prej>are<l  to  -tart  awav  to  tin-  -onth.  At  la-t  one  of  t  hem  calleil 
out,  'Ah!  \e  are  had  ;'  to  which  I'itsuie  and  hi-  companions 
retorted,  '  Ah  !  ye  are  ^ood.  and  we  thank  you  for  the  loan  of 
voiir  caiio.-.'  ' 

In    the  town    of'  thi-    ehit-t*  Living-tone  witne--ed  a  specimen 
of  pi-tie.-,   \\hieh    illn-trates  i\w   feature   of  the  mi-erv  of  the 

pi-ople    who-.'    whole   .l.-tillie-    depe||i]    oil    tile    will    of    pettV    chiefs 

a-  di-tiir_rm-hed  f>r  h.-arl  l---ni  --  a-  lor  i'_rnoranci-.»  The  chief 
wa-  iud_"',  jury,  and  attorney,  all  in  him-df.  The  arraiirned 
wa-  a  woman  who  \va-  aeeu-.-d  of  ha\'in_r  caii-ed  the  death  of 
anoth'-r  uoman.  '1  h«-  aceu-'  r  wa-  I'-Hiii;/  ln-r  -torv.  when  th^ 
"•••nirt,"  \\  !io  had  paid  no  att.-nt  ;..n  to  th'-  -tatement.  except 
-imply  to  not!.-,,  d,,.  nature  of  the  charge,  -uddenlv  lmr-t  I'irth, 
"  ^  on  have  killed  one  of  mv  i-liildr.-n,  \our-  an-  mine,  l>rin^ 
th'-m  all  to  me,"  and  the  po, ,r  woman  had  to  oiiev  and  -ee  nil 
"t  hi-r  children  pa--  into  -lavi-rv.  \\hile  thi--e  trilie-  mani- 
!e-:e.|  a  »oine\\hat  iH-lli'jcrent  -pint  to  our  partv.  thev  are  tren- 
••rallv  'juite  di-iiielin.-d  '»  -ettle  their  per-onal  di-jnit«--  liv  finv 
•  >t  arm-.  lint  now  and  then  individuals  atnon-j  the  I'.alondn 
:ir>-  known  t"  clinch.  (  )\\  one  i»cca.-|on.  an  old  woman  standing 


A     FUST    FICIIT.  l.Vj 

bv  I^r.  Ijivingstonc's  camp  continued  to  belabor  :i  good-looking 
voting  man  for  hours  with  her  tongue.  Irritated  at  last,  he 
uttered  sonic  words  of  impatience,  when  another  man  sprang 
at  him,  exclaiming,  "  How  dare  you  curso  my  '  .Mama'.''  Th^y 
caught  cadi  other,  and  a  sort  of  pushing,  dragging,  wrestling 
match  ensued.  The  old  woman  who  had  been  the  cnti.-e  of  the 
affray  wished  us  to  interfere,  and  the  combatants  themselves 
hoped  as  much  ;  but  we,  preferring  to  remain  neutral,  allowed 
them  to  fight  it  out.  I  tended  by  one  falling  under  the  other, 
both,  from  their  scuffling,  being  in  a  state  of  nudity.  They 
picked  up  their  clothing  and  ran  off  in  different  directions,  each 
threatening  to  bring  his  gun  and  settle  the  dispute  in  mortal 
combat.  Only  one,  however,  returned, and  the  eld  woman  con- 
tinued her  scolding  till  my  men,  fairlv  tired  of  her  tongue,  or- 
dered IMT  to  be  gone.  This  trifling  incident  was  one  of  interest 
to  me,  for,  during  the  whole  period  of  my  residence  in  the  J>ee- 
huana  country,  1  never  saw  unarmed  men  strike  each  other. 
Their  disputes  are  usually  conducted  with  great  volubility  and 
noisy  swearing,  but  thev  generally  terminate  bv  both  parties 
bursting  into  a  laugh. 

Among  the  many  delicacies  with  which  this  wonderful  land 
tempts  the  epicure  is  a  singular  little  "  white  ant,"  which  many 
of  the  natives  consider  good  enough  ibr  anybody.  Thev  are 
unseen,  generally,  and  only  when  decided  to  colonize  do  they 
rush  out  of  holes,  in  streams,  and  enter  on  a  tour  of  inspec- 
tion ;  when  thev  have  discovered  a  desirable  location,  thev 
alight  and  with  singular  facility  "  bend  up  their  tails,  unhook 
their  wings"  (which  may  be  removed  from  the  body  without 
any  inconvenience  if  turned  forward),  and  begin  with  greater 
diligence  the  erection  of  their  homes.  When  those  colonies 
are  ready  to  start  lor  a  new  district,  they  are  nothing  daunted 
even  by  lire,  but  pass  through  it  with  a  heroism  worthy  of 
more  elevated  beings.  Thev  arc  caught  bv  the  natives  (who 
are  quite  skilful  in  brushing  them  into  vessels)  and  roasted,  in 
which  state  they  are  considered  better  than  the  choicest  things 
the  "  white  man  "  can  produce. 

South  of  the  Kasai  they  traversed  extensive  plains  covered 
with  beautiful  flowers  and  birds.  The  flowers  \\vre  of  tinic-t 
dimensions  and  most  exquisite  delicacy,  and  had  the  appraran.'t.' 


loO  G<>n    IN    NATl'KK. 

in  many  phi".--  of  tin-  riche-t  carpet.  A  wonderful  tiling  about 
thi-  r-ph-ndid  fabric  of  nature'-  \vt-avin^  '.\a-  that  it  displayed 
the  phfMiommon  of  -ueo--ivf  Kami-,  perhap-  a  hundred  vanls 
in  width.  th'--e  band-  all  of  ilillerent  hue-.  In  one  the  golden 
hue  prvvaih-d,  ainl  the  Mower-  vnri-  d  in  -hade  from  "  palest 
lemon  to  richc-t  orange."  Anoth- •[•  hand  wa-Mite;  in  .-hade 
from  thf  lijhtot  tint-  to  tin-  deep,-t  color.  (  >MC  flower  mi 
tln-c  plain*  attracted  particular  attention.  I'M-MILT  «-lcvatc»l  hut 
uli^htly  liv  it-  tiny  -talk,  tlii-  little  i_r'-ni  -ei'in<  to  !«•  >et  in  the 
^roiiii'l  ;  "  it-  leav-  are  cnver,-«l  with  n-.Mi-li  hair-,"  out  of  the 
tiji-  ot  which  f\i).li-  a  llui'l,  cl.-ar  an>l  ^lutiu<ni<,  which  '^li-tcns 
in  the  -iinli'jht  like  drop-  (>t'  de\\  <>r  rieln-r  p«  arl-.  Trulv  it  i- 
wnuiii'l'tll]  how  I'ichlv  and  how  -kilt'n'iv  the  -jr.-at  Architect  and 
Jiuildi't'iii  onr  tei-|-'--!rial  home  ha-  \\  roii_rht  of  all  thiii'j- a  para- 
/li-e  t->r  n~,  \\ho-e  wealth  and  Ix-autv  are  confined  to  no  >in^!c 
/one,  and  are  inexhail-tihle,  though  \\v  <-\pl.,rc  the  -ea  or  land 
or  ri-e  amid  the  -tar-  »r  d'-l\c  in  deep.--t  earth.  And  it  i- 
wondcrful  how  in  it  all  he  hath  wrought  hi-  uwn  iina_re,  and 
hv  all  thin_'-  teaeheth  of  him-elf.  Thci-,-  ai'.'  -teadlii-t  inoiin- 
tain-.  which  tell  oj'  -tretr_'th  ;  and  tlo\\'-r-.  nl' tt-nderiios.  There 
are  oei-an-  \vho-e  iniv-.-ii".  in_r  cl>i>  and  HOW  inunntir  of  ctcrnitv. 
The  -tar-,  -hilling  cvcrv where,  - 1 1 _'•_'.  -t  hi-  oinniprc-fiicc.  Tin- 
-11:1,  nil;:i_r  all  tin-  realm-,  proclaim-  hi-  autlmritv.  And 
tin-re  are  encircling  In-aven-  whieh  hint  »\'  hi-  t'licirclinj;  «-ar-', 
while  all  thiii'_r-  -peak  of  <^<  .odiie— .  A  lid.  thank-  he  to  (  iod. 
nature  t.-ll-  all  tin-  -Joj-v,  in  Atr;ea  a-  in  Am-  rica.  It  i-  onlv 
left  fl  ,r  the  -p.'.-ial  de.-d  of  -ji-acr  t"  -pre;  id  it  -  power  alu'oad,  cor- 
p-'-tin_r  tin-  -p<-.-ial  !>!ind:i---  of  man  incurred  hv-juilt;  then 
(l"d'-  liken.---  -hall  \»-  -<••  n  and  hi-  ul'TV  -land  revealed  in  all 
hi-  work-. 

Living-tone  Ix-came  riiiiyinced  at  thi-  time  that  tin-  latitude 
of  I/ik'  hilolo  i-  n-allv  the  diviilin^'  line  of  the  water- ;  the 
ria'r.'  -  had  notiei-i]  tin-  and  remarked  i:  to  him  in  advanci1  ot' 
hi-  own  mv'--t  i'_'Mt  lo;i-  indeed.  lit  had  -iiMi-ivd  hi-  hundred 
:nd  t  went  \----vent  h  attack  ot  I'  \-i  r  »n  tin-  h'-autilul  |>lain-  of 
Ki-ii  and  wa-  .  f- .•!•!••  thit  he  coiil-1  hardlv  \\alk.atid  la- 
ni'-ntcd  hi-  inalti'.itv  to  examine  i-ari-lullv  a  rc_-ion  \\hii-h  In- 
cnn-idefed  -•'  «  \  •  •  ••  •  1 :  n ..' !  \'  itupoi'tatit.  I'.iit  hi-  -nil-Tin  _--  \\  <  ro 
too  jreat.and  th-  addi'i-nal  anxietv  v,  lueh  the  vomiting  of 


A    N01U.K    CHIKF.  ]f,l 

blood  awakened  made  it  exceedingly  doinhlc  to  advance  with 
as  little  delay  as  possible.  Making  all  po>.-ible  expedition,  ;ill 
his  wonderful  energy  aiul  strength  of  will  need  to  be  in  constant 
exertion  against  the;  depressing  influence  of  tin-  droarv  flat 
country  with  its  deep  forest  gloom.  Possessed  of  that  nature 
which  finds  congenial  eoinpunionship  in  the  hold  and  beautiful 
mountain  seenerv,  and  in  the  wide  ever-heaving  and  foaming 
oeean,  there  was  no  prison-house;  conceivable  m.»re  terrible  than 
such  dull  and  dark  monotony.  And  with  then-fined  taMes  of 
thorough  culture  he  could  not  submit  to  the  isolation  of  societv 
so  absolutely  wanting  in  the  slightest  shadow  ,>f  eongenialitv, 
exeept  in  the  most  entire  obedience  to  dulv  and  unreserved  con- 
secration of  soul  and  body  to  others.  Such  a  life  is  noble  and 
sweetened  by  the  love  of  Christ,  but  it  is  still  a  life  of  pain. 
Self-immolation  may  be  cordial  and  Christ-like,  but  it  is 
agonizing. 

Leaving  the  Lake  Dilolo  by  toilsome  marches,  the  partv  at 
length  entered  the  friendlv  village  of  Katema,  on  the  old  route, 
the  12th  of  .June.  He  had  now  been  three  vears  awav  from  the 
Cape.  They  were  no  longer  troubled  by  ur.kind  impositions; 
the  people  everywhere  manifested  much  sympathy  and  respect. 
Katema  inspired  Dr.  Livingstone  with  real  respect  for  him  bv 
the  generous  and  manly  bearing  which  distinguished  him  in 
their  intercourse.  He  says:  '"  He  desired  me  to  rest  myself  and 
eat  abundantly,  and  took  care  to  see  that  I  had  the  means  of 
doing  so.  When  he  visited  our  encampment,  I  presented  him 
with  a  cloak  of  red  bai/.e,  ornamented  with  uo!<l  tinsel,  which 
cost  thirty  shillings,  according  to  the  promise  I  had  made  in 
going  to  Londa ;  also  a  cotton  robe,  both  large  and  small 
beads,  an  iron  spoon,  and  a  tin  pannikin  containing  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  powder.  He  seemed  great  Iv  pleased  with  ihe 
liberality  shown,  and  assured  me  that  the  way  was  mine,  and 
that  no  one  should  molest  me  in  it  if  he  could  help  it.  \\'e 
were  informed  bv  Shakatwala  that  the  chief  never  used  anv 
|>?xrt  of  a  present  before  making  an  offer  of  it  to  his  mother, 
or  the  departed  spirit  to  whom  lie  praved.  Katema  asked  it' 
I  could  not  make  a  div—  for  him  like  the  on<  I  wore.  >o  that 
he  mi^ht  appear  as  a  white  man  when  anv  stranger  vi>ited  him. 
One  of  the  councillors,  ima^inim;  that  he  ouu'ht  to  .-econd  this 


102  THK    I.KKHA. 

liv  begging.  Katema  checked  him  l»v  saving,  '  Whatever  strangers 
give,  be  it  little  <>r  much,  I  alwavs  receive  it  with  thankfulness, 
and  never  trouble  them  for  more.'  ( )n  departing,  he  mounted 
on  the  shoulders  of  hi.-  -]>oke.-nian,  a-  the  nio-t  dignified  mode 
of  retiring." 

An  equally  plea-ant  reception  wa-  waiting  for  him  at  Shinte'a 
town.  Ami  it  delighted  \\\<  heart  t<>  "It-erve  that  the  infor- 
mation he  was  able  to  give  that  ehief'nf  tin*  u-e-  to  which  .-laves 
were  jiiit  in  Angola,  and  the  pi-'>"f  he  «jave  of  the  extortions 
of  the  Maml>ari,  .-eemed  t«>  i.jM'ii  hi«  eye-  it.  the  evil  of  allow- 
ing his  -ubjeets  carried  awav  int..  lw>ndage.  And  parting  on 
good  terms  with  him  and  hi-.  JK-. iple,  he  j<ntrnevei]  mi  to  the  town 
of  his  -i-ter,  through  who-c  imjM»rtuni(ies  In-  li:id  formed  th<» 
ac«|iiaintanee  «  f  Shinte  a-  he  j>a--ed  up  tin-  eniintrv.  Procuring 
c;iniM-s  of  thi-  ladv,  the  partv  launched  on,-,-  mure  «.:i  the  nolilo 
L'-eKa,  who~e  charming  -e.  n.-rv  had  in  v<  r  faded  from  their 
thought.1*  in  all  their  wandering.  Kveryihing  wa-  life  along 
tho-e  hanks;  all  the  old  familiar  game  and  the  more -ava^e 

In-.L-ts  made  tin  ir   apjM-aranee    fnipiciilly,  lint  wej-e    t -autioiM 

to  ei.me  within  the  range  »i'  the  L.r|ni~.  The  -j-ht  •«)'  >.»  manv 
glo-.-v  hide-  and  to--ing  antler-  e\eit«  d  a  craving  t-«r  "a  ^..od 
meal  of  meat."  Hi-  tonth  Ix-eanie  -o  eager  \',,\-  .-.Tviee  in  tliat 
line  that  Living-tone  ln-gan  to  look  ratln-r  undeeid< -dl\-  mi  hi- 
faithful  old  o\,  "  Sin/, >ii!,"  \\lueli  had  earned  him  .-o  manv  liuu- 
dn-d  mile-.  lint  the  Makololo  had  come  to  count  Sinliad  a- 
one  of  the  party,  and  their  gentle  prote-t  \\a-  allowe<l  to  prevail. 
The  faithful  creature  f.  11  a  victim  to  the  t-et-e  though  and 
end'-d  hi-  dav-  at  Nalide  in  peae.'. 

Though  now  -nrr»iind'd  l>\  •jarne.  th'-  partv  liad  |ia--ed  the 
fo;iflue|iee  of  tfie  I,.-.-lia  and  !<••«  aml'Ve  Keforc  th.-\-  had  a  fea-t  of 
t!'--!i.  I!i'-  \va-  'jivi'ii  them  li\-  -time  hunter-  '.\h'UM  tln-v  nut. 
I  r.  in_'-tone  had  I.eeti  -o  l..n_-  i. ui  ..f  the  land  "f  _'ani<-  that  In- 
hid  I  -t  hi-  -Kill  and  ini-ed  .-v.-rything  !"•  -hot  at.  .\'>»ul 
t  h .  -  T  i  IIP\  IP  >'.-. '  \  i  r,  IP-  d>  'ten ii i  in  d  I'  i  t  r\  and  f'  I  rii-ve  hi-  P-pn 
tatii'ii  \\iih  I'P-  jun  ;  and  h.i\in_r  WoUinli-d  a  /'-lira,  he  -l.>\vlv 
fo||m\i-«l  al'iii-/  "ti  t!,.-  tra'-l.  "t  hi-  in«  n  \\  IP.  had  'ji\i-n  il  eha-e. 
\\'hil.-  ihii-  alone.  I,,-  -ndd.-nlv  di-e,,vi-rei|  a  -injl.-  l.iitValo.  a 
liT/f  linll,  ru-hing  niad!\  t-.'^aid  him.  lie  -a\\  "ii!\  "lie  tree 
on  1  IP-  plain,  and  that  -oiin-  d  :-t.ni'  >•  otV;  t  here  \\  a-  i-vidciii  I  v  n<» 


MAKOIX)LO    RECEITION'.  j^;j 

escape,  and  he  calmly  raised  his  gun  and  waited  for  the  moiwter 
to  come  near  enough  for  a  fatal  shot  in  the  forehead.  We  have 
noticed  before  his  opinion  of  this  animal.  Nothing  is  more 
trying  than  just  such  a  position  awaiting  such  a  charge.  J'ut 
the  moment  came.  The  aim  was  true  and  the  tremendous  ani- 
mal bounded  aside  and  rushing  to  the  brink  of  the  river  fell 
dead.  Livingstone  felt  it  to  be  an  occasion  for  gratitude  to 
God  that  his  life  had  been  preserved. 

The  arrival  at  Libonta  was  indeed  a  great  occasion.  This,  it 
will  be  remembered,  is  the  border  town  of  the  Malvdolo  author- 
ity. They  had  never  been  received  before  with  siidi  demon- 
strations of  joy.  Livingstone's  description  of  this  scene  is  lull 
of  interest.  "  The  women,"  says  he,  "came  forth  to  meet  ir-, 
making  their  curious  dancing  gestures  and  loud  lulliloos.  Some 
carried  a  mat  and  stick,  in  imitation  of  a  spear  and  shield. 
Others  rushed  forward  and  kissed  the  hands  and  cheeks  of  the 
different  persons  of  their  acquaintance  among  us,  raising  such  a 
dust  that  it  was  quite  a  relief  to  get  to  the  men  assembled  and 
sitting  with  proper  African  decorum  in  the  kotla.  We  were 
looked  upon  as  men  risen  from  the  dead,  for  the  most  skilful 
of  their  diviners  had  pronounced  us  to  have  perished  long  a_io. 
After  many  expressions  of  joy  at  meeting,  I  arose,  and,  thank- 
ing them,  explained  the  causes  of  our  long  delay,  but  left  the 
report  to  be  made  by  their  own  countrymen.  Formerly  1  had 
been  the  chief  speaker,  now  I  would  leave  the  task  of'  speaking 
to  them.  Pitsane  then  delivered  a  speech  of  upward  of  an  hour 
in  length,  giving  a  hiiddv  flattering  picture  of  the  whole  jour- 
nev,  of  the  kindness  of  the  white  men  in  general,  and  of  Mr. 
Gabriel  in  particular.  lie  concluded  by  saying  that  1  had  done 
more  lor  them  than  they  expected  ;  that  I  had  not  onlv  opened 
up  a  path  fiir  them  to  the  other  white  men,  but  conciliated 
all  the  chiefs  along  the  route.  The  olde-t  man  prc-eiit  ro-e 
and  answered  this  -speech,  and,  among  other  things,  alluded  to 
the  disgust  I  felt  at  the  Makololo  for  engaging  :n  marauding 
expeditions  against  Lechulatehc  and  Sebolamakwaia,  of  which 
we  had  heard  from  the  first  persons  we  met,  and  which  mv  com- 
panions most  energetical Iv  denounced  as  '  mashue  hela.1  en- 
tirelv  bad.  lie  entreated  me  not  to  lose  heart,  but  to  reprove 
iSekeletu  as  mv  child.  Another  old  man  followed  with  the 


lf>4  THANKSGIVING    SERVICE. 

same  entreaties.  The  following  dav  we  ol*served  as  our  thanks- 
piviii^  to  <i»d  for  his  goodness  in  hrinirinjj  us  all  back  in 
safetv  t<>  "iir  friends.  Mv  mm  Jerked  themselves  out  in  tlu-ir 
U>t.  and  I  found  that,  although  their  j^ood-  were  finished,  they 
had  managed  t<>  .-ave  suits  of  Kuroj>can  clothing,  which,  Ix-ing 
white,  with  their  ml  caps  gave  them  rather  a  dashing  ap- 
[x-aranee.  They  tried  to  walk  like  the  soldiers  they  had  soon 
in  J^ianda,  and  called  themselves  my  'braves'  (batlubani). 
I>tiriiiLr  the  >erviee  tiny  all  sat  with  their  guns  over  their 
shoulders,  and  excited  the  unbounded  admiration  of  the  wonim 
and  children." 

It  wa-  a  seene  lor  angel*'  cv<s;  that  uro<»d  man  pointing 
those  jMH>r  heathen  awav  from  their  own  j>mwe»  and  their 
charms  and  himself  to  (Jod's  jjoxMlncss  in  n-turnini;  them  >alely, 
after  so  lon^j  a  time  and  -neh  hardships.  Thev  heard  him 
irladlv,  and  were  lavi-h  of  ^it't.-  ;  almo-t  everv  dav  o\m  wen1 
-lau^htered.  'I'hev  manif«->tetl  no  emio-rn  al«'Ut  ^if'l-  for  them- 
-clvi>  ;  thev  were  only  ulad  to  v,.r  jh,.  whole  parlv  back  ,-at'elv, 
ami  were  ininittliutrlv  en^a^ed  in  collii'tin^  tusks  fur  a  second 

joiiniev. 

The  rejoirin^;  of  the.  men,  after  -o  lonj^  an  absence,  at  bemt; 
oiirc  mun-  in  their  own  coimtrv,  had  some  drawbacks  in  cer- 
tain rhaujji-s  that  time  had  wrought.  Their  \\i\e-  had  in  maiiv 
in-tanee.-  <_rr«>wn  \\earv  of  watching,  and  found  a  Milaee  tor  their 
•jriefin  the  \ve<lil«-<|  love  of  other  men.  '1  lie  faithful  Mashuaiitt 
\\:i~  one  of  the  di.sippointefl  one*,  and  he  <  out radicted  hi-  philo- 
••ophie  declaration,  "  NV  ive-  are  plentiful  a-  Lri'-'i^  :  I  can  Lret  an- 
other; -he  mav  Lfo,"  bv  muttering  iminediatelv,  '  If  I  had  that 
(••How,  I  Would  open  In-  ear-  for  him."  1' 'or  -mne  of  the  poor 
fellow-  who  had  tlm-  lo-t  their  onlv  \\i\e-,  Li\  iie_r-tone  inter- 
r.  ded  with  the  ehief  and  had  them  i-epo--e--ed  of  their  loving 
••poii-e-  ;  other-  he  mm f I>r ted  \\ith  the  i'ei 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 e|-.  that  after  their 
lo— thev -till  hail  more  wive>  than  he.  I'.u!  that  \va-  an  nn-atis- 
t'aetorv  rifl'i-tion,  in  view  of  the  faet  that  "\\hile  tln\  were 
toiling  another  ua-  devouring  their  eorn." 

<  >n   the   l.",'h  of  Anjn-t.  the  part\    \>\"\    Naliele  and   uere  t'lid- 

|[l_'.lioHLr  \  ef\  Iplletlv  when,  Illo-t  II  ||e\  pei  tei  1 !  \',  (l|e\  \S  e|'e  fe- 
mi  nd«-d  of'  the  f'aet  that  I  hi -V  were  no  longer  ill  the  litl-h--  bonier 

r«yion.      'I  he  hip|Hi|H»tamu-  \\  hieh  -t  rnek  the  boat   b IN  >1  it 


<;KANJ>  OATIII-:KIX<J  AT  LI.VYANTI.  if,.") 

out  of  the  water  and  hustled  the  whole  party  out  ino.-t  urn-riv- 
inouiouslv,  and  looking  hack,  quite  indifferently,  seemed  t-»  a>k 
derisively,  "  What  h:is  happened?" 

The  river  villages  had  much  the  appearance  of  two  years  lx>- 
fbre.  The  entire  descent  of  the  Leeambvc  \vas  a  sort  of  ova- 
tion heeause  of  the  jov  of  the  villagers.  Then-  was  another 
grand  gathering  at  Linyanti.  And  the  "  braves,"  "  the  true 
ancients,  who  had  seen  wonderful  things,"  told  their  storv  to 
their  hearts'  delight.  The  facts  had  lost  nothing  !>v  the  wav  ; 
facts  hardly  ever  seem  to  he  diminished  by  repetition.  Seke- 
letu  created  a  decided  sensation  when  he  appeared  in  his  colonel's 
uniform.  The  presents  of  strange  and  wonderful  things  were 
received  as  unquestionable  evidences  of  the  truth  of  the  most 
marvellous  accounts  which  the  man  could  give.  But  when 
the  braves  appeared  in  their  white  suits,  and  sat  in  the  circle:- 
with  their  guns  resting  on  their  shoulders  like  real  ''  braves/ 
it  was  a  signal  lor  the  delight  of  wives  and  the  envy  of  women 
generally.  The  old  looked  serious,  the  voting  looked  delighted. 
Events  were  pointing  toward  the  grandeur  which  no  tribe  could 
hope  to  rival.  The  delight  was  innocent  and  commendable. 

In  looking  back  on  his  journev  from  Linvanti,  Livingstone 
felt  that  there  was  indeed  a  great  obstacle  to  missionarv  enter- 
prises in  the  character  of  the  forests,  tlte  denseness  and  mukuess 
of  the  growth,  and  in  the  floods  which  occasion  snrh  virulent 
fevers.  But  he  believed,  nevertheless,  that  the  interior  of  this 
country  presents  much  more  inviting  fields  for  mis-iouarv  labor 
than  the  western  coast,  where  successful  stations  have  been  so 
long  in  operation.  Though  he  suffered  so  greatly  him-elf,  I 
could  easilv  see  how  the  habits  of  ordinary  missionarv  life  would 
protect  a  man  against  such  ills  in  lar^e  measure.  (  'oinparing 
the  interior  with  the  west  coast,  he  say-:  "There  the  fevers  are 
much  more  virulent  and  more  speed! Iv  fatal  than  here,  for  from 
8°  south  they  almost  invariably  take  the  intermittent  or  least 
fatal  type;  and  their  effect  being  t<>  enlarge  the  spleen,  a  com- 
plaint which  is  best  treated  bv  a  change  of' climate,  we  have  the 
remedy  at  hand  by  passing  the  I'O'h  parallel  on  our  wav  -outh. 
But  I  am  not  to  be  understood  as  intimating  that  anv  of  the 
numerous  tribes  are  anxious  for  instruction  :  thev  are  not  the 
inquiring  spirits  we  read  of'  in  other  countries;  thev  do  not  do- 


1ft)  PLANS    FOH    THE    FfTfKK. 

bin-  tin-  gos|)cl,  lx.fauso  they  know  nothing  ulx>ut  cither  it  ot 
it>  hciU'tiUi  ;  l>ut  there  is  no  impediment  in  the  wav  of  in-true- 
tion.  Kvt-ry  head  man  would  !*•  proud  of  a  Kuro|H.iui  visitor 
or  resident  in  hi-  territory,  ami  there  i.-  perfect  -eeurity  lor  lite 
ami  property  all  over  the  interior  country.  Tin-  «;ivat  harriers 
whit  h  have  kept  Africa  shut  are  the  unhealthiness  of  the  co:iM, 
an<l  the  ex.-lu.-ive,  illiU-ral  di.-po-ition  ot'  the  border  trilx-s.  It 
has  not  within  the  historic  period  IM-.-II  cut  into  bv  deep  arms 
of  the  sea,  and  onlv  a  -mall  fringe  of  it>  population  have  mine 
into  eontaet  with  the  re-t  of  mankind.  Rare  has  niueh  to  do 
in  the  pn>ent  cireuni-tanet-s  of'  nation-  ;  \t-t  it  i-  probable  that 
the  unhe;ilthy  eoa-t-eliniate  ha-  r>-ac|«-d  on  tin-  jM-oplc,  and  aided 
both  in  jH-rpetuatini;  tlieir  o\\  n  de;jnidation  and  preventing 
those  more  inland  from  having  intercourse  with  the  re-t  of  the 
world." 

Mav  we  not  hope  that  the  yrowini;  inter<--t  in  thi-  va-t  de- 
gnuleil  continent  will  oven-onn-  .-ueh  barriers,  and  e-ial>li-h  -ueh 
c-oinmiini^itioij  with  tli«'  vui»n-  ti'iKc-  of'  th<-  interior  a>  will 
make  the  nio-t  abundant  labors  for  their  ouivi  r-i-ui  not  onlv 
po~>iblc  but  attnietive '.'  I  (  i-  only  ju>(  to  the  mi-.-innarv,  that 
we  ivmembt -r,  in  the  hi>torv  of  the  explon-r,  that  I  >r.  Livin^- 
.-toii'-  \\a-  ii"i  s|M'iidiiiir  hi-  life  in  idle,  aimli--  wandering*, 
through  anv  l-i\'e  of  ad  v«-nt  mv  or  devotion  oidv  t"  -eicnec.  but 
that  hi-  iiii^ht  op.  n  a  hi-^hwav  to  tin-  interior  of  Africa,  in  order 
(Mat  ))••  mi'_;ht  e-tal)li-h  a  mi--ion  .-tatn-n  thei'e  on  a  permanent 
l.a-i-. 

'n  pnr-uaiii-e  of  ihe  idi-a  \\hii-h  had  alleete*!  i-omewhat  his 
action  in  returning  di  reel  I  v  f'roin  I.oanda  to  Linyanti,  he  now 
di-'-idi-d  to  follow  ili.-  /aiiibi--i  to  tin-  ea.-ti-i-n  eo:i-(.  and  wa> 
parri.-uiarlv  i-n.-oiira_'«-d  t»  do  ihi-,  :i>  tin  ir  \sa-  a  ^<><»\  pro-pi-et 
•  .f  water  f'n-ilitii--  all  tli«-  way.  In  tin-  mid-t  »4'  the  prepara- 
tion- t'or  tlii-  n.-\\  joiii'iii-v,  Li\  ni'_'-!"ii>-  found  abundant  einplov- 
m«-iit  in-' nil  t  in-j-  th<-  p.ii|il<-  and  hi-aliiii:  (heir  -iek,  and  -•  •  Kin^ 
to  P  form  tii'-ir  id-  :i~  a'-«'ordiiiL'  \»  th>-  <  'hn-:ian  -t.mdard  a-  f.ir 
a-  i-ouid  i  ••  .  I'.ut  hi-  l;il>o|-  \\:i-  Y<TV  ili-eoiira^in-j.  1'iit  'till  \\:LS 
not  i-ntinlv  \\ithoiit  i-tli-et.  Som.-tinn-'  h--  \\a-  L'i"«-ailv  p<  r- 
|.i.  \..l,  1'iit  at  l.i  !  roiild  onlv  i .  ni'-iiilH-r  tin-  daikni---  and  di-ad- 
iii---  '.f  lli'-  UUP  j'!i' -rat-1  -oul,  and  rem«-mbi-r  th.-  heathen 
ir  loo  m  lie-  •'[••  at  iii  •--  oi  :iii-  undi-rtakiiiLT  ai'L'Ui-d  it-  nni>  irtane*', 

•  ' 


THK    TRim.'TK   To    I-'AITHFrLNKrtS. 


the  discouragements  of  it  called  lor  prayer.  There  was  DM  ex- 
cuse tor  retreat.  His  hand  wa.s  on  the  plough:  In-  would  not 
look  hack. 

"  The  mother  of  Sekeletu  prepared  a  hag  of  ground-nuts,  by 
frviug  them  in  cream  with  a  little  suit,  forming  a  kind  of  ,-and- 
wichcs,  which  constitute  a  dish  which  the  Makololo  con.side: 
lit  for  a  king."  Sekeletu  appointed  a  man  named  Xthirtlm  and 
Knnyati  to  head  the  party  which  should  attend  him.  Mamiiv, 
who  hail  married  the  mother  of  Sekeletu,  culled  for  a  parting 
word.  "  You  are,"  said  he,  "going  among  a  people  who  can- 
not be  trusted  because  we  have  used  them  badly  ;  but  you  go 
with  a  different  message  from  any  they  have  heard  before,  Je-u- 
will  be  with  you  and  help  you  though  among  enemies,  and  if 
lie  carries  you  safely  and  brings  you  and  Ma  Robert  back  again, 
I  shall  say  he  has  conferred  a  great  favor  on  me.  May  we  ob- 
tain a  path  wherein-  we  may  visit  and  be  visited  by  other  tribes 
and  by  white  men."  This  was  the  most  influential  man  in  the 
triln',  and  his  interest  in  the  enterprise  of  Livingstone  was  C<T- 
tainlv  encouraging. 

He  not  only  gave  his  blessing  and  his  kind  encouragement  in 
words,  but  added,  "  And  as  a  man  wishes,  of  course,  to  appear 
among  his  friends  after  a  long  absence  with  something  of  his 
own  to  show,  the  whole  of  the  ivory  in  the  country  is  your-, 
so  you  must  take  as  much  as  you  can,  and  Sekeletu  will  furni.-h 
you  men  to  earrv  it."  Such  was  the  confidence  and  love  which 
tilled  the  breasts  of  this  people  for  a  man  who  in  all  the  \vars 
of  his  intercourse  with  them  had  been  uniformly  con.-i.-tent  in 
his  own  life  and  devoted  to  their  welfare  ;  a  people  by  no 
means  stupid,  or  given  to  hastv  confidences,  the  mo-t  formid- 
able tribe  in  all  southern  Africa,  and  the  most  warlike.  A> 
the  reward  of  his  faithfulness,  Dr.  Living-tone  wa>  thus  adopted 
bv  the  children  of  the  wilderness,  and  was  allowed  to  employ 
tneir  o'.vn  energies  and  resources  in  opening  a  way  for  Christianity. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

THK    NKW    I.Xl'F.MTlnN. 

j^ke!'-:1!'*  Ki«'liw««-   K.x  |ilanati'in  »f  it     I'ruviilrnrt*   in  hi-  Work— Novtnbn 
."!,  1  - '•       Ti-rril'lf   St^nu     Two  Iluiulr<-.l  Mi-n  in  l.iiif     Tin-   Niaijura  of  Africa 

-Vj.-i..ri.i  I'. ill--  Il.iinl'ow  ami  Sii|H-r-tiU"ii  'I'll--  l'..i'..k:i  -A  Nt-lwnrk  of 
l:i\.-r-  Th-  l.\|.!anati  .n  Tra.liti.ni-  -Tln-l'ir-t  \\liU.-M.iii--liat.ikaCliii-ls 
-  I',.i!.  L:i  It. •!..•!-  I'd.'  i:.i.-1rrn  lli'L'i-  I  .•  .nu'i  n  _•  l'..r  t/tiirt  -'Jat.-k.:*,  (irlu-r- 
..-ity  \  |:.-.-.-|.U.,M  I.ivii../-t..i,,.->  r.,ur.,-.-  I'.-Wi-r  •.!  t!i.-  ('.-|..-1  Aw,.I 
\Vlii:.-  M.'i.  An  Iii.-i.l.-ni  Mi, -i.. nary  Inlln.-ii,-.-  \nim.i!-  I:-l!:i!..  I'.inl 
l:h:ii...  -  I'.ir.l  >..l,|i,-r  Ant-  \Vliit.-Ani-  A  n  I !!.  |.h.int  1 1  unt  Kl.  |.hftiit'» 
Ch.ira.-ti-r  lirliau  airl  Al'riian  ( 'n!ii|iarcil  -I>i>«n  tlir  l.ii-it". 

Ii  i-  intcnstin^  to  ftlisrrvc;  tli<-  rcsuliiit'ss  with  whicli  the 
M:ikuln]ii  put  th«-in~cl\-(-  ;i^:iin  at  tin-  x-rvirr  nf  I  )r.  Living- 
stone in  lu~  ctliirt-  to  lirin«j  the  ti'lln-  inti>  <-oiii!iiiiiin-ati(i:i  \\ith 
tin-  \\  hite  jic(i|ilr  ami  open  the  In -art-  ol'  A  t'rieu  to  the  <\  n  i  pal  hie- 
ot'  the  ('hri-tian  \\orM.  The  wnncU-rful  lile-\vi»rk  o("  ihi-  i_Teat 
man,  pruM-cuti1*!  -o  lun^  ami  taithi'tlllv  in  Atriea.  ji|-e-»-ni-  a 
jilea~in_r  e.(iitr;u~t  with  maiiv  of  the.  ••ntrrpri-is  nt'  explorer-, 

Which    have     l>ee|l     attelldcil    Wltll    ^I'eat.    e\pell-e     ami    the    v|nalh'-t 

re-nil-.  \\nli  th"  ine< in-nleralile  silarv  o|  a  ini--ionarv,  I.iv- 
i!)Lr-!"!i'-  had  traversed  alreadv  maiiv  ot'  the  ultx-iirc^t  wild<, 
awakiir_r  IH-'.V  a-|»irat  ion-  m  \'arioii-  trilx-  hitherto  unknown. 
-otieinn-j  the  jm-jndici-i  o('  dilli-rent  M-etimi-.  and  ••nei 'iir:iL.rm^  a 
-pirit  "I  trateniil  N  anioii'^  t  h"-e  pet  t  v  -<  iveivi^nt  ie-  \\  Ineli  proni- 
i-ed  tn  ripen  m!o  a  -\'-tem  of  kindlv  inten-Miir-e  that  inav 
event nallv  -nli-iitnte  cunlidenee  fur  di-tni-l  and  Imiie-i  ti'ade 
lor  plunder  and  war.  And  no\\  he  -et-  tul'tli  mi  a-  loii'_r  a 
jmirnev.  -o  ahtindant Iv  prnvidc<l  t"r  and  -"  \\vll  f-cnrtei|  that 
In-  app'  'i!4-  Hi'. re  'ike  the  -ervant  of  a  kin/  than  a  l«'iie|\  toiler. 

With      Ho     i-ollllll!~-!on      l»Ut      hi-      |o\'e      |o|-     <  iod      alld      lllell.     Mild      I)o 

l»:i«'k  ;  ii_;  I  .lit  a  ehai'ai'ter  v\  lin«c  e<  ii-reet  ni---  eo.ninandi  d  ennlidi'iiec. 
It  \\a-  !"-a'i-'-  the  ||i-:itheti  hoiiore<l  th.-  man  and  emifided  in 

hi-  I..1..  ,  that  flu  \  adopted  him  and  hi-  \\ork,  and  I.eeaii-e  he 
toiind  tho-'1  h«a!h--n  heart-  -o  \\ann  and  hlw-ral.  he  felt  that 
he  <,,n!d  <  ndni'e  al!  thin.'-  lor  their  ^..o«|  and  iniinolate  him-elf 


THE    EXPLANATION*    OF    IT.  ](}() 

on  the  altar  of  their  enlightenment.  We  honor  Livingstone 
for  the  puritv  and  strength  which  could  so  charm  and  control 
those  degraded  savages,  and  we  are  conscious  of  a  deeper  inter- 
est in  the  savages  who  possess  hearts  so  readily  charmed  bv 
|>uritv  and  in  love  with  honor.  The  singular  co-operation  of 
the  wild  trilx-s  with  a  lonely  missionary  for  the  accompli.-h merit 
of  ends  which  might  dignifv  the  noblest  civilization,  furni.-hes 
ix  commentarv  on  the  missionary  and  on  the  tribes,  unsurpassed 
in  history. 

lint  it  ought  not  to  be  wonderful  that  a  single  Christian  man 
should  penetrate  even  those  wilds  and  summon  about  him  friends 
eager  to  help  him,  for  there  is  a  power  of  kindness  mightier 
than  the  word  of  kings,  and  there  is  a  providence  of  (Jod 
mightier  than  prejudice.  We  cannot  fail  to  perceive  the  presence 
of  an  influence  more  beneficent  than  chance  and  more  sagacious 
than  human  wisdom  in  the  events  which  were  gradually  con- 
verting the  life  of  Livingstone  into  that  of  an  explorer.  And 
we  cannot  fail  to  perceive  an  influence  superior  to  that  of  in- 
tellect emanating  from  this  divinely  appointed  man.  An  edict 
had  gone  forth  among  those  tribes  mightier  than  the  desire  of 
a  hundred  missionaries,  commanding  their  favor  for  tlm-e  new 
enterprises,  and  a  law  was  prevailing  in  the  camps  of  those 
voluntary  followers  more  potent  than  any  outward  show  of 
authority.  The  sign  of  the  cross  was  the  unseen  banner  over 
Livingstone,  the  love  of  his  heart  was  the  unseen  power  of  the 
man:  both  were  new  in  Africa  :  both  are  powerful  everywhere. 
By  the -favor  of  God  and  the  power  of  love  he  enlisted  the  most 
ignorant  and  degraded  men  in  the  highest  and  holiest  service. 
I  low  real  and  how  abundant  their  interest  was  is  man  i  lifted  in 
the  cordiality  and  perseverance  of  their  attention.  A  more 
warm-hearted  and  resolute  body  of  men  was  hardly  ever  seen 
than  assembled  on  the  3d  of  November,  is.")."),  at  the  town  of 
Linyanti,  to  attend  the  "friend  of  Scbituane  "  on  his  journev 
to  the  sea.  Sekeletn  himself  accompanied  him  as  far  a-  the 
splendid  falls  of  the  Zambesi,  and  with  his  own  eyes  saw  that  the 
large  company  which  he  had  furnished  for  the  expedition  were 
well  under  way  and  thoroughly  equipped.  Before  thcv  hail 
reached  that  point  indeed,  while  still  in  the  vallev  of  the  Chobe, 
before  reaching  Sesheke,  the  party  encountered  one  of  those  ter- 


170  TWO    HUNDRED    MEN    IN    LINE. 

riblc  storms  which  distinguish  Africa  pre-eminently.  The  storms 
<>f  Africa  oven  are  wilder  than  in  other  lands;  the  clouds  are 
deeper  and  blacker  and  more  angry-looking ;  the  thunders  are 
hoarser  and  heavier,  and  lightnings  flash  more  vividlv.  That 
night  was  made  absolutely  dreadful  ;  the  swift  successions  of 
pitchy  glixjm  and  glaring  brilliancy  as  of  the  heavens  on  lire 
wen-  U'wildering  and  terrifying  ;  and  a  pelting  rain,  increasing 
the  discomforts  of  the  hour,  initiated  the  new  enterprise  which 
wa-  to  be  full  of  weariness  and  adventure. 

Including  the  personal  attendants  of  Sekeletu,  the  party  com- 
pri-ed  about  two  hundred  men  when  it  left  Sshcke.  One  hun- 
dred and  fourteen  of  these  had  been  assigned  as  the  special 
companions  of  I>r.  Livingstone.  Some  of  the  partv  floated 
along  in  cawws,  while  others  marched  along  the  bank  with 
the  oxen.  They  were  following  the  same  river  which  they  had 
(inrrnili'il  in  the  former  journev.  There  is  not  properlv  anv  dis- 
tinction to  be  made  Iwtween  the  Leeambve  and  /aml>e-i.  Thev 
are  names  applied  to  the  same  stream  in  different  section-  of  the 
country.  The  distinction  which  has  been  made  bv  -oiue  writers 
is  not  sustained  bv  the  ol>ser  vat  ions  of  I>r.  Livingstone  or  other 
travellers  who  have  reached  its  banks  ;  both  name*  inijilv 
"///••  /•/'••/-,"  and  are  applie<l  to  this  noble  .-tream  a-  a  distinction 
of  eminence  Ixx-au-e  it  i<  thi'  great  river  »j  tt>,  cnimtri/. 

The  grand,  indescribable,  mysterious  M-enery  w;us  a  fitting 
attendant  of  the  song  of  the  Ijoatmen,  which  ran, 

"Tin-  I/ecamhve!  nolxxly  known 
Whither  it  COIIH-S  ur  wliillit-r  it  foes," 

ati'l  acrorde«l  well  with   the   fable-;  which  were   told   of  mighty 

m"M-ter-  whieh  sometimes  held  the  canoes  of  the  nafive.s  rno- 
ti"iile--  on  the  -nrface;  and  constituted  a  splendid  introduc- 
tion to  thi-  "' grande-t  seene  in  all  Africa,"  w'hich  wa<  -oon  i< 
biif-t  on  »h«-  view  of  the  traveller:  for  the  Niau'ani  of  Africa 
WM-  at  hrmd. 

Thi-  wonderful  -pot  has  alwav-  in-pin-d  the  ignorar.l  inh.ibit- 
nnt-  fpf  ih'- countrv  with  awe;  th«-v  onlv  view  it  from  the  dis- 
tance. It-  eolniim^  of  ^moke  like  ini-t  towering  toward  tlw 
rlond-  and  it-  roar  like  antrrv  thunder  i-  all  they  know  of  tin: 
mv-t'Tv,  where  the  Leeatiibye  i-  lo-t  in  an  awful  chasm.  Ther 


THE    XIAOARA    OF    AFRICA.  171 

rail  the  wonder  Mosioatunya,  "smoke  sounding."  I'ut  Living- 
stone culled  it  Victoria.  "After  twenty  minutes  sail  from 
Kalai,"  he  writes,  "  \ve  came  in  sight,  for  the  fir-t  time,  of  tin- 
columns  of  vapor  appropriately  called  'smoke,'  rising  at  a  di-- 
tance  of  five  or  six  miles,  exact  Iv  a.-  \vlien  large  tracts  of  gra>- 
nre  burned  in  Africa.  Five  columns  now  aro<e,  and,  bending 
in  the  direction  of  the  wind,  they  seemed  placed  against  :i  low 
ridge  covered  with  trees;  the  tops  of  the  column-  at  tin.-  distance 
apj>earcd  to  mingle  with  the  clouds.  Thev  were  white  below, 
and  higher  up  became  dark,  so  as  to  simulate  smoke  yerv 
closely.  The  whole  scene  was  extremely  beautiful  ;  the  banks 
and  islands  dotted  over  the  river  are  adorned  with  sylvan  vege- 
tation  of  threat  variety  of  color  and  form.  At  the  period  of 
our  visit  several  trees  were  spangled  over  with  blossoms.  Trees 
have  each  their  own  physiognomy.  There,  towering  over  all, 
stands  the  groat  burly  baobab,  each  of  whose  enormous  arms 
would  form  the  trunk  of  a  large  tree,  beside  groups  of  graceful 
palms,  which,  with  their  feathery-shaped  leaves  depicted  on  the 
sky,  lend  their  beauty  to  the  scone.  As  a  hieroglyphic  they 
always  moan  'far  from  home,'  for  one  can  never  get  over  their 
foreign  air  in  a  picture  or  landscape.  The  silvery  mohonono, 
which  in  the  tropics  is  in  form  like  the  cedar  of  Lebanon,  stands 
in  pleasing  contrast  with  the  dark  color  of  the  mot-ouri,  whoso 
cypress-form  is  dotted  over  at  present  with  its  pleasant  scarlet 
fruit.  Some  trees  resemble  the  great  spreading  oak.  others  as- 
sume the  character  of  our  own  elms  and  chestnuts  ;  but  no  one 
can  imagine  the  beauty  of  the  view  from  anv  tiling  witnessed 
in  England.  It  had  never  been  seen  before  by  European  eyes; 
but  scenes  so  lovely  must  have  been  gaxed  upon  bv  angels  in 
their  flight.  The  only  want  felt  is  that  of'  mountains  in  the 
background.  The  falls  are  bounded  on  three  sides  by  ridges 
three  or  four  hundred  feet  in  height,  which  are  covered  with 
forests  and  with  red  soil  appearing  among  the  trees. 

"  When  about  half  a  mile  from  the  tails  I  left  the  canoe  in 
which  we  had  come  that  far,  and  embarked  in  a  smaller  one. 
with  men  well  acquainted  with  the  rapids,  who.  bv  pas-in^  down 
the  coil t re  of  the  stream,  in  the  eddies  and  still  place-  cau-ed  1  v 
the  many  jutting  rocks,  brought  me  to  an  i-land  situated  in  the 
middle  of  the  river,  and  on  the  edge  of  the  lip  over  which  the 


172  THE    MAGAUA    OF    AFRICA. 

water  rolls.     In  coming  hither  then*  U  danger  of  Ix'ing  svrept 

by  the  i-land  in  cither  of  tin-  -uvai»-  which  ru-li  along  at  itd 
•ides,  a  no!  the  landing  could  hardl\  or  etlerted  except  in  verv 

low  water,  a-  w:i>  tin-  ca-e  at  the  linn-  of  our  vi>it.  Hut  even 
on  the  i-land  n«i  one  could  po--ii.lv  |M  rceive  when-  tin-  va-t  l>ody 
of  water  went.  It  wa-  onlv  \\ln-n  1  had  -uccivded  in  cm-ping 
with  awe  to  the  verv  ver^e,  and  peered  down  into  a  largo  rent 
which  had  been  made  from  hank  to  hank  of  t ho  broad  /am- 
U--i,  that  I  >aw  a  -tream  a  thousand  vard-  l>n>ad  leap  down  a 
hnndre<l  Jcct  and  then  IMHXMIH'  -uddenlv  compressed  into  a  sj»acc 
of  fifteen  or  tweutv  vard-.  '//<•  <M%/V  /.r//.v  a/-,-  nimnli/  n  crack 
IH't'l.  in  /<«//••/  bitx't/tii-  /-.,<•/;,  j'miii  t/»  ri'/lit  >>i  tin  /•  ft  l"!nl;  nf  tfif 
Z< nnfx.fi.  and  then  prolonged  from  the  left  l.ank  awav  through 
thirtv  or  lortv  mile-  ot'  hii!-.  In  looking  do\\  n  into  the  li--nro 

On   the  right     of   the    i-laild     one    .-ee>     nothing    I>U1    a  deli-e   \\lil   i> 

cloud,  which  at  the  time  we  vi-itcd  the  -poi  had  two  liri^nt 
rainlxjws  on  it.  I-'rom  thi->  cloud  ni-he<l  up  a  -jreat  jetot'vap-ir 
exactly  like,  ste-ani,  and  it  iiiounted  two  or  three  hundred  feet ;  there 
conden-iuiTi  :t  ehangnl  it'  hue  to  that  of  dark  smoke,  and  cat  no 
hack  in  a  con-taut  shower,  which  -oon  wetted  u>  to  the  *km. 
Thi-  -hower  liill-  chiellv  on  the  t>|ipo-it«-  -ide  of  the  li  — nre,  and 
A  f'-'.v  \-anl-  hack  from  the  lij>  there  .-land-  a  straight  hedge  of 
evergreen  tree-,  \vho-e  leave-  are  alwavs  wet.  I-'roin  their  roots 
a  numlier  ot'  little  rill-  run  hack  into  the  mill',  hut,  a.-  thev  How 
ilown  the  -t(«-ji  wall  there,  the  column  ot'  vapor,  in  it-  ascent, 
lick-  tin -in  up  clean  "tV  the  j-o'-k,  and  awav  thev  mount  again. 
1  iic\-  are  coii-lantlv  runnuiLT  down,  hut  never  reach  the  l>ottom. 
"  <  >n  the  |,. it  of  the  i-laiid  we  -ee  the  water  at  the  l>ottoiu,  a 
white  roll ini;  ma—  moving  awav  to  the  | irolongat ion  of  the  fisHjiro, 
\\hi--h  hranche-  oil'  near  the  left  Kank  of  the  river.  A  jiiM-c  of 
the  p,,-k  ha-  lalleii  o(V  a  -pot  on  th«-  left  of  the  i-land,  and  juts 
out  tV"in  tin-  uater  h.-low,  and  from  it  I  judged  the  di-(an<« 
\i  iii'-h  tii'-  water  fill-  to  l.e  one  hundred  feet.  The  wall-  "f  this 
gigantic  crack  an  perpeuiheiilar,  and  coiiipo-.-d  o)  om>  homo- 
tf.ii'oii-  mi--  ot"  p.ck.  The  ed^c  o('  that  -ide  o\-er  which  tin1 
water  t'i'.i-  i-  \s..rn  ")]'  t  \\ , ,  ,,r  three  feet,  and  pi.  •«•.--  have  fallen 
.'t'.sav.  -o  a-  t"  u'ive  it  -.  i!ii.  \\  hat  of' a  -crrat.-d  appearance.  That 
over  'Ahi'li  tlie  \\at-rdo--  if. t  fall  i-  <piit'-  -t  rai'jht ,  except  at 
the  left  corner,  uh'T.  a  r- nt  appear-,  and  a  piece  -eem-«  in- 


RAINBOW    SUPERSTITION.  175 

clined  to  full  off.  Upon  the  whole,  it  is  nearly  in  the  .-tat-'  in 
which  it  wits  left  ut  the  period  of  it.s  formation.  The  rock  is 
dark  brown  in  color,  except  about  ten  feet  from  the  bottom, 
which  is  discolored  by  the  annual  rise  of  the  water  to  that  or  a 
greater  height.  On  the  left  side  of  the  island  we  have  a  good 
view  of  the  muss  of  water  which  causes  one  of  the  columns  of 
vapor  to  ascend,  as  it  leaps  quite  clear  of  the  rock,  and  ibrms  a 
thick  unbroken  fleece  all  the  way  to  the  bottom.  Its  whiteness 
gave  the  idea  of  snow,  a  sight  1  had  not  seen  for  manv  a  dav. 
As  it  broke  into  (if  I  may  use  the  term)  pieces  of  water,  all 
rushing  on  in  the  same  direction,  each  gave  otf  several  ravs 
of  foam,  exactly  as  bits  of  steel,  when  burned  in  oxvgen  gas, 
give  oil'  rays  of  sparks.  The  snow-white  sheet  seemed  like 
myriads  of  small  comets  rushing  on  in  one  direction,  each  of 
which  left  behind  its  nucleus  rays  of  foam.  J  never  saw  the 
appearance  referred  to  noticed  elsewhere.  It  seemed  to  be  the 
effect  of  the  mass  of  water  leaping  at  once  clear  of  the  rock  and 
slowly  breaking  up  into  spray." 

Before  Sebituaue  had  expelled  the  Batoka  chiefs  from  the  fa.-t- 
nesses  of  the  neighboring  rocks  and  islands,  they  reverenced 
this  spot  as  the  abode  of  Deitv.  Dr.  Livingstone  noticed 
among  several  tribes  dwelling  along  these  rivers  a  derided  awe 
c  '  the  rainbow.  They  associate  it  with  the  gods.  When  seen 
i/i  the  heavens  it  is  spoken  of  as  the  "  pestle  of  the  <_r<>ds,"  and 
S"en  resting  so  quietly  and  beautifully  on  this  strange  cloud  of 
?  >ray,  reigning  so  serenely  over  the  roaring,  raging  ab\>s  of 
X  aters,  there  is  no  wonder  that  it  seemed  like  the  throne  of 
Deity. 

The  Batoka,  who  were  formerly  the  "lords  of  the  isles."  were 
strangely  cruel  and  tyrannical,  and  such  was  the  light  which  his 
inquiries  brought  upon  their  history,  that  Living-tone  \va-  al- 
most willing  to  honor  the  warlike  propensities  of  the  late  chief 
of  the  Makololo,  in  so  far  at  least  as  they  had  to  do  with  driving 
the  horrid  monsters  from  their  fastne«es  in  these  wild  rocks. 
The  beautiful  country  in  which  thev  had  their  home  exerted  no 
more  softening  influence  on  tho~e  savages  than  the  beautiful 
throne  of  their  imagined  divinity  above  the  "  Smoke  Sound- 
ing'' pit.  And  tin1  children  who  recognize  in  sonic  .-ort  the 
ascendency  of  the  Makololo  conquerors  of  their  fathers,  though 
11 


17ti  A  xirnvoKK  OF  KIVKIIS. 

restrained  in  -  >me  degree  by  a  consciou.-m-s  of  comparative 
weakness,  dwell  with  pleasure  on  tin-  -torics  of  LliMxly  bar- 
Isiritv  which  garnish  their  traditions.  '1  lie  -on  of  the  chief, 
who  felt  the  power  of  S-bituane'  arm.-,  w;u-  found  refilling 
am!d.-t  the  ruins  of  his  father's  town,  with  :i  contemptible  ham- 
l"l  growing  up  alnmt  him,  ami  alioiit  hi-  liut  were  to  In-  st-e.ii 
lifty  human  .-kulls  hanging  from  the  .-harp  points  of'  .-takes. 
And  he  gloried  in  the  po--c>-ion  of'  thi-e  -kull-  a-  memorials 
ot  hi-  father.  JMirelv  then.1  can  be  no  more  allieimj  apj>eal  to 
the  ('hri.-tian  heart.-  of  our  fa\'"ri-»l  lan.l,  than  the  picture  of  a 
••on  in  mature  years,  (leli^htin^  (••  L,r:i/e  on  the  >kul!-  of  the 
victim*  of  hi-  father's  tiem-m--.  ! 

J»  'lore,  liowever,  -Uil'crin^  mir-clvc-  !<•»!  a\vav  l>v  the  incidents 
of  the  journev,  it  \\i\\  Itc  prolitaole  and  mea~uraiilv  eiitcrtainuig 
t'»  take  at  h-a-t  a  •_' lance  hack  and  aroiunl  on  the  count rv  which 
liolil-  the  splendid  f;:!I-,  li!;e  a  central  jjjlorv,  the  climax  of  it.- 
wildne.--  and  heaiit  v. 

Theix-  i-.  "i"  Mvni"  to  I"-,  a  thorough  network  of  river-,  whose 
coiir-e-  arc  -o  ti'rtu->!i-  -;nd  \\h'i-.-  intersections  of' each  otin-r  are 
-o  -insular  that  one  i-  iiin-i«lerahlv  pu//lcd  in  the  elllirt  to  keep 
di-tincilv  in  mind  and  avoid  th--  e««nlu-ion  of  fonlouinliu^  them 
one  with  another.  Then'  i-  a  prevalent  eharacteri-tie  of  these 
channels,  too,  which  su^e-;ts  the  thought  ot' some  violent  up- 
h":ival  ina  ]>eri"d  more  or  le—  remoie  a-  the  explanation  of 
th-'ir  e\i-ti  nee.  Hut  the  ahsenee  "t"  anv  tnidition,  however  in- 
di-tinet,  \\hii-li  hint-  of'  an  earthquake  i-  almost  conclusive. 
•  •vid'-nce  a^ain-t  the  ret'-'i'' nee  of'  the  problem  to  an  event,  so 
violent,  particularlv  a-  tin-re  are  manv  tradition-  which  hint  of 
moinentoii-  incident-  in  periods  manifestly  more  remote  than 
the  e\i-teiice  .it'  tip'  fall-  or  river-  even.  "  There  wa-  ti'iind  t\ 
tradition  \\  Inch  r-  -embled  tip-  -torv  ..!'  Sol..mon  and  the  harlot-." 
Th-'V  have  al-o  tlp-ir  ver-ioii  ot'  tip-  t'>w.-r  of  I'.  i!>.-l,  whosft 
build-'r-  abandoned  their  work  o\\iii'_r  to  t  he  incoii\  •cnicin-c  of 
talliipj-  o)'  their  -catlMdlii',:,  and  va-jiic  tiling', 
f  the  to\\i|-  having  come  out  of  a  cave  with 
li  hint-  of  th.  -account  of  Ndah.  It  i-  hardly 
rea-onable  that  an  earthquake  of  -uch  extent  ami  violence  ,-w 
mi  ;'ht  lia\e  produced  tlie  wonderful  ti--ure-  all  over  the  broad 
i-xuan-e  threaded  bv  tlp-e  -mj-u'ar  riv<  r-  would  be  entirely  un- 


THi:    FIICST    WIIITI-:    MAN. 


177 


Iie-.rd  «  i'.  The  oljservutions  of  Dr.  Livingstone  pointed  more 
toward  the  conclusion  that  this  remarkable  irrigation  is  the;  re- 
sult of  thc%  gradual  elevation  of  the  surface  in  a  region  formerly 
occupied  liy  an  extensive  lake,  whose  waters  probably  forced 
their  way  along  the  cracks  and  deeper  fissures  made  bv  the  up- 
heaval of  the  earth.  Tin;  theory  is  sustained  also  by  the  char- 
acter of  the  soil  and  the  presence  of  certain  shells  identical  with 
those  to  be  seen  in  lakes  in  other  sections  of  the  continent.  Th«- 
rivers  have  each  a  double  bed,  the  simple  sharplv  cut  furrow 
in  the  calcareous  tufa  which  probably  lined  the  channel  of  the 
ancient  lake,  and  another  bed  of  inundation.  When  these  hed> 
of  inundation  are  filled  they  look  like  a  great  system  of  lakes. 

Dr.  Livingstone  found  no  indications  hen1  of  the  country's 
having  ever  been  visited  by  a  white  man  previously  to  his  own 
coming,  although  it  has  been  asserted  that  the  Portuguese  had 
possessed  a  chain  of  trading  stations  across  the  continent  before 
that  time  ;  though  there  were  some  evidences  that  the  natives 
had  been  in  contact  with  white  men.  An  old  head  man  at  the 
village  of  Xanulanga  remembered  that  his  father  had  twice 
visited  the  homes  of  the  white  men  when  he  was  a  boy,  and  that 
many  of  the  people  had  gone  who  never  returned. 

These  people  are  decidedly  inferior  to  the  Makololo  in  all  of 
those  characteristics  which  are  pleasing  in  our  eves.  The  char- 
acters of  their  chiefs  in  earlier  times  had  gone  far  toward  form- 
ing their  minds  to  cruelty  and  treachery.  They  had  been 

O  *  .  • 

accustomed  to  a  premium  on  those  acts  which  involve  the  perfec- 
tion of  these  arts  of  barbarism.  Their  personal  appearance,  at 
best  more  degraded  and  negro-like,  is  rendered  more  repuNive 
by  their  singular  custom  of  knocking  out  the  upper  front  teeth 
of  males  and  females,  a  custom  which  lias  a  very  insufficient 
explanation  in  their  desire  "to  look  like  oxen,"  but  which  is  so 
prevalent  that  one  who  has  his  teeth  is  considered  rcrji  ?//////. 

They  dwell  in  a  fertile  country  and  enjoy  nearly  the  sam* 
varieties  of  fruits  as  the  inhabitants  of  Angola,  and  are  abun- 
dantly supplied.  Their  country  also  aboutid<  in  the  wild  ani- 
mals which  were  so  seldom  seen  by  Dr.  Livingstone  in  his 
northwestern  journey  after  leaving  the  borders  of  the  Makololo. 

While  the  Batoka  were  claimed  as  the  subjects  of  Sekelftu. 
a  larixe  part  of  the  tribe  had  begun  to  disregard  his  authority, 


J7S  THK    EAJsTKIlX 

ami  were  understood  to  be  in  OJH-II  revolt.  Indeed  the  villages 
of  Ivaonipi  were  the  last  who<e  jn-ople  were  on  friendly  terms 
with  their  eontpKTors.  These  rebel-  arc  en  joy  in-.:  the  country 
which  was  formerly  the  home  of  Sehituane,  from  which  the 
Matel>ele  forced  him  to  seek  a  more  set-up'  fortress  amid  tho 
swumjis  of  the  Chobe  ami  the  Ixt-ambye.  Ami  it  \vas  well 
worthy  of  the  admiration  of  tin-  Makololo,  who  were  tireless  in 
their  accounts  of  the  va.-t  herds  which  their  lathers  po— e-v-ed 
when  they  lived  there. 

The  route  now  lav  more  dinvtlv  eastward  than  the  bed  of 
the  river,  which  makes  a  detour  southward,  finding  its  way 
around  the-  foot  of  the  rid'jv  which  thev  were  <_rradualiv  a-ceiid- 
in^.  Tlie  ascent  was  >o  gradual  as  thev  advanced  that  it  was 
ol>s«-rveil  more  l>v  the  we>tward  inclination  of  the  stn^im.-  and  the 
general  appejirance  of  elevation  than  l>v  anv  r- inarkaMc  \\\\}+  or 
mountain.^.  The  traveller  was  led  alon^  the  gentle  undulations 
almost  iiiMC'iisibly  to  an  altitude  of  live  thoiixind  ll-i-t  al>«>vc 
the  level  of  the  ->ea.  There  are  none  of  the  marshes  aloivj  these 
plain-;  which  generate  the  enervating;  levers  which  have  almost 
swept  awav  the  .Makololo  in  the  vallcv-.  The  whole  P  <_M<>M  i^ 
remarkably  sjilubriou.s  as  well  as  U'autiful  ;  manv  of  the  jdaiin 
arc  almost  treelos  and  are  covered  with  ,-hort  t:ras<.  There  is 
a  noticeable  alienee  of  fountain-^,  and  the  river  Kalomo  i<  tho 
onlv  river  in  the  \\hole  >ee|jnn  which  never  drie-  up.  This 
tlo-,\-  awav  *oilthward  after  the  /aml><--i. 

Though  the  liatoka  ol  tln~  region  claim  to  In-  independent, 
thev  have  Keen  -ofrly  alllietcd  I >y  the  war-  of  the  Makololo,  and 
do  not  enjov  their  splendid  conntrv  a-  thev  mi^ht  under  other 
rirciiin-tance-.  '1  hev  are  sadlv  ile^radetl,  Imt  were  j^lad  to  hear 
ot  a  name  which  savored  of  peace  and  P--.J.  Surelv  the  wetin- 
ije~,  and  mi-erv  of  tin-  heathen,  t'>--e,l  and  torn  a-  ihev  are  l>v 
the  convnl-ioii-  of  their  un!utor>il  -i.<  ieiv,  and  l>v  the  i-vil  ]>as- 
-ii>n~  .if  their  heart-,  tli"iiLrh  indeed  thev  mav  ii"t  eoinprehend 
their  p-al  \\>it\  and  thoutrh  thev  mav  have  ne\ ,  r  heard  of  .It>u*, 
is  a  pra\  er  which  will  move  the  hand  of  (|,,d.  h  wa-,  \TO 
know,  the  pitiable  -peetacle  of  human  -i'n-->w  \\  lii<-h  mo\-ed 
him  to  i -om pa.-- ion  and  brought  hi-  dear  S.  in  t.i  lie  onr  Saviour. 
although  the  I'.atoka  could  not  under-iand  the  full  ini|>"rt  of 
'he  n\<-s^a^e  when  l)r.  Living-tone  -puke  to  them  of  him  who-e 


J.ON»;I.N<;   FOR  I-KACK.  jy,j 

word  is  "  peace  on  c:irtli  and  good-will  to  men."  It  i>  nut 
wonderful  that  they  sei/ed  the  idea  of  |>cacc  so  eagerlv.  Their 
country  has  been  visile* I  by  successive  scourges  during  the  last 
halt' century,  and  they  arc  now  "a  nation  scattered  and  peeled."' 
When  Sehituane  came,  the  cattle  wen.'  innumerable,  and  vet 
these  were  the  remnants  only,  left  bv  a  chief  called  Pingola, 
who  came  from  the  northeast.  He  swept  across  the  whole  ter- 
ritory inhabited  by  his  cattle-loving  countrymen,  devouring 
oxen,  cows,  and  calves,  without  retaining  a  single  head.  He 
seems  to  have  been  actuated  by  a  simple  love,1  of  conquest,  and 
is  an  instance  of  what  has  occurred  two  or  three  times  in  cverv 
century  in  this  countrv  from  time  immemorial.  A  man  of  more 
energy  or  ambition  than  his  fellows  rises  up  and  conquer*  a 
large  territory,  but  as  soon  as  he  dies  the  power  he  built  is  gone, 
and  his  reign,  having  been  one  of  terror,  is  not  perpetuated. 
This  and  the  want  of  literature  have  prevented  the  establish- 
ment of  anv  great  empire  in  the  interior  of  Africa.  Pingola 
effected  his  conquests  by  carrying  numbers  of  smith's  bellows 
with  him.  The  arrow-heads  were  heated  before  shooting  into 
a  town,  and  when  a  wound  was  inflicted  on  either  man  or  beast 
great  confusion  ensued.  After  Pingola  came  Sebituane,  and 
after  him  the  Matebele  of  Mosilikatse;  and  these  successive  in- 
roads have  reduced  the  Hatoka  to  a  state  in  which  they  naturally 
rejoice  at  the  prospect  of  deliverance  and  peace. 

Thev  were  remarkably  generous  with  their  oilers  of  food,  and 
great  numbers  came  out  continually  to  greet  the  "  white  man." 
It  could  only  be  painful  to  a  man  more  anxious  to  benefit  his 
kind  than  to  witness  their  follies,  to  see  so  many  human  beings 
exhibiting  even  in  their  salutations  their  extreme  degradation. 
Few  customs  of  men  are  more  arbitrary  than  thoM.-  which  relate 
to  the  reception  of  visitors,  but  of  all  hardlv  anything  can  .-ur- 
pass  in  absurdity  that  of  this  tribe.  They  throw  themselves  on 
the  ground,  on  their  backs,  and,  rolling  from  side  to  side,  slap 
the  outside  of  their  thighs  as  expressions  of  thankfulness  and 
welcome,  uttering  the  words,  "  kina  bomba."  And  the  mure 
Dr.  Livingstone  attempted  to  prevent  them,  the  more  violeiitlv 
thev  did  him  their  eccentric  reverence.  Tlii>  performance  on 
the  part  of  men  totallv  unclothed  was  a  scene  too  painfully  un- 
manly  for  amu.-ement,  rather  one  to  provoke  the  deepe/t  sorrow. 


1*1)  I.IV1NCSTONES    COURAGE    TESTED. 

Livingstone  give*  an  account  of  hi-  cntcrtahuncnt  at  the  first 
of  tiux-  bonier  village.-,  which  on^ht  t<i  have  a  place  here  in 
hi-  own  language,  as  it  illustrate.-  -ome  of  the  trials  \\hich  his 
own  courage  had  to  endure,  a-  well  a-  manner-  of  the  country  : 

"  ( )n  the  tth  w»-  reaehcd  their  tir-t  village.  Remaining  at 
a  di-tanee  of  a  tjtr.irter  of'  a  mile,  we  -ent  two  men  to  inform 
tin  in  who  we  were,  and  that  our  pnrpo-e-  were  jHtui'ful.  The 
head  man  earn;-  and  sjMikr  eivillv,  luit,  when  nearly  dark,  tlie 
peojile  of  another  village  arrived  an<l  IM  haved  verv  differently. 
Thev  l»cgan  liv  trvin^  to  -pear  a  VOIMIL:  man  \\h<>  had  gone  for 
water.  Then  tliev  approached  u-,  and  one  eanie  forward  howl- 
ing at  the  top  of  hi-  voice  in  the  ino-t  hidcon-  manner;  hi-  eves 
were  -hot  out,  his  lips  eovered  with  foam,  and  everv  inn-ele  of 
hi-  frame  tpiivered.  He  »-nne  near  to  me,  and,  having  a  .-mall 
l>:\ttle-a\e  in  hi-  hand,  alarmed  mv  men  le-t  he  miu'ht  do  \-ioleint1 ; 
1'iit  they  wen-  afraid  to  di-olw-v  mv  previon-  ordei--.  and  to  f',,1- 
low  their  o\\'n  ilielination  hv  kno<-king  him  on  the  head.  1  felt 
a  little  alarmed  too,  luit  would  not  -how  fear  1/efoiv  mv  own 
people  or  -tranter-,  and  kept  a  ,-harj»  look-out  on  the  little  l>at tie- 
axe.  It  -eeiued  to  nieaea-e  of  n-sta-v  or  prophotir  fl'-n/v, 
voluntarily  prtxliici-d.  I  felt  it  would  hf  a  sorrv  wav  to  leave 
the  world  to  ur''l  mv  head  chopped  hv  a  mad  -ava-je,  though 
that,  perhap-,  would  l>e  pret'eraltle  to  hvdrophohia  or  delirium 
trenieii-.  Sekwehn  took  a  -j>ear  in  hi-  hand  a-  it  to  pieive  a  l>it 
of  leather,  luit  in  r--alit\'  to  plunge  it  into  tho  man  it'  he  offered 

violeliee    (o    Jne.         After      IllV    eolllM^e    liad    l)ee||    ~ll  Hi'  'iel  1 1  !v    te-ted, 

I  heek<iiied  with  the  head  to  the  eiyil  head  man  to  reinoye  him, 
and  he  did  ~o  iiv  drawing  him  a-ide.  I  ht^  man  ju'etended  not 
to  know  what  he  wa-  doinir.  I  would  fain  have  till  hi-  pnl-c 
to  a-eertain  \\heth' r  the  yjolent  tr-  inMiirj  \\  •  re  MO!  t'ei^ned,  luit 
had  not  much  inclination  to  ^o  near  the  haltlr-axc  a;r<*m>.  'I  here 

\\:i-,    however,   a     flow   of'    pl'l'-pinit  ioll,    and      tin'     e\e|tenie|||     eo||- 

tin'i'd  t'u!l\  h.ul'a:i  li"!ir.  I  h<  n  ur'"idnall\  e.  a-,  d.  'I  hi-  par>'\\  -in 
i-  lie-  dir-'-'i  >  ijip-i-iic  of  h\-pn-'ti-m.  and  it  i-  -iirjular  that  it 
ha-  ii"!  l"'-n  tri'-d  in  Kurope  a-  \\-ll  a-  elairvovaner.  I  his 
h'-e.  ,nd  l«at'-h  "f  \  i  ilor-  t-">k  no  pain-  to  ei.nei-al  th«  ir  eontempt 
t'«r  our  -mail  )•  art  '•  ,  -:r.  iir_r  I"  <  a<-h  ot  !n-r.  in  a  ton.  . .('  triumph, 
1  lii'-vaie  ijuite  a  Lr"d-end  !  '  l;!«  ra!!\  ,  '  '  i' "  1  ha-  apportioned 
th'-m  to  u-.'  '  Th'-v  are  l-.-t  atnotij;  tin1  tril'e-!'  ' 'l'he\-  have 


AN    INCIDENT.  J.sJ 

wandered  in  order  to  be  destroyed,  and  what  can  they  do  with- 
out  shields  among  so  many'.''  Some  of  them  asked  ii'  then- 
were  no  other  parties.  Sekeletu  had  ordered  my  men  not  to 
take  their  shields,  a.s  in  the  ease  of  my  first  company.  We  wen- 
looked  upon  as  unarmed,  and  an  easy  prey." 

It  is  impossible  but  to  admire  the  deliberate  courage  of  Dr. 
Livingstone  under  such  circumstances.  It  was  the  same  singular 
disregard  of  danger  which  sud'cred  him  to  giveaway  at  Linyanti 
all  but  five  of  the  guns  which  he  had  purchased  in  Loanda.  ami 
undertake  a  new  journey  with  onlv  five,  which  enabled  him  to 
sit  so  quietly  defiant  when  he  might  reallv  have  Keen  an  ea-v 
prey  to  their  barbarity.  The  policy  of  travelling  comparatively 
unarmed  through  the  eountrv  mav  have  been  wise  enough,  but 
it  was  a  piece  of  policy  which  required  more  nerve  than  the 
average  man  possesses.  It  was  a  great  consolation  to  Dr.  Liv- 
ingstone in  thinking  of  this  deeply  degraded  tribe  to  recall 
the  blessed  results  of  missionary  work  among  the  people  of 
Kuruman,  who  were  quite  as  depraved  and  degraded  as  the 
Batoka.  We  should  not  forget  the  wonderful  power  of  the  gos- 
pel, when  we  question  the  probabilities  of  the  ultimate  conver- 
sion and  elevation  of  even  the  most  barbarous  people.  There 
is  power  in  that  precious  word  to  melt  the  hardest  heart.  And 
there  is  light  enough  there  to  drive  awav  the  <rluom  from  the 

x-  *  o 

most  benighted  intellect. 

Another  incident  which  occurred  in  this  country  illustrates 
the  power  of  a  white  face  over  these  people,  although  they  had 
never  before  seen  such  a  being. 

As  Livingstone  and  his  party  were  approaching  a  village, 
about  evening,  they  met  a  man  running  to  them,  bound  lirmlv 
with  cords,  entreating  to  be  released.  lie  proved  to  be  a  mail 
from  a  neighboring  tribe  who  had  made  a  home  in  the  village, 
and  had,  without  any  show  of  excuse,  threatened  the  chief  man's 
life,  and  he  was  about  paving  his  own  lor  the  privilege  of  the 
speech.  Livingstone  immediately  took  the  ea-e  in  hand,  though 
an  absolute  stringer,  and,  having  bound  the  t^uiltv  man  to  do 
no  violence,  leased  him.  There  was  no  complaint  on  the 
part  of  the  .ithorities  of  the  town.  His  interference  .-eenu;d 
to  pass  'is  .  matter  of  course.  The  awe  which  is  inspired  in 
these  savages  bv  a  white  face  is  to  be  noticed  as  quite  an  otlset 


1^2  THE    LOWER    ORDERS. 

to  the  otherwiK-  perilous  uudcrtaking  of  missionary  work  in 
Afri.-a. 

IJoth  the  condition  of  the  IMM»J»I«-  ami  the  character  of  the 
countrv  impressed  I>r.  Livingstone  as  ofl'ering  jxt-nliar  eneour- 
a^einent.-  for  tin-  establishment  of  a  mi— i»u  in  this  region. 
The  jN-ople,  though  ignorant  ami  <li-pr.iv.il,  would  turn  readily 
to  the  -vtnpathiis  ami  consolations  of  Christian  laborers  ami 
their  iiM-s>agi'.  Ami  tin-  countrv,  with  its  -plendid  climate  ami 
a -oil  which  yield1*  the  most  de-iral>le  articles  \s ith  lightest  labor, 
i-  unsurpassed  in  its  oilers  of  plentv  and  comfort.  Hut  he  who 
undertakes  tin-  duties  of  a  mi-.-ionarv  ainon^  such  a  people 
ruu-t  cxjM-ct  to  aeeoinplish  tht-ir  eiili^htcnincnt  v«-rv  graduallv, 
and  rememU'r  that  In-  will  have  no  >pc<-ial  iiiilueiui1  simply 
U-caii-c  "{'  Iwin^  a  "Christian  teacher,"  for  the-''  people  know 
nothing  of  Christianitv.  Thev  inu-t  !»•  made  to  p-pect  his 
>ii|M-rio|-  virtue  and  '•trength  ot'  ehanietrr,  and  to  think  of  him 
as  their  friend  ;  then  tliev  will  Jlillow  him  n-adilv. 

Knjoying  the  ahundant  ho<|»itality  of  the-e  po..r  jteople  and 
the  liraeiti'j  ••H'ei-ts  of  the  1  H -au t i i'l 1 1  seeiierv  and  -alultriou-. 
climatf,  I  >r.  Living-tone  had  time  to  notice  a  mimlxT  <>f  curious 
and  interesting  individuals  ot'  the  lower  order. 

It  w;v-  interesting  to  oli-erve  the  >airaeitv  of'  the  herds  which 
were  ('-•••din^r  aloir^  the  plains  jn  the  -.-lection  ot'  their  leader. 
'I  In-  l.:id>-r  of  a  herd  i-  a  verv  important  memlter;  the  entire 
bodv  -eein  to  put  th.-ir  live-  in  the  care  of  the  leader.  It  is 
tie  dutv  of  that  dignitarv  to  eatch  the  tamte-t  M-mhlance  ot' 
i.ang'T,  and  all  hi-  followers  repo-e  implicit  confidence  in  ehoiee 
of  path-  he  niav  take  Jor  lli'_rlit,  and  follow  in  hi-  or  h.  r  tracks 
with  reekle-.-  impel  uo-itv.  <  )f  coiir-e  it  i-  important  that  the 
ii'.o-t  \\arv  animal  in  the  herd  I"-  -el.-.-ted  \\,r  the  leader-hip; 
and  the  dutv  not  unlrcouentlv  devol\-e-  on  the  nio~t  timid.  No 
l_'p-:iter  '-ilamitv  can  In-faM  a  h.  rd  than  to  ha\  e  a  leader  killed. 
'1  he  whole  ma.-*  i-  immediafelv  thrown  into  eont'n-ion  ;  one  af- 
f.-mp'-  to  f.llow  another;  th--v  invarialilv  I'.-.-  much  preeioin 
tun^,  oiilv  to  *eainj)ef  a'.vav  e;i.-h  tor  it-. -If  in  nn.  r  i"  ipl.  \itv 
•  n<l  e..n-tern:it  ion.  I'rovidefice  h:i-  kindlv  t'nrni-hed  -ome  of 
the  larger  aninrd-  with  little  \vin  ;--d  -enfin,-!,.  \\  h»-e  dntv  it  M 
to  e:njtion  th'-m  o{'  approaching  d.-ui/er.  It  i-  no  nn, •onnnon 
'.hi;i'  to  -.-e  :i  hu_"-  htitl'alo  da.-hiii'_r  alon  j-  \\  it  h  hi-  little  i'.  athepil 


80U>IKK   ANTS.  183 

friend,  like  a  guardian  spirit,  sitting  on  his  wiiners,  or  flving 
gently  on  just  over  the  object  of  its  care.  When  tin-  buffalo  is 
quietly  feeding,  this  bird  may  be  seen  hopping  on  tin,-  Around 
picking  up  food,  or  sitting  on  its  hack  ridding  it  of  the  inscx-ts 
with  which  their  skins  are  sometimes  infested.  The  sight  of 
the  bird  being  much  more  aente  than  that  of  the  huilido,  it  is 
soon  alarmed  by  the  approach  of  any  danger,  and,  living  up,  the 
hu  Haloes  instantly  raise  their  heads  to  discover  the  cause  which 
has  led  to  the  sudden  flight  of  their  guardian.  Thev  sometimes 
accompany  the  buffaloes  in  their  flight  on  the  wing,  at  other 
times  they  sit  as  above  described. 

Another  African  bird,  namely,  the  Rnphayd  J/V/m//a,  at- 
tends the  rhinoceros  for  u  similar  purpose.  It  is  called  •'  kala'' 
in  the  language  of  the  Bechuanas.  When  these  people  wish  to 
express  their  dependence  upon  another,  they  address  him  as* 
u  my  rhinoceros,"  as  if  they  were  the  birds.  The  satellites  of 
a  chief  go  by  the  same  name.  This  bird  cannot  be  said  to  de- 
pend entirely  on  the  insects  on  that  animal,  for  its  hard,  hair- 
less skin  is  a  protection  against  all  except  a  few  spotted  ticks; 
but  it  seems  to  be  attached  to  the  beast,  somewhat  as  the  domestic 
dog  is  to  man  ;  and  while  the  buffalo  is  alarmed  by  the  sudden 
flying  up  of  its  sentinel,  the  rhinoceros,  not  having  keen  sight, 
but  an  acute  ear,  is  warned  bv  the  cry  of  it*  associate,  the  7>>/y>- 
lutya  Afrieana.  The  rhinoceros  feeds  bv  night,  and  its  sentinel 
is  frequently  heard  in  the  morning  uttering  its  well-known  call, 
as  it  searches  for  its  bulkv  companion. 

But  many  of  the  most  wonderful  objects  in  the  world  arc  the 
most  minute,  and  the  soldier  ants  which  were  observed  plving 
their  singular  industry  and  carrying  on  their  depredations  are 
certainly  inferior  onlv  in  si/e  to  the  more  notorious  mongers  of 
the  continent.  These1  pigmean  marauders  have  the  true  African 
color,  and  when  on  the  line  of  march  generally  go  three  abreast. 
Thev  are  probably  half  an  inch  in  length,  and  possess  wonder- 
ful strength  and  ener^v  for  their  si/e.  Thev  u-nallv  follow  a 
few  leaders,  who  arc  untrammelled  by  any  burden  and  furnished 
with  an  extraordinarv  quantity  of  the  peculiar  poison  in  which 
their  special  power  lies.  Like  the  red  ants  mentioned  a-  being 
seen  in  the  western  part  of  the  continent,  these  are  -jenerallv 
found  advancing  in  a  straight  line.  ''  If  a  handful  of  earth  is 


1S4  WHITK    ANTS. 

thrown  oji  the  jnith  at  the  middle  of  the  regiment,  either  on  its 
way  home  or  ;il>r»;i(l,  tho^c  UOiind  it  an-  completely  at  a  loss  as 
to  their  farther  pro^n-^-.  Whatever  it  m.iv  U>  that  piide> 
them,  they  -eem  only  to  know  that  thev  an-  not  to  return,  for 
they  eoine  up  to  the  hand  fill  of  earth  but  will  not  ero-s  it,  thoujjh 
not  a  charter  of  an  inch  hi^h.  Tin  v  wheel  round  and  regain 
their  path  a^ain,  \  ill  never  think  of  rvtreutiu^  to  the  ne^t,  or  to 
the  plaet  where  thev  have  Keen  Mealing.  After  a  tjuarter  of  an 
liour's  confusion  and  hissing,  on.-  niav  make  a  circuit  of  a  t'oot 
round  the  earth,  and  -oon  all  follow  in  that  roundalxmt  way. 
\\  hen  on  their  wav  to  attack  the  abode  of  the  white  ants  the 
latter  niav  be  ubsvrvril  ru-hiiii;  about  in  a  -tale  of  <jreat  pertur- 
bation. The  black  leader-,  di-iiirjui-hcd  from  the  rc.-t  1>\- 
their  greater  *i/e,  e-peciallv  in  the  region  of  the  stini;.  then  -ei/e 
the  white  anlj  one  l»v  one  and  inflict  a  .-tin.:,  which  .-eein-  to  in- 
ject a  portion  of  fluid  -iniilar  in  etl'cct  to  ehlorofonn,  a-  it  ren- 
ders them  in-en.-ihle  Imt  not  d"-a  1,  and  onlv  able  to  move  one 
or  two  t'ront  lej^-;.  A-  tlie  leader-  to-x  them  on  .me  >ide,  the 
rank  and  file  -ci/c  them  and  earrv  tiiem  oil'." 

Th>-  white  ant-  on  which  th'---  -aide  mon-ters  prev.  and  \\ho-e 
linv  -kidl-  are  to  !>«•  loinid  piled  alioiit  their  barrack-,  are  of 
more  apparent  -crviiv  than  their  murderers.  I*JM»IJ  such  tiny 
lalxTc;--  the  -jr. -at  Autlioi-  .  >f  all  had  devolved  the  ta-k  of  jtrc- 
n-rviir^  and  improving  the  -oil  which  the  indolent  human  in- 
liabitant-  do  not  appreciate.  '1'hev  are  appointed  to  the  her- 
culean ta-k  of  clearing  awav  and  hurviiii;  the  va-t  ipiantitie-  of 
decavni'j  ve_'eta!)le  mailer  wliieh  aliounds  in  the  va-t  \\ilder- 
ne--e-.  It  i-  wonderful  !>v  \\iiat  |ninv  a^eni-  manv  o!  the  nio-t 
eol.,--al  work-  of'  time  are  aeeompli-hed.  The  tin\'  toiler-  on 
land  and  tinv  toiler-  in  the  >ea  are  rearing  monument.-  to  in- 
du-:  rv  and  in-t  inct  \\  hich  -hani'-  l  he  boa-t  t'nl  wi-dom  and  ,-t  r.  n_rth 
"f  man.  The-,,  little  ant-  labor  loo  \\ith  much  -\--icm  and  art. 
I'hev  •_'e|1.-rallv  |i«-rt'>rm  lh.-ir  \\ork  uiihoui  coining  \\herc  thev 
niav  be  -i-en  more  ihan  the\-  are  obliged  to,  and  i!  i-  a>foni-h- 
in_'  ho'.\  rapidlv  thev  \\ork.  I  *i.  Liviirj-t«»lie  \\a-  accn-tomed 
to  -pr- ad  Lri'a--  in  considerable  ipiantitii--  under  the  mat  mi 


move    the    entire    -nppl\    during    a    -inude    da\    and    IP •••••--itad-    a 
new  bed    for    the    -e.'on.l    ni_dit.       Indeed,  \\  e  n>''d  onlv  a  fuller 


AN    KI.KPHANT    HUNT.  ]  S."> 

knowledge  of  the  world  we  live  in,  with  all  its  wonderful  sys- 
tem of  adaptations,  that  we  may  praise  (Jod  more  heartily, 
and  adore  him  more  devoutly  for  his  wisdom  and  goodness, 
and  juvter  the  keeping  of  his  love. 

As  the  journey  extended  the  country  became  more  and  more 
bountiful  and  alxmnding  in  large  game.  On  the  1  Ith  of  I)c- 
eembcr,  in  a  lovely  valley,  they  came  upon  a  buffalo,  and  while 
attempting  to  secure  him,  found  themselves  suddenly  confronted 
by  three  elephants,  one  of  which  I)r.  Livingstone  managed  to 
cripp.e  by  a  first  shot.  This  one  they  then  eas.il  v  killed.  The 
next  dav  was  distinguished  bv  a  irrand  elephant-hunt,  in  which 

•  »  «~ 

the  devoted  followers  engaged  to  "  show  their  fiither  what  sort 
of  men  he  had."  Although  scenes  of  the  kind  were  onlv  pain- 
ful to  Livingstone,  and  possessed  of  none  of  the  charm  which 
causes  the  ordinary  traveller  to  revel  in  stories  of  slaughter, 
hi?  has  still  furnished  a  thrilling  account  of  this  exploit  of  his 
men. 

lie  had  retired  from  the  noise  of  the  camp,  where  the  men 
were  cutting  up  the  elephant  which  he  had  shot  the  day  before, 
that  he  might  make  an  examination  of  some  rocks,  when  glanc- 
ing casually  across  the  valley  he  saw  a  pair  of  elephants,  a  fe- 
male and  her  calf,  quietly  enjoying  themselves  by  the  side  of  a 
little  stream,  and  beyond  them  a  long  line  of  his  men,  who 
were  manifestly  approaching  their  unsuspecting  victims  with  no 
good  intentions.  The  noble  creature,  totally  "  unconscious  of  the 
approach  of  an  cnemv,  stood  for  some  time  suckling  her  voiing 
one,  which  seemed  about  two  years  old  ;  they  then  went  into  a 
pit  containing  mud,  and  smeared  themselves  all  over  with  it, 
the  little  one  frisking  about  his  dam,  flapping  his  ears  anil 
tossing  his  trunk  incessantly,  in  elephantine  fashion.  She  kept 
flapping  her  ears  and  wagging  her  tail  as  it'  in  the  height  of 
enjovment.  Then  began  the  piping  of  her  enemies,  which  was 
performed  bv  blowing  into  a  tube,  or  the  hands  closed  together, 
as  boys  do  into  a  kev.  They  call  out  to  attract  the  animal's 
attention, 

" '  <  >  chief!  chief!  wi-  have  CM  me  tu  kill  you. 

<>  chief!  chief!  many  ni"tv  will  .lie  besides  you,'  etc. 
'  The  !,'i>»ls  have  >aM  it.'  etc.,  etc. 

Both  animals  expanded   (heir  ears  and   listened,  then  left  their 


ISC  ELEPHANT'S  CHARACTER. 

l>ath  as  the  crowd  rushed  towartl  them.  The  little  one  ran  for- 
ward toward  the  end  of  the  valley,  lint,  seeing  the  men  there, 
returned  to  his  dam.  She  placed  herself  on  the  danger  Hide  of 
her  calf,  and  pa-.-ed  her  proboscis  over  it  again  and  again,  as 
if  to  as-ure  it  of  safety.  She  frequently  looked  hack  to  the 
men,  who  kept  up  an  incessant  shouting,  singing,  and  piping; 
then  looked  at  h«T  young  one  and  ran  after  it,  sometimes  .side- 
wavs,  as  if  her  feelings  were  divided  l>etwcen  her  anxietv  to 
protect  her  offspring  and  desire  to  revenge  the  temerity  of  her 
per-ei -utor-.  The  men  kept  al*>nt  a  hundred  yards  in  her  rear, 
and  some  that  di-tanee  from  her  thinks  and  continue*!  thus 
until  .-lie  was  obliged  to  er<»>  a  rivulet.  The  time  spent  in 
descending  and  get  tint;  U|i  t  lit*  opposite  hank  allowed  of  their 
(timing  up  to  the  ed<_fe,  and  discharging  their  spears  at  about 
twentv  vards  distune*1.  After  the  first  discharge  she  appeared 
with  her  sides  red  with  blood,  and,  U-jinning  to  flee  lor  her  own 
life,  seenieil  to  think  no  mure  of  her  voting.  The  calf  S.MHI  ran 
into  a  neighboring  stream  and  was  killed.  The  dam  moved 
more  and  mop-  slowly,  and,  fmallv,  with  a  shriek  of  ra_re,  turned 
and  charged  furiously  upon  her  piir-uers.  Thc-e  charges  S!M 
rnntiniicd,  wheeling  when  -he  found  thev  had  eluded  her,  until 
idie  -nnk  do\\n  dead." 

No  animal  within  the  ratine  of  our  knowledge  more  justly 
ren-ivc-  the  attention  and  the  admiration  of'  men  than  the  ele- 
phant ;  ii"iie  betrav-  nobler  in-tinct-  and  such  remarkable 
.-aiMejtv.  Thev  have  figured  proiiiint'litly  in  the  historv  of  the 
w-irl'l  for  manv  hundred-  of  vears.  There  seem-  to  be  no  very 
^reat  dillicnltv  about  making  them  gentle  and  serviceable  when 
onei-  th'-v  have  Iwen  eajitured  ;  and  when  once  they  acknowledge 
the  aiilhoritv  of  a  man  they  be.-onie  singularly  oU-dieiii  aiifl 
d-'Vot'-d.  \\'e  remember  that  on  one  occa-ion  an  elephant, 
v.1,1,!,  h;id  been  aceii-tomi-d  to  the  aiilhoritv  ol'  hi-  ma-ter,  was 
,.,|n,,,l  iVom  hi-  allegiance  and  join. -d  hi-  iMIow-  in  their  \\ild 
lif,.  of  the  l'or.-t.  <  ^uite  a  loirj  time  after  hi-  running  a\\ay, 
th.-  ma-t.-r  wa-  out  li'intiu-  ele|,hanl-,  and  c,,miiiLr  upon  a  herd 
thon/h'  that  in  th--  niimb'-r  he  ree,.._Mii/'-<l  hi-  old  -ervant,  and 
iiniii'  -I!  i»'-lv  ad\ -anein-  to  hi-  -ide  and  caMiu-  him  by  nanie  \\  a«. 
,T-!,,,,i  !,,-,  1  to  -i-i.  tin-  I"  •"•  '-rt'iil  b.-a-t  turn  kindly  to  him  and 
submit  \\ith  the  Kt'ie-t  graci-  to  hi-  command,  -utf.'rin^  him  t<> 


DOWN    THE    I.OSITO. 


1*7 


mount  his  lurk  as  of  old  and  guide  him  with  perfect  eis  •.  The 
African  elephant  is  considered  larger  than  those  of  India  and 
those  of  the  southern  sections.  Those,  however,  on  tin-  en-fern 
ridge,  where  Dr.  Livingstone  witnessed  the  exploit  of  hi-  men, 
are  not  generally  larger  than  those;  of  India.  They  are  distin- 
guished, however,  more  clearly  from  their  Indian  con.-ins  by 
their  ears,  which  are  enormous.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  in  fhi- 
conneetion,  that  there  is  an  appreciable  diminution  in  the  -i/e 
•and  vigor  of  all  animals,  including  n  an,  in  proportion  as  food 
is  more  abundant,  and  tropical  climates  are  apparently  unfavor- 
able to  the  development  of  either  man  or  beast. 

lint  Semalembuc  is  waiting  for  our  attentions,  and  we  mu.-t 
turn  our  backs  on  the  lovely  valley  with  its  teeming  herds. 
The  way  to  the  residence  of  that  chief  lay  down  the  Losito 
and  through  the  ranges  of  hills.  The  residence  itself  was  found 
at  the  foot  of  the  range  of  hills  through  which  the  Kafue  finds 
its  passage. 


STAG    BEETT,B. 


CHAPTER    X. 

r.»i;i>KIt   TKI  I  IKS. 

The  Kafno  —  I.oniriiii;  f*r  IVuo-  Nr-Tn  W.ir-dip  I'.Tt-ijn  <i'»»K  Hart'!** 
Tr-.-i-  r-  1  iv.-  I:  iiu'1'"  ln-'!".'i--:i!  IV.  HUP-  Il.-:ilth  .1!'  I.i\  -MIL'S!'  .lit-  'It.. 
/:mi!»  -i  ii-.Mtn  Kl«-|i)i:int-  1  Itinlin..'  Still-Till.:  I'r.iin  H<  at  I  In-  Nativi-  l'«.-ii- 
liariti.s  At.-.  n<  .....  t  !>••('•.  mi'  -I  r<T-'ii-  t  .-miiitifil  I  rifii'llnif-.  .\.l\  <  -n:  t.i  .- 
\\i'h  all  l!li  |'li  nit  Nati\i-  Mi'j>i'-i"iis  I'o'ilitt'ul  <  '--n-lii''t  I'rai-i-  ari-l  Kli.-  • 
n-  s  I'-irJir/'ii'-f  KniiTi'ri»f  >;inati"ii  of  /.tiiiil»>  .VlMiiplanri-  "I  <!.•':-• 
\\.-t  i'l<  rhi)  !.:!•-  r:i  lit  y  1  'atn-in^  l'--r  <  '--rM  l.iv  in  •.•-!•  •!!-•-  l!\aiii|-l-  i'r-  \  .  .-  •  • 
ill  tin-  »  ..'m.-i!  M|»-:i'ii-'»  I'aV'.r—  >la-.'.-  I'ra-i.  A  i.liorr.  .1  A.  r  —  li.i  /.<:..•••  -i 
-  ^aii'l  !:i\.r  <  .aiiit-  l.:in-  1.!.  val.-'l  lltil-  1  1  y«  na  S.-  air-.-  i  >\  .  r'i  u.1  !. 


Si:\i.\i.i:Mr.iT.'-    vill:i^r    Lrnanl>    tin-    n:irn>\v    ^nj-^r    thi-oin-li 

\\!li<-||     ill.'     l\;it'llc     tiliil-     it-    «-r;i|ni   tV-'Ill    tllf   llill-    illt'i   lllf   X;illl- 

u-i,  in  hit.  i:i    i>'  in"  s.,  i,  ,n-.  IN    •_••_'•  i-:.    ii.-  \\.-i-  n.it 

l>«  inmi  anv  Iicuil  man  in  tin-  kiinln<--  ami  niHlinc*—  nf  \i\~-  h..~- 
|>italit\'.  Hi-  pp-rnt  <>t'  meal  ami  Lr''"'iii  hint-  \\a-  made  in  tii« 
It.-t  -tvlc  of'tln'ir  ci'imtrv,  hv  !ir-(  i  \jiri--in^  hi-  rc-rct  that  hi- 
\i-itMi--  t!iii-t  -Ic.-p  liiiii-rv,  ami  thfii  Hirpri-iiiL:  tin  in  with  hi- 
•j.  n«  -P  i-itv.  Like  all  his  m-ighlmrs  he  reccivol  the  \vunls  «>t' 
[i.-ar.-  with  -i'i  at  drli^ht.  The  life  nf  anxietv  ainl  <-<>ii-t:mt  tnr- 
ni'iil  :ilm..»t  in-ej>ara!)le  t'p>m  tin-  e\i-tenc.-  «i'  -i.  manv  little 

-  '>vep  i_Mitie-   all    epp\vil«-<l    to-ether,  i-    pai  n  t'n  1  1  v  wearvinir  ;   and 
r.-!,   j,«r>-,     j.    the    niairie    wnpl    whieh    thrill-    thi'"ii-h    all    the 
tn!i>  --\\ith  iniei|iialle«l  power.     'Ihevall  luiiij  t<>  "  //r<  ///  /»  n<->  ." 

l'!i.-  !••  •an:it':il.  li-rtile  ami  healtht'iil  hi!!-  ami  valle\-  d'  the 
Kaiii'1  partieiilarlv  have  Keen  ettnt''-t<-cl  LrP>unil,  ami  ths-  imln>- 
';•,"•!-  and  i|U!'-f  (wipiilaee  ar>-  ea-ef  to  !>«•  1.  tl  in  the  i  n;.i\  im  nl 

•  .!'  tii.-Jr  ii.-!.l>  ami  -port-.      Tin  -«•    p«-oplr  do  not   M,  ,  d  to  }„•  told 

i.}'  til''  e\i-|(  ||.'|-   o|'  the    I  ».  -it  V.    Kill    t  h-  \    eat  I'll    at     hi-  p'-prl.   \\  hi  e|| 

j'i'oini-.--  a  t!i:i<-  "t  tin  :  v.  r-al  |"ac-e  on  earth,  \silii  -ui'jnlar 
p.«-.i-:ir«  .  It  ;-  tii'-  -ani'1  \\':ii'im--  "!  anxietv.  whieh  turn-  the 
Ii.  a:  t  o)'  man  nniv-  r-aliv  to\\  ard  1  1\>-  throne  of'  (  Jud.  who  revi  al> 
i.i  (  :.n-t  i,.-  |  :  ...  !•  :;  «•  ami  ^rar--.  I  he  trillion  of  .Ie-n-, 


TKNDKNCY    Tu    \VO1W1IIP.  ]s!» 

establishing  the  soul  in  quietness,  and  filling  the  world  with 
love,  answers  the  inaudible  prayer  of  human  misery,  which 
ascends  to  God  from  every  hind,  in  every  dialeet,  expre»ed  in 
every  custom  and  condition.  How  beautiful  and  touching  is 
the  ready  yielding  of  heathen  prejudice,  to  this  heavenly  prom- 
ise! How  encouraging  it  is  to  sec;  the  eye  of  ignorance  and 
barbarity  sparkling  with  the  hope  of  Christ's  glorious  reign, 
even  before  they  know  the  Sovereign  ! 

The  characteristic  negro  tendency  to  worship  distinguishes 
the  tribes  of  the  Kafue,  and  the  national  faith  in  charms  enters 
into  all  they  do.  The  universal  fear  of  the  white  man  which 
distinguishes  the  tribes  remote  from  European  settlements  pre- 
vailed here  also  ;  and  although  it  is  the  snnnv  slope  of  the 
range  constituting  the  eastern  wall  of  the  continent,  not  even 
the  half-caste  had  ever  penetrated  so  far.  The  white  man's 
goods,  though,  had  already  found  their  way,  and  the  followers 
of  Livingstone  began  to  find  a  market  for  their  ornaments  and 
beads  in  cotton  cloth. 

The  Babisa  traders  take  the  place  of  the  Mamburi,  who  enter 
the  interior  from  the  western  coast,  and  barter  various  articles 
for  ivory  and  slaves.  Villages  almost  innumerable,  according 
to  African  custom,  are  hid  awav  among  the  hills,  who.-e  >had- 
ows  oiler  the  security  of  seclusion  to  the  trembling  people.  The 
general  conformation  and  nature  of  the  nicks  is  strikingly  like 
the  western  slope;  but  the  wonderful  valley  of  the  Quango  is 
wanting,  although  its  absence  is  fully  atoned  for  bv  the  splendid 
ranges  of  cloud-capped  mountains,  which,  in  the  eves  of  the  fol- 
lowers of  Livingstone,,  accustomed  to  no  greater  altitudes  than 
their  marvellous  ant-hills,  seemed  like  the  pillars  of  the  heavens. 
There  are  five  of  these  ranges  (jtiite  distinct  and  parallel,  and 
between  them  beautiful  hills  covered  with  trees.  ''On  the  tops 

of  these/'  savs   Livingstone,  "  we   have   beautiful   white'   ouartz 

*, 
rocks,  and  some  have  a  capping  of  dolomite.     On   the  west   of 

the  second  range  we  have  great  masse>  of  kvanite  or  disthene, 
and  on  the  flanks  of  the  third  and  fourth  a  great  deal  of  specular 
iron  ore  which  is  magnetic,  and  rounded  pieces  of  black  iron 
ore,  also  strongly  magnetic,  and  containing  a  very  lar^o  per- 
centage of  the  metal.  The  sides  of  these  ranges  are  generally 
very  precipitous,  and  there  are  rivulets  between  which  are  not 


190  KAsTKKN    U.\Xt;j> 

{HTi-niiial.  M:uiy  of  tin-  hills  have  IHVH  uu.-ed  bv  granite,  ex- 
actly like  that  of  the  Kalomo.  IHkc-  of  thi.-  granite  may  be 
been  thru-ting  tip  immen-c  ma.»c>  of  mica  schi-t  ami  quartz  or 
kaml-tone  .-ehi.-t,  ami  making  the  -trata  folil  over  them  on  each 
Mile,  :L-  clothes  hung  ujM>n  a  line. 

"  \\  hen  we  came  to  the  top  of  the  outer  range  of  the  hills  we 
had  a  u'loriou.-  view.  At  a  -hort  di-!an<v  In-low  us  we  .-aw  the 
Kafue,  wemling  away  over  a  lop-i-cla  1  plain  to  the  eonlluencc, 
ami  on  the  other  .-iile  of  the  /amli.-i,  In-vond  that,  lav  a  loim 
range  <>t'  dark  hill-.  A  line  of  tleecv  cloud-  appt-arttl  Iviim 
along  the  eour-e  ot'  that  river  at  tli--ir  lia-e.  The  plain  liel«)\\- 
U-,  at  the  Idt  of'  tin-  kafue,  had  more  lar^e  game  on  it  than 
anywln-iv  el-e  1  had  >een  in  Africa.  Hundred-  of  Initiates 
and  xehras  gra/cd  <>\\  the  open  spaces,  ami  I  here  stood  lord  I/ 
elephant-  t'et-din^  majestieallv." 

I>ut  thi-  charming  M-eni-rv  had  to  !>e  paid  for  li\"  -erioii-  toil- 
ing  and  climbing,  which  called  i'»r  the  Jlirfeit  of  >rveral  of  'l.i1 
oxen,  one  of  \\hich  wa-  a  -p- cial  Ix-aiitv  which  Sckdetu  h:i  1 
Invn  anxioii-  to  have  «li-plaved  at  the  settlement  of  the  whi  »• 
jK-oplr,  a-  it  \\a-  ornamented  alt<  r  the  mo-t  approval  fashion  »  ;' 
the  Makololo,  "  with  more  than  thirtv  piece.-  ot'  it-  own  -ki.i 
detached  and  hanging  down." 

The  animal-  abounding  in  the.-e  hill-,  however,  rendered  the 
partv  almo-t  indejM'iideiil  of  o\»  n,  a-,  being  entirely  unfamiliar 
with  Lr|in-.  the\-  moved  about  in  ea.-v  range  of  the  ball-. 

Tin  h'ulth  of  Pr.  Livin-_r-ioiie  had  continued  -ingularly 
good,  o\viii'_r  prolciblv  a-  much  !•.  hi-  greater  care  ol'  himself  a- 
to  the  greater  health  fill  lie—  of  the  loealitie-  through  which  he 
had  iia--ed.  and  he  u  a-  in  th"  -1'ii'it  to  enjov  all  that  oeeiirre«l 

|  I  .'      . 

or  wa-  to  be  -ee|i.  Ib  \\:i«  ereallv  el)e«iurage<l  in  hi-  d.--il'e  to 
rstab!i-h  a  -ration,  \\-hep-  a  mi--ion  mi-lit  Lrr«'\\  up  which  \\oiild 
act  a-  a  centre  ot'  eivi!i/atioM.  'I'h.-r.-  coiild  be  nothing  to  di  — 
coura'_re  -u«'h  an  *  n!'  i'|iri-'-  in  tin-  ma^mlicent  region. 

Ila\in.:  d'-clin.-d  the  -nioother  route  to  (he  northe;ist  liirthr 
bank-  of  tlii-  /  imb.'-i,  Li\  in_'-tone  \\a-  anvioii-  now  to  regain 
that  -tream  and  -nid-d  hi-  partv  a  little  -onthuard.  The 
coiintrv  became  i:i<.r«  and  more  thickly  planted  with  bn>nd- 
leav-d  Im-he-  a-  tlfv  approai-heii  the  river,  and  the\-  nettled 
rep.  ar-dly  to  .-hout  to  th-'  elephant.-  to  -tand  out  of  their  path. 


THE   ZAMIJKSI    AGAIN.  l!il 

The  huge  dwellers  in  these  thickets  seemed  absolutely  indiil'iT- 
ent  to  num.  A  herd  of  buffalo  eurne  uj>  and  so  interfered  with 
their  progress  by  their  euriosity,  that  one  of  them  had  to  be  *\\ol 
to  get  them  out  of  the  way,  and  a  female  elephant  da>hed 
through  the  midst  of  the  men,  followed  by  three  calves.  The 
waterfowl  in  great  numbers  hung  leisurely  on  the  air  just  over 
them.  The  abundance  of  animal  life  was  Ix-yond  anything 
ever  seen  even  in  Africa.  The  Zambesi  itself,  when  it  appeared 
again,  was  wider  and  deeper  and  more  rapid  than  they  had  left 
it  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  falls,  and  unlike  it  had  been  seen 
as  the  Lceambye,  in  the  great  valley  it  was  deeply  discolored 
by  the  washing  down  of  the  soil  from  the  surrounding  country. 
It  is  worthy  of  notice  that  no  mention  is  made  of  the  slightest 
discoloration  of  the  streams  in  Africa  between  the  two  great 
ridges  which  divide  the  eastern  and  western  coasts  from  the 
interior.  The  first  indications  of  the  washings  of  soil  in  the 
rivers,  in  the  western  journev,  were  observed  in  the  Quango. 
And  now  they  are  in  the  Zambesi  east  of  the  ridge. 

Passing  down  the  left  bank  of  the  river  there  were  quite  a 
number  of  islands  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  traveller*. 
These  islands  were  clothed  with  verdure  and  seemed  to  possess 
singular  fertility.  One  of  these  river  gems — the  island  of 
Mengo — entertains,  besides  its  human  population,  a  herd  of 
buffaloes,  which  seem  to  find  ample  pasturage  within  its  small 
circumference,  and  dispute  their  claim  quite  valiantly  with  their 
human  neighbors  when  occasion  requires.  This  herd  might 
eftsily  swim  to  the  shore  if  they  desired  to  do  so;  their  resi- 
dence on  the  "  little  foot  of  soil  "  seems  to  be  purely  a  matter  of 
choice. 

About  this  point  the  river  flows  between  the  country  of  the 
Batonga  on  the  north  and  that  of  Banyai  on  the  south  side. 
On  both  sides  are  ranges  of  hills,  and  the  multitude  of  buffa- 
loes and  elephants  furnish  unending  supplies  to  the  people. 
"They  erect  stages  on  high  trees  overhanging  the  paths  by 
which  the  elephants  come,  and  then  use  a  large  spear  with  a 
handle  nearly  as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist,  and  four  or  five  feet 
long.  When  the  animal  comes  beneath  they  throw  the  spear, 
and  if  it  enters  between  the  ribs  above,  as  the  blade  is  at  least 
twenty  inches  long  by  two  broad,  the  motion  of  the  handle,  as 
12 


NATIVE   PECULIARITIES. 

it  is  aided  by  knocking  again-t  the  trees,  makes  frightful  gashes 
within,  and  soon  causes  death.  They  kill  them  also  by  means 
«>f  a  spear  inserted  in  a  Ix-am  of  wood,  which  l>eing  susju'iidcd 
on  the  branch  of  a  tree  by  a  cord  attache*!  to  a  latch  fastened  in 
the  path,  and  intended  to  lw  struck  by  the  animal's  toot,  leads 
to  the  fall  of  the  beam,  ami,  the  -pear  (King  poisoned,  causes 
death."  Hippopotami  are  taken  in  .-ame  manner. 

The  paths  along  the  bank  were  onlv  such  a-  had  been  made 
bv  the  wild  animal.-  ;  there  were  no  road-.  lioidcs  the  ele- 
phants and  huHaloes,  which  we  have  mentioned,  there  \\eiv 
herd-  of  /ebra-,  pallah-  and  water-bucks  ;  <_ri'cat  number-  of 
wild  pi  ITS  koodoo-  and  black  antelopes. 

Tin-  partv  began  to  feel  the  oppn--ion  ot'  the  -nn  onlv  at'tcr 
entering  thc-e  lowlands,  though  there  were  rain-  everv  dav  and 
considerable  cloudiness.  The  -un  iVcijtientlv  came  out  with 
" -corehing  inteii-itv."  The  men  had  never  suffered  from  the 
heat  while  on  the  hill-. 

Living-tone  coii-idercd  it  worthy  ot'  mention  that  in  all  In- 
jotirnev  aeri>—  the  continent  he  never  met  an  tjlh'mn,  thoiiurh 

tlleV    Wel'e     reported     bv    tile     I'llft  UgUl-St1     to     be     (jllite     I)  II  lllerol  I-. 

"The  na;ivc>  in  thi-  -cetion  jire-.'iit  the  -a me  admixture  <•(' 
c.ilor,  ran:rin»  I'rom  verv  dark  to  1'njht  olive,  \\hidi  distiugui-h«Hl 
tlio-r  of  Londo.  Thev  all  have  the  thick  lip-  ami  tlat  iio-es, 
but  in-tan-'e-  of  the  uglv  negro  physiognomy  are  raivlv  to  be 
-fen.''  'I'hev  have  a  singular  fa-hion  of  marking  themselves, 
from  the  ro.it-  of  the  h;1j|-  lltl  the  fort  head  to  the  tip  ot'the  no-e, 
bv  little  rai-ed  cicatrice-  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  lenj:th. 

"The  women  here  are  in  the  habit  of  piercing  the  upper  lip, 
and  ^radiiallv  enlarging  the  orifice  until  thev  can  in-ert  a  -hell. 
The  lip  then  appear-  drawn  out  l»evond  the  perpendicular  of  the 
no-e.  and  -jive-  them  a  nio-t  ungainly  a-pect.  Sekwebu  re- 
inarl-.e.l.  ' 'I'he-e  women  want  to  make  their  month-  like  those 
of  duck-;'  and,  indeed,  it  doe-  appear  a-  if  tln-v  had  the  idea 
that  f'-ma!e  1,-mitv  of  lip  had  been  attaine.1  hv  the  O/-/////,,//7/ nn- 
''/<»/.<  y;','/v/</'/./-»/>  alone.  'I  hi-  en-torn  prevail-  throughout  the 
c.iimtrv  ot'  (!..-  Maravi,  and  no  one  could  -ei-  it  without  conte-- 
-in_'  that  l;i-hi"n  had  never  led  W'«meii  to  a  freak  more  mad." 

'I  he'-.-  i-  a  remarkable  ab-enci1  of  deformities.  There  i-  a 
hoiT'.r  ..)'  e\-.-r\  thin^  \\hich  i-  out  »l  the  apparent  order  ot'  na- 


CONTINUKI)    FKIK.VW.INK.SS.  \\fi 

hire?  in  very  many  of  the  tribes.  To  this  is  probably  attributa- 
ble the  fact  that  Livingstone  found  no  albinos.  Tln-v  an-  w; 
disliked  that  it  is  not  uncommon  to  put  the  infants  to  death. 
Parents  kill  their  own  children  who  are  so  unfortunate  as  to 
possess  a  white  face.  The  general  absence  of  deformed  person* 
is  partly  owing  to  their  destruction  in  infancy,  and  partly  to  thr 
mode  of  life  being  a  natural  one,  so  far  as  ventilation  and  fond 
are  concerned.  They  use  but  few  unwholesome  mixtures  as 
condiments,  and,  though  their  undress  exposes  them  to  the  vicissi- 
tudes of  the  temperature,  it  does  not  harbor  vomitcs.  It  was 
observed  that  when  small-pox  and  measles  visited  the  country 
they  were  most  severe  on  the  half-castes  who  were  clothed.  In 
several  tribes,  a  child  which  is  said  to  '*  tlola,"  transgress,  is  put, 
to  death.  "TIolo,"  or  transgression,  i-  ascribed  to  several  curious 
cases.  A  child  who  cut  the  upper  front  teeth  before  the  under 
was  always  put  to  death  among  the  Hakaa,  and,  I  believe,  also 
among  the  Bakwains.  In  some  tribe-*,  a  case  of  twins  renders 
one  of  them  liable  to  death  ;  and  an  ox  which,  while  lying  in 
the  pen,  beats  the  ground  with  its  tail,  is  treated  in  the  same 
way.  It  is  thought  to  be  calling  death  to  vi^it  the  tribe.  When 
Livingstone  was  coming  through  Londa,  his  men  carried  a  great 
number  of  fowls,  of  a  larger  breed  than  any  thev  had  at  home. 
If  one  crowed  before  midnight  it  had  been  guilty  of  "tlolo," 
and  was  killed.  The  men  often  carried  them  sitting  on  their 
guns,  and  if  one  began  to  crow  in  a  forest  the  owner  would  <rive 
it  a  beating,  by  way  of  teaching  it  not  to  be  guilty  of  crowing 
at  unseasonable  hours. 

The  friendliness  of  the  tribes  had  continued  so  marked,  that 
Livingstone  was  cherishing  the  hope  that  he  would  find  none 
of  the  painful  experiences  which  made  the  approach  to  the  An- 
gola borders  the  bitterest  part  of  his  former  journey.  It  was, 
therefore,  as  surprising  as  vexatious  to  find  the  town  of  Selole  in 
great  excitement,  and  to  be  told  that  he  and  his  party  were  re- 
garded as  enemies,  and,  to  that,  Selole  had  already  sent  a  mes- 
senger to  the  Mbnrnma  to  raise  that  tribe  against  them.  These 
warlike  preparations,  however,  had  grown  out  of  a  misunder- 
standing of  the  nature  of  Livingstone's  expedition  and  were  easily 
quelled  by  the  true*  representations.  There  had  been  an  Italian 
in  the  country,  who  entered  making  the  best  promises,  but  who. 


I<K;  AI>YKXTUKK    WITH    AN    KI.KPHANT. 

when  tlic  occasion  allowed,  fell  HJMIH  the  islands  and  took  a\rav 
manv  of  tin-  people  and  large  quantities  of  ivory.  Selole  had 
a--o«-iatcd  Livingstone  witli  that  man,  \vlio  having  been  killed 
some  time  Ix-fore,  lie  was  represented  a-  having  "  risen  from  the 
dead." 

An  adventure  with  an  elephant,  which  occurred  just  after 
parting  with  S-lole,  throws  some  li^ht  mi  tin-  singular  tenacity 
with  which  that  animal  clini^-  to  life,  and  tnav  -ervc  the  would- 
be-hunters  a  good  turn.  They  had  conic  in  -i-ht  of  a  troop  of 
elephants  ;  it  is  astonishing  how  nunierou-  il !»•-<•  troops  are  some- 
tinie~  ;  1  >r.  liarth  once  counted  over  ninety  in  a  herd.  The 
men  «>f  Livingstone,  on  the  o*-c;i>ion  mentioned,  -<-t  out  to  set-lire 
some  meat  ;  a.*  "  thev  drew  near,"  -av-  the  a  •'•"tint,  "the  troop 
Ix'-j-an  to  run;  one  of  them  fell  into  a  hole,  and  hclorc  he  could 
extricate  himself  an  opj>ortunitv  was  afforded  for  all  the  men 
to  throw  their  ~j>ear-.  Wljen  he  n»<e  he  wa-  like  a  lni'^e  jioreu- 
pine.  tor  each  of  the  seventy  or  eighty  men  had  discharged  more 
than  one  spear  at  him.  A^  thev  had  no  more,  thev  vent  for  me 
to  tini-h  him.  In  order  to  put  him  at  once  out  of  pain,  I  went 
to  within  twenty  yards,  then1  Itein^  a  bank  Ix.-tween  us  which  In- 
could  not  readilv  cliinh.  I  r'-~te«l  the  gun  on  an  ant-hill  -o  a-i 
to  tak«'  .-t'-ady  aim  ;  l>ut,  though  I  tire<l  twelve  two-ounce  hullct.-, 
all  I  had,  into  ditVerent  part-.  I  could  not  kill  him.  As  it  \\a- 
Ix-cutiiing  dark.  I  advi-ed  mv  men  to  let  him  stand,  being  sure 
of  tindin_r  him  dead  in  the  morning;  hut,  though  we  searched 
all  the  ne\t  dav,  and  went  more  than  ten  miles,  we  never  -aw 
Lini  ajain.  I  mention  tin-  to  young  men  who  mav  think  that 
th'-v  \\ill  Ite  al)le  to  limit  elephant-  on  loot  l>v  adopting  tin- 
('evlon  practice  of  killing  them  hy  one  hall  in  the  hniin.  I  l»e- 

lieve  that  iii    Afriea  the  pi'aetii t'  standing  In-fore  an  elephant, 

expeetin^  to  kill  him  with  one  -hot,  would  lie  certain  death  to 
tip-  hunter;  and  I  would  add,  lor  tin-  inlonnation  of  tlio-e  who 
mav  think  that  Ix-cau-e  I  ni'-t  with  a  ^r<-:\l  abundance  of  garni* 
h'-r-  th"\-  al-o  iiii'_'ht  find  rare  -port,  that  the  t-et-e  e\i-t-  all 
a!"!i_r  lioth  liank-  of  the  /•mil)e-i,  and  tip-re  can  !»•  n->  hunting 
Ir,  in- an-  o|' hoi-----.  Hunting  on  foot  in  thi-  climate  i-  -ueh  e\- 
ri--ive]v  hard  v.-ork.  that  I  f'-e]  certain  the  |\ecnc-t  -port-man 
would  verv  -'ion  tuin  a\\'av  from  it  in  di-^u-t.  I  mv-elf  \\-;u-* 
rather  glad,  wh'ii  furnished  with  the  e.vu-e  that  I  had  no  longer 


SUSPICIOUS   CONDUCT.  lf»7 

any  balls,  to  hand  over  all  the  hunting  to  my  men,  who  had  no 
more  love  for  the  sjx>rt  than  myself,  as  they  never  engaged  in 
it  except  when  forced  by  hunger." 

Though  the  explanation  of  Livingstone  seemed  to  be  received 
as  true,  it  did  not  inspire  full  confidence,  as  could  be  clearly 
teen  in  the  absence  of  Mburuma  himself,  and  the  care  which  his 
jKMtple  were  at  to  keep  always  in  large  bodies  and  thoroughly 


The  greatest  anxiety  which  Livingstone  had  was  to  pass  these 
people  so  quietly  and  peaceably  that  thev  would  welcome  him 
should  he  return,  as  he  expected  to  do.  These  ]>eople  of  M  bu- 
rn nu;  were,  however,  manifestly  so  treacherous  that  the  greatest 
caution  was  needed  to  avoid  a  collision  with  them  ;  and  Dr. 
Livingstone  found  that  the  experience  he  had  gained  was  of 
considerable  value.  They  were  clearly  disposed  to  improve  the 
slightest  chance*  to  plunder  or  destroy  the  whole  party.  The 
trying  character  of  the  situation  may  be  seen  in  the  account 
which  Dr.  Livingstone  himself  gives  ;  savs  he: 

"  Mburuma  sent  two  men  as  guides  to  the  Loangwa.  These 
men  tried  to  bring  us  to  a  stand,  at  a  distance  of  about  six  miles 
from  the  village,  by  the  notice,  '  Mburuma  says  you  are  to  sleep 
under  that  tree.'  On  declining  to  do  this,  we  were  told  that  we 
must  wait  at  a  certain  village  for  a  supply  of  corn.  As  none 
appeared  in  an  hour,  I  proceeded  on  the  march.  It  is  not  quite 
certain  that  their  intentions  were  hostile,  but  this  seemed  to  dis- 
arrange their  plans,  and  one  of  them  was  soon  observed  running 
back  to  Mburuma.  They  had  first  of  all  tried  to  separate  our 
party  by  volunteering  the  loan  of  a  canoe  to  convey  Sekwelm 
and  me,  together  with  our  luggage,  by  way  of  the  river,  and.  as 
it  was  pressed  upon  us,  I  thought  that  this  was  their  design. 
The  next  attempt  was  to  detain  us  in  the  pass  ;  but,  betraying 
no  suspicion,  we  civillv  declined  to  place  ourselves  in  their  power 
in  an  unfavorable  position.  We  afterward  heard  that  a  party 
of  Babisa  traders,  who  came  from  the  northeast,  bringing  Eng- 
lish goods  from  Mozambique,  had  been  plundered  by  this  same 
people." 

Although  the  partv  reached  the  confluence  of  the  Loangwa 
without  greater  trouble  than  the  manifestly  wicked  designs  of 
Minimum's  people,  Livingstone  felt  by  no  means  confident  that 


1«JS  IMNUEK    AND    DKI.I VKUAXCE. 

they  would  pass  in  safety.  Hi-  could  only  obtain  the  use  of 
t\v«>  cant*-*  ior  the  purpose  of  en^-ing  tin-  stream,  :nul  it  seenu>d 
that  tin-  Mbunuaa  \voukl  at  last  accomplish  his  object  anil  got 
the  party  divided,  lit-  confesses  that  In-  t!-lt  some  turmoil  of 
spirit  in  the  evening  at  the  pro-jxvt  of  having  all  his  eflbrts 
for  the  welfare  of  this  great  region  and  it.-  teeming  jxjpulation 
knocked  on  the  head  by  savage-  to-morrow,  who  might  IK-  siid 
to  "know  not  what  they  do."  It  -<-cined  -uch  a  pity  that  the 
imjM>rtant  faet  of  the  existence  of  the  two  healths'  ridges  whirJi 
he  had  discovered  should  not  lxxt>inc  known  in  Christendom, 
for  a  confirmation  would  therehv  have  IKVII  given  to  the  idea 
that  Africa  is  not  open  to  the  go-pel.  But  he  read  that  .Tesiw 
.-aid,  ''All  jtower  i-  given  unto  me  in  heaven  and  on  earth;  go 

ye,  therefore,  and   teach  till    nations and  lo.  /  <mi  irilh 

I/mi  n/irnt/,  nv/i  unto  th<  t  ml  «\  th<  trur/il."  He  took  thi~  as  his 
word  ol'  honor,  and  then  went  out  to  take  observations  tor  lati- 
tude and  longitude,  which  he  estimated,  from  the  ruin-  of  a 
stone  eh  u  rcn  which  he  found  ju.-t  at  the  confluence  of  the  I  .<  .aii^wa 
with  the  /;iml»e-i,  and  found  to  b<- :  latitude,  \~>  .'57'  '-'!"  >., 

longitude,  :;u    :;-j'  I-;. 

\\  hen  the  morning  came  there  were  numlx-rs  of  men  armed, 
who  -t'>od  hv  while  the  'jood-  and  load  after  load  of  the  men 
w.-re  Keing  -eiit  a^To--.  I  ,i  \- i  i i_;-t one  h i  m-el  1'  \\  a-  let't  to  the  la-t 
hoat,  hut,  concealing  whatever  tear  he  mav  have  felt,  h.-  Ke- 
guiled  the  time  plea-aiitlv  exhihiting  variou-<  artido  to  h;-  -up- 
p<i-.-(l  eiii-mie-  a<  plea-antlv  a.-  he  could  have  done  to  hi- own 
Makololo,  and,  finallv,  when  hi-  time  came  to  enter  the  Ix.at, 
h>'  "  thanked  them  for  their  kindm---,"  and,  wi.-hing  them  peaee, 
pa--fl  over  linmole.-led,  t'-elin^  in  hi-  heart  exci-ediliglv  grati- 
ti'-'l  to  (i.nl  I'.r  pre-erving  him  and  pn>erving  pi-ace,  which  he 
loir_r'  d  to  l),-tow  on  Alri<-a. 

The  partv  were  ii"\\  .  uterine  \\\<-  ont.-kirt-  of  I'.-rtu.Mie-e  en- 
t'-rpri-f,  ••xteiiilin^  from  th'ir  eolnnv  on  the  ea-t  e"a-t.  '1  In: 
'atii"  indi'-atioii-  of  a  mi-taken  poliev  \\hieh  \\  <  re  -o  ahuiidaut 
i;i  An_'"!a  wi-re  1"  !>'•  -een  here  al-o,  and  In  P  .  a-*  there,  they 
ha-,--  1"  <  n  rath'  r  t  In-  ••m-mi--.-  than  the  ln-lp.-r-  of  tin-  natives  at 
t  !i<-  jniM-tioii  of  th'-  Loaiig\\a  and  /aml»<  -i.  'I  h-  t"',\  n  o)  /umlxi 
r-on'aiii-  a  num!»  i'  "!  ruin-  of  -tone  lioii-e-.  "  I  IH-V  :t!!  taceil 
th>  rivr.  and  \\  •  i  <  hi^h  enough  up  the  Hank-  ol'th'  i-.i1  .Nk.t/- 


RUINS    OF    /I'M  150.  1'J'J 

an/we  to  command  a  pleasant  view  of  tin:  l)ro:i<l  Zambesi. 
These  establishments  had  all  been  built  on  one  plan— u  hoti.-e 

0:1  one  side  of  a  large  court,  surrounded  by  :i  wall  ;  both  hou-es 
and  walls  hatl  been  built  of  soft  gray  sandstone  cemented  to- 
gether with  mini.  The  work  had  been  performed  by  .-laves 
ignorant  of  building,  for  the  stones  were  not  often  plaeed  -o  a* 
to  cover  the  seams  below.  Hence  von  frequently  find  the.  join- 
ings forming  one  seam  from  tlic  top  to  the  bottom.  Much  mortar 
or  clav  had  been  used  to  cover  defects,  and  now  trees  of  the  fi_r 
family  grow  upon  the  walls  and  clasp  them  with  their  root-. 
When  the  clav  is  moistened,  masses  of  the  walls  come  down  by 
wholesale.  Some  of  the  rafters  and  beams  had  fallen  in,  but  were 
entire,  and  there  were  some  trees  in  the  middle  of  the  houses  as 
large  a.s  a  man's  bodv.  On  the  opposite  or  south  bank  of  the 
Xambesi  we  saw  the  remains  of  a  wall  on  a  height  which  was 
probably  a  fort,  and  the  church  stood  at  a  central  point,  formed 
bv  the  right  bank  of  the  Loangwa  and  the  left  of  the  /ambe.-i. 

"  The  situation  of  Zumbo  was  admirably  well  chosen  as  a  site 
for  eommeree.  Looking  backward  we  see  a  mass  of  high,  dark 
mou.itains,  covered  with  trees;  behind  tis  rises  the  fine  high  hill 
Ma/an/we,  which  stretches  away  northward  along  the  left  bank 
of  the  Loangwa  ;  to  the  southeast  lies  an  open  countrv,  with  a 
small  round  hill  in  the  distance  called  Tofulo.  The  merchants, 
as  they  sat  beneath  the  verandahs  in  front  of  their  houses,  had 
a  magnificent  view  of  the  two  rivers  at  their  confluence;  of  their 
church  at  the  angle;  and  of  all  the  gardens  which  they  had  on 
both  sides  of  the  rivers/' 

But  here,  as  in  Angola,  the  churches  have  exerted  but  trifling 
influence;  the  people  have  not  been  turned  from  their  supersti- 
tions ;  and  the  poorly-paid  officials  having  beeome  merchants 
from  necessity,  and  allowed  their  neees-itv  to  become  avarice, 
trade  nearlv  altogether  in  slave- ai:d  ivorv.  Livingstone  >oon 
found  that  he  had  encountered  the  annovance  and  danger  of 
passing  through  the  midst  of  people  who  had  been  lor  two  vcars 
in  war  with  the  white  settlers.  B«'ing  on  the  north  -ide  ot'  the 
river  and  without  mean-  of  crossing,  he  was  forceil  to  expo-** 
himself'  on  the  savage  side,  while  on  the  south  side  he  would 
have  been  under  the  authority  of'  the  Portuguese.  lie  had, 
however,  no  disposition  to  take  sides  in  such  a  quarrel,  and 


DANCING    FOIl    CORN. 


moved  along  leisurvlv.  although  he  was  cautioned  that  XjH'iide 
had  determined  to  allow  no  white  man  to  p:iss  through  hid 
territory. 

The  animal  life  aloiij;  the  river  continued  abundant,  and 
while  pa— ing  alon-j  among  the  tree-,  not  tar  1'rom  Xnmbo,  three 
bntlaloo,  which  had  IKH-IJ  pa-,.-ed  without  l>eing  oliservvd,  di.s- 
•overing  their  proximity,  Ini-uine  alarmed  and  dashed  through 
the  eompanv  furiously.  The  o\  on  which  Living-tone  was 
mounted  rn-hed  oil'  at  a  -wift  gallop,  and  when  he  .-iicceeded 
in  turning  him  hack  he  .-aw  that  one  of  hi-  men  had  enjoyed  a 
very  unexpected  a-rial  tour.  A  bnllalo  had  pa-.-ed  -o  near  him 
that  he  had  thrown  down  hi-  burden  and  -tabbed  him  in  the 
-ide.  Thn-i  a— anlu-d  the  bea-t  turned  suddenly  upon  him  and 
curried  him  oil'  on  hi-  horn-,  hut  though  he  W;L->  to— ed  ijnite  a 
dl-tance  theft1  wa-  no  serious  injury  experienced. 

It  i-  pretty  certain  that  there  i-  no  other  countrv  through 
which  a  hundred  and  fonrti-cn  .-tronir.  heart  v  fellow.-  could  pa-.s 

*  I 

everywhere  entertained  with  -nch  abundance.  S-kwebn,  the 
principal  man,  had  foretold  the  lilx-rality  of  the  triU--  along  the 
Zambezi,  he  having  knoun  them  inanv  years  l»efore  ;  all  hands 
agr«fd  that  he  had  told  onlv  the  truth.  The  men  to<,k  care  for 
themselves,  and  having  had  verv  little  trouble  li\-  the  wav,  they 
were  li_rht-heart"d  and  free;  they  genemlly  conducted  their 
[M-aecable  f.rav-  1-v  Lr"i"'_r  into  the  village.-  and  commencing  to 
dance,  and.  u  hen  it  i-  rcmcmliered  that  there  were  in  the  party 
p-pr<-entative-  of  nearl\  all  the  tribe-  which  are  in  any  way 
under  the  Mako]..]o  anthorif>  .  it  i-  ea-ilv  conceivable  'hat  the 
maiden-  of  the-c  village-  \\ere  difplv  int<Te.-tcil  bv  th«  compli- 
eution  of  the  eapef-  that  \\ej-e  e'.ii.  It  wa-  a-  natural  a.-  could 
IN-  for  them  to  lavi-h  all  their  corn  on  the  <_MV  and  gallant 
ptrin_r"r-.  The-c  -jallant  men  \\--re  iMin-i<lerablv  in  advanci- ol 
iiio-t  "t'  tho-e  whom  the\-  \  j-jsed.  and  lan_rhed  anionj-  thejn- 
»»1\'-  alx.nt  th'-ir  -n.-ce-.,.  '|'ii.\  ri  j"iced  in  their  well-fe<l  aj>- 
peai-ane,- ;  "  look,"  thi-v  \\«.n!i|  -av.  "  though  \\  «•  ha\e  be,  n  -o 
loir.'  a\iav  ii'om  home  not  n-|e  ..)  n-  ha-  iM-mtne  lean. 

The  ridi,  l.eaiitli'ul.  fre-h-lo,,kinLr,  he:ilthv  c..nntry  c.,ntra-ted 
rii"-f  charmm_'lv  \\.:h  the  -ultr\,  parched.  droopiliiT,  halt  ahvo 
r<-_':».n  in  the  -oiith.  The  alino-t  d.ti!\'  -ho\\ei--  imp  irti-d  a  de- 
li/htfnl  fre-hn-  --  t  .  all  thinj«.  It  \\  a-  hardly  po-ilile  t«.r  I  M. 


SURPRISED   BY    BUFFALOES 


A    FICJJIT    AVERTED.  203 

Livingstone  to  give  the  anxiety  which  might  have  l>een  natural 
enough  to  the  probable  difficulties  which  he  wa.->  to  conl'ront 
when  he  should  reach  Mpende's  village.  He  did,  however,  use 
forethought  enough  to  propitiate  such  of  his  prominent  subjects 
as  had  villages  on  their  path,  trusting  that  they  would  be  dis- 
posed to  exert  some  favorable  influence,  or,  if  no  better,  at  least 
might  circulate  the  true  nature  of  his  errand  in  advance  of  him. 
But  when,  on  the  '2-'>d  of  January,  the  sun  arose  on  them  sur- 
rounded by  a  large  party  of  Mpcndc's  people,  uttering  their 
strange  cries  and  waving  their  charms,  and  kindling  their  mvstie 
fire,  they  were  neither  surprised  nor  frightened.  lint  though 
Livingstone?  had  no  fear  that  his  men,  who  were  rejoicing  in  the 
prospect  of  a  fight,  would  fail  to  hold  the  dav  against  the  as- 
sailants, he  preferred  to  stand  looking  to  the  Ruler  of  heart.-, 
and  praving  to  be  spared  the  necessity  of  self-defence.  lie  was 
a  noble  example  of  a  man  standing  readv,  under  all  circum- 
stances, to  crucit'v  his  fondest  affection  and  strongest  passion  tor 
the  accomplishment  of  an  elevated  object.  His  men,  though, 
being  trained  to  marauding  and  suffering  in  their  wardrobes 
the  effects  of  a  long  tramp,  looked  on  the  situation  as  <jiiite  a 
promising  affair;  a  "good  hit"  bv  which  they  trusted  to  dre.>-s 
up  before  entering  the  homes  of  the  white  people.  Following 
the  custom  of  Sebituane,  who  had  trained  his  braves,  Living-tone 
had  an  ox  slaughtered,  that  they  might  whet  their  courage  for 
a  <i"'ht  on  a  irood  meal  of  flesh,  lint  while  he  was  waiting  (Jod 

r?  «™5 

was  working,  and  Livingstone  soon  saw  the  results  of  his  pro- 
vidence. In  the  midst  of  his  warlike  preparations  one  of  the 
men  who  had  talked  with  Livingstone  by  the  way  entered  the 
council  of  Mpende  with  information  which  changed  the  mind 
of  that  chief.  He  was  in  war  with  the  Portuguese',  and  thought 
of  Livingstone  as  one  of  his  enemies  ;  but  when  lie  heard  it  inti- 
mated that  the  stranger  belonged  to  "  the  tribe  who  love  the 
black  man"  (they  designate  the  Knglish  thus'),  he  was  a-  kind 
as  he  had  been  unfriendly,  and  expressed  his  regret  that  he  had 
been  misinformed  and  so  led  to  annoy  ••  the  man  >rh<>  l«i<l  n 
Itt'itrt  for  him."  When  I>r.  Livingstone  knew  the  favorable  de- 
cision of  the  council,  he  sent  Sekwebu  to  speak  about  the  pur- 
chase of  a  canoe,  <xivinu'  a-  one  of'  his  reasons  that  one  of  the 
men  bein^  sick  he  desired  to  get  a  canoe  in  which  to  carry  him 


"THINGS,  NOT  MKX." 

and  so  relieve  the  others  of  the  burden  of  carrying  him.  Before 
Sekwebu  could  tini.-h,  MjM-mle  remarked,  "  That  white  man  is 
trnlv  one  of  our  friends.  See  how  he  let-  me  know  his  atllic- 
tion- !  "  Sckwebu  adroitly  took  advantage  of  this  turn  in  the 
conversation,  ami  -aid,  "Ah!  if  von  onlv  knew  him  as  well  aa 
we  do  who  have  lived  with  him,  v«»u  \voiild  understand  that  he 
hi^hlv  value-  voiir  friend-hip  and  that  of  Minimum,  and,  :LS  he 
is  a  stranger,  he  tru-t.>  in  you  to  direct  him."  He  replied, 
''  Well,  he  ou^ht  to  ero->  to  the  other  .-ide  of  the  river,  lor  this 
bank  i-  hillv  and  rou^h,  and  the  \\av  to  Tete  i-  longer  on  this 
than  on  the  oppo-ite  bank."  "  lint  who  will  take  n-  across,  if 
you  do  not  ?"  "Trulv!"  replied  Mpende;  "1  onlv  wi-h  vou 
had  come  -.Miner  to  tell  me  about  him  ;  but  he  -hall  em— ." 

The  XamU'-i  at  thi-  point  wa-  twelve  hundred  vards  wide, 
but  the  pas,-a;_re  wa-  made  -alMv,  and  Livhi;j:-tone  congratulated 
himself  on  Ix-in^  on  the  -ide  !.•--  r\p«-ed  to  pettv  annovance-, 
and  offering  at  the  -ame  time  an  ea.-ier  path  to  the  -ea. 

It  W:L-  s^ratitvinu'  to  Livinp-toiie  to  find  all  the  people  occiipv- 
in^  the  coiintrv  eur-.-d  Kv  the  -lave  trade  of  the  I'ortii'jue-e  at 
least  con-cioiis  of  it-  meanne— ;  thev  exen-e  ihetnselves  (juite 
after  the  manii'T  of  more  enlightened  -inner-  for  their  enj^ijjriiig 
in  barter  which  re.  pi  ire-  the  ^ivm^r  of  human  In-in-j--  into  bondage 
bv  putting  greater  ^uilt  on  the  tempi.-r.  Thi-  i-  the  old  dod-je, 
which  wa-  not  ipnte  e<pial  to  the  emertrenev  of  onr  too  yielding 
mother  in  Kden,  and  it  cannot  deliver  even  the  heathen  from 
our  condemnation  ;  vet  c.rtainlv  if  can  hardlv  !)<•  a  plea-int:  re- 
flection to  tho-e  who  Would  take  the  re>pOll-ibilitV  of  eneolini^- 

)ir_r  such  a  trade  that    their  vicf.m-,  too  weak  to  re-i-t  them,  are 
j^o.^1    enoiijh    to    eiir-e    them,  and    tou  de^nided  t»    Ke  pitied    bv 

til-   111.  are    Vet     lloKle    e|]ol|_d|    to  de-pi-e    tin   III.       Tlle-e   people    -peak 

ot'   the   Ktr_r!i-h  a-  in<-n,  Kut   of  ih.    -lave-t  rader-  the\-  -av,  "thev 

ai'e  not   //..  ((,  t  he\-  ar« 

that  '  h'  •-••  \\  h'  •  liave 

an  in'|iir\'.      "All    i  h< 

childi'en  ;  lli--    I '.'  ./nn  ja 

e\  peji-r  . 

The  pre-.  n'  -  "f  trader-  i-nabliil  [^ivinj^-tone  to  rejil.  ni-h  the 
warcirolx  -  ot  In-  m.  n,  ulueh  thev  h:id  Keen  denied  attending  to 
lor  thi  m-elv  -  in  tie  \  i!la_'e  of  M  p.  nde,  and  thev  \vi-n-  hapjiiep. 


-ha-ed    -la\e-  of  them  ha 


8AXI)    RIVERS.  205 

In  latitude  15°  38'  34"  south,  longitude-  31'  1'  cast,  on  tlio 
1st  of  February,  they  crossed  the  Zingcsi,  one  of  the  .sand-rivu- 
lets which  constitute  quite  a  feature  of  the  country.  Jt  wa>  in 
Hood  at  that  time  and  flowed  along  quite  waist-de«p.  The>e 
sand-rivers  are  the  agencies  which  have  probably  had  much  to 
do  in  the  changes  which  are  manifestly  occurring  in  the  face  of 
the  country  continually.  In  trying  to  ford  this  stream  Dr. 
Livingstone  felt  thousands  of  particles  of  coarse  sand  beating 
against  his  legs.  These  rivers  remove  vast  quantities  of  dii-in- 
tegrated  rock  before  it  has  time  enough  to  form  soil,  and  one, 
diving  below  the  surface  may  hear  thousands  of  tiny  stones 
knocking  against  each  other  continually.  And  we  can  readily 
believe  that  "  this  attrition,  carried  on  for  hundreds  of  miles  in 
different  rivers,  must  have  an  effect  greater  than  if  all  the 
pestles  and  mortars  and  mills  of  the  world  were  grinding  and 
wearing  away  the  rocks." 

The  general  order  was  somewhat  interrupted  by  the  "  game 
laws"  which  protected  the  animal  kingdom.  The  lands  of  each 
chief  are  very  well  defined,  the  boundaries  being  usually  marked 
by  rivulets,  great  numbers  of  which  flow  into  the  Zambesi  from 
both  banks,  and  if  an  elephant  is  wounded  on  one  man's  land 
and  dies  on  that  of  another,  the  under  half  of  the  carcass  is 
claimed  by  the  lord  of  the  soil ;  and  so  stringent  is  the  law,  that 
the  hunter  cannot  begin  at  once  to  cut  up  his  own  elephant,  but 
must  send  notice  to  the  lord  of  the  soil  on  which  it  lies,  and 
wait  until  that  personage  sends  one  authorized  to  see  a  tail- 
partition,  made.  If  the  hunter  should  begin  to  cut  up  before 
the  agent  of  the  landowner  arrives,  he  is  liable  to  lu.-e  both  the 
tusks  and  all  the  flesh.  The  hind  leg  of  a  butl'alo  mu.-t  al-o  be 
given  to  the  man  on  whose  land  the  animal  was  gra/ing,  and 
a  still  larger  quantitv  of  the  eland,  which  here  and  everywhere 
else  in  the  country  is  esteemed  right  royal  food. 

If  these  laws  had  been  met  here  for  the  first  time,  Living- 
stone would  prohablv  have  considered  them  a  sort  of  tax  on  the 
traveller  for  passing  through  another's  country,  but  they  are 
found  far  in  the  south.  In  the  interior  too  there  are  game  la\\<, 
though  not  exact Iv  such  as  these.  The  man  who  tir.-t  wounds 
an  animal,  though  he  has  inflicted  but  a  mere  scrateh,  i-  con- 
sidered the  killer  of  it;  the  second  is  entitled  to  a  hind  <jiiartec. 


2«*>  TIIK    M'OTTKI)    IIYKNA. 

and  the  thinl  to  a  fore-leg.  The  ehief-  are  generally  entitled  to 
a  -hare  :L-  tribute;  in  xmie  part-  it  i-  the  bn-:L-t,  in  other-  the 
whole  of  the  ril«s  ami  one  fore-let:,  1  *r.  Livingstone  generallv 
re-jK-eN-d  thi-  law,  although  exceptions  an.*  sometimes  nuule  when 
aniin.il-  are  killed  l>v  .run-.  The  knowledge  that  lie  who  -ue- 
eeed-  in  iva'-]iin.r  tin-  wounded  U-;i-t  lir-t  i-  entitled  to  a  >hare 
stimulates  tin-  whole  jiartv  to  greater  exertion-  in  despatching  it. 
Anionj  hi-  o\vn  follower-  tln--e  law-  were  in  -omc  foree.  (  )ne 
nf  th.-  men  having  a  knowledge  ui'  elephant  medicine  jjenerallv 
wt.-nt  l»i!dlv  in  advamv  <it  tip-  others  and  on  In-  deeisiun  thi' 
ehoii-e  d«'|»i-ndtil  ;  and  \i<-  wa-  n^t^nijutl  a^  having  a  right  to 
eertain  part.-  of  the  elephant  a-  tin-  trilitit«-  to  hi-  ullicc. 

lip-  hut-  in  tin-  -ti-tioii  thcv  foii:id   <  r.-rtnl  on  hiu'li  Mair*1-  in 

tile    Illid-t   of  pinll'll.-.          1  llf   -|'o!t«-d    llVrlia   i-    the  -rolir_rr   of    tilt' 

eoiintrv,  and  his  cowanlly  luit  -ava-ji-  prowling  inak«--  it  nccr-- 
.-arv  to  -!•  i  ji  out  of  hi-  tvarh.  Tin-  prct^uitiitll  ot'  flrvatfd 
i"i  -tin_r-ji!ai'i •-  -«-rvi-s  well  a_rain-t  lln-  lions  and  elephants,  \siio 
an-  not  -cni|iiilou-  al>out  di-tnrliing  tin-  -\\rctc-t  rrjio-r  hy 
their  dreadful  intru-ion-.  |  hi-  hvena  partietilarlv  i-  drejuletl, 
luftin.-*1  he  fn-ijiu-ntlv  apjiroai'hi-s  p«-r-on-«  Iving  a-h-ep  and 
maki  -  horri«l  \\oik  \\iili  tinir  feature-.  M«-n  are  fivi|iietitlv 
killt-d  and  i-hil<!ri-n  earrie. I  a\\av;  for  though  the  vniee  of  a 
human  l»«-in^  till-  iiim  uitli  t.-rror,  IP-  never  unt'a-ten-  hi-  teeth 
wh'-n  o:ice  h«-  ha-  a  ta-te  oj'  l,l.,o<l  if  it  i-  |>o-.-il>Ic  to  dra-j:  his 
vietmi  a'.sa\.  1  h- •-••  animal-  prowl  alioiit  under  eo\t|-of  the 
darkii' --.  utti  riiiLr  'he  nio-t  horrid  \»-lU.  Their  tiltliv  ^luttonv 
find-  a  •  !i"ice  rep-i-t  in  tin-  v.'or-t  t''nn~  ot'  putriditv.  1  he 
t-t  r-  -n  _r!  li  of  it-  jaw-  i-  onlv  ei|iiallid  !>v  n-  wonderful  power  of 
di_''-ti»ii.  ll  \\ill  <-a-ilv  i-ru-h  in  il-  N-rh  th«-  lar/'-t  li"ii<--  of 
.111  <:\.  and  di-j-i--t  th'-in  \'.itli'>U!  th«-  -li_rlit--l  ilieonveniemv. 
I'.'if  tin-  pi-.tple  had  |>!t-ntv.  and  thoirjh  nndi-r  tin-  ni-<-e--ity  of 
hui!d!nj  th'-ir  H---I-  in  tip-  air  liki-  tip-  l»ird-.  \\er«-  \it  .jiiile 
.•••into:  ta'il'-  and  li_'ht-h.-art«-d.  Tln-ir  -jardi-n-  an-  in  ar!\  all  of 
tlp-:ii  I'i'iaiiniil  iVoiii  tin-  fo|-i-«t-.  \\hn-h  alioimd  in  L'i'-'aiit  !«• 
tr-'-- -.  h  i-  prolciiiK  tin-  pi-ciiliarlv  IM\'-HOII-  halut-  o|  dp-ir 
'•in-alunj-  «  IP-MIV  \\ii:'ii  explain  tip-  taet  that  Inanv  ot  tlp-e 
lar^"-  ir>.-  e..nlain  tip-  I  Midi--  «•)'  tlnir  d«-ad.  Anioii.j-  tin-  trees 
ot  i:nportaii'-<-  tip-  tamarind  i-  ijinii-  eon-pi«-noii-,  on  ai-<-omit  of 
th"-  larje  miml»T-  .,)'  lip  in  and  it-  valuaMe  fruit.  '1  IP  re  i-  an- 


MVIXiJSTONKS   GENEROSITY.  -JO7 

other,  not  unlike  it,  (ill led  the  rnotondo,  tin-  wood  of  which  i> 
very  highly  valued  by  the  Portuguese  l'«»r  building  boats. 

The  Zambesi  all  along  east  of  the  ridge  is  Mibject  to  fn  qm  nt 
freshets,  occasioned  bv  the  rains,  which  were  found  to  !><•  of 
almost  daily  oeeurrenee.  Dr.  Livingstone  suggests  that  it  is 
prohablv  owing  to  these  freshets  that  the  Portuguese,  on  the 
coast  have  failed  to  discover  the  periodical  overflow  of  the  river, 
which  is  discoverable  in  the  great  interior  valley,  where  it  is 
not  affected  l>v  so  inanv  tributaries,  and  where  the  drv  and  wet 
seasons  are  more  marke<l.  And  it  was  his  opinion  that  if  the 
Zaml>esi  was  continued  southward  to  the  Cape,  being  allowed  to 
flow  through  the  flat  country  of  the  desert,  it  would  l>e  seen  t</ 
have  the  same  character  as  the  Nile  in  Kgypt. 

The  generosity  of  the  people  continued  to  lighten  the  care  of 
travelling.  The  villagers  were  quite  generous  of  supplies,  and 
whatever  disposition  to  ask  or  demand  gifts  they  manifested 
was  clearly  attributable  to  the  association  with  the  despicable 
class  of  white  men  who  have  been  among  them  as  traders:  the 
contemptible  gifts  which  these  men  frequently  make,  such  as  a 
few  buttons,  or  some  other  equally  worthless  object,  give.-  ri-e 
to  the  necessity,  on  the  part  of  the  natives,  for  making  demands 
for  articles  of  some  value,  which  mav  be  in  some  sort  an  equiva- 
lent for  their  attentions.  The  custom  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  of 
making  presents  of  real  value,  as  far  as  lav  in  his  power,  went 
far  toward  elevating  him  in  the  confidence  of  the  people,  and 
contributed  no  little  to  the  honor  of  the  English  name  in  their 
estimation.  Those  who  pursue  another  course  are  greatly  mis- 
taken in  counting  on  the  ignorance  of  the  natives  to  excuse 
them.  They  are  aware  of  the  worthlessness  of  the  articles,  and 
receive  them  with  a  degree  of  shame,  and  ladies  may  be  .-<rn  to 
hand  it  quickly  to  the  attendants,  and,  when  they  retire,  laugh 
until  the  tears  stand  in  their  eyes,  saying  to  thost-  about  them, 
"Is  that  a  white  man'.'  then  there  are  niggards  among  them 
too.  Some  of  them  are  born  without  hearts!"  One  white 
trader,  having  presented  an  <>!<!  r/nn  to  a  chief,  became  a  stand- 
ing joke  in  the  tribe:  '"  The  white  man  who  made  a  pre-ent  of  a 
gun  that  was  new  when  his  grandfather  was  sucking  his  great- 
grandmother." 


CHAPTER    XT. 

rmmv.v  TO  TKTK. 

I>i'tri<  t  »f  rhirriT.i  —  Atrriculture— Game  I.awi~I5nnyai  Prayers — Makol<>lo 
Fuith  Ii!*i-i-i  I.ifi--HiriU  Tin  ir  S-IIIL--  —  S<|nirrvl  ( i-  "I'^'ifal  IVaMirv* - 
(ir:i|--*  Plumv  — Animal  Lift-  Sii|M-r-mi"ii  ul>"tit  I.i"ii«  Tin-  K"ru<'  A 
M--1.-1  Hu»kui'l  — Hrlj.ful  Fart*  -  <  i'lvrrmin-nt  of  I}:--  P.anyai  S, -li-ctiiiu' 
('hii-f-. —  Mniiina's  '  ijij»miti«>n  1'i.rlit  Tlin-atnic'l  Su'Mi-M  I  >•  rati-jrim-nl  - 
<  '..ii-.-i.  •[;<•.•  at  \V..rk  "A  t  iiiilt  "  -  -An  <  >niral  W.-man'-  Ili-ht-  Th.  •  >..n-in- 

I..i«       I'ljrii'.y  ..f  \V«.m:in      <i 1    IIns)>aii.l-,  I'.a.l  Hiiut.-r^      Tl..-  IMiin...  . -r<^ 

A:i'!'-.r""ii's    A'lvt-nturv     Tt-rrit>lc    r.!ir,.imt,-r      Illiiii'-ci-r"-    Ani"ii«r    l'.i:v~i- 
Vi!!;i-.-s    Av..;.!,..I      N.-ariiis;   T.t.'      I.iviti->t.,ii,-  Kma.-iai.-i      Ki.-iir  M  il.  -  '  U,!  v 
—A    K'-tr'i>|..-i-t      A    Pro-pf'-t      N»M«-    Pii-tnn-     Arriralnl'   M- «^-ii..-.  r-     <i\i!- 

i/.-.l    P.ri'akf.i-t—  K •]•::•> n    at    T«-(f  — Tin-   S..urr«   i.f  tin-  /atuU-i  I   hk  n-u  n    - 

Thf  Vain.-  ..!'  tin-  l>i-r..vi-rv. 

Ai/niDfiiH  it  wa-  rn«>~t  di-simMc1  (•>  follow  tlic  river  :i- 
do^.-lv  :i.<  jio«sil»lr,  the  continue*!  llo«Ml~.  to^ctln-r  with  the  lin-- 
tili-  I'lianicfi-r  of'  -Kiut-  of  the  jx-ttv  dii-  t'-  who  \voiild  !><•  on  the 
line  of  that  mute,  ilet<'nninr<l  I>r.  Living-tone  on  a  more  south- 
ern jiath  U-TO-S  the  di-tri'-t  ot'  ( 'hii-ova.  'I'hi-  j»revente<|  his 
makiiiL:  anv  olnM-rvations  of'  the  /anihc-i  hetwcen  the  hill-  we-t 
ot'  th«-  (  'liirova  tlats  and  the  town  of  'Pete.  The  nation  of 
roiintrv  throiiL'li  whieh  he  jias-e<l  \\a~  not  wanting  in  Keaiitv, 
ami  there  were  soiiH- thinp»  of  sjwcial  interest,  on  aeeoiint  of 
whieh  he  wa>  rather  gratified  hv  the  change  of  route.  'Phe 
di-tri'-t  had  l>e.n  rej>orte<l  to  contain  nlver  mine-,  and  the 
eiirio-ity  ot'  on.-  -.  i  !o|]L'  liuried  in  the  wild-  W:L-  awake  for  Midi 
fv;denei-<  ot'  Mnroju-an  enterpri.M1.  Hi-  own  iuvistipitious  did 
no!,  however,  'onlirm  th'-  report  ;  the  native-  knew  nothing  ot' 
M'lvt-r.  Hut  ili'-  tindiiiL:  "t  ''..al  and  the  new-  of  £old-wrv-hinp« 
ri-iievi'l  t!i''  di-appointnient  a-  to  -ilviT. 

'1  h«  !•••  were  no  li.  rd-  to  remind  him  of  th«-  more  inland 
/VjVn'k,  for  the  /.,,/..,  dwells  aloiiL'  the  little  itreatii-  aild  rivu- 
let- whieh  tlin -ad  the  country  ;  the  inhaliitants  arc  therefore 
.1-  voted  to  a^r:i n  It  ural  |inr-uit-,  j«erhap-  a-  much  from  m-res* 
•  itv  :i«  Ir-'in  jirct,-n'iic.-.  'Phi  v  arc  ;i  Lroo.l-look  IIIL',  rnanlv  set, 


OAMK    LAWS.  Of  ft 

generous  enough  to  assist  and  selfish  enough  to  hinder  a  warm- 
hr.irteil  traveller,  as  Livingstone;  could  testify  out  of  his  own 
experience. 

Among  the  troublesome  fcatuns  of  their  government,  to  a 
partv  dependent  largely  <>n  what  tlicv  might  chance  to  kill, 
were  their  game  laws,  which  diilered  little  from  those  mentioned 
as  existing  in  other  parts  of  the  continent.  The  operation  of 
thesi-  laws  may  be  illustrated  by  the  liict  that,  the  follower-  of 
Livingstone  having  killed  an  elephant,  they  dared  not  go  so  far 
as  to  cut  it  up  until  a  me.-seiiger  had  been  sent  to  the  man  who 
had  charge  of  the  game  of'  (he  district.  The  delay  occasioned 
bv  this  formality  rendered  the  meat  almost  useless  before  th" 
hungry  party  could  get  at  it.  If  they  had  begun  cutting  it  up 
without  this  permission  they  would  have  lost  the  whole.  ( ):i 
th's  occasion  certain  Banyai  hunters  chanced  to  be  present,  and 
exhibited  a  little  of  their  national  faith.  One  of  them,  wit- 
nessing the  light  of  the  strangers  with  the  beast,  took  out  hi- 
snuff-box  and  emptied  the  contents  at  the  root  of  a  tree  as  an 
offering  to  the  spirits  for  success;  and  when  the  animal  (I'll, 
said  to  Dr.  Livingstone,  "I  see  you  are  travelling  with  people 
who  don't  know  how  to  pray  ;  I  therefore  offered  the  onlv  thing 
I  had  in  their  behalf  and  the  elephant  soon  fell."  They  wor- 
ship departed  spirits,  and  in  their  reverence  and  devotion  are 
an  example  to  some  whose  confidence  and  affection  arc-  claimed 
by  a  higher  and  worthier  lieing.  Their  modest  re-peet  for 
their  Ixirimo  contrasted  strikingly  with  the  confident  and  care- 
less recognition  of  the  Supreme  Giver  of  All  bv  the  men  from 
the  interior,  who  said,  "God  gave  it  to  us."  lie  said  to  the  old 
beast,  "Go  up  there;  men  are  come  who  will  kill  vou." 

The  inhabitants  of  this  countrv  call  themselves  Uambari,  but 
thev  are  of  the  nation  who.se  general  name  is  Ilanvai.  The  few 
towns  and  village's  to  which  Livingstone  came  treated  him  ami 
his  men  kindly.  Thev  are  surrounded  bv  gardens  which  have 
been  reclaimed  from  the  forests  and  are  exceedingly  fertile. 
The  abundance  of  insect  life  was  truly  wonderful  ;  alni".-t  every 
plant  has  its  peculiar  insect.  The  rankest  poisons,  a-  the 
kongwhane  and  euphorbia,  are  >oon  devoured.  The  former  has 
a  scarlet  insect.  Even  "the  lierv  hir>!.-eve  pepper,  which  ^'ill 
keep  off  many  others  from  its  uwn  .-ceo!,  i-  it.-elf  devoured  by  a 


210  I1I1IDS   OF    AKIJK  A. 

maggot.  '1  lirrv  were  seen  also  great  nuinlnTS  of  centipedes  with 
light  reddi.-h  l>odies  and  blue  legs,  ami  great  iiiyriajHik-s  are 
»«.fu  crawling  everywhere.  Kven  in  the  decpc-t  and  <juietest 
jiart-  of  tin-  forest  there  is  tht-  distinct  hum  of  insect  joy.  The 
tiny  hoin-v  guides  were  at  hand  volunteering  tlu-ir  services,  hut 
thnv  wen-  no  artificial  hives  a-  in  I.-mda,  or  long  lines  of 
hoiu-v  ht/aivr-.  The  wax  had  not  lux-onie  an  article  of  value  as 
on  the  \\v-t  i-ojt-t.  The  little  toih-rs  -tore  their  treasure  in  the 
cnvitio  nf  trees. 

Tin-  feathered  trilx-;  seemed  determined  to  vindicate  their 
characters  and  contradict  the  a— ertion  that  "  bird-  of  the  tropics 
arc  wanting  in  the  jxwer  of  song ;  "  hut  to  Livin«f-tonc,  tli'Mi^h 
they  -ang  with  power,  they  -eemed  "-inking  in  a  firei-jn 
tongue."  "  (  Jne,"  he  Kiys  "  brought  the  chatlinch  to  niv  mind, 
atiotli-T  the  robin;  two  have  notes  not  unlike  t!i»-r  ,>i'  the 
thru.-h,  while  some  re-emblr  the  lark."  The  be-t  -MM^-.  hnw- 
evi  r,  nt'  them  all  wen-  market]  by  certain  "stramje,  abriipt 
note~  "  unlike  anvthing  he  Imd  heard  before.  One  utters  delib- 
erate! v,  "  Peek,  j»ak,  |>"k;"  another  ha-  a  >iii'_rlc  note  like  a 
-troke  UK  a  violin  .-tring.  Then  ttn-re  i-  the  Imid  erv  of  t'ran- 
colin-.  tin-  "  jtunijdiru,  pnmpurn  "  of  the  turtl. -dove-,  and  the 
.-creaming  note-  of  the  niokwa.  The  bird-  of'  Africa,  like  its 
people,  are  unknown  ami  therefore  despised.  When  thev  have 
Ix'fii  -iiirj  bv  the  piM'ts  pei.pli-  \\ill  prai-e  their  snn^-.  and  tin- 
poet-  N\ill  -ing  of  them  when  th'-v  have  heard  the -nng<.  Like 
our  bird-,  thc-c  choristers  of  the  unknown  land  love  the  earlv 
niornin'_r  and  the  evening  with  it-  halmv  breath,  or  thev  are 
filled  uiih  jnv  when,  on  a  -ultrv  da-v.  a  -uddeii  shnwer  ha-  re- 
fre>h'-d  all  nature,  and  'jr^at,  (•"'•!  di'np-  haiiL:  lil<e  pearl-  <>\\ 
everv  b'.ii-_rh  <>r  leaf,  gli-ti-ning  in  the  rav-  of  the  -ini.  \\lii'-h 
glaii'-e  :i!.iii'_r  the  cloud-  \\ith  broken  p.  i\ver.  Il  i-  a  plea-in^' 
t!iou_'hi  that  <i  .d  ha-  jirovided  the  darke-t  wildcrw*-«'s  of  «-arf h 
\siili  in'  li«li'--  in  prai-e  ,,f  hi-  ^">.Mlne~-,  and  it  niav  !»•  that  we 
-hoi i!d  c-.n-ider  the  pre-.  ii.-e  (.('(ind'-  chui r  a-  a  |iri»ph'-e\-  nf  hi< 
coiiiinj'.  It  mav  be  that  the  vice  nt'  -.iii'_p  \\liieli  \\rap-  tin 
wnrld  like  prai-e  ],  t»  !•••  the  ciinopy  of  ( IiMl's  d.,mininn.  It 
may  be  that  the  bird-  «-f  Afri--a.  -"!i::t'iil  and  tree,  hint  i-t'  thf 
time  v.  iieii  nil  her  -al>le  -MM-  mav  -liMiit  in  the  wonderful  enian- 
•ipatioM  \\hich  .-hall  attend  the  ivi-n  of  ( 'hri-t  .le-u-  the  I.urd. 


GEOLOGICAL    FKATl.'UKS.  21] 

The  ever-provident  squirrel  was  observed  arranging  his  nest 
and  storing  his  supplies  in  the  cavities  of  the  trees;  more,  how- 
ever, against  the  long  hot  seasons  than  against  the  winter,  as 
with  us.  There  were  great  numbers  of  silieilied  lives  Ivin^ 
about  over  the  ground  ;  in  one  place  there  was  discovered  a 
piece  of  palm  transformed  into  oxide  of  iron,  with  the  pon-- 
lilled  with  pure  silica.  These  fossil  trees  lie  upon  -oft  grav 
sandstone,  containing  ban  Us  of  shingle,  which  form-  the  under- 
lying rock  of  the  country.  The  way  led  acro-<  the  hill-  Vun- 
gue  or  Mvuugwe,  which  were  found  to  be  composed  of  variou-* 
eruptive  rocks;  at  one  part  we  have  breccia  of  altered  marl  or 
slate  in  quart/,  and  various  amygdaloid*.  The  dillercnt  forms 
which  silica  was  Ibund  to  a-suine  were  trulv  remarUable.  It 
appeared  in  clay  stone  porphyry  here,  in  minute  round  globules, 
no  larger  than  turnip-seed,  dotted  thicUlv  over  the  matrix  ;  or 
crystallized  round  the  walls  of  cavities,  once  filled  with  air  or 
other  elastic  fluid  ;  or  it  may  appear  in  similar  cavities  as  tufts 
of  yellow  asbestos,  or  as  red,  yellow,  or  green  crystals,  or  in 
lamina*  so  arranged  as  to  appear  liUe  fossil  wood.  Yungue 
forms  the  watershed  between  those  sand  rivulets  which  run  to 
the  northeast,  and  others  which  flow  southward,  as  the  Kapopo. 
Ue,  and  Due,  which  run  into  the  Luia. 

The  ground  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Kapopo  and  the  IV 
\vas  covered  with  rounded  shingle,  which,  being  hidden  bv  the 
grass,  greatly  aggravated  the1  miseries  of  the  pede.-triau  march. 
The  difficulty  was  increased,  too,  bv  the  network  of' vines  which 
hedged  the  paths  on  every  side  and  spread  almost  impassable 
snares  across  it.  There  were  among  these  vines,  however,  great 
numbers  bearing  wild  grapes,  some  of  which  were  so  delicate 
that  they  resembled  greatly  the  cultivated  varieties  ;  the-e  are 
eagerly  appropriated  by  the  native-,  and  the  Portuguese  have 
found  out  the  value  of  some  of  the  varieties  fi»r  making  vinegar. 
Indeed,  the  invitation  seems  to  be  extended  quite  encouragingly 
to  those  interested  in  grape  culture  to  think  of  Africa.  Another 
species  of  fruit  which  was  found  to  be  really  "delicious"  is 
known  as  the  mokoronga.  It-  abundance  doe-  not  diminish  its 
popularity.  The  natives  speak  of'  it  a-  "all  fat,"  which  they 
mean  shall  convey  the  impression  of  excellence.  Though  these 
plums  are  but  little  larger  than  a  cherry  thev  are  irreatlv  ivli-he-i 

4.  <-•  *  *  * 

13 


THE    KOUM'K    AND    I  IKK    NEST. 

l»v  the  elephant,  and  they  may  l>e  HVII  standing  picking  tliem 
oil'  patiently  by  the  hour. 

The  IMIW  and  arrow  have  Invn  inefl'eettial  weajxms  against 
th<*  multitude-  of  animals  whieh  make  their  home  in  this  eotin- 
trv.  J»ntValoe-  and  antelnpe-  were  found  in  abundance ;  lions 
and  hvena-  a!-o  are  ivinarUablv  nnmerou-.  I'o— ihlv  tlie  MIJMT- 
-tition  of  the  pi-nple  ha-  -oim  tiling  to  do  witli  the  nnml>er-  and 
andaeitv  of  the  former,  for  the  people,  ix-lieving  that  the  souls 
of'  their  ehief-  enter  into  them,  never  attempt  to  kill  them  ;  thev 
•  veil  delieve  that  a  chief  iiiav  mi -tamorpln  1-1  •  him-ell'into  a  lion, 
kill  anv  one  he  ehoo-e-,  and  then  return  to  the  human  form  ; 
then-fun-,  when  thev  see  one,  thev  eoinmenee  clapping  their 
hand-,  whieh  i-  the  n-nal  mode  of  -alntation  here.  The  eon.-e- 
'|iienee  i-,  that  lion-  and  livena-  are  so  abundant  tint  little  huts 
are  -ei  n  made  m  the  tree-,  indicating  the  places  where  .-onie  of 
the  inhabitant.*  have  -!.-pt  wlien  In-ni^hted  in  the  field-. 

Tlie  courage  or  inditVerence  with  whieh  Livinp-tnne's  men 
wandered  alx'Ut  in  ---arch  ofhon'-v  and  liird-'  ne-t-  ijnite  a-ton- 
i-iied  the  native-.  In  the-e  forav-  it  \\a>  (jnite  common  t'or 
them  to  find  the  ne-t-  of  the  korwe.  Tin-  i-  a  verv  remarkable 
liird  \\ho-e  n.  -t-  are  found  in  the  eavitie-  ot'  the  mopaiie  tree-. 
\\  hen  the  female  enter-  her  ne-t,  -he  -nbmit-  to  a  real  confine- 
meat.  The  male  pla-'er-  up  tin-  entrance,  leaving  onlv  a 
narrow  -lit  liv  which  to  f'eed  hi-  mate,  and  which  exactlv  -nits 
the  form  of  hi-  iieak.  Tin1  female  make-  a  ne-t  of'  her  own 
leather*.  !a\  -  her  ej-'_r-,  hatehe-  them,  and  remain-  with  the 
\ouii_'  til!  they  are  fully  fledged.  J  )nrin-j  all  tin*  time,  which 
i-  -tated  to  !..-  t  \\  o  or  three  month-,  the  male  continue-  to  feed 
her  and  the  \oim_r  familv.  I  he  pri^mii-r  ^iMierallv  lieconie- 
'[ii:te  tiit,  and  i-  e-N-eined  a  verv  daintv  nior-d  |i\-  the  natives, 
while  ill-  |K.,,r  -lave  of  a  hn-!>and  L'et-  -o  lean  that,  on  the  -ml- 
d-  :i  1"  \  •  i  'in_'  of  the  t  en  i  pe  rat  1 1  iv  \\  hi  eh  -onietiine-  ha  p|>en-  after 
a  tail  o|  ram,  he  i-  liemimtied,  fall-  do'A'ii,  and  die-.  The 
hor.\  ••  j-.  -i..  i  al  ,\'  I'-ad-  In  r  \  •  mirj  for!  h  alf  >;it  t  In-  time  when  corn 
i-  ripe,  and  the\  are  tullv  cloth,  ,1  and  ih-djed  f-r  their  fir-t 

app-'i:  a!r  •     oath'     -ta-je  o|    life.          I'lie  deVotloll   wllic'il    tile   jxiretlt 

iii  I'd-  inanil'  -!  t'  >r  «-;i'-!i  ot  her  i-  \  e|-\  I  want  if  n!  ;  lint  u  hen  a  di*- 
iiin*olale  hn-liand  :-  found  t'-edin^  another  \\ife  at  the  -aim* 
ne-t  fpiai  -.\!. i'ii  h;-  lofiii'-r  partner  wa-  taken  liv  voracious  men 


AFRICAN    I'KOI'KK    NAM  I*.  21.; 

only  four  or  fivo  weeks  lx;fore,  his  love  becomes  strongly  like  :i 
sarcastic  imitation  of  his  human  enemies,  who  an-  hardly  more 
permanently  disconsolate. 

The  party  eame  to  Moiiina's  village  (close  to  the  Nind-rivi-r 
Tangwe,  latitude  HI"  1'V  IW"  south,  longitude  '-VI  '.">'!'  ea.-t  i. 
This  man  was  verv  j)O|)iilar  among  the  tribes  on  account  of  lib* 
liherality.  Horoma,  Nyampungo,  Monina,  .lira,  Katolosa 
( Mononiotapa),  and  Susa,  all  acknowledge  the  supremacy  of' one 
called  Nvatcwe,  who  is  reported  to  decide  all  disputes  respecting 
land.  This  confederation  is  exact Iv  similar  to  what  we  observed 
in  Jjonda  and  other  parts  of  Africa.  Katolosa  is  ''the  Kmperor 
Monomotapa"  of  history,  but  he  is  a  chief  of  no  great  power, 
and  acknowledges  the  supremacy  of  Nyatewe.  The,  Portuguese 
formerly  honored  Mononiotapa  with  a  guard  to  fire  off* numbers 
of  guns  on  the  occasion  of  any  funeral,  and  he  was  also  partially 
subsidized.  The  only  evidence  of  greatness  possessed  bv  his 
successor  is  his  haying  about  a  hundred  wives.  AVhen  he  dies 
a  disputed  succession  and  much  fighting  arc  expected.  In  re- 
ference to  the  term  Mononiotapa,  it  is  to  be  remembered  that 
Mono,  Moene,  Mona,  Mana,  or  Morena,  mean  simplv  chi<  f]  and 
considerable  confusion  has  arisen  from  naming  different  people 
by  making  a  plural  of  the  chief's  name.  The  names  Mono- 
moixes,  spelled  also  Monemuiges  and  Monomui/es,  and  Mono- 
motapistas,  when  applied  to  these  tribes,  are  exactly  the  same  as 
if  we  should  call  the  Scotch  the  Lord  Douglases.  Motape 
wrfs  the  chief  of  the  Bambiri,  a  tribe  of  the  Banvai,  and  is  now 
represented  in  the  person  of  Katolosa.  He  was  probably  a  man 
of  greater  energy  than  his  successor,  yet  only  an  insignificant 
chief.  Monomoizes  was  formed  from  Moixa  or  Mtii/a,  the  sin- 
gular of  the  word  Babisa  or  Ai/.a,  the  proper  name  of  a  lartre 
tribe  to  the  north.  In  the  transformation  of' this  name  the  same 
error  has  been  committed  as  in  the  others  ;  and  mistakes  have 
occurred  in  many  other  names  by  inattention  to  the  meaning, 
and  predilection  for  the  letter  /•.  The  river  Loangwa,  for  in- 
stance, has  been  termed  Arroangoa,  and  the  Luenya  the  Ruanha. 
The  Baxixulu,  or  Mashona,  are  spoken  of' as  the  Morururus. 

The  government  of  the  I>anyai  is  rather  peculiar,  beinir  a 
sort  of  feudal  republicanism.  The  chief  is  elected,  and  thev 
choose  the  son  of  the  deceased  chief's  sj<ter  in  preference  to  },is 


214  THE   CHOICE    «»F    A    I'HIKF. 

own  offspring.  Wlit-n  dissatisfied  with  one  candidate,  they 
even  go  t<>  a  distant  trilx-  for  a  -ucees-or,  \vh«»  is  u-uallv  of  the 
family  of  the  late  chief,  a  brother,  or  a  -i-ter's  son,  hut  never 
his  own  son  or  daughter.  When  lir-t  -pokcn  to  on  the  Mihjeet, 
he  answer-  ;is  if  he  thought  him-elf  unequal  to  the  task  and  un- 
worthy of  the  honor;  but,  having  a<vrj»tfd  it,  all  tin-  wivts, 
j^MHl.s,  and  children  of  his  predtvessor  belong  to  him,  and  In- 
takes rare  to  keep  them  in  a  de|M*ndent  position.  When  anvone 
of  them  becomes  tiretl  of  this  -tale  of  v:issalage  ami  >et>  up  hi- 
own  village,  it  is  not  unusual  tor  the  eleeted  duel'  to  >end  a 
nu  mix- r  of  the  young  men,  who  eon^re^ate  about  himself  to 
vi-it  him.  If  he  does  not  receive  them  with  the  u-ual  amount 
of  flapping  of  hand-  and  luunilitv,  thev,  in  olxilienet-  to  orders. 
at  onee  burn  his  village.  The  ehildren  of  tin-  chief  have  !i\\er 
privileges  than  eommon  free  men.  Thev  mav  not  !*•  sold,  but, 
Hither  than  ehoo-e  anvone  of'  them  for  a  chief  al  anv  future 

time,   the   tree   Mien    Would   prefer   to  elect   one  of    thelll-elvi-S,    \\llo 

lx»re  only  a  verv  di-tant  relation-hip  to  the  tamilv.  The-e  tn-e 
men  are  a  distinct  »-la~s  who  <'an  never  be  -old  ;  and  under  them 

there   i-   a  el;i>s   nf   -laVeS    wlio-e  a|  i[  u  ai';i  IK  -e  a~    Well    a-    ji"-l!l"ll    1> 

verv  drgratli1*!,  Monina  had  a  '_rreat  number  ot  voun^  men 
about  him  from  twelve  to  fifteen  \e;ir-  of  a^c.  The-e  were  all 
»on-  ot'  tree  men,  and  bantl-  of  voiing  men  like  them  in  the 
different  di~trict>  leave  their  parent^  al»out  tin- age  of  pulM-rty, 
and  live  with  -uch  men  a-  Monina  for  the  -ake  of  in>truetion. 
\\'h''ii  a-!;ed  the  nature  of  the  instruction,  one  i-  told  "  |iony:ri," 
which  m:iN'  be  under -to<>d  a-  indictiting  manhood,  tor  it  sounds 
a-  it  \ve  -lioiiM  «a\',  "to  teai-h  an  Am<riean  AinericiUiism,"  oi- 
"an  Kir_rli-!irn:in  to  be  l-'.n^!i-li."  \\'hile  here  thev  arc  kept  in 
-n!i!'-'t  i' MI  to  rather  -tringenl  regulations.  'I  hev  mu-t  -alute 
caret'ullv  bv  elapj»ing  their  hand-  on  approaching  a  -nperior,  and 
•A!I'-:I  :m\'  cooked  f  n>d  i-  broii-jhl  th-1  \~oii  n^  men  ma\  not  ap- 
proach  the  di-h,  but  an  elder  ilividi-*  a  portion  to.acli.  Tiny 
r-'inaiii  unmarried  until  a  fre-h  -••!  of  youth-  i-  r-:i'l\  too,-,  upy 
th-  :r  plac.  ind-  r  the  -atii'-  m-t  niet  ion.  I  he 

'.n-  to  cultivate  LTarden-  to 

.-  to  Monina  to  pnrrh.'L-f  c 
\\'h.-ii  Hi-  lad-  r- -turn  to  t!ie  village  of  their  parent-,  a  ea-e  i- 
fibmi'?.  d  to  tli- -n  t-.r  adjiidii-ition,  and  it'  thev  -peak  well  on 
the  point  the  pan-iit-  are  highly  gratified. 


A    NIGHT'S    KXl'KKIKNCE.  21 r) 

Monina  did  not  seem  as  generously  inclined  as  Nyampungo 

had  been,  and  intimated  at  the  first  interview  that  he  wa-  di.-- 
satisfied  with  the  excuses  given  lor  not  presenting  something 
valuable.  The  demonstrations  were  decidedly  indicative  of  an 
attack.  Livingstone  had  reason  to  believe,  however,  that  the 
e! lief  was  personally  more  incline<l  to  favor  him,  and  wa.-  urged 
to  these  demonstrations  by  his  counsellors,  who  had  the  hope  of 
frightening  the  stranger  into,some  payment  which  thev  felt  cer- 
tain he  was  al)le  to  make.  The  war  dance,  though,  left  little 
hope  of  anything  hut  a  fight,  and  Livingstone's  party  lav  d«>\vn 
t»n  their  arms,  watching  silently,  and  only  allowed  themselves  to 
>lcep  when  it  was  certain  that  a  night  assault  was  abandoned. 
During  that  night  of  anxiety  an  unexpected  sorrow  fell  on  the 
party.  Monahin,  who  had  commanded  the  Batokaof  Mokwine, 
arose;  in  the  night,  and  looking  toward  the  smouldering  tires 
about  which  the  people  of  Monina  had  been  dancing,  was  heard 
to  say,  "  Listen,  don't  vou  hear  what  thev  are  saving  ;  thev  are 
going  to  kill  Monahin,"  and  then  turning  about  he  walked  awav 
into  the  forests  and  could  not  be  found.  This  brings  to  notice 
again  the  peculiar  temporarv  derangement  which  is  (juite  fre- 
quently met  with  in  the  tribes  of  Africa.  It  seems  generally 
to  be  the  result  of  some  uncommon  strain  on  the  mind.  Mo- 
nahin was  suspected  by  these  Batoka  whom  he  commanded  as 
being  the  murderer  of  Mokwine;  thev  would  sav,  ''  Mokwine  is 
reported  to  have  been  killed  by  the  Makololo,  but  Monahin  is 
the  individual  who  put  forth  his  hand  and  slew  him.''  It  is 
worthy  of  note  that  while  these  people  have  no  sort  of  compunc- 
tions about  killing  in  battle,  concerning  one  who  kills  a  man  of 
any  standing,  in  a  foray  undertaken  on  his  o\vn  account,  the 
common  people  continue  ever  after  to  indulge  in  remarks,  which 
are  brought  to  him  in  various  wavs,  until  the  iteration  on  his 
conscience  produces  insanitv. 

There  was  hardly  the  slightest  hope  of  finding  the  poor  fello\r 
in  n  countrv  so  infested  with  ravenous  beasts,  but  I)r.  Living- 
stone spent  three  whole  davs  in  the  search  before  he  could  find 
heart  to  go  on.  The  affliction,  too,  seemed  to  a  fleet  the  heart  of 
Monina;  he  aided  in  every  wav  in  his  power;  he  seemed  anxiou^ 
least  he  might  be  suspected  of  having  stolen  tin-  mi  — in.:  m:m. 
and  assured  Dr.  Livingstone  most  positively,  saying,  "  \\  e  never 


l>lf>  T1IK    WITCH-DOCTOR. 

catch  or  kidnap  people*  here ;  il  is  not  our  custom  ;  it  is  considered 
a  guilt  among  all  the  trilx->." 

A-  the  party  left  .Monina's  village,  a  witch-doctor,  who  had 
been  sent  tor,  arrived,  and  all  Monina'-  wives  went  forth  into 
the  field-  that  morning  tit-ting.  There  thev  would  U- compelled 
to  drink  rui  infusion  of  a  plant  named  "  goho,"  which  is  used 
:L-  an  ordeal.  1  hi-  ceremony  is  called  "  muavi,"  and  is  per- 
formed in  thi-  way  :  \\  hen  a  man  suspects  that  any  of  hi-  wives 
ha-  I x.* witched  him,  lie  sends  tor  the  witch-doctor,  and  all  the 
\\ives  go  fbrth  into  the  field,  and  remain  fa-tin-:  till  that  per.-on 
has  made  an  infusion  of  the  plant.  Thev  all  drink  it,  each 
v»ne  holding  up  her  hand  to  heaven  in  attestation  of  her  inno- 
cenee.  Tho-e  who  vomit  it  are  considered  innocent,  while  tho-e 
whom  it  purge.-  are  pronounced  guiltv,  and  put  to  death  In- 
huming. The  innocent  return  to  their  home-,  and  slaughter  a 
cock  :L-  a  thank-offering  to  their  guardian  spirit.-.  The  practice 
of  ordeal  is  common  among  all  the  negro  nation-  north  of'  the 
Zambesi.  Thi-  summary  procedure  excited  I  M-.  Living-tone's 
siirpri-e,  for  hi-  intercour-e  with  the  native-  here  had  led  him 
to  believe  that  the  women  were  held  in  so  much  estimation  that 
the  men  would  not  dare  to  ^r--t  rid  of  them  thu-.  Hut  the  ex- 
planation he  received  wa-  thi-:  The  slightest  imputation  makes 
them  ea^erlv  de-ire  the  test  ;  thev  arc  conscious  of'  bcin^  inno- 
cent,and  have  the  fullest  faith  in  the  muavi  detecting  the  guiltv 
alone;  hence  thev  ;_r'»  w  illiii:_rlv,  and  even  ca^erlv,  to  drink  it. 

The  women  arc  honored  with  peculiar  deference  bv  the  trilx-s 
in  thi-  -ection  ;  tln-v  are  apjH-aled  to  bv  their  hu-band-  to  decide 
important  rind  trivial  «jue-ti->n-;  fi>r  example,  at  the  town  of 
Nvakoba,  there  w:is  a  guide  appointed  to  attend  Living-tone; 
he  bargained  that  hi-  service-  -h-mld  be  rewardei]  with  a  hn,-  ; 
the  l,.,e  wa-  ilelivered  f,  liiin  in  a-l\'aii''e,  ami  he  went  with  de- 
li_rht  to  -how  it  to  hi-  wife,  but  when  he  returned  informed  the 
I'o  tor-  that  hi-  wife  would  not  allow  him  to  m>.  "  \\'ell."  -ai«l 
Living-tone,  "  bring  !>ack  the  hoe."  "Hut  I  want  it."  "Then 
go  with  ii-.  "  Hut  tnv  wili'  won't  let  me."  . \n-l  when  Livtng- 
kti  .ne  -ai-1  to  hi-  in-  ii,  "  I  >i-l  \-oii  ever  hear  -iieh  a  t-  »ol  V  '  thev 
p-plied,  "  <  >h.  t  hat  iv  I  IP-  eii-toin  ill  th'--e  part-  ;  t  he  w  ive-  rule." 
It  ma\'  U-  eomfort  in_r  to  -oine  --t  the  humbler  lord-  of  creation 
to  r-ll'-^  on  thi-  iii' 'nl.  nt,  and  it  ma\  ciie-.iira/-  the  strong- 


"WOMAN'S  KKJIITS."  L'17 


minded  women  who  are  clamorous  for  promotion  to  the 
of  masters  to  know  that  their  dark  .sisters  are  in  hearty  .sym- 
pathy with  them.  It  may  l>e  suggestive1  also  to  mention  tin- 
method  by  which  this  supremacy  is  maintained.  And  let  it  not 

l>e  imagined  for  a  moment  that  thev  are  so  artless  as  to  parade 

« 

their  ambition  in  the  matter,  or  that  they  arc  >o  unwise  as  to 
assert  an  authority,  which  may  l>e  maintained  by  gentler  mean-, 
with  force.  There,  a.s  most  commonly  in  civilized  communities, 
the  power  lies  in  the  feminine  charms,  and  in  the  joy  or  pain  of 
a  smile  bestowed  or  withholden.  Sekwebu  witnessed  the  .-cene 
of  the  incident  mentioned  above,  and  heard  the  man  say  t<>  hi- 
wife,  in  the  midst  of  their  endearments,  "  I)o  yon  think  that  I 
won  Id  ever  leave  you'.'"  and  then  turning  to  himself  ask,  "  Do  yon 
think  I  would  leave  this  prettv  woman  ?  is  she  not  prettv  '.'  " 
Indeed  the  potency  of  beauty  is  no  more  confined  to  our  boa.-tfi;l 
society  than  is  the  song  of  the  birds  confined  to  our  cultured 
groves. 

It  is  not  only  true  that  woman  exerts  a  manifest  influence 
among  the  tribes  of  the  Banyai,  it  is  also  true  that  the  custom^ 
of  social  life  reeogni/e  her  dignity  very  decidedly.  Wives  arc 
not  obtained  bv  purchase  a.s  in  most  parts  of  southern  Africa. 
Tho  fortunate  groom  cannot  assume  any  authority  over  his  new- 
found bride;  he  must  go  to  the  home  of  her  parents  and  live 
there,  and  the  mothers-in-law  of  Africa  are  not  more  careful  for 
the  happiness  of  this  class  than  art'  those  of  other  nations;  the 
poor  fellow  has,  therefore,  sometimes  at  least,  need  of  ve.rv  patient 
love,  and  if  he  has  spirit  enough  to  resist,  he  mav  go  alum*  as  he 
came,  or  indemnify  the  familv  for  the  loss  of'  his  wife  and  chil- 
dren. The  husband,  though,  does  not  seem  to  consider  the  de- 
ference whicr!  he  pays  his  wile  a  hard  service,  but  renders  it  with 
manifest  pride  and  pleasure.  It  is  a  pitiful  excess  of  selfishness 
and  self-conceit  which  makes  a  man  count  it  a  degradation  to 
confess  his  respect  for  the  judgment  or  plea.-ure  of  the  woman 
who  commits  her  life  to  his  keeping  and  consecrates  her  love 
and  labor  to  his  happiness;  and  it  i-  beautiful  promise  of  loftiest 
possibilities  of'  refinement  that,  in  the  midst  of'  so  much  ignorance 
and  depravity,  there  should  be  in  Africa  ever  so  little  rc.-jH.rt 
for  woman. 

But  these  <rentle  and  obedient  husbands,  thouirh  thev  win  oi»r 

o  o  » 


21S  THE    KHIXiX  KIIOS. 

res|>ect  l)v  the  exhibition  of  milder  and  more  amiable  tempers, 
art-  not  the  canals  of  tl  •.•  ruder  triU-s,  in  t  he  jsort  of  courage  which 
distinguishes  im-n  in  the  face  of  the  fenx'ious  beasts  which  com- 
mand the  forest  |Ntth.s  ami  the  tlecp  jungles  of  Africa;  they  eould 

not  Infill  to  COJH-  with  the  interior  tribe-  in  the  more  dangerous 
•-|>«>rf.«>  which  involve  the  slaying  <if  tin-  lion  or  the  rhinoceros. 
Indeed  in  all  Afrii-a  there  is  no  animal  which  present*  a  l>ol(ler 
front  than  this  latter.  There  are  several  species  of  the  rhinoc- 
eros mentioned  bv  different  writers;  thev  si-em,  however,  c:u-ilv 
included  in  the  two  prominent  ela.-.-e-  distinguished  by  their 
color-;  the  black  i-  the  more  dangerous  both  on  account  of  its 
-uperior  strength  and  :t  [Mvuliarlv  morose  di-po-ition.  An  ex- 
pcrieneetl  hunter  a— crt>  that  lie  would  rather  fan-  tit'tv  lion.s 
than  one  of  these  animal-  in  an  exposed  -ituatioii.  The  «ii:ht 
ot'the  rhinoeero-  i-  impertect,  an<l  thi-  alone  furnishes  about  the 
onlv  hope  of  i->4-ape  which  i-  open  to  a  man  who  i-  singletl  out 
|i>r  hi-  rau'e.  (  )\  enoniioii-  bulk  and  ama/in^  strength,  anil 
armed  with  a  horn  "-harp  a-  a  ra/or,"  he  i-  an  ennnv  to  be 
treatetl  with  nio-t  -eriotis  eou-iderat ion. 

Mr.  A  nd'-r-.-on,  whose  adventure  wilh  a  lion  ha.-  IMVII  men- 
tioned, and  a  rath'-r  n-ekle—  hunter,  eame  ipjile  -uddenlv  ii|>on 
•  me  of  the-e  moii-ter-  whieh  had  IM-.  ii  wounded,  and  thinking 
to  make  her  ehair/e  h--r  po-ition  «o  a-  to  olli-r  a  better  opening 
for  lii-  aim,  vent  lire*  I  to  ca-t  a  -tone  at  her.  I  n-tantlv  -lie  r;i-hed 
upon  him  with  dreadful  furv,  snorting  Imrriblv,  and  teariut:  the 
t'roiind  with  her  feet,  while  her  « -\panded  no-tril-  >eenied  -inok- 
in^  with  ra'_re  ;  he  had  no  time  to  note  the  eHJ-et  ot  hi-  luistv  -hot 
be|i»re  he  \va-  da-lied  to  the  ground,  an<l  hi-  L'HII,  eap,  [Miwdcr 
tla-k  and  ball  polish  were  -juninir_r  awav  throtigli  'he  air  \\ith 
the  violence  of  the  blow.  I  lie  tremendous  nionii  turn  earru-d 
ihf  bea-t  -tunil)lni'_p  -onie  di-tanee  In-vond  him,  but  before  he 
i-fiiild  t'u'dv  regain  ln>  \<-<'l  -he  had  turned  upon  him  and  da«hed 
hitii  to  t  h-'  ground  a  -••••ond  t  line,  tearing  hi-  thi^h  open  with  her 
Hiiarp  horn,  and  tnimpl'-«l  him  de-jM-rafelv  m  th<-  du-t.  She 
fie  n  -.-.  in  -d  to  lo-.-  him,  and  a-  h-'  era\\|ei|  awav  to  the  -Inlter 
of  a  ii'-i  _'hi  i.  .nn_r  tree  !),•  -aw  h--r  -oui'-  di-tance  otV  tearing  the 
bu-K'--.  a-  it  in  unap|H-a-ab|e  n_"-. 

Not  «.n!\'  mm,  but  thf  m»-t  t"-r»<-ioii-  b-'a-t-  -hrink  Iroin  an 
pngageujeul  with  the  rUin-n-ero- ;  even  the  lordly  elephant  mam- 


TUIAI-S    AND    ENCOURAGEMENT.  219 

fests  unqualified  fear  in  his  presence.  Sometimes  two  or  more 
of  thc.-M'  terrible  creatures  are  known  to  engage  in  awful  com  bats 
with  eaeh  other;  it  is  then  a  scene  indeed  lor  the  gladiatorial 
ring;  tin?  earth  trembles  under  their  train]),  and  the  horrible 
snorting  and  pulling  sends  a  thrill  i>t'  terror  through  all  the 
beasts  of  the  t<>rest.  The  white  species  was  «juite  extinct  along 
the  eastern  division  of  the  /amlx-si.  It  falls  an  easier  victim 
of  the  hunter,  and  the  native  arrows  and  strategy  together  would 
IH-  a  serious  hindrance  to  its  increase,  but  since  these  have  been 
supplemented  bv  the  powdvr  and  ball  of  civili/ed  warfare  they 
are  fast  disappearing,  even  in  the  more  southern  country  where 
thev  have  been  most  numerous. 

After  leaving  Monina  it  was  important  for  the  travellers  to 
avoid  the  villages,  as  the  people  nearer  the  Portuguese  settle- 
ment exhibited  the,  natural  enough,  disposition  to  tax  them, 
while  in  fact  thev  were  poorlv  able  to  pav  anything.  Living- 
stone's heart  was  bounding  with  eager  anticipation  of  a  welcome 
at  Tcte,  which  was  onlv  a  few  davs'  travel  in  advance  of  him. 
lie  had  not  suffered  so  seriously  as  on  the  journev  to  Loanda, 
but  he  had  endured  manv  hardships.  Much  of  the  distance 
from  the  falls  had  been  performed  on  f<»ot ;  lor  manv  dav.s  he 
had  walked  altogether;  he  had  become  so  thin  that  his  men 
could  any  of  them  pick  him  up  like  a  child  and  carry  him 
across  the  streams;  still  he  had  n<>t  lost  his  spirit.  n<>r  had  his 
interest  in  the  well-being  of  his  followers  and  the  condition  of 
tlu1  tribes  along  his  route  failed  in  the  least.  He  lav  down  on 
the  evening  of  the  l2d  of  March  eight  miles  from  Trie,  and  sent 
forward  the  letters  of  introduction  which  had  been  given  him 
bv  the  Portuguese  authorities  at  Loanda  to  the  commandant. 
It  was  nearlv  two  vears  since  he  parted  with  the  generous 
Englishman  who  alone  supports  the  dignity  of  the  name  in  the 
western  colony.  During  tho-e  two  years  he  had  traversed  all 
the  intervening  wilderness,  with  onlv  the  companionship  of  the 
ignorant  and  superstitious  and  depraved  savages,  and  he  was 
now  dragging  the  line  of  his  explorations  to  the  eastern  coast. 
And  though  the  town  of  Tete  was  several  hundred  miles  from 
the  sea.  he  felt  that  his  succe-s  would  be  complete  when  he 
arrived  there,  because  it  was  the  border  town  of  the  Portuguese, 
and  he  would  from  thence  be  in  the  care  of  white  m«'U  and 


22"  THE  TRAVELLEK'H  KKTK<»I'K<T. 

friend*.  He  wa-  so  fatigued  that  In-  could  nut  sleep,  and  hid 
iniml  naturally  wandered  hack  over  the  long  ami  te<liuu.s  jour- 
nev,  with  it."  -trxnge  ami  wonderful  XVIHTV,  its  wild  associates, 
and  its  wealth  of  singular  incidents.  There  were  the  lofty 
pillars  of  1'ungo  Andongo  towering  grandly  on  the  other  l>or- 
iler  like  the  njoiiuineiits  of  old  forgotten  Titanic  heroes.  There 
wa-  the  wtHiilerfnl  valley  of  the  (^nan^o,  a  hundred  mil«s  wide, 
with  it.-  walls  a  thoii-and  feet  high.  Then  came  in  fiv.-hly  on 
hi-  mind  the  weariness  and  anxietv  of  -iekne.-s  and  detentions 
and  jx'tty  strifes.  The  western  water-shed  next  absorbed  his 
thought  ;  the  floating  along  the  Leeba  and  the  Leeambve,  and 
the  "  welei »me  home"  -o  cordial Iv  extende  1  bvthe  Makololo. 
Then  the  months  of  loving  lal»or  in  the  word  <>f('hri-t,  and  the 
Kiger  watching  l'«r  the  .-lighie-t  evidcnivs  of  gotxl  accomplishes]. 
SoiiK-time^  he  seenietl  to  1  >e  wuiitlering  a-jain  in  the  -t range 
labyrinth  of  river-  which  flow  alnuil  through  the  reinarkahle 
fi--ure>  <>f  the  great  interior  eoiintrv-o  iinnatunillv.  In  the 
mid»t  of  the-e  the  wild  and  grand  and  lovelv  fall-  of  the  Zam- 
ln-.-i  l)iir-t  anew  on  In-  di-lightol  YI-IOH.  The  splendid  lull-* 
and  lofty  range-,  with  their  Ix-atitifnl  vallev-  and  teeming  herd.-* 
and  -tori«-.-  of  war  and  wront:,  -neered  in  turn.  Then  the  gopje 
of  the  Katili1.  And  the  /amlx-i  again,  a  tlmn-and  \anl-  wide. 
Amid  all  ther«e  .see  lie-,  the  dark.  1 1  ii  t  aught .  uncared-for  human 
inhaliitants  were  s«-»-n  dragging  al»oiit  the  I'etter-  of  their  -nper- 
~t  it  ion-;  nnctuiH'ionslv,  indeed,  \>\\\  wearilv.  He  M-«'ine«l  to 
hear  their  ehildi-h  laughter  riii'_riii_r  out  in  the  mi-l-t  of'  wieke<l 
-]M»rt-,  or  their  mournful  ern-s  of  -orrow  on  :ii-<'ount  of  the 
-h:ido\v  ol'  death.  It  \\:i-  no  womler  ;  he  had  heard  them  -o 
I'lN-n.  The  -igh  for  peaee,  tor  <|iii''t,  -\\eet  re-t  ;  that  \\;i* 
eji-an-r  in  hi-  thought*  than  all  el-e.  Then  ardent  hope  was 
liii-v  •  •-tali!i-hing  mi--ioii  station-  all  over  tin-  land,  and  hi- 
pra\-«-r  of  taith  would  almo-t  l»'-otne  thank-giving  a-  he  inia-j- 
iin-il  tii'-  r-  -di-mpt  ion  of  At'riea.  and  -'•••im-tl  to  ^:\/<-  on  it-  lovelv 
vall'-v-  and  moiintnin  rtiiitre-,  all  eloilinl  \\ith  the  •  \  i' Ii  ii.-i-  ot'a 
( 'lii'i-i  i-in  civilization,  and  -i-«-med  to  h«'ar  tin-  -on-j-  of'  prai-e 
floatinj  "Ml  "f  tin-  reiieued  In-art  of  th«-  ••'intment  -o  maiiv  a^e-, 
I«»-t  in  'laikii'---  and  -in  ;  fl'nilin^'  alon-j  th«'  river- .  until  tic'  -«-a 
\\-a-  !iurd«-n'-d  \\ith  \S"r>l-  o''  lo\-«-  and  LTratitnde  !I.MU  \fnc.i  to 
t!ii-  v.orlil,  and  all  it-  nun  niur;ii'j-  \\en-  changi-«l  to  -hunt-  n( 


T1IK    MIDNIGHT    VISITORS.  J2') 

praise.  Oh,  how  fascinating  and  liow  praiscful  is  the  retr<»>|xi-t 
of  yours  nobly  spent  in  the  nervier  of  ('hri.it  1'or  tin-  help  of 
man!  There  is  nothing  grander  in  human  life  than  the  delib- 
erate consecration  of  intelligence  and  refinement  to  tin-  real 
Kerviee  of  the  degraded  and  indifferent.  We  cannot  find  a 
grander  specimen  of  philanthropy  than  lies  before  u-  in  the 
lonely,  weary,  perilous  but  willing  isolation  of  the  devoted  man 
who  was  waiting  in  pain  and  hunger  for  the  dawning  of  the 
day,  and  loved  the  scenes  of  a  life  of  pain  and  hunger  which 
crowded  about  him  and  spread  a  canopy  of  memorv  over  him 
for  a  tent. 

The  stars  were  on  duty  still,  shining  like  the  camp  fires  of 
heaven's  protecting  army,  and  the  heavy  breathing  of  the  dusky 
company  had  been  undisturbed.  It  was  just  two  o'clock  in  the 
morning  when  messengers  arrived  who  had  been  sent  forward 
with  welcome  and  a  civilized  breakfast  from  Tete. 

No  man  could  more  fully  appreciate  such  attentions  than  Dr. 
Livingstone.  He  seemed  unconscious  of  the  weight  of  obliga- 
tion which  liis  life  of  self-sacrifice  was  bringing  the  world 
under.  He  was  only  laboring  in  the  love  of  men  and  xeal  for 
Christ,  and  he  thought  of  no  reward.  No  man  was  more  sensi- 
ble to  the  helpful  influences  of  sympathy  ;  his  heart  bounded  at 
the  words  of  cheer  which  were  brought  him.  The  presence  of' 
persons  who  could  in  any  sort  understand  him  and  sympathize 
with  him  was  like  the  communication  of  new  lite;  his  fatigue 
vanished,  and  he  walked  the  remaining  eight  miles  fre-hly  and 
joyfully.  There  is  wonderful  power  in  sympathy  ;  loving  words 
are  a  medicine  for  the  soul  better  than  all  thing.- — the  specific 
for  all  the  anxieties  of  the  mind. 

The  reception  at  Tete  was  as  cordial  as  could  he.  The  com- 
mandant— Tito  Augusto  d'Aranjo  Sicard — proved  him-elf  a 
liberal  and  attentive  host.  The  Portuguese  authorities  had 
been  informed  bv  the  friends  of'  I>r.  Livingstone  in  England  of 
his  being  on  his  wav  across  the  continent,  and  hi.-  expected 
arrival  in  their  midst;  but  as  there  had  been  a  sort  of'  ( 'affre 
war  going  on  for  two  years,  thev  had  lost  all  hope  o!  his  ever 
reaching  their  settlements  alive.  Quite  lately,  though.  Major 
Sicard's  expectations  had  been  awakened  by  the  arrival  at  Tete 
of  natives  who  spread  the  rumor  that  the  "son  of  (io.l  \\as 


•2'2-l  RECEPTION    AT   TETE. 

approarhincr,  and  that  he  was  ahh-  to  take  the  sun  clown  and 
juit  it  under  his  arm  !  "  The  major  was  convinced  that  the 
storv  w:i-  found"d  <>n  the  approach  of  some  explorer,  whom,  lie 
W:L-  <-o!i\  nil-ill  al-o,  cotiltl  U'  no  other  than  the  man  who  had 
already  a<ii)tnplishttl  the  wonderful  journey  from  the  ('ape  to 
Ixianda. 

( )n  the  (lav  of  hi"  arrival  in  Tete  I  >r.  Livinj*stone  wa>  '*  vis- 
ited l>v  all  the  gentlemen  of  the  village,  lioth  white  and  eoloretl, 
including  the  padre."  Not  one  of  them  had  anv  idea  of  when1 
the  -i. IIP-C  of  the  /a:nbe-i  lav.  Thev  -eiit  tor  the  be^t-travelled 
native-,  hut  not  <>:ie  of  th'-m  kne^v  the  river,  even  a>  far  a< 
Kan-ala  rapids,  which  mav  !«•  -een  indieated  on  the  map,  not 
more  than  thirtv  or  lortv  mi!e>  al»o\-e  the  itinMtieiuf  of  the 
Kafiif.  and  luit  little  more  than  halt'  wav  to  the  "Victoria 
FalU."  <  )ne  man.  who  had  l»e.-n  a  ^n-at  traveller  in  the-oiith- 
we-tern  (-"untrv,  had  heard  of  Livin^r-tone's  di-eoverv  ot'  Lake 
N'^ann,  luit  he  wa-  entir-  Iv  ignorant  that  the  threat  ri\'i-r  tl"\\in_r 
liv  the  t"\vn  where  he  liv.il  came  from  the  interior  of  the  e,>M- 
tinent.  Living-ton.-  had  the  i-.-ward  ot'  hi^  self--.aerifiee  in  the 
(•••rtaintv  that  he  had  not  li.-en  i.llv  ctuplovtil,  hut  that  in  th.-e 
ve;ir-  ot'  wandering  he  had  [M-rformeil  a  -(TVKV  whieh  eentiirie- 
t..  eon)i-  would  l»e  -till  cont'c-rriiiL'  it-  MO-MIL:-  on  the  \\orld. 
He  had  \>,  en  aide  to  e.invet  the  error-  of  philosnphv  and  pivju- 
di'-e,  and  lirinir  to  waiting  ( 'hri-tendotn  the  a--uranee  that  in 
AtVi'-a  there  wa-  a  ti-  Id  n-adv  \'»r  the  -ower,  and  that  thi-  ln'oad 
river,  altoiir  who-e  d.-ha  civilix:itioii  had  heen  -tan<lintr  in  donht- 
f'ul  in1  -tTiei.-iiev  for  eenturie-,  furni.-hed  the  guiding  ix»nl  to  the 
heart  ot'  the  continent. 


CII  APT  KM    XII. 
Tin:  pouTr<;rF>K  POSSF>MONS. 

Th»  Villiure  of  Tfte-Inhabitants  --(i..I<l  Washing-Slaw  Tr:i«Ie,  Kvil  F.flWn  ..f 

—  Deeailenee  of  Portuguese    Power— Sii|NTslitioiis  of  Teu — Kin,'lNh  Calie.> — 
Articles  of  KxjM.rt   -(Jold  -Coal  --Value  of  <ioM  I  )u>t—  Appearance  of  Count ry 

—  Method   of  Cultivatin.i;  the  Soil  —  Airricultiin-    Neglected     Hot    Spririirs- 
People  Favorable  to  Kii^lislnnrii— Cau-c  of  Portuguese  Failure   -Leaves  Tete 
— Nyaude's  Stockade — The  (ion,'*1  of  I.upata     Senna     Tin-  I.andcenv  "r  /.ulun 

—  Misery   of  Senna — Surroiiinlinu'    Country —Tin-    Shire  —  Kilimane-    Liviiu'- 
•tone's  Ohject— His  Theory  of  Minion  Work  — Hi-  Hopes  for   Afriea --Arrival 
of  the  "  Frolic" — Disposition  of  Ivory  —  Parts  with  his  Followers— Sekwehu — 
In  the  Boats  -On   IJoanl  the  Ship  — Insanity  aii'l   Death  of  Sekxvelm  — Arrival 
»t    Mauritius — Dear  OKI   England — Forl>ithlen  Scenes — Public   Honors  — The 
Sin-Ie  Desire. 

THK  delight  which  Dr.  Livingstone  ex})crienceil  in  Ix-in^ 
oiu'o  moro  in  communication  with  people  who  couUl  in  some 
sort  apprwiatc  him  \v:is  fully  justified  l>v  tin;  persevering  kind- 
ness of  Major  Sieard.  There  was  no  attention  within >ldcn 
whii'h  eonld  contribute  to  the  comfort  and  enjoyment  of  the 
i^reat  explorer  who  had  traversed  the  whole  breadth  of  the  con- 
tinent. 

It  was  the  unhealthy  season  at  Kilimane,  and  the  generous 
host  insisted  on  detaining  h'us  guest  at  lca>t  a  month,  until  he 
might  hope  to  go  down  to  the  coast  satMv  ;  and  having  Mvun.-d 
employment  for  his  followers,  he  claimed  I)r.  Livingstone  for 
his  personal  charge.  The  village  it-elf  possessed  no  special 
charms;  it  stands  on  a  sueees.-ion  of  low  sand-tone  ridge-  on  the 
right  hank  of  the  Zambesi,  which  is  here  nearly  a  thou.-and 
yards  wide  (OliO  yards).  Shallow  raviius,  running  jnirallcl  with 
the  river,  form  the  streets,  the  hoii-cs  being  built  on  the  rid^e-. 
The  whole  surface  of  the  streets,  except  narrow  footpaths,  w.-rc 
overrun  with  self-sown  indigo,  and  tons  of  it  miu'lit  have  bn-n 
collected.  In  lact,  indigo,  -eiina  and  stramonium,  with  a 
species  of  cassia,  form  the  weeds  of  the  place,  whii'h  are  annually 
hoed  off  and  burned.  A  wall  of  .-tone  and  mud  surround.-  the 

I'.'O 


2'2A  AGRICULTURE    AND   GOLD. 

village,  awl  the  native  population  live  in  hnt.s  outside.  The 
fort  and  the  ehurvh,  near  the  river,  are  the  strongholds;  the 
natives  having  a  salutary  dread  of  tin-  gun-  of  the  our,  ami  a 
sti]H-i-stitions  fear  of  the  unknown  J»O\VIT  of  the  other.  The 
numlxT  of  white  inhabitants  is  small,  and  rather  sdivt,  manv  of 
them  having  IHVII  considerately  sent  out  of  Portugal  "  tor  their 
(•"uutrv's  good."  The  military  element  preponderates  in 
society  ;  the  convict  ami  "  incorrigible"  das-;  of  soldiers,  nveiv- 
ing  very  little  pay,  dej>end  in  great  mea-ure  on  the  produce  of 
the  gardens  of  their  black  wives;  the  moral  condition  of  the  re- 
sulting jHipulation  mav  IK-  imagined.  Kven  the  ollieers  seldom 
receive  their  pav  from  government  ;  but,  being  of  an  enterprising 
spirit,  thev  contrive  to  support  thetnsclvt*  bv  marrying  the 
daunhters  or  widows  of  wealthv  merchants,  and  trade  in  ivory 
bv  mean-  of  the  -lave>  of  whom  they  thu-  In-come  the  ma-tcr-. 
In  former  times,  considerable  quantities  oi'  grain,  a-  wheat, 
millet  and  mai/e.  w  re  exjHtrted  ;  also  eolltv,  sugar,  nil,  aiul 
indigo,  In^idi-  '/old  du-t  and  iv«>r\'.  The  cultivation  of'  ::ram 
was  earried  on  bv  IIP  an-  of  slavis,  of  whom  the  I'ortuguc-e 
p,,,,,,,^!  a  lar/e  nnmU-r.  The  gold  dii-t  \v;i>  proeiin-d  by 
\v:i~liiiiLr  at  varioii-  point.-  on  the  north,  >onth  and  wr-t  of  Tete. 
A  mereliant  took  all  hi-  >]ave>  with  him  to  tlu»  \v:i«*liinp*,  t»irrv- 
in_r  a-  mii'-li  (-ilieo  and  otlier  good-  a-,  lie  could  mn-ter.  <  >ti 
arriving  at  th«-  washing  |>la<-e,  he  made  a  pnsent  to  the  chid' of 
tli«'  valni-  of  about  a  pound  sterling.  The  .-laves  w«-re  thru 
dividt-d  into  partie-,  each  ln-adeil  by  a  confidential  servant,  who 
not  only  had  tip-  -upervi-ion  of  hi-  wjuad  while  the  wa-liing 
wt-nt  on,  but  l>ought  dust  from  the  inhabitants,  and  mad«'  a 
w«-«-kly  r-  turn  to  hi-  ma-ter.  \\'lien  -everal  ma-ter-  unit.-d  at 
OIK-  -pot.  it  wa-  called  a  "  Hara."  and  they  then  envied  a  tem- 
porary church,  in  which  a  prie-t  from  one  of  the  mi--ion<  [>•  r- 
for:!i-i|  ma--.  iJoth  ehi.-f'-  and  people  \vere  tavorablc  to  tlie*^ 
\  :-:'-.  U-.-aii-e  id,,  trader-  purcha-ed  'jniin  for  the  -u-t«-nani-«-  of 
th"  -lave-  \s  ith  the  L'ood-thev  had  bn.iiu'ht.  They  eont  inueij 
at  flu-  lalmr  until  the  whole  of  the  goods  were  ex|M-nde<l,  and 
bv  (hi-  mean-  alxiiit  OIK-  hundred  and  thirty  pound-  of  ijold  wen- 
annually  prodne»-d.  Probably  more  than  (hi-  \\:L-  actually 
obt:-.:ned,  but.  a-  it  \\.\~  an  artie'r  .a-i'v  «ecreti-d,  (hi-  alone  was 
mbinitted  to  the  authorities  for  taxation.  .\(  |>re-ent  the  whole 


KFFECTS    OF   SLAVE    TRADE. 


007 


amount  of  gold  obtained  annually  by  the  Portuguese  is  from 
eight  to  ton  |M>unds  only.  When  tin-  slave;  trade;  began,  it 
seemed  to  many  of  the  merchants  a  more  speedy  mode  of  becom- 
ing rich  to  sell  off  the  slaves  than  to  pursue  the  slow  mode  of 
gold  washing  and  agriculture,  and  thev  continued  to  export 
them  until  they  had  neither  hands  to  labor  nor  to  fight  lor 
them.  It  was  just  the  storv  of  the  goose  and  the  golden  e^. 
The  cofi'ee  and  sugar  plantations  ami  gold  washings  were  aban- 
doned, (localise  the  labor  had  been  exported  to  the  Brazils. 
Mauv  of  the  Portuguese  then  followed  their  slaves,  and  the 
government  was  obliged  to  pass  a  law  to  prevent  further  emi- 
gration, which,  had  it  gone  on,  would  have  depopulated  the 
Portuguese  possessions  altogether.  As  it  was,  the  remaining 
representatives  of  Portugal  were  little  better  than  none,  so  ihr 
as  asserting  any  authority  was  concerned.  The  late  war,  which 
only  terminated  a  few  months  before  Livingstone  arrived  from 
the  interior,  had  demonstrated  how  unable  they  were  to  cope 
with  the  tribes  about  them  in  case  of  revolt.  Ka>ika  on  the 
north  had  plundered  and  burned  all  the  plantations  of  the 
wealthy  merchants  on  that  side  of  the  river,  and  Xvaude,  who 
had  placed  his  stockade  just  below  the  village,  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Luenya,  had  completely  blockaded  it  during  two  vears, 
so  that  they  had  been  compelled  to  send  overland  to  Kilimane 
for  goods  enough  to  buv  food  with. 

The  priests  at  Tete  had  no  more  power  than  the  captains  ; 
the  church  did  not  amount  to  any  more  than  the  fort.  The 
natives  were  careful  to  keep  out  of  the  range  of  the  guns  from 
the  fort,  but  acknowledged  their  authority  no  further.  So  thev 
kept  out  of  the  church,  but  cared  nothing  for  the  religion.  The 
Portuguese  do  not  seem  to  have  concerned  themselves  about  the 
religious  beliefs  of  their  wild  associates.  Indeed,  they  were 
rather  inclined  to  make  capital  of  the  superstitions  which  they 
should  have  sought  to  overcome.  Certainly  their  metropolis 
mi^ht  also  be  regarded  as  the  metropolis  of  heathen  absurdi- 
ties. Being  made  up  of  the  representatives  of  various  trihc<, 
it  was  also  a  focus  of  superstitions.  Thev  believe  that  manv  evil 
spirits  live  in  the  air,  the  earth,  and  the  water.  These  invi>ible 
malicious  beings  are  thought  to  inflict  much  suffering  on  the 
human  race;  but,  as  they  have  a  weakness  for  beer  and  a  crav- 


•J'JS  CALICO   CL'UKENC'Y. 

ing  for  food,  they  may  Ix-  propitiated  from  time  to  time  by  offer- 
ings of  meat  an-1  ilrink.  The  serj>ent  is  an  object  of  wor.-hip, 
and  hidcoti-  little  images  are  hung  in  the  huts  of  the  sick  and 
living.  Tin1  uneoiitaminateil  Africans  believe  tliat  Morungo, 
the  (in  at  Spirit  who  formed  all  things,  lives  alxtve  the  stars ; 
but  tli»-y  never  pray  to  him,  ami  know  nothing  of  their  relation 
to  him,  IT  of  hU  intere-t  in  them.  The  spirit.-  of  their  de- 
parted aiicc-tor-  are  all  good,  aeconling  to  their  idea,*,  and  on 
-peeia!  occ;L-ions  aid  them  in  their  enterprises.  When  a  man 
ha-  hi-  hair  cut,  he  is  can-fill  to  burn  it,  or  bury  it  secretly,  le-t, 
falling  into  the  hand  of  one  who  has  an  evil  rye,  or  is  a  witeh, 
it  -hoiild  In:  u-ed  as  a  charm  to  aillict  him  with  the  headache. 
Thev  believe,  al-o,  that  thev  .-hall  live  alter  the  death  of  the 
Ixxlv,  but  have  no  di.-tinct  ideas  of  the  condition  of  the  departed 
spirit-. 

The  principal  currencv  of  the  countrv  wa-  ICnglish  calico, 
which  wa-  iveeived  by  the  natives  in  exchange  lor  any  and 
everything  which  thev  had  lor  sale.  Lalnir,  gram,  land,  gold, 
evervthing  ha-  it-  price  in  calico,  and  the  cheapness  of  lalxir 
partii -ularlv  would  almo-t  turn  the  head  «.f  one  of  our  employ- 
ers, wh"-r  life  i-  worried  abno-t  out  of  him  bv  the  -v-tcm  of 
.strike-  \\  iiieh  i-  the  order  of  tlie  dav.  Two  yards  of  unblcaehed 
calico  i~  the  price  of  a  dav'-  labor,  or  -ixteen  yard-  will  hire  a 
man  a  month.  IVovi-ion  i-  ecjuallv  chea|».  In  onlinarv  time< 
two  vard-  of  calico  will  buv  twcntv-foiir  li>wl-,  and  a  hundred 
jKMind-  of  (l.iiir  briir_r  the  >ame  price. 

The  chief  article-  ,,f  export  at  the  time  of  IV.  Livinir-tone's 
vi-it,  in  1  >")»>,  \\ere  ivory  and  -jold  du-t,  and  tln-e  not  in  vcrv 

con-nler;ili|e     ijliail!  It  le-.          1  he      f_'n]d      -i-em-      to      have      been      tile 

temptation  which  lir-t  drew  the  I'ortn-^ne-i1  to  the  Xambe-i  :  but 
it  i-  ijiie-tioiiable  whether  thev  ever  reali/ed  anything  like  their 
liope-  in  tli.-  ijiiantitie-  of  ihe  |>reeioii-  metal  \\Iiich  thev  ob- 
tain' -d.  1  here  ;iri',  ho\ve\-er,  <|ui:e  a  number  of  wa-hiiiLT-  in  thf 
eotintrv,  and  it  i-  jirobubli'  that  the  world  will  vet  tind  them 
verv  lucrative.  I  >i .  Livin^-tom- had  the  opportunity  of  «-xam- 
inin^  tie-  'jo Id  du-t  from  ditlen-nt  part-  to  the  ea-t  and  northea-t 

of    T.  te. 

Koiind  to\\ard    the  we-tward,  the  old    I'ortu_Mie-e   indicat<'  a 
i  \\hich  \\.i-  near   to    Xumbo   on  the  Kiver  I'anvamc,  and 


THE   GOLD    FIKI.DS.  OO", 

called  Dumbarari,  near  which  much  gold  was  found.  Further 
west  lav  the  now  unknown  kingdom  ofAbutiiii,  whieh  \\a-  IDT 
merlv  liiinoiis  for  tho  metal;  and  then,  round  toward  the  ea-t, 
are  the  gold  washings  of  the  Mashona,  or  I'a/.i/.iilu,  and,  farthi-r 
east,  that  of  Maniea,  where  gold  is  found  much  more  abundant  Iv 
than  in  anv  other  J»art,  and  which  IKLS  been  supposed  bv  -ome 
to  be  the  Ophir  of  King  Solomon.  (Jold  from  this  quarter 
was  seen  as  large  as  grains  of  wheat,  that  found  in  the  rivers 
which  run  into  the  coal  field  being  in  verv  minute  .-calf-.  If 
one  leg  of  the  compass  be  placed  at  Tete,  and  the  other  ex- 
tended three  and  a  half  degrees,  bringing  it  round  from  tin* 
northeast  of  Tete  by  west,  and  then  to  the  southeast,  we  nenrlv 
touch  or  include  all  the  known  gold-producing  countrv.  A- 
the  gold  on  this  circumference  is  found  in  coarser  grains  than  in 
the  streams  running  toward  the  centre,  or  Tete,  Living-tone 
imagined  that  the  real  gold  field  lies  round  about  the  coal  field  ; 
and,  if  he  was  right  in  the  conjecture,  then  we  have  coal  en- 
circled bv  a  gold  field,  and  abundance  of  wood,  water,  and  pro- 
visions —  a  combination  not  often  met  with  in  the  world. 

Dr.  Livingstone  had  noticed  some  specimens  of'  coal  before 
reaching  Tete,  but  he  there  found  that  there  were  nine  different 
seams  known  to  the  Portuguese,  all  within  the  circle  of'  gold 
which  we  have  described.  The  coal  had,  of  course,  received 
verv  little  attention,  and  the  gold  was  almost  a-  much  ne- 
glected. The  natives  are  not  so  fond  of'  labor  or  of'  gold  a-  ID 
go  through  the  tedious  process  by  whie-h  the  preeiou-  dust  is 
obtained,  and  thev  onlv  wash  a  little  now  and  then  when  thev 
stand  in  nerd  of  calico.  Thev  had  learned  the  value  of'  the 
treasure,  though,  and  were'  very  careful  of'  it  ;  they  take  it  for 
sale  in  goose  quills,  and  demand  twenty-tour  yard-  of'  e-alico 
for  a  single  penful. 

In  ixe-neral  appearance  the  countrv  where  tlie-e  treasure1* 
abound  is  hi^hlv  picturesque;  the  hills  are  clothed  with  .-tatelv 
Wests,  and  the  lovelv  valley-  threaded  bv  mimei'Dii-  -tivaiu- 
atv  ve-rv  fertile-,  and,  according  to  the  standards  of'  the  cDi 
are  well  cultivated.  The  only  tanning  implement  here,  h 
ever,  as  in  other  part-  of'  Africa,  i-  the  hoe;  the  work  i-  done 
chieilv  bv  the1  women,  too,  as  elsewhere.  After  the  u'rain  i-  once 
ill  the  ground,  a  single'  weeding  is  all  that  is  required.  Th> 
14 


ow- 


H<>T   SI-KINGS    XKAK    TKTK. 

-imp!e  pr<»ce>s  reproents  all  mir  .-nl>-oil  plowing,  liming,  manur- 
ing, and  harrowing,  f>r  in  four  month-  alter  planting  a  g<xxl 
erop  is  readv  t'or  the  sickle,  and  ha-  l>.-eu  known  to  yield  a 
hundred-fold.  No  irrigation  is  required,  lteeati-e  here  there  arc 
gentle  rain-,  almost  like  mi-t,  in  winter,  which  go  l»v  the  name 
of"  wheat--h  owi-r-,"  and  are  unknown  in  the  interior,  where  no 
winter  rain  ever  tall-. 

The  plantations  of  e.iil'v,  whieh  were  a  -onree  of  verv  eon- 
Md'-rahle  revemi"  pnviou-  to  the  ujn-iiin^  of  the  -lave  trade, 
had  IM-CII  abandoned,  and  hardly  a  tree  eoiild  In-  found.  In- 
digo and  -enna,  which  were  mentioned  a-  _TOWIII_^  in  the  streets 
of  Tete,  are  found  ^rowinj  everywhere,  hut  are  allowed  to  decav, 
erop  after  erop  tin  eared  f>r. 

l>nt  we  mn-t  not  tail  to  mention  the  e\i-ten<-e  of  a  numl>er 
of  hot  -priii-r-:  whieh  are  to  1>»-  fmnd  in  th"  neighborhood  of 

I 

Tete.  I  )r.  F/vin'4-tonc  vi-it"  1  one  called  N  vain  I  H  UN  nn  la,  situated 
in  the  li.-d  of  a  -aial!  -In -am  named  .Y'/«'"'i'/<;  ;  the  liitle  -prin^; 
}iul)!»lc-  up  ]n-t  li.--ide  tin-  rivnli-t.  and  a  |_rr.-at  ipiantitv  of  aerid 
-team  wa-  -""ii  ri-:M_r  np  fro'n  the  .j-roiind  adjacent,  al>oat 
:wi-lve  1'i-et  ,-ipiare  <>!'  \\hi--ii  w:.-  -o  hot  that  men  eoii!d  n-.t 
-taii-l  on  it  wi:h  hare  fi-.-t.  Tin-:-.-  \\ere  -"Veral  little  ho!,  -  from 
whieh  the  water  \\ a-  trickling,  l>u!  the  prmeipal  -prinir  wa-  'n 
a  hole  alioiit  a  foot  in  diameter  and  a-  much  in  depth;  Imlt!.!.- 
were  ri-iin:  mn.-tantly ;  th"  thermometer  l>"in_r  a  f"W  -••<•< imU 
in  the  wat<-r  the  mereiiry  Mood  stcadilv  at  l'!<>  .  A  fro_r  whi«  h 
•r!"d  the  exjwriment  ,.;'  a  1-ath  wa-  taken  out  in  a  f  -\  minute-. 
•\.-!l  «  ooki-d.  Th"  st"in",  over  whieh  the  water-  of'  tlii-  -prin^ 
ilowd  were  found  to  ]>••  iii"rii-ted  with  white  salt,  and  the  water 
!/id  a  -aline  ta-t«- ;  almut  t!i"  -prm_'  were  ro,-]^,  -\.-nitie,  por- 
;>!i\rv,  in  Imad  dike-,  and  -_'ii' i--  tilted  on  eil^i- ;  tip  re  \\i-n* 
i'-o  nianv  -jieeitiii-n-  o|  halt-tormed  pumie",  \\;th  L'r""ii--tone 
and  lava. 

lii'l'-d  it  '\a-<  \\ith  e\-i-r-ni"rea-;n_'  int'-ri -t  and  a-ti»ni-linicnt 
t't.it  '  !i"  t  ravel  I-  r  \-,  md.  p  d  over  t  hi-  womh  rt'nl  region  -.  •  riehlv 

•  n  I  «•.-.•  d  and  -o  -  id  ,  v  n  ••_-!'  "I'd.       1  1"  u  a-  -af  ;-:!•  d   from  his  own 

•  \  p-  ;•!•  ;i""  v.  it  !i    th"    A  t!-"-an-  that  a  u  !-••  poli«mv  \\  •  -u'd    find    th" 

],.•.:.!"  IP.  o!.-fa<-!"  t-.  th.-  oin-niiiL'  of  th"  -insular  t  r-  -t-uries 
i  i  * 

uli:"!i  <>.-!  had  pu'  jn-1  in-ar  .'p-njli  to  the  i-,.;i-t  to  In-  i-a.-ilv 
j'.'ind  !••«'  tip  vanjuard  o|'  •  i\  ili/at ion,  and  t!ir  eipujjh  toward 


STARTS    FOR    KILIMANi:.  2MI 

the  heart  of  the  continent  to  insure  tin-  benighted  inhabiia.ii- 
the  helpful  influence  of  the  enlightened  strangers  who  mig!.; 
come  after  the.  wealth. 

It  was  evident  to  him  that  those  whose  failure  was  inscrilwd 
everv where  had  only  failed  because  they  wen.-  not  true  to  th- 
obligations  which  they  ought  to  have  recognized  ;  if  they  did 
not,  the  inanifestlv  selfish  policy  could  no  more  expect  the  favor 
of  the  savages  than  the  blessing  of  (Jod.  He  would  not  judge 
the  Portuguese  or  the  priests  unkindly,  but  he  was  satisfied  that 
neither  captains  nor  priests  could  point  to  a  satisfactory  experi- 
ment in  the  country  around  Tete.  And  the  ruins  of  fi>rt-  and 
churches  told  the  same  story  of  the  lolly  of  the  strangers  rather 
than  the  hopeless  barbarism  of  the  natives. 

When  at  last  the  time  came  in  which  it  was  thought  prudent 
for  Dr.  Livingstone  to  go  down  to  Kilimane,  he  found  the 
generous  commandant  as  thoughtful  for  his  comfort  on  the 
journey  as  he  had  been  assiduous  in  the  attentions  bestowed  in 
his  home.  There  was  abundant  provision  made  for  a  sale  and 
pleasant  sail  down  the  noble  river,  and  orders  were  issued  that 
the  traveller  should  be  at  no  expense  Ibr  supplies.  Full  of 
gratitude  to  God  and  men,  Livingstone  entered  the  large  strongh 
built  canoe  which  had  been  provided  for  him,  and  sat  down  u;  - 
der  the  pleasant  canopy  which  had  been  thoughtfully  supplied, 
and  was  pulled  away  from  Tete  on  the  22d  of  April,  l.S'xj.  II  • 
had  not  forgotten  his  trusty  followers ;  onlv  sixteen  of  them 
attended  him  to  the  sea,  but  he  had  made  arrangements  for  them 
at  Tete,  bv  which  he  was  confident  that  they  would  be  com- 
fortable until  his  return,  if  indeed  (iod  should  spare  him  to 
continue  his  work  in  Africa. 

Just  below  the  village,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  he 
passed  the  ruins  of  the  residences  of  the  wealthy  merchants,  who 
had  been  so  recently  the  victims  of  Ivisaka's  groundless  rage. 
At  the  confluence  of  the  Luenva  he  had  a  view  of  Xyuttde's 
fortress,  which  had  proven  so  formidable  in  the  recent  war-. 
It  is  onlv  a  strong  stockade:  il  seemed,  however,  to  be  con- 
structed of  living  tree-,  and  could  hardly  be  burned.  It  was 
'trance  to  see  a  stockade  menacing  the  whole  commerce  of  the 
river  in  a  situation  where  the  guns  of  a  vessel  would  have  full 
play  on  it,  but  it  is  a  formidable  affair  for  those  who  have  oi:!y 


23*2  TIIK  <;»>K<;E  OF  I.TPATA. 

niu-ket-.  On  oin-  (i"i-:i~i.»n,  when  Nvaudr  \V;H  Attack  oil  Kv 
Ki-aka,  tlii-v  fought  (i>r  weeks  ;  ami  though  Nymide  was  rcnhuvil 
to  eu!ti:i'_r  up  hi-  (i»j»|KT  aukli'ts  !'>r  Kail-,  hi-  enemies  were  not 
aKIe  t"  ent'  r. 

T'i"  _r"i-_'  •  of  Lii|>:it:i  \\as  a  point  of  oin-itlcnihlo  intercut,  and 
!>:.  I/;vi'i_:-t'>Me  -pent  the  niu'ht  »f  the  '_'  illi  «n  a  small  i.-land 
near  it-  •  ntranee  ih:it  IK-  mi^lit  a-rt-rtain  it>  latitude,  \vhirli  he 
f"!i:i.l  to  !..•  lij  .",  1'  |»J"  >oiith.  At  thi-  jMiint  tin-  /amlx-i 
•I'liV'-rje-  ijuitc  -u  Id'-nlv,  and  llo\v»  through  a  LT'T^f  in  a  l"f:v 
r:i:i_r<-  -it'  hilU  \vllit-li  cn>--«1-  it  at  I'ijli!  :i!i_r!r-  ;  «>u  the  \V'-t<Tii 
-'.•}••  the  !••"•!<  ri-«-  abruptly  -i\  i>r  -even  hundred  j',ct,  hut  on 

t'le   e;t~t    tile    rail'_re    i~    -IcipillLT   aild    eiiVel'ed    \\illl    tl'ee-.        The    I'lVef 

in  the  ur,,|-_r,.  j<  ;il«,!it  two  huii'lre.l  vard-  wide,  and  da-hr-  <|iiitt 
i  njietnou-lv  alojpj  it-  tortuous  cliatind,  and  -weej«s  rapidlv 
:ii"M'id  the  litile  iM-kv  j)n>inoni»rie-.  ( '!,;fu;-:l  ;,.,,!  Kan^omha, 
1  nn;ii'_r  d:iii'_r|'r"U-  \vliirljMMils  and  cddie-,  and  wiili'ii-  a_riin  to 
!..:!••-  in  l»r«-adth,  ctul»rarin^r  uianv  Ix-antifnl  i-!and-  whirh  \\cn- 
i  !<•••  tip-  horne-  ot'  jirn-jMTon-  [ilanter-  and  yii-ldrd  va-t  'jiianti- 

t  ie-    .1}'    'J-IMIII. 

T!ie    _r<ir_Te.    a-     mi'^ht       he     e\j>ee[ed,    ha-    lieell      f|\ed     "II      1  >V    t  lie 

n:i'  i  ve~  a-  the  altnde  nf  peeiiliarlv  I urhiilent  deitif-,  \vh<>  an-  -up- 
!»•!-•  1  ?,,  [ir-'-id--  nV'-r  ill"  peril. i;i-  pla«-e-,  fir  the  ^,MMJ  ,,rthe 
i:i;nrv  '.t'  t!i  •--  who  aUeinpt  t-»  p:i--.  liut  whether  then'  are 
-••Irir-  ^o,  >d  or  l>ad,  eeriain  it  i-  that  the  narn>w  pa--  i-  cwvupiitl 
I.-,  oiH-  direj'iil  M-oiir^e :  the  t-et-e  wait-  there  |i.r  it-  viet  im-. 
l'',!'-;»lian!-  al-»  and  ImfTal'..-  tVi-ipient  the  -p,  ,t.  The  e..im!rv 
MM  i-iihi-r  -Lie  ..('  the  river  \V;1-  in  anvlhin-j  hut  a  peaceful  -tate; 
the  -i.iithern  -h-n-e  had  Keen  ravair«il  iveeinlv  K\-  the  ( 'ailVe-, 
h'-r-  eal!-d  I/Pide.-n-  .  .r  Xn'ii-,  and  Ki-aka.  \\\\»  had  no  ]..%•<• 
f.r  j],,.  I',  .r:  T_'II  •-••,  \va-  ravi_Mn:a!l  the  Ma-^.ui^a  count  rv  mi 

the    ..the,'    -ide. 

(  >;i  the  'jTth  th"  partv  re-i1  !i'-d  ^••nna.  \\hi.-h  \\a-  f.und  t"  1  >e 
in  a  e.niditiini  ten  lime-  iii-ij-e  lanientaKIe  than  '!'•!••;  everv 
Kuilduij'  in  the  villije  \\a-  in  aK-ilnt*1  rn;n.  I'he  [.audecii- 
v.-.  ••••  MI  th"  !ialnt  '.t  vi-:t  iii'_r  the  v;!!a_r"  jii-rioiln-all'.'  and  \--\\  in^' 
li:i  •  -in  t!i"  inhaKit  in'-,  a-  t!i"\'  eoti-id'Ti-  1  t!i"  1'  •]•;  u^iie-.-  a 
(•iiii'iM.  r- -I  triKe,  and  the  lialf-ea-ti--.  wln»  in  all  th--  I  '..rl  u.:i:«  -" 
,,,--,  ..;,,•,.  ,-.  ,n-t  it  ut"  an  IMI  i' iriant  ela--,  -eein«-d  \-i  \«  in  league 


SENNA    AND   SURROUNDINGS.  !>;>;> 

While  Dr.  Livingstone  WJLS  there  a  partv  of  Ki-aka's  jx-ople 
were  ravaging  the  lino  country  on  the  opposite  shore.  They 
came  down  with  the  prisoners  they  had  captured,  and  forthwith 
the  half-castes  of  Senna  went  over  to  Imy  slaves.  EncouragM 
l>v  this,  Kisaka's  p<y>ple  came  over  into  Senna  fullv  armed  and 
beating  their  drums,  and  were  received  into  the  house  of  a  native 
Portuguese.  They  had  the  village  at  their  mercv,  yet  could 
have  Keen  driven  off  by  half  a  doy.cn  policemen.  The  com- 
mandant could  only  look  on  with  hitter  sorrow.  He  had  soldiers, 
it  is  true,  hut  it  NVJUS  notorious  that  the  native  militia  of  hoth 
S>nna  and  Kilimane  never  think  of  standing  to  fight,  but  in- 
variably run  away  and  leave  their  officers  to  be  killed. 

The  miserable  state  of  this  neglected  post  beggars  description; 
the  officers  were  none  of  them  paid  by  the  home  government 
and  are  forced  to  engage  in  trade.  The  common  soldiers  had 
now  and  then  received  a  little  calico.  It  is  lamentable  that  the 
door  to  one  of  the  finest  regions  of  the  world  should  have  fallen 
into  the  hands  of  a  people  who  have  done  nothing  more  than 
hold  it  against  the  rest  of  the  world  for  centuries.  If  instead 
of  military  establishments  there  had  been  civil  ones,  and  emi- 
grants with  their  wives  and  plows  and  seeds,  rather  than  mili- 
tary convicts  \yith  bugles  and  kettle-drums,  eastern  Africa  might 
be  to-day  the  rival  of  any  spot  on  earth  in  all  that  makes  a 
pleasant  home  on  earth. 

The  country  around  Senna  was  more  interesting  than  the 
village ;  nature  was  uncon tarn inated  and  afforded  a  pleasing  re- 
lief for  the  thoughts.  In  the  village  the  most  gratifying  sight 
of  all  was  the  negroes  of  Senhor  Isidore  building  boats  after  the 
European  model.  These;  negroes  had  been  instructed  in  their 
work  bv  a  European  master,  and  had  acquired  such  skill  that 
they  could  go  into  the  forest  and  get  out  the  timber,  lay  tho 
keel,  fit  in  the  ribs,  and  fini-h  up  very  neat  boats  which  woul«i 
briiit^  from  £:20  to  I'lOf)  apiece.  This  lilt Ic  show  of  life  was 
refreshing,  in  the  midst  of  so  much  misery  and  ruin;  for  cer- 
tainly slavery  and  immoralitv  had  done  their  work  in  Senna. 
The  European  name  was  almost  despised.  The  native  wives  <>t 
the  white  men  were  little  better  than  slave-,  and  their  children 
received  none  of  the  honorable  regard  which  is  granted  them  in 
Angola.  Dr.  Livingstone  saw  a  son  of  the  former  governor  <•(' 


234  ARRIVAL    AT    KII.IMANK. 

Tele  a  .-lave.  In  Senna  then-  i-  neither  prie-t  nor  school  ;  then* 
are  the  ruin-  of  ehuivhes  ami  o>nvent-.  but  -ueh  ruins  are  u 
>o!ernn  in.H-k'.-rv  ot'  the  ignorantr  and  .-in  wh"-e  blight  rot.s  on 

It  wa-  the  llth  ot' May  In-fore  I  >r.  Livingstone  continued  his 
j  uirnev.  Fort  v  mile-  belo\\  Senna  he  pa— ed  the  confluence  «>f 
t!.-1  Shire,  uhi'-h  we  -hall  have  <Mi-;i>i<m  t"  mention  hereat'ter. 
llelow  the  Shiiv  the  hill  w-urrotindin.,'-  ^a\v  plan-  to  extensive. 
flat-.  Tin-re  wa.-  no  incident  <>f  .-{H-eial  importamv  until  Ma/aro 
wa-  naehed.  At  that  point  the  delta  liejin-.  The  /aml>e>i 
had  no\\  heiv  appeared  more  splendid,  and  the  temptation  was 
NVJ-V  -tron^  to  follow  it  down  t«i  the  -«-a  ;  hut  Livingstone  knew 
that  it  had  l«-en  explored  that  far  up  bv  aimtlr  r  in  who-r  -tate- 
iii'  nt-  he  had  confidence,  and  he  theivil.iv  fell  that  it  wa-  ln-tter 
tor  him  to  follow  the  other  brunch,  although  it  \\'a-  neee--arv  to 
leave  the  l«.at-  and  eaiio,-..  A  -udden  fever  had  -et  in,  a-  it' 
determined  to  <ji\v  him  a  farewell  embrace.  \\  ith  ihrohhmg 
vein-  and  aehin^  temple-  he  t'.ile  1  on  afoot  al<>n-j  the  bank-  ot' 
the  Mntu.  The  fe\vr  contiiiUi'd  ra_riiiLr.  and  the  large  silling 
launeh  whieh  wa-  put  at  hi-  -erviee  by  Senor  Ast'Vttlo,  at  In- 
terra,  \sa-  ti-lt  to  be  trnlv  a  god-end.  Tin-  village  of  Kilimane 
\\a-  reaehed  "ii  the  'J'Mh  ot'  Ma\.  1. sot!,  and  I  >r.  Li\  iiiLr-toiie 
«a-  reeei\e<l  nio~t  cordiallv  into  the  home  of  ( 'olonel  ( ialdino 
.Jo-.-  \iine-,  "  one  ot'  the  In  -t  men  iii  the  country." 

It  had  been  -ixteen  vear-  -inee  the  nii--io|iai'v  tir-t  landi-d  at 
the  ('ape.  Me  had  -pent  nine  ot'  ten  \vars  in  patient  work, 

fe  lehin^r    :u,,l    cli-pe||-inLf    the    ^o-Jie]    nt'  (   'hl'l-t.          Tl)e||    |  U'oV  ide||Ci- 

had  un-eirled  him  and  lie  c<iii!d  tind  no  re-t  tbr  hi-  foot.  Six 
year-  he  had  -p.-nt  exploring  the  unknown  \\ild-.  lie  had 
done  the  work  ot  an  explorer  under  the  m-piration  of  the  -jo-- 
p-  !.  "A-  tar  a-  I  am  mv-elf  eoncrrnifl."  siv-  he,  *' the  owning 
of  til--  new  i-entral  eoimtrv  i-  a  matter  tor  congratnlatim)  onl\ 
in  -  •  !ar  a-  i'  op.-n-  MJ.  a  pro-pi-et  Jbr  tin-  i  leva!  i«in  of  t  he  inhab- 

i'.ll'-.  A-      I      lia\  e    l-l-e\\  hefe       |'e  III  a !'  1^  '  '"I  ,      1      \|e\\      ll|e      e||,l      of     the 

genjraphie.'il  (•  a'  a-  the  IH-^IHIIIII ^  "t  tii«-  iiii--ionar\-  enti-rpri-e. 
I  take  the  litter  term  in  it-  nio-t  extend.-d  -i^niti'-at  ion.  and 

iii'-i'id .'-i\    et!'.,rt    mad'     tor    th.-   amelioration  o(    our   raee,  the 

p; .  .in. ,'  ion  of  a!!  tlio-e  mean-  b\  whieh  '  i"d  in  hi-  pr"\'ldi-lM'«i 
i  •>  ••  .i-kinj-,  and  br;ii_'::i/  all  hi-  dealing-  u  it  h  man  to  a  u'lonou. 


LIVINGSTONES  THEOHY.  £& 

consummation.  Each  nmn  in  his  sphere,  cither  knowingly  or 
unwittingly,  is  performing  the  will  of  our  Father  in  heaven. 
Men  of  science,  searching  after  hidden  truths,  which,  when  dis- 
covered, will,  like  the  electric  telegraph,  hind  men  more  closely 
together — soldiers  battling  for  the  right  aguinst  tyranny- 
sailors  rescuing  the  victims  of  oppression  from  the  grasp  of 
heartless  men-stealers — merchants  teaching  the  nations  lesson* 
of  mutual  dependence — and  many  others,  as  well  a.s  mission- 
aries, all  work  in  the  same  direction,  and  all  etlbrts  are  over- 
ruled for  one  glorious  end." 

His  experience  at  Kolobeng  had  taught  him  that  the  most 
permanent  results  of  missionary  labor  could  be  realized  onlv  bv 
bringing  the  people  into  such  relations  with  other  nations  that 
a  natural  business  interest  would  be  felt  in  their  improvement. 
He  felt  that  to  encourage  Africans  to  cultivate  their  soil  and 
gather  their  treasures  for  an  honest  market  among  Christian 
nations  would  most  effectually  open  the  way  for  the  gospel.  It 
.Vas  his  idea  to  have  the  missions  of  Africa  enjoy  the  protection 
and  fostering  care  of  nations  which  might  feel  themselves  in 
some  sort  interested  materially  in  the  elevation  of  the  tribes. 
In  the  hope  of  this  he  had  traversed  the  country  from  the  Ca;>e 
to  Loanda,  and  from  Loanda  across  to  the  mouth  of  the  Zam- 
besi, and  had  brought  out  assurances  of  inexhaustible  resources, 
in  the  fertility  of  soil,  the  wealth  of  timber,  an  amazing  amount 
of  animal  lii'e,  with  birds,  fowls,  fishes,  etc.  ;  the  profiL-ion  of 
fruits,  iron,  coal,  gold  ;  and  all  in  the  midst  of  people  through 
whose  villages  he  had  passed  unharmed  ;  who  were  wearv  of 
their  own  unsettled  condition  and  eager  for  the  intercourse  of' 
the  white  man.  lie  had  suffered  severelv  in  bodv,  and  had 
made  sacrifice  of'  his  fondest  affections  ;  but  he  was  rewarded  by 
the  hope  that  his  labor  would  be  effectual  in  engaging  the  atten- 
tion of  mankind  for  Africa.  T is  beautiful  to  find  thi.-  noble 
man,  forgetful  of  his  sorrows  and  toils,  recounting  so  happily 
the  kindnesses  he  had  received.  lie  was  a  man  on  whom  the 
smallest  attention  was  not  lost.  His  humility  and  his  independ- 
ence both  forbade  his  making  demands  of  his  fellow-men,  and 
all  that  they  did  for  him  was  accounted  kindness  and  received 
•with  gratitude.  In  all  his  discoveries  he  did  not  fail  to  note 
the  discovery  of  "'a  vast  number  of  good  people  in  the  world." 


23«'>  DKI'ARTfRE    ON    THK    ''  FlJOl.IC." 

Ami  his  heart  wa.s  full  of  devout  thank-  t<>  the  Gracious  One 
\vho  h:i<l  watched  over  him  in  i-v«-rv  position.  and  iniluciuvd 
In-art.-  of  both  black  and  white  to  regard  him  with  favor. 

It  mu-t  have  >evmcd  a  lon^  -i.\  week-  that  he  wa-  waiting  at 
Kilimane.  Hut  at  length  the  "1'Yolie"  arrived.  hrin<;ini* 
abundant  supplies  tor  him  and  i!l">n  to  pav  hi-  pa-sa^e  to 
Knj^land.  The  eight  of  hi-  follower*  who"  had  l»een  allowed  to 
aei-ompanv  their  "father"  to  the  ci-:i-t  were  ea_rer  to  follow  him 
-till.  The  order  of  Sckeletu  t"  them  wa-  that  none  of  them 
,-hould  turn  back  until  tln-v  had  ivaehed  "  Ma  Kobcrt."  The 
-imple  re-oliition  of  the>e  m,D.  acrii-toiucd  to  ab-olute  obe- 
dience, i-ould  hardly  Mihmit  to  the  difltdiltv  of  ep.--in-  the  -ea. 
They  onlv  knew  that  ir/i  ••/••»••/•  their  "father"  mi'_r!it  lead  thev 
\,'ere  to  follow.  Hut  Living-tone  prevaile*!  on  them  to  .^o  back 
t  •  'I  ete,  where  ti.od  wa-  lip-re  abundant,  ami  auait  hi-  return 
f  *  them.  He  \s.i^  e.  .11-1  rained,  however,  to  allow  the  Sekwebu 
I  i  aeeoinpanv  him.  'I  hi-  man  had  !>«i-ii  of  -jivat  -i  rviec.  and  it 
\ri-  hoped  that  it  would  l>e  ix-ncficiu]  to  hi;n  to  be  brought  in 
<•(  ntaet  \\ith  thorough  civilisation.  And  l»-in_r  ;1  ||1:iri  ,,)'  r,._ 
markable  intelli^,  .;,,.,._  Jt  eoiild  hardlv  liiil  to  IK-  of  'jr.  at  .-<  r\  ice 
to  have  him  return  filled  with  re-peet  and  !o\e  for  th"  Kirjli-h 
and  a-piration,  fir  a  nobler  life  ;  hut  how  -adlv  the  hope»  of  the 
ini--ioii:irv  wi-re  di-apj)ointe<l  -hall  be  -een. 

It   will    be    remembered    that    Sek«!etii    hail    committed    lar^e 
ijiiantitie-i   of  ivorv  to    I>r.   Li\-in^-'oin-.  and  commi--ione<l    him 
to    pp.eiire   a    few  artichs.       A     IIKMI    !e-~    -ine.  r<  !v  inlei-e-t.-d  in 
the  h.-atlien,  or  le~-  eon-ejriitiou-,   i!ii'_rht    have  aeted    diili  r.-ntlv 
Ttn-    man  wa-    too   an.  \ioii-    that  no  hurtful    iinr'  --i"ii-  -Inxild 


and  nor  their  -nl«-tanee  —  to  lal,--  t  he  -li-ht-  -t  advantage  of  hi. 
{•o-iti'in  ;  and  altliou.'li  the  !ar;_"-r  portion  «•!'  the  ivorv  \\  a-  a 
•jil'r  to  him-elt'.  he  >toi'ed  it  a!!  at  Kilimar.e,  thai  IP  mijli!  not 
be  t  boii-  ht  to  have  made  ,  ,»]'  '.\  it  h  Se],,  letn'-  pri>perly  .  and  deii-r- 
ii.iied  to  pnp-ha-e  th--  arti-'l'-  b-  bad  opI-P-d  \\ilii  hi-  o\\  n 
mean-,  it  he  -boiil.  1  p  t  urn  a-  h«-  •  \  |"  ••!•  d. 

Tie  \-  lej't    K  ilim  HI"   i'ii    tie-    moniin.:  of  .Julv    I'J'b.      The  -en 
wa-  in  a  ra_'e.  and  t  !i«-  little  boa'-  v,  .  re  to--e.  I   like  -t  ra«-  on  t  be 

m._'h?V       \\a\'e-.  (    )||.         |l|o!'|i|l'       ibiV       \\ep         t  ••'    Illbhlr.'       oil       -otll"1 

U.f'V    efe-t.    tin   I)    ril-bill_'     do-\  ||    'b        -|o],e    th-      II'    \t     Illoln,   lit,    <!l'   V 


HOME    AT    LAST.  237 

would  seem  to  strike  the  very  lx)ttom  of  the  sea,  while  the  wild 
breakers  !->wrpt  over  them,  making  even  the  stout  hearts  of  old 
seamen  tremble.  The  exjK'rienee  of  the  sea  was  new  to  Sek- 
wehu,  and  he  looked  at  his  friend  and  inquired  anxiously,  "  Is 
this  the  wav  you  go?  is  this  the  way  you  go?  "  The  smile  of 
Livingstone  eneournged  him  and  quieted  his  fears.  At  the. 
ship'-;  side  the  landsmen  had  to  be  lifted  in  as  ladies  usually 
tire.  Hut  once  on  board  thev  were  at  home.  The  hearty 
English  welcome  filled  the  soul  of  Dr.  Livingstone  with  inex- 
pressible gladness.  But  he  had  almost  lost  command  of  his 
native  tongue.  Sekwelw  became  a  great  favorite  with  all  on 
board.  But  the  poor  fellow  was  perplexed  ;  there  was  too  great 
a  strain  on  his  untutored  mind.  When  he  had  picked  up  a 
little  English,  he  would  frequently  say  to  his  "  father  "  :  "  Your 
countrymen  are  very  agreeable;  but  what  a  strange  country  is 
this — all  water  together  !  "  Before  they  reached  Mauritius  the 
faithful  man  became  insane  and  cast  himself  into  the  sea,  and 
could  never  be  found  afterward.  After  a  delay  of  two  months 
at  Mauritius  for  the  recovery  of  his  health,  Livingstone  reached 
the  shores  of  his  "dear  old  England "  on  the  12th  of  De- 
cember. 

Who  shall  follow  him  and  violate  with  curious  gaze  the 
sacred  ness  of  the  joyful  meeting  with  his  wife  and  children,  and 
tell  how  fondly  he  clasped  an  aged  mother  in  his  manly  arms, 
and  how  she  thanked  God  that  her  "  boy  "  was  back  again? 
And  who  shall  interview  the  memories  which  crowded  about 
him  as  he  walked  by  the  banks  of  the  Clyde? 

It  is  our  business,  though,  that  all  England  irave  him  wel- 
come ;  that  the  news  of  his  return  was  hailed  with  gratitude  bv 
thousands  who  had  followed  him  with  their  pravers. 

Men  of  science,  statesmen  and  Christians,  cheri-hing  each 
their  different  interests,  accounted  him  their  friend  and  helper. 
The  church  and  government  and  societies  vied  with  each  other 
in  doing  him  honor.  lie  was  concerned  onlv  that  societies  and 
government  and  church  should  love  his  work  and  lend  it  their 
support. 


OH  A  IT  Kit    XIII. 

AT    H»»MK. 

Mf«-t:n/ "i>  .I.-iriu.irT  .~ih  -  I'.^yj.tiau  Hill  ^I'l.-U'li'l  A-»«-!ut>!y  —  SjKfoh  of  I^>rd 
M.i\..r  >|-.-.-h  •  •!'  !'.>h..|.  .•!"  I..-ii<|..ii  S|~-.-.-h  .•("  Mr  K  -I. -rirk  M  ur.-liis..u  — 
J.iviiu'.'.-.in-'t  I-:<-|H.||S<-  l:.-...luti"ii«  >ul  — -rii'li-'!!  Tniv.-N  in  lin-himJ  - 
I'uKlii-  l!!itliii>iiisiii  I'uMir  M.-<-tiu.:  in  M.in.  -!i.-~i-  r  K--  .iuti"ii>  1'uMio 
M..;::i,':it  I.«---i-  A  1  !r.  — •  ••  in  I  K.-»<-  Inn  -us  ( ,.  -u.  -r..u-  I:i\  .iir\  •  ..f '( 'iii.-s  ami 
l:i..titi!ti..iis  Pn-.'!iU!i..ii  ..('  i In-  I'r. -.-I.. in  -t  1. ••:,•!•  n  !•  l.i\  ii^'-t..n«-  I>i«tiu- 
U'ui«ti'-'l  l'fr~'ii.i,'«-s  (  '•  iiij.Iiiai  nl.iry  A'l'ir<->»<->  1  r.  n. .!.•!.  u-  Ai'pliiUM1  — A 
IU  .lutif'i!  <  :i>k--;  IIII|>--MII,'  i  ••ri-:n..i.\  1'.  -'k-\\  r:!iu^  I  >:!)i.-;iliii-»  Mir- 
jiri-<-'l  liy  t!u-  A  |'|"-ar:ui'-<-  -I'  .1  |{-.^ii-  !'.•  .k  Kx|i!.tiiiili<>n  Aiiii"iiii<->-iii<-!i(  nf 
}>r.  Liviiu-.tMUc1.  H-'k  Tw.t.li.-lh  TI...IJ-.III  I  :a  MX  \V,-.k«  IV.-  t  ,„„- 
.».•::!»  l:\tr.trt  Ir-.iu  !h.-  I..,n.l.,n  !•  i-l'i'nf  th:it  I  >.i!.  I  ll.  .;»..("  t!,,-  I'-.-k 
l:.'.-r.--t  in  ('..iiiin.-ri-i.il  !'r>  -(••  ••-...!  Al>..;i  Ii:t«r.-t  iii  M.^-I-US  A.-:i..n  i.f 
M  :«si"i,:irv  >.»-;.-u.--  Ii:\  ::  ili.ni^  to  '  >  \l-r.l  .i:i.|  <  ;iiiiKri.i_'.-  <  ir:in-l  A  ^^••niSlv 
a:  <  .unlir:-!,-.-  -'Ih.-  ll.-.-.  j.I  ;.-u  •.['  I.i\  i:i_--!..;i.-,  Ai-.-..r.l.u^  1.  J'r  >:"••>»•. r  >.-.i^- 
i.i.-k.  l:.-.-.-|.ii-..'i  "I"  \\.ir  \'.:.r.ui-  '  •! "<  !i.uir.-ll..r~  <  >I  tin-  l^iu-.-n— N..M- 
•  I  T--  11-  ,irt\  tli. in  tli.it  "I"  I.i\  ill^st.ilir. 

Til  i:  jm  •-••iir.'  nl'  I>r.  I  ,i\  inur-!"ii<-  in  Kn^hiiul  ilt-fprin-d  tli«. 
int«  r--t  in  tin-  '_riv:it  cnti-r|iri-f  wliicii  had  rnuapil  hi-  heart  -•> 
tull\',  and  in  mniiiftiiii]  uith  \\hii-li  In-  had  cnnniiaiidcd  the  n-- 
s|"-<-t  nt'thf  imhli-'t  and  ui"-t  intelligent  nirn  ><\'  ihi-  land.  Flu1 
Lrr'-at<--:  n-|H<-t  \\  a-  paid  him  in  |>niilie  and  pn\'at<'. 

<  >n  tlii-  "dh  »\  .lannarv  a  lai'Lr'-  :ind  -pl'-ndid  a--i-ml>!v  lilhtl 
tin-  Lrrand  I'.JN  jit  i:tn  Hall  in  tin-  .M:iii-i<'ii  Il"ii-i-.  \\hi<h  had 
!>•••  ii  i:''ant«-d  liv  thi-  LI 'rd  Ma\<>r  "t  I/i'iidmi  lur  tin  |iiii-ji«i-t-  ><\ 
]iri  •-••nt  in  j  a  t'-!  inii>nial  ti>  1  >r.  Living-tune  t'-r  tin  -i-rvire  rni- 
d'l-'d  1>\  him  In  i-Mtn  ini-rcr.  -r|.|).-.  and  <-l\  lli/at  \«u,  !>v  hl> 
d:-'-iViri'-  in  ^.iilih  AlVii-l.  'I  In-  I. "id  M.L\II|-  |H'i  -idi-d.  and 
i  Mii-iH'  ii"U-  in  tin-  a--'iiiMv  \\i|-i-  thi-  lii-h'iji  "I  L»ndiiii,  the 
1 1.-1,'  .|>  •  •;  \  i  '•  «r:a,  varinil-  tin  ml"  r-  "t  1  Vir!  iam>  n! .  d  i-t  ;n-jii!-hi  d 
f  i  i'.  ••',}•  i-  a:.d  in-  ii  "1  -.-I'D. ••.  1  >r.  Li  \  i  M_-:.  Hi.-  \\a-  n-i-i  ivi-«l 
v,  ;'  (i  _'!'.  i!  '  lit  hll-ia-lil.  lip  L"!  d  M  .1 '.  '  n'  - ')  ••  -li-  d  !  In-  m-  •  -U  n^ 
\\  itii  a  !;:'  !••  -|M  .  .-h,  in  u  hii-h  h--  "  vent  IIP -d  t"  a--  rt  t  hat  t  he 

!:i"-t      _'I  a'  it\  i  !l  _'     i-\i-||t      ••iiliMt  i-t'-'l      \'.i'll      Is.-      Ill.lV.ir  lit  V     \\.1-.    that 

I:.--    llr-t    ni'-'-tin^    in    tip-    hail   \\  a-    t'-r    th--  |>ui'j <>!'  j-.i\  inj  a 


RECEPTION    IN    LONUON.  230 

national  tribute  of  admiration  and  prai>e  to  Dr.  Livingstone, 
the  great  traveller  in  South  Africa.  His  derided  committal  of 
himself  and  the  English  people  to  the  great  work  of  Airiciin 
exploration,  and  the  uiKjualitied  expressions  of  sympathy  with 
the  great  and  self-saerifieing  man  whom  they  now  claimed  a> 
thcir  guest,"  were  most  heartily  indorsed  \>y  the  cheers  and 
vollevs  of  applause  which  hailed  almost  every  sentence,  and 
only  subsided  in  ix>peet  for  the  distinguished  Bishop  of  London, 
who  was  next  introduced.  The  bishop  assured  the  audience 
that  he  accounted  it  a  great  privilege  to  be  permitted  to  meet 
together  in  the  greatest  metropolis  of  the  world,  to  express 
thanks  to  Divine  Providence  lor  allowing  Dr.  Livingstone  to  be 
brought  back  in  safety  from  the  perils  which  he-  had  undergone, 
and  thi'  meeting  he  trusted  would  be  permitted  to  hope,  that 
when  he  was  about  to  return  to  that  country,  where  his  heart 
was  devoted  to  the  service  of  the  Lord,  the  same  providence 
would  continue  to  protect  him.  It  was,  indeed,  most  gratifying 
to  meet  here  to  express  an  opinion  of  what  Dr.  Livingstone  had 
done.  It  was  most  gratifying  to  find  that  civilization,  the  spirit 
of  commercial  enterprise,  and  the  missionary  cause  should  go 
hand  in  hand  :  in  the  person  of  Dr.  Livingstone  they  had  all 
these  three  united.  There  was  a  lesson  for  themselves  in  this 
great  man,  which  probably  those  whom  he  addressed  would  not 
be  slow  to  applv  :  that  thev  ought  never  to  separate  common 
secular  pursuits  from  those  thai  worked  the  glory  of  God.  "A 
few  years  ago  it  was  said  that  the  age  of  heroi.-tn  was  passed  ; 
but  the  lie  had  been  given  to  that  by  the  brilliant  instances 
which  had  recent Iv  occurred.  And  whilst  thev  celebrated  those 
eases  at  home,  it  was  gratifying  to  find  that  in  far-distant  fields, 
uncheered  bv  applause,  this  man  whom  thev  met  to  honor  car- 
ried on  his  heroic  enterprise,  deserving  and  commanding  the 
praise  of  his  countrvmcn  more  than  others  to  whom  they  had 
been  ready  to  award  it." 

Several  other  distinguished  gentlemen  addressed  the  audience, 
among  whom  was  that  generous  and  devoted  friend  of'  Dr. 
Livingstone,  Sir  Roderick  Murchison,  the  learned  devote.'  of 
geographical  science  and  president  of'  the  Royal  Geographical 
Societv.  Dr.  Livingstone  found  great  difficulty  in  responding 
to  these  cordial  and  congratulatory  speeches;  his  tongue  had 


•i.jO  COMMKNDATOUY    RESOLUTIONS. 

IH.VII  loir.;  accustomed  to  other  dialects  ;  the  language  of  Africa 
lunl  become  more  familiar  than  that  of  his  mother.  He  could 
little  more  than  thank  the  assembly  for  the  honor  and  sympathy 
which  In-  received,  and  promise  them  tin:  opportunity  of  read- 
ing at  their  lei-ure  aeeoiints  of  his  wanderings  in  the  benighted 
land  which  had  excited  .-o  much  eurio-itv  and  enlisted  -o  deep 
an  intere-t.  And  among  the  interesting  notices  of  the  meeting, 
which  mav  be  found  in  the  papers  of  the  day,  were  the  following 
re>ol ut ions  offered  l»v  the  Bishop  of  London  and  Sir  Roderick 
Murchi-oii,  and  mo>t  enthusiastically  carried: 

"  1  \i\-  meeting,  consisting  of  merchants,  banker-  and  other-, 
eiti/en-  lit'  London,  herebv  p re-en i  lh\  Livingstone  their  -inn-re 
(iingratiilations  on  the  -ignal  <-arc  and  protivtion  «»!'  I>ivine 
I'rovidenet'  vouchsafe  1  to  him  throughout  hi-  prolonge»l  and 
jit-ril"ii>  labor-  in  exploring  the  interior  of  ^<iinh  Al'rii-a;  the 
miftin-j  «'heri-he>  the  gratitVinir  aviintnee  that  the  important 
di-ciiverie-  of  l>r.  Living-tone  will  tend  hen-after  t»  ad\'anee 
the  intere-t-  of  civili/^ition,  knowletlge,  commerce,  freed  "in  and 
religion  among  the  numi-roii-  trilw--  and  nation-  .•!'  that  va-t 
continent." 

The  resolution  of  Sir   Roderick  Mun'hison  W;L-  •.•hanieteri-tie 

•  ftlie  man  who-c  i;enero-itv  \va-  the  handmaid  of' hi-  greatne--, 
and  who-c  -eii-r  ot  ju-t  ice  wa>  e<pial  to  In-  learning ;  he  moved : 

"Thi-  meetiii'j.  hii:lilv  appreciating  the  intrep'ulity  and  per- 
.-everanei-  «.}'  \)r.  LiviiiLT-toiie  in  hi-  extended  and  dangerous 
joiirne\  -,  deem-  it  ineninbent  to  originate  a  [Mfiiniarv  tribute  as 
an  e\pre--i<»M  ot  their  admiration  and  gratitude  f'nr  In-  di-in- 
tefe-t.-d  and  -elf-<lenving  labor-  in  the  ean-e  of  -ei.-iice  and 
jihilanthn  -pv." 

'1  he  mi  lin-ia-t  !<•  a.— einblv  wa-  onlv  too  ea^'er  \'«r  an  oppor- 
tunity "t"  e\-pl'.--ilr_r  ;m  intere-t  -•  i  UKlf.ri"/  ill  -t|eh  a  Ml  III  aild 

*-i;eh  an  enti  rjin-e.  and  their  'jeiiernii-  i  untribntioii-  ui.di  r-. •,,[•,•, 1 
th'-;r  \\»r.  1-  •.(  l<i\-c  and  c|ii-»  r.  \\  ith  -neh  an  introduclion,  u 
wa-  ii"t  to  U'  c  \|,.-ete<l  that  a  year  in  Kngland  <-"iii.|  !»•  a  year 
ot'i'e-t  and  retirement  \>-r  \*\'.  Livin^tum-.  \'ari"ii-  c..mmuni- 
tie-  (|'--:r--d  t"  hoii'ir  him,  and  he  c..uM  n<>t  refn-e  jli,-Jr  invita- 
ti-.n-,  -o  e.ui'lid  and  complimentary,  i!'  If  had  ip-t  e,,n-i,l,  r,-,\ 

•  very    -neh    o.ra-i^n    a    'j"M--n    "p|><  (i"t  unit  v    I'-r    impi-e--in^    the 
treinendou-  - -on-e.jU'  IP  e-  (.('  African  exploration  and  i  \'aiiL'eli/.a- 


MAXriIKSTKK    MKKTl.M;.  241 

tion  on  the  minds  of  his  (el  low-country  men.  Thoroughly  iin- 
presM'd  with  the  conviction  that  the  true  system  of  cvaiiLr<-li/:i- 
tion  in  such  a  country  should  not  despise  the  humbler  a^em-ie- 
which  seek  only  the  narrower  aims  of  the  present  existence,  it 
was  his  constant  endeavor  to  awaken  and  deepen  the  interest  of 
his  countryman  in  the  commercial  offerings  of  Africa.  The 
diligence  and  enthusiasm  with  which  he  was  all  the  time  striv- 
ing to  cnl i<rh ten  the  i>eonle  before  whom  he  appeared  concerniii" 

noil  II  O 

the  agricultural  and  mineral  r«  sources  of  the  wild  continent  is 
explained,  not  by  the  deeper  interest  which  he  tell  in  such  matters, 
but  the  eagerness  with  which  he  sought  to  bridle  the  mightv 
energies  of  human  interest  into  the  service  of  Christian  missions. 
Xor  was  he  unsuccessful  ;  all  Kngland  became  arou.-ed  ;  there 
were  meetings  in  all  quarters,  eager  to  hear  at  his  lips  accounts 
of  the  wonderful  possibilities  which  lav  connaled  in  the  l'ore.-ts 
which  he  had  so  heroically  penetrated  and  passed  through  from 
sea.  to  sea.  The  members  of  the  Chamber  of  ( 'oiuin<T(v,  Com- 
mercial Association  and  Cotton  Supply  Association  assembled 
in  the  Town  Hall,  at  Manchester,  and  extended  him  a  most 
hearty  reception,  lie  addressed  them  on  the  commercial  pro- 
ducts and  prospects  of  Africa,  calling  particular  attention  to  the 
capacity  of  the  continent  for  growing  cotton.  The  deepest  at- 
tention, and  questions  betraying  a  real  interest  in  the  matter, 
evinced  the  power  of  the  facts  which  ho  stated  and  the  argu- 
ments which  he  educed  ;  and  at  the  end  of  his  address  the  fol- 
lowing motion  was  put  and  carried  : 

"That  this  meeting  desires  to  express  its  warmest  thanks  to 
Dr.  Livingstone  for  his  visit  to  Manchester;  to  record  their  ap- 
preciation of  the  importance  of  his  discoveries;  their  hi^h  >ense 
of  his  noble  exertions  for  the  extension  of  knowledge,  as  well 
as  his  self-devotion  in  again  seeking  to  visit  those  hitherto  un- 
explored countries  with  a  view  to  their  eivili/ation  by  the  aid- 
of  Christianity  and  commerce;  that,  feeling  a  deep  inT<-re-t  in  the 
self-denying  labors  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  this  meeting  earne.-tlv 
requests  her  Majesty's  government  will  place  at  his  disposal  a 
steamboat  duly  appointed  and  capable  of  ascending  the  navig- 
able portion  of  the  Znmbesi,  with  such  further  accommodation 
in  boats  and  otherwise  as  may  be  deemed  sufficient  tor  the  ex- 
ploration of  ite  tributaries,  and  for  obtaining  and  retaining 


2-12  MEETING    AT    LEEDS. 

friendlv  relations  with  the  natives  of  that  interesting  region. 
And  the  pnblie  bodie-  now  assembled  pledge  themselves  to  use 
their  utmost  exertion-  tor  the  promotion  of  these  objects  ;  that 
this  meeting  desire  to  impress  on  her  Majesty's  government  their 
earnest  de-ire  that  the  aid  of  the  Portugm--e  government  should 
be  esjKviallv  requested  towards  facilitating,  in  everv  jM»s>ible 
manner,  the  further  researches  of  Dr.  Livingstone  in  the  interior 
of  Africa,  and  more  osjM'cially  in  the  districts  surrounding  the 
rivi-r  /anihe-i  ami  its  tributaries;  that  a  Mib-committee  of  the 
following  gentlemen,  beini;  the  chairmen  of  the  public  bodits 
here  assemble!  1,  be  empowered  and  requested  to  carrv  out  the 
n-olutiou  of  tin-  meeting,  with  j>ower  to  add  to  their  numlxT  : 
Mr.  John  Ch.-etham,  M.  P.,  Mr.  .1.  A.  Turner.  M.  P..  and  Mr. 
'I  homas  !>a-lev. 

Shortlv  after  the  meeting  in  Manchester,  I>r.  Livingstone  wa« 
called  on  to  address  an  a-j-jre-jat*1  meeting  of  the  Le«-d-,  Brad- 
ford and  Halit'ax  Chambers  of  Commerce,  in  the  Lee,!-  Sti.e!< 
Kxehange.  The  meeting  received  him  with  great  iv-p.i-t,  and 
added  th'-ir  voice  t  >  the  resolution-  pa— e<l  at  Manche-ter.  Tin 
commercial  chamlx-rs  of  \\e-t  (tiding  cairn-  in  with  their  in 
dor-ei|)i  nt .  and  calle.  1  on  the  counts'  members,  Lord  \  i~e<nint 
( iodendi  and  Mr.  Kdmtind  Denison,  lor  their  intluence  in  -ii|>- 
port  of  the  explorer.  The  .-perch,  in  which  Lord  (loderieh 
re-|.ond'-d  to  the  call,  was  a.-  cordial  and  llatteriiiLT  a-  could  \>f 
de-ired.  In  the  coiir-e  ot'  it,  he  -aid  :  "  \\  hen  we  con-ider  tin 
va-t  industries  in  Knglaml  which  are  altogether  dc[H-n<lent  on 
the  regular  and  exten-ive  -upj'lv  of  cotton,  can  we  doubt  that 
1  >r.  Li  vi  TILT- t  one's  di-rovcries  are  (>f  the  Create- 1  polit  ii-il  intere-t 
to  the  cotmtrv  '.'  \\  e  oii_rht  to  have  the  mean-  of  drawing  our 
-Upplps-  of  cotton  tVoiu  variou-  -oup-i--  ;  we  -hoiild  !•••  a-  iparlv 

in«lependenl    "f   1 il    , -j r- -I i in -t:i if. •-   a-    po--ib!e.  fl.r  the--    l'"-al 

eirciim-taiice-  nn_'ht  afl'-.-t,  at  anv_dav,  both  the  -om-ei,-  :md  ex- 
tent oj  the  -upplv."  I'.ut  hi-  lord-hip  would  not  !•«•  undei-t 1 

a-  adv'-- at  jn_r  th,.  view-  of  I  >i\  Li  vin_r-tone  and  -ii-taiiiin_-  hi- 
•  •ni'i-pr;-  -o!i!v  on  commercial  groiiml- :  he  enter,,)  ••  nio-t 
lii-artilv  i;,?o  tho-c  higher  motive-  \vhii-li  actuated  th-  hero  mi-- 
i /at  ion  an  1  <  'liri-tianilv  in!"  -•  di-fant 
r-  -_'ion-." 

^MC!I   \\a-  tic-  jut.  [-,-(   \vhieh,  -pn-ading  iM'Vond  all  in:--;onary 


FREEDOM    OF    I.OKDOX.  J}  5 

noeieties  and  cm*!  lines,  was  preparing  the  English  people  t«> 
adopt  as  their  honored  and  trusted  agent  the  man  \vhn,  nnd<  r 
all  circumstances,  avowed  his  absolute  consecration  to  the  con- 
version of  Af'riea  to  Christ,  which  \vas  ripening  the  ivipie-t  in 
the  heart  of  the  nation  that  the  elinreh  would  suffer  their  in:-- 
sionarv  explorer  to  heeoine  an  cxj)lorer  missionary.  Such  was 
the  interest  which  caused  a  hearty  rivalry  between  city  authori- 
ties and  commercial  unions  and  scientific  societies  in  bestowing 
on  this  humble,  earnest,  consecrated  man  th"ir  highest  honors. 
Various  cities  presented  him  the  freedom  of  their  corporations 
The  ceremony  of  this  attention  in  London  was  peciiliarlv  im- 
posing. "  On  the  21st  of  May,"  says  the  l/fiuttrtttcd  London 
A^rx,  "the  Court  of  Common  Council  presented  an  unusually 
gay  appearance  in  consequence  of  the  attendance  of  a  number 
of  ladies  to  witness  the  ceremonv  of  presenting  J)r.  Livingstone 
the  'freedom  of  the  eitv,'  as  a  testimonial  of  his  xeal  and  per- 
severing exertions  in  the  important  discoveries  which  he  has 
made  in  Africa.  Dr.  Livingstone  was  introduced  amid  great 
applause  by  Mr.  J.  K.  Sannders  and  Alderman  Ko-e,  the  mover 
and  seconder  of  the  resolution  ;  and,  after  the  declaration  of 
freedom  was  read,  was  addressed  by  Sir  John  Kev,  Bart.,  the 
Chamberlain,  in  a  highly  eulogistic  speech,  in  which  were  fnllv 
detailed  the  difficulties  overcome,  and  the  benefits  to  science  and 
art  achieved  bv  his  indomitable  xeal.  Dr.  Living-tone's  addtv-s 
in  replv  was  vehemently  cheered  ;  and,  after  receivin'_r  the  con- 
gratulations of  the  Lord  Mayor  and  the  principal  members  of 
the  corporation,  and  of  the  lady  mayoress  and  several  ladies,  lie 
retired  amid  great  applause." 

This  testimonial  of  the  eitv  government  wa-  presented  in  a 
beautifullv-ornamented  casket,  designed  and  manufactured  bv 
the  best  skill.  The  box  itself'  wa-  of  African  oak.  with  repre- 
sentations of  miniature  palm  trees  in  frosted  silver  at  each 
Corner.  On  each  of  the  four  side-;  there  wa<  a  silver  plate.  On 
that  in  front  was  engraved  the  resolution  of  the  court  ;  that  at 
the  back  represented  an  African  scene,  with  the  doctor  exploring 
a  river,  and  at  the  ends  \vere  science  and  commerce  in  hold 
relief — science  surrounded  bv  a  globe,  compass  and  telescope; 
commerce  by  coal  pits,  shafts,  etc.  The  lid  was  surmounted  by 
a  group  of  figures — an  European  holding  the  hand  of  friendship 


241 


Tin:  VKXATiors  H<X>K. 


to  an  .vfriran  u:nh  r  a  palm  tree.  Sueh  a  de-ign,  so  highly 
eharaeteri-t ie,  executed  hv  the  nio-t  eX'piiMte  -kill,  was  a  Ix-au- 
tiful  e\pre>-i'>n  "f  the  appreciation  whieh  \\a-  as  thoughtful  a* 
it  was  ard.  nt.  Sueh  an  expression  of  regard  ami  appreciation 


mi  tin-  part  i«f  tin- 


ili'jtiitarics   in 


_rht    have   turned    tlu> 


head  nf  a  !•  --  earne-t  man;  l>iit  I  >r.  I.i 
in  the  jn-at  u'ork  to  whieh  In-  I'-'.t  that<l»l  hail  ealh-d  him.  ami 
t«i  \\hiili  he  had  .-<>  willin^lv  devoted  him-'  It'.  Amon^  the 
maiiv  en.ra'..'.  tii'-nt-  which  iiMed  hi~  tini«-,  n  •  >i  the  }<-.i-[  important 
<-r  !al"'ri"!i*  !>v  far  \va>  the  pn-paration  nf  hi-  voiiuninous  ar- 
(•'iiint  of  hi-  .-ixteeu  \ear-  in  S.nitli  Afriea.  Those  who  have 
never  undertaken  the  making  of  a  1  .....  k  have  vet  to  learn  the 
A  1>  <  '  of  -vmpathv  ii-r  thcist.'  who  funtrilmic  >o  imjiortant  a 
part  i'f  our  happinc>s.  A  V"lnme  of  -ev«  11  huudretl  elo>e]y. 
printed  pa_re-,  made  up  lai'LTelv  fro  in  memoranda  \\ritteii  years 

Iw-fore,  in    the    mid-t    of'  t-VtT^'liangin^  >er||e<  --  Written,  ti«'.  Milder 

the  ^reat  di-advanta^e  ot'  having  ;_rro\vn  unu-ed  t"  lii-  nalivp 
ton_riii  —  \\a-  it~elf  a!  iimdant  txi-iipatinn  fin'  a  r<#f  iji'ttr.  The 
work  -ei'iii'-d  to  ppi'/re-s  verv  >l"\\l\-  ;  >e\-(  ral  tini'-  the  active 
man  —  \\lio  e.dild  perform  n»!>le  deed-  more  rapidlv  than  he 
emild  reeMimt  thein,  and  ei.nld  >nH'<T  with  a  li<-tler  reli-h  than 
he  emild  eiiinplain  —  \\  :u-  on  the  pi>mt  ot  ahandonin^  the  luMik 
that  he  mijht  ha-ten  \«  the  .-erne  «  if  fre-h  lahor.-  and  lieu  ad- 
Venture-.  It  i-  hardlv  -nrpri-in^  that  he  exhihited  rather 
unii-nal  annovaiur  when,  Yerv  um-xpccutllv  one  line  autumn 
morning',  hi-  eve  read  the  advert  i.-ciurnt  o|'  the  "  Travel-  o!' 
I>:iv:d  Living-tone  in  Snuth  Al'riea."  l»v  an  auth"r  unknown  t<i 
him,  wh".  ilepeiidiiiL:  onlv  on  in  \\  -pap'  r  art  ie!e-  and  (  ieo^raphi- 
•  iil  Soeji'tv  re|i"rt-,  had  e.mie  )»•!'..  re  the  piihlie  \\iili  hi-  \\ork, 
•f.  hi!'  th-  r'-:tl  h'  r->  of  the  -t.irv  \\  a-  -till  Lfr-'.-Min-j  over  th--  un- 

fllli-ll'd    ehapter-    '.fill-    hunk.         The    -.-\-e|'itV    "f    the    d»e!'>r    llp"ll 

t!ii-  auih"i-  and  "ii  th'-  jtulili-h'T*    a-  \\ell   \\a-  li'arful  ;    hut,   like 


wa-  pi'i  par:  n  j  an  a'-e.  i-int  "f  hi-  »\\  n  ad  vent  in  ••-  and  di-en \-erii-, 
th'-v  thi'.v,  av.av  tlnir  lain. r  and  ih-'  iii"ii''\'  th'-v  had  .A|.<n.l.d, 
liy  -upp!''---iir_r  tl'e  i  >• ..,].,  entirelv,  and  th>'  pulilie  ap]»'ti[i-  wa- 
1'iilv  ••.  h.  tt.d  !iv  th.  in.  id- -nt  l'-r  the  r-'-al  \\.-rk  •.('  I  >r.  I.ivimr- 
-t"ii'',  v.hi'h  \'.a-  anii"!i!i'  ••••!  alfiil  the  1-t  ..;  Sej»t4'iul>er,  I  s'>7, 
•lid  an  ad\'i  :'t  1-ennnt  in  th'-  N"VejulxT  fo!  "'.\mg  mentione<l  the 


EDITORIAL   COMMENTS.  2  lo 

twentieth  thousand  just  taken  from  the  press.  Seldom  hud  tin- 
reading  public  of  England  manifested  a  dee|KT  interest  in  a 
book  ;  an  interest,  too,  which  was  seconded  by  the  great  demand 
for  the  singularly  interesting  book  in  other  countries.  Jt  did 
not,  however,  escape  the  seven;  criticism  which  every thm;.' 
human  must  e.\|>ect,  since  there  are  so  many  people  in  the  world 
whose  .-in^le  aptitude  is  for  slaughter,  :uid  whose  solitary  •It- 
light  consists  in  viewing  the  mutilation  of  productions  whi«  !. 
tlicv  despise  because  thev  are  incapable  of  appreciating  them. 
The  leading  journals  of  England  and  America  made  haste  to 
furnish  their  readers  with  verv  extended  reviews,  which  wei" 
made  up  largely  of  lengthy  quotations  concerning  the  cu.-toms 
of  the  people  and  the  features  of  the  country  which  the  writer 
had  so  vividlv  depicted.  The  London  J,«i<f(r  for  November 
24th,  in  the  midst  of  an  extended  editorial,  could  not  rot  rain 
its  admiration,  and  hurst  forth  into  a  verv  eloquent  tribute. 
"The  author,"  says  the  reviewer,  "is  an  Aladdin  wandering 
through  his  new  palace,  with  its  infinite  series  of  chambers, 
each  a  treasury.  He  is  a  Marco  Polo,  recounting  the  marvels 
of  Xigritian  Carthy.  A  Mungo  Park,  coming  suddenlv  upon 
unknown  lakes  and  rivers.  A  Delia  Valle  i;i  the  romance  of 
his  adventures  ;  ami  more  than  a  sixteenth  century  pilgrim  in 
the  intrepidity  of  his  enterprises/' 

Public  sentiment  ripened  rapidlv  aiter  the  publication  of  the 
book.  The  simple,  candid  and  careful  account  of' the  tribes,  the 
soil,  rivers,  animals,  trees,  plant-,  climate  and  minerals,  left  no 
room  tor  doubt,  and  the  foremost  men  of  the  nation  were  readv 
to  forward  with  their  means  and  influence  an  enterprise  which 
looked  to  the  complete  opening  up  of  the  wonderful  land  sc> 
suddenlv  brought  to  view. 

Nor  was  the  Christian  community  behind  the  commercial. 
The  London  Missionary  Societv  manifested  their  confidence  in 
the  judgment  of  Livingstone  bv  arranginj;  for  mission  stations 

«.'  «?  * 

with  the  Makololo  and  the  Matebele.  It  was  with  deep  regret, 
too,  that  they  relinquished  from  their  service  the  man  who  was 
po  peculiarly  fitted  to  head  such  enterprises  ;  but  they  felt  that 
a  more  extended  field  demanded  his  services.  It  was  not  for 
him  to  confine  his  attention  to  a  single  tribe  or  a  circumscribed 
territory.  God  seemed  to  have  laid  it  upon  him  to  be  the 
15 


24<>  RETKPTION    AT    r.VMHRIlHJK. 

pioneer  of  hi-  truth  throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  the 
land.  lic-ide- the  action  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  t  ho 
Fre»-  < 'hup  h  of  Scot  lam)  sent  out  the  Kev.  .lame*  Stewart  to 
re|M>rt  on  the  practicability  of  ettniiiirp<  m_r  mi>sionarv  o|>eration.s 
in  tin-  m  u  1\ -explored  territorv.  The  ^reat  I'niversities  of 
<  )xt'«rd  and  (  'ainbndijc  sent  lor  him,  and  in  tho-e  <jraml  centre* 
of  learning  and  influence  he  w;i>  j^lad  t"  appear  with  theavowrd 
"  purpo-e  (it'  striving  t»  awaken  a  det-jM-r  inter---!  in  ('hristian 
mi.— ion-  to  the  heathen  ;  and  In-  -p"!>e  with  the  authority  of  the 
'jivate-t  of  modern  travellers  ai'i»n_r  linn,  and  in  the  places 
where  a  nii"i»narv  spirit  ou^ht  to  prevail  pre-eininentlv." 
And  i:  i-  a  n»l>!e  p-eord  ol'  th"-,-  ancient  and  honorable  in-titu- 
tion-.  that  in  their  reception  of  the  man  and  hi-  m« ---a^1'  thev 
"  pn»ve«l  thein-elve-.  a-  e\er  U-lon-,  ready  to  reeojni/.e  merit, 
advance  -eicnce,  enemira^e  plulanthropv  and  promote  religion." 
"At  (  'ain!>rid'/e  partieniarlv,  -a\  -  a  coniempo|-;ir\ .  "  the  Mvne 
i:i  t  he  Senate  Hmi-e  wa-  worthv  of  the  mo-t  ^  rap  hie  |>aint  111^'  ot' 
pen  or  p'-m-il.  There  \\a-  a  -"leinn  maje-tv  a!»"iit  it  \\hieh  all 

el.-vation  and  culture  came  -uddcidy  into  contact  with  the 
mL'htv  ipi'-tion-  "t"  At'ri'-an  d-'_'radat  i"ii  and  pp-jre— .  M\- 
treaie-  had  m--t.  At'rica  \\a-  appealing  1>\  the  mouth  of'  her 
wann-lieartcil  ad\ocatc  MI  on--  of  the  ^reate-t  centre-  o(  ci\-;li- 
/ation  and  evan_r  •l;/.a;ioii  in  the  world,  for  help  in  ln-r  fechle- 
II'--.  li_rht  in  ln-r  darkiie— .,  truth  wherewith  to  hattle  her  own 
error,  and  redre—  a_'am-t  her  cruel  \\  roiiLr-  of  centuries." 

T.I"  period  "i'  the  doctor'-  vi-it  to  (  'amliridp-  \\:u-  \vrv  oppor- 
tune.      1  he  academic  hodv,  and    e>piviallv  the  i-hief  authorities, 

\\.-I-e    Ml    re-ld"ll'-e,    aii'l      a  Ml "  1 1  _r     the     d  i  -  t  i  II  Lr  U  i  -  ll' 'd      lll'-ll    \\llo    paid 

hi;u  111  trued  attention-  Wefe  I  >r.  \\he\\ell,  Ma-l'-r  "('  Irinitv 
<'"!!"_'  :  I'r"!' •--"!•  S- -d-\\  j.-k,  the  A-troiiomer  l!"\a!;  IVofe— or 
S-l.v.ii;  and  1  >r.  I'.ate-ou,  Ma-t--r  "f  St.  .lohn'-  ('..lle.je.  A  few 
paragraph-  »\  a  Niter  t.\-  I'rot'e  —  r  Sed-j \\ICK  a!»oiit  that  time, 
I  «r  p'T '•.  i'"iti'«n,  euiiiot  tad  t"  MI!-  r.-'  «  \>  r\  on--  s\ho  |-.-ad-  'hi- 
IMMI'V.  "  In  the  !on_'  |ie;-:..d  ot'  ni\  academic  liti-»"  he  -av-,  ''  I 

ll.'lVe  I  ..  ,  1 1  m  111',  t  Mil'  -  |  '!'•  -e||l  Mi  o[|;-  v-.  lia'"  I  !  "I  I -c  oil  ocea-|o||- 
of  |-  f.  I  ill  e\c  •:'.•:,!'  lit  .  I  he  t  e  • ',  a  III " !  I  _"  t  U-  \\  ho  feluemln  1"  t  lie 

rai'l  v  \  '  ar-  '  •'.'  :  h  :-  ceiiiur\-  e:iti:ini  n  ,-\  (!•:-__'.;  r  he  i  hoii-jhl-  \\  Inch 
lill'-d  th"  national  leal',  ii'  m-:  u  ith  tear,  at  I'-a-t  uith  -offo\v 


niKTixnri.su KD  \VKI.<OMJ:.  ^j- 

ami  deep  anxiety  ;  for  Kngland  saw  nation  after  nation  falling 
In-fore  the  swonl  of  tli<!  first  Napoleon  ;  till  at  length  .-lie  -to«>d 
alone,  with  all  the  great  powers  of  Ktirope  combined  again-t 
lier.  lint  a  brighter  season  followed.  Kurope  regained  it- 
fm-dom  from  military  domination  ;  and  Kngland,  with  her  in- 
stitutions safe  and  her  soil  inviolate,  seemed  to  stand  on  a  pin- 
naele  of  glorv.  A  gain 'and  again  have  I  -ecu  those  good,  stout- 
hearted men  who,  tinder  God,  had  helped  to  work  out  the 
deliverance  of  Kurope  from  military  servitude,  greeted  in  the 
Senate  House  with  our  loudest  acclamations.  I  have  been 
present  at  four  installation  festivals,  when  we  met  to  do  honor 
to  the  good  men  whom  bv  our  votes  we  had  plaeed  at  the  he;  d 
of  the  I 'uiversity.  All  these  were  occasions  of  honest  and  great 
excitement.  The  last  of'  them  was  graced  and  honored  bv  th  • 
presence  of  our  sovereign.  To  her  was  due  the  first  homage  of 
\!ie  University,  and  it  was  given  by  us  not  grudgingly,  but 
Tvith  a  lovaltv  that  carried  us  almost  bevond  ourselves,  and 
drew  from  us  the  most  fervent  gratulations  that  affectionate  and 
grateful  subjects  are  permitted  to  exhibit  in  the  presence  of  their 
sovereign.  Xor  did  we,  during  that  season  of  lovaltv,  forget 
our  voiithful  chancellor,  or  abate  one  jot  of  the  honor  due  him. 
We  greeted  him  as  one  placed  bv  our  free  choice  in  the  hiirhe-t 
ollice  of  the  I'niversitv;  as  the  consort  of  our  queen;  a-  the 
fit  her  of  the  future  sovereign  of  Kngland  ;  and  as  a  man  well 
trained  in  academic  learning,  to  whose  wisdom  we  mi^ht  look 
ibr  counsel  in  anv  times  of  difficulty,  and  to  whose  eloquence 
and  influence  we  might  look  for  protection  in  an  hour  of  danger. 
All  of  these  were  grand  occasions  ;  but  on  none  of  them,"  con- 
tinues the  enthusiastic  professor,  "were  the  gratulations  of  the 
T'niversitv  more  honest  and  true-hearted  than  those  offered  to 
l>r.  Livingstone.  He  stood  before  them  a  plain,  single-minded, 
cheerful  man.  and  addressed  that  learned  a— cinbly  in  unadorned 
and  simple  words  ;  telling  them  simple  facts,  which,  although 
some  present  had  read  his  book,  had  all  the  power  of  freshness 
still.  There  was  nothing  of'  self-glorving.  More  than  once 
he  exclaimed  in  the  mid-t  of  hi<  add:v--es  *  I  have  made  no 
sacrifice;  I  have  only  done  niv  dutv.'  Providence  had  guided 
him;  he  had  only  obeyed  impulse-  which  he  could  not  have 


24>  CHRISTIAN"    BROTH ER. 

Ix-en  happy  in  suppressing.     He  was  cherished  and  honored  as 
a  ( 'hri~tian  brother." 

It  inriv  not  IM-  out  of  place  to  introduce  here  one  of  those 
addrt-v-^  which  held  a  senate  of  scholars  in  profound  attention. 
It  contain*  tor  us  as  it  contained  lor  nianv  in  the  audience  to 
whom  it  was  s|x>ken,  much  that  we  have  read  ;  but  it  may 
serve  to  illustrate  the  man;  at  least,  mav  be  appreciated  as  a 
pleasant  memento  of  him,  and  as  connected  with  an  occasion 
wh<>-e  influence  will  l>e  felt  manv  vears  to  come.  We  will, 
therefore,  dedicate  a  chapter  to  this  a 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

LECTURE    BEFORE    CAMBRIDGE    UNIVERSITY. 

[Delivered  he  fore  the  University  of  Cambridge,  in  tlie  Senate-House,  on  Fridar, 
Decemher  -I,  lv">7.  I>r.  Philpott,  Master  of  St.  Catharine's  College,  Vice- 
Chanceilor,  in  the  chair.  The  hiiildin^  wa.s  crowded  to  excess  with  all  ranks 
of  the  University  and  their  friends.  The  reception  was  so  enthusiastic  that 
literally  there  were  volley  after  volley  of  cheers.  The  Vice-Chancellor  intro- 
duced Dr.  Livingstone  t<>  the  meeting,  who  spoke  nearly  as  follows  :] 

\\  HEN  I  went  to  Africa  about  seventeen  years  ago  I  re- 
solved to  acquire  an  accurate  knowledge  of  the  native  tongues  ; 
and  its  I  continued,  while  there,  to  speak  generally  in  the  African 
languages,  the  result  is  that  I  am  not  now  very  fluent  in  inv 
own  ;  but  if  you  will  excuse  inv  imperfections  under  that  head, 
I  will  endeavor  to  give  you  as  clear  an  idea  of  Africa  as  I  can. 
If  you  look  at  the  map  of  Africa  vou  will  discover  the  shortness 
of  the  coast-line,  which  is  in  consequence  of  the  absence  of' deep 
indentations  of  the  sea.  This  is  one  reason  why  the  interior 
of  Africa  has  remained  so  long  unknown  to  the  rest  of  the  world. 
Another  reason  is  the  un  health  mess  of  the  coast,  which  seems  to 
have  reacted  upon  the  disposition  of  the  people,  for  thev  are  verv 
unkindly,  and  opposed  to  Europeans  passing  through  their 
country.  In  the  southern  part  of  Africa  lies  the  great  Kalahari 
desert,  not  so  called  as  being  a  mere  sandv  plain,  devoid  of  vege- 
tation :  such  a  doert  I  never  saw  until  I  got  between  Sue/  and 
Cairo.  Kalahari  is  called  a  desert  because  it  contains  no  streams, 
and  water  is  obtained  onlv  from  deep  wells.  The  reason  whv  so 
little  rain  falls  on  this  extensive  plain  is,  because  the  winds  pre- 
vailing over  the  greater  part  of  the  interior  countrv  are  easterly, 
with  a  little  southing.  The  moisture  taken  up  bv  the  atmos- 
phere from  the  Indian  ocean  is  deposited  on  the  eastern  hillv 
slope ;  and  when  the  moving  mass  of  air  reaches  its  greatest 
elevation,  it  is  then  on  the  veruv  of  the  great  valley,  or,  as  in  the 
case  of  the  Kalahari,,  the  ^reat  heated  inland  plains  there  meeting 

l!49 


•J.»  RMN-MAKINt;. 

with  the  rarcfitil  air  of  that  hot,  drv  -urface,  the  ascending  heat 
give-  it  greater  eajujeitv  tor  retaining  all  it-  remaining  humulitv, 
and  few  -howers  can  !*•  given  to  the  middle  and  western  lands 
in  cou-cijiieiicc  of  the  incrca-cil  hygrornetric  jiowcr.  The  jn-ojilo 
living  there,  not  knowing  the  jthv-ical  rca.-on-  whv  thev  have 
so  little  rain,  are  in  the  haliit  of'  >einlin^  to  the  mountain-  on 
tin-  ca.-t  for  rain-maker-,  in  who-e  ji"\\  «T  of  making  rain  they 
have  a  firm  lielief.  Thev  sav  the  j..-ojil,-  in  thc-e  mountains 
have  jili-ntv  of  rain,  and  therefore  mu-t  jto--e-s  a  mitlieine.  tor 
making  it.  This  faith  in  rain-making  i-  a  remarkable  feature  in 
the  jMMjih-  iii  the  conntrv,  and  thev  have  a  <_r""<l  deal  to  sav  in 
favor  of  it.  If  vi in  sav  vmi  do  not  U-lieve  that  these  iwdicine-s 
have  any  jxtwer  njton  the  elmul-,  tln-v  rcjtlv  that  that  i-  jn-t  the 
wav  people  talk  altmit  what  thev  do  not  under-tand.  I  hey  take 
ti  linllt,  jMPiind  it,  and  administer  an  infu-ion  of  it  to  a  sheep  :  in 
A  -hort  time  the  -heeji  die-;  in  coiivnl-ion-,  and  then  thev  a-k. 
Ha,-  not  the  medicine  power'.'  I  do  not  think  oiir  friends  of 
(lie  homn'opathie  "persuasion  '  have  much  m«>re  to  -av  than 
that.  I  he  common  argument  known  to  all  tho-c  tnl>.--  i-  tint 
— "  (  Jod  love-  \oii  \\hite  m.n  Itettcrthan  u- :  he  made  voii  tir-t, 
and  ili'l  not  make  n-  pivttv  like  voii  :  he  made  u-  afterwards, 
and  do<  -  ii.>t  love  u-  a-  he  1  "\'<  -  voii.  lie  'jave  von  clothing, 
and  hor-i--  and  wa^oii-.  and  ::un-  and  powder,  and  that  lioitk, 
wh;c!i  NOII  an-  alwav-  talking  alioiit.  !!••  '_rave  u- onlv  t  \\  o 
tiling-  -cattle  and  a  knowledge  of  c.  rtam  ineilic-ines  !>N'  winch 
we  .-an  make  rain.  \\  <•  do  not  de-jti-c  the  tiling-  that  N -..11  have  ; 
\\  i-  onlv  wi-h  t  hat  \\  e  had  them  too  ;  we  do  not  di~-pi-e  t  hat  1  *>•  >ok 
o}'  voiir-.  although  ue  do  not  under-tand  it  :  - ••  NOII  oiiLrhl  i:ot 
to  d.-jii-e  oiir  knowli-dge  of  rain-making,  al;lioti_di  vmi  do  not 
lindi-r-tand  it."  Y»n  cannot  <-onN-incc  them  that  th-'V  IKIN-.'  no 
j>  I'.vi-r  to  ma'.e  rain.  A-  it  i-  \\-ith  th--  homo-ojiathi-t.  -o  ii  is 
w  :r  h  '  li-  ram  maker  voii  mi_rlit  ar^ip-  N  .  >iir  ton^H-'  out  of  join  I 
.i:i< !  ".  "iiid  convince  ii'  it  h--r. 


•;•-'. -v     oj-  t.-  |,urjto-.-  ,,    ;,•  i,  •,.,  ^  t--     »c 
religion,  and    -'-ttl.-d   \\itli    th-    fi!>.'-  on    tin 


Ifirder  ..!'  th.-    K'alahai  i  d. -.  rt.      The-,,   triln-  \\.-rv  rho ftl,,» 

r,ak\\a;:i-,  l',M-!,m.-n  and  I '.akalahari.  S-  !,-  !.  i  -  I  h-  .t,i,-f  ,  ,f 
ti.i-  {ormer.  <  >n  tin-  oc,-a-ioii  ••!  lip- fir-!  p-li-.-ioii-  ---rN  i----  !i.  !d. 
h--  a-k'd  Hi'-  it  h--  c..u!d  JHI!  -nine  .ji|c-ti"ii-  on  th'v  -iiM.'ct  of 


THK    Kl'TI-'UE   HTATK.  2-r>l 

Christianity,  since  such  was  tin;  custom  of  their  country  \\  IK-II 
any  new  subj<vt  was  introduced  to  their  notice.  I  said,  "  l>y 
all  means."  He  then  inquired  "  If  my  forefathers  knew  of  a 
future  judgment?"  I  said,  "  Yes;"  and  begun  to  descrilw  tin 
wene  of  the  great  white  throne,  and  HIM  who  should  sit  on 
it,  from  whose  face  the  heavens  shall  flee  away,  and  !><•  no  morv 
seen  ;  interrupting,  he  said,  "  You  startle  me,  these  words  make 
all  mv  hones  to  shake,  I  have  no  more  strength  in  me.  You 
have  been  talking  al»out  a  future  jud  ,rm  'lit,  and  manv  terrible 
things  of  which  we  know  nothing,"  repeating,  ''  I  >id  your  fore- 
fathers know  of  these  things?"  I  again  replied  in  the  ailirma- 
tive.  The  chief  said,  "  All  mv  forefathers  have  parsed  awav 
into  darkness,  without  knowing  anything  of  what  wa-;  to  befall 
them  ;  how  is  it  that  your  forefathers,  knowing  all  these  things, 
did  not  send  word  to  my  forefathers  sooner?"  This  was  rather 
i\  poser;  but  I  explained  the  geographical  difficulties,  and  >aid 
it  was  only  after  we  hud  begun  to  send  the  knowledge  of  Christ 
to  Cape  Colony  and  other  parts  of  the  country,  to  which  we  had 
access,  that  we  came  to  them;  that  it  was  their  duty  to  receive 
what  Europeans  had  now  obtained  the  power  to  offer  them  ; 
and  that  the  time  would  come  when  the  whole  world  would  re- 
ceive the  knowledge  of  Christ,  because  Christ  had  promised  that 
all  the  earth  should  be  covered  with  a  knowledge  of  lum-elf. 
The  chief  pointed  to  the  Kalahari  desert,  and  said,  "  Will  you 
ever  get  bcvond  that  with  your  gospel  ?  \\  e.  who  are  more  ac- 
customed to  thirst  than  volt  are,  cannot  cross  that  desert  ;  how 
can  you?"  I  stated  my  belief  in  the  promise  of  Christ  ;  and 
in  a  few  years  afterwards  that  chief  was  the  man  who  enabled 
me  to  cross  that  desert  ;  and  not  only  so,  but  he  himself  preached 
the  gospel  to  tribes  beyond  it. 

In  some  vears  more  rain  than  usual  falls  in  the  desert,  and 
then  there  is  a  large  crop  of  water-melons.  When  this  occurred 
the  desert  might  be  crossed:  in  1S-V2,  a  gentleman  crossed  it, 
and  his  oxen  existed  on  the  fluid  contained  in  the  melon-  for 
twenty-two  davs.  In  crossing  the  desert  different  sorts  of  count n 
are  met  with  ;  up  to  twentieth  south  latitude  there  i-  a  compa- 
ratively drv  and  arid  eountrv,  and  vou  might  travel  lor  lour 
days,  as  I  have  done,  without  a  single  drop  of  water  tor  tho 
oxen.  Water  for  the  travellers  themselves  was  alwavs  curried 


2.V2  OBJKiT    IX    VISITING   THK    INTERIOR. 

::;  the  wagon-,  the  usual  mole  of  travelling  south  of  the 
twentieth  degree  of  latitude  being  by  ox-wagon.  For  tour 
i!uv>,  ujHMi  several  occasions,  we  hail  not  a  drop  of  water  for  the 
i.xen  :  but  beyond  twentieth  south  latitude,  going  to  the  north, 
we  travelled  to  Loanda,  one  thousand  live  Imndred  miles,  with- 
mu  carrying  water  for  a  single  dav.  The  eountrv  in  the  southern 
part  of  Africa  is  a  kind  of  oblong  b;i-in,  stretching  north  and 
south,  Ixmndod  on  all  sides  \>y  old  schist  rocks.  The  waters  of 
this  central  basin  find  an  exit  through  a  fissure  into  the  river 
/aiuix-si,  flowing  to  the  east,  the  basin  itself  being  covered  with 
a  layer  of  calcareous  tufa. 

M\  object  in  going  into  the  country  south  ;>f  the  desert  was 
to  insmiet  the  natives  in  a  knowledge  of  Christianity,  but  many 
circuni.«taneeri  prevented  mv  living  amongst  them  more  than 
-even  y.Mr-i,  amount  which  were  considerations  ari-ing  out  of 
the  slave  svstem  carried  on  bv  the  l>uteh  Boer-.  I  resolved  to 
p>  into  I\HJ  eountrv  U-vond,  and  soon  found  that,  t»r  the  pur- 
noses  of  coi.itnenv,  it  was  neeo.-arv  to  have  a  path  to  the  >ea.  I 
mi'^ht  hav<-  «rone  on  instructing  the  native-,  in  religion,  but  as 
civili/.atiun  u.xl  Christianity  niu-t  ^n  on  together,  1  wa>  ob- 
li^e«l  to  tind  a  path  to  the  -ea,  in  order  that  I  -huiild  not  >ink 
to  the  level  ot  ,!)'•  native-.  The  chief  was  overjoyed  at  the.-ug- 
"e-tion,  and  furnished  me  with  twentv-.-even  men.  and  canoes 

i™*  • 

and  provi-ion-,  and  pre-ent-  top  the  tribe>  through  \\lio-e  country 
w  had  to  pa— .  \N'e  mi'_rht  have  taken  a  shorter  path  to  the  sea 
than  that  to  the  north,  and  th«  n  to  the  weM,  by  which  we  went  ; 
but  aloiiir  the  countrv  bv  the  shorter  route  there  i-  an  insert 
called  the  t-ct-r  \\lio~e  bite  i--  final  1o  lior-e-,  o\en,  and  dt'^s, 
but  not  to  men  or  donkevs.  —  ^':iu  ^eem  to  think  there  i-  a 
eiinneeti<.n  Ix-tween  the  t  \\  o. — Tip-  habitat  of  thai  in-eet  i-  along 
the  -horter  route  to  the  -ea.  The  bite  of  it  i-  t'at a  1  to  dome-tic 
animal-,  not  immediately,  but  r-ertainly  in  the  coiir>e  ol  two  or 
tin-- •••  month-  ;  the  animal  ^row-  lean,  rand  leaner,  and  gradually 
di<--  ot'  emaciation  :  a  hor-e  belong  in1/  to  (iordon  (  'um  in  ing  died 
of'  a  bill-  liv«'  or  -i\  month-  after  it  wa«<  bitten. 

(  )n  aer'oiint  of  t!ii~  in-'cf,  I  r'-olv.-d  to  -"  to  the  north,  aixl 
flini  wi~t\\ard-  to  thi-  I  'ort  II_MIC-<'  -ettleinent  of  Luanda.  Along 
thf  conr-e  of'  tlii-  rivr  which  w<-  |>a--i-d  t'-'imc  wa-  -o  abundant 
that  there  wa-  no  <li!li«-nlf  \'  in  -ilpplving  the  want-  ot  mv  whole 


HOSPITALITY    OF    THK    X  ATI  VMS. 

partv  :  antelope*  were  HO  tame  that  they  might  be  sliot  from  the 
canoe.  Hut  beyond  fourteen  degrees  of  south  latitude  the 
natives  had  guns,  ami  had  themselves  destroyed  the  game,  so 
that  I  and  my  party  had  to  live  on  charity.  The  people,  how- 
ever, in  that  central  region  were  friendly  and  hospitable:  but 
thev  had  nothing  but  vegetable  productions  ;  the  mo>t  abundant 
was  the  cassava,  which,  however  nice  when  made  into  tapioca 
pudding,  resembles  in  its  more  primitive  condition  nothing  so 
much  as  a  mess  of  laundress'  starch.  There  was  a  de.sire  in 
the  various  villages  through  which  we  passed  to  have  intercourse 
with  us,  and  kindness  and  hospitality  were  shown  u>  ;  but  when 
we  got  near  the  Portuguese  settlement  of  Angola  the  ca>e  was 
changed,  and  payment  was  demanded  for  everything,  lint  I 
had  nothing  to  pay  with.  Now  the  people  had  been  in  the 
habit  of  trading  with  the  slavers,  and  so  thev  said  I  might  give 
one  of  mv  men  in  pavment  for  what  I  wanted.  When  I  showed 
them  that  I  could  not  do  this,  thev  looked  upon  me  as  an  in- 
terloper, and  I  was  sometimes  in  danger  of  being  murdered. 

As  we  neared  the  coast,  the  name  of  England  was  recognized, 
and  we  got  on  with  case.  Upon  one  occasion,  when  I  was 
passing  through  the  parts  visited  by  slave-traders,  a  chief  who 
wished  to  show  me  some  kindness  offered  me  a  slave-girl ;  upon 
explaining  that  I  had  a  little  girl  of  my  own,  whom  1  should 
not  like  my  own  chief  to  give  to  a  black  man,  the  chief  thought 
I  was  displeased  with  the  si/e  of  the  girl  and  sent  me  one  a 
head  taller.  By  this  and  other  means  I  convinced  mv  men  of 
mv  opposition  to  the  principle  of  slavery  ;  and  when  we  arrived 
at  Loauda  I  took  them  on  board  a  British  vessel,  where  I  took 
a  pride  in  showing  them  that  those*  countrymen  of  mine  and 
those  guns  were  there  for  the  purpose  of  putting  down  the  slave- 
trade.  They  were  convinced  from  what  they  saw  of  the  honestv 
of  Englishmen's  intentions  ;  and  the  hearty  reception  thev  met 
with  from  the  >ai!ors  made  them  sav  to  me,  "  We  see  they  arr- 
your  countrymen,  tor  they  have  heart-  like  you."  On  tin-  jour- 
ney the  men  had  always  looked  forward  to  reaching  the  coast  ; 
they  had  seen  Manchester  prints,  and  other  article-  imported 
therefrom,  and  thev  could  not  believe  thev  were  made  bv  mortal 
hands.  On  reaching  the  sea.  thev  thought  thev  had  come  to 
the  end  of  the  world.  They  said,  '*  We  marched  along  with 


iT>4  AKRIYAI.  AT  I.OANDA. 

our  father,  thinking  tin-  world  was  a  large  plain  without  limit : 
but  all  at  once  the  lan«l  said,  '  I  am  fmi-hed  ;  there  is  no  more 
«•!'  me  ; '  "  ami  they  railed  themselves  tin-  true  old  men — tin* 
true  ancient.- — having  gone  to  the  end  of  tin-  world.  On  reach- 
ing I/oanda,  tin v  commenced  trailing  in  tin-wood,  and  also  en- 
ga/ed  theiu-elve-  at  -ixj>cn<v  a  dav  in  unloading  coals,  brought 
bv  a  .-trainer  lor  tin-  ••apply  of  tin-  crni.-er  1\ -ing  there  to  watch 
the  -lave-ve-.-eU.  (>u  their  return,  thev  t.ild  their  people  "  we 
worked  lor  a  whole  mo  >n,  carryin/  awav  the  -tones  that  liurn.*' 
Mv  the  time  thev  wen-  ready  to  /o  hark  to  their  own  coiintrv, 
caeli  had  -ecu  red  a  large  luindle  ».f  /ood-.  <  >n  the  wav  hark, 
however,  t'-vr  detained  them,  and  their  good.-  were  all  /one, 
leaving  tin-in  <>n  their  return  home  a-  pour  a-  when  thev  -tarted. 
1  had  'jonr  towards  the  eoa-i  for  the  pnrpo-e  i»f  finding  a 
dire<-t  path  to  the  -ea,  Imt  on  ^om-.r  through  the  coiuitrv  we 
(ound  forr-t-  -o  drn~c  that  the  sun  had  not  much  intinence  on 
the  '/round,  which  w:u-  rovrn-d  with  vrllow  mo»c>,  and  all  the 

tree-     \\ith      white     lieh'-n-.        Allloii/~t      tll'-e     ti>n--t-      WiTe     litth' 

stn-ain--,  rarh  having  it-  -"iirre  in  a  l»'_r  ;  in  fart,  nearlv  all  the 
river-  in  that  c<nintrv  cominener  n,  ho/-.  Kinding  it  impo-.- 
sihle  to  tra\'el  here  in  a  \\hee!  coiivrvanre,  I  left  mv  wa/on 
U-hiii'l.  and  I  hrlii-ve  it  i-  standin-/  in  p-  rfii  t  .-afrtv  where  I  !a-t 
-aw  it  at  the  |ir.-.-nt  moment.  The  onlv  other  mean-  of  roii- 
Vevanei1  we  had  \\a-  o\-lia«-k,  1>\-  no  mean-  a  comfortahle  mode 
of  travellin/.  I  therelore  cjime  hark  to  di-ro\cr  another  route 
to  the  coa-t  l)\'  mean-  of'  the  river  /.amln>i. 

I'he  >ame  -v-trm   of  inundation   that   ili-tingnisho  the    Nile 
i-  al-o   etl'.-<-!'-d    hv  tlii-    rivej-.  and    the  vallev  of  the    Har«'t.-e    i- 

•  •Xcei-ditl/lv      like      the     Valli'V     ot'     the       Nile     1  let  \\eell      (  'a  i  I'o      and 

.\lr\andria.      The    inundations  of  the    /amln-i,  however,  <-IIIM- 

no  muddv  -diiii'-nt  lik--  tho-e  of  the  Nile,  and,  onlv  that  there 
ar«-  n"  -iio'.\  mountain-,  wtuild  mnve\  the  imprr->!«in  that  the 

ll|l|I|i|   l'lo||-    \\  .   I'c    th<-    I'i  '-lilt    'it     the    Illrltlll/    o|    ^!|i>\\     ll'iilll    adjMIH- 

iii/  hi,!-.  'I  IH  fi'-e  ',f  ill'-  ri.iintrv  pr--'  nt-  n«  -u<  h  (i  atun-, 
hill  eji  \  a!«  '  i  pi  mi-,  -o  !•  v-1  thai  ram-  wat<  r  -land-  t»r  liionl  h- 
to-/.-tln  r  up. -n  tl,.  in.  Th-  \\ali-r  d'-e-  n--!  \\»\\  otV,  Imt  /railuallv 
-oak-  inf"  tli'-  -oil.  and  th-n  <»•/<-  <>u(  in  !•••/-.  in  \\hirh  all  the 
n\'er-  take  ih>  ir  ii-e.  1  |n-\  ha\-  t«o  ramv  -<  a-on-  m  the  \ear, 
und  eoii-i  i|t|i  ni  i  v  t  \\  o  p,  ri"'l-  "1  inundation,  I  In-  r<n-on  \\liv 


A  FUN  AN    HOXKSTY.  2o.rJ 

the  water  remains  so  clear  is  this:  the  country  is  covered  by 
such  a  mass  of  vegetation  that  the  water  flows  over  the  gnis», 
etc.,  without  disturbing  the  soil  beneath. 

There  is  a  large  ct'Htral  district  containing  a  large-  lake  formed 
by  the  course  of  the  Zambesi,  to  explore  which  would  be  well 
worthy  of  the  attention  of  any  individual  wishing  to  distinguish 
himself. 

Having  got  down  amongst  the  people  in  the  middle  of  the 
country,  and  having  made  known  to  my  friend,  the  chief,  my 
desire  to  have  a  path  for  civili/ution  and  commerce  on  the  ca.-t, 
he  again  furnished  me  with  means  to  pursue  my  researches  ca-t- 
ward  ;  and,  to  show  how  disposed  tlu  natives  were  to  aid  me  ii. 
ny  expedition,  L  had  one  hundred  and  fourteen  men  to  accom- 
pany me  to  the  east,  whilst  those  who  had  travelled  to  the  wot 
with  me  only  amounted  to  twenty-seven.  I  carried  with  me 
thirty  tusks  of  ivory  ;  and,  on  leaving  my  wagon  to  set  forth 
0:1  my  journey,  two  warriors  of  the  countrv  offered  a  heifer 
apiece  to  the  man  who  should  slav  anv  one  who  molested  it. 
Having  proceeded  about  a  hundred  miles,  I  found  myself  -hurt 
of  ammunition,  and  despatched  an  emissary  back  to  the  chief  to 
procure  more  percussion  'caps  from  a  box  I  bad  in  my  watron. 
Not  understanding  the  lock,  the  chief  took  a  hatchet  and  split 
the  lid  open  to  get  what  wa.s  wanted  ;  and  notwithstanding  the 
insecure  state  in  which  it  remained,  I  found,  on  returning  two 
vears  after,  that  its  contents  were  precisely  as  I  left  them.  Such 
honesty  is  rare  even  in  eivili/.ed  Christian  England,  as  I  know 
from  experience;  for  I  sent  a  box  of  fossils  to  J)r.  Buckland, 
which,  after  arriving  safely  in  England,  was  stolen  from  some 
railway,  being  probably  mistaken  for  plate. 

I  could  not  make  mv  friend,  the  chief',  understand  that  I  was 
poor;  I  had  a  ijnantity  of  su^ar,  and  while  it  lasted  the  chief' 
would  favor  me  with  his  company  to  coffee;  when  it  w;is  £one, 
I  told  the  chief  how  it  was  produced  from  the  cane  which  LTIVW 
in  central  Africa,  but  as  thev  had  no  mean-  of'  extracting  the 
saccharine  matter  he  requested  me  to  procure  a  sugar-mill. 
When  I  told  him  I  was  poor,  the  chief  then  informed  me  that 
all  the  ivorv  in  the  countrv  was  at  mv  di>posal,  and  he  accord- 
ingly loaded  me  with  tusks  ten  of  which,  on  arriving  at  the 
coast,  1  spent  in  purchasing  clothing  for  mv  follower.-;  the  rest 


'J.Vi  NAT1VK    ItKUUION. 

\'ei-e  left  at  Quiliiuanc,  that  the  impression  should  not  be  pro- 
duced in  the  e«»untry  that  they  had  bet'ii  stolen  in  case  of  my 
tiuii-rvtiirn. 

Knirli-hineii  are  verv  apt  to  form  their  opinion  i»f  Africans 
from  the  elegant  (inures  in  tobacconists'  shop-;  I  scarcely  think 
Mich  are  fair  specimens  of  the  Afri«-an.  1  think,  at  the  same 
time,  tl.it  the  Afriean  women  would  be  mneh  handsomer  than 
t.nv  are  it'thev  would  only  let  themselves  alone;  though  unlbr- 
tanat'-!\-  that  i<  a  t'ailin-_r  by  no  mean-  jn-euliar  to  African  ladies; 
l-iit  thi-v  are.  |»v  nature,  not  particularly  ;.:ood-lookinjr,  and  seem 
to  take  all  the  pains  thev  can  to  make  thein-elves  wor-e.  The 
people  of  o:,e  tribe  knoek  out  all  their  npjier  front  teeth,  and 
.\iieii  thev  lau_di  are  jxrrlivtly  hideous.  Another  tribe  of  the 
Lmda  eoiintrv  tile  all  their  trout  teeth  to  a  point,  like  eats' 
teeth,  and  when  thev  ;_[rin  put  one  in  mind  of  alligator.-;  manv 
of  the  women  an-  eomelv,  (nit  -|>oil  their  beauts  by  such  uit- 
natural  mean-.  Another  tribe  has  a  en-torn  o|  piercing  the 
cartilage  ot'  the  no-e  and  in-ertiii'_r  a  bit  of  reed,  which  spreads 
it  out,  and  makes  them  verv  di-a^reeable-looknii:  ;  others  tie 
th'-ir  hair,  or  rath-  r  \\ool.  into  ha-ket-work.  resembling;  the  ton- 
r-orial  decoration*  •>{'  the  aii«-ient  lv_r\ptian-  ;  other-.  a_rain,  dre-s 
tlieir  hair  \\ith  a  hoop  around  il.  -o  a-  to  re-einble  the  gloria 
round  ih'  head  ot'  th"  virgin  ;  rather  a  different  application  of 
tip-  hooj,  to  that  of  KiiL'li-h  ladie-. 

'Ihe  people  ot'  ei-ntral  Africa  have  religion-  ideas  -trouper 
than  tho-e  ot  the  (  'atfre-  and  other  -oiilhern  nation-,  who  talk 
inii'-ii  o!  (J.i.l  but  pray  -eldnm.  Thev  prav  to  departed  rela- 
tive-, by  whom  tip-y  imagine  illne--e-  are  -cut  to  puni-h  them 
J.-r  an\'  n>  _rl«-et  on  their  part.  Kvideiu^-s  of  the  I'ortiii^ue-e 
.!•  -nit  mi--;onarv  op.-ration-  are  -'ill  ••\tanl.  and  ai'e  earetullv 
p'-.--«-rv  1  bv  lli.-  native-  ;  ,,\\'-  tribe  can  all  read  and  \\ril'-.  whieh 

i-  a-eri'rab!e  to  the  t.-a.  hin^  of  tl,,.  .1,  -nit-  ;  their  on  I  \  1 k-  are. 

fio\\i  v  r.  li!-!on.--  ot  -  nn!-,  and  miraeli  -  ell'eeteil  bv  thi-  panntr- 
o(  -:un'!\  toe-na:l-.  and  -ueh  like  non-«-n-e  ;  but.  -unlv.  it  -ueli 
an  impr* --ion  ha-  on.-e  IM-.-II  |irodi|e.-.|.  it  mi'jht  !•••  hoped  tliat 
t  h'-  i •']'••'.  I  -  o|  I  Voti-tanl  m:-.-ionarii--,  u  ho  \\-<  ,\\\>\  \,  a\  •  t  h«-  Hi!)le 
uith  tie  -••  poor  p.-op].'.  \\oiild  not  be  h -v-  abii|ni'_r. 

lll       a     '  -I'Mim.   |  -i    i   il       po;!i!       ot      \  |e\\       I -o|  1 1  III  U  1 1  lea  t  lot)       With       tlll- 

eoiifitrv  i-   di-irab!e.        \n_ola    i-  wonderfully  fertile,  producing 


THK    I'OKTruUKSK    IN    AFRIPA.  2'>7 

every  kind  of  tropical  plant  in  rank  luxuriance.  Pa.— ing  on 
to  the  vallcv  of  Quango,  tlic  stalk  of  (he  grass  was  as  thick  as 
a  quill,  and  towered  al)ove  my  head,  although  I  was  H)oiintc<l 
on  n»y  ox  ;  cotton  is  produced  in  great  abundance,  though 
inerelv  woven  into  common  cloih  ;  bananas  and  pine-apples 
grow  in  great  luxuriance ;  hut  the  people  having  no  inaritiine 
communication,  these  advantages  are.  almost  !<».>t.  The  country 
on  the  other  side  is  not  quite  so  fertile,  but  in  addition  to  indigo, 
cotton,  and  sugar-cane,  produces  a  fibrous  substance,  which  1 
am  assured  is  stronger  than  ilax. 

The  Zambesi  has  not  been  thought  much  of  as  a  river  by 
Europeans,  not  appearing  very  large-  at  its  mouth ;  but  on 
going  up  it  for  seventy  miles  it  is  enormous.  The  first  three 
hundred  miles  might  be  navigated  without  obstacle;  then  then: 
is  a  rapid,  and  near  it  a  coal-field  of  large  extent.  The  elevated 
sides  of  the  basin,  which  form  the  most  important  feature  of  the 
country,  are  far  different  in  climate  to  the  country  nearer  the 
sea,  or  even  the  centre.  Here  the  grass  is  short,  and  the  Angola 
goat,  which  could  not  live  in  the  centre,  had  been  seen  on  tin- 
east  highland  by  Mr.  Mollat. 

My  desire  is  to  open  a  path  to  this  district,  that  civilization, 
commerce,  and  Christianity  might  find  their  wav  there.  I  con- 
sider that  we  made  a  great  mistake  when  we  carried  commerce 
into  India  in  being  ashamed  of  our  Christianity;  as  a  matter  of 
common  sense  and  good  'policy,  it  is  always  be.-t  to  appear  in 
one's  true  character.  In  travelling  through  Africa  I  might 
have  imitated  certain  Portuguese,  and  have  passed  for  a  chief; 
but  I  never  attempted  anything  of  the  sort,  although  endeavor- 
ing always  to  keep  to  the  lessons  of  cleanliness  rigidly  instilled 
by  mv  mother  long  a<'.i .  the  consequence  was  that  the  natives 
respected  me  for  that  quality,  though  remaining  dirty  themselves, 

I  had  a  pass  from  the  Portuguese  consul,  and  on  arriving  at 
their  settlement  I  was  asked  what  I  was.  I  said,  "  A  mis- 
sionary, and  a  doctor,  too."  They  asked,  "  Are  you  a  doctor 
of  medicine  ?  " — "  Yes." — "  Are  you  not  a  doctor  of  mathematics, 
too?" — "  Xo." — "And  yet  you  can  take  longitudes  and  lati- 
tudes." Then  they  asked  me  about  my  moustache  ;  and  I  simplv 
said  I  wore  it  because  men  had  moustaches  to  wear  and  ladies 
had  not.  They  could  not  understand  either  whv  a  saeerdote 


•_>.")S  (Y)MMKi:cK    AXD    CHRISTIANITY. 

should  have  a  wife  ami  four  children  ;  ami  many  a  joko  took 
place  UJHUI  that  -ubject.  I  used  to  sav,  ''  I>  it  not  Ix'ttcrto  have 
children  with  than  without  a  wife?"  Kn^li^hmcn  of  education 

alwav-  command  rcsj»ect  without  ativ  adventitious  aid.  A  I'or- 
tujuc-c  ^ovcrnoi  left  for  Angola,  pvin^  out  that  he  was  jzoint; 
to  keep  a  lar^e  establishment,  ami  taking  with  him  tjuantitics 
of  CPM  kt-rv,  ami  about  five  hundred  wai>tcoat>  ;  but  when  he 
arrived  in  Africa  lie  inaile  a  "deal  "  of  them.  Educated  Kn^- 
li-htii'-ii  -eldom  descend  to  that  sort  of  tiling. 

A  pro-pect  i>  m>\\  helore  us  of  ojK-nin^  Africii  for  comment1 
and  the  jjji-ijM'l.  1'rovideiie*-  ha<  In^'ii  preparing  the  \vav  ;  f«>r 
even  he). m-  I  priKxtnlt^l  to  the  (Vntral  basin  it  had  been  n>n- 

•  juerol   an<l    ri'iuIiTttl  ~ali-  bv  a  diief  named   S-bituam-,  and  the 
lan^iia;je  i.f  the    licchuaiia*'    made   the   fashionable   tontine,  and 
that  \\;L-  <inc  of  tlu-  lantriiaLre-  into  which  Mr.  MotVat  had  tran-- 
latcd    the   Scriptliri'S.      Seljituaiu-  also   di-cii\ered     Lake    Ntiaini 
some  time  |>revioii>    to   my  cxplomtinns  in  that  part.      In  Lr"in.L' 
back  to  that  cMimtrv  mv  object    i>    to   open  up   tratlic  alonj   the 
bank-  of  the    /amlx>i,  and  al-o  t"»  preai'li  the  «jn*pel.      The  na- 
tive>    of  central    Africa  arc  verv  ih^-irous   <>i'  tradiiis_r,  but    tluir 
<i!i!v  tratli'-    i-    at    present  in    slaves,  of   which  the  ponivr  jn-oph1 
have  an  unmit itratcd  horror  ;  it  i-  then-fore  m<>-t  doinibh-  to  en- 
eoiira^'1  th>-   Ibrnicr   principle,  an<l  thus  open  a  wav  \'<>r  the  cun- 
stimption  "{'  tree  pro<liiction-i)  and  the  introduction  of  ( 'hri-tianitv 
and  <-onini''rcc.      Hv  encoura^intr  flic  native  pn>penMtv  for  trade, 
tli'- ad  vantage-  that  mii_rht    be  derived    in  a  cotnini-rcial  point  of 
view  are  incalculable;  m>r  should  we  \<>-f  -ijjht  oi    the  nie-tima- 
bli-  bles-irisfs  it  i-  in  our  power  to  !)cstow  upon  the  unenlightened 
African    bv  '_rivin_r    hint    the  lijj^ht  of   (  'hri-t iamt\ .      'I  Imse   t\\o 
pioneer-   <>f  civili/-it ion  —  ( 'hri-tianitv    and    cmunirrce --  -linild 
••\.r  be  in-cjiarable  ;  and    Kn^lishmen  should  !»•  \varne* I  b\   the 
tr'ii'~  "('  u.-_'!.-.-t  m_r    that    principle    a-    exemplified  in  the    r-~ii!t 
"f  tic-  ru  1:1  tj-.-nieii!  ol'  Indian  atlair-.       I'\    trading  \\ilh    Al'ri'"i. 
a!-",  we    -h.nild    at     length    |H-    independent    <.f   -!a\  c-lab-.r.  and 
tlm-  di-counti-Hami1  pra-'tii-e-,  -«i  nbnoxinii-.  toe\erv   I'jiL'b-liman. 

1  h'tii/h  tlie  native-  are  n«if  ab-"lutel\-  aiixioii-  to  reei  i\-e  tli^1 
e^o-pi-1,  rh"-v  are  .  IJM n  to  (  'hri-t  ian  inflm-no-..  A  IIIOIIL'  t  lie  1'ni-h- 
'jana-  the  ^.i-p«-l  wa-  well  reeei\-,-,l.  T!ie-e  jii-.i|.le  think  it  a 

•  Time  to  -hi-d  a  tear    but    I   have  -een  -nine   of  them  weep  at  thf 


THE    MISSIONARY    LIFK.  _'.">'.» 

recollection  of  their  sins  when  God  had  opened  their  htart-  *• 
Christianity  and  repentance.  It  is  true  that  missionaries  have. 
difficulties  to  encounter;  hut  what  great  enterprise  was  ever  ac- 
cumplishe<l  without  difficulty?  It  is  deplorahle  to  think  that 
one  of  the  noblest  of  our  missionary  societies,  the  Church  Mi— 
sionarv  Society,  is  compelled  to  send  to  Germany  for  missionaries, 
whilst  other  societies  are  amply  supplied.  Let  this  stain  be 
wijx-d  oil'. — The  sort  of  men  who  are  wanted  for  missionaries 
ai^  such  as  I  set;  before  me  ; — men  of  education,  standing,  en- 
terprise, xeal,  and  piety.  It  is  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  anif 
ou<',  as  long  as  he  is  pious,  will  do  for  this  office.  Pioneers  in 
everything  should  be  the  ablest  and  best  qualified  men,  not  tlm-e 
of  small  ability  and  education.  This  remark  especially  applies 
to  the  first  teachers  of  Christian  truth  in  regions  which  may 
never  have  before  been  blest  with  the  name  and  gospel  of  .Je-us 
Christ.  In  the  early  ages  the  monasteries  were  the  school.-  of 
Europe,  and  the  monks  were  not  ashamed  to  hold  the  plough. 
The  missionaries  now  take  the  place  of  those  noble  men,  and  we 
should  not  hesitate  to  give  up  the  small  luxuries  of  life  in  order 
to  carry  knowledge  and  truth  TO  them  that  are  in  darkne.-s.  J 
hope  that  many  of  those  whom  I  now  address  will  embrace  that 
honorable  career.  Education  has  been  given  us  from  above  for 
v.he  purpose  of  bringing  to  the  benighted  the  knowledge  of  a 
Saviour.  If  you  knew  the  satisfaction  of  performing  such  a 
duty,  as  well  as  the  gratitude1  to  dod  which  the  missionary  must 
always  feel,  in  being  chosen  for  so  noble,  so  sacred  a  calling,  VOM 
would  have  no  hesitation  in  embracing  it. 

Eor  my  own  part,  I  have  never  ceased  to  rejoice  that  dud 
has  appointed  me  to  such  an  office.  People  talk  of  the  sacrifice 
I  have  made  in  spending  so  much  of  my  life  in  Africa,  ('an 
that  be  called  a  sacrifice  which  is  simply  paid  back  a.-  f<  MU.O! 
part  of  a  great  debt  owiiiLT  to  our  dod,  which  we  can  never  re- 
pa  v  ? — Is  that  a  sacrifice  which  brin<>  its  own  hle.-t  reward  in 
healthful  activity,  the  consciousness  of'  doin^  <;ood,  peace  of 
mind,  and  a  bright  hope  of  a  glorious  devtiny  hereafter? — -Awav 
with  the  word  in  such  a  view,  and  with  such  a  thought  !  It  > 
emphatically  no  sacrifice.  Say  rather  it  is  a  privilege.  Anxietv. 
sickness,  suffering,  or  danger,  now  and  then,  with  a  forego  in.: 
of  the  common  conveniences  and  charities  of  this  life,  may  make 


2GO        LIVINGSTONE'S  AFRICAN  LIFE  NO  SACRIFICE. 

us  pau<e,  ami  c-uu-e  the  spirit  to  waver,  and  tin-  .-mil  to  sink,  hut 
let  this  only  U-  l'<>r  a  moment.  All  these  are  nothing  when  com- 
pared with  tlir  glorv  which  shall  hereafter  be  revealed  in  ami 
l«»r  u-.  I  never  made  a  sacrifice.  Of  tin-  we  ought  not  to  talk, 
when  we  remember  the  great  suerifiiv  whirh  UK  made  who  left, 
hi-  Father'-  thn>ne  on  high  to  give  him-elf  ll>rn-: — "Who 
lieing  tin-  brightness  of  that  Father's  glorv,  and  the  express 
image  of  hi-  person,  and  upholding  all  things  hy  the  \vonl  of 
hU  [Miwer,  when  he  had  by  himself  purged  our  sins,  sat  down 
OH  tin-  ri^lit  hand  «»f  the  maj»-stv  on  high." 

Kn^lir-h  [M-oplc  are  tn-ate<l  with  re-p«-i-t  ;  and  the  mU-ionarv 
oil n  earn  hi>  living  hy  his  gun — a  coinx-  not  opm  to  a  country 
(  unite.  I  would  ratln-r  he  a  poor  mi— ionarv  than  a  j»oor  curate. 

Then  tin-re  is  the  plea-suit  pro-;pect  of  rcttiniiivj  home  and 
.«<?eing  the  agrw-ahle  liict-s  of  his  eountrvwomcn  a^ain.  I  -upjM)-e 
]  pn--<-nt  a  pn-tty  contrast  to  you.  At  ( 'aim  we  nn-t  a  party  of 
\oung  Kngli.-h  people,  who-<-  faces  were  (jnite  a  coutni>t  to  the 
skinny,  withered  one-,  of  tho-e  \\  ho  had  -pent  the  latter  years 
of  tin  ir  life  in  a  tropical  clime;  thev  were  the  fir>t  n>-v  cheeks 
I  had  -ecu  lor  -ixtifti  year-  ;  yon  can  hardly  tell  how  pleasant 
it  i-  to  -ev  the  hlooming  ehei-ks  of  young  ladie-  hejlire  rue,  after 
an  al»-eiiee  of  -ixteeti  years  from  -ndi  deliglitful  oltjects  i»i'  con- 
teniplation.  There  i-  al-o  the  pleasure  of  the  welcome  home, 
and  I  ln-artilv  thank  \'ou  for  the  welcome  von  have  given  me 
<iii  the  present  occasion  ;  l>ut  there  i-  al-o  the  hope  of  the  welcome 
word-  of  our  L<>rd,  "  \\  ell  done,  good  and  faithful  servant." 

I  Keg  to  direct  vour  attention  to  Africa  ; — I  know  that  in  a 
few  vear-  I  -hall  IK-  cut  oil' in  that  coimtrv,  which  i-  now  op« n  ; 
do  not  let  it  he  shut  again  !  I  go  hack  to  Africa  to  trv  to  make 
an  open  path  lor  commerce  and  Christianity;  do  you  carrv  out 
th.-  work  which  I  have  U-gun.  I  I.KAVK  IT  WITH  v»r! 


CHAPTER     XV. 
AOAIN  IN  AFKICA. 

Results  of  P,  (Torts  at  Universities  — Universities'  Mission  —  Livinirstonp  App<>int«l 
llriti-.li  Consul — Intcrvit-w  with  the  (^ueen —  li.cn.snns  for  Accepting'  the 
Ciovernmcntiil  Appointment — Love  for  hi>  Mother  -Cure  of  her — (iovcrnincni 
Appropriation — Tin-  Farewell  I!;im|iiet  - 1  >iMin<_'iiishi-<|  AsseinMy-  Spceelie*- 
Sir  Roderick  Mureliison —  LiviiiL'Mniie's  Aildre-*  Arrangements  Completed-— 
Members  of  the  Expedition — The  Steam  Laimeh  — The  "Pearl" — Th*  De- 
parture from  Kn^land —  Livingstone's  Ilc>pon«ihility —  \\"li;it  the  (iovernmcnt 
F.xpec-ted— Letters  hy  the  Way  — Arrival  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Xaml»-i. 

THE  effort  of  Dr.  Livingstone  at  the  jjreat  universities  \\as 
not  only  an  occasion  full  of  complimentary  attentions  ;  it  \vas  aw 
occasion  which  did  not  pass  from  the  hearts  of  the  noble  men 
with  whom  he  had  held  loving  counsel,  and  he  was  rejoiced  to 
witness  speedy  preparations  on  the  part  of  Oxford  and  Cam- 
bridge, in  which  they  were  joined  bv  the  I'niver.-ities  of  Dur- 
ham and  Dublin,  for  establishing  a  mission  in  Africa,  to  be 
known  as  the  "  Universities'  Mission  to  Central  Africa." 

The  time  was  now  drawing  nigh  when  he  felt  that  he  could 
no  longer  indulge  himself  in  the  comforts  of  home,  even  though, 
while  there,  his  heart .  and  hands  were  full  of  labors.  He  had 
been  appointed  by  her  muje.-ty  "  British  Consul  to  the  Portu- 
guese Possessions  in  South  Africa."  a  position  which  he  was 
constrained  to  accept,  because  it  afforded  facilities  tor  prosecuting 
his  work  of  opening  Africa  to  the  light  of  the  gospel,  which  he 
could  not  enjoy  as  the  missionary  of  any  board.  Then-  w;u<  al>o 
a  demand  on  him  to  assume  relations  which  would  be  more 
remunerative.  His  aired  mother  needed  hi.- aid,  ami  his  noble 
heart  would  not  excuse  himself  from  so  holy  a  duty  a>  that  of 
providing  for  the  comfort  of  hi.-  mother,  bv  even  the  important 
duties  of  his  distant  mis.-ion.  lie  loved  the  Africans,  but  lie 
did  not  feel  himself  called  to  sutler  the  light  to  go  out  in  the 
home  of  his  mother  that  he  might  kindle  one  on  the  hearth  of 
his  adopted  brethren.  The  little  incident,  coming  we  hardly 
16  -f'l 


•jr,2  FAKKWKI.I.    HAX^t'KT. 

know  lio\v  to  onr  knowkxlgv,  sparkK>  like  a  jewel  over  tlu1  heart 
11}'  tln>  man  we  havi-  already  learned  to  love  not  U->s  than  we 
honor  him. 

Having  appointed  him  a-  it-  aml>a— ador.  thr  ^orernment 
u!-o  appropriate*!  i'~t<»on  for  the  lining  mit  «l  an  cxjMMlition  to 
explore  tin1  /amlM>i  ami  tin-  iici'jhlmi'iii^  etumtrv,  to  IM-  headed 
'•v  I  >r.  Living-tone.  Aii'l  IMT  Maje-tv  liotionil  the  man  who 
!ia«l  li'i-oiiic  tin-  central  o'.jret  of  tin-  tini.-.  with  a  |M>r>«inul  in- 
terview. Tin-  K"val  <  icii;jraj)hical  S..  i.-i\  to«ik  a  il«-cj>  intcivsl 
in  tin'  new  oxjHtlition,  anil  <'in'  of*  tin-  nm-t  int«T«-tinur  i-v«ints  of 
I  >r.  Livin^-t'>ii<  '-  -'>i"'.irn  in  Kn^lairl  \\a-  tin-  liin-wdl  hanijiu-t 
\\iih  which  the  ilistin^ni^heil  iiie[iil)cr>  i-l'1. hi-  ^rcat  -oeietv  hc»n- 
'ii-e.l  him  mi  the  l.",t!i  <.f  I''e!irn.ir\  ,  iStlS.  The  liiiinjnet  wa- 
j  n-i'l'tl  nver  l>v  Sir  Il'-l-riek  Mnrchi>on,  an.l  there  were 
i  I'ir.'  ilian  tln'e-  hnniln-'l  gentlemen,  manv  (•{'them  well  kn.iwn 
:  ii'l  "t"  iiln-t  ri"ii-  ra:i!%.  S  i"ii<-e  an-1  art  were  t  in  -re  t..  do  honor 
ti  a  ii"li!'-  niaii.  The  ehurdi  ami  th<-  >tate  etime  JM  hid  pnl- 
-;>eiil  t..  the  |.|(1-i  l-iithlul  .-•  rva! 1 1  of  1 » •! h .  T ! ie  a : 1 1 1 >a.--a« l«>r-  < >f 
peMtnark.  S\\e.],n  and  V-rwav  were  there,  and  nian\  nolilc- 
and  ladie-  tilled  the  ^alleri.--,  d< -lighted  to  \\itm—  the  j.roe,-,-d- 
in_r-  and  hear  t!ie  -jut-ehes.  'I  here  \\.-re  many  of  ih.-.-  during 

'lie    eVellilli:.          The   e  Ve|'-a  I'de|  1 1      ]tre-lde|l!      dellVel'i  (|    a    el  Kl  l'a«  't  el'- 

i>tie  add  re--,  in  the  i:ii<l~!  of  which,  after  referring  to  the  ser- 
vice which  their  honored  '_rne-t  had  relidere«l  to  tho-e  interc-t- 
,klij.-!i  are  more  con-|»i.-noii-  in  human  attention.  h<-  -aid: 

'  The-e  are  _M'eat  claim-  n )>oti  the  admiration  nl  men  of  -cieiiee  ; 

nit,  _Teat  a-  tliev  are,  the\-  1'all  far  -hort  of  othi-r-  which  attach 
to  the  name  of  the  mi--ionarv  who.  |.\  hi-  lidelitv  t"  hi-  \\ord. 
liv  hi-  coii-cientioii-  re-ard  lor  In-  en^a-_ri -incut  -,  won  thcatl'ec- 
:  ion  of'  the  nat  ive-  of  A  irica  l»v  t  he  e\ani|ile  which  IP  -ei  Kef  ire 
them  in  hi-  treatment  of  tin  j.oor  |ie,,|,!,.  \\  ho  followeil  him  in 
hi-  ar  h:"ii-  n-eareln-  through  that  -jn-ar  contiii'iit." 

I  lie    -pvet  h    ot       1  >!  .     I  .1  Vlll'J-tollc     o||      till-      oci-.i-|i,n      1-      Jiaftii'M- 

la/lv  inf'-rc-!  m_',  a-  :ri\'ne_r  a  complete  :ii-einnit  of  the  ^reat 
travelli-r'-  plan-.  II-  ap-e  and  -aid: 

"  \Vh-n  I  \\a-  in  \  !'ri-  i  1  could  ii"t  1'iit  !••.  ,lv  f.  ,r\\ard  with 
•OVOM-  ant  ictp-i!  ion  to  m\-  arrival  1:1  mv  nati\e  land  ;  IHII  when 
I  rem.-mlM  r  !,..•.  |  !  i\«-  l»-eii  r-  ••  ei  •,  .  d.  and  v.  hen  |  |.)l,-.-t  that 
I  am  !io\v  a;. on  i  t'lvniM1.'  to  th-  •>c«-ni  '•!  nr.  !•  •••',;i<  r  lal  »ir-,  I 


FAKKWKI...    SI'KK*  II  2(,.{ 

urn  at  :i  loss  ho\v  to  express  in  words  the  let /ings  of  rnv  heart. 
In  former  times,  while  L  wjis  performing  what  I  eon>-id<  red  to 
IK;  my  duty  in  Africa,  I  leit  great  pleasure  in  the  work  ;  ami 
now,  when  I  perceive  that  all  eves  are  directed  to  mv  future 
conduct,  1  I'eel  as  i!'  I  were  laid  under  a  load  of  obligation  to  do 
better  than  1  have  ever  done  as  yet.  1  expect  to  find  for  mv- 
self  no  lar^e  fortune  in  that  eountrv,  nor  do  I  expeet  to  explore 
Jinv  large  portions  of  a  new  country,  but  I  do  hope  to  find 
through  that  part  of  the  country  which  I  have,  already  explored, 
a  pathway  bv  means  of  the  river  Zambesi  which  mav  lead  to 
highlands  when'  Iv.iropeans  mav  form  a  settlement,  and  where, 
bv  opening  up  communication  and  establishing  commercial 
intercourse  with  the  natives  of  Africa,  thev  mav  slowlv,  but  not 
tin1  less  surclv,  impart  to  the  people  of  that  eountrv  the  knowl- 
edge and  the*  inestimable  blessings  of  Christianity. 

"  I  am  glad  to  have  connected  with  me  in  this  expedition  mv 
g/.llant  friend  C'aptain  Bedingfield,  who  knows  not  onlv  what 
African  rivers  are,  but  also  what  are  African  levers.  With  his 
aid  I  may  be  able  t  »  discover  the  principle-  of  the  river  s\>tem 
of  that  great  continent,  and  if  I  find  that  svstem  to  be  what  I 
think  it  is,  I  propose  to  establish  a  depot  upon  the  Zambesi,  and 
from  that  station  more  especially  to  examine  into  that  river 
system,  which,  according  to  the  statement.-  of  the  native-,  if 
discovered,  would  all'ord  a  pathwav  to  the  eountrv  bevond, 
where  cotton,  indigo,  and  other  raw  material  might  be  obtained 
to  anv  amount. 

"  1  am  happy  also  in  being  accompanied  bv  men  experienced 
in  geologv,  in  botany,  in  art,  and  in  photographv,  who  will 
bring  back  to  England  reports  upon  all  tho*e  point-,  which  I 
alone  have  attempted  to  deal  with,  and  with  verv  little  means 
at  mv  disposal. 

"  The  success — it'  I  may  call  it  succes- — which  has  attended 
mv  former  ell'orts  to  open  up  the  coimtrv  mainly  depen<led  upon 
my  entering  into  the  l! -clings  and  the  wishes  of  the  people  of 
the  interior  of  Afri-ea.  I  found  that  the  tribes  in  the  interior 
of  that  eountrv  were  ju-t  a-  anxion-  to  have  a  part  of  the  sea- 
board a-  I  was  to  open  a  communication  with  the  interior,  and 
I  am  quite  certain  of  obtaining  the  co-operation  of  those  tribe.* 
in  my  next  expedition.  Should  I  succeed  in  mv  endeavor, 


2G4  FAKEWKI.I.    SPKKfH. 

s«hou!d  we  !*•  ahle  t<*  open  a  nun  uw  meat  ion  advantageous   to 

oiir.-clve>  with  tin.'  natives  of  the  interior  of  Ai'riea,  it  would  be 
our  i;nat  «lutv  to  muter  UJHUI  them  tho-e  ^ivat  benefits  of 
(  hri-tianity  \\liieli  have  U-en  fovstowttl  upon  otir.-elve.-.  Let  us 
Hot  make  the  -<iiiie  ini.-take  in  Afriea  that  we  have  made  in 
Ititiia,  lint  l«-t  u-  take  i<>  that  eountrv  our  Christianity  with  n-. 

'•  I  confe-.-  that  I  am  ii"t  -anguine  enough  to  hope  fur  aiiv 
••pe,  .lv  p-.-u!t.-  fp>m  thi-  e\jM-ditioii,  l.iit  I  am  -anguine  a-  to  i;> 
ultimate  re-u!t.  1  lii-1  mnvinitil  that  if  \\«'  ean  ostal»li>h  a 
.-•>-;«  in  uf  free  lal>or  in  Alri'-a,  it  \\iil  have  a  ni"-t  deei»htl  in- 
ilii'-ii'-f  njMin  -laverv  throughout  the  world.  Sneees>,  however, 
nndi-r  ProvidfiUT,  dfju-mK  upuii  u-  a>  l'.ni_rli>lnnen.  I  lu<ik 
up'-ii  Kn^lUlinifii  a~  |H-riia|>s  the  ni'«,-t  frn-dom-lovinj;  people  in 
tin-  world,  and  I  think  that  tin-  kindlv  !'•<  liiiLT  whii-h  has  Iwen 
ili.-playeil  towards  me  <inee  inv  return  to  m\  native  land  has 
ari-i-n  from  tin-  Iwlief  that  mv  i-|]i.rt-  mi'jht  at  >om<-  future  time 
ti-n  1  Jo  put  an  end  to  the  odious  tnitli-1  in  -lavi--.  Kn^laml  ha-, 
unt'irtunatflv,  U-en  corn  pel  l<-d  to  obtain  cotton  and  other  raw 
material  from  -lave  State-,  ami  ha.-  thu-  lw<  11  the  main.-tav  and 
-upport  of  -laverv  in  Aim-rlea.  Snrelv,  then,  it  fo!!o\\-  that  if 
we  can  -ueeeed  i ii  ol it ai ii i iiLr  the  raw  material  Irom  other  -oinves 
than  Irom  the  -lave  State-  of  America  we  should  -trike  a  ln-avv 
hlow  at  tin-  -v-tein  ot'  -laverv  it -elf. 

••  I  do  not  \\i-h  to  ai'oii-e  expectation-  in  connection  with 
thi-  expedition  which  mav  never  }<••  reali/ed,  hut  what  I  want 
to  du  i-  to  .j.-t  in  the  thin  end  oj'  the  \vi -d'je.  and  then  I  leave  it 
to  I..-  .!i'i\-eii  home  1  )\'  Mn^li-h  en-Tjv  and  l''.!iL'li-h  spirit. 

"  I  cannot  e\pn---  to  \  on  m  a'lcijnate  lan_rua_re  the  -en-o 
\\!ii'h  I  entertain  of  the  kindne—  \\hn-h  I  have  n-eeivtd  -nice 
mv  I'turn  to  tin-  e.iiintrv.  hut  I  i-an  a--ure  \'oii  that  1  -hall 
ever  retain  a  'jrateful  r-  •<••, !!.•,•'  1.  ,n  of  th.-  \\av  \oii  h.T\e  rereivinl 
in.'  on  the  eve  of  mv  departure  IP>HI  mv  nats\e  land. 

"  Kef- p-nee  ha.-  lieen  made  in  laiiL'iia^e  m-i-t  kind  to  Mr-. 
Living-tone.  N'o\\,  it  i-  -'-ap-elx  tair  to  a-L  a  man  to  prai-i- 
hi-  o\\  n  v\it'-,  but  1  .an  onl\  -av  that  \\  lnn  1  1.  ft  hi  r  at  t!u- 
('ape,  i.-Hinj'  her  that  I  -h"ti!d  return  in  l\\«  \t-ar-,  and  \\Leii 
it  ha  j'p-  n-  d  that  I  ua-  aV-.-.  nt  !•  'iir  \iar-  and  a  li  li  I.  I  -uppo-ed 
that  I  -h..iiM  appear  li.-f..p  h.  r  v.  ith  a  d:ima-_'"l  charaeti-r.  I 
wa.-,  however,  t''i\'i\in.  M  \  \\i!e  -,s  ill  accompaiiv  me  1:1  this 


A    CHAUACTKKISTir    UKI'LV.  2(i5 

expedition,  and  1  In-Hove  will  bo  most  useful  to  mo.  She  h 
familiar  with  the  languages  of  South  Africa,  she  is  able  to  work, 
she  is  willing  to  endure,  and  she  well  knows  (hat  in  that  coun- 
trv  one  must  put  one's  hand  to  everything.  In  the  country  to 
which  I  am  about  to  proceed  she  knows  that  the  will;  mu>t  \>c 
the  maid-of-all-worlc  within,  while  the  husband  must  be  the 
jaek-of-all-trades  without,  and  glad  am  I  indeed  that  I  am  to 
be  accompanied  bv  mv  guardian  angel.  Allow  me  now  to  say 
just  one  word  in  reference  to  our  chairman  ;  let  me  just  tell  you 
that  L  found  a  few  days  back  an  abstract  from  an  addiv.-.s  which 
he  delivered  to  the  Geographical  Society  in  1N-VJ,  and  which  lie 
had  the  assurance  to  send  to  me.  In  that  address  my  distin- 
guished friend  foreshadowed  a  great  portion  of  those  discoveries 
which  L  subsequently  made,  and  all  I  can  now  say  is  that  I 
hope  he  will  not  do  the  same  thing  again." 

All  things  were  now  readv.  Some  time  before  Lord  I'al- 
merston,  then  Prime  Minister,  had  sent  a  distinguished  member 
of  the  bar  to  Dr.  Livingstone,  to  ask  him  what  he  could  do  for 
him,  and  his  reply  had  been:  "  Open  the  Portuguese  ports  of 
East  Africa."  Xow  he  began  to  anticipate  the  reali/ation  of 
his  request.  lie1  was  about  starting  to  those  coasts,  protected 
bv  English  authority  and  clothed  with  the  dio-nitv  of  an 
English  official,  to  search  out  in  the  name1  of  England  the  hid- 
den land.  The  members  of  the  expedition  had  been  select e  1 
by  himself.  They  were  ('aptuin  Bedingfield,  II.  X.,  well  known 
for  his  exploration  of  the  ( 'ongo  and  other  African  rivers;  Dr. 
Kirk,  M.  D.,  of  Edinburgh,  as  botanist  ;  Mr.  R.  Thornton,  of 
the  School  of  Mines,  as  mining  geologist  ;  Mr.  T.  Bains  as 
artist;  Mr.  Rae  as  engine"!-  of  the  launch,  and  Dr.  Living- 
stone's brother,  who  was  expected  to  take  charge-  of  an  e>tab- 
lishment  proposed  to  be  fixed  at  the  confluence' of  one  of  the 
tributaries  of  the  y^ambesi."  A  beautiful  iron  steam  launch 
had  been  constructed  by  order  of  the  o-overnment  for  the  pur- 
poses of  the  expedition — a  vessel  seventv-five  feet  lon-jr,  ei^iit 
feet  broad  and  three  feet  deep,  in  the  shape  of  a  lar^e  flat- 
bottomed  boat,  with  both  end-  alike  and  covered  with  awnings 
— a  precious  piece  of  invention  and  workmanship,  which,  a-  '.e 
shall  find,  was  better  suited  to  dry  land  than  such  a  river  a-  tiio 
Zambesi. 


2li*j  INSTHftTIUNS    OK    HKU    MAJtXTY. 

Thr  farewell  pa-..M-d,  ami  the  good  steamer  "  I 'earl,"  with  tin* 
launch   .-towed   awav  picivmcal   in   lirr  capacious   hull,  and   the 
generous   siipplic-   of  a    liln'ral    government,  received    her   more 
pr«vioti>  car-jo  «\'  huiuan   beings  on  the  loth  of   March.      Such 
men  as  forme*  1  the  exjxtlitiou  eoultl  !*•  at  IK*  loss  for  ixviijiation, 
i-veii  in  tin-  narrow  confines  of  their  little  floating  home.      There 
u~a«.   opportunity  to   reflect   and   converse  ami    lamilian/.e  thein- 
-elvcs  with    the    plans    bv  which    tln-v  hoped    to   serve  Kngland 
and  Africa  most  axivptably.      For   I  >r.  Livingstone  particularly 
tiii^  \v:is  an  e\j>eilitioii  of  v:t-t  re>j»oii-il)i!il\ .      lie  had  awakenetl 
the  inter«-t  which  had  determined  the  action  of  the  government. 
:.:id    which    had   moved   a   numl>er    of  orLrani/.ations    to    project 
mi— ion>  tor  central  Afriea.      His  ri'sjMinsihilitv  imposed  heavier 
laimr  on  him  than  he  had  ever   jH'rformed.      ilc  mti>t  a>>i>t  the 
i.ii-'ionario   who   were  about    leaving    Knglaml  ;    he  could    not 
t.iink  of  iie^lcctiiiL;  them  ;  and  he  mu>t  see  to  it  that  the  author- 
i.ics  which    had   commi>si(Uie<l    him  be  not    disiji]>ointed    in    tln> 
i— ult-    of   tin-    rnterpri.-e.       The    explicit     instructions    ot'   her 
Maje-tv'-  government  were  that  the  knowledge  alreadv  attained 
of  the  geographv  and  the  mineral   and  agricultural  roource.-  of 
ea-tern    and    central     Africa    be   extended,  that    the  acquaintance 
of  the   inhabitants   be    improved,  that    thev  mi-jht    be  taught    to 
applv  tlii-m-' -K'e-    to    the   cultivation  of  their    laml-  \\ith  a  view 
to  the  production  of  raw  matt  rial  to  be  exported  to  Kngland  in 
return    for    I'.nti-h    mamif'actiires  ;    and    it    wa.-    hoped    that,    bv 
••ncouniijing   the    native-;   to   occiipv  themselves   in    the  develop- 
ment   of  th«-    n-oiirer-    of  the   coiintrv,  a    con.-idernble   advance 
mijlit  be  made  touard-  the  extinction  of  the  -lave  trade,  a>  they 
\\..u!d    n.it    be    lon-_r    iii  di-coverini:  that  the  Ilii-mer  \\oiild  even- 
tiiallv  be  a  more  certain  .-oiirce  of  profit    than    the    latter.      '1  ho 

e\|M-ditioIi    \\M~     ~e|lt    ill    accordance    with    tile   -ettled    (lohey    <>l     tllr 

I-'.:i_'li-h  L'"Veniiiieiit  ;  and  the  Marl  ot"  ( 'larendon  being  then  at 
« !;.-  h'  ad  "f  t  he  I-'.irei_Mi  OlVice,  the  mi  — ion  \\  a-  organi/i-d  under 
I.!-  inii:i'-diat«-  care.  It  \\  a.-  an  enti-rpri-e.  ho\\.  \ .  i-,  which  cm- 
1,.  ,di-d  the  prineipl.-  of  no  on.-  party.  It  pov-.c-.M-il  the  heart^ 

of    the    p,.,pl.-. 

I-'IMIH    the  vari'iit-    point-,  uli'i--    opp.irt  unit  i>  -   \\ep-    alTorde*! 

letf.  T-    Were    -i-||t     \>:\<    1.      ''•      I''.!l/!:i!ld,    ll!'      1  •  P  :  t :  1 1  1  1 1  _:     ill'1    -allic    lottV 


AUKIVAL    AT   TIIK    XAMHKSI.  2(\, 

fittingly  distinguished  those  truly  great  .spirits  which  hav< 
alwavs  led  the  van  of  Christian  eivili/ation.  In  due  time  tin- 
ship  had  passed  tin;  ('ape  and  Xatal,  and  drew  near  to  the  for- 
ests of  mangrove,  which,  coining  down  to  the  water's  edge,  and 
casting  their  shadows  on  the  confluence  of  the  /atnlx-si  with  the 
sea,  seemed  OH  if  conspiring  with  the  usurpers  of  the  soil  for  its 
concealment. 


CRICKET. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

ARRIVAL    AT    TKTK. 

w  &n<\  thf  Zamtx-ti I''.«t«-ritv'i  Aj'pluii"-!--- Tin-  F.x]>lanntl<ni  of  the 
Thr  Koiifiujr  —  Tin-  llur ---Tin-  Country  Tiruiility  of  Nulivrx  —  1'\\r 
Fertility  ..f  S..11  Tlu-  Nairn--'  < 'uri-.sjty  -  Tli.-ir  < 'uj.i.lity  -  Tlu-  Clianm-l  Tin- 
l>f|>artun- of  thf  "  I'l-arl"— Th«-  Fir»t  Work  Ma/-ar<-  Kxrit.-ni.-nt  I.iviiik.-- 
M-'iu-'-  »'ourair<-  Mariano'*  ('rin-lly  Tin-  /ulu-  Tin  ir  Tax  Tllfir  Clionic- 
t/r.  Hospitality,  ••tr.  /ulu  I..i\\\i-r  Slnip:iiu':i  "I'll"  (ir'i\«-  1'inliT  tlu1 
Ilai'J'.ili  Il«-rr|,!i..ii  at  SviiiKi  Sriili'T  FiTFiiro  .\rri\ai  lit  T«4o— "  We  will 
SI.-.-].  To-nii;ht." 

\<rnvrni-TANi>iNi;  tin-  ••\i>n-.>i..u-  of  PoriiiLMK-c  -vinpatliy 
with  tin-  'jruwin^  int«'n-.-t  <>t'  th«-  c'ivilizcd  w«>rl<l  in  AtVi«"in  «lis- 
i-nvt-rv,  thcv  havt-  tin-  cr«ilit  <>('  studiously  preventing,  as  far  as 
th'-v  have  b<rn  alile,  nn-i<-r  jiretfiicf  nf  fri<'inllin<s,<,  all  tlmsi- 
c\ jM-<liti.)ii-  \\hich  |(Mil<»-«l  t«i\\anl  tin-  i-U'vation  <»f  the  native-  in 
the  ^rade  nf  manhood,  and  avn\ve<l  their  antipathy  t<>  the  tra«le 
in  -laves.  The  care  whieh  tin  v  have  Ixi-n  at  t<>  (il>-«-nre  the 
l_rreat  ea.-tern  jtathwav  toward  the  h.  art  of  the  continent  i-  too 
iiotircal'le  and  reproachful  to  e-eape  the  remark  and  ei-n-nre  of 
mi''  e\-<-n  \\ho-e  eharitv  was  almost  a  fault  sometimes.  I  >r. 
Li vin^-tone  eniild  not  suppress  or  n>M<val  hi-  impatienei-  when 
he  wa>  satisfied  that  th«-  eiipiditv  of  the  nominal  oeeiipant-  and 
|K,--.i-,,(»r^  of  the  ZainlM>i  delta  hail  moved  them  to  pnieti-e 
il'-iili- -rite  d> -eept ion,  !iv  mean-  <•)'  map-  and  published  pap«-r--, 
rotieermir/  the  real  entrnnee  nt  tip1  iiolih-  river  whieh  they  had 
d'-_rrad'-d  int'ia  hiprhwav  for  tlieir  unlawful  and  inhuman  tnitVn*. 
If  i-  wi-11  kiinwn  that  the  "  Kwakwa."  or  "  Iliver  ot  (^uili- 
tuane,"  -"in'-  -i\tv  mi!<--  distant  tV"m  th«'  mouth-  "I  tin-  Xam- 
in-j*!.  ha-  !"ii'_r  IMI-II  rejin-t  nfi-d  a-  th«-  principal  <  nt  raii'-<-  t"  that 
•/re; it  n\«-r;  while  m  t;n-t  tin-  "principal  entraii'-t-  \MI-  little 
ifiop-  than  a  natural  canal  a!"M_p  uhi«'h  -la\'i-  li<.;it-  nii'jht  pa.-- 
troni  th-'  /.aml»-i  to  (^uilimaiie,  at  -n«'h  time-  a-  tin-  overflow 


POSTERITY'S  AIM-LAI'SK.  200 

of  the  river  rendered  it  navigable;  and  only  when  the  enterprise, 
of  Livingstone  had  u.-v>oeiat<?d  the  dis4-overv  of  the  Zaml>c.si  with 

» 

his  name,  were  the  "authorities''  provoked  to  eon  less  that  the 
harbor  of  the  Kongone  liad  been  for  years  a  place  of  refuse  for 
their  slave-ships  from  the  "  per*efUtions  of  Kngli>h  cruisers." 
If  \ve  may  depeiul  on  a  statement  which  confesses  Mich  nefarious 
deceptions  and  such  selfish  disregard  of  the  progress  of  geograph- 
ical science  and  the  anxieties  oi'  all  Christendom  U'sidcs,  in 
order  to  recover  the  forfeited  glory  of  discovery,  we  cannot 
award  them  a  pri/.e  which  shall  be  any  glory  to  them,  except  as 
it  is  glorious  to  emulate  the  selfishness  and  falseness  of  the  arch 
enemv  of  human  happiness,  who  labors  always  to  divert  the 
rays  of  heaven Iv  light  from  human  souls,  that  a  darkened  realm, 
where  sin  and  sorrow  struggle  helplessly,  may  recognize  his  vile 
dominion  and  pay  him  tribute.  It  is  certain  that  Christian 
people  all  over  the  world,  whose  hearts  are  swelling  with  hope 
and  jov  while  they  trace  the  advance  of  African  missions,  will 
think  of  David  Livingstone  when  thev  prav  for  their  sons  and 
daughters  ascending  the  Zambesi.  It  is  certain  that  thoughtful 
men,  the  world  over,  will  never  erect  their  monument-  to  the 
Portuguese  when  they  realize  the  benefits  of  African  commerce. 
Whatever  knowledge  of  the  real  highway  may  have  been  care- 
fully treasured  at  Lisbon,  and  turned  to  the  account  of  selfish 
officials,  the  Governor  of  Tete  testified,  on  the  !>th  of  Jnlv, 
1850,  in  a  letter  addressed  to  a  brother  official  of  Portugal,  that 
Dr.  Livingstone  was  the  first  man  who  had  passed  from  the  sea 
to  Tete  over  the  real  outlet  of  the  Zambesi.  lie  claims  the 
glory  of  first  exploring  the  mouths  through  which  the  great 
river,  which  has  come  into  such  prominence  in  connection  with 
his  travels,  pours  its  waters  into  the  ocean.  lie  reported  j'm/r 
distinct  outlets — the  Milambe,  which  is  the  most  westerly  ;  the 
Konuone,  the  Luabo.  and  the  Timbwe  (or  Mnselo'i.  ( )f  these 
mouths  the  "'report"  savs  :  "After  the  examination  of'  three 
brunches  by  the  able  and  energetic  surveyor,  Francis  Skead, 
U.  X.,  tlu/  KonLjone  was  ibund  to  be  the  best  entrance.  The 
immense  amount  of  sand  brought  down  by  the  Zambesi  ha-  in 
the  course  of  aijes  formed  a  sort  of  promontory,  against  which 
the  lonir  swell  of  the  Indian  ocean,  beating  during  the  prevail- 
ing winds,  has  formed  bars,  which,  acting  against  the  water's  of 


0711  THK    KOXOOXK. 

the  delta,  may  have  led  to  their  exit  sideways.  The  Kongone 
i-  one  of  the  lateral  branches,  ami  the  safest,  inasmuch  as  the 
Uir  ha.-  nearly  t\\"  lathom.s  on  it  at  low  \\ater,  ami  the  rise  at 
*|>rin^  tide-  i-  from  twelve  to  fourteen  leet.  1  he  bar  is  narrow 
ami  thr  j>a-.-a^f  marly  straight.  \\Yrc  it  buoyed,  ami  a  lieucon 
plait-don  l'«-arl  island,  it  \voiikl  alway>  be  safe  for  a  steamer. 
\\  hen  tin-  \\iml  is  Iroin  the  ea>t  or  north  thr  bar  is  Mijooth  ;  it 
from  the  south  ami  -onthca.-t,  it  ha-  a  lu-avv  break  on  it,  and 
i-  not  to  Iw  attempted  in  l»oat.-.  A  strong  current,  setting  to 
tin-  ea-t  \\licii  the  ti<lf  i>  tlowiiiir,  ami  to  the  \\ot  when  ebbing, 
mav  <lr:iLr  a  l)«at  <ir  >liiji  into  the  bn-aktrs.  If  one  is  doubtful 
of  hi-  longitude,  and  run-  ea-t,  lie  will  >oon  see  the  land  at 
Tnnl)We  di-;ip|M-;ir  awav  to  the  north  ;  and  romin^  we-t  a^ain, 
he  i-ui  ea.-ilv  make  out  Ka>t  Lnabo  tVom  it-  jjreat  -i/.e,  and 

Ki'IlLfne    |i.llii\SS   -e\'ell    Illilo    Wot.        The    K  ii||-j.  .1 1,  •   i-   five   UliK1?! 

^a.-t  »i  the  Milamlie;  al>"iit  -even  mile-  ea.-l  of  the  Konpuu*  is 
tin  l-!:i.-t  Lnabu,  and  live  mil«->  ea-t  -till  i-  tli(  1  imbwe." 

It  i-  remarkable  that  no  PorttiijiieM1  iH-idi-nct>  were  fouiul 
within  "i/'/litij  jut!'*  "i  ami  iiiniifli  "f  tin  /.<i inl>i *i .  \\  hether 
thev  were  ignorant  of  them,  or,  a-  tin  v  nun  claim,  had  their 
-eti  lein-  iil~  -o  far  a\\  av  a-  a  jii'-ee  i.f  -trate^v  in  the  inten-t  of  the 
.slave  trade,  i-  a  «|iie-tinii  which  we  need  not  paii-e  to  di-eus<. 
\\'e  have  the  t '  -I  i  1 1 1«  •!  I  v  of  the  Livin^-tom-  expedition,  that  the 
onK  human  beiii-^-  that  were  -ecu,  a-  the  "  I 'earl  "  w  a.-  steered 
into  tin-  Koii'jone,  were  the  dii-k\  iiativi-  Icapitii;  tVom  their 
caiio<  -  and  da.-hiir_r  awav  through  the  maii'/rovi-  thicket--,  in 
e\  id>  nt  hrror  of  the  w  lute  man,  w  ho,  it  known  to  them  at  all, 
ua-  onlv  a--oeiated  with  ineinorie-  o|'  bi-other.-  or  -i-tei>  or 
children  drau'J'd  awav  in  chain-  to  harder  iHiiidap1  in  unknown 
land-. 

S'-nie  of  tli'  jiarlv  on  board  the  "I 'earl"  were  iiini-.-d  to 
wild- rn---  -e.-ne-  and  the  wonderful  •  \ ul» -ram  v  o|  nature  in 
tr"|>i'--il  land-.  I  'h«  v  -eeined  to  lia\e  ent-r.  d  a  n«  w  worKI. 
|-'.v  r\  thin _•  tln-y  -aw,  every  -onnd  ihat  I-  il  \\\<><\\  \\\<  ir  car-,  had 
:-.!l  tli-  Ire- hue—  ..f  novel iv.  The  tr--e-  and  the  |,!.mt-  wen  ne\\  ; 
the  tlowi  r-  and  t!..-  tVuil-.  the  In-a-t-.  the  bird-,  tin  in-eet-.  all 
were  -!ian_fe  and  \\oiid<  i-|ul.  The  \.-rv  -k\  it--  It  -.ein.d  new, 

U'lo'A  i;i/    'A  it  1 1    e,  ,!,,]•-    or    -|i:irk  !ill'_'    \\  il  ll      l-oll-tcllatioll-     \\>   \  e|-    -eell 

in  norihini    clime-.      Tin     art-    and    imlu-lrie-.  o|    other  natioiiH 


THK   SOIL   OF   THK    I>KLTA.  07^ 

Iiad  rot  reclaimed  a  single  square  loot  of  territory  aUmt  the 
mouths  of  tliis  river.  The  wilderness  came  down  to  meet  the 
\vilderness.  An  untamed  land  and  an  untamed  sea.  The  roar 
of  wild  Ijeasts  answered  the  roar  of  the  wild  waves.  The  mur- 
muring sea  responded  to  the  sighing  forot. 

The  first  twenty  miles  along  the  Kongone  they  passed  Ix-tween 
rival  jungles  of  mangrove;  and  when  the  mangroves  wen-  u  f( 
behind,  on  either  hand  there  were  vast  level  plains  of  rich  dark 
soil,  covered  with  gigantic  grasses  which  concealed  the  lairs  of 
wild  beasts  and  intimidated  even  the  most  expert  lnmt<  r>. 
Here  and  there  the  odd-looking  huts  of  the  natives,  mounted 
on  "stilts,"  were  seen  hid  awav  in  bowers  of  bananas  and  corny 
palms.  The  occupants  of  these  little  cotes  were  as  industrious 
as  thev  could  be  expected  to  be,  and  frequently  thev  had  about 
them  an  abundance  of  sweet  potatoes,  pumpkins,  tomatoes. 
cabbages,  onions,  peas,  corn  and  sugar  cane,  which  would  have 
encouraged  the  most  omnivorous  of  our  species  to  think  of  set- 
tlement. The  wonderful  soil  of  this  delta  can  hardlv  have  been 
surpassed  bv  even  the  marvellous  fertility  of  Egvpt  in  the  dav.-, 
when  her  mysterious  river  patron  was  most  lavi.-h  of  his  bless- 
ings. Rice  was  found  to  be  largely  cultivated,  but  the  peculiir 
adaptation  of  the  soil  to  the  sugar  cane  was  quite  apparent,  M  1 
the  members  of  the  expedition  were  convinced  that  this  iv<_ri<iii 
alone,  covering  an  area  of  eighty  miles  bv  about  lit'tv,  properlv 
handled,  would  supply  all  Europe  with  sugar. 

As  thev  ascended  the  river  and  came  amon^r  the  settlement-; 
of  the  people,  the  steamers  were  manifestly  the  strangest  specta- 
cles which  thev  had  looked  on.  Thev  irathered  in  groups 
along  the  banks  to  u-a/e  upon  the  apparition-.  The  "Pearl" 
was  in  their  eyes  a  floating  village,  and  one  old  man  who  eauie 
on  board  wondered  it  it  "was  made  out  of  one  tree."  But 
either  human  nature  is  notably  alike  there  and  here,  or  those 
humble,  ignorant  creatures  have  been  apt  scholars  of  their 
white  masters;  for  great  a- was  their  curio-itv,  it  did  not  exceed 
their  cnpiditv.  Thev  were  as  full  of  i|iie-tious  as  a  I»o-touian, 
but  as  ea^er  tor  a  trade  as  a  Connecticut  peddler.  Whenever 
the  .-hips  halted,  the  li^ht.  swift  canoes  were  .-een  -hooting  o|f 
from  the  hanks,  la-len  with  every  kind  of  fruit  and  li.o.l  \\hi<-h 
the  land  afforded  ;  and  as  they  steamed  oil' again,  an\i»u-  sellers 


272  THF.    ZAMHKSI    <  IIANNKL. 

ran  rx«-ii«-«l!y  nlon^  the  Inmks  holding  up  fowls  and  fruit-  :;;.  1 
l»a-ket-  ->f  net-,  meal  or  ]H»tato«--.  -homing  "  Mai  mid  a !  maionda !  " 
'•  Tiling  f-r  -ale!  thin::-  for  -ale!"  ami  tho-«-  in  the  HUKM-S  fol- 
l<i\v«ti  bravelv  alone,  exhibiting  marvellous  -kill  in  tin-  11-4-  of 
their  rdiort,  brtKul-bhidtfl  paddle*;  when  thev  plea.sol  furring 
their  narrow  \v--el-  alon^  the  Miittutli  .-urfaee  almost  with  the 
Vrloeity  of  arn>w-. 

The  deep  chanm-1  of  the  /aml>e-i  i-  (jnitr  narrow  whrn  <-«i::i- 
j»anil  \\ith  tin-  width  of  the  river;  and  not  oiilv  narrow,  l»nt 
sin-jularlv  tortuoii-,  winding  ah-n-j  ainoii^  the  (•oiinth--  suid- 
Inink-.  tVoiii  -id<-  ttj  side  of  tin-  -trcain,  niarknl  oiilv  liv  tin1 
slight  diarai'tcri-tic  ripple  wh«-n  tin-re  i-  a  frc-h  wind,  and  when 
all  i-  ealtn,  l>v  a  peculiar  boiling  up  of  it-  water  from  -oine 
ai-tioii  l>elow.  '1'he  faet  that  man  i-  an  expert  navipitor  at  the 
-t  a  do.--  nut  -ave  him  from  tin-  sham*- of  eonfosinj^  him-elt 
ini-eral»lv  at  -<  a  on  -ueh  a  riv«  r.  Near  the  i-hnnl  nfSimli..  the 
"  I\:irlV"  draught  \\  a-  toiiml  to  l>e  t»o  ^reat,  and  the  I.ivnij- 
r-toni-  pai'tv  \\  ere  under  the  nei-e--it  v  of  partiii'j;  with  their  e-e. .rt. 

The   ^.  MM  i-   de- lulled    \'»V   tile  expedition   Wefe  plaei-d   oil  oil-     •  •('  til'' 

l*-auti:'ul  Lri'a-^\'  i-!and-  alxnit  tortv  mile-  from  the  liar,  and  tin- 
few  lu-ii  \\h<»  had  Keen  eho-en  to  -hare  the  toil-  and  honor-  nf 
the  d'-\o;ed  mi--ion;irv  explore!-,  in  hi-  new  entcrpri-e,  to.,|x 
l'-:i\e  of  th<-  -ji  n«  roil-  eaptain  of  the  "  1'i-arl,  and  al-o  ot  th.-;r 
I'riend  Sk.-ad,  and  -at  do-,\  n  looking  alter  the  imlih-  -hip  a-  -he 
.'•t'-ani'-d  av^av  to \vard  the  -ea  ajain.  It  rna\  he  a  glooms  pie- 
tur.  .  that  a  LT'-at  -hip  -hoiild  ent'-r  an  unknown  harU»r,  -ai! 
aloii-  an  inikno'.sn  river  f.-ny  mile-.  U-tuien  t'.  .r.-t-  and  jnn- 
•jl<--,  \\lr  [•••  there  \\ere  -trance  lord-  and  hea-l-.  and  flower-  and 
•  re»--,  and  p'  "pie  -t  ranker  and  \\  ilder  than  all.  and  anehoriiii:  in 
fh'-  middle.,!'  the  rivei-,  ph'-roti  a  tiny,  (airy  -!••,  ,kin-j  i-land  a 
f,  -\  m<  n  and  -'or--,  and  !•  a\e  th-  m  tin  n-.  P.u:  it  i-  jn-t  \-.  hat 
Wa-  dot))'.  '|'!i.-  r-uferpri-e  \\  hieh  <Jo,|  had  laid  upon  him  \\a- 

,,!,,•      in     •,..  i,i,-l,      |,e     \\a-    of     l|eee--it\      to    I  •«•    p.   .   ;  I  1  I  a  I' !  \      llld.'pelld.    lit. 

\!,,,,|.  ;iJ!  that  hi-  friend-  in  Kii-jlaiid  e-.iild  do.  after  fiirni-hiiiL 
hi-  "outfit."  ua-  jn-t  tin-:  the-,  could  put  him  do\\  n  ..n  the 
In-rd-  r-  oi'  the  unkno-,\  n  land.  Th-n-  <-an  haidly  l»-  imajin.  d  a 
IIII.P-  h- roie  ..  .  He  than  th'-  landing  of  t!m-i-  l«-\\  men  mi  that 
li'th-  i-l'in-1.  and  th--ir  «|ui'-t.  man!v  leave-taking  of  the  p.od 
wliii..  '1'h'  v  mav  a-  \\<-ll  1»-  though:  of'  a-  h.-in-^  left  aloi,.-  in 


TIIK    FIRST    WORK.  '27') 

the  midst  of  savages,  for  the  Portuguese  settlements  were  only  a 
burlesque  on  colonization  ;  their  pretensions  were  so  poorly  •MI^- 
tained  and  (heir  influence,  so  corrupting,  that  it  would  hav<» 
been  better,  on  many  grounds,  if  Livingstone  had  found  the 
natives  entirely  ignorant  of  white  people. 

It  was  the  ISth  of  June  when  they  were  landed  on  the 
inland.  The  first  thing  to  he  done  was  to  transj>ort  the  stores 
of  the  expedition  to  Shupanga  and  Senna.  The  difficulty  and 
anxiety  of  this  work  was  greatly  increased  l>v  the  distressingly 
unsettled  state  of  the  country.  NVar  was  prevailing  all  around, 
hut  they  were  favored  l>y  delightful  weather,  and  were  enabled 
to  rest  from  their  initiatory  lalx>rs  on  the  l.'Uh  of  August. 
During  these  months  it  was  of  course  necessary  for  a  portion  of 
the  partv  to  remain  on  the  island.  I'Yom  their  little  kingdom, 
over  which  they  asserted  squatter  sovereignty,  they  could  ea-ily 
see  the  large  game  of  the  neighborhood  moving  about  in  the 
forests  or  coming  down  to  the  water's  edge  ;  or  they  could  watch 
the  strange  manoeuvres  of  thousands  of  little  seed-birds,  which, 
like  flocks  of  other  small  birds  in  Africa,  are  wonderfully  expert 
in  the  performance  of  most  eccentric  "  gyrations  and  evolutions," 
separating  and  wheeling  into  columns  again  with  the  most 
thorough  military  precision.  There  were  all  sorts  of  living 
things  in  siirht  except  human  bein^.  The  tedium  of'  long 

~  ~  1  - 

wilderness  journeys  by  land  is  beguiled  by  many  little  perils 
and  difficulties  and  hunting  exploits;  but  our  party  ii-lt  the 
unvarying  wilderness  becoming  dullv  monotonous  before  thev 
reached  Mazaro.  The  uninhabited  expanse  on  either  hand  was 
unquestionably  dreary,  and  the  sporting  of  the  water-fowls  be- 
came verv  commonplace  ;  even  their  interest  in  the  enormous 
monsters,  which  they  might  see  at  any  time,  became  objects  of 
contempt  as  they  became  familiar.  As  far  as  Ma/aro  there 
•were  found  no  traces  which  contradicted  the  claim  of  Dr. 
Livingstone  to  bein^  the  true  discoverer  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Zambesi.  There  was  no  trade  whatever  below  that  point.  All 
the  merchandise  of  Senna  and  Tete  was  conveyed  between  that 
point  and  a  small  >trcam  about  six  miles  distant,  on  men's 
head-;.  On  that  little  stream  they  were  reshipped  and  found 
their  way  to  Quilimane  aloni;  the  Kwakwa.  The  -cenery  was 
bettor  about  Ma/aro.  The  well-wooded  Shupanga  r'd'je 


274  F.X'-ITF.>rFN*T    AT    MA7ARO. 

-tretehed  off  to  tin1  left,  and  in  front  Mile  hills  rise  dimly  fur  in 
the  distawv.  There  is  at  Maxaro  tin-  month  of  a  little  crtt-k,  a 
fe\v  vard-  wide,  flowing  down  with  ronsideraMe  fall  into  the 
rivi-r.  its  entrance  almost  roiwalcd  by  tin-  tall  trr.tss  which 
jjruw-  n,>  in  its  l>ed,  which  is  the  oiilv  explanation  of  a  state- 
ment t«t  IN-  f.imd  in  a  ma|>  published  in  1*">1  by  the  1'ortn- 
rjiit-*-  "  Minister  of  Marine  and  tin-  < 'olnnie-,"  that  "at  Ma/aro 
the  XunlM-i  i-  i>!ii-  inil<-  wide  and  flows  t<>  Qtiilimanc."  The 
/:iin!M~i  i«  iiowli'-n-  ix-arrr  to  (^niliinaiu-  than  it  U  at  Ma/.an>. 

This  litt!«-  |>o-t  wa-  in  threat  r.\<-itnnrnt  when  Livini^-toiu'  and 
partv  arrival.  Th'-n-  ha<l  Ixt-n  a  serion-  Kattlc  n^in^  U'twirn 
tin-  I'ortn^iK^r  and  the  j»eo|»le  of  a  half-iiisU'  chief  named 
Mariano,  a  notoriously  inhtnnan  man.  who  ]\:i<  l»y  hi-  rt-lM-llion 
arid  outrage. ni..  l»:irl»:iritie<  thoroughly  incen-ed  the  1'ortilgiH'sc. 
The  »efiie  of  action  w:u-  cnvi'loiMil  in  a  den-e  to<_f,  which  j»n-- 
venfe<!  the  ]>artv  f'r»:n  hearing  or  -M-IIIJ  anything  ot  the  liattle 

iritil    thev  wet n  the   Around.      Thev  had    aln-.idv  e>tat>li-hed 

friendly  relations  \\-ith  Imth  parties  t,,  this  ijnarn-1,  and  \\ere 
nit-isiinihlv  protected  l»v  the  charm  which  altachc>  to  the  Kn^- 
lish  name.  I>r.  Livin^tonc  land'il  without  the  lca-t  hcsitatn-n 
to  s;ilnt,.  ,.,!ne  <>f  his  ,,1,|  friend-,  and  found  himself  in  the  sid<- 
rninij  -nie]|  and  confronting  the  horrible  siMX'tac-le  of'  mutilated 

l)«.di'-s   of    the   s|:l'|||. 

The  •jtivernor  was  very  ill  of  fever  at  the  time,  and  I  >r.  Liv 
nrj-tojie  -.va-  appealed  to  to  take  him  across  the  river  to  Slm- 
pair_ra  ;  he  tried  in  vain  to  «_fet  sotnelx>dv  to  assist  him  to  the 
l>'tat  with  the  -ick  man,  Imf  no  one  would  volnntei-r  for  s,, 
ilan-n-nuis  an  undertaking,  and  the  ^eni-roii-  visit->r  would  ii"f 
think  of  leaving  another  in  -nch  danger,  -o  he  entered  th<-  hut 
al-iiie,  ami,  with  '•"ii-idcralile  diflienltv,  at  Irn^th  -uc.-.-fded  in 
draj'jni'j'  hi*  exii-lleuey  (•>  the  ship. 

1  in-    I  *»rt  n_rnese    are    even  weaker    in    actual  uar    than    th<  v 
•A--!i!.|  -f.-in  to  IM-  if  line  -!i(«nl<I  make  :m  e-tim:tt<'  nf  tht-ir  l-'pc-  - 
in  'mi'-  ••('   p'-ace.  tr-iin    the  fact   that    iiian\    ")    th"--    \\  h"in  tli'V 
mii-t   dip- ud  on   t-ir  militarv  s,.rvice  :n-e  their  nati\'-  -! 
Iw-id---    ••ntertainin-j1  ii"    -p'-'-ia!     l>i\'e    t'n-  tln-ir  ma-!- TS 
r]t|i-ntlv  a  wholi--onie    regard    for    ''a-    r    ••••  n  -al«-tv.  and    arc  ii"t 
valinntlv  a'.'-r--'  t.i  -i-<-iiriii_p  tint   l»l<--:n,r  in  flr_rli!.       At    Ma/aro 
:he  |'.,rtu_"i---f  wi-re  mi  d"'iMe  dn'v  ;  while  -nine  st.KM 


MARIANO'S    fUUKI.TY.  27-") 

with   great   bravery  against   the  enemy,  other-  wen-   a*   coolK- 
ahooting  at  their  own  slaves  who  were  retreating  to  tin-  river. 

It  may  l>e  notieeo!  that  Mariano,  who  was  proving  so  verv 
annoying  to  the  Portuguese,  was  a  Imff-wmlc,  as  were  rno-t  of 
the  chit-Is  who  have  most  seriously  oppose*!  the  anthoritv  of  the 
colonists.  Indeed  this  class  of  men  are  the  scourge  of  the  whoV 
country;  they  are  the  keenest  slave-hunters,  and  most  blood- 
thirsty warriors,  the  most  atnu-ioiis  villains  generallv,  who  an 
to  he  encountered.  A  gentleman  of  the  highest  standing  told 
Dr.  Livingstone  that  it  was  no  uncommon  event  for  hi-  fiunilv 
to  IK-  disturbed  while  at  dinner  by  a  slave  rushing  into  (he  apart- 
tnent,  pursued  by  one  of  Mariano's  men,  spear  in  hand.  But 
the  people  who  have  pretended  to  colon i/.c  in  such  a  community, 
on  the  false  basis  of  mixed  marriages  with  barbarous  tribes,  and 
encouraging  a  trade  so  demoralizing  as  that  which  ha-  di-tin- 
guished  the  Portuguese  enterprises  in  Africa,  can  hardlv  be  -tir- 
prised  or  cornplam  that  they  have  such  a  harvest  of  trouble 
and  failure.  The  folly  of  the  Portuguese  method  was  abun- 
dantly manifested  by  the  eagerness  with  which  the  natives  ex- 
tended their  most  cordial  hospitalities  to  the  Knu'li-h  expedition, 
which  they  very  quickly  came  to  understand  as  representing  a 
very  different  method  and  superior  design.  Kven  the  rebel < 
under  Mariano,  on  finding  that  Dr.  Livingstone  and  his  partv 
were  Englishmen,  not  seeking  slaves,  but  having  at  heart  the 
real  improvement  of  the  country  and  the  elevation  of  the  people, 
received  them  with  shouts  of  jov  and  welcome. 

The  Marurn,  who  occupy  the  countrv  around  Ma/aro,  like 
the  people  generally  who  have  had  contact  with  white  people 
only  in  the  Lisbon  subjects,  have  be.-ome  very  distrustful,  as 
well  as  covetous  ;  thev  required  to  be  paid  ti>r  all  -ervice-.  and 
wanted  their  pav  in  <nlr<trn'<'  ;  and  the  travellers  naturally  sii-- 
pected  that  the  favorite  canoe-song  of  the  men — the  chorus  of 
which  was,  ''Thou  art  slipperv.  slipperv.  truly  "—was  intende<l 
to  be  a  wittv  explanation  of  their  demand-  tin-  advance  pay. 

The  white  settlers  on  the  we-t  side  of'  the  /ambr-i  were  hardly 
happier  than  the  people  of  the  other  bank'.  The  /ulu-.  or 
Laudeens,  lord  it  there,  and  the  merchant-  of  Senna  arc  under 
the  necessity  of  paying  dearly  lor  peace  or  forfeiting  everything 
by  war ;  for  never  did  landlord  keep  -i  sharper  eye  on  tenants 


276 

than  the-4>  du-ky  ma-ter^  of  the  land  keep  on  the  Portuguese 
r»>loui-ts  who  o>-crt  a  |N.werK-s  claim  to  it.  Regularly  every 
year  thev  vi-it  Shiijuuiga  and  Senna  in  torn-,  prepared  to  receive 
or  take  bv  f>nv  their  extortionate  tribute.  It  should  not,  how- 
ever, U-  utiderM«H"l  that  the  Xulus  are  the  meanest  jx-ople  in  the 
world,  IMM-UI-V  thev  improve  the  opportunity  tbr  securing  some 
return  for  the  aefotniuodatioii  of  re*ideuet'  on  their  shores,  which 
>tran_f|  r-  think  of  value  enough  to  pay  jbr.  Kven  according  to 
tin-  -tricte-t  e.juitv,  it  i-  ^ijue-tionable  whether  tho>e  who,  going 
from  a  Oiri-tian  land,  settle  among  heathen,  with  Mich  objeet.s 
and  principle-  a-  distinguish  the  emi--arie-  of  1'ortugal,  should 
U-  b-tt-r  treated.  There  is,  in  n-alitv,  verv  much  to  admire  in 
the  Xuiu  character.  Thev  belong  to  the  great  Catl're  famiK, 
and  -land  complimented  in  history  with  the  remarkable  record, 
"  Hi-torv  doe-  not  pre-ciit  another  instance  in  which  -o  much 
-•-cnritv  of'  lit'.'  and  proper! v  ha-  IM-CII  enjoye<l  as  ha-  been  ex- 
jM-rieneeil  during  the  whole  period  of  Kngli-h  ixvupation  nf 
Natal  bv  ten  thou-and  culoni-ts  in  the  mid-t  of  one  hundred 
thoii-and  Xulu-."  Thev  are  a  good-humored,  geiicroii-  and  m- 
depeiid'-nt  people.  I'ulikc  inaiiv  African-  who  envy  the  white 
-kin-  of  the  foreigner-,  th'-e  mauls'  individuals  are  jiroud  of 
their  dark  hue. and  it  a-ked,  "  \\'ha!  i-  the  fnie-t  complexion'.'" 
p-p!v  with  readv  eomplaccncv,  "  Like  mv  own,  black,  with  a 
little  red.  I  hev  love  to  number  among  the  ex«vlleiieies  ot 
their  kin_'.  that  "  he  ehoo-e-  to  be  black,"  "  he  might  have  been 
white,  but  would  not.'  1  IP  hair  and  features  of  the  Xulus 
mij-'tit  ia-:lv  confound  them  with  the  ne^ro  tribe-,  but  the  more 
i-iri-lul  \  lew  d'teet-  the  "  loftv  forehead,  the  prominent  no-c 
and  lii'/h  ehe.  k -1  .<.!)'•-,  and  a  certain  dignitv  o|  countenance 
•• '.:  h  '!•  eide  their  claim-  to  -II|M  rio|-  con -ideration.  It  i-  hardlv 
!•;•:.!  t!i:tt  -ue'ii  a  lilea-  thev  Lad.  in  the  mid-t  of  abiin- 
"'  '.•••"I,  which  mav  !»•  had  tor  the  taking  it  —  t'ruit.  'jrain, 
.1:1  !  .MII.'  in  abundance  —hould  cneoiira^i'  a  carele-,-ne--  a.-  to 
':•••  <:it'i!'  .  And  it  we  add  to  tin-  the  eon-ideration  that  under 
'h'  p- •  i. :  »r  <  on-;ru- t  ion  ot  their  go\erninen!  e\-(-rv  man'-  hie 
i-  MI  the  h  md-  o!  :h.  ki'ij.  it  i-  ii"t  a-toni-hiii'j  that  an  audience 
lh<-e  |»-iiple  flioii_'ht  an  addre--  troiu  th-  \\ord-,  "  lake  no 

t'-r      til'       111-!!-"',  ,        i-lltll'elv      -U  I  "Til  Uol]-,    -iljce      t!lc\      had 

on-    -u   h  a  '.li.nj,  n  •:   •  ver  •  \JM-.  t«-d  to."      Thev,  a.-  in- 


A  xn.u  LAWYKU.  279 

(*eed  do  all  the  Cuftre  trilxjs,  manifest  quite  surprising  intelli- 
gence, and  frequently  display  powers  of  Soeratic  argument  which 
would  astonish  some  of  our  knights  of  the  green  bag.  In  illus- 
tration of  this  talent,  on  one  occasion,  "  some  individuals  had 
been  <leteeted  in  eating  an  ox,  and  the  owner  brought  them  U- 
fore  a  eouneil  demanding  payment  for  the  animal.  The  defence 
was  that  they  had  not  killed  the  animal,  but  found  it  dying  of 
a  wound  inflicted  bv  another  animal.  When  the  defence  wa* 
ended,  an  old  gentleman  of  the  prosecution  began  in  true  lawyer 
fashion  to  examine  the  previous  speaker  : 

"  Q.   '  Does  an  ox-tail  grow  up,  or  down,  or  sideways?  ' 

"A.  '  Downward.' 

"  Q.  '  Do  the  horns  of  an  ox  grow  up,  down,  or  sideways  ?  ' 

"A.  <  Upward.' 

"  Q.  '  If  an  ox  gores  another,  does  he  not  lower  his  head  and 
gore  upward  ?' 

"A.  'Yes.' 

"  Q.  '  Could  he  gore  downward  ? 

"A.  'No.' 

"  The  wily  interrogator  then  forced  the  witness  to  examine 
the  wound  which  he  said  was  inflicted  by  an  ox,  and  admit  that 
the  beast  had  been  stabbed  and  not  gored." 

Another  element  of  character  distinguishes  them,  and  one 
which  is,  if  possible,  more  remarkable  among  savages,  who  are 
generally  serious  folks.  They  are  very  fond  of  joking,  and 
quite  practical  in  them  sometimes.  A  resident  mentions  that  a 
lad  in  his  service  once  took  great  pains  to  tell  his  fel  low-country  - 
men  that  the  English  were  bound  by  etiquette  to  kneel  down 
and  kiss  the  ground  at  a  certain  distance  from  the  hou-e.  The 
natives,  born  and  bred  in  a  system  of  etiquette  equal  t<>  that  or 
any  court  in  Europe,  unhesitatingly  obeyed,  while  the  lad  stood 
by  superintending  the  joke  with  great  delight.  It  was  pleasant 
to  observe,  too,  that  when  the  trick  was  at  last  found  out  none 
enjoyed  it  more  than  those  who  had  fallen  into  the  snare. 

In  addition  to  all  their  other  virtues,  they  are  essentiallv 
hospitable,  and  no  one  needs  to  carry  supplies  who  travels  through 
their  country,  except  in  localities  where  they  mav  have  been 
seduced  to  more  selfish  customs  by  intercourse  with  Portuguese 
traders.  Such  a  digression  in  the  interest  of  Zulu  reputation 
17 


2SG  SHt'I'ANOA. 

will  lx>  pardoned,  as  it  i-  of  .piite  :i-  inneh  im|w>rtanox  that  we 
have  ju-t  itnpP-.-ion-  of  the  aetor~  in  any  of  the  aflairs  of  real 
life  in  colonial  region-  a-  it  i-  that  we  have  a  -imple  nt-onl  of 
iivident-. 

A  -iti^'lf,  one— »t<>ri<tl  hon<e  at  Shnjwinjja,  •wvupvinj;  the  preJ- 
ti«-t  sit*-  on  th,-  river,  en-jpi—.i-d  the  attention  of  the  exjxxlition. 
It  i-  a  -tone  hou-e  ;  there  i-  a  -plendid  -loping  lawn  in  front 
'.nth  a  tin'-  inan_r"  oreliard  at  it-  «*otlt hern  end  :  the  la\\ n  rxteii'U 
«lo\\n  to  tin-  water*  e«l^e,  an<l  the  /:iinl>«-.|,  wnlniiiej  ^raml!\. 
tl-iu-  -ofslv  !>\-,  ati'l  tli'Tr  are  little  -jri-en  i-Iaml-  rfjx'-iiiLT  on  it- 
-t::in\ ,  tramjuil  U»-.oni.  li'vou  look  northward,  In-vond  t!i«' 
ii.'ii-',  tli-'P-  art-  —  th'-re  wer<-  tin  11  l'op-t-  of  tropical  tree-,  ami 
j..-voii«l  thf  top-t-  tin-  ma--ive  nioiintaiii-  o('  Mornnihwa,  to\\er- 
iii'^  ainiil-t  \\  liite  elottd-,  ami  liinln-r  -till  di-tant  hill-  art-  dimlv 
di-liiml  a_raiu-t  tin-  hliie  hori/on.  '1  he  -nrvr\  ni'j  exjMilition  o| 
''.iptain  Os\i-n  p-^f.-<l  at  the  "  Shnpan-j^i  lion*","  in  I  S2l>,  and 
!.iir:.'.l  one  of  their  nunil"T  under  a  ndile  i»aol>ah  tp-«-.  Th« 
_rnve  of  an  explorer,  far  a'.vav  in  a  \\ild- riie--^  land,  -u_-_re-i.  ,1 
\ .  rv  -ol.-rnn  thought-  to  the  »,-i-ioii-  ni'-n  and  the  devoted  \\o- 
I.MII  \\lio  -rood  l>v  it.  Tli'-v  inriN'  have  wondered  \\h--ther  it 
\soiild  Iw  -',  l>nt  the\-  did  not  know  that  the  -hado\\  of  that 

!.:io!iah     tl'ee    \\  o||ld      \'et      I  teeollje    a    doll!  ilv    -aep-(l      -]iot      (o     tl|e[M; 

tliev  did  not  kii"'v\  that  of  their  number  thi-re  -hoiild  l>e  left 
eotnpaiiion  dn-t  t'>r  that  whieh  vear-  a^'o  had  Keen  laid  there 
".  ith  -orro\v  and  h-ft  in  lotieline^<. 

Aft'-r  a  t'i  w  dav-.  whieh  uep-  inijiptveil  in  uoo.lm^  up  with 
\  tViea  1 1  •  t.o-iv  and  li^nnin-vit.-e.  the  e\]H-diiio|i  advanced  toward 
'!',;•-.  l-'foni  S!ni]'aii_ra  t"  >•  -nna  the\  -nHereil  '_rP-at  annovanee 
fV'.rn  th"  -•«  niinj  <•- ,n-piraev  of' -and  and  -tnpidity  --and  in  the 
ri-.-T  and  -tnpi-lit  v  in  tin-  Klaek  pil-t.  Thi-  int.  Te-t  in-  indi- 
\Miti!  wa-  iiani--d  .I-hn  S-i— or-,  a  -  rf.  l\\  ery  now  and  then 
}.,.  r:m  »!,,.  ••  M;,  I;,,1,. -ft  "  a.'p-Miid.  The  ineonvi-nietiee  and  delay 
",.r.  r-.'..ried  f.r  in  -onie  mea-iire,  for  a  time,  hy  the  liidi«Toii< 
•;i;,;.:i.  i"  of  hi-  a  : _'r!"  v  d  niann.  r  a-  h--  vntured  the  very  nn 
on. •••'.,-.  i'.'.  a--.-rt;on,  "Oh.  thi-  i-  n-t  the  way  ;  it  i-  l-a^k 
\..<..],  r  '  "  I;  ;•  ,  \,  -i  th, •  . -ha nn  of  f.llv  i-  .-a-ily  e\h:in-t«-<l,  and 
u.  »'.,  !  '•  !(i-d  to  l-'i/h  at  -tnpiditv  \\hi--h  put-  n-  to  nmeh 
tr  ,,,l,\  |,  ,...,.,,-  ;••-.'.-.  i  M.-!V  i'  tinv  e\  pr--«  it -elf.  and  it  i-  ne 
Wo.  i.-  •!..-••'..  i.i'".  t'. 't  th.-if  tin  ir  dull  S-in-or- wa«- :in  nntnit- 


KKTKITION    AT    SKNNA.  2M 

igated  affliction,  to  say  the  least  of  it.  Resides  this  annoyance, 
thev  had  already  found  their  precious  steamer  quite  defective  in 
nianv  respects.  The  furnaces  were  badly  constructed,  and  she 
moved  along  so  slowly  and  heayily  that  the  natives  with  their 
canoes  would  pass  easily  l>v  her,  and  looked  back  in  wonder 
and  pitv  on  the  slow  puffing  "  Asthmatic,"  as  she  came  to  l>c 
'.tilled. 

At  Senna  they  received  a  mo-t  friendly  reception.  They 
were,  however,  under  the  nece<-itvof  landing  at  Xvarnka,  H 
small  hamlet  of  rocks  six  miles  below,  and  walking  up  to  the 
village,  as  the  steamer  could  not  go  up  the  channel  along  which 
Senna  stands.  From  the  hamlet  thev  walked  along  a  narrow 
winding  path  in  Indian  file,  through  a  succession  of  garden?  and 
patches  of  thorny  acacias.  The  clouds  veiled  the  sun  softlv, 
and  the  cool  morning  air  seemed  peculiarly  fitted  for  the  swcei, 
strange  songs  which  the  little  birds  poured  forth  in  their  charm- 
ing foreign  accent.  There  were  many  natives  passing  to  and 
fro — the  women  with  hoes  going  to  their  work,  but  the  men  all 
carried  spears  or  bows  and  arrows,  except  those  who  had  old 
Tower  muskets.  Senna  looked  no  more  inviting  for  the  tw  » 
years  of  wear  and  neglect  and  oppression  and  war — a  dull, 
dilapidated  place,  where  "one  is  sure  to  take  fever  the  second 
day."  But  the  presence  of  a  single  really  generous  and  hospita- 
ble man,  claiming  the  miserable  village  as  his  native  plarr, 
measurably  redeemed  it  in  the  estimation  of  Englishmen  who 
had  been  trained  to  appreciate  those  nobler  qualities  which  so 
seldom  distinguished  the  claimants  of  the  country.  Senhor  II. 
A.  Ferniro's  benevolence  wa^  unbounded.  Xo  stranger,  how- 
ever black,  was  turned  awav  fro  n  \\\<  door  hungry  or  wcarv. 
lie  had  long  been  the  almoner  of  the  people  in  time  of  famine. 
There  \vas  found  a  bit  of  historv  in  connection  with  him  which 
illustrates  the  Lisbon  policy  a<  hardlv  kinder  to  its  own  people 
than  to  those  whom  thev  are  taught  to  oppress.  The  father  of 
Sejihor  Ferraro  had  been  the  Portuguese  Governor  of  Senna. 
and  beini;  a  man  of  superior  attainments  and  untarnished  honor, 
acquired  by  the  most  unquestionable  methods  verv  lanre  po~- 
sessions  in  land  south  of  the  village.  The  "home"  irovorn- 
ment,  asserting  that  it  would  never  do  for  an  individual  to 
possess  more  land  than  the  crown  of  Portugal,  took  po^ses-qr.ri 


2X2  AHHIVAI.    AT    TETK. 

of  his  estate  and  nit  it  up  into  -mall  tract-  ami  apjmrtioned  it 
to  settlers.  The  -on,  tli««n^li  VITV  wealthy,  hold  only  an  insig- 
niti'-ant  portion  of  lii-  rightful  •  --tatc.  This  pentleman,  in 
common  with  other  prominent  Portuguese  irentlemen  of  the 
town,  welcomed  the  ex^-dilion,  an«l  all  of  them  freely  compli- 
rnent'-d  I  >r.  Living-tone  on  hi-  ili-c«i\vrv  of  the  true  mouth  of 
the  iioMe  river  -•>  near  \\hi-h  they  hail  .-pent  their  live*  in 
i^noramv  of  tin- error  which  their  ^oyerntnent  had  ignonintlv  or 
wilfully  mnrralotl. 

From  Senna  the  e\ jMtlitimi  amended  as  far  as  Tete  without 
sfM-cial  incident — their  ohject  li.-in^  to  reach  that  -pot  a-  ^peedilv 
a-  |Mi^-ilil« — and  anchor, -d  their  cratt  in  front,  of  that  frontier 
villa.."-  on  the  vh  of  S-pti'inlx-r.  Th«-  Makol,.!..  \\ ,  re  full  <•( 
jo\-  at  th«-  return  ot'  tln-ir  "lather."  They  hai!i-d  him  with 
f\pre— ion-  of  unlxtiindiil  d< -li-jht.  |-'i\e  of  their  head  men 
C;MI)'-  oil  l«i:ird  the  -teatiier  and  li-lem-d  in  (piiet  -.  .rrow  to  the 
-torv  ot  pour  S-Uvselm'-  death.  "  Men  die  in  anv  coiiiitr\," 
th'-v  -aid.  and  then  told  ho\vthirt\  of  their  (.\\n  unmix  r  had 
•j-oiie  \\ith  the  Uaroiiio  -inee  they  parted  uith  I  >r.  Livin^'tone. 
T\VO  year-  had  clup-wd  -mce  that  |iartin_r.  They  had  \\aiti-d 
patienrlv  and  i-oiifiili-ntlv  for  the  r.  turn  of  their  friend.  They 
had  not  I..1-H  pp-vidi-d  (or  !«\  tin-  | ',  .ft  ii'_rue-e  ^«  lycrniut  tit ,  a- 
hid  IM.-H  proiuio4il  I  >i.  I  ,i\  in_'-'one,  and  their  -utl'eriii'j--  would 

lia\e    |.«e]|    4   ye[|     Hpire    -e\'ere    thai)     they     Wel'i-    lillt     fof    the    jM-f-OIKll 

kindiie—  lit  Major  Sii-ml.  !'•::'  the  \\aitiii'j  wa-  over  now,  and 
th'-y  |,!-,..-.,l  alniiit  their  tried  friend  with  eXpro-imis  of  love 
which  cheered  hi-  heart.  They  .|iiic|Jy  carried  hi-  efoi.d-  to  the 
L'"',  erniu-  .'it  hoii-e.  -M  h-artilv  t-nder-'d  1-v  the  •jciieroii-  c..m- 
mandant,  and  h-j|  him  tor  the  tune  on!v  \\hen  they  wen  -urc 
that  the\  ei.iiM  !»-to\\  no  additional  attention.  There  wa-  a 
u«  a!t  h  "f  '  ru-t  and  a  Me.  1 1.  ,n  in  t  ':.-ir  -i  tuple  •••jn.nl  ni-jht ."  and 
the  ,  -..],.,..;  ..,,  "  \\'e  v.  ill  -1'i-p  t..  ni-ht ."  mor.  than  n  paid  the 
lar,"  h-  .u  !•  d.  -ell'  -a-  rifi-  in-/  fri.-nd  of  the  race  fi.rall  hi-  toil 
and  an  \  ;•  "<  in  c.  imin-j  1  •  i<  \^  to  t  In  m. 

\1:  \':;'.i,  v.  •  i  r  .  and  IP  j'1  '  '•  d.  \\  a-  Inn. 'in-..'  for  r«  po-c. 
It  tii'i-t  hay.  li..n  a  -wii-t  th"iijhi  th:it  lie  wa-  the  ioiie.  r 


C  II  APT  Kit    XVII. 

THK    KKHUABASA     KAIMI»S. 

The  .Journey  t<.  the  KeKralmsa  Keltr:iha«;i  Itanirc — (ieneral  Appearanee — 
llrciiilili-  l're-.sure  <>f  Water— I'ortuijUfStf  Ignorance  -  Hanyai  linjioviitii.ii — 
"  iMvadt'iil  Koiii,'h  "  a  Nielli-Camp  Serins  — A  Camp  Story — The  .Mnrninir — 
(  limliiiiL,'  Still  —  Sleep  of  Kxhiiustion— Makololo  l»Utni>t  — Mount  Morninhwa 
A  IVrpetiiul  Harrier  Return  to  Tctc  Scenes  in  Tete— Superstition— The 
Teaching  of  Nature  -—Holiness — Christmas  in  Africa — The  ('Umax  of  Ah.snn.li- 
tie-  The  lluiny  Season— The  1't.rtuu'Ue.^e  Recourse— A  Serious  Mutter— The 
Help  for  Fever -The  Shire. 

IT  will   bo  remembered   that   in   descending  the  Zambesi,  in 
18o(),  Dr.  Livingstone   turned   southward   in   the  neighborhood 

of  the  hills,  and  only  eaine  to  the  river  attain  at  'Fete.  He  had 
not,  therefore,  seen  the  Kehrahasa  rajiids,  and  such  were  the 
reports  coneernin";  them  that  he  shared  i'nlly  the  curiosity  of 
his  companions,  and  they  resolved  to  take  advantage  of  the 
peculiarly  favorable  opportunity  of  the  Zambesi  being  unusually 
low  to  ascertain  their  character  while  uncovered  by  water.  As 
far  as  Panda-Mo-jua,  about  forty  miles  above  Tete,  thev  sailed 
along  quite  comfortably,  and  looked  with  admiration  on  the 
splendidlv-wooded  hills  which  greeted  the  eve  on  either  bank. 
The  rapids,  which  have  derived  their  natm — which  signifies 
"finish,  or  break  the  service" — from  the  difficulty  experienced 
in  carrying  all  articles  of  trade  around  them,  over  land,  to 
Chicova,  are  in  the  midst  of  the  loftv  Kebrabasa  ra litre,  which 
consists  chieHv  of  conical  hills  covered  with  scratrtrv  tree.". 
"This  ra ntrc  crosses  the  Zambezi  nearly  at  right  angles,  and 
confines  it  within  a  narrow,  rouu'h,  and  rockv  dell  of  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth,  over  which  large  masses  of  rock 
are  huddled  in  indescribable  confusion.  The  chief  rock  is 
syenite,  some  portions  of  which  have  a  beautiful  blue  tin^e  like 
lay"*  fnznfi  diffused  through  them;  others  are  grav.  I'lock-  of 
granite  also  abound,  of'  a  pinkish  tinge:  and  these,  with  ineta- 
morphic  rocks,  contorted,  twisted,  and  tlu'own  into  cverv  i-on- 


-  *  THK    KHUKAHASA. 

tvivable  position,  atlord  a  picture  uf  d:-!<><-atiou  «»r  nneonforma- 
bility  wliich  \\nuld  gladden  a  j^-olu^ieal  lecturer's  heart;  but  at 
lii^h  Mo<« I  thi-  ruu_'h  channel  i-  all  >nuN»iliitl  over,  and  it  then 
conform.-  well  with  the  river  l^-low  it,  which  i-  halt' a  mile  wiile. 
In  the  drv  -ea-.in  the  -tn-am  inn-  at  the  bottom  uf  a  narruw 
and  deep  trpNivr,  \\iu  *<c  -idi-  are  |M>li.-luil  and  fluted  bv  the 
Ixiiling  aetii.n  of  the  water  in  lluud.  like  the  rims  of  ancient 
Mi-tern  well-  bv  the  draw-rojM-.  The  breadth  of  the  groove  is 
ut't.-n  nut  mure  than  frum  furty  t«»  -i\t\  vard-,  and  it  ha-  >ume 
.•harp  turning",  duiible  channel-,  and  little  cataract-  in  it.  The 
rna-t.-  "f  the  '  Ma  Ii"lM-rt,'  though  .-nine  thirtv  feet  hi^h,  did  not 
reach  the  level  ut  the  fli .. *  1  -channel  abuve.  and  the  man  in  tin- 
chain-  -un^r  uiit,  '  .\u  Ijottoin  at  ten  fathoiu-.'  Hn^e  |xit-h<>le>, 
a-  lar^e  a-  draw-wells,  had  been  w  »rn  in  the  -ule-.  ami  were  .-<• 
d.-ep  that  in  -uine  Hi-taint-,  \\lnn  proteetti]  fr<>m  tin-  -nil  bv 
overhanging  buiild«  r-,  the  water  in  tln-m  \\a-  ijiin.  cuul.  S..mr 
ut  the-H-  hole>  had  IM  i  n  \\urn  ri^ht  thruii^li,  and  unlv  tin  -id* 
n--\t  tin-  r>»  k  remained;  while  the  -id.  -  uf  the  ^i»«\  •<•  »\  the 
tl"- "1-chanin-l  we  re  |M.!i-li.-«l  a-  -niuuth  a-  if  tln\  had  ^ujn- 
tliroii^h  •jraiiitc-mill-.  Tin-  prc--ui-.-  uf'  tin-  water  nm-t  lw 
e.'iuniiuii-  tu  jii'Mluci-  tlii-  |Nili.-li.  It  had  wedded  rmind  jM-bble- 
in:-i  diink-  and  crannie-  <M  the  ruck-  -u  firmly  that.  th"iiLrh 

til'A     1'n.kcd    ijlllte    l"'.-i   ,    tin  -V    <"llld    ll"t      be    p  |||u\  ed    i   \ccpt    with 

a  hammer.  It  i-  -traii-e  :hi!  tin-  I 'urtii'_rin-e  had  eoiitimird  >«.» 
l"ir_'  in  cumpanitixi'  i^in.i'anci-  ..}  an  ubject  of  -o  nnieh  intere-t 
w  hich  w  a-  -<•  near  tin  in.  All  the  information  w  hi.-h  «.nr  friends 
obfaiii.-d  iV'.m  the-e  remarkable  '•(»luni-t>  wa-  that  'three  or 
l-.jr  i|.  tai  bed  ru.-k-  ju't'-d  uiit  int'.  tin-  river  at  l\ebraba.-a, 

\\hicli,  thull^li  dali_r'  I'l'M-  t1'  the  ell mber-uine  natl\c  cailues, 
euij!.|  !..•  .  a.-i!\  pa--' d  b\  a  -teann  r  ;  and  that  it  <'iie  uj-  t  \\  u  uf 
t!..-..-  .ib-fnietiu!i-  \\ej-e  bla-tec)  a\sa\  bv  i_Minp<>wdi-r  there  would 
U  i,  .  :  i; ••  I !•  r  dilliciilt \  .'  "  I'.n:  t  he  painful  r\  jilurat  mn  "('  -everal 
in'.  ...:r.  iii'-d  the  parts  that  thev  mn-t  pi-paie  (i.r  mure 
•  M-  •'.••:  1.  :  !i  an  t  ii-  \  had  ant  nip;itiil  ;  f  hat ,  in  fact,  the  nn-re 

•  \ am  •>  i' .  -'I    "t    tli-     rapid-   wa-    a    inuiv    cuii-nleralile    ta-k   than 
th--;r     I-  lii-'.a!      hid     be.  ii     -u;,p..-.d     t"     be.        Th-  v     t  heref,  ,re     \'f- 

tiirn-d  !u  th.  !H,.I!  and  \Si-n!  d..-.\n  the  river  f'-r  iVe-h  -nppln-. 
\\';,.:,  t!..  ;.  e,-t  ;n,.  h-.ra  -e..|,d  time  at  I  lie  f.«  >t  uf  t  he  hill-, 
t:.'  !  I  •!'  a  -en.'ii-  -ur\e\  <•('  the  j-, -i^n.  It  \-,  LU 


BAXYAI    IMPOSITION.'*.  2Q."> 

late  in  the  afternoon  of  Xoveiulx:r  24th.  They  were  indepen- 
dent of  the  surly  tribes  who,  ut  even  so  short  a  distune*-,  liv«-,l 
along  the  bunks  and  manifested  an  impudent  contempt  lor  the 
Portuguese  antlioritv.  Canoe  men  never  sleep  in  their  canoes 

• 

at  niirht,  but  build  their  fires  on  the  shore,  and  the  suspicion-, 
of  the-e  dwellers  were  excited  by  the  uncommon  action  of  the 
neweomers,  and  they  hailed  them  with,  "  Why  don't  you  come 
on  shore  like  other  people?"  The  Mukololo,  who  full  as 
independent  as  their  interrogators,  replied,  "  \Ve  are  held 
to  the  bottom  with  iron;  you  may  see  we  are  not  like  your 
Bo/unga." 

It  was  no  misfortune  to  be  denied  the  company  of  the>e 
Banyai.  On  their  account  as  much  as  anything  else  Dr.  Liv- 
ingstone had  felt  it  imj)ortant  to  avoid  the  river,  as  he  was 
approaching  Tete,  in  his  former  expedition.  Their  imposition.-, 
on  travellers  are  frequently  rather  severe  tests  of  even  Christian 
patience,  and  our  travellers  were  glad  to  avoid  them.  It  is 
pleasant  to  give  a  present,  but  that  pleasure  the  Banyai  usually 
deny  to  strangers  by  making  it  a  fine,  and  demanding  it  in 
such  a  supercilious  wav  that  only  a  sorely-cowed  trader  could 
bear  it.  They  often  refuse  to  touch  what  is  offered — throw 
it  down  and  leave  it — sneer  at  the  trader's  slaves,  and  refuse 
a  passage  until  the  tribute  is  raised  to  the  utmost  extent  of  his 
means. 

The  morning  came,  clear  and  pleasant,  and  the  partv  enjoyed 
for  a  time  quite  a  delightful  shade  from  the  hills  on  their 
right;  "but  before  long  the  path  grew  frightfully  rough,  and 
the  hills  no  longer  shielded  them  from  the  blaxing  sun."  The 
assurances  of  the  guide  that  thev  were  in  ''  the  way  "  seemed 
like  mockery  ;  the  thought  of  a  path  in  connection  with  the 
patches  of  yielding  sand  and  the  luiuy  rocks  over  which  they 
were  clambering  so  painfully  was  ridiculous;  the  rocks  are  dis- 
located and  twisted  in  everv  direction  ;  it  was  "confusion  worse 
confounded  ;  "  it  may  have  seemed  to  them  confounded  confusion. 
The  first  dav's  march  did  not  exceed  four  miles  !  and  all  hands 
were  thoroughly  satisfied  with  themselves,  and  willing  to  >top 
when  the  hour  to  halt  arrived. 

A  few  inhabitants,  belonging  to  a  small  tribe  called  Badema, 
had  found  homes  in  this  singularly  inhospitable  region,  and 


-  NK.HT    IN    Till:    HII.1>. 

tlu  ir  indu.-try  had  converted  the  few  available  hollows  into 
miniature  corn  ami  cotton  field.-,  ami  they  have  the  art  of  grow- 
ing their  "  mapi-u  iholcu-  .-orguni1  "  on  tin-  steep  slopes  of  the 
m->un!ain-.  The  deep  ravim-s  are  brought  into  service  a>  tnij»s 
for  /elint-,  antelojx-,  and  other  animal-,  l»y  stretching  -trong 
nets  ma'le  of  Uiolmb  liark  a<To->  their  narrow  entrance.-.  Hcing 
onlv  the  reiunatit  of  a  triU-,  thev  are  great  Iv  oppressed  hv  their 
stronger  nci^lilior-,  ami  the-e  indu-trious  jw-ople  need  to  call  in 
Ktmte-jv  t"  aid  tli-  in  in  keeping  what  thev  have,  and  thev  have 
fall-  n  upon  tli'-  plan  of  converting  the  m<>-t  hidden  eavitie>  of' 
th«-  r-H  k-  into  -t"ii'-  hoii-e- ;  and  having  thn-  eltideil  the  rapac- 
it\-  ••{'  their  hum, in  i*-*  thev  enntide  in  the  hitter  !>:irk  in  which 
tip  v  wrap  their  in-a-iin-^  to  protect  them  against  the  fastidious 
ruiei- and  nionk.-v-.  \v  ho  would  hut  \'«r  thi-  protcctiiin  liitten  on 
their  eMivinit v.  \\lp-n  th--  traveller-  cnteivd  tln-ir  domains 
th'-v  had  no  h'-itati"ii  in  -:i\  in_r  \<  i'v  p.i-iti\t-l\  that  tin  \  had 
no-.hin-j.  and  tin-  --.iniv  >tore  to  lie  t*»nn<l  in  their  home-  -eenu-d 
t<)  iiintinu  thi-ir  -tat«-im-nt.  Tin-re  \\a-  m>  ohjci-tion  made  to 
tln-ir  -l'-«-j>inur  under  the  tree-,  and  neither  men  m.r  hea-t.-  di>- 
turln  d  tip-  <jiii'-t  "f  tip  i!'  •lumlx-rs,  though  thep-  \\.-re  a-  villan- 
•ii-  U-n-t-  alniiit  them  a-  there  are  anvwhere.  .In-t  a<T"--  the 
n\'er  frmn  them,  a  leopard  holdlv  a--aile»l  a  cmnpanv  ol  natives 
-irtin_r  t"_r'  tli-  r  in  the  e\.-ninur  and  killed  one  nf  their  numlH-r. 
Sn.  !i  an  i H-(  urreii'-'-  in  one-  imineiliatc  ipi^hl>"rlio. .d  iiiiiiil  hul 
-u/-.-t  -erinii-  th"ii_'ht-,  and  natnraliv  -'•a-niied  their  (iinver- 
-ati"ii  np  ire  «»r  |e»  with  the  "  leopard.'  '1  he\-  knew  verv  \\ell 
that  ttii^  eriiel  and  euiiniir_r  em-inv  might  he  <|inte  jp-ar  them  ; 
rind  l!i'>ii_'h  t!i>-v  were  ipij  timid  np-n.  th"-e  u(  them  at  lea-t  who 
\\.-re  niHi-ed  tn  AtVi'-an  e\p.-rieii'-.-  ~li.iiil<|  ipit  a'e.uiut  thein- 
-i.mdered  it'  u-i-  impnive  tin-  op|iortunity  to  •jne--.  that 

t!i-\     'A  •  •!'•      a-    dee|il\-    ill!-'fe-te<|     in     f.-.ltH/i     \  i .    I  '<    a  -  '  •'  Tt  a  1 1 1    Telltnllic 

tra\ -ll-r-   \\lp-n  hall  drowned  l>v  an    Alriean   ram  -t"rm  \\i-re  in 
<>•  i\.    1  !,    I'i.      \\'hil«-  the   a--aiilt-  ol'  wild    animal-  <in  the 

IK-  n  ili-  m-'-Ivi--.  m  '.\!i"in  \\  e  are  ni-ire  mtere~t.d.  -ei-m  to  jjive 
n-  ad'. I-:.!  \ii.-li  \\  •  at'--  a-lianpd  to  confi-— ,  a-  i-  |i!n\<n  I'V 
•-.,.{  .n-.-r.  -f  in  a  IP  n>  w  ho  i-  m>t  half  killed  IPC,\  and  t  lien. 
if  "•i/nr  t--  !  ••  •  nil-  <!•  !•  •!  a!ni'i-t  a-  '  'hn-tian  t"  I"1  ind  re-ted 
••i  !  IP  •••  :iiiia'-  •  f  1  !M  -  |er, M  i.,ii-  di-|.n!ant-  of"  li.|-i--t  i  i.-ht-  \\  ith 

•  a- h    •.•!,•!-.       \\  -    d-  IP-!   ip-'d    !'•   earrv  th«-  r- ad«  r    far  from    th«- 


A    CAMI'-FIRK    STOUY.  2SO 

very  spot  where  the  weary  explorers  are  sleeping  to  introduce 
him  to  tin1  leopard  in  the  lull  indulgence  of  his  most  belligerent 
ferocity.  The  narrators  of  the  story  were  making  painful  progress 
along  what  they  facetiously  tried  to  call  a  road,  in  the  midst  of 
the  most  luxurious  vegetation,  when  they  wen-  startled  l>v  a 
most  extniordinarv  noise  proceeding  from  a  little  glade  on  their 
right.  The  singular  sound  resembled  the  confused  grunting  of 
a  pig,  and  the  suppressed  growling  of  a  tiger,  and  tin-  worrying 
noise  of  a  dog,  interrupted  with  loud  squeak  ings,  snarling*  and 
sudden  roars;  besides  which  they  could  hear  a  tearing  and 
struggling,  a  rustling  of  the  grass  and  a  crackling  of  the  twigs, 
as  though  some  large  animals  were  rolling  and  tumbling  about 
in  a  violent  manner.  (Jims  in  hand,  the  excited  party  crept 
stealthily  along  the  little  glade,  until  at  its  termination,  amidst 
an  almost  impenetrable  walling  in  and  arching  over  of  umbrag- 
eous vegetation,  thev  saw  two  lar^e  animals  struggling  and 
plunging,  and  tearing  each  other,  and  rolling  over  and  over, 
locked  together  in  deadly  combat.  The  approach  of  the  strangers 
was  unnoticed  bv  the  enraged  combatants,  which  seemed  obliv- 
ious of  all  else  in  their  tierce  conflict.  One  of'  these  furious 
animals  was  soon  discovered  to  be  a  large  leopard  ;  all  that  thev 
could  fix  distinctly  of  the  other  was  a  lout;  horn-shaped  head, 
tremendous  claws,  a  huge  bushv  tail  and  a  coat  of'  shag^v  fur. 
The  fury  of  the  contest  was  dreadful,  and  thev  stood  riveted 
in  wonder;  before  long,  however,  it  was  apparent  that  whatever 
his  antagonist  was  the  leopard  must  prove  victorious ;  ami  as 
his  huge  fangs  presently  became  firmly  fixed  in  the  other's  throat 
he  succeeded  in  pinioning  him  last  to  the  ground.  Thev  saw 
that  this  strange  combat  had  been  between  a  leopard  and  a 
powerful  ant-bear  ;  and  even  while  the  witnesses  levelled  their 
rifles  in  cautious  consideration  of  t  hem-el  vc-,  thev  were  con- 
strained to  admire  the  splendid  di^nitv  with  which  the  brute 
arose  above  his  vanquished  toe  and  looked  about  him,  and  thev 
almost  grieved  to  mingle  with  the  triumphant  roar  which  re- 
sounded through  the  forests  the  harsher  and  deadlier  voices  of 
their  trusty  rifles. 

Hut  not  only  were  stories  of  ferocious  beasts  incorporated  with 
star-gazing,  geographical  discus-ions,  and  geological  examina- 
tions into  the  camp-fire  life  of'  the  partv  in  which  -uch  varied 


I.*'  THK    MoKMMi. 

characters  were  associated :  then-  were  -trange  storks  of  strange 
jteoplc:  of  a  strange  raev  of  men  onlv  three  feet  high,  whom  the 
native  narrator  "  /in<l  *•  •  n  "  in  the  interior  of  tlir  continent  ; 
people  with  horn-  ^rouin^  out  of  their  head*,  ami  dwelling  in  a 
until  town  where  there  wa-  plenty  ol' t'ood  ;  .-lories  -toutlv  main- 
tained a^ain-t  tin-  .-4-0  rn  "1  'tin-  Makolo'o.  \\  ho  counted  their  own 
manly  pro|*trtioii-  proof  e-ondu-ivc  that  the  interior  pit  M  I  ueetl 
l»etter  ni«  n  than  dwarf-,  lint  all  pla«-e-  and  times  are  prolific 
of  men  who  are  either  endowe*!  with  a  singular  laeilitv  of  ini- 
jH-r-ouatiou  or  >tronglv  impressed  with  a  supjHi>itl  identity  with 
the  in  r«M-^  ol'  tho-4-  tal>u.oti-  -tone-  whieh  have  l»e^nile«l  the 
lei-mv  ot'  men  | 'or  a_pe-  :  and  it  mav  l>e  HippoM-d  an  lioue-t  mi-- 
take or  an  inn-H-. m  vanitv  in  the  poor  -lave  ol'  a  Portuguese 
Uj;L-ler  to  eontouild  him-elf  with  the  hero  uf  adventures  oliler 
in  the  tradition-  of  .\!ri«-a  than  the  time  of  Ilefo.lotu-. 

The  nionniii_r  invanalilv  liroiight  realitie-  \vhieh  eha-e<l  a\\av 
tin-  plea-anle-t  dream-,  and  e.  .nvinced  them  it  ii"t  "1  the  truth 
certainly  of  iiie  p«i— ii«iiu\'  ••!  iln-  -tranne^t  advcntun**.  At  one 
time  tin-  \\holi-  partv  \\.-r-  fording  a  trilmtary  «\'  the  /amlie-i, 
holding  their  gun-  and  l»agi:ag«-  alMtvi-  l  heir  In -ad-  and  thoroughly 
*oakeil  [..  their  arm-pit-,  dotiliting  whether  thev  eoiild  pnnlurc 
a  -at  i-faetorv  argument  a-_rain~!  th«-  import  unit  ie-  o|  a  hungrv 
i-px-o'lile.  -hoiild  "ii''  |ir"p"-«-  to  <line  on  \\hile  man.  |ii-i  oiiee. 
Anoth'-r  lime  th«-v  were  ehmluiig  an  almo-t  -eorehniL;  r<»  Iv  under 
t  he  iinri  !•  in  in_r  -un  rav-,  or  watching  one  ol  their  nil  in  I  MT  era  wl- 
itrj  al"ii_'  I  he  jl<i--\  hlaek  roek-  toward  a  -leepin-j  hippi»J»otamus. 
At  l'h_"!i  ih«\  reaehi-d  th--  f  »>t  of  ( 'hijM-rc/iwa,  w  ho-e  p<  rpen- 
dieular  roeivv  -id<-~,  eloihed  with  mam  -e.  <}•  >\;-,\  lieln  n-,  their 
1  '•  -i •; u_'M'  -••  i-oinpaiiioii-  a.— ured  th'-m  marked  the  la-t  ol»-truc- 
ti'.ii--  I.,  navigation.  Uni  the\  had  hanlh  eonniieuei-*!  their 
lia'-k'A.nd  joiirui-v,  thinking  over  what  tli<\  had  -ei-n  and  more 
ii,,  j.  !•.--.•!  \\  it  h  the  ditlieulty  than  dignity  of  |\  .  I  <ral>a-a.  \\  hen 
two  nitivi-,  \-.  h'i  inline  to  their  eainp  at  n;j!i'.  a--ni--d  them 
t  ha:  th«  !'•  '.\  a-  -!  ill  in  lV'  -nt  <>f  t  h-  m  a  <  -ataraet  .-a!!.  .1  Monillihwa. 
1  M  .  I  .;'.i!).--t.  .n'-  and  Kirk  immediately  d'-eided  (•>  take  with 
th'-m  thr--  "f  th-'  Ma!."!"l"  and  -j"  I'-rwaid  until  tln\  -titled 
th'  '('I-  -tion  |.  ,i  t!,.  lu-i  !ve-,  and  they  wep-e\  »-r  alterwanl  w  illing 
t. .  i  ••  .fit-  —  th  i!  i:  \\  .1-  a-  !•  .ii.'h  a  I -it  "I  t  ra\  •  1  a-  t  h-  v  ever  had 
in  Alri-'a.  Alt-  !  ri'in-  pa;n!nl  marehllig  th-  liad-  ma  guide^  re- 


SLEEP    OF    EXHAUSTION.  291 

fusod  to  go  further;  "  the  Banyai,"  they  said,  "  would  be  angry 
it  thev  showed  white  inm  the  country  ;  :m<l  then-  \va^  besides 
no  practicable  approach  to  the  spot,  neither  elephant,  nor  hippo- 
potainus,  nor  even  a  crocodile  couhl  reach  the  cataract."  The 
slopes  of  the  mountains  on  each  side  of  the  river,  no\v  not  three 
hundred  yards  wide,  and  without  the  llattish  flood-channel  and 
groove,  were  more  than  three  thousand  feet  from  the  sky-line 
down,  and  were  covered  either  with  dense  thornbu.-h  or  huge 
black  boulders;  this  deep  trough-like  shape  caused  the  sun's  rays 
to  converge  as  into  a  focus,  making  the  surface  so  hot  that  the 
soles  of  the  feet  of  the  Makololo  became  blistered.  Around, 
and  up  and  down,  the  party  clambered  among  these  heated 
blocks,  at  a  pace  not  exceeding  a  mile  an  hour;  the  strain  upon 
the  muscles  in  jumping  from  crag  to  boulder,  and  wriggling 
round  projections,  took  an  enormous  deal  out  of  them,  and  they 
wore  often  glad  to  cower  in  the  shadow  formed  by  one  rock 
overhanging  and  resting  on  another  ;  the  shelter  induced  the 
peculiarly  strong  and  overpowering  inclination  to  sleep  which 
too  much  sun  sometimes  causes.  This  sleep  is  curative  of  what 
mav  be  incipient  sunstroke  ;  iu  its  first  gentle  touches  it  caused 
the  dream  to  ilit  over  the  boiling  brain  that  thcv  had  become 
lunatics  and  had  been  sworn  in  as  members  of  the  Alpine  Club; 
and  then  it  became  so  heavy  that  it  made  them  feel  as  if  a  por- 
tion of  existence  had  been  cut  out  from  their  lives.  The  sun 
is  excessively  hot,  and  feels  sharp  in  Africa;  but,  probablv  from 
the  greater  dryness  of  the  atmosphere,  we  never  heard  of  a  single 
case  of  sunstroke,  so  common  in  India.  The  Makololo  told 
Dr.  Livingstone  they  "alwav-  thought  he  had  a  heart,  but  now 
they  believed  he  had  none,"  and  tried  to  persuade  Dr.  Kirk  to 
return,  on  the  ground  that  it  must  be  evident  that,  in  attempt- 
ing to  go  where  no  living  foot  could  tread,  his  leader  had  u'iven 
unmistakable  signs  of  having  gone  mad.  All  their  eflorts  of 
persuasion,  however,  were  lost  upon  Dr.  Kirk,  as  he  had  not 
yet  learned  their  language,  and  hi-  leader  knowing  his  com- 
panion to  be  equally  anxious  with  himself  to  solve  the  problem 
ot  the  navigableness  of  Kebraba>a,  was  not  at  pains  to  enlighten 
him.  At  one  part  a  bare  mountain  spur  barred  the  way,  and 
had  to  be  surmounted  by  a  perilous  and  circuitous  route,  along 
which  the  crags  were  so  hot  that  it  was  scarcely  possible  for  the 


2l»'2  M«»fXT    MoKl'MHWA. 

hand    t»   Imlil    on    long  enough  t<>  tMisurr  safety  in  the  passage; 

nn<l  l»:i«l  tin-  fop  iii">t  i-l'  tin-  partv  lo-t  hi*  hold  lit-  would  hav.- 
hurl"!  all  U-hiinl  him  into  tin  ri\  •  r  at  tin-  foot  of  the  promop- 
torv  ;  v.-t  in  thi-  wild  hot  n-_':.>ii.a-  tlnv  iltxvml«-tl  airain  t<>  the 
rivi-r,  ill-  v  nil  t  a  ti-hcrman  i-i-tin_r  hi-  hand-m-i  into  tin-  Ixulii:^ 
iiltln -,  ami  In-  {HiinUtl  out  tin-  i-atara<-t  of  Moriimliu  a  ;  within 
an  h"iir  tin  v  w.-iv  Irving  to  i:n-a-uiv  it  from  :iu  overliiingiiig 
r.*-h,  at  a  In  ijht  of  aU'tit  <>ni-  hundred  f-et.  When  V.PII  ,-tand 
fa'-in^  tin-  eataraet,  on  tin-  north  liank.  vmi  -i  c  that  it  i-  -itnatitl 
in  a  -iii  MI  11  Ix'iul  <if  tlu1  riv«-r.  u  iii--h  i-  flow  in  ^  in  a  >hort  nirvc; 
tin-  rivi-r  almvi-  it  i*  jainine*!  Iwtwi-cii  two  niomitain-  in  a  chaniicl 
\\ith  jM-rjM-inliculur  >iil«--,  ami  I----  than  lit't\  \ar«U  \viil-;  one  or 
t\v.>  ma  —  --  of  ri'<-k  jut  out.  ami  tln-ii  tln-iv  i-  a  -l"|'iii'_r  fall  of 
|x-rli:i|i-  tv.i-ntv  li-«-t  in  a  fli-tanii- of  thirtv  var«l-.  h  \\oiiid  -top 
all  navigation.  c\<-i-jit  durinir  tin-  hi^hi-.-t  tl'i.>.l-;  th<-  rocks 
-h'>\\.-.|  th;it  tin-  water  then  ri-<--  ii|>wanl-  of  «-i^htv  fi-.  i  |>.  rj«-n- 
«li.-ularly. 

Still  L.I  |>iiiLr  tin-  jio-itioii  t-ii-iiiir  tin-  i-atarart.  "ii  it-  rijht  -idi- 
ri-  M"Unt  Moruiiilnva,  Irmn  tu<>  thi'ii.-anil  l"  thni-  thi-ii-anil 
!'••'  t  hi-h.  '.\ 'hii-h  L'ivr-  th«-  naim-  to  the  -JM.I.  (  )n  tin-  !•  ft  of  iln- 
i-:i':ir:i'  ;  -taml-  a  lint  iifzililr  mountain  which  inav  1  »•  <  a!  \<  <\  •  'im  'ii- 
-h:iji  'i.  !•'!•  it  i-  jiarllv  i-oni'ul,  and  a  larp'  <-nni-a\i-  llaki  ha- 
1 1'  •  !•  d  nil',  a-  Lrranitr  often  <liH-,  and  1-  ft  a  hroad.  -niooth.  i-on\«-.\ 
la<-.-  a-  ;f  ir  \\i-n-  an  <  nonii"ii-  litill*.  1  In  -<•  t  \\  o  iiii«un'aiii-  i-x- 
t-'iid  th--:r  lia-i--  n-.|-t  h\\  ard-  alu.ut  half  a  mile,  and  tin  ri\,  r  in 
that  di-'aii--.-.  -till  vi-rv  nari'"U.  i-  -ni'Miih.  \\ith  a  t<  \\  ih-lat  hr«l 
r-»-k-  -tandin^'  out  I'P.IH  it-  1-d.  Th.-y  .-liiiil-id  a-  liijh  i:j.  the 
I-.;---  nf  M-iiinf  Muruniliua.  \\h'<h  (.  .iichr-  t  In-  ratarai  I .  a-  t  In  y 
r.  .juir.-d.  Tin-  P..-!.-  \\I-P-  all  \\atir-\\oni  and  -niooih.  \\iih 
(,II_N  j,,.'  hoi,-,  rvi-n  at  on.-  huiidr.d  f'n-t  al-'V.-  !«.w  \\at-r. 
\\  ',,  .,.  :.t  i  lat.  r  |«  riinl,  th.  v  i-limlN  d  up  ih.  imrthw.  -!«  rn  1-a-i- 
of  ||,'.  -,-  ,.  iiM.iintaiii.  tin-  familiar  fa.',-  ..f  !h«-  •  'iii.-n  -hap.  d  I.IH- 
,,,,,,.,.:-.  •  -  ;,•  ,,-,,-,.  r.'.-o_Mii/.-d  :  nin-  |"'int  of  vi«  \\  "M  th.  Iain- 
,,)'  \1  ,.i-  '  ^^1rM!ll^^^a  wa-  m«t  Mion-  than  -  \  •  n  "I'  '  i^'hl  him. In  d 
yard-  d'-'  ••  '  tV..i.i  fhi-  otln-r.  and  th.-v  ih<-n  .-oniph-l.-d  ih.  -IIIA.  \ 
of  l\.  !•!•  '!.  -.-  i  iV'.in  .  nd  ••>  i-nd. 

'I  !,,  -v  ,JM  i,"t  a",  f.ij.t  f"  !'<  turn  l>v  th.-  u  ay  tin  \  raiii-  ,  nill 
•.--:,',,!  t!,.  -!•.;-  ..f  !!,.  tM'.untaili  • -n  tin  n..rth.  It  t«».lv  th.  in 
th:---.  hour-'  hard  !:i!c.r  in  •  uttinj-  th.-ir  \\  ay  up  thr.>u_di  tin- 


A    PKKPKTr.U,    HA  UK  IKK. 

dense  tlinrnbush  which  covered  the  ascent.  The  fae«  of  the  -lope 
was  ofh'ii  about  an  anijle  of  seventy  degrees,  vet  tlieir  guide, 
Shokumhcnla,  whose  hard,  hornv  ^oles,  resembling  tho-c  of 
elephants,  showed  that  he  was  accustomed  to  this  roii^li  and  hot 
work,  carried  a  |x>t  of  water  lor  them  nearly  all  the  wav  up. 
They  slept  that  night  at  a  well  in  a  tnfaceous  rock  on  I  In1  north- 
west of  ( 'hipere/.iwa,  and  never  was  sleep  more  sweet. 

From  what  they  had  seen  and  felt  they  were  ><iti-!icd  that 
Kchrnhasu  must  always  form  a  harrier  to  navigation  at  the 
ordinary  low  water  of  the  river;  hut  the  rise  of  the  water  in  this 
gorge  being  as  much  as  eighty  feet  perpendicularly,  it  wa-  con- 
sidered probable  that  a  steamer  might  be  taken  up  at  high  Hood, 
when  all  the  rapids  are  smoothed  over,  to  run  on  the  upper 
Zambesi.  The  most  formidable  cataract  in  it,  Morumbwa,  hav- 
ing only  about  twenty  feet  of  fall,  in  a  distance  of  thirty  vards., 
it  was  reasonable  to  suppose  that  it  must  entirely  disappear 
when  the  water  stands  eighty  feet  higher.  They  found  current 
stories  which  confirmed  their  impressions  of  the  impossibility  of 
navigation  in  low  water  and  encouraging  their  hope  of  a.-cend- 
ing  safely  in  flood  time.  One  story  goes  that  once  on  a  time  a 
Portuguese  named  .lose  IVdra — hv  the  natives  called  Xvama- 
timbira — chief,  or  capitao  mor,  of  Zumbo,  a  man  of  large  enter- 
prise and  small  humanity — being  anxious  to  ascertain  if  Kebra- 
basa  could  be  navigated,  made  two  slaves  fast  to  a  canoe,  and 
launched  it  from  Chieova  into  Kebrabasa,  in  order  to  sec-  if'  it 
would  come  out  at  the  other  end.  A-  neither  slaves  nor  canoe 
<»ver  appeared  again,  his  excellency  concluded  that  Kebrabasa 
was  (innavigable.  There  is  another  of'  a  trader  who  had  a 
large  canoe  swept  away  bv  a  sudden  rise  of  the  river,  and  it  was 
found  without  damage  below.  But  the  most  sat  i.- factory  in- 
formation was  that  of  a  trustworthy  old  man.  who  asserted  that 
in  flood  all  Kebrabasa  became  quite  smooth,  and  he  had  often 
seen  it  so. 

Having  satisfied  themselves,  as  far  as  possible  at  the  time, 
concerning  the  famous  rapid-;,  the  partv  returned  to  Tete,  and, 
in  accordance  with  the  requirements  of  their  commission,  ^ave 
themselves  up  to  various  examinations  into  the  agricultural  and 
mineral  resources  of'  the  country,  and  such  observations  of  the 
customs  of  the  people,  and  climate,  etc.,  as  they  had  opportunity. 


•_".'!  STKNKS    IN    TKTE. 

The  impressions  \\hii-h   I>r.   Livingstone  had    received  during 

hi-  fanner  ex|x-ditii»M.  :u-  t«>  the  p..li<-y  of  the  Portuguese  ami 
their  ire.'ieral  iiitlm-iiiv  mi  tin-  nativo,  were  n<>t  materially 
altered.  The  religion-  idea-  nf  thr>«-  noininul  representatives  of 
a  ('hri-tian  <  i\  ili/ati'M)  wnv  un<|iicstional>ly  anything  but  help- 
ful t->  a  p^.ple  aln-ailv  Kidlv  pven  t<>  >U|»erstition.  Neither 
I  >r.  I  Jviir^-t'iiH1  ii'ir  anv  ut'ln>  itsw^'iaUrs  wen-  inrliiutl  to  ri'ir.in! 
with  «li«rt-|M-.-t  tin-  rit»-  <T  (tTciiiouic-  ol'  anv  cnttl,  hut  th«-v 
\\iTc  oni-tniiiH <1  t«>  oiixlcinn  ino-^t  uixjualitiitlly  the  c'lirourag*'- 
ni'-nt  "f  iiativ«-  iLTii'Taii'-f  ami  sujnT-titinn,  whirli  thry  couKl  not 
hf!j>  uli-.-i-viiii:  in  even  the  \vi>r>hi|i  <'f  th<>-c  \\lu>  ought  tit  liavt 
fi-li  tin -ir  ifsjMUi-ihilitv  in  ^unc  ili-jrci'  f<T  the  inti'llectuul  and 
niDntl  <-<iii,|iti«(ii  tit'  ih«-  ili-^nnlr.l  rn-atun-^  aiimn^  whom  they 
W.TC  tii'  ri-''<»_r:ii/' <l  rrprcH'iitntives  <>f  civilization.  A- an  illu^- 
tniti'in  of  th"  'ipl,-r  i if  thiiiLr-  whii-h  prcvaihxl,  it  i^  inrntioiutl, 
that,  (hiring  tin'  pn-vali-mv  <if  a '' drought,  in  l^'t^.a  m  i^hltor- 
iiiL'  fhi'-i  L"-t  up  a  p'-rtonnaiif*1,  \\ith  tlivt-rs  crn'mitnio  am! 
iii'-intari"!i-.  t->  lirin^  rain,  l>nt  it  wmild  ii"t  oinif.  The 
(«'»an<-«-  pad n- <>f  T<-t<-,  !•>  -:iti~tV  hi-  coinpatriot-,  appoint'  d  a 
pr-M-.--.-i..j|  ami  prayer-  in  li<>n<>r  <.!'  Saint  Ant-min  f-r  the  -ainc 
purp"--.  Tin-  tir-t  atti-nipt  did  m»t  aii-wn-.  !>ut  «>n  tin-  -(•<•« uid 
IMI-I-I..H.  arnm^«il  t«>  i-«'inc  »\]'  after  the  neu  iim-.n  ap|M-ar»tl.  a 
ifnmd  ppM'.---.|.iii  in  the  -aint'-  In. nor  ended  in  -»  niueh  rain 
that  tin-  ri» .('  n|  tin-  K' -idi  iieia  <javc  \\a\  ;  Saint  A  iiti-ni"'- 

itlia/e    ua-    deenrateil      the     flillowin^    Ue.k     \\  i  t  ||    a    'jnldell     eiifi'IKtl 

u-u'tli  L'L'J,  I'.r  -ending  the  lun^-«lelavitl  and  min-h-in-eded  rain. 
S-.  -p-at  wa-  tin-  irp  \  ei-eii.-e  nianife-t.ll  ..n  thi-  .»-,-a-i(.n  —  the 
kii'-eliirj-  \vnr-hip]M-r-  laujhiipj  and  i.«kin^  hetueen  the  p--|».  .n-e-, 
n. .t  even  .-.a-iiij-  tlnir  'jrin-  \\li.-n  nt'eriiiLT.  '  (  )ra  pp>  n. . !•!-'- 
tliat  they  i".ii!d  ii"t  help  1..-I i«.\  i nLr  that  if.  like  the  native*,  they 
had  taith  in  rain  making,  they  had  t'aith  in  in't  hiir_'  .I-,-."  hi- 
d-ed,  th-\  '.'!•••  e,.n\-in,-,.,l  thai.  in-t.  ;sd  ..f  -.  a(t,  rj,,_r  thedark- 
\  J'.iind  h"\  .•riii'j'  nvi-r  the  mind  ..f  [he  Afri'-an, 
t!i'  nitr.e  1 '. ,:  tn  M|(..,.  l,;i,|  ihein-elvi-  heennie  the  vi'-tiin-  i.f 
th*'  dart. u---.  and  \\ep-  hardlv  ],--  the  -lavi--  •.('  idle  faneie< 
than  tin  ir  -aMe  «n!.j.et-.  Mvi-n  in  the  m.i-f  mat  ter  .  ,!-t;u-| 
a'!:i,r-  -it' !;!'••  th'-y  \\  -  f.  .!  ra_'-inL'  t  In-  d> 'jradin  j  ehain-  '•fv|)p,.r. 
-titi«.n.  Tin  \  '.!i!d  n-.t  plant  <•..}]'•-.•  he.-m^.  th.  v  l>eli,-v.d 
fhat  h  :M  inver  he  happy  aft«T\\ard.  And  I  >r. 


THK   TKACMIMi    OK    NATl'RK.  2!).) 

Livingstone  was  informal  that  shortly  after  his  departure  for 
Kel>ral>a>a,  a  little  rise  having  occurred  in  the  river.,  and  tin- 
waters  becoming  tlirbi'l,  a  native  Portuguese  gentleman  came 
to  the  eonunander,  ami  with  a  grave  eoiintenanee  expressed  hi- 
1'ear  that  "that  Englishman  was  doing  something  t<>  the  river.' 
And  while  he  was  at  Tete  a  captain  of  infantry  was  sent  a  pri~- 
ouer  to  Mo/ain!)i«jue  for  administering  the  innave,  or  ordeal, 
and  lor  putting  suspected  persons  to  death  on  that  evidence 
alone.  It  was  hardly  surprising  that  under  such  influences  the 
natives  \vlio  were  in  contact  with  white  people  seemed,  as  indeed 
they  were,  more  ignorant  and  degraded  than  those  on  whom  no 
ray  from  the  eivili/ed  world  had  ever  fallen.  The  ama/ing 
fertility  of  the  minds  of  these  douhlv  unfortunate  beings  in  super- 
stitions was  not  onlv  an  occasion  of  sorrowful  reflections  and 
anxious  thought,  and  not  onlv  an  almost  insurmountable  barrier 
in  the  wav  of  their  conversion  ;  it  demanded  the  most  careful 
vigilance  on  the  part  of  strangers  to  their  ideas,  who  desired  to 
avoid  giving  offence,  as  certain  members  of  the  expedition  real- 
i/ed  when  thev  found,  on  one  occasion,  that  thev  had  gravelv 
ofl'mded  the  great  crocodile  school  of  medicine  bv  shooting  one 
of  those  huge  reptiles  as  it  lav  basking  in  the  sun  on  a  >and- 
ha  ik  near  the  village.  Nature1  alone  has  dealt  kindly  with 
these  degraded  beings.  (lod  made  nature;  it  is  the  shadowy 
exj)ression  of  (Jod.  It  does  not  teach  distinctly,  but  it  teaches 
truly  ;  and  nowhere  is  its  language  more  beautiful  than  in 
Ai'rica  ;  and  it  is  an  inspiration  for  Christian  xeal  in  the  work  of 
Lrivin'j;  the  tribes  of  that  unhappy  land  to  know,  that  even  in 
th. 'depths  of  their  ignorance,  and  under  the  influence  of'  the 
m.tst  corrupting  institutions,  and  the  victim-  of  most  deliberate 
crielty,  there  are  those  among  these  tribes  who  are  not  in>en- 
H'i'ile  to  the  charms  of  nature.  There  could  hardly  have  been  a 
ir.ore  beautiful  answer  given  than  that  which  one  of  the  Bcchu- 
anas  irave  in  explanation  of  the  meaning  of  their  word  "  boilse- 
faho,"  "  holiness."  He  said  :  "'  When  copious  showers  have 
descended  in  the  ni^ht,  and  all  the  earth  and  leaves  and  cattle 
are  washed  clean,  and  the  sun  rising  shows  a  drop  of  dew  on 
every  blade  of  trrass,  and  the  air  breathes  fresh,  that  is  holiness." 
The  most  charming  season,  if  one  may  be  preferred.  i<  toward 
the  end  of  summer,  when  the  rains  are  becoming  frequent  and 


A">  CHRISTMAS    IN    AFRICA. 

vegetation  is  resuming  its  warm  eoat  of  life,  whose  varied  colors 
distinguish  it.-  -insular  b»-antv.  At  that  sea>ou  the  air  becomes 
clear,  inviting  the  nn-t  c\t«nd«-d  L':I/«'.  a.-  if  all  tiling  were 
proud  I  v  ea^er  for  di-piav.  "The  voting  foliage  of  several 
tre»»-,  more  «>p«fiallv  "ii  tin-  highlands,  eome>  out  brown,  pah- 
D-d,  "r  j'ink,  like  the  hn---  »f  autumnal  h-.ives  in  Kn^land  ;  and 
:is  the  leave-  increase  in  -i/«-  th«-v  change  to  a  pleasant  In-h 
li^ht  ;_rrc»  n  ;  bright  \\hite,  .-e-.irlet,  pink,  and  vellow  Mower-  are 
e\-i-r\  \\ln-re  ;  and  -min-  few  of  dark  enni-"ii.  like  those  of  the 
ki^elia,  u'ivc  warmth  "t  coloring  to  Nature'-  garden.  Manv 
trees,  -n<-!i  a-  tin-  -earlct  ervthrina,  attraet  tin-  eve  bv  the  Ix-autv 

•  it'  their  bl  "--Km-.      The  \\  hit<-,  t'nll  bit  mm  of  the  baobab,  coming 
at  linn--  In  t'oi-e  tin-  rain-,  and    tin-   -mall  and    delicate  Mower-  of 
otln-r  tr< •(-.  'jp-iipt  d  into  rich  cluster-,  deck  tin-  lop-t.     Mvriads 
of  wild    lice-    an-    bu-\-  fpim  morniir_r   till    niL'tit.      Some  of  the 
ai-i'-i;t<    p. .--,--  a  |n-'-uliar   attraction    tor   "in-   -pe<-ic-   of  beetle; 
while  the  jialm  allnr---  otln-r-  t->  e.n.^re-jat"-   "ii  it-  ample  h-av« •-. 
In-«-<'t-  -if  all  -"I'l-  arc  HM\V  in  full   t'>p-c;  brilliant  bnttcrtlic-  Mil 
from  M"Wi-r   tn  flower,  and,  \\ith   tin    charming  little  sun-bird-, 
which  rcpiv-i-nt   tin-  humming-bird*  "I"  Anieri<ti  and   tin-  \\--t 
Indie-,  ni-vt-r  -ct-m  t->  tire.      Multitude-  i.f  ant.-  ar«-  hard  at  \\«-rk 
hunting  f<ir  t'"»l,  "r  ln-aring   it    home   in  triumph.      Tin-  winter 
bird-  nt'  pa--a_re.  -inh    a-    the    \i-lln\\    wagtail    and    blue  drongo 
«hrike>,  have  all    ^one,  and  other  kind-  have  cotne  ;   the  brown 
kit--    \silh    hi-    piping     like    a    b'.at-\\ain'-    \\lii-tlc,    the    -pott'-d 
en-  k'Mi  \\ith  a  call  like  'pn!a,'  and  tin-  r-'lli-r  and  horn-bill  with 
tln-ir  l"ud    hi^h    in-tc-,  are  •  -cca-imiallv  ilistinetlv  heard,  though 
^••iierall'/   llii-    har-ln-r    mil-ic  i-  hall    ilrowtie«l  in  tin-  volume  of 
--.\'it  -"imd-  poup-d  1'irth  Irom  man\  a  throbbing  llimat,  w  hich 
!:ia!-.- •-  an    Atri'-an  '   hri-tma-    -ei-m    like  ail    Kngli-h   Ma\."       No 
•,S"M'l'!'    it    -ei-nnd    -trance  to  the   I  .M_rli-linn  n,  \\  li"  had    alwavs 
haii'd  i'-  happv  eve  wrap[Mi]   m  tln-ir  lli-.<-\-  PI|M--,  or  Ixvidc  tin1 
l'!a/iiij    laniiiv   tir-  ,  "f    amnl-t     tin-    jinglinn;    of   mcrrv  1».  11-  and 
tin-  r;n_',!i_-  ol    tin  n  i--r    !au_flit<  r,  to    hav  the  dav   tin  \    loved    -o 
mu'happi  irdr---id    -<>    bn-jhtlv  in    njavi--t  color- ;    tin-  -injjin^ 
ii.rd-    in  1   -p:  i  li.:;  M/  cnrn  and  ll"\\ .  nn_'  plain-  \\  •  n-  in  tin-  pla«v 

•  •!    'in-    mantl'-    ,,|    -n«r.\    tin-  da\    had    alwav-  \\orn   \v  Inn   it  --aiin1 
•Ailh   it-   ^'ilt-  a:  id  -    to    tin -in    in    l'.n_'latid.       I'ut    it    \\a-  ii"t   a 
in  -.v    t'l.ii^    l-T    m-  ii    t"    think    that    everything    i-    <.,ntrar\    in 


THE    RAINY    SEASON.  207 

Africa.  Hercxlptus  only  expressed  the  climax  of  its  absurd iti*^, 
in  his  view,  when  he  wrote  of  the  hidden  land,  "There  \v<x»l 
grows  on  the  heads  of  men  and  hair  on  the  hacks  of  sheep." 
Dr.  Kirk  divided  the  year  in  Africa  into  three  seasons — the  cold 
period,  lasting  through  May,  June  and  July;  the  hot,  prevail- 
ing through  August,  September  and  October;  and  the  wet, 
which  extends  through  the  remaining  months. 

"The  rainv  season  of  Tete  diil'ers  a  little  from  that  of  some 
of  the  other  intertropical  regions;  the  cpiantity  of  rain-fall  being 
considerably  less.  It  begins  in  November  and  ends  in  April. 
During  our  first  season  in  that  place,  onlv  a  little  over  nineteen 
inches  of  rain  fell.  In  an  average  year,  and  when  the  crops 
are  good,  the  fall  amounts  to  about  thirty-five  inches.  On 
many  days  it  does  not  rain  at  all,  and  rarely  is  it  wet  all  day  ; 
some  days  have  merely  a  passing  shower,  preceded  and  followed 
by  hot  sunshine;  occasionally  an  interval  of  a  week,  or  even  a 
fortnight,  passes  without  a  drop  of  rain,  and  then  the  crops 
suflcr  from  the  sun.  These  partial  droughts  happen  in  Decem- 
ber and  January.  The  heat  appears  to  increase  to  a  certain 
point  in  the  different  latitudes  so  as  to  necessitate  a  change,  by 
some  law  similar  to  that  which  regulates  the  intense  cold  in 
other  countries.  The  Zambesi  is  in  flood  twice  in  the  course  of 
the  year;  the  first  Hood,  a  partial  one,  attains  its  greatest  height 
about  the  end  of  December  or  beginning  of  January  ;  the 
second,  and  greatest,  occurs  after  the  river  inundates  the  interior, 
in  a  manner  similar  to  the  overflow  of  the  Nile,  this  rise  not 
taking  place  at  Tete  until  March.  The  Portuguese  say  that  the 
greatest  height  which  the  March  floods  attain  is  thirty  feet  at 
Tete,  and  this  happens  only  about  every  fourth  \vur;  their 
observations,  however,  have  never  been  very  accurate  on  anv- 
thing  but  ivory,  and  they  have  in  this  trusted  entirely  to 
memory." 

The  discoveries  of  Dr.  Livingstone  never  sustained  so  oreat  a 
rise.  It  rises  suddenly,  and  with  the  fir-t  flo^d  da.-hes  alon.x 
at  four  knots  an  hour,  but  graduallv  spreads  over  the  surround- 
ing country,  and  as  it  extends  in  breadth  re> nines  its  u-ual 
velocity.  Ordinarily  the  water  of  the  river  is  sinixularlv  pure, 
and  exhibits  not  the  slightest  discoloration,  except  in  the  fl*  >•><].-. 

The  former  reports  of  Dr.  Livingstone  were  abnr.dantV  c<>n- 
18 


firm  til  l»y  tin-  mrmU'rs  of  the  ex|»editi"ii,  ;i>  t<>  the  agricultural 
|K»*iibilitH*  of  tin-  foil.  Thev  had  brought  -oiue  <t>tton  stxtl 
with  tin-in  t.i  AlVi<-a,  but  l"imd  th:it.  L-ide-.  the  lii«-t  that  there 
ua.~  alreadv  a  >ujM-ri»r  -rade  "f  ei.ttnii  in  tin  countrv,  there  was 
ii"  h"|>e  "t'  in-['irin-  tin-  I*«irtii«rut>f  natives  with  auv  ich-ua 
above  bloek  ivurv  and  -old  du-t. 
••«,.,i.r  -,.1.1  •  -..M-  .....M; 

i:r..-ht  :in.|  yrll-.w.   l.iir!  an. I  --..].!  ; 
M-'lti-n.  /r.ix.n.  li.nniii.  r.  •!  .ui'i  r'.linl  ; 
H..HV   (.,  L-,-I  a!,.|   li -|,i   (,.  I,,. |,1  ; 
l|...ir.!.-i.  l-artrr.-!.  l-.-u.-hi  .m-l  —I.!  ; 
St.. !.-!..  l...rr.,u..l.  »,jii:in.i.  r.  .1.  .»••:. -I  ; 
>j.iirn.-|  \,\    tii.-  y. .mi-.      >it  liii-.-L-fl  >>>    tl.i'  i.ld 
'!'••  tli.-  \.-ry   \-  r..—  .,|    [I,.-  ,  l.ui  -,-i,  -\  .ir-i  imMilil  ; 
I'r:,---  "1"   111. in-.    :i  t-rnu.'  uut-.M  ; 

».,,i,i  •  k...i,i  •  -.,i,r  L-..M:  •• 

Had  bn'U'jht  thfUi  t,.  tlii-  -li.>rt,. 

l\\<-  ant  h>  -nt  n-~  at  IJ-|HIH,  like  tin-  authorities  evervu  liere, 
had  \\atelnil  tin-  tantai i/.nr_r  i'_rni^  lalnii-  "1  the  terra  iueu^nita 
•.'.  liieh  all  traditinii  |>"iniid  t".  until  their  t-.n- -i«  -,  i»venna.-t»-rtil 
i«v  their  de-ii-i--.  ~. «  ni'-d  t"  1-e  tin-  ec.nr]u-i"ii~  n|'  |ihil(i-«i|>hv  and 
thi-  t •  Mini"; iv  "f  hi-t"r\  .  :.nd  tin  \  ha-ti  m •<!  t"  | ...•-•  -- •  the  Imi^. 
!"-t  <  >|iliir  in  <-.\-\< TII  Afrit-i.  and.  di-a|iji"ii!ted  ni"i-e  \>\  their 
•  \\  n  \'"l\\-  and  idlein--  than  l>\  tin-  n  .-miree-.  ,.('  the  enuntrv 

\\hiejl     theV    \\i-pe     Hi".;  !' e!  l||-_r,    th'A'    \\ile     a  I  1  •  '1 1 1  ] '!  !  II  Lr     t"    eii|ll|ie|l- 

-.itf  t  In  -iii-e|\  •-  li>r  the  di-a|i|niintnn  nt  \>\  mnvcniii^  tin- 
]•!-.  .-i.-u-  bl.-'k  ivm-v  int..  -"Id.  I'.n;  -"Id  i~  -.-111.  and  1'ortu^al 
liiiind  a  v.  "rid  lull  "I  -vnijiathv  !"r  her  in  the  ,-,<•,,/)/>,  ,,j  h<-r 
ili*ifi,i>iiitifntfiit.  There  \\:i-  ii"  ju-tilieatinii  "f  ilu-  ree,mr-e. 
<  I  .Id  ua-  iiiii|in-ti"iialil\-  plentv.  Thev  (ill  int"  the  -nare  (if 
tl,"-e  \\||,,  rnake  ha-te  t"  In-  rieli.  and  tin  \veakiie»  and  eon- 
:en,j,'  t"  v.liieh  their  ei.lmiv  wa-  ii"\\  ndiieed  \\a-  niily  the 

retillke    ,,|'     ['ri.vi.lell.-e.         The    -..Id      tl.-ld-    h:ld    bee||    ('"rleiled,    aild 

th-'lr  t  !••  .i-',ire-  i-eiiiain  -eeiin-  -till  t"  nward  a  I«>itirr  \vis<]n!ii 
and  !  nil  r  pli  liatit  In''  >|'\  . 

<  M  e,,iir-e  the  ne\\e,,iner-  did  ii"t  think  ••!'  enjux  mi:  the  lull 
t«  IP  !:t-  ..('  \t'rie:in  lil'e,  ..r  ei.iuitin-  tin  in-i  l\e~  t"  ha\e  a  ehum 
•  •:i  all  i1-  irea-iin-  »\  thin--.  ne\v  and  "!d.l»-|iire  tln\  had 

(.•!--'<!  tl,I-"Mjh  tlr  "ideal  whieh  IliaV  a-  Well  l»  e"ll-ider.d  the 
Hilt  laturv  eei  e|il"HV  nf  the  ei  nit  ilii  lit.  <  )|ie  "1  t  lie  IlJellll  M  fs  <>l 

'h.     •xj.'difi'iii     l.a-    \\ritten    tin    thi-    in-j'iring    thi-im-    \\ith    * 


A    SERIOrS    MATTKK. 

master  skill.  More  particularly  was  lie  im pressed  with  tin- 
singular  effects  of  this  rite  of  the  continent  on  the  mind-  of 
those  who  were  willed  on  to  submit  to  it.  His  own  elo<|ix  nt 
words,  pervaded  by  a  depth  of  feeling  which  leaves  little  dmil.t 
of  the  teacher  at  whose  feet  he  received  his  impressions,  arc  a> 
follows  : 

"  Cheerfulness  vanishes,  and  the  whole  mental  hori/on  is 
overcast  with  black  elouds  of  gloom  and  sadness.  The  liveliest 
joke  cannot  provoke  even  the  semblance  of  a  smile.  The  coun- 
tenance is  grave,  the  eyes  suffused,  and  the  few  utterances  are 
made  in  the  piping  voice  of  a  wailing  infant.  An  irritable 
temper  is  often  the  first  symptom  of  approaching  fever.  At 
such  times  a  man  feels  very  much  like  a  fool,  if  he  does  not  act 
like  one.  Nothing  is  right,  nothing  pleases  the  fever-stricker 
victim.  He  is  peevish,  prone  to  find  fault  and  to  contradict, 
and  think  himself  insulted,  and  is  exactly  what  an  Irish  naval 
surgeon  before  a  court-martial  defined  a  drunken  man  to  be: 
'a  man  unfit  for  society.'  If  a  party  were  all  soaked  full  of 
malaria  at  once,  the  life  of  the  leader  of  the  expedition  would  be 
made  a  burden  to  him.  One  might  come  with  lengthened 
visage,  and  urge  as  a  good  reason  for  his  despair,  if  further 
progress  were  attempted,  that  '  he  had  broken  the  photograph 
of  his  wife;'  another,  'that  his  proper  position  was  unju>tly 
withheld  because  special  search  was  not  directed  towards  "the 
ten  lost  tribes."  It  is  dangerous  to  rally  such  a  one,  for  the 
irate  companion  may  quote  Scripture,  and  point  to  their  habitat 
'  beyond  the  rivers  of  Ethiopia.'  When  a  man  begins  to  feel 
that  everything  is  meant  to  his  prejudice,  he  either  takes  a  dose 
of  '  ro users,'  or  writes  to  the  newspapers,  according  to  the 
amount  of  sense  with  which  nature  has  endowed  him." 

It  is,  however,  the  deliberate  testimony  of  Dr.  Livingstone, 
that  there  is  a  reliable  preventative  against  even  African  fever, 
to  be  found  in  "  plenty  of  interesting  work  and  abundance  of 
wholesome  food  to  eat,"  a  prescription  which  may  not  be  de- 
spised in  any  count rv. 

''  To  a  man  well  housed,"  savs  he,  "and  clothed,  who  enjovs 
these  advantages,  the  fever  at  Tete  will  not  prove  a  more  for- 
midable encmv  than  a  common  cold  ;  but  let  one  of  these  be 
wanting — let  him  be  indolent,  or  guilty  of  excesses  in  eating  or 


3<)0  I.iK>KIN«;    T«>    T1IK    >HIKK. 

drinking,  or  have  |HM.r,  -cantv  fir-  •—  :ni'l  the  fever  will  proba- 
bly U-o>me  a  mojv  -eriou-  mat''  r.  It  i-  of  a  milder  t\pe':it 
lVte  than  at  Quilunaiie  <>r  on  the  !'-w  -a  -eo-i-t  ;  and,  a-  in  this 
part  of  .  \frii-.i  "!!••  i-  a-  liable  t"  f.-ver  a-  to  cold-  in  Kii'jland,  it 
would  U-  advi-ahlc  for  -tranj-T-  a'-.vav-  to  ha-ten  from  tlirc<>a>t 
to  tin-  higher  land-,  in  order  that  \\  IK  11  the  -ei/ure  doc-  take 
p!a<-e,  it  niav  U-  of  the  mildc-t  t\-|>i'.  Thi-  havin«j  Ix-cn  pointed 
out  \>\  I  >r.  Kirk,  the  l'ortu_:u<--r  authorities  nftiTWiinls  took  th(^ 
hint,  and  -•  nt  th*-  next  drtaehim-nt  ot  sdldit-rs  at  once  up  to 
l«:e.  It  itiii.nMitl  of  eighty  ni'  ii.  and  in  -jiite  of  the  irrr^nlar- 
iti--  i-oiiiniittc.l,  ni"-t  of'  th«  ni  )H  -in^  of  the  c!a—  termed  '  incnr- 
nj-ilile-,'  in  thnt1  vear-  mdy  ten  di-d,  and  luit  five  of  fever." 

\\   1th    the   opening    ,,f    the     l|e\\     Vear    the    attention    of    the   expe- 

dition \va-  lixe<l  upon  the  Shire,  \\ho-e  d  iiitlueiiec  with  the 
?.vnl»c-i  niav  !»•  -een  al»>iit  a  hundred  mile-  tV"in  the  sea,  The 
|  ',  in  u_;U'-''  heard  of  thrir  plan-  lor  aM-emliii'j  thi-  .-tream  with 
•  ii-inav  ;  it  \\a-  a—  •<M'i:iii-»|  in  their  mind-  wilh  all  that  wa- 
ilitlieiili  and  peril'  in*.  I  ln-v  could  Lri\''  no  infonnation  \\hat- 
ev  r  aliout  it  ,  alt  !i"U'/!i  it  wa-  renie(nl»red  that  \iar-  Kefope  a 
I'o:  !u_Mi'-e  \-e--el  had  att'iupt'd  t"  a-cend  it.  The  explanation 
of  the  failure  niu-t  either  If  lotind  in,  or  wa-  e,.ucca!id  l>v.  the 


j,  ive  IHI  n  {ound  mi  n-  -urla<  e.  1  here  \\ere  "  -uli  ro-a  "  whi-- 
]'-r.n_r-  which  -il^Lje-letl  -nine  uneei  -taint  v  \\hefher  the  iluck- 
i.v.-d  -;.irv  \\a-  not  invented  t"  conceal  the  retreat  of  the 

I  'ort  ll_Mle-e    !ie)i  i|'e    (he    |Mii-o||(ll    a  !To\\  -  (  1  1  '  (  !  I  e    Hat  I  Ve-.         HoW«'Ver 

r  it'  mav  lie,  the  re-ide!it-  of  T'-te  could  not  have  IK'  n  hired  to 
undertake  a  tin--i"ii  up  th--  Shire.  "  <  )ur  ^«»VfniiM«Mit,"  -aid 
on-  ••  •  •mmandan:  to  I  'r.  1  .1  \  i  n_r-tone.  "  ha-  -•  ni  order-  to  a—  i-t 
and  protect  vou  ;  !iut  sou  ^M  \\  hej-e  \\e  dare  noi  |ollu\v,and  h<>w 
e.in  -A  i  pr-.T'-'-t  \i>u  .'  '  \..tli:ir_r  r>  m:tiii<*d  ti>  In  done  in  another 
(!,!•••',•  .:i,  a-  th'-v  had  .lei-id-'d  to  \\.ut  (oj-  a  -tr-'irjer  l>"at  '"  f'-r-- 
Rf.'-riii'Mn/  to  fore.-  the  |\.-lir.il>a-a  rapid-.  l»  inj  -ati-fied  that 
ihe  "  \\  \.  I,'"  K'l-t  "  \\a-  uiie.jiia!  to  the  und«  rt  a  !.  i  \\.r.  Thi-reti.rp 
th'-v  -•  '  out  in  .laiMiarv  ,  1  v  •")'.'.  "ii  t  h<-ir  lir-t  nip  up  the  Shire. 


CHAPTER    XVII  I. 

THK   SHIRK.  % 

Mouth  of  tht>  Shire—  Difficulties  Vanish—"  F.nirlishman  "—Shire  V alloy — Afri- 
can Swamp — Livingstone's  Art  — Mount  Moramhala — .Mountain  Village — 
('hikanda — Two  Pythons— Purtmed  hy  a  Buffalo  -The  Steamer —A  Sinking 
Ship —  No  Note  of  Time  —  Tin-  Musician  —  Hippopotamus  Traps  —  Shire. 
Margin's  Water-fowl— !'.ites  and  Vultures — Forest  of  I'ulin  Trees — Island*  of 
ihe  Shire — An  I'nhappy  I'hief— Village  of  Chihisa — Chihisa — Luke  Shirwa  — 
Sympathy  of  Fools — Discovery  of  Lake  Shirwa— lie-turn  to  the  Ship — F.xpcdi- 
tion  to  Lake  Nyassa — Manganja  Hills— Village  of  Chilimba — The  Manganja 
People — Airriculture — C'otton — Maniifartures — Iron  <  >re — Native  Tradi — The 
l'pper  Lip  Rinu'  —  Beer  Prinking — Drunken  Villages — Love  of  Home — The 
Muave  Again — Faith — Nyassa  Discovered  —  Return  to  Tele. 

SAILING  do\vn  the  Zambesi  amidst  scenes  which  are  always 
strange  and  wonderful  to  those  whose  imaginations  have  onlv 
had  the  training  of  northern  climes,  passing  many  points  which 
they  could  not  call  familiar,  though  they  were  not  new  to  them, 
the  expedition  turned  into  the  river  whose  bar  of  duck-weed  or 
hedge  of  poisoned  arrows  had  kept  the  secret  of  its  wealth  and 
wonders  so  securely  against  the  feebleness  and  irresolution  of 
the  Portuguese,  and  were  pleased  to  find  deeper  though  nar- 
rower water  than  they  had  Ictt. 

( >n  their  right  hand,  not  far  from  the  river,  stood  the  stockade 
of  Mariano,  one  of  those  villanous  half-caste  marauders  whose 
unscrupulous  barbaritv  justified  the  native  saying  that  "God 
made  the  African  and  (Jod  made  the  white  man,  but  the  devil 
made  the  half-castes,"  a  conclusion  which  the  most  /ealons 
defender  of  Divine  sovereignty,  who  ha-  had  experience  with 
them,  does  not  feel  called  on  to  question.  The  residence  of  this 
man  may  go  fur  toward  explaining  the  suspicion  with  which  the 
natives  under  Tingane  had  regarded  all  approaches  from  the 
Zambesi.  Their  poisoned  arrows  were  in  constant  demand  in 
protecting  themselves  from  the  slave-yoke  which  he  handled 
with  a  cruelty  which  mu-t  have  been  very  exhilarating  to  his 
supposed  creator.  And  the  knowledge  that  he  repiv-eiitcd  a 


3»V2  MTFI«  ri.THls    VANISH. 

sy-tem  intruduo-d  1«\  \\hite  nii-n  naturally  led  the  tril>es  t«>  asso- 
ciate every  lighter  -hade  tlrui  their  own  dark  skins  with  the 
eviU  \vhii-h  thev  kin  -w  att«  nd-d  tin-  dominion  of  the  >tockade. 
It  was  natural  eii"ii_rh,  then,  t'-r  the-e  j»«Mij»|e  to  apjN-ar  in  fonv 
•  »:j  th«-  Uird'  r  "f  their  territory  t<>  iv-i-t  the  approaches  of  the 
"  pulling  ami  Ii!"\\in^"  HI-HI-NT  that  the  "  (  )K1  A-thmatie" 
utxjuotionahly  -eeim-d  t"  them  t-»  l>e.  Thev  may  have  thought 
tliat  the  re-'ilute  en-at'>r  had  tak«-u  in  hand  to  do  in  jK-r-on  the 
\v..rk  which  hi-  faithful  ereat lire  had  lailrd  to  aeeoinpli.-h.  ami 
it  \V:L-  tiuu-  f'«r  th'-iu  \»  put  firth  all  ihcir  prowe^<  if  thev  woiiM 
ftill  IM-  fViT.  I  >r.  Li\-iiiLr~t'iiif  did  not  hoitatr  to  ^o  on  !>h<Te 
at  th«'ir  \illaj---  and  i-\p!ain  t"  tin--*1  jM-.iplc,  who-e  attitude 
would  have  intiinidatei]  an  ordinary  man,  tin-  pur  pox -s  of  tin1 
e\ jMilitiKH.  Ih'-  naiiu't.)  Kn^li-hinan  pn--1-~cd  n.-df  a  charm 
f if  tii- -in,  and  r-ii-tained  l>v  tin-  a.—  uranci-  that  thev  d«-ind  no 
*!av<-,  Imt  milv  t«i  "p'-ii  a  \\av  liv  \\liich  their  eountrvnH-n 
nii^'ht  cc.ni''  I"  |iiirclia-«-  c.itt.iii.  i\-(irv,  c.ini,  etc.,  went  lar 
t'f.vard  allaying  th-  ir  appri  li> -n-ioii-  and  \\innin^  th'ir  (Vi«-nd- 
-liip.  Ill'-  i«l,|ii-t,  Ix'iii'j  (•>  pr<»nitit«-  indn-trv  and  cuMinim-.'. 
-«-i  Hi' d  ijiiiti-  r-  -:L-onal>l«-,  and  lh<-  ii'itun- ni-  pHK-livitv  of  tin- 
ra'-e  to  all  -•rf-  "f  trade  and  l-art-T  aid-d  tin-  argument  n.> 
li'.rl--.  There  W:L-  t'"iind  al-i  a  genera  1  1>«  lie)'  in  a  Supreme 
It-inland  in  tin- eontinne«l  e\i-t«-ini' of  departetl  -pint.-;  and 
th-Te  W:L««  ii"  dith'-ultv  in  nlitainin^  their  attentidn  i.»  "  the 
R».l<  "  uhi'-h  aid'-d  ~'i  niiieh  tip-  de-i'_'ii-  ><{'  friendliness  everv- 
\vhen-.  Sii'-h  method-  ,,f  dealing  with  them  \\i-re  :L-  -trance  to 

th rude    m<  n    a-    \\a-    the    tremendous   crafl    \\hicli    l>r«u_:ht 

(hern,  and  tin-  poi-oned    arr»w-    K.-caine  a-  harmlf--  ai  the  ll«>at- 

IIIJ     d'leK  \Vee.l. 

The  L.,\\e|-  Shire  flo\\--  tlip'ULrh  a  valh-v  varvin-j  in  lireailth 
f:  .MI  fen  j.i  tv/eiiTv  mile-  an  exceedingly  |..\\-  and  -\\amp\- 
r<  j.'  in  ;  pi-t  -u el i  a  ci  iiml  rv  a-  in  <  <  1-  t<  •  I  •«•  -ei-n  ;tt  all  -r:i-<  >n-  •  •( 
ear.  A  fr«'pic;il  -\\amp,  it  -'-en  onlv  whi-n  -corehttl  and 
•v/it-.-'d  !••.  th--  ra\  -  -if'  a  -un  \\lm-e  Imrnini;  hrillianev  alni'^t 
;i-f:ti'-  the  a".e  \\ith  \\liieh  it  m-pip-  Ma-ti  rn  wop-hipperx, 
!•.  is-  app'-ir  il.-.ilate  :md  fur-aken,  and  -n^-j>  -t  -•  rimi-  fhnii^ht.- 
i  •!"  the  i.it'-  r  ila\  .  I  !  i  :i  t  h>-  \\  <  ir-e  -e;i~i.n  -till,  \\  !i.  n  the  ^niiind 
i-  'lr\in_'  and  'h--  m«  reiir\  i-  jnidii.dlv  n-m-j-  in  the  -hi--  \.iii 
car:'1.-.  th'M  th'i'  ma\  -'-in  !"  I"-  flitting  '\ir\\\h-re  mo-t 


A    TKOI'ICAL   HWAM1'.  .°,0.", 

dreadful  torturers,  and  the  pulse  will  engage  the  attention  alx>ve 
all  possible  charms  of  external  nature.  Hut  when  the  frequent 
rain*  refresh  all  tilings,  and  cloudy  canopies  are  often  spread 
over  tre»s  and  flowers,  and  the  sun  seems  resting  from  its  ire, 
then  the  wealth  of  foliage  and  flowers  and  fruits,  the  melody  of 
birds  whoso  various  hues  present  a  museum  of  colors,  and  the 
lifefulness  of  every  creeping,  swimming,  crawling,  cn'mbing, 
leaping  and  strolling  thing,  from  ants  to  elephants,  rivals  the 
most  wonderful  fancies  which  are  wrought  into  the  primitive 
abode  of  man.  Thus  we  may  appeal  to  the  seasons  for  the 
explanation  of  the  difference  between  the  ple:isant  pictures 
drawn  by  Dr.  Livingstone  and  the  mournful,  wail-like  lan- 
guage! of  Mr.  Rowley,  who  could  onlv  see  ''swamp,  swamp, 
swamp — reeking,  festering,  rotting,  malaria-pregnant  swamp." 
It  is  very  much  pleasanter  to  settle  the  question  between  two 
men  by  the  sun  and  clouds,  than  bv  bringing  the  "  liver"  into 
it.  Indeed,  one  of  the  special  charms  bv  which  Dr.  Living- 
stone secured  the  attention  and  deepened  the  interest  continually 
with  which  the  eyes  of  the  world  followed  him  in  his  wander- 
ings was  his  capacity  to  find  pleasant  things  as  well  as  painful 
ones.  He  enables  us  to  look  on  the  world  as  it  is.  He  did  not 
hide  the  fact  that  there  were  ills  in  Africa.  The  man  would  he 
a  ''natural"  indeed  who  should  dream  of  ease  and  luxury  with 
his  narrative  in  hand.  But  he  did  not  tail  to  observe  the  good 
for  which  men  might  dare  to  confront  the  ill.  If  a  man  mu.-t 
scorch  with  fever,  whv  should  he  not  see  a  flower?  If  he  must 
encounter  suspicion  and  sometimes  be  in  peril  of  his  life,  whv 
should  he  not  record  the  kindness  shown  him  and  observe  the 
beauties  which  no  blemishes  should  conceal,  the  excellencies  of 
character  which  divide  dominion  with  what  we  hate? 

The  object  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  as  a  man  and  as  a  representa- 
tive of  the  British  imvernment,  was  not  only  to  explore  the 
river  and  examine  the  country  ;  that  alone  would  have  In-en  an 
idle  enterprise,  and  unworthy  of  his  Christian  /eal  and  of  the 
Kntjlish  name.  He  was  commissioned  also  to  engage  the 
friendlv  regard  of  the  tribes,  and  cultivate  such  an  acquaintance 
with  them  as  might  facilitate  any  subsequent  enterprises  of 
church  or  state  in  their  midst.  lie  needed,  therefore,  to  be 
exceedingly  careful  that,  with  so  large  and  varied  ;>  "oinpany  ns 


?,O4  Mol'NT    MoKAMUAl.A. 

IK-  lurrittl,  nothing  .-hoiild  !*•  done  whieh  might  frustrate  his 
.le>ii:n.  1  lit-  aiixioii-  throng-  who  lined  the  hanks  of  the  river, 
pi/.iii'j  on  tin1  >traii;je  "i-uii'M1  tull  ot  -tran-je  people  passing  hv 
tin-in,  were  ignorant  ami  (ii^radtil  a<t*ording  to  our  standard  of 
intelliiTeixv  ami  tlijjnitv  ;  but  tin  v  wen-  the  people  whose1  t'leva- 
tion  it  w:is  tin-  ohjtvt  of  tin-  t'X[M.tlition  t<»  promote. 

'I'lu1  vallfv  i-  walled  on  either  .-ide  hv  U-autiful  hill.-,  and  for 
twentv  mih~  tho-e  on  their  ri^ht  hand  \vi  n-  <|iiit<-  m-ar.  I'lirn 
(hi-v  mine  to  Moratnhala,  "tin-  loltv  \\atcli-tn\\ir" — a  dctachc<l 
mountain  onlv  live  hundred  yanl>  iVi>m  the  river — whieh  ri.-es 
four  thousand  !• .  t  ahovr  tin-  -ra.  The  Ixild.  |>rrri|tit<ms  front, 
\\  hi«-li  ea>t  it-  ni'-nun.;  hhadous  toward  the  Shire,  eheri-hed  a 
in^  vc^i-tati"ii,  hnt  n-pelletl  all  thought  of  a-eent  hv 
reatnn •-  than  thi-  monkeys  \vhieh  jilavi-d  at  hide  and 
-e«-k  from  toj>  to  iMittom,  ••zilliiii;  away  attention  iV-'in  th<- .-inur'.:  • 
!ar-l"okiiiLr  horn-hill,  \\ho~,-  dr.-a-lt-d  d.atti  i-  h.-!ii-\rd  to  ;iilli.-t 
the  whole  land  \\ith  cold,  the  lnmh<  rin_r  rhinin-cro-,  ainl  IxMiui- 
lul  ra'-in^'  antd' I|H--,  hv  their  <|tn-<  r  eapiT-.  Snn-lv  if  nn>n  are 
-prun/  tr-'in  inonk«  v-  the  ni"-t  elo\vni-h  i-  ni-ar«--t  in  tin-  line. 
'l!i«-ir  in«-i-— ant  ^amlMillin^  and  chattering  attraet  the  attention 
•  \.n  ot'  the  native-,  \\h",  df-pite  n--w  ^rud^f-  tln-v  n- :u  Iv 
alwav-  o\v.-  th'-ni  on  aei-oimt  o|'  tln-ir  ]ilnnd<  i'«  d  garden-  and 
t'n-'d-,  eannot  r«--i-t  tin1  ta.-i-inati"n  ot  their  eoinieid  ei-ecntrieiins. 

'1  It--  -oiitlp'ni  <-:id  of  thi'  mountain,  -<•<  n  ti'"in  a  di-tanee,  lia^ 
a  I'm'-  gradual  -!"(>••.  and  half  wav  up  a  -mall  village  wa-  p«-ep- 
ini_'  out  o|'  tli'-  fo!ia_r«-.  Thi-  at  inovpl),  |-,.(  ;i~  -IPin,  ,,f'  the  jiartv 
a-'-i nd'-<l  th«-  mountain,  \vas  (oimd  ln-ei»minir  ileli^ht fnllv  pure 
and  hra'-in^,  and  tli«-  p.-.. pi.-  of  tin-  viHa-_p'-  iv«-.-iv.-d  th'-m  l^iiiill\-. 
I  1 1.  -ii  in  in  it  of  thi-  mountain  wa-  i-oVered  \\  it  h  a  _ri'"\\  t  li  entin-lv 
uii'iL--  uliat  th'-v  had  -'  ••  n  in  tin-  vallev.  'I  !n  ri-  \\ .  r.-  oran-j*1. 
Ifin  >!i,  and  -'»mi-  pllM  apple  ti«<-.  thuiijli  tin-  la!!,  r  had  IM.II 
p!anf--d  th'-n-.  I'ut  tin  —  -  happv  and  tVi'-ndl\  n-id''lit-  "f  the 
••uinmit.  a!i"Ut  uhi'-h  fri'-ndlv  i-l. .ud-  n-t'd  »h«-n  all  tin-  plain 
>\  i-  -...]-.  li.-d,  .-In -I-;-  I,m  _r  t  h'-  <-h>  •:<••  -t  fruit-.  I "  t'>P  tin-  !at.  r  \  i-Jts 
i>{  Li  vin_r-t'  'I!--  t"  tip  ;r  do in.  -.  had  ln-i-..m.  il,.  \  i,  tim-  .,('  \Iari- 
uii",  and  Kid  I.e.  n  i.>ar!v  all  '-ai'ih-'l  aua\  t'l-m  tle'r  liappv 
I'M -d-. m.  <i.»l  L  n-.w-  \\  h.  th'-r  tli.\  t'.  i!  nnd-  i"  hi-  >  ru.  !t  j.  -  or 

•  '  i '  a//:  n.'  '  -u!  a  '.\ .  a'  ^  1  >•  .nda-_'<-  i  u  -oinr  !ar  a  n  a\  !  ii , .  1  ^  •  -. 
',  !  k  !!'••.'.  -,  and  uil!  n-'  f.ii-^'t  t!i.  ir  h:-t..r\ 


TIIK    SHI  UK    VALLKY.  .'iOo 

Looking  from  Mornmbalu  across  the  tongue  of  hind  which 
lies  between  the  Shire  and  the  /ambe>i,  there  were  seen  a  few 
clninj>s  of  palm  and  aeueiu  trees,  and  herds  of  game  s\  hich  might 
have  tempted  Mini  rod  to  pitch  his  tent  there  in  contentment. 
Near  the  northern  base,  there  was  bubbling  up  a  little  boiling 
fountain  readv  lor  eggs  or  meats,  and  capable  of  doing  its  work 
thoroughly  enough,  to  the  sorrow  of  such  unlnckv  creatures  -M 
chanced  to  select  it  for  their  bath. 

Beyond  Morambala  the  Shire  comes  winding  through  an 
extensive  marsh.  For  maiiv  miles  to  the  north  a  broad  sea  of 
fresh  green  grass  extends,  and  is  so  level  that  it  might  be  used 
ior  taking  the  meridian  altitude  of  the  sun.  Ten  or  fifteen  miles 
north  of  Morambala  stands  the  dome-shaped  mountain  Makangn, 
or  ( 'hi-kanda  ;  several  others  with  granitic-looking  peaks  st retell 
away  to  the  north,  and  form  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  valley; 
another  range,  but  of  metamorphic  rocks,  commencing  opposite 
Senna,  bounds  the  valley  on  the  west.  After  steaming  through 
a  portion  of  this  marsh,  they  came  to  a  broad  belt  of  palm  and 
other  trees,  crossing  the  line  plain  on  the  right  bank.  Marks 
of  large  game  were  abundant.  Klephants  had  been  feeding  on 
the  palm  nuts,  which  have  a  pleasant,  frnitv  taste,  and  are  used 
as  i'ood  by  man.  Two  pythons  were  observed  coiled  together 
among  the  branches  of  a  large  tree,  and  were  both  shot.  The 
larger  of  the  two,  a  female,  was  ten  feet  long.  They  are  harm- 
less, and  said  to  be  good  eating.  The  Makololo  having  set  lire 
to  the  grass  where  thev  we're  cutting  wood,  a  solitary  buil'alo 
rushed  out  of  the  conflagration,  and  made  a  furious  charge  at 
an  active  young  fellow  named  Mantlanyane.  Never  did  his 
Meet  limbs  serve  him  better  than  during  the  few  seconds  of  his 
fearful  flight  before  the  maddened  animal.  \\  hen  he  reached 
the  bank,  and  sprang  into  the  river,  the  infuriated  beast  wa* 
sea  reel  v  six  feet  behind  him.  Towards  evening,  after  the  day's 
labor  in  wood-cutting  was  over,  some  of  the  men  went  fishing. 
They  followed  the  common  African  custom  of  agitating  th»« 
water,  bv  triviiiLT  it  a  few  sharp  strokes  with  the  top  of  the 
fjshinir-rod,  immediatelv  after  throwing  in  the  line,  to  attract 
the  attention  of  the  fish  to  the  bait.  Having  caught  nothing, 
the  reason  assigned  was  the  same  as  the  reader  would  be  likely 
to  jrive  under  like  circumstances,  namelv,  that  "the  wind  made 


"  I.AKK    OF    Mll>." 

the  fi-h  cold,  and  thev  wouhl  not  bite."  Many  gardens  of 
inai/.e,  pumpkin-  and  tobacco  fringed  the  marshy  bunk**,  be- 
longing to  native*  of  the  hill-,  who  come  down  in  the  drv 
K.ii>on,  and  rai-e  a  crop  on  part-  at  other  time*  flooded.  While 
the  crop-  are  growing,  large  ijuantiliis  of  ti-h  are  caught, 
:-hietlv  ( 'diriii*  en ^<  «.•>•<.•<  and  Mttyil  .Ijricnntui  j  thev  are  dried 
f.»r  *al»-  or  for  future  consumption. 

Farther  up,  tln-v  pa-.-ed  a  deep  -tivam  about  thirtv  vard* 
wide,  tlo\\inir  in  fro  in  a  UM!V  of  OJK-H  water  -everal  mile*  broad. 
NumU-r-  of  nn-n  \\eiv  bn.-v  at  different  part-  ot'  it,  tilling  their 
cuii'M-^  \\ith  the  lotu-  root,  called  A/////'/.  \\hich,  \\hen  Uiih-d  or 
roa.-ted,  re*einble-  our  chc-tnni-,  and  i-  extensivelv  u-cd  in 
Atrn".i  :L-  tood.  <  hit  ot  tin-  l:igooii,  and  bv  tin-  -tn-ain,  the 

chief'    jial'l     o|'    the     dm  k\Veed     o)'    tile    Shil'e     tlo\\-.        The     lagiMHJ 

i:-«-lf  i-  called  Nvanja  ea  Motope  i  Lake  ot'  M  ml  .  It  i-  al-o 
numed  Nvanja  I'augoiin  Little  Lake,  \\lule  the  elephant 
marsh  ^»«-.-  bv  the  name  ot  Nvanja  Mnknln  .(in-at  Lakei.  It 

I-  evident  tVollI  the  -ho|V  line  -till  to  be  ob-elVed  oil  tile  adja- 
cent hill-,  that  in  am-ii-i.t  time-  the-e  were  real  I v  lake-,  and  tin- 
traditional  name-  thu-  piv-erved  are  onlv  another  evidence  <d' 
the  ^emial  dc-ici-iitioti  which  Alnca  ha-  undergone.  No  one 
\\onld  U-!i(\e  that  U\ond  tln-*c  little  and  gn-at  Nvanja-  1'or- 
tujm«e  geographical  knouled^e  m  \  ej-  extended.  Hut  the 
Yi-coii'it  >a  da  I '.and-  ira,  in  an  otlieial  li-tter  to  the  (  iovernor- 
(ieuiTal  of  Mo/amlm jiie.  m  hi-  patriotic  anxntv  to  prove  that 

1  >r.     Li\  ill_r-!o|]e     did      Hot      di-eoVer      /.'//••       A  (/'/»''/,    '(Hole-     a-     the 

on'v  inform. ifioii  tin-  am-p-nt  archive-  ot'  Li-bon  can  di-clo-c, 
that  the  people  of' Senna  held  commercial  intercourse  with  the 
people  on  Mofambala,  and  of  eoiir-e,  a-  In  aver-,  mii-t  have 
-ail'd  info  the  little  and  '_Teat  mar-he-  or  N\an|a-  reicrnil  to 
:i\»>\ '  .  No  -,\ .  .nd> -r  that  a--umpt  \»\\  exhibiting  at  once  -. i  mm  h 
fa!--  m  --  and  i_'in.rane.-  \\a-  rather  a  -!ram  on  tin-  Ion j-nH'enii_r 
ot  th.  man  -A  ho  had  -o  patienflv  o\ .  rcoine  tin-  trcinendon- 
ol'-'a-  !•  -  '•!  di-tatn-e  and  danger-  in  brin^'MtL'  tin  hidden  regions 
t..  th,  km-v  -d  "•  ..f  th.  .  i\ili/ed  u.,rld. 

'I  h.     i  hail!:-  1    eont  nmd    ijuit'-    u' I.    bill     tin-    lilt!,     -teann-i. 

\\  hn  h  '  L'  •.  I.. id  !••!!_'  I  ••  foi  e  |,  ,und  to  1  >e  a  i_rram  I  htindui-j,  ^:\\  • 
'i.'ln  -m  h  an  amount  "t  troiible,  and  e<>n-Uinci|  -m  h  <jiia::ti!n  - 
ut  u  o.  .d,  t  hat  th'ir  ad\amie  ua-  liardK  ea-n-r  than  il  U"ii!d 


"NO    NOTK   OF   TIME.  30j 

have  been  on  the  laud.  It  was  of  infinite*  service,  however,  in 
impressing  their  neighbors  on  the  banks  with  the.  importance 
u|'  the  travellers,  and  gave  great  emphasis  to  what  thev  .-aid. 
An  appearance  of  strength  and  indepenilenee  helps  a  man  won- 
derfully in  Africa,  just  as  it  does  in  America,  and  one  feels 
under  no  special  obligation  to  tell  the  gu/.ing  throng,  here  or 
there,  that  the  ship  which  awes  them  is  ;i  leaking  ship.  1 1'  men 
do  not  know  that  it  leaks  they  may  not  try  to  sink  it. 

The  people  along  the  river,  of  whom,  in  the  lower  part,  Tan- 
gane  is  the  paramount  chief,  were  found  congregated  in  connt- 
]i  ss  little  villages,  just  as  in  other  sections  ;  and  though  at  first 
distant  and  a  little  inclined  to  be  belligerent,  generally  yielded 
to  the  arguments  which  overcame!  those  nearest  the  Shire.  Thcv 
were;  not  quite  as  eager  for  trade  when  they  were  iir.-t  visited  as 
they  afterward  became,  and  consequently  the  party,  during  the 
first  ascent  of  the  river,  were  considerably  annovcd  bv  the  lo>s 
of  time,  for  which,  however,  they  censure  a  people  who  took 
"  no  note"  of  the  commodity,  among  whom  it  had  no  "tongue.'1 
It  was  their  misfortune,  not  the  fault  of  the  natives,  that  they 
held  their  notions  of  expeditious  work  in  the  midst  of  men  who 
recognize  no  other  reason  Ibr  being  in  ;i  hurrv  except  the  neces- 
sitv  of  escaping  with  life  from  an  enemv.  Thev  could  not  be 
condemned  because  thev  did  not  know  the  value  of  monev,  and 
eared  too  little  for  the  advantages  of  a  market  to  be  eager  about 
selling  food.  They  were  willing  enough,  but  did  not  see  why 
thev  should  make  haste.  The  state  of  eager  competition  which 
in  America  wears  out  both  mind  and  body,  and  makes  life 
bitter,  is  here  happily  unknown.  The  cultivated  spots  are 
mere  dots  compared  to  the  broad  fields  of  rich  soil  which  are 
never  either  gra/ed  or  tilled.  Pity  that  the  plenty  in  store  for 
all,  from  our  Father's  bountiful  hands,  is  not  enjoyed  by  more. 

Rice  was  sold  at  wonderfullv  low  rates,  and  when  they 
chanced  to  come  to  villages  where  the  people  were  eager  to 
trade,  they  could  not  puivha-e  a  tithe  of  that  which  was  brought 
to  them.  This  \vas  particularly  true  of  their  experience  at 
Mbona  (10°  W  W  S."|  While  anchored  at  this  village,  they 
were  serenaded  in  the  evening  bv  a  native  minstrel,  playing  his 
quaint  tunes  on  a  species  of  fiddle  with  one  string,  and  singing 
strange,  wild,  unmusical  songs,  who  told  some  of  the  Makololo 


"0*  TIIK    N«*Tri:N.\I.    Ml  >[«  IAN. 

that  Fir  inteiid*-<l  t<»  play  all  nL'ht  t"  in.  luce  them  In  p\v  liiin  a 
pn-x-nt.  The  ni^lit-  IM-MI^  enid,  tin-  ilicrmotm'tcr  falling  to 
\~  ,  \\ith  oe.-fiotial  l'>'_r-.  he  \\:i-  a-ked  if  he  wa-  not  afraid  of 
jH-ri-hin.:  from  ',.1.1  ;  I.  in,  \\ith  the  genuine  -pint  of  an  Italian 
or^an-^rinder.  he  replied.  "Oh.  u"  :  I  -hall  «-|M'inl  the  niL'ht 
with  rnv  \\lute  ei  lairade-  in  the  ln_r  tiiiH'e;  1  haveottiii  heard 
of  the  \\hite  in-  ii,  hut  have  never  -een  tin  tn  till  now,  and  I 
mu-t  -in.;  and  plav  \\ell  to  them."  Sneh  a  priipo.-itioii  \\a- 
dr-adful.  The  -;tua:i"ii  wa»  -erioii-.  a-  \\lio  niav  not  iina^HM' 
\\ho  ha~  l>'-«-ii  r"  >i-d  "t  hi~  neide.1  ~!ii!iil'er  li\  the  iiiK-ltirual 
knight-  <>l  the  iini-e  who  inli-t  all  eoininiinit  ie-.  It  \\a-  an 
o«-«-a-i"ii  deinaii'linj  ae:i,.n,  and  the  trea-nrv*  \\in-  ojM-iuil  a." 
eaj-  i'lv  a-  ii  t»  -ati-t\  th"  «-'.vet..u*  d.-iuand-  <'t'  an  e\t<  .rt  i<  'iiate 
rliirf,  and  th--  few  \ard-  "!  e!.,th  \\i-rc  con-idered  \\ill  ~|»nt 

\\  ill'  il    \\efe    IIlV«-ted    III    1>'1\  lll_r    the    ei  ill  rt  ec  ill-    Vl-:t"r  "|T  Irolll    lll> 
|.Ur|M,-e. 

A  r:in_'--  <>f  hi!!-,  i-oitiiiH-neiiii;  o|i|,.,-i!,-  Si-nna.  e»tne-  t.  •  \\  it  hin 
t\\o  or  tin-.---  mill  -  .it'  M'I  .MI  i  \'i!!.i_"-.  and  then  run-  in  a  ii'-nli 
\\e-i.  -rl\  diri-*'tioii  ;  [hi-  jinneijial  lull  i-  named  Ma!a\\  •  ;  a  i.uin- 
\»  r  "t  vdia/i  -  -tand  "ii  ;t-  trei-i-ovi-n-*!  -id<  -,  and  e.  ,;d  i-  loiind 
«T"j>|-in_'  "Hi  in  the  PM-K-.  1  he  coimtrv  improved  a-  tlnv 
a-e!  nd'  d,  the  rii-!i  \allev  l»-i-oiiiin^  !•  --  -\\  atnp\  .  and  adorned 

U  it  h   a    UllIllIxT  of    tree-. 

I»"tii  hank-  \\ep-  d"tti  d  \\ith  hippopotainii-  trap-,  over  «-V«TV 
tra'-k  \\hieh  tln-e  animal-  ha\e  made  in  'j"in_r  n]>  out  "t  the 
ua'er  t"  _rra/'-.  I  h--  hippopotami^  t<-.  d-  "ii  L'ra~-  aluiie.  and, 


a>  !  like  a  nio\\  nij-maehiiii-,  and  form  a  pat  h  <  >l  -h"i't  •  r>  <\  >|"  d 
_'!-t-~  a-  it  I'-d-.  It  i-  ti'A-T  -'•'•u  in  rat  a'piatie  plant-  nr  rerd-. 
I  he  tu-1.-  -•••  m  \\i-apon-  ..t'  ii.,r!i  i.lV'-ti'-e  and  d-  li  ii'-e.  'I  In  hip- 
p"p'''amu-  ti'ap  emi-i-l-  o(  a  ln-am  h\'-  or  -i\  li-<  t  1'iiij,  ai'iin  d 
•A  .1  !i  a  -par  ic  id  or  har-  1  -  v.  •  »  »1  -pi  i.'  ,  e.  .\  .  n  d  u  :t  h  ]  "  •:-•  in,  and 
fc  i  -:••:;•  I  1  '•  •  a  !•  irk'-d  IM  .1-  I  ,\  a  e,  >rd,  v.  ii  i'-h.  •  "linn-  di  ,\\  n  t.  > 

I  I 

th-;  pi'ii.  i-  !i-  M  i.s  a  •  i'.  !i.  t"  l-e  -•!  fr.  ••  u  h-  n  lh«  !>•  a-l  1  1".  ad- 
"ri  :'  .  I'.  •..-".  a1".  In  ut-  -.  t  h-A'  are  -till  verv  inim-  i'i  'ii-.  (  >n.- 
•j-<:  r'i  ;  ;h*.  n-  d  '  •'.  :he  -hip  a-  -lie  \\  a-  -f.  aminj  elo-i-  |,  •  i  h--  hank  . 
1.  n  i  •  ".  '•  '  i  -i  .11  »•  i  '  m-  !.i  d  '  'ii  -h'ire,  and  ran  d  ;  r«  •<  t  !  v 
n:id'  r  a  t  :  i  p.  -\  K>  u  .  i  .  \  ;i  .  .im-  t  h-  In  a\  \  l»-am  mi  i1-  l-aek. 
dr>.::,.'  th-  p  ••:  "M-  d  -p-ar  h-  ad  a  f""t  d-  -  p  into  if-  tl.-!i.  h, 


itA  agony  it  plunge*!  hack  into  tin1  river,  to  die  in  a  few  hour-, 
uiul  afterwards  furnished  a  feast  for  the  natives.  Tlic  poi«on  on 
the  sjH'ar-heJul  docs  not  affect  the  meat,  except  the  part  around 
the  wound,  and  that  is  thrown  away.  In  some  places  the  de- 
scrnding  beam  is  weighted  with  heavy  stones,  hut  here  the  hard, 
heavy  wood  is  sullicieiif. 

A  few  miles  ahove  Mhotna  thev  came  t<>  the  village  of  the 
chief  of  the  country  through  which  they  had  heeii  pa-.-ing. 
Tin<;ane  was  an  elderlv  man  witli  grav  hair,  tall  and  well 
made.  The  excited  demeanor  which  was  natural  on  his  fir-t 
acquaintance  with  white  people  wore  away  with  his  observation 
of  his  new  friends,  until  in  the  later  visits  he  could  be  recorded 
among  the  hospitable  and  open-hearted  men  of  the  continent. 
Some  miles  to  the  right  from  this  village  could  be  seen  Mount 
Clarendon  looming  up  in  conspicuous  grandeur,  and  further  to 
the  northwest  the  Milange  ran  ire,  which  send  forth  from  their 
shadows  the  river  Rue,  which  flows  into  the  Shire  just  above  the 
village.  Onlv  a  short  distance1  above  th.1  confluence  of  the  Rue 
came  Klephant  Marsh,  with  its  fabulous  herd-  of  this  royal 
beast.  Eight  hundred  were  counted  in  a  single  herd.  Thi- 
was  trulv  a  wonderful  scene,  besides  the  enormous  herds  of  large 
animals  everywhere  to  be  seen. 

"The  Shire  marshes  support  prodigious  numbers  of  many 
kinds  of  water-fowl.  An  hour  at  the  mast-head  unfolded  novel 
views  of  life  in  an  African  marsh.  Xear  the  edge,  and  on  the 
branches  of  some  favorite  tree,  rest  score*  of  plotuses  and  cor- 
morants, which  stretch  their  snake-like  nocks  and  in  mure  ama/e- 
ment  turn  one  eye  and  then  another  towards,  the  approaching 
mon-ter.  Bv  and  bv  the  timid  ones  he^in  to  tlv  off,  or  take 
1  headers, '  into  the  stream  ;  but  a  few  of  the  bolder,  or  more  com- 
posed, remain,  only  taking  the  precaution  to  spread  their  wings 
readv  for  instant  flight.  The  prettv  ardetta  ( ILrmHit^  bubnlcn*}, 
of  a  light  yellow  comr  when  at  rest, -but  seemingly  of  a  pure 
white  when  flying,  takes  wing,  and  sweeps  across  the  green 
grass  in  large  numbers,  often  showing  where  buffaloes  and  ele- 
phants are  bv  perching  on  their  backs.  Flocks  of  ducks,  of 
which  the  kind  called  'Soriri'  \DenJrocygna  pcrxonnfir]  is  most 
abundant,  Iteing  night  feeders,  meditate  quietly  by  the  small 
lagoons,,  until  startled  by  the  noise  of  the  steam  machinery. 


•>1'J  FOKIXF    <)F    I'AI.M    TUKKS. 

1'elieans  glide  over  the  water  ratching  ti-h,  while  the  S-opus 
(Xfvjy/ux  uiiJirfttu)  and  large  heron-  peer  intently  into  pools. 
The  large  blaek  ami  white  -pur-winged  goose  (a  constant  ma- 
rauder of  native  garden--  -pring-  up,  and  circle-  round  to  find 
out  \\hat  the  disturbance  «-an  U'.  and  then  -et tie.-  down  again 
with  a  -pla-h.  Hundred-  of  Linongolo-  ( Anaxfoinu*  ItnmUi- 
(jcrn*  ri-e  on  the  u  in_r  from  the  clump-  of  reeds,  or  low  tnt-s  I  the 
tJH'hinuini'nii.  t'roni  which  pith  hat-  are  made  i,  on  which  thev 
build  in  oilonie-,  and  are  speedilv  hi'_rh  in  mid-air,  ('harming 
little  red  and  vellow  weaver-  i  Tim;  iiln  )  remind  one  of  butter- 
flies, a-  thev  llv  in  and  out  of  the  tall  gra.— ,  or  hang  t"  the 
month-  of  their  pendent  m-t.-,  chattering  bri-klv  to  their  mate- 
within.  Kit*-  and  vulture-  are  lui-v  overhead,  beatini:  the 
ground  tor  their  n-pa-t  of  carrion  :  and  the  -olemn-looking, 
-tat* -ly--tep|iiii'j  KlammgiH's,  with  a  ta-te  f!»r  dead  li-h.  or  men, 
stalk  -lowly  along  the  alnio-t  -taurnant  channel-.  (irotip-  ot 
mm  and  U.v-  are  -can-hing  diligently  in  vari'-u-  place-  tor  lotu 
and  otlur  p«it-.  Some  are  standing  in  canoe-,  on  the  \\eid- 
covered  ji"iid-.  -pear  m 'j  ti-h,  u  Inle  other-  an-  punt  in/  o\-<  r  t  he 
-mall  mter-eet  ni._r  -t  p  am-  t>  >  examine  their  -unken  li-h-ba-ket-. 
"  T.  •'•  a  I'd-  '\-.iiiiiLr,  hundred-  "('  prett  v  little  ha\\  k-  !:'/•>/ flirt  >- 
y /»'.-•  r.  #ji>  r*in".i  are  -e.  n  living  in  a  -oiitherlv  direct  ion.  and 
|rei|m_r  i,n  (|ra'j"ii-tlie-  and  liwii-ts.  I  hev  come,  ajipan-ntlv, 
t'roni  re-tiii'j  .-n  the  palm-trei-s  during  the  heat  <•!'  t!i<-  da\  . 
|-'l'"-k-  ot'  -ei--i.r-bill-  i  Hlti/itft >j>.«<  an-  then  al.-o  on  ihr  winjr, 
and  in  -«-an-h  <,(  t'«id,  ploughing  the  \\at»-r  with  their  !"\\<r 
mandil'le-,  which  are  nearlv  half  an  inch  longer  than  tin  npp»  r 

Oil'--. 

"  At  the  northea-tern  end  of  the  mar-h.  and  alnint  three  mi!<  « 
from  the  r:\-' r.  eniiimence-  a  i^n-at  t'on  -t  of  palm-t n-«--  /,'.//•"»,/.« 
.1  f/.i-.j,!"!.'  .  It  exti-nd-  manv  miles,  and  at  one  point  <,,m<- 
e]i,-e  •,,  tl,,  ri\.  r.  The  .j-niv  trunk-  and  jjiven  t<,p-  ..t  thi-  im- 
meii-e  ma--  •  •('  t P  e-  [_'i vim  a  plea-ing  tone  ot  eolor  to  the  view. 
I  };••  m"U!i«a-n  raii/e.  \\hieh  ri-e-  i-lo-*-  behind  the  palm-,  i- 
l'>'.\>  ra!!\-  of  a  •heerth!  /re. n,  an<l  ha.-  many  tree-  \\ith  patc|.<  - 
ot'  a  li-.'h:-  r  tint  ani',n_'  them,  a-  it'  -pot-  of  lain  1  had  once  1  •«  .  ri 
etilri',  at*  <l.  Tie  -hup  an /'liar  roi-k-  and  dell-  on  it-  -id.-  ha\  *• 
tin-  a|-j»-ara!iee  .,}'  a  hn_'«-  >  i'\  -ta!  broken  ;  and  thi-  i-  -o  ofi.  n  the 
c.T-e  in  Atti'-t  that  -.iie  .an  gu* --  jiretty  nearlv  at  »-ight  \\heth.r 


ISLANDS    OF    Till:    SIIIHK.  311 

a  range  is  of  the;  old  crystalline  rocks  or  not.  The  TWassus, 
though  not  an  oil-bearing  palm,  is  ;i  useful  tree.  Tin-  fibrous 
j)iil|),  round  the  large  nuts,  is  of  a  sweet,  I'rnitv  ta.-tc,  and  is 
eaten  bv  men  and  elephants.  The  natives  bury  the  nuts  until 
the  kernels  begin  to  sprout  ;  when  dug  up  and  broken,  the  in- 
*ide  resembles  coarse  potatoes,  an<l  is  pri/.rd  in  times  of  yean-itv 
as  nutritious  food.  During  .several  mouths  of  the  year  palm- 
wine,  or  ttiira,  is  obtained  in  large  <piaut it ies  ;  when  fre-h,  it  is  a 
pleasant  drink,  somewhat  like,  champagne,  and  not  at  all  intoxi- 
cating; though,  after  standing  a  few  hours,  it  becomes  highlv  >». 
Sticks,  a  foot  long,  are  driven  into  notches  in  the  hard  oiit-ide 
of  the  tree — the  inside  being  soft  or  hollow — to  serve  as  a  ladder; 
the  top  of  the  fruit-shoot  is  cut  oil',  and  the  sap,  pouring  out  :ir 
the  fresh  wound,  is  caught  in  an  earthen  pot,  which  is  hung  at 
the  point.  A  thin  sliee  is  taken  oil'  the  end,  to  open  the  poivs 
and  make  the  juice  flow  everv  time  the  owner  ascends  to  cmptv 
the  pot.  Temporary  huts  are  erected  in  the  forest, and  men  and 
bovs  remain  bv  their  respective  trees  dav  and  ni_dit  ;  the  nut-, 
fish,  and  wine  being  their  sole  food.  The  Portuguese  us"  the 
palm-wine  as  yeast,  and  it  makes  bread  so  light  that  it  melts  in 
the  mouth  like  froth. 

''Above  the  palm-trees,  a  suceessiou  of  rich,  low  islands  stud 
the  river.  Manv  of  them  are  cultivated  and  grow  mai/e  at  all 
times  of  the  year,  for  we  saw  it  in  different  stages  of  growth  : 
some  patches  ripe,  and  others  half-grown,  or  just  sprouting  (i"t 
of  the  ground.  The  shores  are  adorned  with  rows  of  banana- 
trees,  and  the  fruit  is  abundant  and  cheap.  Manv  of  the  reedv 
banks  are  so  intertwined  with  convolvulus,  and  other  creepers, 
as  to  be  absolutely  impenetrable.  Thev  are  beautiful  to  the 
eve,  a  smooth  wall  of  living  green  rising  out  of'  the  ervstal 
water,  and  adorned  with  lovely  flowers;  but  so  dens*1  that,  if 
capsized  in  the  water,  one  could  scarce! v  pass  through  to  land." 

The  village  of  Mankokwe,  an  unhappy,  suspicious  man,  who 
divides  the  paramount  dignity  of  the  sect  ion  with  Tin^ane,  offered- 
no  hospitality,  and,  sailing  bv  the  confluence  of  the  Moanza,  the 
expedition  east  anchor  opposite  the  village  of  ('hibisa.  This 
village,  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river,  crowns  a  perpendicular 
bluff  of  stratified  sand,  quite  sixty  feet  high,  and  covered  with 
verdure.  From  this  elevated  spot  the  view  comm  inded  extorted 


312  THK    (  HIKF    CIUHISA. 

exclamations  nf  delight  from  the  mn»t  imlilTtTcnt.  Tho  noble 
rivrr  winding  awav  toward  tin-  X;iinl>i>i,  twining  alxmt  hnndrvds 
(•t  verdant  i-laml-.  laving  i_ri'ntlv  the  ^ra--v  hank-,  ami  catching 
tin1  -hado\\-  of  the  -pl.-ndid  tree- ;  thevallev,  al-o,  eo\vivd  \vitli 
its  marvellous  \\i-alth  nf  f.>re-t  ^r«\vth  ami  animal  life;  ami 
fartluT  awav  mountain  on  mountain  ;  then,  looking  northward, 
their  vi-i'in  IcajM-d  aloti^  the  -ummit*  nf  the  numerous  ranges 
of  tli.-  highland-. 

Tin-  ••liii-f  of  tin-  villa^-  wa~  a  n-markalilv  -hrcwd  man,  ami 
thf  ni"-t  intellip'iit  rliii-t',  l>v  far,  in  this  ijuart«'r.  A  jjrrat  <l»-al 
f»f  fi^litiiiv;  liail  fa  Hi  n  to  his  lot,  lir  s:ii«l  ;  l)iit  it  was  alwavs  .it  her-; 
who  l».  _'an  ;  he  wa-  invariably  in  tin-  ri'jht,  aicl  thev  al»nc  \\crc 
to  l>la:n-  .  I  !••  ua«,  iiioivnvi-r.  a  firm  In-H.-vi-r  in  the  di\'ine  ri'_rht 
of  km1.:-.  He  \\a~  an  onlinarv  man,  he  xu<l,  when  ln^  father 
diet!  and  1-  It  linn  the  ehi<  ltain-hi|»  ;  l>ut  din-etlv  he  ^ucccttlcd  to 
the  hi^h  <'lli'-c  h,-  \\:t~  < •, .\\~>-\, .11-  <.('  ]><>\v.  r  [ia--in_r  into  hi-  he;i<1 
aii-1  <l'>\va  lii-  hae!v  ;  h.-  f  It  it  enter,  ami  kne\v  that  lie  wa-  a 
chief',  rloiliri]  \\ith  authority  and  p.  — «--etl  nl'  \\i-«i"i;i;  and 
JH-.,J,I,.  tli, -i  l..-_'an  t"  fear  and  rrvrrrmv  him.  He  m.-nti..n«  d 
this  ;i,  .,!).•  would  a  tii'-t  of  natural  hi-tory,  any  tloijlit  l»in^ 
ciiiite  out  . if  the  (jii'-» i"ii.  Hi-  [Miijilr,  t"o.  iM-lii-vit]  in  him,  lor 
th'-v  ltath.il  in  the  riv.-r  with-nit  the  -li-ht.-t  t'ear  "t"  eroeo.lile-, 
the  ehi.-t'  havin_'  jtlaecd  a  powerful  im-dieini-  there  \\hidi  j»ro- 
tei-j.-d  tliem.  !!'•  -'lit  out  t  u  o  in.  ii  to  invite  1  >r.  I/iyin^-tonn 
to  drink  l»  •  r  with  him  ;  Imt  the  -"trainer  was  atiove  their  coin- 
jir'-h«-n-:ou,  th'-v  e,,uld  not  euiifront  -ueh  an  apparition,  and, 
-h"iitin_r  th''  invitation  from  a  di-tanei-,  they  abandoned  tip  ir 
eano.~  and  mad'  t"f  the  -hore  \\ith  amn-nrj  earne-tm--. 

Tip-  ni"  t  e.,n-pieii,,u-  indtl-try  ot'th«-  plaee  \va-  the  mannfae- 
tMr-  "t  eii!t..ii  a'->-"!'din_r  to  the  primitive  method-,  uhi'-h  havf 
m  lint  nii'-d  t  !i.-ir  dominion  ^randl  '.while  ot  her  land-  have  wit  - 
ii'  — '  1  an  -ntire  revolution  in  -'.eh  matter-.  I  h-  ni'  n  rm^ht 
(>•  -••••ii  -:'  t  ;M_'  il  •<  .nt  l»M-il  v  eli-aiiin/,  -<>rt  in_r,  -pmniirj  and  weav- 
ing. It  -A  i-  ;h'!i.  a-  al'.\av-,  a-v  t"  o!,-.rv  th>-  intllli'tiee  »:\ 

th<-    | f   an     int'-l!i'_"'iit    and    t  h'Hi_'ht  t'nl    ehief:  th.-y  w.-ri- 

tii"!-.-  -•!,.!•..•;-  :t'id  fri'-mllv  and  mop-  readiK  njipn^-iated  th«» 
-jiirif  arc  1  |>!an-  of  tic-  \s  !;;!••  ni'-n. 

"  I ..  i\  ;•!..'  !  IP-  V.--.-1    i'pp..-ife    ( 'hilii-a'-  villa^-',   I>r-.   I.iv'r 
it.'ii.-  and    Kiik.  and  a  innn!"r  of  the  Mak-.l,,],,.  -titrted  on   f-o! 


A    SERIOUS    QUESTION.  31 ;{ 

for  I^ike  Shinva.  They  travelled  in  a  northerly  direction  over 
a  mountainous  country.  The  people  were  far  from  Iwing  well- 
disposed  to  them,  and  some  of  their  guides  tried  to  mislead 
them,  and  could  not  l>e  trusted.  Masakasa,  a  Makololo  head 
man,  overheard  some  remarks  which  satisfied  him  that  the  guide 
wo*  leading  them  into  trouble.  lie  was  quiet  till  they  reached 
a  lonely  spot,  when  he  came  up  to  Dr.  Livingstone,  and  said, 
'That  fellow  is  had,  he  is  taking  us  into  mischief;  my  spear  is 
sharp,  and  there  is  no  one  here,  shall  I  cost  him  into  the  long 
grass?'  Had  the  doctor  given  the  slightest  token  of  assent,  or 
even  kept  silence,  never  more  would  any  one  have  been  led  by 
that  guide,  for  in  a  twinkling  he  would  have  been  where  'the 
wicked  cease  from  troubling.'  It  was  afterwards  found  that  in 
this  case  there  was  no  treachery  at  all  ;  but  a  want  of  knowledge 
on  their  part  of  the  language  and  of  the  country.  They  asked 
to  be  led  to  '  Xyanja  Mukulu,'  or  Great  Lake,  meaning  by  this 
Lake  Shirwa;  and  the  guide  took  them  round  a  terribly  rough 
piece  of  mountainous  country,  gradually  edging  away  towards 
a  long  marsh,  which  from  the  numbers  of  those  animals  we  had 
seen  there  we  had  called  the  Elephant  Marsh,  but  which  was 
really  the  place  known  to  him  by  the  name  'Xyanja  Mukulu,1 
or  Great  Lake.  Xyanja,  or  Xyanza,  means,  generally,  a  marsh, 
lake,  river,  or  even  a  mere  rivulet. 

"The  party  pushed  on  at  last  without  guides,  or  only  with 
crazv  ones;  for,  oddly  enough,  thev  were  often  under  great  ob- 
ligations to  the  madmen  of  the  different  villages;  one  of  these 
honored  them,  as  they  slept  in  the  open  air,  bv  dancing  and 
singing  at  their  feet  the  whole  night.  These  poor  fellows  svm- 
pathi/ed  with  the  explorers,  probably  in  the  belief  that  they 
belonged  to  their  own  class  ;  and,  uninfluenced  by  the  ircneral 
opinion  of  their  countrymen,  they  really  pitied,  and  took  kindly 
to  the  strangers,  and  often  guided  them  faithfully  from  pi  aw 
to  place,  when  no  sane  man  could  be  hired  for  love  or  money. 

"  The  perseverance  of  the  partv  was  final Iv  crowned  with  suc- 
cess ;  for  on  the  18th  of  April  they  discovered  Lake  Shirwa,  a 
considerable  body  of  bitter  water,  containing  leeches,  fish,  croco- 
diles and  hippopotami.  From  having  probably  no  outlet,  the 
water  is  slightly  brackish,  and  it  appears  to  be  deep,  with 
islands  like  hills  rising  out  of  it.  Their  point  of  view  was  at 
19 


:iU  LAKE   SHIKWA. 

the  l*ase  of  Mount  Prirniti  or  Mopeii-j>eu,  on  its  S.  S.  \V.  side. 
Thence  the  pro-jHvt  northwards  ended  in  a  sea  horizon  with 
two  tmmll  island-  in  the  di-tancc — a  larger  one,  resembling  a 
hill-top  and  covered  with  tree-,  n>-e  more  in  the  ton-ground. 
Ilange*  of  hills  appeared  on  the  ea.-t  :  and  on  the  west  stotnl 
Mount  ( 'hikala,  which  -eem-  to  !»•  conwt'twl  with  the  great 
mountain  ma--  <-alled  /omha. 

"The  -hon,  near  which  thev  -pent  two  nights,  wa-  covered 
with  rer<L-  and  papvru-.  \Vi-hiii'_r  tonhtain  the  latitude  l»v  the 
natural  horizon,  th'-v  wad-'d  into  the  water  -ome  distance 
toward-  what  wa-  report-' 1  to  l>e  a  -and-hank,  luit  were  so 
a--anlte<l  hv  leeche-.  thev  were  t'ain  to  retreat  ;  and  a  woman 
told  them  that  in  enticing  them  into  the  water  the  men  onlv 
wanted  to  kill  them.  The  information  gathered  was  that  this 
lake  was  nothing  in  -i/.e  coin  pant  1  t.i  another  in  the  north,  from 
which  it  i-  -eparated  l»v  onlv  a  tongue  of  land.  The  northern 
end  of  Shirwa  ha-  not  Keen  -ecu,  though  it  ha-  been  passed  ; 
the  length  of  the  lake  mav  prohahlv  !»•  -ixtv  or  eighty  mihs, 
and  ahoiit  twentv  hroad.  The  height  ;il>ovc  the  -ca  i-  eighteen 
hundreo!  fret,  and  the  ta-te  of  the  water  i-  like  a  weak  -olntioii 
•if  KjHom  -alt.-.  The  eoiintrv  around  i-  verv  heautifnl,  and 
clot  hed  with  rich  vegetation  ;  and  the  wave-,  at  the  t  i  me  thev  were 
there,  breaking  and  foaming  over  a  rock  «n  the  southeastern 
-id  P.  added  to  the  Iniititv  of  the  picture.  Kx«T«tlingly  loft  v  moun- 
tain-. p«-rhap-  ei'_dit  thousand  ti'-t  aliove  the  -ea-levrl,  -tand  near 

the  eastern  -hore.  \\  hen  their  loftV  -teep--lded  -Uillllllt-  a|»j»e;ir, 
-Mine  alniVe,  -nine  KeloW  the  c|(»l|d-,  the  -eelle  isgnilld.  This 

ran-/e  i-  called  Milanje;  mi  the  wc-t  -land-  Mount  /oinlia,  seven 
thoii-and  |i-et  in  height,  and  -ome  twentv  mill's  long.' 

Th.ir    olijecj     lieiii'j    rather    to    -jam    the    confidence    ot    the 

] pie     l.V    decree-,    «hall      to     e\plo|-e,    thev     eon-idercd      that      theV 

had  advaneed  1'ir  enough  int-i  tin-  ednntrv  fir  one  trip  ;  and 
!.e!i,  \lnj-  that  thevc..uld  -eeiire  thijr  end  li\  a  ri-petition  of 
tii-'ir  vi-it,  a-  the\-  had  d-.ne  on  the  Shire,  they  decided  (••  re 
turn  '"  the  \-----l  at  I  >al,ananioi.  •  i-land  ;  luit,  in-tead  of'ri-tnrn- 
;IIL'  o\  the  \\a\  th'V  came.  th-\'  pa--«-d  dnwn  -oiithward"  elo-e 
r.v  Mount  (  hirad/nrn,  auioir/  the  ri-lative^  ot  ( 'hihi-a,  and 

then'-e    do\\  n     to    the    S),  I,-,.. 

When    thev    r- a-  h'-d     the    -hip,    it     veined     important,    In -fop' 


START    FOR    I.AKK    NYASSA.  31") 

attempting  further  explorations,  to  return  to  Tete  for  additional 
supplies,  and  it  was  the  'JHth  of  August  before  they  left  their 
craft  under  tin- shadow  of  ('hil)isa's  village  and  set  out  in  search 
of  the  far-tinned  Lake  Xva-sa.  It  may  not  have  been  necessary 
for  as  inativ  as  forty-two  men  to  -el  forth  on  such  a  journey; 
but  the  advantage  of  numbers  and  guns,  in  the  impres.-ions  they 
convey  of  strength,  and  the  Ics-ons  they  suggest  of  kindness  and 
politeness,  more  than  makes  up  for  the  greater  trouble  and 
expense  of  their  support.  And  it  was  particularly  important, 
on  this  journey,  that  there  should  he  a  reasonable  display  of 
strength,  because  their  path  lav  across  the  territory  of  most 
unfriendly  people,  with  whom  it  was  of  the  greatest  importance 
that  there  Ix?  no  conflict. 

Following  the  course  of  a  beautifully-flowing  stream,  in  a 
northeasterly  direction  across  the  valley,  they  passed  manv  gar- 
dens where  cotton  was  growing  luxuriantly.  An  hour's  march 
brought  them  to  the  foot  of  the  Manganja  hills,  up  which  their 
toilsome  road  must  lead  them.  The  vegetation  changed  as  they 
ascended;  new  trees  and  plants  received  them;  and,  as  they 
climbed  higher  and  higher,  a  wider  and  more  charming  land- 
scape stretched  away  behind  them.  Looking  back  from  an 
elevation  of  a  thousand  feet,  the  eve  could  take  in  the  whole  of 
a  charming  valley,  with  its  silverv  stream  flowing  in  many 
windings  from  the  shadows  of  the  hills  toward  the  Shire.  The 
Shire  itself  could  be  seen  for  manv  miles  above  and  below  Chi- 
bisa's,  and  the  great  level  country  beyond,  with  its  numerous 
green  woods;  until  the  prospect  wot  and  northwot  ended  on 
the  peaks  of  massive  dome-shaped  mountains  that  far  away 
fringe  the  highlands  of  the  Maravi  country.  On  the  first  of 
the  terraces  of  these  hills  the  party  found  the  village  of  Chi- 
timba,  nestling  in  a  woody  hollow,  and  surrounded  by  the 
characteristic  hedge  of  poisonous  euphorbia,  and  -ui  down  under 
some  fine  trees,  as  strangers  are  wont  to  do,  near  the  entrance 
of  the  village.  A  couple  of  mats  were  spread  for  the  white  men 
to  sit  on  ;  and  the  head  man  brought  a  se^uati,  or  present,  of  a 
small  goat  and  a  basket  of  meal.  The  full  value  in  beads  and 
cotton  cloth  was  handed  to  him  in  return.  lie  measured  the 
cloth,  doubled  it,  and  then  measured  that  ai;ain.  The  beads 
were  scrutinized  ;  he  had  never  seen  beads  of  that  color  before. 


310  MANOANJA    lioVKKNMKNT. 

and  should  like  t<>  eon-ult  with  hi-  comrades  U'forv  accepting 
thorn,  and  thi-,  after  rejM-ated  examinations  and  nun-h  anxious 
talk,  ho  concluded  to  do.  M«al  and  pea-  \\vrv  then  brought 
for  Kile.  A  bri-k  trade  >j>ran^r  up  at  once,  each  bcini;  ea^er  to 
obtain  as  fine  thinu'-  a-  hi-  neighbor,  and  all  were  in  p>od 
humor.  Women  and  u'ii'l-  be^an  to  ponii •!  and  ^rind  meal,  and 
men  and  U>v-  cha-ed  tin-  -cn-amin^  fowl-  o\vr  tin-  village,  until 
thev  ran  tln-m  down.  In  a  tew  hour-  the  market  wa<  coin- 
plelclv  glutted  with  cvcrv  >ort  <>!'  native  food;  th«-  pri'-e-.  ho\v- 
fVi-r,  rap-lv  i't-ll,  a-  th«-\'  <-ould  ea-ilv  eat  what  wa-  ii"I  >«>ld. 

Kvrrv  IKI'.V  and  tin  n,  a-  th-A"  pursue«l  their  \\ay  ulmij;  these 
«p!«-ndid  ran^«-~,  tln-v  pa—it  1  th<-  nati\i-  village-  oo-iipvin^  the 
ino-t  pieturexiuo  situations  and  eominandin^  splendid  views. 
A-  anioii^  th<-  triU-s  ^encrallv  in  AlVi'-a,  the  villa^-  ol'  the 
Man_'a:ija  are  generally  the  p«-ttv  kni'jdi'ni-  o!'  -oini-  head  man, 
and  not  unlp-ijiientlv  a  man  of  >ujM-rior  \«>\\>  r  extends  hi-  -\\ay 
over  -everal  ot'  tho-»-  ab«ut  him.  Mankokwe  \\a-  the  para- 
mount eliii'f  nf  tin-  -on them  portion  of  the  highland-  at  t  lie  t  inn- 
of  I  >r.  Li vin_'-t"iie'-  vi-it- ;  but  while  the  people  aekno\vled'_'ed 
hi-  aiithorit\-,  he  rarelv  collected  the  tribute  due  him,  hein^  a 
In-dotted  man,  who  ^ave  no  thought  to  the  allair-  of  hi- 
dominioii. 

The  Man^anja  are  an  indu.-trioiH  race;  ;m<l  in  addition  to 
working  in  iron,  cotton,  and  ba»ket -making,  thcv  cultivate  the 
-oil  c\!,-M-!Ve!\ •.  All  the  people  of  a  village  turn  out  to  labor 
in  the  tl'-ld-.  It  i<  no  uncommon  tiling  to  -cc  men,  \\(>men  and 
children  hard  at  work,  with  tin1  babv  Ivini;  clo-e  bv  beneath  a 
-hadv  bii-h.  \\hdi  a  lie\v  piec.-  of  \\.M.d!:md  i-  to  be  cleared, 
they  proceed  e\aetlv  a-  farmer-  do  in  America.  The  tree-  are 
cut  <|o\vn  with  their  little  a.\e.  ,,f  -oft  native  iron  ;  trunk-  and 
br.ijn  h.  -  arc  piled  up  and  burnt,  and  the  a-he-  ,-pn  ad  on  the 
-oil.  The  corn  i-  planted  amon^  t  he  -tandiie_r  -t  ump-,  \\hich 
arc  !,•»'•  T,  ,  r,  ,j.  |  f'  ur  [-;,.,  la  i  id  i-  to  be  broiijht  iliulir  cultivation, 
•i-  fii'i'-h  'a'!  jra--  a-  the  lalniri-r  can  eon Veuient  1  \'  lav  hold  of 
j,  ,-,,;!.  ,-,,1  tojejii.-f  and  tied  into  a  knot.  I  !••  th.  n  -t  riL—  hi" 
hoe  r..iin.|  the  tuft,  j,,  -e\er  the  root-,  and  l''a\in.:  ail  -!andin;_', 
pr,  „.,,!,  iin'il  the  -...!,,  ,]e  ^roiiin]  a--uni'--  th>  .ij'j..  iiM!i«-.-  of  a 

field       covered     -,\ifl|       liltle      -||.M-k-      ..f     CoI'll       ill      liaf\e-|.  A       -hol't 

t.ine  !>•!'. re  the  rain-    b-  jm,  the-.-    ^ra--    -ho.-k^    are    e,,!',e|,-,l   jn 


AFRICAN    COTTON.  .'',17 

small  heaps,  covered  with  earth,  and  burnt,  the  ashes  and  burnt 
soil  l>cing  used  to  fertili/c  the  ground.  Large  crojn  of  the 
inapira,  or  Kgvptian  duni  (  Holcim  imryhuiii)  are  raised,  with 
millet,  l>eans  and  groundnuts;  also  patches  of  yams,  rice, 
pumpkins,  euenmbers,  cassava,  sweet  |>otatoes,  tobacco,  an<l 
hemp,  or  bang  ((hnnabix  mitirtt).  Mai/e  is  grown  all  tlie  vear 
round.  Cotton  is  cultivated  at  almost  every  village.  Three 
varieties  of  cotton  have  been  found  in  the.  country,  namely,  two 
foreign  and  one  native.  The  tonje  manga,  or  foreign  cotton, 
the  name  showing  that  it  has  Ix-en  introduced,  is  of  excellent 
quality,  and  considered  at  Manchester  to  be  nearly  equal  to  the 
best  New  (  Means.  It  is  perennial,  but  requires  replanting  once 
in  three  years.  A  considerable  amount  of  this  variety  is  grown 
in  the  I'pper  and  Lower  Shire  vallevs.  Kverv  fiunilv  of  anv 
importance  owns  a  cotton  patch,  which,  from  the  entire  absence 
of  weeds,  seemed  to  be  carefully  cultivated.  Most  were  small, 
none  seen  on  this  journey  exceeding  half  an  acre;  but  on  the 
former  trip  some  were  observed  of  more  than  twice  that  sixe. 

The  tonje  cadja,  or  indigenous  cotton,  is  of  shorter  staple,  and 
feels  in  the  hand  like  wool.  This  kind  has  to  be  planted  everv 
season,  in  the  highlands;  yet,  because  it  makes  stronger  cloth, 
manv  of  the  people  prefer  it  to  the  foreign  cotton  ;  the  third 
variety  is  not  found  here.  It  was  remarked  to  a  number  of 
men  near  the  Shire  lakelet,  a  little  farther  on  towards  Nvassa, 
"  You  should  plant  plenty  of  cotton,  and  probably  the  Kngli.-h 
will  come  and  buy  it."  "Truly,"  replied  a  far-travelled  Babisa 
trader  to  his  fellows,  "the  country  is  full  of  cotton,  and  if  the>e 
people  come  to  bnv  they  will  enrich  us."  And  it  is  encourag- 
ing to  know  that  the  observation  of  the  partv  inclined  them  to 
give  much  credit  to  his  statement.  Though  it  may  seem  like 
an  idle  flourish,  they  hardly  ever  entered  a  village  without 
finding  a  number  of  men  cleaning,  spinning  and  weaving.  Ii 
is  first  carefully  separated  from  the  seed  by  the  lingers,  or  by 
an  iron  roller,  on  a  little  block-  of  wood,  and  rove  out  into  long 
soft  bands  without  twist.  Then  it  receives  its  first  twi>t  on  the 
spindle,  and  becomes  about  the  thickness  of  coarse  candlewick  ; 
after  being  taken  ofVand  wound  into  a  large  ball,  it  is  given  the 
final  hard  twist,  and  spun  into  a  linn  cop  on  the  spindle  again: 
all  the  processes  bein<£  painfully  slow. 


31  S  MAXGAXJA    1XWSTKIKS. 

Iron  ore  is  dug  out  of  the  hills,  ami  it.-  manufacture  is  the 
staple*  trade  of  tin-  Mtutheru  highlands.  Kach  village  has  its 
binelting-house,  iu  wharvoal-burners,  and  blacksmiths.  Thcv 
make  gi>od  ax«-,  -jM-ar-,  needle.-,  arrow-heads,  br.nvleU  and 
anklets,  which,  considering  the  entire  ab-cn<v  uf  niachinerv,  are 
sold  at  surprisingly  low  rate-;  a  lux-  over  two  jiotnuLs  in  weight 
i-  exchange*!  for  calico  of'  about  tlic  value  of  fonrjHMiee.  h 
villages  near  I.ake  Shirwa  and  eUewheiv,  the  inhabitants  enter 
prettv  largely  into  the  manufacture  of  crockery,  or  pottcrv, 
making  l»v  hand  all  -ort-  of  cooking,  water,  ancl  grain  pots, 
which  they  ornament  with  plumbago  found  in  the  lulls.  Some 
find  employment  in  weaving  in-at  ba-ket.s  from  -plit  bamlwMH, 
and  other-  collect  the  fibre  of  the  bua/e,  which  grows  abun- 
dantly on  the  hill-,  and  make  it  into  (i.-h-nets.  Thc-c  they 
either  u-e  thcm>elve>,  or  exchange  with  the  fishermen  on  the 
riv«-r  or  lake-  for  dried  li-h  and  -alt.  A  ^ivat  deal  of  native 
trad'-  i-  i-irrieil  on  between  the  village.,,  bv  mean-  of  barter  in 
tobacco,  .-alt,  dried  ti-h,  -Km-  and  ir>n. 

The  Manganja  \\eie  found  to  l»e  genenilly  a  plea-ant  jx-ople, 
and  happily  lor  .-orne  iiiciulxTs  of  the  exjx^lition  tlie\  were  al>le 
alnio-t  to  forget  «-olor  m  a— •••laiuiiT  with  them.  There  were 
jM-i'iiliarit !••-,  howeyer,  which  in  tin-  -ocietv  of  civili/.cd  com- 
inunities  would  constitute  a  distinction  alnio>t  a-  marked  a- 
i-olor  it.-elt';  fashion*  control  communities  more  un<iomj>romi>- 
ingly  than  natural  condition-,  it  po-v-ible,  and  the  fashions  which 
di-t in^ui-hed  the  Manganja  wotihl  hardlv  find  a  follower  even 
aruoii'j  the  nio-t  ea-jer  hunter-  t»f  uovchy.  There  were  the  bul- 
fal'H--'  horn-  and  tin-  rliinoc.-ro-  horn-  \\hicji  were  found  el-e- 
\v!iei-'- ;  -Mine  al-o  had  their  wool  hanging  alxmt  their  shoulders, 
v.!ii!'-  oth.-r-  -till  apjM-an-d  -li^rn  entirelv,  and,  true  to  their 
ii'itun--,  there  wa-  an  illimitable  indul'jciiii-  in  bo<hlv  ornament  ; 
tli'V  idornei]  I  liein-el  %•<->  nio-t  ext  ra\  a_r:int  !\  ,  \\earmg  ring-  on 
!  ',•  ;r  lin/i'i--  and  thumb-,  be-ide~  throatlct-,  bracelet-,  :md  anklef.s 
•  >'.  br.i--,  eupjM-r,  or  iron.  I  Jut  t  lie  mo-t  wmidi-rlul  of  .  iriiamenL-*, 
i;  -u'-li  it  m. iv  !-•  ealliil,  i-  the  pel.  I.  ,  or  upper-lip  ring  of  the 
v.'.ni'-n.  Me  inidd!.'  of'  the  up|»«-r  lip  ot'  il,.  ^irl-  i-  piep-itl 
e'.r-.-  to  th'-  -•  ptum  "!  tin  iio-e,  :ind  a  -mall  pin  m-erted  to  pre- 
\-nf  ili'-  puii'-ture  c!.,-m^  up.  .\tti-r  it  ha-  li-al',j,  the  jun  i., 
t.i'i.-  n  out  and  -j  !ar_"  r  "tie  i-  pri-^-e<l  into  it-  plaee,  ;uid  .-o  on 


A    SINGULAR    FANCY.  119 

Ruccessively  for  weeks,  aiul  months,  and  years.  The  j»r«M-<-.-.-.  of 
increasing  the  size  of  the  lip  goes  on  till  its  capacity  been  me.-  •... 
great  that  a  ring  of  two  inches  diameter  can  lie  introduced  with 
ease.  All  the  highland  women  wear  the  pclelc  and  it  is  com- 

lj  I  ' 

mon  on  the  tapper  and  Lower  Shire;  and  everywhere  it  is  a< - 
counted  a  matchless  charm.  The  lair  belle  of  our  great  cities 
clings  not  more  fondly  to  the  sparkling  jewel  on  her  breaM,  or 
the  pendants  of  pearl  which  adorn  her  ears,  than  do  these  Afri- 
can beauties  (?)  maintain  the  excellence  of  the  pelele.  '1  hey 
need  no  better  justification  of  their  custom  than  "it  is  fashion;' 
and  why  should  they  go  further  than  that?  can  civilization  >ug- 
gest  the  modification  of  a  custom  which  is  a  matter  of  established 
fiishion  ?  Will  not  even  the  church  of  to-day  admit  that  tin- 
fact  of  the  fashion  answers  all  objections  to  anything  ?  A  bright 
idea  struck  Livingstone  on  observing  the  younger  women  con- 
stantly twaddling  this  queer  pendant  with  their  tongues,  and  it 
is  a  question  whether,  if  the  idea  is  "to  find  safe  employment 
for  that  little  member,"  it  mav  not  receive  the  indorsement  of 
the  gentlemen  of  the  land  we  live  in.  The  frequent  mention 
of  beer,  among  the  abundant  commodities  of  the  country,  may 
have  suggested  the  suspicion  alreadv,  that  the  Manganja  would 
hardly  pay  a  hundred  cents  on  the  dollar  as  temperance  candi- 
dates for  our  respect.  Dr.  Livingstone  remarked  to  his  associates 
that  he  had  not  seen  so  much  drunkenness  during  sixteen  years 
in  Africa  as  he  saw  among  these  people.  As  they  cros.-ed,  the 
partv  sometimes  found  whole  villages  revelling  in  their  favorite 
indulgence,  and  the  drinking,  drumming  and  dancing,  with 
which  they  insist  on  hailing  the  morning,  would  put  the  most 
accomplished  priests  of  Bacchus  to  the  blush.  The  party  entered 
a  village  one  afternoon  where  cvcrv  man  had  fallen  in  the  action  ; 

~  . 

not  one  was  to  be  seen,  and  the  onlv  indications  of  life  were  the 
few  half-conscious  women  who  were  still  by  the  beer-pots  under 
a  tree.  There,  as  here,  the  serpent  excites  every  man  to  the 
extravagance  of  his  ruling  passion,  and  thev  have  topers,  talka- 
tive, boisterous,  silly,  stupid  and  pugnacious.  One  of  thesv 
pugnacious  specimens  on  one  occasion  attempting  to  arre.-t  the 
party  in  their  journey,  subjected  himself  to  a  verv  pointed  lesson 
on  politeness  bv  one  of  the  Makololo  who  had  as  little  con- 
science about  using  his  spear  on  a  man  as  on  an  ox.  The  bev- 


sri'KILSTITION    AND    KKI.HJIOX. 


era^e  on  \vliidi  thoe  jKxir  people  were  debauching  themselves 
so  ;<idly  W;L-  tbuud  really  a  plcaxint  and  refrohin^  article,  and 
one  which  could  hardly  l>e  su.-jHvted  of  -ueh  dreadful  etlcet.-,  to 
the  traveller  who  onlv  u.-ed  it  moderately. 

The  juitple  are  attached  to  their  home.-,  and  there  will  nirely 
IK-  found  a  roving  disposition  amon^  them.  The  Makololo 
were  a-toni-hed  that  even  a  prominent  ehief  should  never  have 
a  "  lit  «>t'  travelling  come  over  him  :  should  never  have  a  de-ire 
to  s'-e  other  land-  and  people."  Thev  -it  within  their  hed^e  of 
euphorbia  :L-  -<-<-urelv  a-  within  a  wall  of  -tone,  and  often  live 
tn  v.  TV  <jn-at  a  ire  ;  and,  to  the  ^reat  horror  of  the  livdropathi.-ts, 
tJiev  (-imi'it  attribute  a  .-iii^'le  dav  <>f  tln-ir  a^e-  to  the  vieldin-j; 
element  ;  they  pertiinn  no  ablution-;  mn-  old  man  thought  he 
could  rniienilifr  lia\'iiiLT  "  w;t-hed  om-r  in  hi~  life,  but  -o  lon^ 
l>«'tor«'  that  he  had  f  >rL.r"tt«Mi  how  it  felt," 

SujM-r-tition,  of'  eoiir-e,  had  it.-  pla«v  in  the  li\e-  of  the  Man- 
puija.  I  he  mua\f  \\a-  then1,  ton,  tin-  umt)m|>romi-iii)j  jiitl'_r<' 
In-twi-*  11  ni'  n  in  all  thi-ir  di.-piltes  ;  il  wa-  dcjiciidcii  <m  to  dctc.-t 
the  L'H'liv  parts',  and  -ii>'h  \\a-  the  universd  ettnfidenit1  in  the 
eorri-i-f  ni-—.  ot  it-  di'i'i-ion-  that  innocent  complainant-  did  not 
he>ifate  a  nioni'-nt  in  ri-ortnrj  to  it-  mv-termn-  bar.  Hut  though 
thev  -o  ea^erlv  appeal  to  the  dri-adlnl  poi-on  in  defence  ot'  their 
character-,  tin-  L'i'ave  i~  o\-cr-had'iwed  bv  tin-  darkness  and  my.— 
t«-r%-  \\hich  evervwhere  .-adden-  -o  bitterlv  the  wailing  of  IK-- 
r>a\cd  i'jnonnr-e.  "  \\  e  live  onlv  a  few  dav-  here/1  -aid  old 
(  'liin-un-e,  "  but  we  live  a_rain  after  death;  we  do  not  know 
uli'-p,  .,r  in  uliat  condition,  or  \sith  what  companions,  t'oi  the 
de.-td  ne\  ••  r  nturn  to  tell  n-.  Son  id  in  ie-  t  he  dead  do  eoine  1  tack, 
and  :i|>;>e:ir  to  n-  in  dream-  :  but  thev  ne\er  .-peak  nor  tell  u- 
v.  h'-re  thev  have  <joiie,  nor  h"\s  tln-v  tan-. 

Tii.  -plendid  eoimtrv  ot'  M:in_ranja  nlli-riil  ii"ii«'  of  tho-e  ;i«l- 
\entiiri--  with  I'TcH-i.  .11-  IMM-I.-  \\hich  -"tiie  re.id.  r-  are  on  the 

i.    .i!jr    I'.r    ill    :t.'c.  .Illit-    of'    ~l|cll     e\  |>.i|  It  ion-,    dllt    the     el  111  I'l  1  1  1  1  1  if 

land-  HJM-    .-ind    terrile    garden-,  were  objii-t-  of'  greater    inter.  -t. 
1  Ie  •.    'A  •  [•••  a  \\eeK   in  c]-n--in_'  thi"»e  hill-. 

Th.  itn|M.--ibility  ••»'  earr\  in/  their  IM,:II  |.\  the  cataract.-. 
•Ahi'h  I"  /in  a  !•  '.\  mile-  tVoia  '  'hiln-a'-  village,  had  I'OMIJM  lied 
:!e  'n  t"  (•'!••  /'i  fie-  m-ife  di-t  in  _'iii-!i'  d  m..ile  .,('  t  ravelliiiL'  >"r  a 
tiiiie  ;  l,i  it  tin  \  \-,  •  i  e  ci-rtainlv  \M  !  1  phtiMi]  \\  it  h  tin  ehaii'/e  \\  hn-h 


"IT  is  ixnv.s  IN  A  IKX>K."  :;;jl 

unfolded  to  them  the  grand  panorama  of  tropical  nature,  which 
invited  their  unwearying  ga/e. 

The  cataracts  which  we  have  mentioned  had  been  cliscovcrwl 
sonic  time  before,  and  distinguished  l>\-  the  honorable  name  of 
t!ie  generous  friend  of  geographical  science,  who  had  also  proven 
himself  a  true  friend  of  I)r.  Livingstone.  Murehi.-ou's  cataracts 
extend  through  thirty-live  miles  of  latitude,  having  in  thisdistanee 
about  twelve  hundred  feet  fall.  Above  the  cataracts,  as  below, 
the  river  was  found  broad  and  easilv  navigable,  and  guided  the 
explorers  in  their  search  for  the  great  lake.  It  is  hardlv  to  1*> 
expected  that  even  so  short  a  journey  could  be  performed  with- 
out the  discouragements  which  men  ever  lavi.-h  on  new  enter- 
prises, and  the  African  was  not  behind  the  foremost  man  on  the 
list  in  the  readiness  with  which  he  finds  the  explanation  of  (.-very 
momentous  undertaking  in  the  folly  of' its  leader.  ( )ne  of  these 
pasts  joined  himself  to  the  purtv  in  the  I'pper  Shire  vallev,  and 
annoyed  them  by  telling  the  residents  that  "all  of  these  men" 
had  irantle.rctly  "  gone  mad,"  and  knew  not  where  thev  were 
going.  There  was  a  more  serious  discouragement,  however,  in 
the  assurance  which  thev  received  at  the  village  of  Muana 
Moesa  that  the  lake  had  never  been  heard  of  there,  but  that  the 
river  stretched  on  as  they  saw  it  the  distance  of  two  months, 
and  then  came  out  from  between  rocks  which  towered  almo.-t  to 
the  skies.  The  Makololo  looked  blank  when  thev  heard  this, 
and  said,  <%  Let  us  go  back  to  the  ship;  it  is  of'  no  u<e  trving  to 
find  the  lake."  ''  \\  e  shall  go  and  see  those  wonderful  rocks 
at  anv  rate,"  said  the  doctor.  "And  when  you  see  them."  re- 
plied Masakasa,  "  vou  will  just  want  to  see  something  else." 
'•  Uut  there  /x  a  lake,"  rejoined  Ma.sikasa,  "  for  all  their  denv- 
ing  it,  for  it  is  down  in  a  book."  Masakasa,  havinir  unbounded 
faith  in  whatever  was  in  a  book,  went  and  scolded  the  natives 
for  telling  him  an  untruth.  "There  is  a  lake."  said  he.  "tor 
how  could  the  white  men  know  about  it  in  a  book  if'  it  did  not 
exist  ?  " 

Such  uncalled-for  attempts  at  deception  miu'ht  have  been  as 
provoking  to  I>r.  Livingstone'  as  thev  were  to  his  Makololo.  but 
he  had  thought  more  about  human  nature  than  thev,  and  could 
more  easilv  understand  and  more  readilv  pitv  such  exhibitions 
among  people  so  untaught.  It  is  lamentable  that  the  grandest 


322  PIS<X>VKKY    OF    NV.V-S.V. 

undertakings  must  l>e  accomplished  nvi-r  the  opjxwition  of  the 
vcrv  jH-ople  who  an-  to  !><•  tin-  rucipii'tib*  of  its  richest  l>enefits. 
The  perversity  of  human  nature  invites  onr  compassion;  it  on^ht 
not  to  provoke  «>nr  impatieiuv,  or  weaken  our  resolutions.  I,iv- 
iiiijstone  and  hi-  partv  prvssul  on  ami  di.seovertxl  Lake  Nvassa, 
a  little  l»eforc  IKM.M  (.11  the  Ib'th  of  SeptcmlxT,  lS~>!»,  ahoiit  two 
month-  ln-fire  the  enicrpri-inLT  Or.  Ko-cher  reached  it-  northern 
••ml.  The  -otuhern  extremity  "f  tin-  lake  wa.-  found  to  he  in 
1-1  U-V  -oiith  latitude,  and  •"•">  •"•"'  e;t-t  longitude.  The  valley 
wa-  alxnit  twelve  miles  wide,  and  ran^ts  of  hills  extent!  ulon^ 
Ixilh  -id<-  ol'thr  lake.  It  wa-  imt  tlicir  policy  t<>  continue  lont; 
at  tin-  lak<-,  U-can-c  they  had  found  that  repeated  vi.-its  did  more 
toward  aliasing  the  -ii-picimi-  of  the  native-  and  enptjjinj;  their 

C-onfldeiiei'.        The  lit!  le  time  that  theV  Were  there  was  litll'4  enough 

to  reveal  the  fact  that  they  lia<h  reached  <>ne  ..('  the  <_'ivat  -lave- 
j>ath-  troin  the  interior.  They  met  a  party  headed  hv  Aral>-.  a 
villaniiii--liM>kin<^  -ei,  vvhoM1  whole  demeanor  indicated  their 
<-ipacity  fir  th«»-e  de«-d-  ()f  cruelty  which  are  inseparably  con- 
ne<-ted  with  (hi-  revolting  lui-ine--. 

In  turning  their  -tep-  a^ain  t<>  their  -hi|i,  the  mctulxTS  of  th»" 
ex  pei  lit  MI  i  agreed  with  I  >r.  Living- tone  that,  except  the  cataract.-, 
then*  wa.-  nothini;  in  the  \\av  «'t  tree  water  t ran-purtatmn  from 
the  -'-;i  to  the  'jn-at  lake,  and  they  were  carne-t  m  their  appeal 
t-i  the  home  Lr,, v.-rniiient  |'..r  a  In.at  (i,  l.t-  laiinche<l  i.n  the  I'ppcr 
Shire,  to  ply  alon^  that  jmrtinn  of  the  ri\er  and  al<m-j  the  lake. 
They  (i  It  confident  that  a  -in^h1  >teainer  on  the  lake  would  d<> 
ni'ii-i  than  an\  other  -iirjle  a_r' -ney  in  impre.--mij  the  poiple 
1'iyoraliU',  and  in  ehcckin^  the  -lavc-trade  which  had  il>  LTivat 
er.  i--inir  place-  at  dilli-i'ent  point-  on  the  river  and  lake.  Killed 
\vith  the  inspiration  of  tln-c  nolilc-  :t-pinitions  and  re|oicmi;  in 
th'-  hop.-  ti,  th<  ir  reali/at ion,  th'-v  ha-lciiiil  -niithward,  and  re- 
join-'l  tii'-ir  partv  at  ('hilii-a'-  on  t  In-  •',(  h  ,,f  (  )etol  ••  -r.  after  a 
land  |-  MI  lie  \'  ' .(  f'  «rl  %'  da\  -. 

I  i "!  i  ' 'liilii-a,  I  >t  .  Kirk  and  Mr.  llae,  the  engineer,  nndcr- 
t'  H  ,|,  t.,  i  (•"-  -  f  !n-  i -i it iiit rv  and  m«-«-t  t  In  ii~  friend-  a-_ram  at  I  etc. 
'lip  |M-  i_"  d"\\  n  th'  -Ir- amua-  tilll  of -neli  mournful  inlere-t 
a-  IM  'on.;-  i"  !•  .i  in-  ni  in.;  d--l:i\  -  in-i-parahle  tVoni  a  Irak  MIL:  'Tat' 
tind  dail  v  ei  >uf]ii  t  -  ',s  ; !  h  -and)  ialik->.  A  t'ter  a  1 1  me  t  IM  \  •  n'<  r«  •  1 
ih--  /.:i;..U--i.  and  land-d  at  Tele  K,  l-rnarv  I'd,  \»f,n.  Th-- 


THK  <  or.NTKY.  323 

journey  of  Dr.  Kirk  across  the  country,  comparatively  .-liort, 
was  accomplished  with  great  difficulty  and  extreme  suffering. 
It  W:LS  the  season  of  the  year  when  there  is  the  greatest  scarcity 
of  water,  and  the  little  to  be  foil  ml  l>y  digging  in  the  beds  of 
dry  watercourses  was  so  brackish  that  it  increased  the  thir>t 
which  they  sought  to  allay  ;  and  when,  at  long  intervals,  that 
chanced  to  In1  found  which  was  less  brackish,  it  had  already  be- 
come the  resort  of  large  game  whose  unscrupulous  habits  oi 
wallowing  in  the  mud  left  only  the  choice  of  a  filthy  draught 
for  a  salt  one.  The  country  was  level,  and  large;  tracts  of  it 
were  covered  with  mopane  trees,  whose  small  leaves  ailbrdcd  no 
shelter  from  the  scorching  ravs  of  the  sun,  which  burnt  oh*'  the 
grass  and  baked  the  earth.  The  heat  was  so  great  that  the  men 
frequently  jumped  from  the  path  in  the  vain  hope  of  cooling 
their  scorched  feet.  The  fiit  was  melted  awav  from  the  salt  pork 
which  was  carried  by  one  of  the  natives,  and  only  the  fibre  of 
the  meat  remained.  But  even  this  path  was  hardly  known  at 
Tete  before  it  became  the  highway  along  which  merciless  trade i> 
drove  their  human  cattle  toward  a  market. 


CIIAPTKIl     XIX. 

joruNi:v>  <»K  iioNou. 

Re^HT'l  f-r  '  iMi-.Mii'-Ms  -Mii\v  l'r«-j>:iriti'>ii-  -  M:irkrt  I'riof*  at  Tete—  Sincr 
Mi-a-ur-'--  S'M-iiil  Turn  Kvi-niiiL'  (  latln-riirjs  iVvtili.ir  "  Tra-1'nrtirs  "--  Mil- 
k.  .1..!..  i  >l.;.-,-li..u-  I..  I.--.IV:!,,'  '!•'•  Tin-IP  (i:iin«  :ui<i  I...s«(-v  |  ||,-  (limit  - 
.(•••irii'-v  I'.'-jun  I.iiiy.uiti  >«-k-  l'-:n  1  In-  Mis»ii>u—  (  iravrn  Kxplnimliolt  of 
K.»;  Itir--  l.ivii).'-i..ii.-\  (  '..nti.i.-n.'r  !l..|.<-  I  n-liak.-i<  M;ik«.li-l..  Kintlit'ulnc** 
At;,  n::.  11-  <ir-.winj  I'i-atli-i-ii.'ii  >'-:i«anl  .  \.-.iin  I  .  t.-  Tin-  K'ini;i>in-  - 
I  "!,.-  ••  l'j..:i.  .-r"  A  rri\  .•>  Tii--  K»\  11111:1  llcliirn  In  llir  Sliiri-  I'ln-  "  I'  nivrr'-itv'n 
\f:-«;  .11  "  Tii'-ir  M  i-!'..rtu:i.  ••<  --  W.ir  1'n-x  ailiii-  I'll.-  J»l:i\  .-Tr:nl.-  Lake 
.\\.L--.I  Th--  l..tk<-  Trilx  •-.  ->hii].:uu.i  I  '.  .uh  <.|  .M  r-.  l.i\  in_--t..ti<-. 

IT  !i:ts  IxH'ii  uliMTVtil  l»v  thost-  \vlio  Icivr  lnvi»mr  at  all  familiar 

vvitli  tlic  liti'  of  I  )r.  Li\  iiiir-t'iMc  that  hr  roii.-idi  rc<l  MM  ilitliniltv 
>r  <lai]_r'-r  an  apoloj-v  for  thr  in-^lcrt  of  any  dutv.  llo\\cvi-r 
•haritahlv  In-  mav  liavc  n-_r:irili-<l  tin-  shortcoming  o(  otlu-rs,  he 
h'-!'l  hiin-'-ll  liv  tin-  ni"-i  univlcntinij  la\\-;  hi-  inhcritctl  maxim 
\\a-  i-n^niVdl  on  hi-  liKtrt.  !!'•  knew  that  tin-  chief  who 
ha<l  thr'-f  vi-ar-  l»-ti»rc  cnntMc«l  hi-  iV"iA'  and  hi-  cttilc  to  him 


him  tli--  o!,!i_Mt  inn  to  Itoiior  that    confidence  !>v  the  faitht'nl  jier- 
I'M'maii1'''  of    hi-  olili^ation.        I  lii-re  -ernird   to  \H-  Ho  iva-on   \\liV 

tlii-  j"iini--y  -honld  !><•  |oii_r.-r  deferred,  and  |ire|iaration-  \\cn- 
a'-'-ordm^ly  ln-_'iin  for  a  jonnii-v  of'  honor  from  '|Vt«-  to  Lin  vant  i. 
Th-'  "  Mi  ll'.li'-rt  "  \va-  in  tin-  la-t  -taLfe-  of  in«-!lii-ii-in-v  ;  -he  had 
IH-I-OIMI-  intoli-ralily  |e;ikv.  and  thf  di-n  of'  inniimeralile  rat.-  and 
nd  t  h>-  l»-t  t  hat  «-"tild  IM-  •!•  >ne  \rith  h.- 


In  tie-  mid-1  o)  tie-  liii-\  |iri'|>arat  ion-  tor  i!n-  |«'iiniev  thi-n- 
V'-ry  Lit!--  "•]i|.'irttmitv  f.  .r  mneh  ••!-••.  anil  onl\-  -n.-h  i-\-i-nt- 
IM  I  •  !'•  ill--  .1-  -  1'ie-  eoii-|neiioi|-l  V  1  >•  -f-ii'i'  tip-in  r«-ei-i  \  i-d  :itt<  II- 
tion.  1'.  i!  a  in  in  -o  d- '-|.!\-  int.-i----t'-d  in  the  eniidilioii  of*  the 
jM-ojili-,  and  tie  intlu'ii'--  nnd-r  which  th-\'  \\>r<-  living,  i-  na- 
turallv  int.!'-t..|  in  tli-  ran- -|M-cimen  of  authority  \\hn-h  wa-* 
jii-t  tli-n  mal.in,'  a  )itt!--  rij>j>li-  "ii  t  he  .-urIa<-«-  of  th-  ordmarilv 


MAUKKT    1MUCKS    AT   TKTK.  .'',2.5 

dull  community.  Owing  to  the  desolating  wars  of  former  years, 
tin*  cost  of  provisions  was  nearly  three  time-  as  iniii-h  a>  in  bv- 

i'one  davs  ;  so  his  excellency  determined  to  reduce  iiricr-  to  their 
i~>  • 

former  standard,  and  proclaimed  that  in  future  twenty-tour  fowls 
instead  of  eight  were  to  be  sold  for  two  yards  of  calico,  and  that 
the  prices  of  sheep,  goats,  and  oil  should  he  reduced  in  like 
proportion.  The,'  first  native  who  came  to  market  refused  to 
sell  his  fowls  at  government  prices,  and  was  at  once  hauled  up 
before  the  irate  commandant,  and,  for  contumacy  to  this  new 
re-enactment  of  old  laws,  condemned  to  he  man-lied  up  and 
down  the  street  all  day,  with  his  cackling  merchandise  hung 
round  his  neck,  and  then  sent  to  prison  to  pass  the  night.  An- 
other poor  fellow  brought  a  pot  of  groundnut-oil  for  sale,  and 
was  condemned  to  drink  of  it  largely  for  refusing  to  sell  it  at 
the  legal  rate. 

Such  measures  did  very  well  as  an  expression  of  his  excel- 
lency's animus,  hut  they  were  impotent  so  far  as  anv  general 
influence  on  the  market  was  concerned.  The  natives  simply  de- 
clined to  bring  their  possessions  to  the  village  under  the  circum- 
stances, and  while  the  country  is  claimed  \\itli  a  great  .-how  of 
dignity  by  the  Portuguese,  the  tax  collectors,  who  should  ven- 
ture to  invade  the  back  country  for  tin-  dues  of  their  master, 
would  probably  be  called  on  to  pay  the  ''  /uvt  <l<ht"  before  col- 
lecting the  first  one.  Besides  the  funerals  and  wedding-,  which 
are  reckoned  among  the  institutions  of  the  place,  the  ''tea- 
parties1'  are  perhaps  as  characteristic  of  the  mercantile  commu- 
nity. Thev  are  of  a  ''social  turn,"  and  these  evening  parties  are 
quite  popular  with  thorn,  and  if  anv  man  would  know  of  the 
climate  of  Tete,  the  expedition  supports  us  in  advising  him  to 
select  a  "  tea-party  "  for  his  investigations  ;  nowhere  mav  he 
hope  to  witness  so  satisfactorily  the  strangely  debilitating  effects. 
Of  such  an  occasion  Or.  Living-tone  says: 

"  Tn  the  course  of  an  hour  a  number  of  the  members  become 
too  feeble  to  sir  in  their  chair-,  and  slip  unconsciously  under  the 
table  ;  while  others,  who  have  been  standing  up  loudly  singing 
or  talking,  fall  into  one  another's  arms,  swearing  eternal  friend- 
ship, but  gradually  losing  control  both  of  tongue  and  limb. 
Slaves  sit  at  the  door,  who,  understanding  these  symptoms,  enter 
and  bear  their  weak  and  prostrate  masters  home.  We  should 


.HlV)  A     1KA    PARTY    AT    TKTE. 

not  hesitate  to  riscrilx1  these  svmptoms  to  inebriety,  if  intoxica- 
tion wa-  not  (hs'Ttbftl  here  bv  tin-  phrase  '  he  S(>eaks  Knglish,' 
that  i-,  '  he'>  drunk  ;'  so  that  aiiv  -uch  eharj*u  would  have  tho 
ap|H-arauce  of'  a  t'i  y/o/yK. .  The  -Inn-kin^  prevalence  uf intcin- 
|H  Tancr  and  other  vic»>  anioii^  the  Portuguese  at  Tete  made  u< 

\v lYr,    ii"t    tliat    they  had    fever,  hut    that     they  \vcn-  not   all 

-•\\vpt  i'tl' t«>'_r«  tlu-r.  Thi'ir  habits  would  b<>  fatal  in  anv  climate; 
tin-  native-  marvrllrd  t-vcn  motv  than  we  did;  our  Makololo, 
\»r  in-tauii-,  looki-d  on  :i'.:h:i>t  at  tlux*  Convivial  parties,  and 
Sininvaii''  <li-^Til><-d  oiu-  in  a  \vav  that  nii_rht  liavc  donr 
tin-  a<-t"i>  I;IMM!.  'A  I'urttliriU-x1  -land-  up."  >aid  he,  'and 
•  r\<^  \"i\'a!  that  mean-,  I  am  plea.-<-d  ;  another  -av-,  \*iva! 
1  am  plea-eil  too;aml  then  thev  all  -hoiit  out  \*i\'a!  we  are 
all  |>le;i-,il  together;  they  are  -"  -lad  ju-t  to  p't  a  little  In-er.' 
<  )ne  niu'lit  he  -vii\v  three  iiiehriated  olliei-r-  in  the  mid-t  of  their 
enjoviiieiit  ijiiarrrlliui;  alxiut  a  la!-e  report  ;  «>ne  jumped  on  hi-> 
MijH-ri«ir  and  irinl  to  bite  him  ;  and,  \\hil-t  the-e  i\\.i  were  ri'll- 
ini;  on  the  tl  >'>r.  th"  third  eairjht  up  a  chair  and  therewith 
pounded  then)  b-.tli.  Si  1 1  i  1 1  vane,  horrified  at  -ueh  itmdiirt,  e.x- 
rlainie  1,  •  What  kind  <»('  pe-.ple  can  the-e  whites  l>e,  who  treat 
even  their  elnef-  in  thi-  manner?'' 

A-  the  preparation-  for  their  departure  j)ri>jrre>j*e«l,  it  \va-  dis- 
e.,ver-d  that  -nine  uf  tho-e  who  had  come  (town  from  the  Mako- 
lolo ei.untrv  with  I  M\  Livinp*tone  had  U-eom,-  -o  identified  with 
their  teniporarv  home  that  thev  w«-re  not  ine!iue<l  to  return. 
Manv  had  taken  up  with  slave-women,  whotu  thev  a--i-ted  in 
hoeing,  and  in  consuming  the  pnHltiec  of'  their  garden-.  Some 
fourteen  eh  i  Id  ren  had  been  born  to  them  ;  and  inconsequence 
of  now  lia\  in-  no  chief  to  order  them,  or  to  claim  their  -er\  ice-, 
'li>  v  thought  thev  were  about  a-  well  off  a-  thev  had  been  in 
their  o'.vn  eI1iuitr\-.  Thev  knew  and  re-jretted  that  thev  could 

eail       llelther     \\IVe-      l|of     ehlldfell      their     o\V|i;      the      - 1  a  \e-o\\  [  |ep- 

e'ainied  rhe  \vhole;  Imt  their  natural  afVeetmn-  had  Ineii  -o  en- 
i-hain-d  that  th"v  clave  to  the  done-tie  ti,-.  |',\-  :l  |a\\  of'  |',  ,r- 
tujal  t!i.  bajit  i/i'd  children  of'  -laVe-woiilen  are  all  tree;  b\  !  he 
c'l-toiii  of  lie  /,amKe-i  that  la 'A  i-  void.  \\  hen  it  i-  n-ferre<l  to, 
;!,.-  olfi'-er-  laii/h,  and  -a\\  "  1  IP -«•  Li-bon-lmni  law-  an-  \'erv 
-'nn_"!it,  but  -onieho\v,  po--ilil\-  from  the  heat  of'  the  climate, 
h.  -.  tlf  \  "-•  all  their  fo,-, •,..'' 


PREPARATIONS    Foil   JOt'KNKY.  ;>;>7 

It  will  not  IM>  forgotten  that  these  men  were  only  culled 
Makololo ;  the  on Iv  real  member  of  that  tribe  since  the  death  of 
Sekcletu  in  the  whole  partv  was  Kanvanta,  on  whom  the  leader- 
.»hip  now  devolved,  the  others  In-longing  to  other  tribes  which 
had  Ixvn  added  to  the  dominion  «»i'  Sebituanc.  Many  of  the^e 
men  had  onlv  added  to  their  own  vices  those  of  the  Tctc  slaves 
with  whom  thev  had  been  in  contact  ;  others,  l>y  toiling  during 
the  fir-t  two  years  in  navigating  canoes  and  hunting  elephants, 
hud  often  managed  to  save  a  little  to  take  back  to  their  own 
conntrv,  lint  had  to  part  with  it  all  for  food  to  support  the  rest 
in  times  of  lumber,  and,  latterly,  had  fallen  into  the  improvident 
habits  of  slaves,  and  spent  their  surplus  earnings  in  beer  and 
agua  ardiente. 

I  ndcr  such  circumstances  it  was  «juite  an  undertaking  to  «/et 
so  inanv  men  in  marching  trim  ;  but  the  Makololo,  who  had 
worked  for  the  expedition,  were  paid  for  their  services,  and  cvcrv 
one  who  had  come  down  with  the  doctor  from  the  interior  re- 
ceived a  present  of  cloth  and  ornaments,  in  order  to  protect  them 
from  the  greater  cold  of  their  own  eountrv,  and  to  show  that 
they  had  not  come  in  vain.  A  merchant  sent  three  men  nl"Mir 
with  presents  for  Sekelehli  Major  Sieard  also  furnished  three 
men  to  assist  the  party  on  their  return,  and  having  received  the 
loan  of  a  couple  of  donkcvs  completed  their  preparations,  and 
at  2  P.M.  on  the  15th  of  May  their  party  filed  awav  from  the 
little  village  north  of  Tete.  The  journev  was  varied  with  in- 
cidents inseparable  from  African  life,  but  heini;  alon«r  almost 
the  same  route  by  which  we  have  already  followed  the  leader 
of  the  expedition  in  his  former  travels,  hardly  justifies  the  minute 
attention  of  those  who  are  caurcr  for  information  as  extensive  a< 
mav  he  of  the  great  continent. 

Three  months  after  leaving  Tete  the  partv  entered  Sesheke  ; 
great  ch a nires  had  taken  place  during  Or.  Livingstone's  absence 
of  lour  vears.  The  old  town  was  in  ruins  and  the  people  had 
built  another  higher  up  the  river;  the  people  were  all  in  leu- 
spirits  ;  Sekeletu  was  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  the  victim 
of  a  dreadful  disease.  A  severe  drought  had  cut  off  the  <  rop<. 
and  destroyed  the  pasture  of  Linyanti,  and  the  people  were  -cat- 
tered  over  the  country  in  search  of  wild  fruits,  and  the  hospitality 
of  those  whose  groundnuts  (Arachin  hypoya'ii)  had  nut  failed. 


THV.    MAKOLOIX)    ror.vrUY. 

Sfkelctu'.-  h-pro-v  l>n>u_'lit  troops  of  evils  in  its  train.  licliev- 
iu^  himself  In-witched,  he  had  su-lHfU1*!  a  miiuU-r  of  his  chief 
men,  and  had  put  some,  with  their  families,  to  <lcath  ;  other* 
ha<l  lied  to  di-tant  triln^  and  w<n  living  in  exile.  Tin-  chief 
had  -hut  lituiM-lf  ii|>,  and  allowed  i>"  one  to  conic  into  his  pres- 
ence hut  hi-  iini •!<•  Mamiiv.  I'.'nuaiic,  \vho  had  Ix-en  as  "  head 
and  cv.--  '  to  him.  had  ju-t  died  ;  evideiHf,  he  thought,  of  the 
jHjtcnt  -]M -i!-  of  tho-e  who  li:it.-d  all  who  |,,ve«l  the  chief.  The* 
coiintrv  \\;s-  -utVerin^  ijrirvou-lv,  and  Srl)ituaiH''s  trrand  empire 
wa-  cruriil'li:ij  t^  pice.--.  A  lari:1'  l*'dv  of  voiui^  I{;irot>e  had 
revoh«-<i  and  tli-d  to  the  north,  killing  a  man  l>v  the  \vav, 
in  ofd«  r  to  put  a  Mood-fetid  l>et\vcen  Ma-iko.  t he  diiel'  to  \\iioin 
thev  \vere -^oiiiiT,  and  S.-keli-tn.  'lli'-  liatoka  under  Sinarnane 
and  Mil"  inl-a  \\.re  indepeiulent,  and  Ma-hotlane  at  the  falls 
\va-  ~- -tt  in_r  Si  ki-let u 's  authority  virtualh'  at  tl'-lianci-.  Sfl»ituaiH'*s 
\vi-.-  p. "hc\-  in  treating  th<-  mmjuercil  triln  -  on  e«j',ial  t"-rms  with 
hi^  own  Makololo,  a-  all  children  of  the  chief',  and  c«jua!!v  eli^- 
:!>!<•  to  tli'-  hi_'h'-t  honor-,  had  !»<•  n  alian<loned  l>\  hi-  -on,  who 
marrii-d  HOIK-  hut  Makololo  women,  and  appointed  to  otliec  no".c 
hut  Makololo  men.  He  had  he.-ome  unpopular  anioii^  tiie 
l»Ia«-k  trilc -,  con<|tiercd  liv  tin- >|Miir  hut  luiirc  ciliftuallv  \von  hv 
the  -.uli-i  <|U'-nt  ui-cand  |ii-t  'joveniment  of  In-  father. 

'1  he  ult'-r  ov"-rthrow  of  the  Makololo  dominion,  which  W:LS 
on!v  Join-  \ear-  in  the  future,  wa-  ^tron^lv  f 'iv-hado\\  ,-d  in  the 
inerea-iii-_r  'li-<-'Hiti-nt  of' tlii-  |"ople.  StiMii-je  ruiiior-  were  afloat 
r- -pf-tiir^  the  tin-'-«-n  S.-kel.  tu  ;  hi-  lin_'"-r-  were  .-aid  to  have 
•jro-.vn  like  ca_rl«-'-  claw-,  and  hi-  face  -o  fright f'ullv  di-torted 
'hat  no  on<-  ci.sild  nco_Mn/.-  him.  Sonic  had  l»'_run  to  hint  that 
he  m:_dif  not  reallv  IM-  t  he  -on  i.f'  t  In-  •_'!"•  -at  Sehit  uan«-t  the  )i  "under 
'•!  t!,-  nation,  -trolly  m  l,a!t!e  and  u'l-e  m  tin-  atlair-  of'  -tat"-. 
"  In  th'-  dav-  of  t  he  '  li't  at  I  .ion  -  ^.  I.  it  uaii'-  ,  '  -aid  hi-  on!  v  -i-t«  r, 
Mori.t:i!-ian' '-  wido-.v,  who-e  hu-hand  S.-k«-l'-tu  had  killed,  "we 
l.i'l  .'li'!'-  and  lilt!--  i-hi"-f-  and  •  Id- r-  to  carrv  on  t  he  >.'overn- 
i:, '•!!?,  ait'l  the  -/feat  (hi.  f,  S'  Mtuatic.  knew  th<  i:t  all,  ami  cvi-rv- 
'  ii:  n_'  t  hi  \  di"l.  and  t  h«  '\  h"  •!<•  count  rv  v  a-  \\  i-<  1  v  rtlhil  ;  hut 
iio-.v  >.  L.i'itu  kno'.'.  -  iiot|iini_r  of  \\hat  hi-  ni:d"  rliirj-  do,  and 
t'i'V  i  ire  not  f..r  him,  and  th<-  Makololo  po\\.r  i-  |;(>t  jia--inur 
a\v:iv." 

Th--  native  do.  top<   had   ^iv.-n   the  ca>r  (if  S-krletll   tip.       They 


SICKNESS   OF   KEKELKTU.  329 

rould  not  cure  him,  and  pronounced  the  (list-use  incurable.  A  n  did 
doetresa  from  tht  Manyeti  tribe  had  come  to  see  what  she  could 
do  for  him,  and  on  her  skill  he  now  hung  his  last  hopes.  She 
allowed  no  one  to  see  him  except  his  mother  and  uncle,  making 
entire  seclusion  from  society  an  essential  condition  of  the  much 
longed-for  cure.  He  sent,  notwithstanding,  for  the  doctor,  who 
found  him  on  the  following  day  sitting  in  a  covered  wagon, 
whieh  was  enclosed  hy  a  high  wall  of  close-set  rei-ds ;  his  liice 
was  onlv  slightly  disfigured  bv  the  thickening  of  the  skin  in 
parts,  where  the  leprosy  had  passed  over  it  ;  and  the  onlv  pecu- 
liarity about  his  hands  was  the  extreme  length  of  his  finger- 
nails, which,  however,  was  nothing  very  much  out  of  the  way, 
as  all  the  Makololo  gentlemen  wear  them  uncommonly  long. 
She  was  (irmly  convinced  that  he  had  been  bewitched.  "  Mori- 
antsiane,"  said  he,  "  my  aunt's  husband,  tried  the  bewitching 
medicine  first  on  his  wife,  and  she  is  leprous,  and  so  is  her  head- 
servant  ;  then,  seeing  that  it  succeeded,  he  gave  me  a  stronger 
dose  in  the  cooked  flesh  of  a  goat,  and  I  have  had  the  disease 
ever  since.  They  have  lately  killed  Ponwane,  and,  as  you  see, 
are  now  killing  me."  Ponwane  had  died  of  fever  a  short  time 
previously.  Sekeletu  asked  for  medicine  and  medical  attend- 
ance, but  the  doctor  did  not  like  to  take  the  case  out  of  the 
hands  of  the  female  physician  already  employed,  it  being  bad 
policy  to  appear  to  undervalue  any  of  the  profession  ;  and  she, 
being  anxious  to  go  on  with  her  remedies,  said,  "She  had  not 
given  him  up  yet,  but  would  try  for  another  month  and  if  he 
was  not  cured  by  that  time  she  would  hand  him  over  to  the 
white  doctors."  She  was,  however,  induced  to  resign  her  place 
earlier,  and  the  superior  skill  of  her  successors  soon  alleviated 
the  suiVerings  of  the  young  chief  considerably,  but  it  had  already 
become  too  deeply  rooted,  and  they  could  only  lament  in  their 
hearts  that  the  glory  which  the  wise  Sebitnane  had  bequeathed 
to  his  people  should  go  down  under  the  inefficiency  of  a  chief 
whose  vices  had  bound  him  in  cords  so  painful  and  so  fatal. 

But  incidents  of  deeper  interest  even  than  the  illness  of  Seke- 
letu and  the  disaffection  of  his  people  had  been  wrought  into 
the  history  of  Linyanti  since  Dr.  Livingstone  was  there.  It 
will  be  remembered  they  had  expressed  a  desire  that  a  mission- 
ary might  come  and  live  with  them,  and  had  committed  theiu- 
20 


;j30  THK  MISSION. 

solves  to  a  removal  from  th»4ir  deadly  swamps  to  some  healthiet 
loi-ditv.  It  Inn!  sevmed  verv  desirable  t<>  establish  a  mission 
amon^  th«x>  jMi>p!e  Ixt-iiise  of  the  extrnt  of  their  dominion,  and 
Ix-i-atise  at  their  capital  Christian  leaehers  would  lxi  in  eon*tant 
intercourse  with  representatives  uf  minn-ron-  trilx's.  A<ti>rd- 
in-jlv,  tin-  I/>ndon  Mi— ionarv  Society,  under  whose  auspiro  tin- 
exploration  <>f  their  eoiintrv  had  Keen  effected,  undertook  tin 
wurk  of  e>tahlishin<;  a  mi.— ion  at  the  town  of  Linvanti,  aihl 
api'oint.il  Rev.  llallowav  llelrnore,  who  had  Ir-ei'ii  x-vciitmi 
V«MI'«  a  ini--i":iarv  a:n  >ii'_r  thi-  IlM-huaiia-,  and  sissoointcil  with 
hi'M  M--"r«.  Mai'ken/ic  and  l'i  !«•«•.  Tla-se  vonnj^er  men,  ajt-om- 
pani'-d  l>\-  •j.-ntli-  and  tru-'-h'-arl-  <1  \\ivc-,  who  ventured  to  hope 
that  tli'-v  i-MiiM  .jo  whi'i-r  Mr-.  Living-tone  had  ijone,  Iclt  Kii;;- 
land  in  .Ini)-  ,  IS53,  and  in  .Iu!v  I-indfd  at  the  ('ape.  Alh-r 
manv  trviirj  rxjH-ru'Wi's,  tin-  mi  — ion  partv  at  la.<t  reaehed  the 
^•<'ii'-  «•!'  th'-ir  appoint  men!,  in  I'rhrtiarv,  IxtJO.  In  Aiiurust, 
wh'-n  I  >r.  I  J\  in_'-toiif  arrived,  tin-re  wa>  onlv  the  sad  .-torv  of 
th'-ir  <  tl'ort  and  a  niimlxT  of  ^ravr-.  Tln-v  ha<l  mmc  on  the 
•ground  in  tin-  nio-t  iinfavonilile  M-ason,  and  from  the  time  of 
their  arrival  wi-n-  tin-  vi'-tim-  of'  the  prevailing  fever  of  the  jihr-e. 
Th'4  a«-i -iiiint  "(  thi'ir  sutl'rrinir*  i»  a  di^'oiira'jini;  j>a^''  in  tin- 
hi-forv  of  Atri-an  mi  — ion-,  |»ut  we  c;in  hardlv  yield  tin-  roii- 
vietion-  whi'-h  have  L'l'own  on  ii-  in  following  tin4  »-xp«-n»'ni-e  of 
Dr.  Living-tone  through  tin-  vear*  of  }n-.  inten-oiirs<-  with  tin- 
Ma!»o!olo.  The  ii!ne->  and  iM-rcjivi-tiHMlt  through  \vhi«-h  tin- 
•»nrvi\'or  of'  tin-  enterpri-"  n-^irdi-il  th--  tn^iple  e«mld  hardlv  llnl 
?o  'j-i'.e  a  darker  -ha  !••  to  tlu-ir  i-hara*4tt'r<.  1  hev  donlit'n--  -ut- 
!',(••  -d  -oii|.-  \-.  fon_r-  m  addition  to  the  r:i\a'_ri-  of  di-ea-e,  hut  \\ •<• 
would  nnieli  r:ttln-r  find  tin-  explanation  of'  tln-ir  -iekin--  in  tin- 
il--a'l!\'  i-xhalal ion-  of  tin-  iHMijlilmrin-j  -wamp-  than  aeeept  the 
«!i_'_"  -t  i'  .n  oj  |io|..iniir_'  ;  and 
\l:i>  l-.'-n/i'-  and  tin-  "  I  ra\'  1-  of  |.p,  iii^-to 
'.',••  ar<-  eiiiivinei-d  thai  a  eandid  reader  woul 
tin-  eondm-t  of  tin-  p.-oj,],-  touard  Mr'.  1'riee,  at't-T  tin-  d«-ath  of 
M;-.  Ili-lnton4,  i'i!_'!it  h:r.'-  foiju'l  an  explanation  in  -oine  mi-- 
ijiiilf-r-tandiiiL'  or  mi-take  \\liMi  \\oiild  -hieM  the  aetor-  frotn 
tin4  i-har^'e  ••!'->,  iin_-'  IH-I-OII-! v  plundering  a  Ix-reaviil  and  >ntli-r- 
iii'j  i/ui^t.  ('ertamlv,  In'Weri-r  -tron^lv  tin-  trial-  and  lo-><- of 
•Le  •  nterpri-e  mav  -peak  aL'aiu-t  the  triU-  who-,-  elevation  w:i3 


FAITHFULNESS   OF   THK    PEOPLE.  331 

nought  by  it,  tlu>  testimony  of  Dr.  Livingstone  to  the  character, 
customs  ami  promise  of  the  people  in  nil  the  broad  region  which 
then  acknowledged  the  authority  of  Sekcletu  is  unshuken,  while 
his  personal  experience  of  their  faithfulness  and  kindness  eanecl.s 
that  of  his  more  unfortunate  friends.  There  was  no  particular 
reason  whv  the  chief  who  would  deal  so  unjustly  l>v  the  mission 
party  should  so  carefully  cultivate  the  friendship  of  Livingstone. 
There  would  have  been  no  trouble  in  concocting  an  explanation 
of  their  loss  had  he  desired  to  appropriate  the  nianv  valuable 
articles  which  had  been  seven  or  eight  vears  in  his  care.  These 
were  found  bv  Dr.  Livingstone  just  as  he  left  them  ;  thev  had 
been  guarded  most  sacredly  during  four  vears,  and  the  wagon 
had  stood  there  since  185.'$.  Naturally  enough,  while  his  heart 
grieved  for  the  noble  man  who  had  fallen  on  the  spot,  after 
laying  two  dear  children  and  a  devoted  wife  under  the  strange 
sod,  and  while  he  sympathized  deeply  with  those  who  had  shared 
the  suflering,  only  escaping  with  their  lives,  his  greatest  anxiety 
was  that  (he  interest  of  the  world  might  not  be  diminished  by 
tho  accounts  of  their  misfortunes.  And  it  could  hardly  be  ex- 
pected that,  however  much  he  might  lament  the  faults  he  knew 
thev  had,  he  should  forget  the  services  they  had  done  him,  or 
ignore  their  expressions  of  esteem  and  confidence.  \\  hen  1  * 
went  over  to  Linvanti  he  was  escorted  by  men  furnished  by  Si  - 
keletn,  and  rode  the  chief's  own  horse.  When  he  arrived,  tlh.1 
head  men,  Mosale  and  IVkoiivane,  received  him  cordially,  an  1 
lamented  that  they  had  so  little  to  oiler  him.  Oh,  had  he  on . y 
arrived  the  vear  previous,  when  there  was  abundance  of  milk 
and  corn  and  beer ! 

Very  early  the  next  morning  the  old  town-crier,  Ma-Pulcn- 
yane,  of  his  own  accord  made  a  public  proclamation,  which,  in 
the  perfect  stillness  of  the  town  long  before  dawn,  was  striking: 
"I  have  dreamed!  I  have  dreamed!  1  have  dreamed  !  Thou, 
Mosale,  and  thoii,  Pckonvauc,  mv  lords  be  not  taint-hearted, 
nor  let  vour  heart-  be  sore,  but  believe  all  the  words  of  Monare 
(the  doctor),  for  his  heart  is  white  as  milk  towards  the  Makololo. 
I  dreamed  that  he  was  corn  HILT,  and  that  the  tribe  would  live  it' 
you  praved  to  God  and  irave  heed  to  the  word  of'  Monare.'' 
Ma-Pulenvane  showed  Dr.  Livingstone  the  burying-plaee  where 
poor  Helmore  and  sev.-n  others  were  laid,  distinguishing  those 


•'••'-  KINI>NKSS   CONTINUED. 

whom  he  had  put  to  rest  and  those  for  whom  Mafale  had  per- 
formed that  last  ofl'uv.  Nothing  whatever  markeil  the  sjx»t, 
and,  w'th  the  native  idea  of  lti<lin;/  the  dead,  it  was  said,  ''  it  will 
«oon  In-  all  ovt-r^rown  with  bushes,  for  no  one  will  cultivate 
there."  None  hut  Ma-Pulcnyanc  approached  the  place;  tin- 
other-  -tood  at  a  respectful  di-tantv ;  they  invariably  avoid  every- 
thing c"iineeted  with  death,  and  no  such  thins;  as  taking  portion* 
of  human  bodies  to  make  charms  of,  a-  i^  the  cn-tom  farther 
north,  has  ever  Ix-en  known  amonjr  the  Makololo. 

When  the  wa^on  was  left  ei'jht  year-  before,  several  loose 
nrtic].-,  a-  the  mediciue-che-t,  ma^ie  lantern,  too]-,  and  book-;, 
Wen-  j^iven  bv  Sckclettl  into  the  charge  of  hi-  wive-.  Kverv- 
thmij  wa-  now  found  in  safetv.  1  he  wai^on  wa-  in  sufficiently 
g««»d  condition  for  the  doctor  to  -Iti-p  in,  though  the  coverinc; 
hiid  partly  r«>tte<l  oil',  and,  when  the  chief'  wa-  ab-eiit  at  the 
iVtrot-e,  the  white  ant.-  had  destroyed  one  of' the  wheel-.  Seke- 
li  in'-  wives,  Seipom-  and  Mantu,  without  bcin-j  a-k«-d,  cook.  ,1 
abundance  of  ^O<M!  be<'f.  and  bake«l  a  larjc  supply  of  little  cake- 
after  the  pattern  which  the  Makololo.  who  went  to  Loanda.  had 
brought  back  to  them.  With  gentle  reproaches  for  not  brin-jiiiLr 

1 

'•  Ma-KolM-rt,"  or  Mrs.  Living-tone,  thev  repeated  -ome  of  the 
prattle  of  her  children  in  Sechuana,  and  said,  "  Are  we  ney»  r 
more  to  kno\y  anything  of  them  but  their  name*'.'" 

S-ki-letu  was  well  plc.a-e<l  with  the  varioii-  article-  brought 
for  him,  and  in'|iiired  if  a  -hip  could  not  briii'_r  hi-  -ui_rar-mill 
•ind  the  '.ther  ;jood-  which  had  In-en  of  nce«  — itv  left  behind  at 
'I'et--.  '  >n  hearing  that  there  wa-  a  |m>.-ibility  of  a  powerful 
-teaMp-r  a-ei-ndin^  a-  far  a-  Sinamane's,  but  never  al»ove  the 
(Jrand  Victoria  fall-,  he  a-kcd,  with  charmini;  -imj)lieitv,  if  a 
ca:,;ion  eoiild  not  blow  awav  the  fall-,  -o  a-  to  allow  the  \-e--el 

to   ci  .HP     Up    to     Sc-hekc. 

Ib-  ".a-  al-o  a-    nr-jeiit    a-   r-yer   that  the    .loejor  would    make 

hi-  !iom<-  v.  ith  him  ;   but  he  could  not  ot!'.-r  -n<  h  indiifem'-nt.-  a- 

h  id   -'jrroiin.led    the    home  of   hi-  nlu-trio'l"   father.       Hi-  feeble 

'f-alth  a;id   f -o!j,h   ].o!i,-v   h  ad    !<  f1    Very   little    of   the  man  or  tie- 

'     '        ' 

••!' 

at     t  IP-    t  h'  >M'_rht    of  uuinin  .'    'n:-    t 

;•-  .",  ;;i  '  'li-a!]'-c!J,,'i  of'  the  -.i;l,j,  ef 


IlETUUN    TO   TETE. 

po  soon  with  only  a  remnant  of  his  strength.  But  it  was  out  of 
the  question  for  Dr.  Livingstone  to  think  of  even  a  protracted 
visit.  The  new  steamer  for  which  lie  had  petition*-*!  his  govern- 
ment was  expected  to  arrive  at  the  Kongone  in  Novemlx-r,  and 
it  was  nexx-ssary  that  he  should  hasten  thither.  He  was  still  firm 
in  his  belief  that  there  eould  he  found  no  more  desirable  field 
Jbr  missionary  work.  There  were  difficulties,  hut  none  which 
would  not  he  surmounted  gradually  by  wise  and  active  laborers. 

The  seaward  journey  occupied  about  two  months,  and  it  was 
toward  the  end  of  November  when  they  reached  Tete,  and  the 
Zambesi  was  then  so  low  that  they  were  compelled  to  wait  until 
December  before  they  could  go  on  to  the  Kongone,  win  re  they 
arrived  on  the  -1th  of  January,  18(51.  The  expected  vessel  was 
behind  time,  and  there  was  nothing  to  be  done  but  to  wait  as 
patiently  as  possible  for  her  arrival.  In  such  a  focus  of  decay- 
ing vegetation  nothing  was  to  be  dreaded  so  much  as  inactivity, 
and  they  were  compelled  to  seek  exercise  and  amusement  in 
hunting  and  searching  about  the  fetid  swamps.  Indeed  in  all 
parts  of  Africa,  as  elsewhere,  an  active  life  has  been  found  the 
safest.  A  mind  fully  occupied  and  hands  full  of  work  are  the 
surest  precautions  against  the  subtle  enemy  which  lurks  in  those 
vast  wildernesses.  On  the  31st  of  January,  1S01,  their  new 
ship,  the  "  Pioneer,"  arrived  from  England  and  anchored  out- 
side the  bar  ;  but  the  weather  was  stormy  and  she  did  not  venture 
in  till  the  4th  of  February. 

Two  of  her  Majesty's  cruisers  came  at  the  same  time,  bringing 
Bishop  Mackenzie  and  the  Oxford  and  Cambridge  mission  to 
the  tribes  of  the  Shireand  Lake  Xyassa.  The  mission  consisted 
of  six  Englishmen  and  five  colored  men  from  the  Cape.  It  was 
a  pn/xle  to  know  what  to  do  with  so  many  men.  The  estimable 
bishop,  anxious  to  commence  his  work  without  delay,  wished 
the  "  Pioneer  ''  to  carry  the  mission  up  the  Shire  as  far  as  ( 'hi- 
bisa's,  and  there  leave  them.  But  there  were  orave  objections 
to  this.  The  "  Pioneer  "  was  under  orders  to  explore  the  Ro- 
vuma,  as  the  Portuguese  government  had  refused  to  open  the 
Zambesi  to  the  ships  of  other  nations,  and  their  officials  were 
very  effectually  pursuing  a  system  which,  by  abstracting  the 
labor,  was  rendering  the  country  of  no  value  either  to  f!>ivi^nrrs 
or  to  themselves.  She  was  already  two  months  behind  her 


3-'i4  THK    KOVUMA. 

time,  anil  the  r.iinv  -ea-on  was  half  over.  Then,  if  the  partv  were 
taken  to  Chihi-a'-,  tin-  ink-ion  would  In-  !•  :'.  without  a  inedii-al 
attendant,  in  an  unhealthy  region,  at  tin-  beginning  of  the  m<*-t 
neklv  x-a-on  of  the  \var,  and  without  means  of  reaching  the 
healthv  highland-  <>r  of  returning  to  the  .-ca.  In  tlie  absemv  of 
medical  aiil,  ami  all  knowledge  of  the  treatment  of  fever,  it  was 
feared  tliat  there  mi;_fht  IK-  a  repetition  of  the  sorrowful  liite 
whi<-h  belell  the  similar  non-mc<liral  mi.-.-ion  at  Linvanti.  The 
bi>hop  at  la.-t  eon-entcd  to  prmnttl  in  the  "  Lvra  "  man-of-war 
t<>  Johanna,  ami  there  leave  the  members  of  the  mission  with 
h.-r  Maj« -t\ •'-  eonsul,  Mr.  Smiley,  while  he  himself  should  a<-- 
i-((!nj>a:iv  the  exju-.liti'iii  iij>  tin-  Rovtltiia,  in  order  to  :useertain 
whether  the  eoiiiit rv  around  it>  hiiul-wutcTS,  w  liieh  were  reported 
t«i  tl'\v  out  ot'  Nva.-^a,  wa^  a  >nital)le  place  lor  a  settlement. 

( )n  tin-  L'.'dh  of  Ft-hruary  the  '*  Piom-cr  "  anchored  in  the 
mouth  i't'  the  IlMVimia,  which,  unlike  mo-t  African  rivers,  ha> 
a  ni:iL'iiiticriit  hay  and  no  l>ar.  The  s4-enery  »n  the  lower  part 
of  the  iJovnma  \\a.-  found  >ujK-rii>r  to  that  on  tin-  /ainlte-i,  li>r 
thi-v  c.,iild  ea-ily  .-«•<•  the  highlands  from  the  -.-a.  I'j^ht  mile> 
from  the  mniith  the  mangrove-  are  !»•((  behind,  and  a  l«eautiful 
ran_re  ct'  \\ell-\vtMHletl  hill-  on  each  hank  Ix-jjins.  On  these 
rid_re-  the  tr«-e  resembling  Afrie:iii  l>laekwiMnI,  of  finer  ^r.Mii 
than  i-lionv,  <jro\v-  ahundailtlv  and  attain-  a  larj^e  ,-i/e.  Few 
iM*oi)]e  \\ei~e  -i  .n,  and  tho.-e  wei-c  ot  Aral)  breed,  and  did  not 
appear  i»  be  verv  \\ell  i.tV.  The  current  nf  t he  Kovnma  wa-  now 
a-  -t  i'i  'ii.;  a-  t  hat  of  the  /ainbe-i,  bill  the  volume  oi  \\  ater  i>  verv 
milch  !••--.  Si-veral  ot'  tin- ern--in<^-  had  ban-lv  water  enough 
fir  the  -hip,  drawing  five  |!-et,  (»  ]ia— .  1  'nfortnnately,  however, 
th-A-  had  -nll'ered  a  detention,  and  \\lien  they  had  axvndiil  a 
'•h-.rt  dl-taiice  found  tin-  river  falling  rather  rapidly,  and  they 
W.T.-  ol,:;-,  d  to  -i\-e  up  their  |.ro|,o-ed  exploration  f,,,-  th.- >.-a>on. 
]I  ,. ..,,,:,,_,  I,;,,.],  to  the  M-a.  th.-y  returni-1  to  the  K-.n-.n,-.  and 
-,,;'.. 1  a/a in  up  the  7,-i.nb.-i  lo  thr  Shire.  They  had  c.,mplaiiie.| 
„.,  much  of  t!,,-ir  f..rim-r  ve-.  1  that  th.-y  \vre  nnuillin.'  h  find 
n  limit  uiih  ih.  new  one.  but  th.-ir  pp.-n--ua-  L'n-ally  impaled 
],\  1,,-r  di-an.'l.i  of  water;  live  feet  wa-  found  In  !»•  too  niu.-li  for 
t),,.  navigation  of  the  II|.(HT  part  ..f  tl..-  Shir-.  P.nt  after  much 
ditTicnltv  tli.  -.  n  n  li-l  (  'hibi-a'-  ;  th-  fc  wa*  a  -j.-n.  r.l  f.-.  lin-  "f 
r.-!i.  f '.\heii  the  :il,,  hor  \\a-  c-a-1  in  the  ,,M  -po!  v.  h. n-  the  "  M.i- 


TICK  UNIVERSITY'S  MISSION. 

Robert"  had  rested  in  the  former  time,  and  all  hands  congratu- 
lated each  other  that  so  far  at  least  there  \v:is  occasion  (or  grati- 
tude. The  history  of  the  "  I  Iniversity's  Mission,"  hy  Kev.  Henry 
liowly,  is  hardly  more  encouraging  than  the  effort  at  Linvanti. 
Hut  there  ou<rht  not  to  have  been  felt  to  be  anv  vindication  in 

P"t  . 

need  of  men  who  had  proven  their  y.cal  by  most  arduous  labors 
and  painful  sacrifices,  and  their  faithfulness  by  at  last  laying 
their  lives  on  the  altar  of  the  cause  they  had  espoused.  Nor  ought 
it  to  be  necessary  to  find  a  solution  of  the  calamitous  termination  of 
it,  aside  from  the  absolute  difficulty  of  a  noble  cntcrpri-e. 
The  hearts  of  Christians  ought  to  be  so  set  on  the  salvation  of 
the  heathen  that  they  will  not  hesitate  to  lace  the  most  fatal 
diseases  and  the  most  unfriendly  receptions  in  the  prosecution 
of  their  work.  The  real  explanation  of  the  misfortunes  of  the 
devoted  members  of,  the  Shire  mission  can  hardly  be  found  in 
the  unfriendliness  of  the  natives  or  the  un healthiness  of  the 
country.  They  settled  there  at  a  time  when  the  country  was 
suffering  a  most  distressing  series  of  depredations.  The  Ajawa, 
encouraged  by  the  Portuguese,  were  burning  and  plundering  the 
upper  Manganja  country.  From  the  time  of  their  arrival  then- 
was  no  time  of  (juiet.  The  general  unrest  and  excitement  was 
unfavorable,  and  they  were  ultimately  driven  for  safety  into  tin; 
lower  country  to  be  the  prey  of  the  relentless  fevers.  As  tin- 
as  possible,  Dr.  Livingstone  encouraged  and  aided  them,  but  la- 
served  the  government,  whose  claims  could  not  be  neglected. 

As  soon  therefore  as  they  could  perform  such  services  lor  their 
friends  as  seemed  most  urgent,  and  had  seen  them  safely  on  the 
spot  which  the  good  Bishop  Maeken/ie  had  selected.  Dr.-.  Liv- 
ingstone and  Kirk,  with  Charles  Livingstone,  started  lor  Lake 
Xyassa,  furnished  with  a  light  four-oared  gig,  a  white  sailor  and 
a  score  of  attendants.  And  it  may  be  interesting  to  the  reader, 
that  people  readily  engaged  to  carry  the  boat  lortv  miles  for  a 
cubic  of  cotton  cloth  a  day  !  When  they  had  parsed  the  last  of 
the  cataracts  they  launched  their  boat  "  for  good  "  on  the  Shire, 
and  passed  easily  and  peacefully  on  to  the  lake,  and  sailed  into 
it  on  the  2d  of  September.  Tt  was  found  to  be  over  two  hun- 
dred miles  long  and  from  twenty  to  sixty  wide,  a  deep  sea-like 
shade  resting  on  its  surface.  They  had  never  before  seen  in 
Africa  anything  like  the  dense  population  which  thronged  iu 


OX    LAKE    XYASiA. 

»horvs.  Their  first  imprc-v-ion  of  tln->e  lake  dwellers  was  that 
they  were  downright  la/y  ;  groups  could  lx>  seen  during  the  day 
lying  f;t-t  :i>lccp  uiuIiT  tin-  -hade  of  the  tret's  along  the  shore, 
apparently  taking  tin-  \vorld  very  ea.-ily.  hut  a  Ix-tter  aopiaint- 
am-e  with  them  rt'Vealiil  the  faet  that  these  forenoon  slcc|>ers 
had  Ui-n  at  work  during  the  greater  part  «»f  the  night.  In  the 
afternoon  thcv  l«^in  to  bestir  them-clvc< ;  examining  and  mend- 
ing th«-ir  mi-,  carrying  thctn  to  the  canoes,  and  coiling  in  their 
line-.  In  thi-  evening  they  paddle  oil' to  the  l>est  fishing  station, 
and  throughout  mo-t  of  the  night  the  poor  fellows  are  toiling 
in  the  \\:.(.-r,  drawing  their  net.-. 

Tliou,di  there  arc  inanv  cr«MHMlilis  in  the  lake,  and  some  of 
an  extraordinary  -i/c,  the  fishermen  -;iy  that  it  i-  a  rare  thing 
fir  anv  line  to  U-  e;irrie«l  oll'hv  the-e  reptile*.  \\  hen  iTtK-tMlilcs 
em  ea-iiv  tili'ain  al)tl!uian<v  of  fish— their  natural  food — -they 
-•I'lmn  attaek  m-'ii  ;  lint  when  nnaMc  to  >«  »•  to  catch  their 
|  P-V,  iVmn  the  innddine.--.  ot  the  water  in  flood-,  they  arc  very 
JiHgeroil-. 

In  i-haracter  and  general  appearance  the  lake  trihe-  were 
found  t'i  If  very  milch  like  the  triln--  aiuoipj  whom  thev  had 
alreadv  travelled.  Their  -canlv  clothing  wa-  partly  ot'  cotton 
and  partlv  of  a  -urt  of  cloth  woven  from  hark.  The  ornamen- 
tati'iii  i-f  their  pei--<>n-  wa-  <it'  course  a  matter  of'  -pccial  j>rido 
and  delight. 

At  <li:lereiit  point-  aloni:  the  -linre  they  fnuiid  tin-  e,-tal>li-hed 
-!a\'e-er,,»in._r  |. !:>••.•-,  and  <inl\-  at  -iich  place-  \\erc  thcv  at  all 

•  mi"1.''!.       1  lie  lal<e  slave-trade  \\a-    Lroinur  on  at  a  terrihh-  rat«', 
.tii'l  the  hijh'T  thi-v  went   the  more  deeply  the  traveller-  ivali/.cd 
the  hon-or-  »f  a  trade  \\hich  eneoin-a'je-   every  vice  and  \\itheis 
i-\->r\    l»--:in! v.  and  paraU/c-   everv    eip-rgv  ot'   the   afflicted    land 

•  •yi-r  \\hi.-h  it  dra_'-  it-  aceiir-cil  chain. 

IIi\in_'  -pent  nearlv  t  \\ "  inoiitli-  on  the  lake,  and  feeling 
arn|''v  repaid  I- ir  their  toil  in  the  i-ni^Uiragi'lin-nl  they  had  c\- 

IK   !  :•   lie.  •!    itiliii   mill;.'    the    tUtUI'e    ot'     the    'JTeat      c.inlinellt.    till   V     re- 

tnni'-d  ?..  t1!.-  -hip.  \\liieh  tli'\  |-ea--he<l  on  the  Mli  d'  NorcniU-h. 
'!'(,.•  l-i-!i..p  eaiiii  il"'.\n  iVi'tn  Mai/oinero  tuiin-et  them,  and  il 
*a-  a  i'-v  ind'-«l  1"  -••••  him  in  -Meh  ^..inl  -pirn.-. 

<  >n   !'•  '  ':!'!iii:_'  t"     I  •  !•  ,   i'    ->\a-  a-certailH1*!   that   tic-    I'ortUL'Ue-*1 

g-.-, .  nuii' i;'    h.-'.d    _'.'.';i    -'I'll    in-t  ru-'t  i'in-  to  the  -la\  ni'_:    partic-4 


DEATH    OF    MILS.    LIVINGSTONE.  339 

within  their  territory  as  would  make  it  impossible  for  tlie 
expedition  to  pursue  their  work  :it  all  peacefully,  and  their  at- 
tention was  again  tnrne<l  to  the  Rovuma,  and  they  landed  at 
Shupanga,  with  a  view  of  perfecting  such  preparation  as  the  ex- 
ploration of  that  river  might  call  for.  The.  lever  wa.->  prevailing 
con-iderablv  at  the  time,  and  about  the  middle  (if  April  Mrs. 
Livingstone  w;is  prostrated  l>v  this  disease;  and  it  wa-  aeeom- 
panied  l>v  obstinate  vomiting.  Nothing  is  vet  known  that  can 
allav  this  distressing  svmptom,  which  ot'eonrse  renders  medicine 
of  no  avail,  as  it  is  instantly  rejected.  She  received  whatever 
medical  aid  could  he  rendered  from  Dr.  Kirk,  but  became  un- 
conscious, and  her  eves  were  closed  in  tin;  sleep  of  death  a.>  the 
sun  set  on  the  evening  of  the  Christian  Sabbath,  the  'JTth  of 
April,  1862.  A  coflin  was  made  during  the  night,  a  grave  was 
dug  next  dav  under  the  branches  of  the  great  baobab  tree,  and 
with  sympathizing  hearts  the  little  band  of  his  conntrvmen  as- 
sisted the  bereaved  husband  in  burying  his  dead.  At  his  re- 
quest, the  Rev.  James  Stewart,  who  had  come  out  as  the  agent 
of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland  to  view  the  country  before  at- 
tempting a  mission,  read  the  burial  service;  and  the  seamen 
kindly  volunteered  to  mount  guard  for  some  nights  at  the  .-pot 
xv here  her  bodv  rests  in  hope.  Those  who  are  not  aware  how 
this  brave,  good,  English  wife  made  a  delightful  home  at  Kolo- 
beng,  a  thousand  miles  inland  from  the  ( 'ape,  and  as  the  daughter 
of  Motlat  and  a  Christian  lady  exercised  most  beneficial  influ- 
ence over  the  rude  tribes  of  the  interior,  mav  wonder  that  --he 
should  have  braved  the  dangers  and  toils  of  tin-  down-trodden 
land.  She  knew  them  all,  and,  in  the  disinterested  and  dutiful 
attempt  to  renew  her  labor-,  was  called  to  her  rest  instead. 

The  expedition  had  worked  under  manv  disadvantages,  and 
in  the  face  of  difficulties  which  would  have  discouraged  less 
resolute  men.  Thev  had  been  generously  treated  bv  their 
irovcrnment,  but  unfortnnatelv  their  first  boat  was  a  burlc-ipie 
on  the  name,  and  the  "  Pioneer"  was  unadapted  to  the  waters 
on  which  she  was  to  sail.  I>esidcs  the  delav<  and  embarras-;- 
ment.s  growing  out  of  their  equipment,  the  Portuguese  ]' al"ii-v 
found  expression  in  manv  discouragements,  and  the  vigorous 
revival  of  the  slave-trade  more  than  neutralized  their  infhiencf 
on  the  natives  over  whom  its  de^rudin^  influence  extended. 


340  THE    KOVl'MA    AGAIN. 

When  they  wore  at  la>t  put  in  possession  of  the  "  Lady  Nvassa" 
— the  little  iri'ii  >toanier  with  which  they  projxised  to  ion*  their 
wav  up  the  rapids  of  the  Zambe-i  and  the  Shire — the  .season 
had  so  far  advanced  that  they  could  nut  think  of  that  under- 
taking until  another  HIMM!  time,  wliieh  would  involve  inevitably 
a  dclav  of  -everal  months  ;  and  it  wa>  decided  to  attempt  aj^ain 
tin-  exploration  of  thf  Kovumu,  which  wo-  rcjxirted  to  flow  from 
I>akc  Nvav-a.  They  were  the  more  anxious  to  find  out  the 
truth  of  thi-  n-jMirt,  iH-cau.-e  -itch  a  discovery  would  put  them  in 
coiniminieation  \\iih  the  va-t  fertile  regions  aUtut  the  lake  and 
alon^  the  I'pper  Shin,  l.v  a  path  1'ree  iVom  the  annovanee  of 
Li-bon  taxation.  Amtrdingly  thev  ,-et  out  aiMiut  the  1st  of 
Septoinlier,  l^'iL1,  on  a  journev  which  occupied  about  one 
month.  Tin-  result.-  of  thi-  exj>cdition  were  not  ^ratifvinir, 
though  mueh  more  Katisfactory  than  their  former  cflort.  Thev 
a.n-«-nded  without  >< -ri'>u-  dillieultv  alioiit  <>iif  hundretl  and  liflv 
mill-,  \\ln-re  tiiev  eneniinterttl  the  |K-euliar  i»l»st ructions  which 
H-em  to  Iwlon^  to  all  Alrican  ri\cr-.  The  river  Itet-mie  narrow 
and  riH-kv,  and  further  navigation  was  found  impossible.  l-'ew 
ineidi-nt.s  (xi-urretl  \\hich  \\ould  inten-i  tin-  reader. 

'lli'-  \all-y  wa.-  about  toiir  mi!'-  wide  and  bounded  on  each 
.-idc  l»v  a  raii'_r|-  o|'  hi'_rh  hill-.  I>urin;_r  the  lir-t  \\eck  verv  t'cw 
jM-«iplc  \v.-r<-  -<-cn.  Their  village-  \\cre  all  concealed  in  the 
thi' -k  jun^le-%  on  the  hill-.-idc-  for  protection  from  marauding 
.-lave  [.ariii--.  The  ab-enee  of  bird  or  animal  life  wa.-  remarka- 
ble, and  the  ,-hallow,  \\iinliiiLr  channel,  in  the  mid.-t  of  ab-olnte 
.-jtilliM •--,  ua-  elieerl'---  indeed.  The  lanjjuatjc1  of  the  (K'ople 
dilli  i-  d  e, Mi-id- -rabl\-  from  that  in  u-e  on  the  /amboi,  though 

it     -<  i-med    to    be  ol'  |  he    -a  Hie    til  111  iU'.          The    Cl|-t"||l-    of  the    J  ico  |  lie, 

a-  fir  a-  a.-ci-rtained,  were  not  unlike  tho-e  alon^  the  other 
riv<  r-  'he  -anie  1"\  ••  o|'  ..niaiiM  nt  and  ihe  Iblbe-  ol  ta-hioii. 
Iluiiiinj  the  -en/e — an  annual  about  the  -i/e  nf  a  lari^e  cat,  but 
in  >-h:iji<  riion-  r-  -embliiiL'  a  pi'j;  - -wa-  the  chid  bu-iiie-..-  of  men 
and  !"••.-  alon^  tic-  r>'d\  bank-.  In  thi-  »iii'jiilar  -|Mirt  ihev 
•-•  t  li.'  •  lo  a  ma--  "I"  reed-,  and.  a  rim  '  1  \\  it  h  -Ink-,  -pear-,  bo\s  - 
and  an  "  \  -,  -land  in  'jr-'iip-  •juar<lin_'  t  he  oijl  le|-  through  whieli 
'  i!i,t\  i  mi  troin  t  he  apjiri>:ic)iii|Hr  tlainc-..  I  'ark  , 

»)'     1 1 11 1 -eliet  ral  lie     -llloKe     IP  ,\\     f"!  1    "\  'T    '  'II    t  lie    lee 

'  :,  asid  -lii-oii. 1  the  hunter-.       At   time-  va-t  -h-ej- 


SCENES   OX   THE    ROVUMA.  \$4\ 

»f  lurid  flames  bursting  forth,  roaring,  crackling  and  exploding, 
leap  wildly  far  above  tlie  tall  reeds.  Out  rush  the  terrified 
animals,  and  amid  the  smoke  arc  seen  the  excited  hunters  danc- 
ing about  with  frantic  gesticulations,  and  hurling  stick,  spear 
and  arrow  at  their  burned-out  victims.  Kites  hover  over  the 
smoke,  rcadv  to  pounce  on  the  mantis  and  locusts  as  they  spring 
from  the  fire.  Small  crows  and  hundreds  of  swallows  are  on 
eager  wing,  darting  into  the  smoke  and  out  again,  seixing  fugi- 
tive (lies.  S-ores  of  insects,  in  their  haste  to  escape  from  the 
fire,  jump  into  the  river,  and  the  active  fish  enjoy  a  rare  feast. 

Great  quantities  of  excellent  honey  are  collected  along  the 
river  by  bark  hives  placed  for  the  bees  on  high  trees  which  line 
the  banks.  A  lew  pieces  of  coal  were  also  picked  up.  And 
there  was  little  doubt  that,  but  for  the  slave-trade,  which  finds 
one  of  its  principal  outlets  eastward  through  this  section,  tin- 
people  would  be  easily  led  to  higher  grades  of  being.  And  it 
was  equally  evident  that  they  occupied  a  country  which  would 
repay  with  its  offerings  all  the  attention  which  friendly  nations 
might  bestow  on  its  benighted  occupants.  But  the  Rovuma  is 
less  promising  as  an  avenue  to  the  interior  than  the  Shire  or 
the  Zambesi,  and  the  expedition  was  constrained  to  give  up  tin- 
hope  of  reaching  the  lake,  by  that  route,  and  returned  again  to 
the  Zambesi  to  battle  again  with  the  ills  thev  knew. 

They  ascended  the  Shire,  in  .January,  18(Jo,  and  passed  along 
amidst  the  dreadful  traces  of  the  recent  ravages  of  Mariano,  who 
was  again  in  the  field  as  "  the  great  Portuguese  slave  agent." 
Dead  bodies  floated  past  them  daily,  and  in  the  mornings  the 
paddles  had  to  be  cleared  of  the  corpses  caught  bv  the  floats 
during  the  night.  For  scores  of  miles  the  entire  population  of' 
the  valley  had  been  swept  awav  bv  the  inhuman  agent  of  a 
government  called  civilixed,  called  Christian.  It  made  the 
heart  ache  to  see  the  wide-spread  desolation  ;  the  river  banks, 
once  so  populous,  all  silent  ;  the  villages  burned  down,  and  an 
oppressive  stillness  reigning  when-  formerly  crowds  of  eau'er 
sellers  appeared  with  the  various  products  of  their  indiMrv. 
Here  and  there  might  be  seen  on  the  bank  a  small,  dreary, 
deserted  shed,  where  had  sat,  dav  after  dav,  a  starving  fi.-ln-r- 
man,  until  the  rising  waters  drove  the  fish  from  their  wonted 
haunts,  and  left  him  to  die.  Tingane  had  been  defeated  ;  his 


:>42  DESOLATION    ON    THE    SHIRE. 

jx-ople  had  Ut-n  killed,  kidnap{*-d,  and  ton  til  to  flee  from  their 
villages.  Tiit-re  were  a  few  wretched  survivors  in  11  village 
alx>ve  tin-  lino;  hut  the  majority  of  the  |K>jmlation  was  dead. 
The  -ijjht  ami  smell  t.f  dead  IwHlio  were  everywhere.  Manv 
per-on-  lav  beside  tin  path,  where  in  their  weakness  thev  had 
fallen  and  expired.  <iha-tly  living  (onus  of  hoys  and  prls, 
with  dull,  d»-ad  eve-,  were  crouching  beside  same  of  the  huts. 
A  ti-\v  more  miserable  day-  of  their  terrible  hunger,  ami  thev 
would  be  with  the  dead.  N\  «>rd-  could  not  convey  an  adequate 
idea  of  the  -<-ene  of  wide-spread  desolation  which  the  once  ple;is- 
ant  va'.lev  of  the  Shin-  presented.  Instead  of  smiling  villages 
and  crowd-  of  people  coming  with  tiling  for  .-ale,  M -in -civ  a 
soul  wa-  to  he  ~<-«'n  ;  and  when  hv  chance  one  liijhtitl  on  a 
native,  hi-  trami-  hnr<-  the  imprc— .  «>t  hunger,  and  \n>  <-ounte- 
nanec  tlir  Iinik  of  a  crin^in^  lifoken-spiritiHlncss.  A  drought 
had  vi-i:«-d  the  land  alt'T  tin-  slave-hunting  panic  swept  over  it. 
Lar'_r'-  ma»-e-  «>f  p«  oplc  had  Hi1*!  down  to  the  Shire,  only 
anxioii-  to  'ji-t  the  river  iM-twet'ii  them  and  their  enemies.  Mo-t 
of  the  ti> •  »1  had  IM-CH  left  hehind;  and  famine  and  starvation  had 
rut  oil'  -o  inaiiv  that  the  remainder  were  too  fe\\  to  Imrv  the 
dead.  The  corp-e-  *>-<n  floating  doun  the  river  were  onlv  a 
remnant  of  ih<.-.-  that  had  peri-lied,  \\hoiu  their  friend-,  from 
weakn •--,  c.Mild  not  hury,  nor  over-^orj^i-tl  enM-iMliles  «lcvour. 
It  i-  true  that  famine  eau-ed  a  <_ri"eat  portion  of  thi--  wa.-tc  of 
human  life  ;  Imt  tin-  -!a\e-trade  \\a-  deeine<|  the  chief  ai_'ent  in 
the  ruin.  Thi-  few  wretched  -nrvivor-  were  overjMiwentl  \<\  an 
apathetic  Ictharu'v.  Tliev  attempted  >careel\-  anv  cultivation, 
\\hieh,  f. >r  people  -o  i_MVen  to  a/rn 'ii  1 1 (i iv  a-  thev  are,  \\a-  vcrv 
retiiarkalili* ;  thev  were  .-ecu  daily  devouring  the  corn-stalks 
\\hi--h  ha' I  -prnirj  up  in  the  old  plantation-,  and  whi'li  \\onld, 
if  let  a!"!!'-,  have  \-|elde-l  corn  in  a  month.  'I  hev  c..nld  not  l>o 
arou-.-d  lV"!n  their  h-lhartrv.  Kamine  l>eniiinl>-  all  the  taenl- 
vi>--.  Tie-  ']'•  >r\  wa-  made  to  iudtici*  -nine  (..  c\ert  t  hein-i  I  \  i ••• 
t'.o.  I,  I. ut  1'ailed.  Thev  had  !<-t  all  their  former 
.\ltli  lacklll-tre  eVi--,  M-ircely  Ill'itm^r  those  oj  their 

in  whining    ton.--,  repln-d    to   evi-rv  jUMjio-ition    lor 
then-  !,.•!!.  lit  — "  N...  no  !  '       i".|/ .'  <ti  !  "  \ 

Ilnman    -!.'l'i"ii^    \\<r<-    ^-en    in    everv    diretMion,    and    it  \\;\« 
painiullv  int» -r«  -inij-   to   oli-erve  the  dillerent  j»>-»liire-  in  which 


OUAVK   OF    BISHOP    MACKENZIE.  .'543 

:he  |MM>r  wretches  )i:ul  breathed  their  last.  A  whole  heap  \i;\<\ 
been  thrown  down  n  slope  behind  a  village,  where  tin-  fugitive* 
often  crowed  the  river  from  the  cast  ;  and  in  <»ne  hut  of  tho 
same  village  no  fewer  than  twenty  drums  had  been  collected, 
probably  the  ferryman's  fees.  .Many  had  ended  their  mi-erv 
under  shadv  trees,  others  under  projecting  crags  in  the  hillsv 
while  others  lav  in  their  hut-,  with  closed  doors,  which,  when 
opened,  disclosed  the  mouldering  corpse  with  the  poor  rags 
round  the  loins — the  skull  fallen  oil' the  pillow — the  little  skel- 
eton of  the  child,  that  had  perished  first,  rolled  up  in  a  mat 
between  two  large  skeletons.  The  sight  of  this  desert,  but 
eighteen  months  ago  a  well-peopled  vallev,  now  literallv  strewn 
with  human  bones,  forced  the  conviction  that  the  destruction  of 
human  life  in  the  middle  passage,  however  great,  constituted 
but  a  small  portion  of  the  waste,  and  left  no  grounds  for  hope 
that  a  lawful  commerce  might  bo  established  until  the  slave- 
trade,  which  had  so  long  brooded  over  Africa,  should  be  put 
down. 

In  the  midst  of  these  shocking  scenes  the  party  vi.-ited  the 
grave  of  good  Bishop  Mackenzie.  lie  had  given  his  heart  in 
sincerity  to  Africa,  and  it  was  sorrowful  indeed  to  know  that  <•'! 
the  fond  and  noble  hopes  which  bad  clustered  round  him  as  be 
left  the  classic  grounds  of  Cambridge  were  all  buried  in  a  pla  e 
so  wild  and  so  desolate.  ]\\\{  on  what  nobler  altar  can  a  in:  i 
lay  down  his  life?  Who  shall  talk  of  "  waste  of  precious  live-,  ' 
which  are  sacrificed  in  earrving  the  gospel  of  Christ  to  the 
heathen,  since  "Christ  has  died?"  Who  knows  l.ut  those  win 
fall  soonest,  and  in  the  severest  trials,  shall  in  the  la-t  day  be 
allowed  to  lead  up  the  hosts  of  Christ's  ransomed  ones  out  of 
the  ends  of  the  earth  to  the  throne  of  the  King? 

There  was  now  added,  to  the  difficulties  which  had  existed 
before,  the  disadvantage  of  having  to  bring  all  supplies  from  the 
Zambesi.  It  was  impossible  to  purchase  food.  To  accomplish 
much  tinder  such  circumstances  was  impossible  ;  and  the  onlv 
plan  which  ofl'ered  anything  like  success  \\-as  to  pass  the  rapids 
and  get  among  the  tribes  dwelling  about  the  foot  of  the  lake, 
who  had  been  exempt  from  the  ravages  which  had  made  a 
desert  of  the  valley. 

In  the  midst  of  preparations  for  this  journey  a  despatch  was 


..14  HOMEWARD. 

retvived  from  Earl  Russoll  containing  instructions  for  the  with- 
drawal of  the  exjxilition,  and  there  could  be  but  little  else 
attempted  during  the  short  time  which  must  elapse  before  the 
condition  of  the  river  would  justify  the  attempt  to  take  the 
"  Pioneer"  down  to  the  sea.  The  work  of  the  expedition  had 
come  to  IK-  little  U'tter  than  a  struggle  with  the  slave-trade. 
The  breaking  up  of  that  evil  was  the  absorbing  idea  of  the 
memU-rs  of  it.  It  could  hardly  have  been  otherwise.  The 
humanity  of  Englishmen  and  Christians  could  but  arise  against 
sti'-h  harbaritus  as  confronted  them  in  every  path  they  selected. 
The  -hort  journey  to  the  northwest,  which  extended  as  far  as 
the  village  of  Chinanga,  on  the  banks  of  a  branch  of  the 
I/»angwa,  only  deej>ened  the  conviction  of  the  utter  hojH-hss- 
i.'-s  of  all  enterprise  which  might  seek  the  improvement  of  the 
j  -up!"  and  the  utilization  of  the  countrv  until  the  laud  should 
I  r  relieved  of  the  fatal  traflic  which  flourished  everywhere  by 
t  ic  patronage  of  Portugal. 

It  is  no  wonder  that  I>r.  Livingstone  turned  again  toward 
the  s»-a  with  anything  but  friendlv  feelings  toward  a  iroyern- 
ment  who-e  "dug  in  the  manger"  spirit  had  made  six  precious 
year*, year-  (>f  pain  and  comparative  disappointment. 


Ml-vlM.V    .  JIATl.l.    UN    1JIK 


CHAPTER    XX. 

THE    RKGIXXIX(!    OK    THE    EXD. 

Zarnl>esi  Expedition  Unsatisfactory — Zanzibar  —  Trade  from  Zanzibar — Tin 
Outfit  — Hoviiina  Hay—  Kindany — The  Makondc— Remarkable  Vegetation  — 
Cutting  Right  Valiantly— Rage  for  IWtorship — Mohammedan  Influence — 
Lying  Guides — Along  the  Iloviuna — Troubles  with  Follower!* — (ium-Copal 
Tree  —  Extravagant  Tattooing — Top  of  the  Fashion — At  Xyoniano— The  Slave- 
Trade — The  Makoa — A  Woman  Rescued  —  Horrors  of  the  Trade  in  Slaves — 
Currency  for  Africa — Extracts  from  Journal — A  Deserted  Village — A  Model 
Town  of  Africa. 

XOROPY  was  thoroughly  satisfied  with  the  Zambesi  expedi- 
tion. It  had  cost  considerable  sums  of  money,  much  previous 
time  had  been  consumed,  and  some  vcrv  valuable  lives  had  been 
sacrificed,  while  comparatively  little  progress  had  been  made  in 
finding  out  the  country,  the  anticipations  of  advantageous  com- 
mercial relations  greatly  disappointed,  and  missionary  enthu- 
siasm discouraged.  There  were  however  some  important  dis- 
coveries made:  the  fruitful  ness  of  the  soil  was  confirmed,  the 
mineral  resources  much  more  accurately  ascertained,  and  thr 
real  enemy  of  African  civilization  brought  more  distinctly  into 
view.  There  was  certainly  no  want  of  patient  and  heroic  labor, 
brave  endurance  and  wise  counsel.  In  none  of  the  record-;  of 
his  noble  life  have  we  been  more  impressed  with  the  real  great- 
ness of  David  Livingstone  than  in  reviewing  the  journal-  of  the 
wearying,  unsatisfactory  years  of  this  expedition.  The  difficul- 
ties with  which  he  contended  were  onlv  recognized  bv  him 
when  human  energy  could  do  no  more,  and  even  then  he  sus- 
pended his  labors  only  in  obedience  to  the  authority  which  he 
represented. 

The  little  time  which  he  allowed  himself  at  home  wa<  hardly 
a  season  of  rest.  Besides  the  preparation  of  his  ''  Zambesi  Ex- 
pedition "  for  the  press,  he  felt  constrained  to  do  all  in  his  power 

in  those  few  months  to  revive  the  popular  interest  in  the  Afri- 

3-15 


3-10  ARRIVAL    AT   ZANZIBAR. 

can  question,  ami  to  arouse  jx>j)ular  <entirn»'nt  against  the  African 
hlave-trade,  which  he  had  Ix-en  tom-d  to  nvo^ni/.e  as  the  most 
Stubborn  and  [xjwerful  enemv  of  all  those  schemes  of  U-nevo- 
lence  which  were  .-prinpn;^  up  in  the  in  -art.-  of  ( 'hri.-tian-  for  that 
unfavored  land.  1  he  days  were  full  of  labor  and  anxietv,  and 
jias-ed  rapidly. 

( );i  tlie  14th  of  August,  1865,  Livingstone  left  Kn<;land  for 
the  third  and  last  time,  under  commission  as  Hritish  ( 'onsul  for 
(Vntral  Afrieu.  Hi-  reached  liomlmy  on  the  ;'>d  of  January, 
ISiJ'i,  ami  having  reeeived  cominemlatory  letter-  to  the  sul'.an 
of  /Can/:l>ar,  sailed  for  that  i.-land  in  the  "  Thule."  a  ve--vl  which 
was  -tut  as  a  pre>ent  to  the  Miltan  l>v  the  I'miiiliav  ^ovenuneiit. 
Twenty-three  days  were  nipim-d  I'm-  the  pa^>a^e,  and  on  the 
-Mh  of  Janiiarv  the  >hip  eiitere<l  the  harlior  ol'  //m/iliar.  I>r. 
Livinjj-tom- w:is  shown  all  pi---il,le  rope<t,  and  the  sultan  in)' 
mediatrlv  put  one  of  \\\^  own  hou-.»^  at  hi-  di-]>o-al.  Snu<jlv 
etxi.ne.  d  in  this  tnnjMirarv  home,  he  had  a  little  time  to  look 
alxnit  him,  and  complete  his  preparations  tor  the  interior. 

Xan/il':ir  i-»  the  Ua^dad,  the  I-jtahan,  the  StainUm!,  if  von 
like,  nf  Ma.-t  Afriea.  It  i-  the  e;reat  mart  uhi<h  in\  itts  the 
iv-Tv  trader-  from  the  Afrii-an  interior.  To  this  market  mine 
the  |;um-4f>|>a!,  the  hides,  the  orehilln,  the  timlnT,  and  the  lilaek 
slav- -  iV'itn  Atrie;i.  The  population  ol'  the  i.-land  hardly  ex- 
ceed- tw<>  hundred  thousand  ;  alxtut  halt'  of  thi>  numU'r  re>ide 
in  the  i  itv.  The  higher  and  middle  ela--es  are  represented  hv 
the  Ara!>-,  the  IJanvans,  and  the  Mohammeilau  Hindis;  Iwlow 
lhi~e  there  a  re  the  half-<-a-tes  and  the  ne^ro.  Then-  are,  hoides 
th'-e  ela-~<-,  a  nuniln-r  of  Anu*ri«"in  and  KurojH^in  residi-nts. 
Th'  -•  are  mainlv  government  otlieia!-,  thoii_rli  a  numlxT  t>i  in- 
d-  \»  ii'l-  nl  in- reliant-  an<l  audits  of  ^p-at  mepeantile  h"ii-e.-  in 
K u rope  and  America  have  their  home-  in  the  -trance  -urrounil- 
in_'-  o|'  th>  -tra!i^e-t  of  town-.  I  lie  Aral'-  "1  /an/il>ar  are 
Aral.-,  pi-f  a-  they  Would  IM-  anvuhen-  <>n  earth.  I  ne  Aril) 
II-A-'  r  •  !i :m_'< •-  ;  \\h--rever  he  <^»<-~  he  carrii  -  the  eu-toms,  dre— , 
and  eh.ir.iet.-n-tic  pi-eiiliaritie,  \\hi.-h  di-tin jn:-h  the  e\acte-t 
r< -pre-en'a1  ;\  -  -  o|  h>  race  in  their  own  emint n---.  Nearlv  all 
o! '  t !io-r  \\  ho  ar-  -•  •  n  in  /an/il»ar  arc  e\perienc. •.  1  i  nivrlh-rs,  and 
th«  ;r  verv  eoiinti-naiiee...  and  carriage  tell  of -trance  and  jx-rilou* 
ftdvontureM  and  habitual  wariin-.-vi  and 


TUADK    AT    ZAN/IKAR.  ;;J7 

The  principal  traders,  however,  of  Zan/ibar  seem  to  lx-  the 
Hniiyans.  Many  of  these  have  accumulated  great  wealth,  ami 
it  is  in  their  power  to  take  advantage  of  the  poorer  native-  who 
come  into  their  hands  with  their  fruits  or  ivory,  ju-t  a-  th<-  rich 
inav  wrong  the  poor  anywhere.  The  negro  is  the  laboring  man 
of  the  island,  and  the  lialf-ejiMc  is  the  niseal. 

The  partienlar  line  of  trade  which  attracts  the  attention  of 
the  Kuropean  traveller  most  anxiously  is  that  of  the  -lave  mar- 
ket-. It  taxes  the  credulity  of  the  most  skeptical  to  accept  the 
statements  of  even  the  most  reliable  travellers  concerning  the 
enormous  profits  which  tempt  so  powerfully  the  unscrupulous 
to  this  barbarous  business.  Mr.  Stanley,  who  looked  about  hiir 
with  the  eyes  of  an  accomplished  reporter  for  one  of  th--  m«/ . 
careful  journals  of  our  time,  has  in  his  book  a  paragraph  whi<  h 
puts  the  matter  most  tellingly:  "  We  will  suppose,"  savs  h<-, 
"for  the  sake  of  illustrating  how  trade  with  the  interior  is  mai  - 
aged,  that  the  Arab  conveys  by  his  caravan  §5000  worth  «'' 
goods  into  the  interior.  At  Unyanyembe  the  goods  are  worl'i 
$10,000;  at  Ujiji  they  are  worth  $15,00<\  or  have  trebled  in 
price.  £7.00  will  purchase  a  slave  in  the  markets  of  I'jiji, 
\vhich  will  bring,  in  Zan/ibar,  ?->0.  Ordinarv  men-.-lavs 
inav  be  purchased  for  £<>  which  would  sell  lor  8:20  on  the. 
coast.  We  will  say  he  purchases  slaves  to  the  full  extent  of  his 
means.  After  deducting  $1000  for  expenses  of  carriage  to 
I'jiji  and  back — vi/.,  £.'iO<M> — he  would  buy,  at  87.  OO  each,  four 
hundred  and  sixty-four  .-laves,  on  which  he  would  realize 
8l-'U'-0  on  an  investment  of  800t>0,  or  nearly  S'.HKHJ  net  profit 
lor  a  single  journey  from  Zan/ibar  to  I'jiji."  At  the  slave 
market  at  Zan/ibar,  Dr.  Livingstone  found  three  hundred  slaves 
exposed  ii>r  sale,  the  greater  part  of  whom  had  come  from  Lake 
Nva-sa  and  the  Shire  river.  One  of  the  women  retwmbered 
hearing  of  his  passing  up  the  lake  in  a  boat,  but  he  found  none 
in  the  company  whom  he  had  .-ce'.i  before.  The  patience  of  the 
man  who-e  heart  had  been  so  long  set  for  the  lifting  up  of 
Africa  was  hardlv  increased  bv  the  -eenes  which  came  so  tre- 
(juentlv  before  him  in  the.-e  market-.  He  sav>  that  "thi.-cuf 
the  .-laves  who  were  old  ciioiiLi'li  to  comprehend  their  situation 
seemed  greatly  ashamed  at  being  hawked  about  for  sale.  Their 
teeth  were  examined,  the  cloth  which  they  wore  was  raided  up 
21 


;^  TIM:  OI-TFIT  FOR  KXPF.DITIOX. 

that  their  lower  liml>s  might  l>e  examined,  and  a  stick  was 
1'i-M-d  fur  tin-  slave  to  bring  that  In-  might  exhibit  his  paces. 
<  hher-  wen-  draped  through  the  crowd  l>v  tin-  hand,  while  the 
;'!••'•'•  wa-  inee--  aiiily  calif"  1  »>ut.  The  purchasers  of  these  un- 
iia;>;iy  l».-i:i^-  were  mostly  northern  Arabs  and  Persians." 

Il.it  entertaining  a-  the  s<-eu<s  of  that  strange  citv  must  lx»  to 
1:1  i;itelii'j< -tit  traveller,  I);-.  LivingMone  walked  its  streets  with 
heart  :i:nl  mind  a!)<nrlxtl  with  a  irrea:«T  work  than  that  of  an 
•  :-'i!:i:irv  «>l»s<TVer,  an«l  evn-v  moment  of  time  spent  in  Xan/ihar 
\\asciivutfil  lor  th'-  dearer  \\orU  he  ha'l  to  do  in  the  heart  of  the 
_'!••  at  <-"'.it Inent  who-'-  dark  oinlin.-  \vas  on!v  a  li-\s'  milts  a\vav. 

Having  lii'.allv  arranp-d  \vith  Koorje,  a  1'anvan,  to  send  a 
-!i|i|il\"  o!'!it-ad-,  eloth,  tlonr.  tea.  eo!l'ee.  and  su^ar,  to  I'jiji,  on 
Lake  Tairanvika,  to  the  (-u-"  of  an  Aralt  living  there,  <-.ille<l 
Thani  liin  Sii.-lim,  and  having  perfectnl  other  arrangements  for 
!ii-  joiirnev,  Liviir^stone  to,.!;  I.-av«-  of  the  generous  sultan  and 
otlr-r  frii-nd-  on  t  lie  inland.  I  !••  had  seeure«l  a  <!/t»ir,  one  of  the 
i-oa-tin^  v.---i  !-  of  Ivi-t  Afrii-a,  f-.r  trail-port  ing  the  animals  li.r 

the  e\pi-d!t  ion  ;    of  the-C  tliefe  Were     -i\     <-aillels,   three     luiflaltMS 

a:id  a  ea!f,  f\o  mule-  and  four  dolikevs.  His  attendants  were 
tiiirt--'  :i  S. •{>"'.-.,  t''ii  Johanna  ni'-n.  nine  Nas>iek  lxi\--;,  two  Shn- 
pan_ra  men.  and  Wakalani  and  ( 'hnma,  two  \Vavan-,  Kovs  \vlio 
had  Li-en  ii!n-rated  from  the  >la\crs  l»v  the  diM-tor  and  I>i-hop 
Ma'-ken/i.-  in  !><!!,  and  had  .-pent  three  years  with  the  mi  — ion 
par!v  at  ('lii!>i-a.  Several  othi  r-  of  the  mm  hail  l><-en  with  l>r. 
L  v::!'_'-fone  ni  In-  loriii'-r  expedition*.  Mu-a.  a  Johanna  man, 
\vi-  a  -ai!or  on  th"  "  Ladv  Nva— a  Su-i,"  and  Amoda  had  ren- 
,  1, -j-.il  -, -i  \  i' -e  »n  the  '•  I'ioiieer.  '  'I  he  Na--Jek  lad-  \\ere  all  entire 
-tranter-,  and  had  K,-en  traiii'-d  in  India. 

I',\-  th«-  l.indii'--  of  Lieut, -nant  (  Jarforth,  the  doef,,r  and  hi- 
f'!!o'.\'!'-  \\'f-  o(],  j-i-d  pa--a-^e  to  the  nioii'h  "t  th'1  IJoyiima  in 
t!i,  -lilji  "  I',  ;i  jnin,"  and  under  date nf  Mar-  h  I  !'th,  1  Silt!,  \\  e  find 
th'-  ''j" ':::!„'  'nt r:i!i-  ••  in  the  journal  of  (hi-  expi-dit iojj,  towanl 
\\  !ii'-h  t !:••  I'Vi-i  i  >!  the  world  turned  -o  lon-j-  and  an \iou-ly,  in  a 
f.'W  \\ord-  f-i'l  of  (I,,-  -j.irit  of  the  LM-,-at  and  •:<•,. d  man:  "  \\'e 
-!ar!  th:-  morniir.:  at  I"  \.M.  I  trn-!  tha'  tlf  Mo-t  lliu'h  may 
pr  ,-p-  r  hi--  in  th.-  \\orK,  ^rai.'ni'j'  ni''  influenee  in  the  t-\-,--  of 
t!i'>  h-athin,  and  h« -!pin^  me  to  make  my  interculirsc  U-iiefiei:iJ 
U>  them." 


ROVt'MA    HAY.  ?,49 

On  the  22<1  they  reached  Rovuma  bay,  and  anchored  alx>ut 
two  inilis  from  the  month  of  the  river,  in  five  fathom-  water. 
Two  or  three  days  careful  inspection  of  the  river  and  the  neigh- 
boring lands  was  enough  to  reveal  the  fact  that  there  would  be 
very  great  difficulty  in  <-onveying  the  animals  to  the  interior  hv 
that  route,  and,  following  the  advice  of  Lieutenant  (Jarfbrth  and 
the  captain  of  the  dhow,  the  party  turned  hack  to  Mikindanv 
hay,  which  lies  twenty-five  miles  north  of  Rovuma,  and  on  the 
evening  of  the  '21  th  landed  all  the  animals  and  hade  farewell  to 
the  nohle  gentleman  who  had  so  kindly  assisted  them  with  his 
ship.  Our  great  traveller  was  now  once  more  safely  on  African 
soil,  and  the  great  sea  ebbing  and  flowing  heedlesslv  between 
him  and  the  sympathies  and  affection  of  all  who  could  in  an\ 
sort  appreciate  his  noble  self-sacrifice  or  comprehend  the  nature 
and  importance  of  his  undertakings.  ]»ut  he  was  inured  t<>  tin-- 
dangers, the  privations,  the  loneliness  and  toils  of  travel.  Ib 
was  self-reliant,  and  needed  little  else  than  the  freedom  to  look 
up  to  give  him  confidence.  He  did  not  underrate  the  difficul- 
ties of  African  travel,  lie  knew  them  too  well  ;  but  it  was  hi- 
thcorv  that  "  the  sweat  of  one's  brow  is  DO  longer  a  curse  when 
one  "works  for  God,"  and  he  had  become  accustomed  to  appp1- 
ciate  severe  exertion  because  it  enhanced  the  charms  of  repose. 

The  town  of  Kindany,  as  a  starting  point  for  a  great  expedi- 
tion, was  no  better  than  no  place  ;  the  onlv  advantage  it  oil! n-1 
was  that  which  would  have  existed  as  well  had  there  been  i/  > 
town  there.  The  harbor  is  described  as  unsurpassed,  if  iinlt .  1 
it  i<  equalled,  bv  any  on  the  coast.  It  is  entered  bv  a  deep 
narrow  channel,  and  inside,  sheltered  bv  semicircular  highlands, 
is  the  deep  bav,  about  two  miles  square,  where  ve-sels  enjov 
uncommon  seeuritv  from  the  winds  which  so  often  fall  merei- 
lesslv  on  the  small  coasting  ship-  of'  the  region.  There  are  a 
number  of  houses  lyiu<j;  alonir  tin-  bav,  small  square  structures 
of  wattle  and  daub;  hut  there  would  be  no  evidence  that  the 
harbor  had  been  in  use,  or  even  known  before  the  recent  settle- 
ment of  its  present  claimant-,  it'  a  few  lingering  ruins  had  not 
endured  the  wear  of  centuries  with  their  hint-  of  an  old  time. 
Tlu1  people  who  live  in  the  small  square  house< — the  pn-eiit 
Kindanians— are  the  poorest  possible  specimen-:  of  the  </>•,•/>/.<» 
homo,  "  the  low-coast  Arabs,  three-quarters  African."  They  arc 


350  KIM'ANY. 

after  a  fashion  the  subjects  of  Xan/ihar  ;  tin  ir  janiiln  acknowl- 
edges the  authority  of  the  -nltan,  and  tlu-ir  insignificant  customs 
are  pp-id.-d  o\-»-r  hy  an  "tli'-'-r  from  Xan/ibar. 

The  animal-  whu-h  had  iHt-n  eonvevwl  to  the  coast  in  the 
dhow  were  '•  >n-iderab!y  knocked  up  hv  the  voyage,  and  some 
time  e!ap-ed  while  they  were  getting  over  their  wounds  and 
!>nii-e~  and  fatigue.  The  dekiv  was  put  in  Usefully,  however, 
in  tli--  manufacture  of  camels'  .-addle-  and  repairing  those  for 
th'-  mu!'-  and  huflaloes. 

Nature  has  IK -en  more  lavi-h  of  her  favor>  at  Kindany  than 
at  other  points  alon^  the  coast.  The  land  is  higher,  and  the 
-oil  i-  a!m"-t  half  <-oral.  "  <  'oral  Px-k  underlies  the  whol 
pla.-e,"  and  the  rill-  in  thi-  rock  atl'ord  Lrn"d  water.  A  dens  r 
tropical  vegetation  prevails  on  «-ver\-  hand,  and  conspicuous  i  i 
th"  variou-  wonders  "fit  -tand-  the  great  baobab,  (ireat  nun  - 
her-  of  larje  -jame  are  -••'  n  about  th>-  iiumepni-  water-jwMiN, 
and  tin-  nominal  trader-  "f  the  town  have  ->  little  indu-trv  th.a 
then-  i-  hardlv  anything  to  p-li'-ve  the  heathendom  1-n.k  of  tl  •.- 
r.-_'ion. 

Aft'-r  enjovin^  innurneralile  promi-es  of  -ervii-c  withoi,1 
p'-'iymir  the  -lighte-t  a--:-taiiei-.  Living-tone  ,-e(  out  on  ht- 
io-irii'-y,  1"  •'.  ri;i'j  -"ii"  li'\  ard  in  tin-  dire<-ti"!i  of  the  KOVUIUU 
'[-.•  r,  with  a  Somali'-  uuid'-.  ^\\i"  wa-  to  ree.-iyi-  twenty  dollais 
for  tak;:i_'  him  a-  far  a-  Nvomano,  the  confluence  of  the  I^oendi 

An  eijefnv  wliieh  the  doctor  had  hojMil  to  c-ca|M-  on  thi-  route 
v.  i-  in  waiM!i_r  for  him.  and  Ix-lop-  he  had  travelled  a  do/en 

m:!e-  i?   wa-  a--'  I'tain.  d    that   th--  l>uil!ilo.-~  and  eani'  I-  had    h'-ei: 

h'rt'-n   l>v  th'-    '-•'.-•.      Th«-    |>i'".:r«  --  wa-   painfully  -low  at    l>e-t, 

i  .  I   i'   '.\  M  -  a  matt'-r  of   -i-riiiii-    anxietv  t..  In-  t  hreat'-ii'-d  with    -o 

••••a'  a  di'-'i-t'-r  a-  th"  I---  "f  hi-  animal-  -••  i-arlv  in  the  joiirney. 

I'   :n  '  !i:Mi-<  'f  Tin-i-d  to  e.-nii"!-.  it  upa-  !!'•'•'  ~-ar\   !->  intru-t  tln-m 

almo-t    1'iyireJv.  and    it    \\a-    -non    apparent    they 

-    i-xi-. --diii'jly    eap-'.---    "t'   th"    eomf,  ,rt    and    -afefy    of   th--ir 

\  I  1.   1     to    'hi-    -true     to    th"     familiar     maxim,    that 

'•  »ro'i'.'.' -  n-  •  •  r  •  o-n,.  >-in-_'lv  "      »).,.    p-ad    t  h-  \-   had   t"  make  lay 

?h:-o'i_;)i    d'-n-"    !'i-i_'!--.   wh"p-    th"    a\e  mn-t   do  it-   u-.rk    I'.-t'ore 

th  •  '-nil'-1-  a1:  !   I'-ilVa'"   -  --o-rd  po--ili]v  advance. 

T!i'-na''-. ip-in'-.-i    th],    r- ji"ii  ;\r<-    known  a»  Makoiidc, 


THK    MAKOXDE.  '.''t\ 

Their  numbers  have  botMi  greatly  diminished  by  the  .slave-trade; 
only  a  remnant,  comparatively,  of  them  are  left.  Here  and 
there  the  traveller  emerged  suddenly  mi  a  little  clearing  adorned 
with  gardens  of  sorghum,  mai/e  and  ca->ava.  The  people  wero 
mneh  more  interested  in  the  strange  animals  of  the  unexpected 
visitors  than  in  the  human  members  of  the  cavalcade;  even  tlu; 
white  man  himself  did  not  attract  such  attention  as  the  ungainly 
«imels.  The  Makonde  proved  themselves  a  pica-ant  people 
and  industrious,  ready  to  turn  an  hone-t  vard  of  calico  a-  wood- 
choppers  or  carriers.  They  have  been  the  prey  of  the  Arabs 
from  Zanzibar,  just  as  their  neighbors  lower  down  the  coast 
have  been  the  prcv  of  the  Portuguese.  They  have  no  common 
government.  There  is  no  paramount  chief  whose  authority  is 
reeogni/ed.  They  are  all  independent,  and  bear  them.-elvcs 
independently  enough.  Of  their  personal  appearance  Living- 
stone says :  "Their  foreheads  maybe  called  compact,  narrow, 
and  rather  low;  the  <thr  na*i  expanded  laterally;  lips  lull,  not 
excessively  thick  ;  limbs  and  body  well  formed,  hands  and  feet 
small  ;  color  dark  and  light  brown  ;  height  middle  si /til  and 
bearing  independent."  Their  language  is  very  unlike  that  of 
the  half-castes  who  constitute  the  population  of  Kindanv, 
though  their  intercourse  with  the  Arabs  has  extended  consider- 
able familiarity  with  Swaheli  among  the  Makonde.  The 
foreign  influence  has  done  nothing  toward  the  enlightenment  of 
the  natives.  There  was  the  ruin  of  a  mosque  seen  at  Kindanv; 
but  the  Arabs  are  in  the  country  for  gain  ;  they  mingle  with  the 
natives  in  the  most  intimate  relations;  there  is  no  tradition  of 
their  attempting  to  convert  them.  The  natives  might  congratu- 
late themselves,  however,  on  the  remi-.-ness  of  their  vi.-it«>rs  in 
this  regard;  for  if  Dr.  Livingstone  judged  rightlv,  African  bar- 
barism would  be  degraded  bv  the  assumption  of  Arab  virtues. 

The  trade  road,  which  is  a  path  onlv.  was  along  the  wadv*, 
frequently  as'-cmling  the  neighboring  heights  to  take  in  a  village, 
ami  down  again  to  another  by  the  drv  channel.  The  -nil  along 
the  route  was  remarkably  fertile.  As  thev  penetrated  the  eoini- 
trv,  some  of  the  ea--ava  bushes  were  -even  feet  hiu'h,  and  the 
pleasing  sight  of  really  heavy  crops  of'  sorghum  and  mai/e 
awaited  the  surprise  and  delight  of'  the  observer  at  everv  clear- 
ing. The  whole  region  bore  trace.-  of  ha  vim;  Ix-en  *>nru  and  in 


3T>2 


WON DEKFl* L    V K< i  KT ATION. 


a  state  of  cultivation  in  former  times.  There  is  a  uotiivabiu 
scarcity  of  larger  vegetation,  ami  the  den.-*',  matted,  scrubbv 
crop  which  resisted  their  progress  so  stubbornly  that  evrn  the 
native  choj>|>cni  sometime  were  almost  discouraged,  had  only 
sprung  up  sincv  the  slave-trade  had  done  its  devastating  work. 
S)inc  of  the  twining,  thorny  contestants  of  the  ground,  whieh 
annoyed  I>r.  Li\  ing-tone  mo-t  nninereifully,  suggested  a  little 
n-viTenec  for  Mr.  I>arwin'.i  hint>  about  vegetable  in>tinet.  One 
particularly  la-  >ai«l  "  ini^ht  be  likened  to  the  M-abbard  of  a 
diM-_r«Hin'>  .-unrd;  but  alon^  the  middle  of  the  flat  side  rniin  u 
rid^i-  Iroin  which  ,-jirin^-  ii|>  everv  ti-w  inches  a  bunch  of  ineh- 
l<m<{  .straight,  .-harp  thorn-.  It  hangs  .-truij^ht  Ibr  a  couple  of 
yard-;  but  as  if  it  could  not  thus  ^ive  it>  thorns  a  fair  chance 
of  inix'hicf,  it  suddenly  ben»U  on  it.-df,  and  all  its  cruel  |>oint.s 
arc  pp-« -utt-d  at  ri^r!it  angli-s.  with  their  tbrnier  position.  It 
se<'iii-  Ix-nt  on  rui-<-hii-t,  and  display.-  almost  malicious  delibera- 
tion in  haii^in^  out  it.-  cruel,  tangled  limb.-,  \\  liich  arc  sure  to 
intlict  .-M-veiT  injury  on  an  nnwarv  travt-ller.  (>tlier  climbers 
are  found  -o  t<iii^h  that  no  hand  can  break  them.  ( )ne  apjnar.-i 
at  it-  r«»otf  a  voini^  tree;  but  true  in  the  ^tmggling  habit-  of  it> 
•  •la-.-,  it-i  shoot.-  mav  U-  seen  liftv  or  sixty  feet  oil',  \\eaving 

thelU-)elve>   into  the  colllllloll    enl'da^e  of   the   llei^hl  M  il'liootl. 

"Another  elimbrr  i-  like  the  leaf  of  an  ;»loc,  but  convoluted 
sw  >lrangely  st-j  shavings  from  the  plane  of  a  carpenter.  It  j- 
dark  Lri''-'pu  in  enlm-,  and  when  it.-  bark  is  taken  off  it  is  heauti- 
Jull\-  striated  In-ncath,  lighter  and  darker  green,  like  [he  rin^-, 
of  gmwth  on  w<Mid  ;  -till  another  i-  a  thin  string  with  a  succes- 
sion of  large  knob-,  and  another  h;u-  it-  bark  pinched  up  all 
r»iind  at  interval-  -o  a-  to  piv-cnt  a  great  many  cutting  edge-. 
<  >!!••  -oil  need  -i-areelv  be  mentioned,  in  which  all  along  it- 
1-iigth  ar«-  -trong  bent  hi»ok-,  j.lace«l  in  a  way  that  will  huM 
ojie  i:  n  '-.in  but  'ji'appl--  \\ith  him,  for  that  i-  very  eomni"ii  ami 
ix.t  l!!v-  th-.-e  mentioned,  uhieh  the  rallfr  sei-in  to  be  -tragL,!'1!'.- 
ti  Min  the  earboniferou-i  p«-rio<|  uf  geologist-.,  when  pachydi-rtnata 
wrigjl-d  iin-i-.it h<  il  aiiKing  tanghil  ma--'-  \\<>r-<-  than  lhe-r. 

1  >;      I  .r,  ing -!-tn<     liad    <in|>!"Veil    about    ten    j<>llv    voting   Ma 


!'•[•  tlp-v  ai«-  a'-'  u-loini-d  l"  •  '!•  -aring  -|ia'-«  -  tor  garden-,  and  v\ent 
itt   ill-'    .-.  ..rk   -.siili  a  \\ill,  n-in_'    t»malia\\  k-  \\eli  adapte«l    |i/r   tin 


CUTTING    VALIANTLY.  .Ui 

work.  They  whittled  uway  right  manfully,  taking  an  ax« 
when  any  tre^  had  t<>  IK-  cut.  Their  pay,  arranged  Ix.'forchand, 
was  to  be  one  yard  of  calico  per  day  :  this  was  not  much,  -<  cin^ 
they  were  still  so  near  the  sea-coast.  Climbers  and  young 
trees  melted  before  them  like  a  cloud  before  the  MIII  ! 

They  no\v  l>egan  to  descend  the  northern  slope  down  t«i  the 
Royuina,  and  a  glimpse  could  occasionally  be  had  of  the  eoiin- 
trv  ;  it  see  nun!  coyered  with  great  masses  of  dark  green  flirot. 
but  the  undulations  occasionally  looked  like  hills,  and  IHTC  and 
there  a  stereulia  had  put  on  yellow  foliage  in  anticipation  of  the 
cunuiiiT  winter.  More  frequently  the  vision  was  eircnmscribed 
to  a  lew  vards  till  the  merry  wcxxlcuttcrs  made  the  pleasant 
scene  of  a  long  vista  (it  for  camels  to  pass:  as  a  whole,  the 
jungle  would  have  made  the  authors  of  the  natty  little  hints  to 
travellers  smile  at  their  own  productions,  good  enough,  perhaps 
where  one  has  an  open  country  with  trees  and  hills,  by  which 
to  take  bearings,  estimate  distances,  see  that  one  point  is  on  the 
same  latitude,  another  on  the  same  longitude  with  such  another, 
and  all  to  be  laid  down  fair  and  square  with  protractor  and 
compass;  but  popular  hints  hardly  hold  good  while  a  man  i- 
stniggling  for  existence  in  the  tangled  masses  of  rank  vegetation, 
which,  feeding  on  the  steamv,  smothering  nmistiire  from  the 
Indian  ocean,  springs  into  marvellous  luxuriance.  With  -iieli 
a  chance,  Livingstone  assures  us  one  might  as  well  talk  of 
taking  bearings  while  encased  in  a  hogshead  with  no  \\indow 
but  the  bung-hole  ! 

It  was  easier  to  find  out  the  people  and  to  record  such  mat- 
ters as  were  nearest  him.  Very  few  traces  of  coal  were  seen, 
but  the  doctor  mentions  having  seen  grav  sandstone  like  that 
which  is  often  found  underlying  that  important  article.  The 
villagers  generally  received  him  with  the  u.-ual  hospitality,  ex- 
changing gilts  and  kind  otlices.  The  head  men  of the-e  villages 
needed,  ot  course,  to  associate  some  special  power  with  them- 
selves, and,  as  is  commonly  the  ca>e,  a->unied  the  distinction  ot 
doctors.  Thev  were  not  so  confident,  however,  in  their  science. 
or  so  wedded  to  their  particular  school,  as  their  brethren  in  near 
climes,  as  was  evinced  by  the  readiness  with  which  they  dis- 
carded anv  possible  simples  when  they  had  the  opportunity  of 
benefiting  bv  the  treatment  of  the  white  man. 


^T>4  MullAMMKDAX    INKI.rKM  K. 

( >n  the  lltli  of  April  Livin-.j-t<»iir  led  his  party  down  to  the 
I-a'aks  of  the  \l»\  uma.  opj>o-ite  -o:ne  r«-.l  dill'-  and  near  whrre 
ilic  *' Pionwr  "  had  turned  l»a»-U  in  1^'il.  Tin-  next  day  was 
.'iiinlav,  ami  it-  n--t  \\a.-  v«  rv  -svect  imKntl,  though  tin-  traveller 
\\  a-  -o  far  an.iv  from  tin-  cheri-hed  (•(KniilUliion  of  th->-e  who 
with  him  mi_dtt  r.-j«>:«-c  in  the  \vur>hip  of  the  pvat  (imlaiul 
-weet  e.\|>erit  n<  •  •-  '»t  .Iik«u-'  lovf.  M"-t  of  liis  altciulaiii-  \v«-re 
Moliainiu'  «la:i~  in  naini- ;  ami  vvhilt-  thfir  faith  .-i-rvnl  a  \><>»r  |uir- 
JMI-I-,  -i>  tar  a~  th«'ir  hom-tv  and  trutltfilliu-ss  \\  a>  roacrnn-d.  it 
\va-  <l«-«'idid  rn<iti_rh  to  ilispttti*  alxtllt.  It  is  >o.u'.-iin»rs  the  ca>e 
in  other  ji!a<v-  that  the  n-li^iou  \\hich  peojilc  jm»li--  doc-  not 
a!iioiuit  to  anvthin^  nion-  than  a  fi;^htin^  matter.  llo\v  Mo- 
hamin'-dan  /eal  mav  kindle  and  ^rlo\v  was  -ecu  when  an  old  M«»n- 
vinko  head  man  pn-scntiti  the  party  with  a  ^(>at.  The  animal 
haying  heeii  ri-<-«'i\  ed,  it.-  e\.-eiitioii  wa.-  in  ord»  r.  Thi-  H-rvii-e 
\V;L-  oil'.-rcd  l>y  the  S-jm\--,  who  were  protvttlin^  to  cut  it-  throat 
r.fter  the  (•L-hion  in  their  country,  l»ut  the  .Johannes  were  ot' a 
<!  tli-rent  ~«  et  and  their  eived  ealled  \'«r  l\i<-  eiittiii'_r  "t"  a  Lr"at's 
tl  n>at  liy  aiH-th.-r  jiattern  than  that  in  u-e  |»y  their  .•1.-reli-ioni-t> 
of'  India.  The  opjMtrttinity  was  too  -..<.,!  to  lie  l.i-t.  and  a  tienv 
(I  <-pute  en~u>-d  bt'twifii  thc.-e  >eet>  a-  to  \\  hieh  \\ a-  the  ri^lit  .-ort 
.,.  M,,-l,-m. 

Ijiviii^-toru-  wa-  now  in  the  lined!' the  route  he  had  projevt«tl 
y  ai •-  iM-fori',  and  Iree  to  re-tune  the  undertaking  wlueh  had 
I  til  d  him  tli'-n  \\itliont  <li-iiiiira_Miiur  him.  II.-  \\a-  tr<<-r  than 
1  '  wa-  then,  and  unt  ram  me  lied  l>y  eonn-ellor-  •  >i-  -hi|i-.  !  \>-  mi^ht 
i  e  .-ailed  on  t.i  t-ndnr'-  hard-hi|i-,  I  Mil  he  <•.  mid  n<i:  iNM-iiuitnandeil 
;.p  I'Mini.  H«-  had  it-it  the  y>ufh  and  vijor  though  uhich  lta«l 
iiia-l--  Ki-  earlier  toil-  lighter  than  they  real's  \\efe,  th-iu_rh  th-A" 
••••  at'  d  han  I  elf  iii_r!i. 

I  i '  .in  1 1 1-  •  p"int  \\  iier,  •  he  reaeh«-d  th<-  Rciyiitna  he  led  hi-  party 
\\.  -!  .'.  i  I'd,  a  !«>n_'  the  -ide-  of  that  ra-_'--d  talile-  lan-1  v,  hi.-h  h--  had 
formerly  -••>  it  fr-im  th.-  riy--r  a-  llauk  in_r  l>->tli  -t-l---.  There  it 
upiH-ap'-l  a  ratr_'e  •.)'  lull-,  -liiiltne_r  in  the  |{-i\uma,  h-  !-•  -mly 
'pur-  \\eri-  -•  .  ii  juM  MI_'  <  '-i!  to  ,\  a  I'd  t  he  ri\'i-r.  ami  yalley-  r--t  inn_^ 
t-  yial  in;!--  inland.  *-  un-  :  in---  \S'!idin_'  tln-ir  \s:i\  around 
th<--'-  -I'M!-  a;:d  -"Hi'  'nit'  -  !«i;lm  '  n\er  |||.  m,  a\e  in  hand,  the 
o.i:t\'  advamed  1.  •  m--;i  %A  ho-e  mind-  \\-r-'  made  up;  tin-re  \\  a-* 
only  one  mind  \>>  ;h-  p;irt\  :  that  mind  \\a-  ma-le  uj>.  It  \\;u-<  a 


LYIMi    < 

rinppy  tiling  for  all  hands  that  there  was  no  scarcity  of  food 
along  the  jmth  ;  particularly  w:ts  it  a  happy  thing  for  the  Scpov-, 
that  rice  was  plenty,  as  the  supply  of"  that  commodity  which 
should  have  lasted  until  the  cxfxxlition  reached  Xvomano  was 
1'onnd  to  he  exhausted  on  the  l.'Jth. 

The  weariness  of  the  inarch  was  greater  than  it  should  have 
been  lxxruu.se  the  Sepoys  persisted  in  overburdenim;  the  camels, 

I       *          1 

which  they  could  easily  do  as  Dr.  Livingstone  was  wholly  un- 
accustomed to  the  animals.  The  sun  too  was  beating  on  them 
with  great  force,  and  the  men  taking  their  turns  with  fever. 

Arab  guides  are  not  better  than  other  guides.  It  is  generally 
the  ease  that  those  who  guide  us  for  our  convenience  and  their 
profit  seem  very  unconcerned  about  how  well  we  are  served  if 
our  ignorance  only  abets  their  impositions.  Guides  had  lied  to 
justify  their  misguidance  before  the  time  of  Ben  Ali,  and  if  they 
are  not  watched  they  will  do  it  when  the  wind  is  playing  with 
loaves  above  his  grave.  The  particular  guide  in  question  now, 
a  i  it  turned  out,  owed  a  duty  to  a  certain  comely  Makonde  wo- 
man, who  resided  some  distance  from  the  proper  path,  and  like 
a  dutiful  husband,  though  an  undutiful  iruicle,  vowed  that  the 

/  O  ~  / 

v  rontr  way  was  the   right  one  as  positively  as  ever  an  attorney 

O  •  O  »  »' 

asserted  the  worse  the  better  reason  until  his  point  was  carried. 
I;  seems  to  be  no  trouble  to  the  Arab  guide  any  more  than  to 
ai  attorney  when  the  point  is  carried  to  confess  the  "sharpness" 
of  the  transaction;  and  lien  Ali  guided  his  employer  hack  when 
li  f  had  comforted  his  spouse  and  reassured  her  of  his  atleetio.il 
as  pleasantly  as  he  had  led  him  aside.  The  policy  of  the  Arabs 
is  like  that  of  the  Portuguese — they  strengthen  their  influence 
with  the  natives  by  coming  down  to  them.  They  do  not  elevate 
the  African  by  it.  They  only  degrade1  themselves  and  increase 
the  diiliculties  to  be  met  by  those  who  aim  at  the  elevation  of 
the  people  in  the  scale  of'  manhood. 

The  people  among  whom  they  were  passing  were  very  rude. 
The  women  particularly  seemed  to  ignore  all  restraints,  and  >ur- 
passed  the  men  in  the  indecency  of  their  deportment.  The  men, 
like  true  lovers,  engaged  with  eagernes>  in  cutting  a  pndi.  and 
the  hope  of  having  a  yard  or  two  of  cloth  to  make  their  wives' 
dresses  imparted  marvellous  charms  to  the  hard  work-  ;  it  wa- de- 
lightful to  hear  their  merrv  shouts  and  witness  the  almost  childish 


AI.OM;  THK  KOVUMA. 


^lee.  with  which  they  marched  again-t  the  most  cruel  jungles  of 
thorns  ami  briers.  The  higher  up  the  river  they  went  the  more 
extravagantlv  barbarous  were  the  s|>eeiineiw  of  tattooing  and 
lip-rings  which  presented  them-elves.  There  were  very  few 
animals  -em.  hardlv  anv  indeed  ;  none  exist  scarcely  in  the 
•ountrv  through  which  they  passed  exivpt elephants,  hippopotami 
and  pig-. 

A-eendin.:  the  Kovuma,  thev  were  still  in  the  territory  of  the 
Makonde,  and  retracing  in  large  measure  the  former  route,  ex- 
cept that  in-tead  of  -ailing  along  the  river  thev  were  walking 
along  the  highland-  and  vallev-.  Now  and  then  a  familiar  face 
wa-  proentcd  to  the  doctor,  and  -onic  faces  associated  rather  un- 
plea-antlv  with  the  events  of  his  former  expedition.  The  camels 
:ind  buffaloes  were  fivipienllv  bitten  by  the  t.-et.-e  without  ex- 
hibiting sjxvial  inconvenience. 

At  the  N  an  trad  i  river,  a  broad  stream  which  rise-  in  a  lakelet 
•nine  eight  or  ten  mile-  from  the  Kovuma,  Ih-gins  the  territory 
i  f  the  Mabiha.  A  few  mile-  above  thi-  gap  the  -out hern  high- 
lands fall  awav,  and  there  arc  broad  mar-he-  known  a-  the  Ma- 
tembwe  flat.-  ;  numerou-  lakelets  arc  -ecu  gli-tening  in  the  sun- 
shine here  and  there  ;  and  awav  from  the.-e  flats  extend-  the 
M  at  em  b  we  cotmtrv,  tamoii-  for  it-  beautiful  women,  and  boasting 
an  astonishing  .-upjilv  of  elephants  and  gum-copal.  Such  a 
eoiintrv  ct.nld  hardlv  fiil  to  attract  the  Arab  trader.-. 

<  )n  the  '2~il\\  of  April  1  >r.  Living-tone  W;LS  at  a  village  called 
Nachiiehu,  enjovmg  the  dav  o!  re-t  .-o  welcome  to  the  man  who 
ha-  fulfilled  the  condition-  of  liti-  on  which  the  great  .Ind^c  pn- 
dieated  tip'  con-ecrat  ion  o!'  the  -eventh  dav.  Men  onlv  find 
to  complain  of  one  of  (  iod'-  requirements  \\hen  th'-v 
No  one  command  of  ( I  >d  i-  hard  \\hcn  the  other* 
N'obodv  will  think  the  Sabbath  dull  \\lio  approaches 
i'oi  it-  n  -t  to  body  and  -pirit  bv  a  faithful  einploy- 
-i\  dav-,  and  bv  a  proper  ap]ireeiat ion  of  the  ivla- 
i:!v  -•  t  forth  in  th<-  PiiUe.  Living-tone  \va-  <_rreat!v 
I  :  1 1  n  o  i  I  M  -i  1 1  L;  able  t  o  e<  1 1 1 1  n  1 1 1  n  i  <  a  t  e  with  the  n :  1 1 1  \ '  - . 
N  i-  •  •  1,  IM.V-.  on  \\  horn  lie  |,;,d  de|,«-nded  a-  iind<  r-  tan  ding 
th-  ir  lan_'iia_'ei  i  uJ,  him  un-  i  !v,  and  In-  i-oiild  onlv  take  -n<-li 
r>  ]n  >  -enr.i' ;,  ,ii-  ot  tin  m  a-  All  ^ave  ;  he  had  "i 
ut  hi-  cla--.  and  lie  n  are  i  a 


TIIOI'HLKS    WITH    FOLLOW  Kits.  \^)- 

of  (hat  which  they  are  unwilling  to  attempt.  It  is  ea.-ier  to 
suv  ilmt  such  heathen  as  these  along  the  Kovunia  cannot  !><; 
taught  any  thing  than  it  is  to  teach  them,  therefore  the  eoveton- 
representatives  of  the  Moslem  creeds  siiy  with  eagerness:  '' Thev 
cannot  lxi  instructed;  they  know  nothing  of  (iod;  have  no  idea 
of  (Jod  ;  it  is  impossible;"  that  is  the  way  lien  AH  talked  about 
the  Makonde  on  Sunday  at  Xaeliuchu. 

While  examining  a  specimen  of  the  gum-copal  tree  with  borne 
of  these  Makonde,  in  the  vicinity  of  Xachuehu,  there  was  at 
least  a  little  evidence  picked  up  which  contradicted  the  Arab-,' 
representations.  The  people  dig  in  the  vicinity  of  modern  trees 
in  the  belief  that  more  ancient  trees,  which  dropped  their  gum 
before  it  became  an  article  of  commerce,  must  have  stood  there. 
Speaking  of  this,  some  of  them  said:  u  In  digging  none  may  be 
found  on  one  day,  but  (iod  (Mungu)  may  give  it  to  us  on  tin- 
next."  This  simple  remark,  made  as  naturally  as  any  other, 
revealed  certainly  more  than  an  idle  dream  only  of  (iod.  It 
breathed  much  like  faith,  and  not  improbably  expressed  a  spirit 
of  submission  to  (iod  and  dependence  on  his  care  which  Ben 
AH  had  never  dreamed  of,  although  a  boasting  follower  of 

/  O  O 

Mohammed. 

As  may  be  seen  by  a  glance  at  the  map,  Livingstone  was  only 
about  one  hundred  miles  from  the  coast  at  Xachuehu.  The 
villanons  vagabonds  who  had  charge  of  his  camels  subjected 
him  to  the  inconvenience  of  distressingly  slow  travel.  The 
difficulties  had  been  great  enough  supposing  his  attendant-  the. 
best,  but  between  rascally  Sepoys  and  impenetrable  jungles  it 
had  been  impossible  to  make  more  than  four  miles  a  day.  After 
leaving  Xachuehu  the  country  was  more  open,  and  the  party  ad- 
vanced without  the  continual  cutting  that  hail  been  neec.-sary 
before.  Livingstone  described  the  .-cencry  as  beautiful.  The 
country  was  covered  with  great  masses  of  umbrageous  foliage, 
mostlv  of  a  dark  green  color;  the  leaves  of  nearly  all  the  trees 
have  the  glossiness  of  the  laurel.  The  kumhe  or  gnm-copal 
tree  is  conspicuous  among  the  tree-  of  these  tbre.-ts.  and  perhaps 
possesses  for  the  traveller  more  intere.-t  than  anv  oilier  on  ac- 
count of  the  important  contribution  it  makes  to  the  .•oinmeive 
of  the  countrv.  Burton  make-  more  particular  mention  of  tin- 
tree  than  Dr.  Livingstone  does:  he  savs,  "it  i-  bv  no  means  a 


3-VS  THE    GUM-COPAI,    THEE. 

*-rul>l>y  thorn,  :L-  sum.-  have  suppose*!  ;  its  towering  bole  hit-* 
formed  canoe-  -ixtv  feet  long,  ami  a  r-ingle  tree  hits  biiHieed  for 
the  ke!-on  of  a  l>ri_'.  The  average  -i/'-.  however,  is  ulxmt  half 
that  h'-i-Jit.  with  from  three  to  six  feet  girth  !U-.ir  the  ground  ; 
the  hark  i-  -ni""th  :  the  lower  branches  are  often  within  the 
reach  of  :i  man'-  ham!,  at)  I  the  tree  freipientlv  emerge-  from  a 
natural  ring-ieiiceof  d  n-e  vegetal  ion  ;  the  trunk  i.-  ot'  a  yellowish 
whiti-h  tin^e,  rendering  the  tret-  con-piciiou-  amid  the  dark 
African  jungle  •_••  ro  \\ :  h  -  ;  it  i-  dotted  with  exudation- of  raw  gum 
which  i-  found  -'-altered  in  !>]!-.  around  it-  lia-e,  and  is  infe.-ted 
l>v  ant-,  e-pei-ia!!v  li\  a  !'in_r  ^in-jer-eoloreil  and  semi-transparent 
varietv.  called  l>v  th--  pi-i-ple  maii-m'oto,  which  means  Iniiling 
water,  friim  it-  lierv  hire. 

The  -p'-cia!  intcp-t  atfa'-hing  '"  'he  tree  i~  on  account  of  it- 
gum,  wliieh  i-  prolialily  th--  oiilv  article  convert ilile  into  the 
finer  varni-h' •-  !i"\\  -.o  exten-ivelv  in  u-e  throughout  the  i-ivilix«-«l 
world.  It  i-  not  the  '_Mim  '\iiic!i  i-  collected  from  the  tree* 

which  [ i— i-    thi-    peculiar  e\eelh-n<*e.      Thi-  i-  di-t  iii'_rui-h"d 

a.'-  raw  eopal,  and  i- of  cojnparaiivelv  little  value.  The  true  nr 
r;jte  copal,  jii'op.-i-lv  ca!!«-d  -amlum-i,  i-  the  pro<liicc  of  va-t  <  \- 
tiii'-t  for--!-.  The  _'iiiii  I'liri-d  at  i!i-pth-  IM-VOIM!  atlil(»>plicric 
ii.flii'-ii'-e  lt:i-.  like  ainli-  r  and  -iniilar  'jum-re^in-,  heeii  Lit  j- 
njeni/ed  in  al  I  it-  punt  v,  t  he  volatile  principle-  1  n-in^  fi  \<  <1  1  v 
li'o<-tii:''  and  l>v  tip-  e\|iiil-ion  o|  external  air.  'I  here  are  mai  v 
fiit-  and  [H-ciiHant ie-  !\ii"\\n  onlv  t"  tho-f  who.-e  inten--t.-  coiti- 
]  -1  them  to  -i  a:-eh  tip  in  out.  A-  a  rule,  the  elear  and  -eii.i- 
t  -an-p'tri -nt  an-  the  !>>•-!.  Acr-ordiug  to  -ome  authoritio,  the 

•JM!1I    '.'.  ll'  II      !OMJ-      l.'pt       111-      Itei-n      o!)-el'Ved      to     chailL'c     it-    tillje. 


export'd  'Viv  vear  Ironi    Xan/il»ar. 

Ano'h-  r  tree  d-  -•!•<-  iiej-  -peeial  mention  wa-  the  mal,,le.  The 
•JIM in  ot  tli>'  \\ood  oi'  '!ii-  tree  i-  parlicularlv  line,  and  it  i- 

-o!  |_d.f    ani"M_'    all    '  ll-'    free.    Iweatl-e   r,f  if .   e\ce]le|iei'   III   t  he   iplali- 

t; f  -!!•!) _•  I  h  and  ela-t  ieitv  ;  m  ai  !\  all   t  he  1 ..  ,\\  -  of  t  he  count  rv 

ar--  ma-!'     ot'   it.       Tie-    fruit,  ho\\e\e|-.  tlioii-h    -o  verv  t«niptin^ 
to  ?1|.    •  • .  ••.   !..nn-   o;i!\    a   t'-a-I    (or  ina-j-jof-. 

I  ,;\  in.  '-'"!!•  appi'-'iat'd  ver\-  hi_-!il\  the  natural  l>e.aii!  i-  -  "l" 
the  region,  Hut  a-  h'  advanced,  the  itnwnrth\  Indian  attend- 
ant- l.e.  aim  in- i  -  a-;n/' \'  \\nrtlde--.  'I  h- \'  ti"--<--ed  marv«  I !"ii- 

•        I 


KXTUAVAGAXT  TATT<X)IX(J.  •':">:> 

voracity,  and,  besides,  a  most  unnatural  i-apucity,  which  without 
any  peculiar  attainment  would  have  told  dreadfully  on  i\u: 
stock  in  store  of  precious  food.  I>e-idc-  their  wonderful  capacity 
they  wen?  most  remarkable  dyspeptic- ;  accomplished  l«-yond 
all  conception  in  the  unpardonably  wasteful  art  of  ejecting  in- 
stantaneously what  they  had  eaten,  their  voracioii-  j,u\\crs 
were  only  equalled  l>v  their  ama/ing  vomition. 

If  those  Sepovs  were  specimens  of  their  cla-s  ihen  would  wo 
advise  all  travellers  to  beware  of  Sepoys.  I'Yoin  the  frecpicncy 
with  which  Livingstone  eotnplainetl  of  this  hatch  we  are  im- 
j>ressed  that  they  should  have  gone  with  him  for  nothing  and 
paid  extra  board  besides.  Hither  the  cruelties  of  the-e  men  or 
the  tsetse,  or  both,  were  beginning  to  tell  on  the  camels  and  tl'C 
buffaloes.  They  were  rapidly  becoming  a  burden  rather  than  a 
help.  The  people,  however,  when  thev  had  Ibod  were  <jnite 
generous.  The  villages  of  the  Mukonde  were  generally  (puto 
cleanly  and  pleasant  looking.  These  were  sometimes  found  in 
a  state  of  anxiety  on  account  of  the  kidnapping  proclivities  of 
their  neighbors  on  the  south  side  of  the  Ilovuma,  who  bear  tl  e 

O 

general  name  of  Mahiha.  These  people  are  considerably  inter- 
ested in  furnishing  slaves  for  the  I  bo  market,  and  not  unfr>- 
quently,  if  occasion  oilers,  the  women  of  the  Makonde  beennie 
victims.  There  is  hardlv  a  .-adder  picture  of  home  lite  than  is 
presented  bv  a  little  A  frican  village  about  which  a  hast\"  stock;  dc 
has  been  thrown,  behind  which  the  people  LLO  timidly  about  their 
duties,  in  hourly  expectation  ofthe  enemy  who  has  fixed  avaricious 
eyes  on  the  choicest  of  their  number. 

After  crossing  the  X'Konva,a  bountiful  stream  flowing  out  of 
the  highlands  from  the  north  into  the  IJovurna.  the  !a-t  ot'tho 
range  which  flanks  the  river  on  that  side  was  -ecu.  and  the 
country  which  lay  before  them  was  a  plain,  with  a  few  detached 
granitic  peaks  shooting  up.  In  this  neighborhood  there  were 
some  very  remarkable  specimens  of'  personal  ornamentation  di— 
played  with  unconcealed  pride.  The  fa-hiou  of  the  re^!  >n 
called  for  an  extravagance  of'  tattooing.  The  loyely  belle-  \\h<- 
displayed  their  proportion-  with  shameless  freedom  \\vre  not 
onlv  adorned,  as  are  other  maidens  of  the  land,  about  their  faces 
and  breasts,  but  their  entire  persons  seem  t"  have  been  at  the 
command  of  the  artist,  and  especially  elaborate  were  the  designs 


'.}(', 'I  TOP   OF   THE    FASHION. 

that  graced  the  humbler  parts.  The  hijw  displayed  uncommon 
skill,  and  were  surpassed  only  by  the  eccentricities  which  were1 
traced  along  thox-  jxwterior  convexities  which  our  refined  con- 
ventionality blushes  to  denominate — but  African  bell<s  arc  not 
a-hamed  of  their  buttocks.  One  of  these  l>eauties  called  at  the 
do. 'tor's  camp  at  the  village  of  Nyamba,  and  presented  a  verv 
acceptable  basket  of  soroko  and  a  fowl,  and  a>  a  specimen  of  the 
native  women  of  the  section  it  mav  lx-  mentione<l  that  this  ladv 
i-  doseriU'd  as  "  tall  and  well  made,  with  line  limbs  and  feet.'' 
Such  language,  too,  from  so  SO!HT  an  observer  a.-  \>r.  Living- 
.-tone,  viewing  j>eo|)le  as  he  (lid  with  the  eye  of  a  scientist,  means 
more  in  Africa  than  it  could  mean  in  those  nearer  climes  where 
{!)<•  art-  of  cirili/ation  have  so  (jivatlv  facilitated  the  dis-_rui>e  of 
all  deformities  and  irujx-rft-ctions  ;  there  is  no  place  for  shams, 
no  possibility  of  padding  in  a  land  where  a  lady's  attire  consists 
of  a  few  Mrand-  of  beads,  and  po^sihlv  a  few  inelus  of  cloth. 

After  leaving  the  end  of  the  rani^e,  pa.-?  in  if  westward,  the 
"  journal  "  mentions,  among  the  noticeable  natural  changes, 
"first  of  all,  sandstone  hardened  bv  lire;  th«-n  ma— -co  of  granite, 
a-  if  in  that  had  been  contained  the  i^uemi-  a^eiicv  of  partial 
metamorplnKis  ;  it  had  al-o  lifted  up  the  .-ami-tone,  so  as  to 
can-e  a  dip  to  the  ea.-t.  Then  the  .-venite  or  <_rranite  >eemi-d  as 
if  it  had  Iw-en  melted,  ibr  it  wa-all  in  stria',  which  >tri:e,  as 
th» -v  do  elsewhere,  run  ea-t  and  we<t.  With  the  change  in  }^eo- 
lo^ic  structure  there  was  a  diH'ereiit  vegetation.  Instead  of  the 
laurel-leaved  tre«-~  of  various  kind-,  African  cbonie-,  a<"ieia.s, 
and  mimo-a-  appeared,  the  ^rass  i<  shorter  and  more  sparse,  and 
\TC  <-in  move  along  without  w/>od-ciittii);_r." 

I><r\v<rii  the  Sepov-  and  the  t.-ct-e  the  ;iiiimal-  were  now 
pivttv  well  M-'-d  up,  and  thev  were  alxnit  entering  a  seefion 
\\hi-r--  a  iloiiblr-  ini-fbrtiiii''  had  -prt:»d  distressing  desolation 
aiiionj  tlii-  p<-o|il<'.  Livitigstonc  <l«'fcrniincd  to  1- ave  the  S-povs 
and  tic  Na~i<-K  bov>  \siili  t he  animal-  at  .Ipondc,  \\hich  >t<MMl 
opjM.-it.  a  'jijantic  bill  mi  the  -onth  «-ide  of  the  river  called 
Nal.aptiri.  !!••  rhoiij-ht  it  wa-  v.i-er  to  depend  on  tho«e  U'liind 
no  fnrth-  r  than  \\a-  IP ••••--arv,  -o  h«-  Jnill"ferre<l  all  hi-  'j"'*-!-  to 
•  -irrn  r-  and  -«•!  out,  Ifartilv  'jlad  to  be  r.  li«  \-.-. ]  for  a  time  at 
]•  :i-t  of  th>-  provoking  iii'-iibn-  of  eighteen  or  twi-ntv  la/v  li-1- 
low-«  who  \\'i-'-  r- -tardin^  hi-  work  almo-t  insufTerably. 


A  Kill  V  A  I.    AT    NYOMANO. 

One  of  the  plagues  to  which  (lie  country  IKK!  IMHTI  subject  w 
rt'i  invasion  of  the  Ma/itu,  whose  plundering  pro|n»tiHitiefi  con- 
Ktitutc  one  of  the  most  serious  evils  in  nil  the  lake  region  ; 
another  was  a  verv  distressing  drought.  As  lie  advanced  the 
embarrassment  became  greater.  The  Ma/itu  had  -wept  the 
land  liUe  a  cloud  of  locusts.  They  had  inspired  the  whole  popu- 
lation with  terror.  It  was  almost  impossible  to  get  his  carrier* 
along,  and  as  the  south  side  of  the  river  promised  Iwtter  1'are  ho 
at  length  consented  to  their  entreaties,  and  they  passed  over  and 
journeyed  on  to  the  Loendi  just  alx>ve  its  continence  with  the 
Rovuina,  and  though  it  retaine<l  the  name  Ivoendi,  it  was  mani- 
festly the  parent  stream.  Both  rivers  were  rapid,  shoal  and 
sandy,  with  light  canoes  gliding  alnwt  on  them,  in  whoso  dex- 
terous management  the  natives  take  great  pride. 

Xyomano  was  at  last  reached.  It  occupied  the  very  impor- 
tant situation  just  at  the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers.  Matu- 
mova,  the  head  man,  received  Livingstone  with  great  cordiality 
and  respect;  he  had  himself  crossed  the  Loendi  and  superin- 
tended the  transportation  of  the  partv,  and  though  he  had  heen 
sadly  impoverished,  and  his  people  reduced  to  absolute  want, 
he  generously  divided  his  small  store  with  Dr.  Livingstone  as 
long  as  he  remained  at  his  village.  The  <.rnide,  I  Jen  AM,  was  dis- 
charged, and  the  countrv  around  scoured  l>v  the  men  in  search 
of  food.  Meantime,  also,  word  was  sent  hack  to  the  Scpovs, 
Imt  his  efforts  to  make  something  of  them  were  more  honorable 
to  himself  than  effectual.  The  time  passed  heavilv  ;  verv  short 
marches.  The  journal  of  his  travels  for  days  contains  verv 
little  besides  the  annoyances  experienced  with  hi-  trifling  escort : 
thev  had  so  abused  the  camels  that  thev  were  most  of  them 
dead,  and  none  of  them  any  longer  lit  for  service,  while  thev 
themselves  could  scarcely  be  trusted  to  carry  anything  of  value. 

In  the  Matembwe  country  he  was  in  the  favorite  field-  <>f  tli^ 
Arab  slave-traders.  K  very  where  the  hut-  were  seen  which 
these  traders  had  built  to  screen  themselves  from  the  sun.  Manv 
of  the  people  were  found  supplied  with  guns,  and  the  Around 
was  strewn  with  slave-taming  sticks,  which  s^ave  sorrowful  evi- 
dence of  the  multitudes  of  poor  creatures  who  had  fallen  down 
under  the  cruelties  of  their  master-  while  on  the  march  to  the 
market  at  the  coast.  Livingstone  was  now  indeed  penetrating 


SC'J  THK   SLAVK-TRADK. 

the  continent  for  the  sjnviul  pur|x>se  of  deciding  some  groat 
geographical  <piestions  as  fullv  as  it  might  IK-  in  his  power,  hut 
his  great  In-art  \v:is  full  of  anguish  as  he  contemplated  daily  the 
misery  which  this  accursed  traftie  had  brought  to  the  ]>oor  un- 
taught In-ings  who  had  been  made  its  victims. 

The  temptation  which  these  traders  have  to  ofler  readily 
atl'eets  the  minds  of  many  of  the  natives  who  exercise  a  petty 
authority  «»v.  r  their  fellows.  Sometimes  those  who  are  sold  are 
<-ipt!ves  in  some  village  war;  sometimes  they  are  accused  of 
a  tritlitiLT  crime  as  a  justification,  and  they  are  soinetiims  simply 
taken  bv  violence  and  sold.  There  is  verv  little  difficulty  alxxit 
an  Arab  with  beads  or  cloth  obtaining  all  the  claim  he  desires  t" 
anv  particular  man  or  woman  on  whom  he  mav  fix  hi-'  ehoiiit, 
and  when  once  the  slave  yoke  is  on  the.  unfortunate  creature,  1  <• 
mav  hardly  hojx?  to  escape.  ( )n  the  ll'th  of  .June,  Livingstone 
mentions  p:is.-ing  a  woman  tied  by  the  neck  to  a  tree  dead  ;  at 
other  times  men  were  found  stabbed,  some  who  had  been  shot  or 
struek  with  tin.-  axe.  These  the  natives  said  were  tho-e  who  ha  1 
IMI-II  -o  unfortunate  as  to  fall  down  of  fatigue  ;  thev  were  n  i 
longer  able  to  walk,  and  must  btvome  the  victim-  ol'  the  a  111:1  f 
of  their  m:i-ters,  when  it  was  clear  tliat  thev  could  not  eoi.- 
tribute  to  their  wealth.  Livingstone  lo-t  no  opjM»rtunity  to 
urge  on  the  minds  of  the  head  men  of  the  villages  with  whom  he 
came  in  contact  the  great  and  irreparable  mi-chief  they  were 
doing  themselves  by  hearkening  to  the  voice  of  their  tempters  ; 
warning  then,  that  the  trade  which  seemed  to  enrich  them  for 
the  timewa-  rapidly  depopulating  their  village*,  leaving  their 
i_rardeu-  de-olate  and  diminishing  their  strength.  These  head 
men  -eftned  to  be  a  little  uneasy  about  il.  Tli«-v  n^igni/ed  the 
unri^lit>-oii-tie-- of  -i-Hing  their  people  even  according  to  their 
1-  of  ju-t  ii-e  and  wi-doin,  but  thev  \\.-re  up  to  the  old 
il.Hiiui'j  -oine  one  d-e  |i>r  their  liuili-.  N'illage  aft-  r 
.'.  Inch  \\a-  pa->~<-<l  a-  the  j»arlv  journeyed  alon'j  the 
v\  i-  found  di--erled.  <  >nc  of  the-e  village-  had  on!v 
i •;.  .1  a  t'-'-.v  hour-  before  Living-ton.-  .  n:.  ;.•<]  it  ;  it-  in- 
habitant- lri'1  i!i"\ . .  1  ot]' in  a  l>o.|v  Inward-*  the  \oti  mbtii-  coiiti- 
trv,  \\h--r--  l"o.)  '.'.a-  more  abundant,  and  a  |>o..r  little  ;_'iil  was 
loini'l  in  oii«-  "1  tip'  Imt.-.  Slie  \\a-  too  weak  to  fravel,  and  had 
U-.-n  left  l.-'hind.  and  tip-re  i-  a  \\ealth  <it'  tendenie^  in  thw 


•  .   • 

•  •:-..  . 


THK    MAKOA.  .X* 

simple  entry  which  Is  found  in  the  groat  traveller' M  journal — 
"  probably  she  w;ts  an  orphan."  His  own  children  were  far 
away  ;  their  mother  hud  gone  on  to  her  rest;  he  was  toiling  ii»r 
the  redemption  of  Africa.  Who  knows'' with  what  depth  of 
feeling  the  great  man,  sitting  in  his  lonelv  hut  that  night,  wrote 
the  .sul  sounding  sentence  about  a  poor  little  abandoned  African 
child? — ''probably  she  was  an  orphan."  Surely  our  hearts 
on«;ht.  not  to  be  hard  toward  those  unfortunate  people.  The 
children  of  Africa  may  not  have  evinced  the  same  talent-,  may 
not  indeed  possess  the  same  capacities  as  those  about  our  fire- 
sides, but  they  are  children,  needing  tenderness  and  love. 

The  Makoa,  who  occupy  the  section  along  the  Rovuma,  live  1 
in  the  southeast  in  former  times,  and  were  distinguished  by  tl :  <„• 
tattoo  mark,  which  was  in  the  shape  of  a  half-moon.  J5ut  siii'o 
they  have  lived  in  the  Waiyau  country,  they  have  adopted  marl  » 
more  like  theirs.  They  are  less  scrupulous  about  their  di  -t 
than  the  Makonde.  They  eat  the  flesh  of  all  such  animal'*  i^ 
they  esteem  clean.  Thev  condemn  that  of  the  hyena  and  leop- 
ard, or  any  beast  which  devours  dead  men.  One  of  the  moil 
prominent  of  the  head  men  of  this  tribe,  whose  name  was  Clm'- 
kaloma,  informed  Dr.  Livingstone  that  thev  were  the  descend- 
ants of  an  ancestor  whose  name  was  Mira/i,  and  that  this  w  r 
properly  the  surname  of  the  tribe.  Near  one  of  these  villag.-s 
Livingstone  observed  a  wand  bent  down  and  both  ends  in.-erted 
into  the  ground:  a  lot  of  medicine,  usuallv  the  bark  of'  tree-,  is. 
buried  beneath  it.  When  sickness  is  in  a  village,  the  men  pro- 
ceed to  the  spot,  wash  themselves  with  the  medicine  and  water, 
creep  through  beneath  the  bough,  then  burv  the  medicine  and 
the  evil  influence  together.  This  is  also  used  to  keep  oil'  evil 
ppirits,  wild  beasts,  and  enemies.  The  people  do  not  seem  as 
superstitious  cither  as  some  of  the  tribes  that  have  come  to  our 
notice.  In  the  matter  of  deformities,  for  in-tanee.  Dr.  Living- 
stone was  asking  Chirikaloma  about  their  treatment  of  albinos; 
he  assured  the  doctor  that  the  Makoa  never  killed  them.  The 
parental  tenderness  does  not  relinquish  the  child  because  of  anv 
blemish,  as  in  some  other  communities  Livingstone  wa>  told 
ofa  child  in  this  tribe  which  was  deformed  from  his  birth.  He 
hail  an  abortive  toe  where  his  knee  should  have  been  ;  some  satd 
to  his  mother,  "  Kill  him  ;  ''  but  she  replied,  "  How  can  I  kill 


>  A  WOMAN 

ray  son?"  lie  grew  uj>  arid  had  many  fine  sons  and  daughters, 
hut  none  deformed  like  himself. 

Af(«-r  leaving  the  village  of  ( 'hirikaloma.  while  paii-inir  rdon<r 

i  r?» 

in  tin-  bright  niorn*iL,r,  they  were  luiidlv  a«vosted  hr  a  well- 
dre--ed  woman  who  had  ju-t  had  a  very  heavy  slave-taming 
sti'-k  put  :>u  h'-r  neck;  .-he  called  in  such  an  authoritative  tone 
to  them  to  witness  tin-  flagrant  injustice  of  which  she  was  the 
vi'-tim  that  all  the  nien  -tool  still  ami  went  to  hear  the  case. 
She  wa-  a  near  relative  i>f  ('hirikaloma,  and  was  goini;  tip  the 
river  to  IK  r  hu-l»and,  \vhcn  the  old  man  I  at  whose  house  she  was 
n«\v  a  pri-oner)  caught  her,  took  her  -crvant  awav  from  her,  and 
kept  h'-r  in  the  degraded  .-tate  they  saw.  The  \vitlus  with 
whi'-h  she  was  Ixmnd  were  trnt-n  aii<l  >appv.  The  old  man  said, 
in  jii-;iti<-atioii,  that  .-he  was  running  auav  from  Chirikaloma, 
and  h-'  would  lx?  oflendi-d  \\ith  him  it' he  did  nut  xvure  her. 

Liviii'j-tone  a-ke<l  the  oilieious  old  gentleman  in  a  friemllv 
tone  what  In-  e\j»i-«'tfd  to  n-ei-ive  I'rom  ( 'hirikaloma,  and  he  said, 
"  N"tiiiii_r."  S«'V'T:d  slaver-lcwiking  fellows  e;une  ahotit,  and  he 
I'-lt  -iii-i-  that  tip-  woman  had  IM-.-D  -ei/i-d  in  ordi-r  t"  -ell  In  r  IM 
th'-m.  -o  In-  'jave  the  raptor  a  rli-th  to  pav  to  (  'hirikaloma  if  In- 
\V«T.-  oll'cnded,  and  told  him  to  -ay  that  he,  feeling  a-hamed  to 
"•<•  0:11-  of  his  relatives  in  a  slave-stick,  had  released  her,  aii'i 
wo-,i!d  takf  h>  r  on  to  her  hu-hand. 

'Ihi"  woman  was  evidently  a  lady  amon^  them  ;  her  -ii|x:- 
r:onty  not  only  con-i.-tni  in  the  rank  which  a  wealth  of  line 
ln-ad-  indiettteil,  hut  -he  \\  a.-  manifotlv  a  woman  of  uneoinmon 
-pint-.  Sh.-  provrd  her-rlf  w.-ll  worthy  of  the  kindness  -he  Irid 
I'-'-'iyi  il.  l)uriii'_'  the  fe\y  day-  in  whirh  -he  \\a-  \\ith  LivinLT- 
-!o:i«-'-  parly,  her  di-portinent  wa-  that  of  a  lady,  kind  and  help- 
j'll.lm'  m««l'-t  and  r-t irin-j  enoti^h  to  -ati-lV  rvi  n  the  ta-tidimi- 
p;-;i  li-ii'-i- of  the  nio-t  i-i -iiiicd.  And  -h--  wa-  not  ungrateful.  >he 
h  i  1  !M.;I  ri  -rncd  from  a  dri-adf'ul  fin-  indeed;  a  few  niom.-ni- 
••t:!i ••!'  or  laf'T  -!(••  mi'_'ht  havr  retirhiil  no  triendlv,  pit\in_r 
•  •  i--  •  ii  !P  r  rri-  -.  ^  i-,  t hen-  ar*1  ear-  al way-  open  to  the  n  v 
•  I'tii-  oppri--iil  ;  thi-re  a'e  i  ve-  th.it  a!\va\-  l>.-nd  pityingly  on 
-'lil'-rin _'.  S  ,Mi.'tim«-,  ih.-  J.opl  allow-  tin-  yoke  to  en: 
d'-i-p!  v  into  I  In-  n- •«  k  th.it  !n-ar-  it ,  lint  do.  -  In  i-vi-r  tor_''-f  to  !».• 
h'r.i'-io!i- '.'  \\"i!l  IP-  di-rr./:ird  th«-  rr\-  "t"  l-'.:hiopia  \\hrn  -h«- 
*l  r  >•'••}  r  -  out  h'-r  h.nd-  unto  him?  and  when  the  1 1  me  of  hi-  do- 


IlOItltOIlS    OF   THK    TUADK    J  N    KLAVKS.  .°>G7 

livcranrc  eome-,  will  ho  not  avenge  the  wrongs  which  In-  ha« 
witnessed  '.' 

The  marks  of  the  dreadful  trade  became  more  and  more  frc- 
<plent  as  lie  penetrated  the  Waivail  coiintrv.  They  had  hardly 
released  Akosakone,  when  they  passed  a  slave  woman  -hot  or 
stahln-d  through  the  body,  and  lying  in  the  path.  A  gr  nij»  of 
men  stood  ahont  a  hundred  yards  oil'  on  one  side,  and  another 
group  of  women  on  the  other;  they  said  thi-  cruel  murder  had 
ju>t  heen  committed  l»y  an  Aral)  who  pa— ed  by,  in  his  anger  at 
losing  the  price  he  had  paid  lor  her,  when  he  saw  that  .-he  could 
walk  no  farther.  The  head  men  of  the  villages  seemed  greatly 
troubled  and  alarmed  when  they  were  told  of  so  many  dead 
bodies  of  their  people,  who  had  been  killed  by  the  slaver-,  and 
were  not  blind  to  the  reasoning  of  Livingstone  when  he  .-it- 
tempted  to  show  them  that  those  who  sold  these  poor  creature.- 
to  the  Arabs  were  sharers  with  them  in  the  guilt  of  the.-e  mur- 
ders. As  the  party  came  nearer  Mtarika's  place,  the  country 
became  more  mountainous,  and  the  land,  sloping  for  a  mile  down 
to  the  south  bank  of  the  Kovuma,  supports  a  large  population. 
Some  were  making  new  gardens  bv  cutting  down  trees  and 
piling  the  branches  fur  burning  ;  others  had  stored  up  lar^e 
(juantities  of  grain  and  were  moving  it  to  a  new  localitv,  but 
they  were  all  so  well  -upplied  with  calico  (Merikano)  that  thev 
would  not  look  at  IV.  Livingstone's;  the  market  was,  in  lift, 
glutted  by  slavers  from  Quiloa  (Kilwai.  On  a.-king  why  peo- 
ple were  seen  tied  to  trees  to  die  as  we  had  seen  them,  thev  gave 
the  usual  answer' that  the  Arabs  tie  them  thus  and  leave  them 
tn  perish,  because  they  are  vexed,  when  the  slaves  can  walk  no 
farther,  that  thev  have  lo-t  their  nionev  bv  them.  The  path  was 
almost  strewed  with  slave-sticks,  and  though  the  people  denied 
it,  Living-tone  suspected  that  they  made  a  practice  of  following 
-lave  caravans  and  cutting  oll'the  sticks  from  th"-e  who  tall  out 
in  the  march,  and  thus  stealing  them.  I'v  -.-llin^  them  a^aiti 
they  might  get  additional  «juantities  of  cloth.  Some  a-ked  for 
gaudy  prints,  of  which  he  had  none,  becau.-c  he  knew  that  the 
general  taste  of  the  Africans  of  the  interior  is  for  .-tivn^th 
rather  than  .-how  in  what  thev  buv. 

These  people  were,  however,  M>  well  supplied  with  white 
calico  bv  the  slave-traders  that  it  was  found  to  be  a  dru_:  in  the 


36S  (TKKKN*  Y    FOR    AKRK'A. 

market  ;  it  was  imp«»-^il>lc  i<>  p-t  i\»><\  i'^r  it.  Mtarika's  oM 
placv  wa-  rcaeh.il  tir-t.  Th--  Unviinia  u  a<  there  alx>ut  one 
lniii'lnil  vard-  wide.  I  he  n-t  \\iiieh  wa-  indulged  in  at  this 
|>oint  wa-  refre-hin_r.  a-  iv-t  imi>:  eve T  l>e  to  lidiit-i  worker-  \\  ho 
take  it  with  clear  con-eicnee-  ;  hut  it  wa-  obtained  at  a  eo-i 
which  a!ni'>-t  turned  the  rd^c  of  it.  The  a<it>niiu<*latioM<*  wciv 
paid  l'>r  d'-arlv  with  the  Ke-t  (n^f--  cA,'/,,x.  Tin1  ivailcr  has 
sun-lv  cnjiir  t<»  iinil«'r~taii'l  \<>\\'^  a^«»  that,  in  Afriixi,  tin'  <>n!y 
l>ank  n«>t<-.  arc  pic<-is  of  rliith,  an  1  tho  cmlv  hanl  IIXHK  v,  licails 
aii'l  the  like.  When  Mr.  Stanlcv  rntefe.l  AiVica  in  -carcli  -»t 
I  >r.  Living-tone,  he  carried  ->rvrral  tnm  <<]  rnrr<  /!<•'/,  and  then 
wa>  -••rnctinies  in  danger  of  riinnniLT  .-li'-rt.  ^\  ith  the  nnconi  • 
f!iou  oiitlav  :it  the  re-tiii'_f-j'lace  lie  obtained  r»nlv  one  meal  a  d.n  , 
The  p.  ..|i!e  were  \\'ai\'an,  a-  wen-  all  the  pc.ijilc  from  then-  mi 
t.>  the  lake.  Thev  a  re  a-  deeply  intiTotnl  in  tin-  flavr-tradf  ;is 
anv  pe  iple  in  l-'a-t  Africa,  and  copv  the  Ai'ali-  in  vari'"is 
liiatt-T-  -dl'i'-s,  ehe\vin._r  fliaceo,  etc.  The  I;-'  • -f  animal-,  h:  1 
now  dwindlet]  down  l«  a  poodlr-doj-,  kn-iun  in  the  <amp  -^ 
(  'lii tail'  .  a  liiiH'iln  «-i!t'.  a i icl  a  -in_'l'  d":i!v-  v.  Th'--e  \vej-e  near  ,- 
a-  Lrre  it  cnno-itie^  in  the  land  a-  the  wlii?«'  man  linn-el1' 
Nothing  which  Living-tone  <••  >u!d  lind  i-n!  r.id;<'at'd  that  tlic 

people    ||-ld    c\'er    -'-ell    a    \\lllte    !li:l!l    lietn!',-. 

Af  th--  !i--'.v  town  of  Mtarika,  \\hi-h  wa-  entered,  a  INT  a  -h'»-t 
inareh.  "M  t!i«-  !',d  of  .Iul\-,  thev  eame  nit  an  intei'<-:  inj;  -c.  5  •. 
'1  hi-  el.;.-?  I. ad  '_''i'he!vd  alciiit  him  an  nniii'-ii-e  population,  and 
the  II--'.-,  '..\\M  had  Keen  laid  out  <|ii:!e  rc'jnlarlv  ovr  an  ana 
mile-  in  e\f.-ut.  Mtarika  \va-  a  "  l>i_r  n_'!v  man,"  full  (if  i-Jiutioii 
and  eiir"  .-i!  v. 

I'  -eeii|.-(|  unailvi-altlc  to  att'-mpt  to  f.llow  the  K"Viimi 
fnrth'-r.  I /.  .  i  n_f-'' Hi'-  had  now  ii"  doiiht  alfiiil  it-  llowiirj  frotn 
I.ak'-  N'.'i--a.  which  wa-oulv  aluitit  -:\"-'  mile-  a\\a\';  and  to 
i-tiittinU'  "•)  that  roii'.-  he  would  !»•  -ulijo-t>i|  (<••_'!••  at  in-'o'i 

V'-lli'  II""      '.-••a'l-e      of'     the      Ull-alallll'lie--      i.f     hi-       _' 1-,      a-      tl.e 

mark'*-  in  that  ilirti-timi  \'.<r<'  >-\<  -arl\'  "",  •  :'-'o>  k>  d  alrcadv  hv 
vii-  \-  !'•-  ;  !..-.;,!.  -  t|,,.v  v.  .,u!d  IM- .-omp- lied,  a>  he  a-vrtain.  d. 
;,,![-"--  -'  \ ••  ;•  t!  rivi-r-  fl>  >•.•,  in_r  ini«>  t ii-  K'  '\'um  i  ;'.-. .-n  t  lie  -. nit  h. 
and  th-  M  ii  pa--in_'  ai-"iii'«l  t!i'  i;t«rth«  rn  -  rd  "!  th'  lak-  \M''ild 
*••  ainoii  _'  1 1,.  \  :';di,  '\  h-  •  are  on!\  -nrp::  -•  •!  i  n  I  h-  :r  t  Ii  i-  \  i  it  ' 
fu-i  •]  .>•!!-:!  ;•-  !•  v  :  h,  \[, ,.  i'  i|_  \\  h-  im  tin',  ha1,  e  i.  ...'!•  1  a-  «•  •  n- 


EXTRACT    FROM    LAKT   JOFRNAL.  ;{(jy 

pants  of  (lie  hind.  It  was  therefore  determined  t«>  turn  south- 
ward and  push  on  a  good  eight  davs  march  arrows  a  desolate 
region  t«»  tin-  town  of  Mtittiku.  Accordingly  on  the  morning 
of  the  ">th  the  party  passed  on  to  Mtendi,  the  last  chief,  until 
thev  .should  reach  Mataka.  It  was  a  serious  undertaking — eight 
davs  jotirnev  through  a  wilderness  desolated  bv  famine,  where 
no  human  habitation  could  be  expected  to  appear,  but  Living- 
stone was  accustomed  to  serious  undertakings.  A  page  or  two 
from  Livingstone's  journal,  just  as  the  experiences  were  put  down 
on  the  evening  of  each  dav,  cannot  fail  to  interest  the  reader, 
and  we  are  glad  to  have  it  at  hand. 

"./*////  7. — We  got  men  from  Mtendi  to  carry  loads  and  show 
the  wav.  lie  asked  a  cloth  to  ensure  his  people  going  to  the 
journey's  end  and  behaving  properly  ;  this  is  the  only  case  of 
anything  like  tribute  being  demanded  in  this  journey.  I  gave 
him  a  cloth  worth  o.s.  Cxi.  Upland  vegetation  prevails;  trees 
are  dotted  here  and  there  among  bushes  five  feet  high,  and  fine 
blue  and  yellow  flowers  are  common.  AVe  pass  over  a  succession 
of  ridges  and  valleys  as  in  Londa  ;  each  valley  has  a  running 
stream  or  trickling  rill;  garden  willows  arc  in  full  bloom,  and 
also  a  species  of  sage  with  variegated  leaves  beneath  the  flowers. 

"Jn/if  8. — Hard  travelling  through  a  depopulated  country. 
The  trees  are  about  the  size  of  hop-poles,  with  abundance  of' tall 
grass;  the  soil  is  sometimes  a  little  sandy,  at  other  times  that 
reddish,  clavev  sort  which  vields  native  grain  so  well.  The 
rock  seen  uppermost  is  often  a  ferruginous  conglomerate,  lying 
on  granite  rocks.  The  gum-copal  tree  is  here  a  mere  bush,  and 
no  digging  takes  place  for  the  gum  :  it  is  called  mchenga,  and 
yields  gum  when  wounded,  as  also  bark,  cloth,  and  cordage 
when  stripped.  Mountain  masses  are  all  around  us ;  we  sleep 
at  Linata  mountain. 

''./"/•/  D. — The  Masuko  fruit  abounds:  the  name  is  the  same 
here  as  in  the  Batoka  countrv  ;  there  are  also  rhododendrons  of 
two  species,  but  the  flowers  white.  We  slept  in  a  wild  spot, 
near  Mount  Le/iro,  with  manv  lions  roaring  about  u- ;  one 
hoarse  fellow  serenaded  us  a  lotpj;  time,  but  did  nothing  more, 
(lame  is  said  to  be  abundant,  but  we  saw  none,  save  an  <r-<-a- 
;  ional  diver  springing  awav  from  the  path.  Some  streams  ran 
to  the  northwest  to  the  Lismvaudo,  which  flows  north  lor  the 
itovuina  ;  uthers  to  the  southeast  for  the  Loendi. 


37*>  A   I>KSKI:TKP  VILLAGE. 

''July  10  timf  11. — -Nothing  to  interest  but  the  same  wear* 
trudge  :  (»ur  food  -o  M-arce  that  we  can  only  give  a  handful  oi 
half  a  i*>mid  of  grain  to  i-ach  jx-rson  JHT  day.  The  Ma-uko 
fruit  is  tonii< •<!,  hut  not  rijH-  till  rains  begin  ;  verv  few  birds  an* 
s*vn  .>r  heard,  though  there  is  both  !<>od  and  water  in  the  inanv 
£  rain-bear  ing  :;ra-MS  ami  running  -tivam-,  which  we  en>->  at 
thr  junction  of everv  two  ridge*.  A  dc.id  Ixnlv  lav  in  a  hut  bv 
the  wav-ide;  tli--  |nn»r  tiling  had  l>egun  to  make  a  garden  bv  the 
treain,  probably  in  hop*--  of  living  long  enough  (two  months 
or  s«»i  on  wild  1'ruit-  to  p-ap  a  erop  of  maixe. 

"./•//'/  1'J.  —  A  dri/xling  mi-t  -et  in  during  the  night  and  eon- 
tinii'-d  tin-  nioriiin^  ;  we -et  oil'  in  the  dark,  however,  leavir^ 
our  l:\-l  lood  ('«.r  ihe  havildar  and  Sepo\  -  who  had  not  vet  come 
up.  The -tn-am- are  now  of  good  si/.e.  An  Arab  brand v  IM»I tie 
wa.-  Ivis.j-  br-!x'-;i  i;i  one  village  milled  M-apa.  \\'e  hurried  on 
as  fa-t  a-  \\>-  <.,u!.l  to  the  Lnati/e.  our  la~!  >ta^i-  bell  ire  Betting 
to  Mataua'~  ;  tin-  -tr-aiu  i-  rapid,  about  li>rtv  \':ird-  '.\  ide,  \\-ai-t 

deep,  \\itll    IMailV   pod"-telllo||>   it!)    tile    bottom.         The   eollillrv  !_ret- 

rnore  and  nio|-e  undulating  and  i-  enventl  with  ma--e-  «\'  ^r.-en 
foliage,  ehii-tlv  Ma-nko  tre.-,  \\hieh  ha\c  lar^e  hard  l-a\i--. 
Th- -re  are  hippopotami  farther  down  the  river  on  it-  \\av  to  tin- 
IxH'iidi,  A  little  net-  whieli  had  been  kept  for  me  I  dividnl, 
but  -om,-  did  not  ta-te  lood. 

"./"'//  ].",.  —  A  g "od  manv  stragglers  Ix-hind,  but  \\c  pn-h  on 
t-<  v"-t  l""d  and  -«-ntl  it  baek  to  them.  The  -oil  all  ivddi-h  e!av, 
th<  roa  1-  balv-'d  hard  bv  the  -un,  and  the  fret  of  manv  of  u- 
are  \\varv  and  -on- :  a  \M-arv  nnreh  and  long,  for  it  i-  jMTjH-tually 
up  and  do\\  :i  MOW.  I  counted  lii'ieen  running  streams  in  om 

d.lV  :     th'A     ar-1     a!      til-'    boltolll     of    the    ValleV    wlliell    -ep;U-ate-     the 

rj, !_'•-.  \\  -  j-ot  to  the  brow  of  a  rid^--  about  an  hour  from 
Mif:tk;.'-  tir-t  L'ardi-n-,  and  all  were  >••  t  inil  that  \\  e  remained 

to   ~\.  •  ji  ;     I  ill!     we    !ir-t     invited    Volunteer-    to   _-o   on    and    1  >IIV    lood. 

and  liiitij  i;  !'•!'•!•.  t-arlv  n>-\t  morning:  ih-v  had  !••  !•«•  p!'--d 
to  do  'I,;-  du:v. 

••./'•'/  II.  \-  -iiir  \  o!mit'-«T-  did  not  eom.-  at  >  A.M..  I  -«•! 
oil  fo  >ii-  the  '"iii-.  ,  and  at!-  T  an  hour  "i  |»  rp-  Mi:i!  up  and  d»  .\  n 
III  if  h,  a-  1  d'--'''iid'd  ill-  -(•  i-p  -lupi-  \vllieil  oVi-rlmik-  th«-  lir-t 
^ardi-n-,  I  -a'.1.  m\  tri«  nd-  -'  irt  up  at  the  jippanl  i"ii  lh«-v  \\  •  f 
r^mfortablv  eookinj  p<-!  i  !•!/••  li.r  tlein-'-lve-  I  -•  nt  Me  n  of 


A    MODKL   TOWN    OF    AFRU'A. 


.'{71 


Mataku  back  with  food  to  the  stragglers  behind  ami  came  into 
his  town." 

An  A  ral>,  Sef  Rupia,  <»r  Ruliia,  head  of  a  large  body  of  r-laves 
on  his  \vav  tn  the  coast,  most  kindlv  came  forward  ami  pnx-ntt.il 
the  doctor  with  an  ox,  a  hag  of  flour  and  sonic  cooked  meat,  an 
I'Xtremelv  welcome  offering  indeed  ! 

Mataka's  town  was  found  to  consist  of  about  a  thousand 
houses,  and  around  it  clustered  many  small  villages.  All  about 
them  were  mountains,  clothed  in  lovely  green.  It  was  a  very 
beautiful  spot,  anil  though  only  recently  .selected  the  people  of 
this  chic!'  were  already  entirely  at  home.  It  mu.-t  be  under- 
stood that  towns  may  spring  up  in  a  night  almost  in  a  country 
where  all  the  structures  are  so  simple  and  temporary  ;  an  entire 
tribe  mav  >ett!e  comfortably  \\ith  almost  as  much  despatch  u.- 
an  army  can  pitch  its  tents.  The  famous  chieftain,  Mataka. 
kept  his  visitor  waiting  some  time  on  the  verandah  of  his  hou.*e, 
but  when  he  made  his  appearance  his  good-natured  face  wa.- 
wreathed  in  smiles.  lie  was  about  sixty,  dressed  as  an  Arab, 
and  too  good-humored  to  conceal  his  enjoyment  of  a  good  laugh  ; 
and  it  was  not  long  before  he  had  the  wearv  traveller  snuglv 
set  up  in  a  square  house  like  his  own,  where  we  will  allow  him 
a  little  breathing  time. 


( •  1 1  A  P  T  I :  Pv    XXI. 

AI'I'KoAc  llIN(i     N  YASSA. 

A  f'ru^M  -if  M:ttak:i     Tip-  \V.i:y:iu     I.i\  iir.'-t.in,-  and  th«-  Aral"*  — The  Town  of 
M.H-tnli.-     Ir»L-   Siii'-liiiu"     <':iu-'--"I"  I  >'--.lati"ii   -  \V:iiyau   IV-vriUil  -  I.iviiiir- 

»t. .i,r'«  I».-:r-  •-  Sl:i\ .  Tr.i'l-  •:  !>".•«  it  l'.i\  '  >•  |...y*  v.Mlt  hark  — Mountain*  - 
>|.rn,.>  Ir.,:.  A  |.|.p ..-..  hi,,.-  N  \  .i-.i  l.i\  ir,^t..n.  '«  U.  virw  ..f  Ins  t;.,ut,- 

Th.    \V.i'.-r-!,..|      |..-i,-.i]   r..nu:Hi..M>      Ku.'ln.-.  ..f  III.-  1V.,|,1,.      T>;  Sin-jit 

I'm-.,      An    I  x .i!i.|.:.-   -.f  i   !ir.Mi:in-      !n.-,,i, v.-ni.-ii. l'l--iii-    l-ji-Ii-li      Ar.il.i 

a.-  .-».[•:. -r-  \  l>..:il.:!ul  <^>i.  -11. .11  >.  iti.  •!  I'..M  Miiii!..i  Amuiiil  tin-  !•'.«•(  «.f 
I!i.-  I..IN--  \'..  I!  irtirjU.il,.-  Kii'.-.»  n  >:l. •-  -I  '  '!•!  N':!l.i-.'. •»  l'.r.».k-  Tin-  I  ir»t 
K'ir..|~-.iii  S.-.-:i  -ii.-IT.».k  linn"  \ViK.,t.ii;i  I'iii-l-  l:r!.itiv.->  >.ill- Milking 
-  l.u-i, :>•[,..-  >!.i\,-H  :,.  a  I'-,,  \V.,rk  II..!i..r.iM.-. 

IN  iHir  ciMiiturtalilt*  h«»iu«^,  >iirrnuiiilr«l  liv  tin-  coiivciuriicts 
a.nl  i  \;  i'ava_r:iii'-'--  aH'onliil  l>\  i-tiitnn-  and  \\callli,  tin-  ]»|-ci-|»cct 
i»,  tun  \VI«'K-  f'-'T»  at  inn  in  an  Ati'i'-an  villaifr  ulnn-  no  white 
MI-HI  liad  rv-r  l>.«'ii  l»ct'-»n-,  \\iih  <ml\  a  hut  «l  \\attlr  an<l  dault 
t-  -lii'-l-l  ii-  from  tin-  rav~  of  a  tropical  -nn  ami  tin-  j>r\  iii'j  ira/c 


(!.••  -nnjili  -t  -!!_'_'«-[ ;o;i~  of  n.i;ii]f  in  ihrir  ciilinarv  art.  and  tin* 
.-•  'i«'tv  o{  tlii'  ino-i  nut nlor.  (]  licailifii,  wmilii  hardlv  IM-  i-allc<l 
'  li^htful  ;  Ini!  at!'  r  tlii-  \M-.iriii'  — •  ai.tl  an.Mctv  o|  a  lon_r  mitrch 
..•TO--  a  tlioruii_'hlv  ill— <i!:itr  i-oimtrv  ,  ^it.-r  having  IM-CH  di'jirivi1*! 
o(  cv«-rv  en  ulo|-; ,  1 1  a\  i-l  hn_r  man  v  da\  -  u  ith  hardlv  IIMM!  riioii^h 
to  -u-tain  !  li  ,  \>;.  Living-loin-  \\a-  lii!!\-  pn  |Kin-il  to  a|>|>n  •  iatc 
til--  kindii  —  ^  ot'  M  itaua  vi-rv  hijhlv.  'I  In-  rlii.  f  pruvi-d  him-flf 
a  v<  r\  _'i-ii'-roii-.  ho-jnta'ilt1  man,  and  rctvivrd  kitidlv  tin- MI^- 
^"--tuni-  n!  1  >;•.  Living-toil'-,  and  -it-nu-d  to  «  ii|"\-  I-XITI  dm^lv 
•  ou\.  r-.i'ioii  .i'«"ii!  ill--  i-n-ioin-  and  im|ifo\ .  -im  nt-  ot  tin-  i-oijn- 
tis  "t  t!t>-  s\!nt«-  man.  II-  had  li'-«n  a  \  •  r\  ai'tivc  part  i<  i|'.int 
;u  t  h'-  -!a\  '  1 1  .td>  .  and  \\  i  IM  <  d  -oiii'  1 1  m«  -  iiinli-r  t  In  atv'imi  nt.-< 
ft  h ;  -  \  ,  - 1  *  or,  n  h  i'  !i  -i  .  i  HI  d  to  n  in\  |i  t  him  i  it  'j'"'  at  tol  i  \  a  I  id 
\\  :o[i_'  in  tii.i'  in. t't.t.  Ih-  to\\  M  i-  nut  t.ir  from  tin'  \\a--a 
"niutrv,  to':ud  \\i,!.li  I  ,i\  ur_'-tonc  \\a-  |oii  nn  \  i  n  j-.  'I  h<- 
\\ai\an  II.IM-  i--n  |.|«:t\-  ,_••  n<  !  a! !  v  -ujijilii-d  uith  j/uiii  and 


UVINCJSTONK    AND   TMK    ARABS.  .'i73 

such  other  appliances  of  war  as  may  make  them  useful  allies  of 
the  Aral*  traders.  The  plan  pursued  by  these  traders,  with 
considerable  success,  is  to  come  iut'»  a  NVaiyau  village,  show  tin; 
goods  thev  have  brought,  are  treated  liberally  by  the  elders,  and 
told  to  wait  and  enjoy  themselves,  slaves  enough  to  purchase  all 
uill  be  procured  :  then  a  Ibrav  is  made  again-t  the  Manganja, 
who  liave  few  or  no  gnus.  The  \\'aiyau  who  come  against 
them  are  abundantly  supplied  with  l>oth  by  their  coast  quests. 
Several  of  the  low-coast  Arabs,  who  dill'cr  in  nothing  i'roin  the 
\Vaivan,  usuallv  accompanv  the  Ibrav,  and  do  busine.-s  on  their 
own  account:  .Mataka  himself  .-aid  that  he  W:LS  growing 
tired  of  it  and  desired  to  settle  down  in  quiet.  It  was  not 
the  poliev  of  1  Jving.-  tone,  as  some  have  supposed,  to  put  him- 
self in  antagonism  with  the  traders  who  were  traversing  the 
country  ;  he  was  only  an  individual,  and  bent  immediately  on 
t'le  solution  of  problems  connected  with  the  great  water-courses 
c  f  the  countrv,  a  work  bearing,  indeed,  directly,  but  only  re- 
i  lotely,  on  the  condition  of  the  people  of  the  continent.  lie  was, 
1  owcver,  a  Christian  man,  a  philanthropist,  a  missionary  at 
1  cart,  and  as  far  as  lav  in  his  power  sought  to  break  the  power 
c  f  the  evil  which  he  saw  extending  its  mighty  coils  all  over  the 
hind.  The  Arabs  always  sought  to  avoid  him,  apprehending 
that  his  mission  was  to  break  up  their  trade.  lie  had  no 
thought  of  doiiiLT  that,  except  so  t!ir  as  it  might  be  diminished 
1  y  the  moral  influence  he  should  be  able  to  exert.  And  on  this 
ournev,  as  on  those  through  the  more  southern  countrv.  the 
personal  power  of  the  man  was  shown,  as  much  as  in  anvthing 
else,  by  the  readiness  with  which  he  impressed  his  ideas  of  right 
on  thi'  minds  of  the  people  among  whom  he  appeared  as  an 
entire  stranger. 

Living-tone  was  particularly  favorably  impressed  with  the 
country  surrounding  Moembc,  as  Mataka's  town  was  called. 
Immense  tracts  of  this  cmintrv  lie  uninhabited,  the  scene  onlv 
of  the  undisturbed  revelry  of  wild  beasts.  To  the  northca-t  of 
the  town  at  least  liftv  miles  Of  splendid  land  lies  neglected — an 
unanswerable  prote.-t  aLTain-t  the  trade  which  has  carried  awav 
its  once  thrift v  population  into  bondage.  This  vast  traet  pre- 
sents, as  Livingstone  a>-mvs  us,  unmistakable  evidences  of 
having  supported  in  other  times  a  prodigious  iron-smelting  and 


o74  THK    WAIYAT    RACE. 

grain-growing  popnlation.  ('lav  pi|H->,  which  had  IHHMI  used  on 
the  no/xles  of  U-llows  ami  iu^ert^l  into  the  furnaces,  were  inrt 
with  every  wh«  re :  t  hoe  were  often  vitrified.  Then  the  ridges 
on  which  mai/.e,  U-an-,  ca— ava,  ami  -orU'hnin  had  been  planted, 
remained  uiilcvel led,  attesting  the  industry  of  the  former  inhab- 
itant.'. I'iiiv-  of  hrokt-n  j>ot.s,  with  their  rims  ornamented  with 
verv  giMid  imitations  ofbusket  work,  allot  that  the  ladv  {Hitters 
of  old  followed  here  the  example  given  them  by  their  -till  more 
ancient  mothers.  File  desolation  of  this  splendid  region  could 
not  \*'  attributed  to  those  causo  which  had  ojHTated  farther 
south.  The  ground  was  fertile,  and  there  were  anv  nnml)er  of 
Iroh,  cool  fountains.  It  is  a  va-t  .-ncce— ion  of  hills  and  vallevs, 
with  numerous  running  .-tream^.  1'he  .in-African  >  mnd  <>t 
gushing  wateiN,  dishing  over  the  rocks  was  >\vect  mn>ic  in  hl- 
ears,  and  brought  l»ack  frohlv  to  hi--  mind  the  eharining  >«-en»s 
<>t'  !n-  n\vn  far-awav  land.  lie  rni'iitioiis  eotintintr  liftet-n  run- 
ning burns  of  Iroin  OIK-  to  ten  vards  wide  in  one  <lav'>  march 
ot'  about  -i\  hours;  l^-ing  in  a  hiilv  <T  rather  mountainous 
region,  thev  il"\v  rajiidlv  and  havi-  pleiilv  of  \\ater-jmwcr.  In 
Jnlv  anv  mere  torrent  CC:IM-S  to  (low,  lint  the-e  were  brawling 
burn-  \\ith  uater  too  cold  i'»l  i  for  pi-ojilc  !'•  bathe  in  who-e 
ports  were  all  open  bv  the  relaxinu;  region-  nearer  the  coa.-t. 
This  ili-ti-j.-t  i-  verv  elevated,  ri-iin;  thirt v-fonr  hundred  i'ect 
abovi1  the  level  of'  tl'e  sea.  I  he  atmosphere  i-  mm-t,  and  the 
skv  i-  gi-m-rallv  oveiva-t  until  ten  o'el'«-k  in  the  dav. 

The  NVaivail  are  de-cril>ed  as  t'ar  Iroin  a  hand>ome  race,  but 
they  are  nut  the  |  n"' >_r  Mat  IP  Hi-,  bi-in_r-  one  sits  on  the  wot  coa-t 
cither.  I  IP  ir  hi-ads  are  o|  around  -hape  ;  compact  forehead-, 
but  not  partienlarlv  receding  :  the  "/•'  /<»*!  are  flattened  out; 
lip-  {'nil.  and  \sitli  the  \\..men  a  -mall  lip-rm_T  jn-t  turn-,  them 
upto'_-i\e  additional  thii'knc--.  Th- ir  -tylc  of'  beantv  i-  e\- 
nctlv  tin'  '.-.  iiieh  \\.i-  iii  fa-hioii  \\heii  the  -t.,ne  deities  wcri- 
inad-  in  !  h<  i-iVi--  of  ]•'.]•  plianta  and  Keiiora  n- ar  I'oiubav.  A 
la\nriti-  i  n,.|e  of  ilr----iii'_'  the  hair  into  little  kn-.l,-,  \\hieh  \\  a- 
in  !:i-!i  •••>  tiit  re.  i-  more  eoiiim-in  in  -onie  tiiU---  tliaii  in  tin-. 
'I  (it-  nr  -  i- !,  •  i  ••'  i  he  \\  i  -MH-II  \\  mild  n-  it  be  -o  1 1 :- 1-  ••  -n-  \\  it  h  a  -mai  I 
lip-nn_'  it  'li-s  di-l  not  ti!--  tli-ir  teith  to  point-;  but  thev  -t-i-m 
htr-'ii-  :i!i-l  a!-!.-  t..r  the  \\tirk  \\hi.-h  tall-  to  th-  ir  !-.t.  Th--  n\'-n 
nr«-  lar/-  ,  -trt>n^  Imijetj  li  llo-.\ -,  and 


THK    DKSIK1X    OF    HIS    IIKAUT.  '.'*- 

Gitigue.  They  undergo  u  rite  which  once  distinguished  the 
Jews  :ilx)Ut  the  age  of  pnU'rty,  and  take  a  new  name  on  th" 
o<v;ision.  This  was  nut  introduced  by  the  A  nibs,  who-e  a<lvent 
is  a  recent  event,  and  they  speak  of  the  time  before  they  wen- 
inundated  with  European  manufactures  in  exchange  for  .-lave-, 
as  ([tiite  »vithin  their  memory. 

Besides  their  healthful  and  productive  locality,  they  arc  in 
possession  of  cattle  MI  considerable  numbers.  The.-e,  however, 
are  of  rather  a  small  breed,  black  and  white  in  patches,  and 
brown,  with  humps,  but  thev  give  milk  which  i-  dulv  pri/ed. 
The  sheep  are  the  large-tailed  variety,  and  generally  of  a  black 
color.  Fowls  and  pigeons  are  the  only  other  dome-tie  animal-, 
if  we  except  the  wretched  village  dogs,  which  the  doctcr's 
poodle  had  immense  delight  in  chasing. 

The  heart  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  always  burning  with  desire  to 
see  Africa  open  to  the  light  of  the  gospel,  could  liardlv  have 
failed  to  lix  on  such  a  spot  :  he  saw  it  not  only  as  offering  in- 
ducements to  the  great  gain-loving  world,  but  as  proclaiming 
great  encouragement  to  those  who  were  waiting  for  a  footing  for 
their  missionary  enterprises:  within  the  heart  of  the  continent. 
As  he  looked  on  the  fertile  gardens  and  enjoyed  the  plenty 
which  surrounded  him,  he  thought  of  the  abandoned  mi.-.-ion 
station  at  Magomero.  lie  was  not  blind  to  the  difficulties  con- 
fronting and  besetting  the  missionary  continuallv.  He  did  not 
depreciate  the  losses  incurred — losses  of  monev  and  prvejoii- 
lives  as  well — in  prosecuting  the  work  of  -avinu-  the  heath-Mi  ; 
but  he  saw  everywhere  he  went  in  that  land  men  ha/anlin^  a- 
nuich  and  sacrificing  as  much  for  the  enslavement  of'  the  people 
as  the  Christian  world  would  need  to  ha/ard  or  sacrifice  tor 
their  conversion,  and  he  iva-oned  well  and  ri^hilv  \\hcii  he 
entered  in  his  journal  — 

"It  -truck  me  after  Set'  had  numbered  up  the  lo<-e-  that  the 
Kilwa  people  sustained  bv  death  in  their  endeavors  to  en-lave 
people,  similar  losses  on  the  part  of'  tho.-e  who  uo  to  '  proclaim 
libertv  to  the  captive.-,  the  opening  of  the  pri-on  to  them  that 
are  bound' — to  .-ave  and  elevate,  need  not  be  made  -o  \vrv 
much  of  as  they  sometimes  are." 

Livingstone  was  very  far  from  having  lost  his  inteiv.-t  in  the 
missionary  work.  He  had,  indeed,  been  led  awav  from  the 


;;7fi  MOUNTAINS    AND   STREAMS. 

more  legitimate  duties  of  a  Christian  teacher,  but  as  an  explorer 
he  \v;is  animated  l»y  the  saint-  dt>ire  to  glorify  (iml  mid  tlo  good 
t«>  men  which  had  animated  him  when  he  left  his  native  land  in 
the  tir-t  love  of  his  conserratioii.  And  to  the  hi>t  he  seemed 
alway-  animat»tl  by  the  dt>ire  to  solve  the  mysteries  of  tin-  land 
on!v  that  In-  mi^ht  the  more  successfully  earrv  out  his  great 
scheme  of  otahli.-hing  a  strong  central  mission  in  the  heart  of 
TJie  coiintrv,  \vhenee  the  influences  of  Christianity  might  more 
re-.ulilv  penetrate  the  whole  land. 

S. .  much  trouble  had  Ixvn  experiencetl  with  the  Sepovs  that 
Living-tout*  wa-  at  la-t  obliged  to  divide  against  attempting  to 
c-.irrv  'ii'-m  farther.  Thev  had  sought  bv  everv  mean-  to  pro- 
duce di -a  flection  atnoni;  hi>  fi>llowers  and  even  to  excite  the 
native-  ;!'_';u!i~t  him.  So  having  arningiil  lor  them  to  return  to 
the  eoa-t  with  a  re-|xftal»le  trade,  he  parted  eompanv  with  them 
at  M»etii!><-.  lea\  ii:_r  tin-in  a  fe\v  da\  -  in  the  care  of  Mataka. 

(  )n  t!ie  'Jsili  ,,f  .lu!v  Mataka  c:iine  \\itli  a  i_'""d  1"!  of  tl"iir 
and  men  to  -jnide  the  jiartv  to  the  lake  ;  he  had  In- fore  pre-i -m*  d 
an  ox,  and  ln>  iruot-  wen-  thus  prepared  to  .-•  t  out  in  P*H! 
pj'irit-.  Then-  are  two  roads  from  hi-  town  to  tin-  lake — -one  to 
I- o-c\va,  \\liii-lt  i-  \\e-t  of  thi-,  and  op|>o-ite  Kotak"ta  ;  the 
o,  her,  to  Makatu.  i-  farther  -onth  :  the  lir.-t  i-  live  da\  -  through 
d' —Tied  count r\'  chieflv  ;  hut  the  other,  seven,  amonLT  jM-oJileand 
p'eiitv  of  jirovi-ioii-  all  the  wav.  Mataka  told  Living-tone 
t!  at  lie  \\oiiM  not  -end  him  to  Lo-rwa,  as  that  place  !iad  Ixeii 

I'    ei   litiv    lillVIied.    lillt    liV    the    mol't  •   -( .1 1 1 !  lefll    follte,  \\  1 1 !' 'll .    tllOllgll 

:  lin!"  lonj.-r  r<-ad,  wa-  -at«T  and  licit, T.  The  \\ho!e  eonntry 
\\a-  a  ma--  of  mountain-,  and  on  leaving  Moemlw  the  partv 
ri-.-'-iid-d  con-ideral)Iv,  anil  toward  evening  of  the  t'n-t  day's 
in  ii'li  tli<-  Itarometer -howed  t  lie  <j-rcate-t  altitude  alioiit  tlurty- 

f..'ir     Illllldl-'-d     I'-et     alniVe     tile     l.'V'-l    of'    tile   -.-a.         J''.\  '  I'\  \\  In  fe    i  II 

t!,.  -••    Hi.  .iin'ain-    there    were    village*-;    generally    th«-e    villa^«- 

lio-i-t.-d  ale. nt  •  hundred    h"H~,-.       Nnnx-roii-  -j-i-in^ almnt 

v.hi.h  nnmi-takalile  indication-  of  iron  appeanil  -nllordeil 
alinndati' i-  of  water.  I'>- aiitifnl  'jn-en  urra--  \\a-  \\  a\  in^'  i-\  cry- 
uh'-r.-,  a;id  tl"\\ir-  ot'  \arioii-  liri-jht  line-. 

Th-  t-  in|"  rat  in  •••  on  tli.-«-  mountain-  wa-  much  lo\vi  r  than 
Miiin-  mav  dr.  am  ot'  in  -n<  h  a  latitude;  on  the  'J'.'th  of  .Inly, 
al*-'iit  tin  -nmmit  of  the  rairj.  ,  it  \srv-  in  the  morning  •>">  onlv. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  REVIKW.  ;>77 

The  trees  were  rather  small  and  Ijccame  scantier  as  they  descended 
toward  the  lake,  hut  the  ferns,  rhododendrons  and  a  foliage  tree 
greatly  resembling  silver  fir  were  frequently  seen. 

Kvery  day  they  came  near  slave  parties,  hut  the  Arabs  always 
avoided  the  ICnglishman.  The  country  though  was  bex-oming 
ini. re  familiar-looking  as  they  came  nearer  the  Nyassa,  and  Liv- 
ingstone welcomed  the  appearance  of  the  familiar  grasses  and 
the  singing  birds  which  now  began  to  add  their  charms  to  their 
camping  grounds. 

I'nder  date  of  the  Sth  of  August,  a  little  more  than  four 
months  from  the  time  of  his  entering  the  country,  in  his  jour- 
nal we  read  :  "  We  came  to  the  lake  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Misinje,  and  felt  grateful  to  that  Hand  which  had  pro- 
tected us  thus  far  on  our  journey.  It  was  as  if  I  had  come  back 
to  an  old  home  I  never  expected  again  to  sec."  Glancing 
over  the  district  across  which  we  have  followed  the  traveller 
back  to  the  lake  on  whose  waters  we  remember  that  lie  launched 
his  little  boats  some  vears  ago,  it  will  certainly  be  profitable  fur 
us  to  have  his  own  language  about  its  geological  features;  con- 
cerning these  he  s-.ys  :  ''The  plateaux  on  each  side  of  the  Ro- 
vuma  are  masses  of  gray  sandstone,  capped  with  masses  of  ferru- 
ginous conglomerate-;  apparently  an  aqueous  deposit.  When  we 
ascend  the  Rovuma  about  sixty  miles,  a  great  many  pieces  and 
blocks  of  siiicified  wood  appear  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  at  the 
bottom  of  the  slope  up  the  plateaux.  This  jn  Africa  is  a  sure 
indication  of  the  presence  of  coal  beneath,  but  it  was  not  observed 
cropping  out  ;  the  plateaux  are  cut  up  in  various  directions  bv 
wadys  well  supplied  with  grass  and  trees  on  deep  and  somewhat 
sandy  soil  ;  but  at  the  confluence  of  the  Locndi  highlands  they 
appear  in  the  far  distance.  In  the  sands  of  the  Locndi  pieces 
of  coal  are  quite  common. 

"  Before  reaching  the  confluence  of  the  Rovuma  and  Loendi, 
or  sav  about  ninety  miles  from  the  sea,  the  p'-Ueau  is  succeeded 
bv  a  more  level  countrv,  having  detached  <jrai:'tic  ma.-ses  shoot- 
ing up  some  five  or  seven  hundred  feet.  The  sandstone  of  the 
plateau  has  at  first  been  hardened,  then  quite  metamorphosed 
into  a  chocolate-colored  schist.  AS  at  Chilole  hill,  we  have 
igneous  rocks,  apparently  trap,  capped  with  masses  of  beautiful 
white  dolomite.  We  .-till  ascend  in  altitude  as  we  go  westwards, 


•i7S  (.KOI.4MJK  AL    nUIMATIONS. 

and  Mime  upon  lou^  tra^t-  of  unei^s  with  hornblende.  Tlio 
^iK-i-s  i>  often  striated,  all  t  he  striu?  looking  one  way — sometime 
north  and  -otith.and  at  other  times  ea-t  ami  wi^t.  Tins**  rocks 
!<">k  as  if  a  stnitifntl  lock  had  bc<-n  m-arlv  melted,  and  the  strata 
fu~cd  together  l»v  the  heat.  1'Yoin  the>e  striated  rocks  have 
-hot  up  L'i'eat  roiimleil  masxs  of  granite  or  svrnitr,  \\  |IOM>  snuNith 
-ide-  and  iTn\vii<  contain  wtirwly  anv  trws,  ami  arc  prolwildy 
jV"ii»  thi'ii-  t'»  f>ur  thousand  f«t-t  alx>vt'  the  >ca.  Tlie  elevated 
jilains  auj.iu^  thc-c  mountain  ina— «es  sliciw  ^n-at  patches  of  fcr- 
i-;!jii)"iis  i  .in_rlo:i)rratc,  nhieh,  \vheM  broken,  look  like  vellmv 
h:i'ina:ite  \\it!i  madrepore  lioKs  in  it  :  this  has  made  the  «-oil 

•  >f  a  red  color. 

"  <  >:i  tli"  watershed  \\  e  have  still  the  rounded  jrranitie  hilU 
jntli:i^  aliove  the  plains  (ifsneh  thev  mav  l>e  c-.i!lc .\\,  which  are 
•i.l  IIJP-  and  d«»\vns,  and  furmwed  \\iih  innutnenil>le  rnniiin^ 
r;ll«,  the  Minreis  «if  the  Koviiina  and  L'-ndi.  The  highest  nn-k 
(>!>-rrY'd  rvith  mica  >chi>t  was  at  an  altitude  of  three  thousand 
four  hunilretl  and  fortv  !»•<•(.  The  .-aine  nni-ven  comiirv  prevails 
a-s  \\'-  pr«M-i-ed  from  tin-  watershed  a!»oiit  tortv  mill  -  down  to  the 
I'lk--.  and  a  -Teat  deal  of  quart/,  in  >tu;i!l  fragments  renders 

1 

!   aveUin^  v»-rv  dinieiilt.       Near    tin-    la!. e,  and    a!o;ij  it^  ea-teni 

•  IOP-,  we  have  mica  .-chi-t  and  ^nei--  \'<  liated,  with  a  threat  deal 
of  hornblende  ;  l>ut  the  ino-t  remarkable  feature  of  it  is  that  the 
rtck-    are    all    tilted    ,,n    i-d'je.  or    >!i'_rlitl\'  inclined  to    the    lake. 
The  active  a'/ent   in  eHectiii'j    thi-    i-    not   vi-ib'e.       Ii   lo. -k-  a-  if 
a  Hidden  rent   had  Keen  made,  M>  a*  to  form  t he  lake,  and  tilt  all 
t:ie-c  r-M-k-  nearlv  over.      <  >n  theca-t   vid.-   of  the  lo-\e|-  part   ot' 
the  lake  \\-,.  have    two    rairje-  <>f   mountain-,  i-videntlv  L'ramtic. 
t  lie  M.  ai'er  "He  r-ovi-red  with  Mnal  1  t  ree-  aii  1   !•".•,    r  t  lian  t  he  other  ; 
the  o;  h.  r    ja/-_"  d  and  bare,  or  of  tin-  -ra:i:'  i  •  form-.       Hut   in  all 
:!•'-  iniinrrv  no  |b--il-vieldin^    ri»-l^  ua-  \i-i:>!''   except  the<_rrav 

•  and-!on.-  rej'erred   to  at   the  b»-_'innin  _-  "f  \\i\-    \\n\\-.       The  ro<  l.s 

:•  :!v  t!tc  old  ery-talline  I'orm-." 

'I  •  •  1  of  :  he  di  -:  1'iet  i-  -/ood,  aii'!  \\  a'>  r  \:<-\\>  ra  1 1 v  abundant. 
N.  /;..  r  i. ad  h-  -ulT.-red  i»ar:ienlar!y  i;i  h'-allh.  I  t'  he  had  be.-n 

M    ll  ''M-HWV       \,,ll!d     ll.lVe    I.een    a 

..si-  mar- h.       'Ih-p.  ..pie    of    Malv 1..   Maloa    and     \\'aivai| 

l»:i'l  all  I-.:,  jj.ri.T...,.  and  kind;  the  chief.  Lad  r.-adily  n-nden-d 
!ii:u  u'.l  i»<«d'd  a-- !- ta:i>  .(  and  -••»  in.  d  !o  appreciate  t  lie  le^-ona 


WHICH    IS    MOUK    INSI'IUINfJ?  ;;<) 

of  nol>l<  r  manhood  ho  had  nought  to  impress,  on  them.  Ovi-r 
all  the  district  ono  particular  curse  had  settled  and  \va-  iv.-ting 
with  most  blighting  influence.  The  people  were  rude  barbarian*, 
of  course,  hut  were  teachable  and  kind.  lint  no  established 
creed  or  dominant  superstition  occupied  the  ground  to  withstand 
the  ingress  of  Christianity  ;  no  popular  prejudices  stood  armed 
guarding  the  coast  against  the  purer  customs  of  civilization. 
Only  the  slave-trade,  encouraged  by  foreigners,  watched  with 
jealous  eve  evcrv  approach  of  the  j)iirer  li^ht  and  ennobling  in- 
lluences  of  a  Christian  civilization  to  the  villages  and  bonus  of 
the  unfortunate  people  on  whose  ignorance  it  paid  them  to 
impose,  and  whose  deepest  degradation  was  the  surest  source  of 
their  unbolv  gains.  Relieved  of  this  one  evil  and  the  whole 
region  over  which  he  had  passed  might  be  esteemed  as  a  goodly 
land,  where  Christian  laborers  might  live  peacefully  and  heahh- 
fnlly.  And  as  for  the  difficulty  of  access  and  the  transportation 
of  supplies — Arabs  are  not  discouraged  by  these  difficulties  from 
pressing  their  trade,  which  is  only  for  gain,  and  surely  it  is 
worth  as  much  to  the  Christian  world  to  accomplish  the  re- 
demption of  these  poor  people.  The  journev  to  the  lak>-  had 
Ix'en  enlivened  bv  verv  little  of  incident.  \'erv  lew  animals 
had  been  seen,  except  such  harmless  ones  as  excited  not  even 
a  passing  notice.  lint  tin1  feat  wa<  performed  :  the  old  pur[K>-e 
of  Livingstone  to  settle  the  (jtiestion  about  the  countrv  between 
the  month  of  the  Rovuma  and  the  Lake  Xvassa  ;  and  he  was 
once  more  enjoying  the  roar  of  its  waves  and  luxurious  bath.? 
in  its  delightful  waters,  and  rejoicing  in  its  exhilarating  atmo-- 
pin-re.  The  head  man  of  the  village,  Mokalao-e,  \vas  a  real 
Manganja,  and  he  and  all  hi-  people  exhibited  Lrreater  darkness 
of  color  con.-c(|ucnt  on  being  in  a  warmer,  moi-t  climate.  lie 
was  verv  friendlv  and  presented  millet  porridge,  ca--ava  and 
hippopotamus  meat,  and  a-kcd  if  Livingstone  liked  milk,  a-  he 
had  some  of  Mataka's  cattle.  His  people  brought  a  lake  ti-li. 
called  sanjika,  the  be<t  that  N  caught,  ibr  sale.  Livingstone 
purchased  fii'tv  of  these  for  a  fathom  ot' calico,  and  thought  that 
thev  had  verv  much  the  taste  of  herring. 

The  reader  may  remember  that  in  his  Zambe-i  expedition 
when  ascending  this  lake  Livingstone  obtained  knowledge  of  an 
Arab  settlement  on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake,  the  chief  man 


JJ^j,  1XVOXVF.XIKX    K    OF    1JF.IXG    KX(iI.ISH. 

of  which  w:is   named   .Juml'c.      He  ii»\v  clrsiml  to  stvurr  a  pas- 

.Kl^c  aero-.-  I  he  lake,  and  knowing  .Iinnl*1  to  U-  ill  po— e->ioll  of 
M'Vel-.ll  dho\V-,  despatched  Ille— e!|-_'er<  to  liilil  I  lean  IILT  tile  letter 

ofS-ved  Majid — received  at  /an/ilur — while  he  hn-ied  him-elf 
with  hi-  j.'iirnal  ami  olj^Tvatiou-. 

All  of  hi-  atteiii|it-,  however,  t"  -• -en  p-  transportation  failitl, 
and  he  \\a.-  under  the  nece>.-itv  of  making  the  circuit  of  the 

southern     end     of    the     lake.        All'l     Hat  lira  1 1 V   e||o||^h     he   felt     for 

onee  tliat  it  was  rather  inconvenient  to  have  the  Aral'-,  even  the 
-lav--,  h"M  the  Knjrli-h  name  in  ,-'.ieh  <lrea«l.  The  li-ar  \\hieh 
the  Kn_'ii-h  o|i|)o-iti»n  had  inspirit)  tin --e  trader-  with  eaii-ed 

thrill    I"    ]-!lll    a\\aV    iVoll)     Livin^-loIU1   on    all    oee;i-loM<.        Till-    III  I 

onlv  ilej.ri\--d  him  of  the  r«  !!••!'  uhii-h  even  the  fire  of  an  An  ^ 
nii^ht  -oiijr'inte-  ha\r  eontrilniteil,  luit  ^reatlv  inerea-ed  t!.« 
dill'n  nit v  of  -ending  letter-  to  the  eoa-t.  .Ininl'e  ha-  made  hit  i- 
self  partieijlarlv  noiorion-  in  eomiertion  \\i:h  the  slavc-tnide 
and  Living-tune  appreheiidet]  .M'-kala-'-e'-  \'<  ar-  of  the  \\'aiy;  i. 
Would  make  him  wrleome  .Inmlie  at  hi-  l"\\n.  and  then  the  A  r;  !• 
Would  -ornr  day  have  an  o|i|M,i-!tinity  . .f  -ratti-rinj  hi-  jnojili-:.- 
he  ha-  d"'.ie  th"-e  at  l\..t.ik"ta.  IL-  ha-  made  I  .o-,-\\  a  to. .  h..t 
Tor  him-rii'.  \\'!.'-n  the  people  th«  |-e  \\,rr  ."irri.d  oil'  |,y  Mataka  - 
jxi'pl'  ,  .lumlie  -ei/r«l  their  -top  -  of  ;_',aiii.  ai.d  n^u  ha-  no  po-t 
•  ouhirh  he  ran  L;O  tlnT.-.  Tin-  L"an-\sa  A  ral  •-  Lri  \"e  an  a\\  fill 
a---  c  .n  [ii  i  >f  .In  m  I"-*-  m  n  I'd  •  r-  ami  -ellnr^  the  people,  I  ml  one  ean- 
i\«\  take  it  all  in  ;  at  the  mi!  1.  -t  it  mn-!  hav  \«<]\  had.  I  hi- 
i-  all  tl.ev  ever  do;  l!i«\  ranii"!  (''I'm  a  -late  nf  indejh  lidellt 
killed, .  m  :  -!a\'iv  and  thr  -!a\«  -irad-  are  in-nperahle  oh-tarle- 
to  anv  pennan-'iier  inland  ;  -lave-  can  <  -'-ajie  -.•  ea-ily  ;  all  there 
l',,i-e  that  the  A  ral  i-  do  i-  t..  eolliet  a-  much  inonev  a-  thev  ran 
1,-.-  !ii»ik  :ind  l>v  efook,  and  th<  n  lra\e  the  r..nntrv. 

And  kind  M"kal:i"-  '-  t ronl'le- are  not  all  in  appn  hen-ion  of 
•'M-  A  ra! •-  :  h«-  Ina-l-  d  a  lai'iv  famiK  ,  nnm'Toii-  u  i\  (•-  and  ap- 
p.  ;  da_"  -,  a;  id  !i"  \  emild  li-  •  -•  ape  :r- ,11!-!.  '.'  lie  |..\i  d  to  p.  .nr 
the-e  :i!ll;ei!..n-  int"  t!i-  •  ar  i>t'thi-  -\  nipathi/in^  \\  liiti-  man  : 


U  j-,-e-  •.«.  h'i  hid  taken  |'r,  n-  h  !•  ave  i-f  him.  It  \\  a-  lm  n-e  |o 
crii  iei-.  •  le  !•">  m.ur,  '.\  i\  ••-  •  n-t'  'it  •  if't  li'  -e.  1,;.  )-  :  t  !i.  \  invanalily 
fell  l.aek  into  the  -tr,,i, •_•!,, .!d  of  \friean  lo^ie  on  that  i|iir-!ion, 
uhi'h  i-  -iimiiie.l  up  in  a  I'  'A  v.ofd-:  "  \\  h«  v.  oii!-l  <•,.., k  lor 


POT  A    MIMBA.  ;>m 

strangers  if  I  had  hut  one?  "  This  W:LS  a  poser,  csjHx-ially  see- 
ing the  antagonist  was  a  f/m-tit  himself.  Mokalao.se  was  quite  a 
gentleman  in  his  way,  ami  wa.s  proud  to  display  his  hospitality 
after  a  fashion  more  lamiliar  in  our  country  than  some  others. 
One  dav  he  invited  Dr.  Livingstone  into  his  house  and  presented 
some  beer;  ''  I  drank  a  little,"  says  the;  doctor,  "but  seeing  me 
desist  from  taking  more,  he  asked  me  if  1  wished  a  servant  girl 
to  '  jinta  miinhn;'  not  knowing  what  w:us  meant,  I  offered  the 
girl  the  calabash  of  l>eer  and  told  her  to  drink,  but  this  was  not 
the  intention.  He  asked  if  I  did  not  wish  more,  and  then  took 
the  vessel,  and  as  he  drank  the  girl  performed  the  operation  on 
himself.  Placing  herself  in  front,  she  put  both  hands  round 
his  waist  below  the  short  ribs,  and  pressing  gradually  drew  them 
round  his  Ix-lly  in  front.  lie  took  several  prolonged  draughts, 
and  at  each  she  repeated  the  operation  as  if  to  make  the  liquor 
go  equally  over  the  stomach."  It  is  possible  that  .some  of  the 
lordly  topers  of  this  land  may  feel  greatly  disturbed  that  it  should 
have  been  left  for  an  African  head  man  to  discover  this  very 
original  method  of  increasing  his  capacity — or  possibly  no  Mich 
need  is  felt  by  our  topers. 

Many  matters  are  mentioned  in  Dr.  Livingstone's  journal 
from  this  point  around  the  extremity  of  the  lake,  which  would 
t>e  of  no  special  interest  woven  into  a  narrative  of  travel,  but 
which  should  not  be  omitted  in  justice  to  the  man  who  was 
toiling  more  in  the  interest  of  positive  knowledge  than  tor  the 
entertainment  of  himself  or  others;  and  it  -eeins  well  that  we 
give  the  reader  such  extracts  from  his  journal  here  a-  may  be 
mo<t  serviceable  to  us  in  forming  a  distinct  idea  of  the-  region, 
which  is  reallv  one  of  real  importance. 

"  Xfjitcwbrr  5. — Our  march  is  aloiiLT  the  -hi>tv  to  Xiroml>o 
promontory,  which  approaches  so  near  to  Smga  or  T-eii'j;a 
opposite,  as  to  narrow  the  lake  to  some  -ixteen  or  eighteen 
miles.  It  is  a  low  san;lv  point,  the  edje  fringed  on  the  north- 
west and  part  of  the  south  with  a  belt  of  papvrus  and  reeds  ; 
the  central  parts  wooded.  Part  of  the  -<>mh  side  has  hi^h 
saudv  dunes,  blown  U]i  bv  the  south  wind,  which  strike-  it  at 
right  angles  there.  One  was  blowing  as  we  marched  alon<_ 
tfee  southern  side  eastward,  and  wa-  verv  tiresome.  We 
reached  Panthunda's  village  by  a  brook  called  Lilole.  Another 
23 


;'S2  SITKS    OF    Ol.n    VIM.ACJKS. 

we  crossed  lx>fore  coming  to  it  is  named  Lil)esa  :  these  brooks 
form  the  favorite  spawning-grounds  of  the  sanjika  and  mpasa, 
two  i)f  tin-  Ix-st  fi-he>  of  the  lake.  The  sanjika  is  verv  like 
our  herring  in  *haj>e  and  ta.-te  and  size;  the  inpasa  larger  even* 
wav  :  U.tli  live  on  given  herbage  formed  at  the  bottom  of  the 
lake  and  river-. 

"S.j,t,  //</,•/•  7.  —  Chirumbn's  village  iH'ing  on  the  south  sidr 
of  a  Ion-.:  lagoon,  we  preferred  -lecping  on  the  mainland,  though 
th'  v  offered  their  cranky  canoes  to  ferrv  us  over.  This  lagoon 
i-  called  I'ansangwa. 

"  >'-y/'  ii  J»  r  S.  —  In  i  'Mining  along  tin-  southern  side  of  Xgomlxj 
proiiiontorv  we  look  c;i>t\vard-,  l»ut  when  we  leave  it  we  turn 
southward^,  having  a  d<>uMe  run^e  of  loftv  mountains:  on  our 
left.  The-e  are  granitie  m  i!>r;n,  th'-  nearer  ran^e  being  gener- 
al lv  the  lowe-t,  and  envi-i-'-d  with  -i-r;i_r_'\-  tree-;  the  second,  or 
more  i-a-terlv,  i-  -om.-  -i\  thoiisind  li-<  :  :i!io\-c  the  <ca,  bare  and 
m^ed.  with  ja^^i'd  |>--al<-  -hooting  hi-h  i:ito  the  air.  This  is 
j>robablv  tlii-  iH-we^t  rairj-'.  The  o!(l.-»:  jx-ojilc  have  felt  no 
earthquake,  bat  .-ome  -ay  that  th«-y  li.i\''  heard  of  -iii-h  things 
from  their  elders. 

'•  \\'e  j»a--'-'l  verv  nianv  -ite<  of  old  village-,  whieh  are  ea-ilv 
kno\vn  bv  the  tree  euphorbia  planted  round  an  umU-lliferons 
one.  and  the  sabred  \\^.  (  >ne  -p-  •<•!»-  her.'  tin-o\\-  out  strong 
buttrcs.S4S  in  the  manner  of  -Mine  man^i'oV'--  in-tead  "t  -ending 
down  twiner-  whieh  take  rout,  a-  i-  n-nally  the  ea-e  with  the 
tropical  fi_'.  '1  he-c,  \rith  mill-tone^  —  (MIL-  for  holding  the 


tuni'-d    into   brick    bv  tin-  in    th<-  ile-tniejii»n  of    the   hilts,  -how 
u  hat   were  once  the  '  pica  -ant   haunt-  "I    lacn.' 

"  >'.y,''  nJ»  r  1<>.  --In  man-hill^;  -oir!r\  .ird-  we  came  c]o-e  to 
the  ran_'.-  the  lake  ]!,-,  irntuetlialelv  on  tiic  oilier  -ide  of  it', 
bo.t  We  eollld  Hot  note  thr  hav-  which  it  IOIMII-;  \\  <•  cro--e<l  t  \V«I 
r.ii'iintain  toi-p-nt-  Ironi  -i\tv  to  ei-htv  vard-  broad,  and  now 
'j:iiv  ankle  deep.  In  t!  .....  1  the-c  biin^  tlou  n  enonnou-  trei's, 
•.•,  h;i  !i  are  much  bait*  I'd)  and  brtll-ed  a;n»M;_'  the  roi-k-  in  their 
i  •  .'ir-'-  ;  th'  A  -pn-ad  ovr  tip-  plain,  too,  and  \>,  .,n!d  render  travel- 
ling In-re  in  tie-  r:i:n-  im  j«ra<  I  :•  al  •!••.  At'icr  -|M-ndin^  tin-  night 


i.'!ii-r    o}'    tip-'-    ton-cut-:    '.i.!i    \.-rv    luttv    ma--     in    the    ran  go 


TWEXTY-FOrU    BROOKH.  3K] 

seemed  to  give  rise  to  one.  Nothing  of  interest  occurred  ;ts  \ve 
trudged  along.  A  very  j>oor  head  man,  Panmwawa,  presented 
a  roll  of  salt  instead  of  food  :  this  was  grateful  to  us,  as  we 
have  been  without  that  luxury  Home  time. 

" .sVy*f<W«v  13. — We  crossed  a  strong  brook  called  Xkore. 
Mv  object  in  mentioning  the  brooks  which  were  flowing  at 
this  time,  and  near  the  end  of  the  dry  season,  is  to  give  an 
idea  of  the  sources  of  supply  of  evaporation.  The  men  enu- 
merate the  following,  north  of  the  Misinje.  Those  which  are 
greater  are  marked  thus  4-,  and  the  lesser  ones  — , 

1.  Misinje  +  has  canoes. 

2.  Ijoangwa  — 

3.  Ivesefa  — 

4.  Lelula  - 

5.  Nchamanje  — 

6.  Musumba  -f 

7.  Fubwe  + 

8.  ('hia  - 

0.   Kisanga  4- 

10.  Bweka- 

11.  Chifumero  4-  has  canoes. 

12.  Loangwa  — 

13.  Mkoho  - 

14.  Mangwelo  —  at  X.  end  of  lake. 

"Including  the  above  there  are  twenty  or  twenty-four  peren- 
nial brooks  and  torrents  which  give  a  good  supply  of  water  in 
the  dry  season  ;  in  the  wet  season  thev  are  supplemented  bv  a 
number  of  burns,  which,  though  flowing  now,  have  their  mouths 
blocked  up  with  bars  of  sand,  and  yield  nothing  except  by  per- 
colation ;  the  lake  rises  at  least  tour  feet  perpendicularly  in  the 
wet  season,  and  has  enough  during  the  vear  from  these  j>eren- 
nial  brooks  to  supply  the  Shire's  continual  flow/' 

[It  will  be  remembered  that  the  beautiful  river  Shin1  earrie* 
off  the  waters  of  Lake  Xyussa  and  joins  the  /am hoi  near 
Mount  Morambala,  about  ninety  miles  from  the  sea.  It  is  by 
this  water-way  that  Livingstone  always  hoped  to  find  an  easy 
access  to  Central  Africa.  We  will  not  forget  the  obstacles  which 


3X-J  I'AINKfL    UEFI.WTIOXS. 

forced  him  to  nt-k  another  path.  lie  could  not  suppress  hi- 
sorrow  when  he  looked  a\vav  toward  the  region  watered  !>v  that 
riviT  and  thought  «m  tin-  di-ap|>ointments  c.\|>erien<vd  there. 
Manv  hopes  had  UH-II  wrwkttl  there.  It  was  an  inexpressible* 

£fliti'_r  of'  loin-lino-*  came  over  him  when  h<-  thought  on  the 
jjr.ivc  of  hi-r  who-e  death  had  changed  all  his  pn>-pec;- —  far 
awav  down  on  the  ri^ht  hank  of  the  river  under  the  -had.'W  of 
the  -jreat  baohah  tree;  and  the  hitter  regret  with  which  he  re- 
called the  ea-y  death  of  the  nohle  ]>i-hop  Maeken/.ie,  and  the 
abandonment  of  the  mission  enterprise.  It  docs  -eem  sad  that 
he  should  have  heen  called  away  just  when  hi-  arduous  toil- 
were  ..n  the  eve  of  their  lx-t  fruits;  how  gladly  w»nld  he  wel- 
come if  he  was  alive  now  the  news  that  arrangement-  are  defi- 
nitelv  made  tor  planting  strong  and  permanent  missions  along 
the  Shir.-!] 

"  Si  jit  >  tutu  r  1  •"). — Wo  were  now  a  short  di-tan.v  -.nth  of  the 
lake,  and  mi<:ht  have  pme  we-t  to  Mo-aiika'-  '.-ailed  li\-  -unit' 
!>a.-:inknV)  to  er»^s  the  Shire  there,  hut  I  thought  that  niv  \l-it 
to  Mnkate's,  ;l  Waiyau  ehi.-f  -till  farther  -..nth.  ni:_'ht  do  «_;<.  .d. 
He,  Mixitida,  ami  Kahiii'ja,  are  the  onlv  thr.-e  chief-  u  ho  -i\\\ 
carrv  on  raid-  a_'ain-t  the  Man^'iiija  at  the  m-t  i^vit  i"ii  ot  the 
coa-t  . \rah-,  and  tlirv  are  n»w  -<-ndi!r_r  periodical  marauding 
par:i>-  !••  the  Maravi  >  h>  r>-  nam-'d  Malola1  t"  -upplv  the  Kil\\a 
-!:iV'--trader-.  \\'<-  niai'died  three  hour-  -<mt  h\\  ai  •<!-.  then  up 
th<'  hill- "f  the  raii'je  whi.-h  flank-  all  the  IM\V«T  part  of  the  lake. 
The  a'.'inid'-  »('  tin-  town  i-  ali.nit  ei_di!  hundred  f.-«-t  ahov.-  the 
lak.  .  'I  !i>-  p-.pulat  ion  near  the  chief  is  larje.  and  all  the  heijht- 
;L-  tin-  a-  lh«- eve  .-an  rea- h  an-  cro-.vneil  with  village-.  Tin- 
-••»:id  rairje  lie-  a  f -\v  mi!---  "•!!',  and  i-  i-.ivtvd  \\ilh  tree-  a- 
v. .-'!  a-  ih-  lir-t  ;  the  neare-t  hi_di  ma--  i-  Man^ochi-.  I  In-  people 
live  ami d-t  pl'iitv.  All  the  chief,  vi-ited  hv  the  Aral.-  have 

;: 1   -ii'.-'.Mi!  ial     -ijiiar-'    li"'i->--     1'iiilt     (M;-   1 1 1.  -i  r  :c  <  -.  .in  i  i  |..d.  1 1  ;•  •!! . 

Mn!  a1'-  n.'V-r  -a\\    a    Mur-'p'-an  l"-f'fe,  and  <  -.  -  r\  I  hi ::_'  al».ui   n- 
i-  an   i:  iiu>  n-e  <-uri.--i!v  i"  him  and  !»  hi-  |"  "p!«  .       ^^  e  had  I-.n^ 
vi-it-    '.''."in   him.       He    tri-'-    I"    i-\fra<-t   a  lau-.di  -.'if    --I    i-Vi-ry   P- 
lu-ifk.        II-     i-    dark. -r    ihri     lli.-    -.-n.-ra!ii\     of    \\'.-iivati.    \\ith 
.1     full     1-ard     'rained    »n     th>-    ehin    -a-    all     the     p,  ,.p!e     her-- 
ftl.oiit-    h:i\.        Aral,    fa-hi'.n.       The   ei.iiri-    of    hi-    \\.iinen    cover 
(''ir    lion-.-    l«.  1:1^'    ..n    one   -id.-    "I    them.       I     tri'-d 


"GOD  TOOK  HIM."  38.5 

to  go  out  that  way,  but  wandered,  so  the  ladies  sent  a  ser- 
vant to  conduct  me  out  in  the  direction  I  wished  to  go,  and 
we  found  egress  by  passing  through  >ome  huts  with  two  doors 
in  them. 

"  Xfjtti  i\J»-r  17. — We  inarched  down  from  Mukate's  and  to 
about  the  middle  of  the  Lakelet  i'ainaloinbc.  Mukate  had  no 
people  with  canoes  near  the  usual  crossing  place,  and  he  sent  a 
messenger  to  sec  that  we  were  fairly  served.  Here  we  got  the 
Manganja  head  men  to  confess  that  an  earthquake  had  happened; 
all  the  others  we  have  inquired  of  have  denied  it ;  why,  I  cannot 
conceive.  The  old  men  said  that  they  had  felt  earthquakes 
twice,  once  near  sunset  and  the  next  time  at  night — they  shook 
evervthing,  and  were  accompanied  with  noise,  and  all  the  fowls 
'.'ackled  ;  there  was  no  effect  on  the  lake  observed.  They  profess 
ignorance  of  any  tradition  of  the  water  having  stood  higher. 
Their  traditions  sav  that  they  came  originally  from  the  west,  or 
west-northwest,  which  they  call  '  Maravi  ; '  and  that  their  fore- 
fathers taught  them  to  make  nets  and  kill  fish.  They  have  no 
tract?  of  any  teaching  by  a  higher  instructor;  no  carvings  or 
writings  on  the  rocks;  and  they  never  heard  of  a  book  until  we 
came  among  them.  Their  forefathers  never  told  them  that  after 
or  at  death  they  went  to  Clod,  but  they  had  heard  it  said  of  such 
a  one  who  died,  'God  took  him.' 

From  the  village  of  Mukate  Livingstone  was  provided  with 
a  number  of  canoes  in  which  lie  and  his  company  parsed  up  to 
the  point  of  junction  between  the  Lakelet  Pamalombe  and  Lake 
Nyassa  ;  but  the  people  were  very  timid,  and  he  was  under  the 
necessity  of  going  on  to  Mponda's,  which  lies  just  south  of 
Xya&Mi.' 

In  coming  from  the  coast  to  the  lake  Livingstone  had  con- 
siderable trouble  in  conversing  with  the  natives.  All  along 
that  route  the  "NVaiyau  language  prevails — a  language  confes- 
sedly hard  to  master.  It  was  a  great  relief  amoiiLT  the  tribes 
about  this  lake  to  observe  a  striking  similarity  of  the  language 
to  that  iu  use  along  the  /umboi  and  the  Shire.  Thev  were 
again  surrounded  bv  those  ferocious  bca>ts  which  are  so  inti- 
mately associated  with  African  travel  in  the  mind  of  alnio-t 
everv  render.  The  first  dav  of  their  >tav  at  Mponda's  town  a 
woman  was  carried  olf  by  a  lion,  and  almost  entirely  eaten 


H.Sf>  WIKATANI    FINIXS    KKLATIVES. 

before  being  discovered.  The  fatigues  of  travel  were  a  fleeting 
very  seriously  the  di-|H>.-ition-  of  liis  followers  ;  they  were  lx>- 
coniing  m«>re  ami  more  dissatisfied,  ami  harassing  the  doctor 
sadly  enough.  Heforc  reaching  MjHinda's  village  he  had  lost 
one  of  tin-  coiupanv  wlioin  lit-  oteemed  verv  highly.  Wika- 
Lani  ha«l  Ix-ni  a  favorite  with  l>i.-hop  Maekenzie;  he  had 
been  liberated  trotn  bondage  into  which  his  friends  had 
>old  him ;  he  found  some  relatives  in  the  neighborhood. 
Concerning  the  incident  I)r.  Livingstone  wrote  alxmt  that  time 
a-»  follows  : 

"  He  met  with  a  brother,  and  found  that  lit-  had  two  brothers 
and  one  «>r  two  -i.-ter-  living  down  at  the  western  shore  of  Lake 
Pameloinlx!  under  Kahinga.  lie  thought  that  his  relatives 
would  not  again  M-ll  him.  I  had  a-kcd  him  if  he  wished  to  re- 
main, and  he  at  once  -aid  l  Ye.-,'  .-o  I  did  not  attempt  to  dissuade 
him  :  his  e.\e«-»ive.  levitv  will  j>erhaj>-  be  eooleil  by  marriage. 
I  think  he  mav  do  j^oinl  by  telling  M»me  of  what  he  ha>  seen 
and  heard.  I  a-ked  him  if  he  would  O!M-V  an  order  from  hi.i 
ehii'f  to  hunt  the  Manganja,  ami  he  .siid,  '  No.'  I  liojK'  he 
won't.  In  the  event  of  auv  mi.-.-ion  coining  into  the  country 
of  Maluku,  he  will  go  there.  I  gave  him  paper  to  write  to  you, 
and,  commending  him  to  the  chiefs,  bade  the  poor  IM>V  Ian-well. 
I  \\.i-.  -orrv  to  part  with  him,  but  the  Aral/-  tell  the  \Vaiyan 
chief-  that  our  object  in  lilxTiting  slave-  i-  to  maki-  them  our 
own  and  turn  them  to  our  religion.  1  had  declared  to  them, 
through  Wikatani  a-  interpreter,  that  they  never  Ix-eame  our 
-lave-,  and  were  at  libertv  to  ^»  \w\<.  to  their  relatives  if  tliev 
lik'-d  ;  and  ii"\s  it  \vn-  inipo--ilile  to  olij«-et  to  \\  ikatani  going 
without  -tult if\  nr_r  niv  o'vn  -tateiucnts. 

I'M -fore  reaching  M|mnda's  I  >r.  Living-tone  mentions  having 
v  ii  -everal  humln-d  people  making  -alt  on  a  plain  impregnated 
with  it.  Thev  elixate  the  -nil  and  filter  it  through  a  bum  h  of' 
^r:i--  in  a  !i"!e  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot  until  all  i-  eva]M>r.ite<!. 
SIM  ;iK  ;  114  of  t  lie  •  mi  tit  rv  Livingstone  .-av-  : 

"  \\'e  li.-M  alon/  the  plain  till  \\ e  came   to    Mponda's,  a  largv. 
villa;."',  \\iili  :»  -'I'.im    running    |».i-t.      The    plain  at   the  vi'lhig*. 
i-  verv  tiriile,  an<l    li:i-    m:»nv   lar^"-    tre<-    on    it.      The  cattle   of 
Mponda  ai<-  like  t'.ilt.-d    .Maila'_'a-car  bea-t-,  and  tin-  hump  -ceiih 
a-  ;!'  it  would  U'-;^h  on--  hundreil  pound*-      '1  he  -i/e  ,,f  Kndy  i.- 


EIGHTY-FIVE   SLAV  US    IN    A    I'KN.  ;>;, 

so  enormous  that  (heir  legs,  :us  remarked  by  our  men,  seemed 
very  small.  M|K>nda  is  a  blustering  sort  of  person,  but  im- 
menselv  interested  in  everything  Euro|>ean.  1I<-  says  that  he 
would  like  to  go  with  inc.  '  Would  not  care  though  he  \v« TC 
away  ten  years.'  I  say  that  he  may  die  in  the  journey.  '  I  If 
will  die  here  as  well  as  there,  hut  he  will  see  all  the  won- 
derful doings  of  our  country.'  He  knew  me,  having  conn- 
to  the  boat,  to  take  a  look  incfjynito  when  we  were  here  for- 
merly." 

In  this  town  Livingstone  found  an  Aral)  slave-party,  and 
went  to  look  at  the  slaves;  seeing  this,  Mponda  was  alarmed 
lest  he  should  proceed  to  violence  in  his  town,  Imt  he  >aid  to 
him  that  he  went  to  look  only.  Eighty-five  .-laves  were  in  a 
pen  formed  of' dura  stalks  (Ifohux  tsorr/hitiii).  The  majority 
were  hoys  of  about  eight  or  ten  years  of  age;  others  were  grown 
men  and  women.  Nearly  all  were  in  the  tain  ing-stick  ;  a  few 
of  the  younger  ones  were  in  thongs,  the  thong  passing  round  the 
neck  of  each.  Several  pots  were  on  the  fires  cooking  dura  and 
beans.  A  crowd  went  with  him,  expecting  a  scene,  but  Living- 
stone sat  down,  and  asked  a  few  (juestions  about  the  journey,  in 
front.  The  slave-party  consisted  of  five  or  six  half-ca-te  coa.-t 
Arabs,  who  said  that  they  came  from  Zanzibar;  but  the  crowd 
made  such  a  noise  that  nothing  could  be  heard.  Livingstone 
asked  if  they  had  any  objections  to  his  looking  at  the  slave.- ; 
the  owners  pointed  out  the  diilerent  -lave-,  and  said  that  after 
feeding  them,  and  accounting  for  the  losses  in  the  wav  to  the 
coast,  they  made  little  bv  the  trip.  "  I  suspect/'  >av-  the 
doctor,  "  that  the  ^aiii  is  made  bv  those  who  -hip  them  to  tin- 
ports  of  Arabia,  for  at  Zanzibar  most  of  tin-  vounger  .-laves  we 
saw  went  at  about  seven  dollars  a  head.  I  .-aid  to  them  it  wa- 
a  bad  business  altogether.  Tln-v  presented  fowls  to  me  in  the 
evening.'' 

The  next  day  the  chief  begged  -o  hard  that  the  doctor  would 
stav  another  dav  and  ^ive  medicine  to  a  .-i«-k  child  that  he  con- 
sented. He  promised  plenty  of  food,  and,  as  an  eann-.-t  of  lu- 
sineerity,  sent  an  immense  pot  of'  hr.>r  in  the  evening.  Th" 
child  had  been  benefited  by  the  medicine,  and  in  his  gratitude 
the  poor  man  gave  more  than  could  be  taken. 

One  very   pleasant    feature  of  this   country  was.   the   interest 


•jno 


WORK    .WOUNTKD    HONORABLE. 


which  all  classes  took  in  agricultural  work.  It  did  not  seem  to 
be  held  t«>  I*-  a  xTvilr  work  ;is  in  many  cither  parts  of  the  coun- 
try. While  the  >l:i\.-s  do  the  greater  part  of  the  work,  the 
hijjhot  <-ht^-M->  consider  it  verv  honorable  to  IM>  so  employed. 
The  Man'janju  ono-  had  ^n-at  (jnant it ies  of  first-class  cattle,  but 
the  Waiau  had  taken  xistifettiou  of  them. 


'/£*&*  j-r  /kWc 

\*  .  .     x» 


CHAPTER    XXII. 

A IM)UT    NYASSA. 

(ii-nliii'inil   Notes — The  Mareni;:i  -  Livingstone  Preaching — Small-Pox— Inveter- 
ate Thieves — Kirk's  Ilaiitfe— taw  Token— Hlui-k-lwircd  Sheep— Karthquakea 

—  A  Toper  Chief- A  Royal    F>eort  —  Whooping  'out-h  —  The  Hotte-i  Month- 
Methods  of  Fertilization  — No  Animals — Hows  and  Arrows — Lip-Kin:;  —  A  1'ro- 
phetic    Cow  —  Iron    Works— Village   of  Smiths — Alarm    of   Ma/.ilu -- Native 
Furnaees — Livingstone's  Patienee  —  A  Disagreeable  Head  Man  --Level  Country 

—  Portuguese   Travellers — A    Herd   of   IJullaloes — Industry  —  Wild    Fi^s — A 
Formidable   Stockade — Trying  News — A  Steady  Faith. 

ON  tho  21st  of  September,  18WJ,  Livingstone  marched  to- 
wards the  west,  crossing  ('ape  Maelear.  Thev  crossed  hills 
about  seven  hundred  feet  above  Xyassa  ;  these  were  covered  with 
trees  and  quite  desolate — n<>  inhabitants  to  be  seen.  They  en- 
camped near  the  Sikoche.  Here  the  rocks  were  hardened  sand- 
stone, resting  on  mica-schist,  which  had  an  efflorescence  of  alum 
on  it  ;  above  this  was  dolomite;  the  hills  were  often  capped  with 
it  and  oak-spar,  giving  a  snowv  appearance.  After  seven  hours 
of  hard  travel  thev  arrived  at  a  village  where  they  spent  the 
Sabbath  bv  the  l/sangasi,  and  near  a  remarkable  mountain, 
Xamasi.  This  tribe,  or  rather  the  Machinga,  now  supersede 
the  Manganja.  lie  speaks  of  a  marked  difference  in  th*' villager! 
of  the  latter  and  the  Waivan,  who  have  handsome  straw  and 
reed  tenets  around  their  lint-,  making  their  villages  lnok  much 
neater.  They  next  stopped  at  a  village  of  Marcnga,  ipiite  a 
laru'e  one,  at  the  bottom  of  the  lake  on  the  eastern  >ide.  Find- 
ing  the  chief  (jiiite  ill  and  having  a  loathsome'  di.-ca.-c  it  wa.s 
impossible  tor  him  to  come  to  Livingstone.  Many  of  the  people 
had  ii'one  to  tht1  coast  as  traders,  and  returning  with  arm.-  and 
ammunition  helped  the  Waivan  in  their  foravs  on  the  Manuanja, 
and  tinally  set  themselves  up  as  an  independent  tribe.  Thev 
cultivate  largely,  and  have  cattle,  but  do  not  milk  them.  The 
sponges  here,  which  are  formed  bv  the  vegetation,  "  which  i-  not 
healthv  and  tails  and  rots  and  then  forms  thick  loam  of  a  blackish 


o(.»-J  SMAI.I.-POX    SKKN. 

nature,  is  in  ma-s.es  two  or  three  feet,  rests  on  a  bed  of  pure 
river  -and.  In  tin-  dry  -.-a-on  tin-  loam  is  cracked,  ami  fre- 
quently in  a-  mueh  a.-  three  inehe-  in  width  ami  verv  deep. 
'1  *ht*  whole  -urfaee  i-  no\v  fallen  dou  n  ami  re>(-  on  the  sand, 
but  when  tin-  rain  eonie-  the  lir-t  supply  i>  nearlv  all  ah-orhol 
in  the  -and.  Tin-  Murk  loam  forms  .-oft  .-lush  and  float-  on  the 
Kind.  Tin-  narrow  ojn-nin^  prevent.-  it  from  moving  otV  in  a 
land-slip,  but  an  o.i/in^  -prin^  ri-e-  at  that  >pot.  All  the  pool- 
in  the  lower  portion  of  (hi-  -prin^-ronr-e  are  filled  bv  the  fir.-t 
rain-  ;  which  happen  -oiith  of'  the  equator  when  the  -tin  ^o.--; 
vertie;ill\  over  anv  -pot.  The  -reond  or  greater  ruins  happen 
in  hi-  eonr-<'  north  a^uin,  when  all  the  Ixt^s  or  rivcr-cimives 
IH-UI^  wet,  the  supply  run-  off  and  forms  the  inundation  ;  thi- 
\V;L-  eertainlv  the  ea-e  a-  ob-«-r\vd  on  llu-  Zambe-i  and  Shire, 
and  taking  th«'  diflerent  tini'-  for  the  -mi's  pa>sui;e  north  of' the 
equator  it  explain-  the  inundation  of.  tin-  \if> ." 

The  petplrut  the  town  o!' Man-n^u,  on  Lake  \\-a--a,  ^atheivd 
uronnd  Li\ 'in^-toiif  in  ^r<-;it  uuiuber>  to  4.1/1-  a;  him.  Hi-  took 
the  op]Mirtnn:tv  to  point  tlu-m  to  t!i-'  Lamb  of  <  iod  and  -pruk 
of  llii-ir  -oiil-,  to  'Aliirli  thrv  replied.  "()nr  talhir-  ha\c  n«-vi-r 
told  n-  alight  about  tli--  -on!  ;  wi-  thought  th'-  \\holc  man  i-ottt-d 
ami  i-anif  to  nothing:"  but  tln-v  li-ti-in-d  i|iiit«-  attentively, 
• -pft-ia '.!•.•  \\inn  in-  told  them  that  onr  l''ath'i-  lc»v(i|  th'-m  ami 
lieard  tii'  ;;•  pravi-r-.  HI-  found  tlii-  village  afllirted  with  -mall- 
pox,  a  di-i -a-e  \\iii'  ii  \\a-  «piitf  extraordinurv  in  Atri«-a.  and  hi- 
-ki!l  wa.-  ^rt-atlv  -on-hl  l»v  tin-  -titl'.T.  i'-. 

<  )n  ill--  'J'ilii  of  S'ptember  Livin^-tmir  wa-  met  bv  an  Arab 
\\lio  told  M'i-a  that  the  uhole  emintrv  \\a-  filled  \\ith  Ma/itn  ; 
ilia:  forty  Arab-  and  their  fbllower-  hail  been  killed  !.y  tli-m 
a!  l\.i-:injn  and  he  aloiii-  e-i-ipid.  Mn-a  and  all  the  .Johanna 
iii'  ;t  iio-.\  d'-eland  lliev  Mould  '_;o  n«  farther.  Living-tone 
earrieil  iiiin  to  ManMiu  i  and  a-k'«l  him  a!m:r  the  Ma/itll.  II" 

i-.Mtlalii1  '1    1>\'   -a\  in •'  the  "A t'ali-  and    ammunition   weiv  broil  'lit 
i  . 

into  I  he  .  onntrv  annual Iv,  and  t  he  Maiijjanja  r-  -i-t<  d  .1  nmbe  and 

'.'.'. u!l    a!!o-,\     II'.    111"!'''    to    <-'i!ll'         -b-eail-e    tin  A     \\i-fe    til'-    -Hill-re!'-. 

\\  hi  :i     Li,  i!i.;-N.!i'-    »tart«i|  MM   In-    |o'irii'->   th--    •folianna  in-'ii 

u.ilk'.l     "'I',    i'.i.iii^     t!i"     - U     on     the     L-|-,,iind  ;     In-    '.\.i-    n-'t 

"i.rrv,  ho\ve\ir.  a-  th'-,  \\.r--  -IP  h  m\eterate  thn'\-i--,  t!ie\' 
c«.i|.il  MO'  !>••  tlll>!'d.  I  Iii-  -''.ililr^  t""  \\a-  not  |n.:n  et].  e( 


A    LOVE   TOKEN.  ;>«,;; 

of  hunger;  when  there  was  plenty  they  stole  more,  Mu.-a 
shared  the  dainties  stolen  by  his  men;  he  would  reply  when 
Livingstone  would  sjK'uk  to  him  about  it,  "  Me  tell  them 
every  day  no  man  steal  doctor's*  things."  At  one  time  one  man 
stole  fifteen  |M»unds  of  fine  j»o\vder,  another  seven,  another  left 
six  tablecloths  out  of  twenty-four,  another  eallcd  out  to  a  man 
to  bring  a  fish  and  he  would  buy  it  with  l>eads.  Musa  knew  it 
all  and  connived  at  it,  but  terror  drove  him  away  at  last. 

They  arrival  at  Kimsusu's,  below  Mount  Mulundini  of  Kirk's 
range  (name<l  after  Dr.  Kirk,  who  with  Dr.  Livingstone  and 
Mr.  Charles  Livingstone  discovered  I^ike  Nyassa).  The  chief 
being  absent,  was  sent  for.  Another  Arab  passed  with  a  similar 
tale  of  Ma/itu,  and  stating  his  slaves  were  all  taken.  Jt  is  con- 
sidered more  respectable  to  be  robbed  by  Ma/itu  than  by  Man- 
ganja,  who  are  considered  nobodies.  On  the  .'30th  of  this  month, 
being  Sabbath,  it  was  spent  here,  and  Kimsusa's  entertainment 
was  cordiality  and  beer,  but  the  latter  was  not  accepted  by  the 
doctor. 

"The  chief  came  quickly,  and,"  says  Livingstone,  ''seemed 
glad  to  see  his  old  friend  ;  sent  olf  at  once  and  had  a  huge 
ram  brought,  which  had  either  killed  or  seriously  injured 
a  man.  The  animal  came  tied  to  a  pole  t<>  keep  him  on"  the 
man  who  held  it,  while  a  lot  more  carried  him.  He  w:is  pro- 
digiouslv  fat.  This  is  a  true  African  way  of  showing  love — 
plenty  of  food.  Be-ides  the  ram,  the  chief  brought  a  huge 
basket  of  '  pombe,'  the  native  beer,  and  another  of  *  usima,'  or 
porridge,  and  a  pot  of  cooked  meat."  Thev  had  so  much,  how- 
ever, that  it  was  impossible  to  carry  what  was  given.  The  sheep 
are  of  the  black-haired  kind  ;  their  tails  grow  very  large.  A 
rain  given  bv  a  iVaivau  chief  previously  hud  a  tail  which 
weighed  eleven  pounds;  but  lor  the  journey  doubtless  an  addi- 
tional two  or  three  pounds  would  have  been  on  it.  Kim-u.-;i 
said  that  earthquakes  were  felt  where  Mpanda  now  live.-*, 
but  none  where  lie  i<.  lie  seemed  changed,  especial Iv  .-eeined 
more  rational  about  the  IVitv,  and  said  it  wa^  owini;  to  the 
advice  received  from  the  doctor  that  his  village  was  larger 
and  not  from  selling  his  people.  On  the  l2d  and  .'»d  the  chief 
carried  him  oil"  to  a  dense  thicket  and  under  loftv  tree-;,  i<>  u 
shady  »pot  as  the  one  in  which  bu.-iness  is  transacted  ;  but  lie 


31»4  A    KOYAL    ES(X)RT. 

drank  I  >eer  incessantly,  in  con-^pienev  of  which  lie  became  ex- 
tremely loquacious.  Livingstone  reproved  him  for  his  loquacity, 
and  said  that  morning  was  thr  time  if  business  was  to  In.'  done, 
proj>osing  to  send  some  of  his  men  to  the  Habisu  count rv  aiui 
h<-  would  pav  them  there  where  thev  could  purchase  ivorv,  and 
when  they  brought  it  back  In- could  buy  clothing  without  selling 
his  jH-ople.  The  chief  refu-i-d,  saving  that  his  |>cople  could  not 
U-  trusted,  and  that  he  would  buy  ivory  from  the  Arabs  or 
Rabi-a,  who  would  conduct  his  business  honestly.  Finally  the 
chief  consented  to  give  the  doctor  curriers  to  go  to  the  Marahi, 
but  wished  to  IK'  paid  first.  Livingstone  consented  to  this,  but 
he  (the  chief )  could  not  prevail  on  anv  one  to  go.  There  w;is 
a  Mobisa  man  in  an  adjoining  village  who  was  going  to  his  own 
country,  and  as  the  chief  thought  his  men  would  run  at  the 
fir-t  apj>earance  of  danger  it  wa-  divided  to  ^o  with  the  Mobisa. 
I>r.  Livingstone  found  him  so  verv  ignorant,  not  knowing  even 
the  chief  town  of  hi-  c<>imtrv  or  any  of  the  rivers,  that  he  would 
ii"t  have  him  a.-  a  guide. 

Kitnstisa  came  the  next  dav  earlv  with  a  lar^e  basket  of  beer 
and  found  our  friend-  readv  t»  -tart,  but  not  relishing  thi-  nmch, 
In-  declared  he  would  force  hi.-  men  to  jfo  or  he  and  hi-  wives 
would  go  a-  carrier- — begged  them  to  remain.  (  Molx-r  b'th 
finds  our  friends  about  seven  mile-  north,  at  a  village  opposite 
the  I'a-s  Tapiri.  and  on  a  rivulet,  (loded/a.  Kim-ii-a  behaved 
like  a  king,  and  hi-  wives  carried  the  load-  strapped  ;  one  carried 
bei-r.  another  meal.  A-  soon  a-  tln-v  got  there,  cooking  com- 
nit  in  cd.  Tliev  make  a  preparation  of  meal  calhtl  "  toku,"  \\  hieh 
tli.-  dcx-tor  liked  verv  much,  and  thev  s«ving  he  likrd  it  made  a 
i  alaba-hf'iil  in  the  evening;  hr  think-  he  would  have  gotten 
tat  it  IP-  could  have  taken  the  beer,  but  it  n-ijinred  a  strong 
digestion  ;  a  lit  tic  fl«--h  i-  neee--arv  to  relieve  the  acitlity  it  eaijMil, 
but  tin-  i-  ki'pt  verv  carefullv  and  dried  on  a  stagi-  befurc  a 
tiri'  to  prevent  putriditv. 

Livingstone  -|nik<'  <«f  having  Iniinl  wlnHiping-c<nigh  in  tln< 
villa^i-;  a-  tlii-  ili-<'.-i-c  ha-  not  ln-fnrr  In  i  n  re|Mirt«il  an  African 
on'-,  it  i-  u  "M  h  notic'-.  He  t<  'i  i  in  I  t  he  \\  aivau  vi-itor-  <|iiitc  im- 
pildent,  fni'i  -in_'  t  li<  -in-'  -lv>  -  into  h:-  hut  nnin\  ilc<l,  demanded 
fin  or  •j-ini'-  iiH-ilieini-,  aecording  t"  a  practici-  the  Arab-  had 
in-f  itllti-d  to  dnvi  a  trad'.  A-  l^lVing-tone  lieared  the  I'ILVM 
lapiri,  Kim-u-a  and  ln~  m>-n  determined  to  go. 


KNIFK    AND    A-SAOAl    IfKAIM. 


j 


BECHUAXA    KNIVES, 


39.1 


ORNAMKNTS    MAPE 
OF    MONKEYS     TF.KTH. 


POPUI.AI;  iM 

On  the  8th  of  October  tlicy  got  to  the  first  village,  ami  here 
the  wives  were  paid  for  carrying  his  tiling;  the  ehief  offering 
beer  and  tol;n,  and  the  latter  was  aeeepted  hy  the  doctor.  They 
sang  and  clapped  their  hands  until  one  o'clock  in  the  morninir. 
October  5'th  fonnd  them  lour  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  This 
is  the  hottest  month,  Imt  the  air  is  clear  and  pleasant.  The 
count rv  is  verv  fine,  Iving  in  long  slopes,  with  mountains  rising 
all  around,  from  two  t.>  three  thousand  feet  above  this  upland. 
They  arc  mostlv  jagged  and  rough  (not  rounded  like  those  near 
to  Mataka's)  :  the  long  slopes  are  nearlv  denuded  of  trees,  and  the 
patches  of  cultivation  arc  so  large  and  often  squarish  in  form 
that  but  little  imagination  is  requisite  to  transform  the  whole 
into  the  cultivated  fields  of  England  ;  but  no  hedgerows  exi.-t. 
The  trees  are  in  clumps  on  the  tops  of  the  ridges,  or  at  the 
villages,  or  a",  the  places  of  sepulture.-  Just  now  the  young  leaves 
are  out,  but  are  not  yet  green.  In  some  lights  they  look  brown, 
but  with  transmitted  light,  or  when  one  is  near  them,  crimson 
prevails.  A  yellowish-green  is  met  sometimes  in  the  young 
leaves,  and  brown,  pink,  and  orange-red.  The  soil  is  rich,  but 
the  <Ta-3  is  onlv  excessivelv  rank  in  spots  ;  in  general  it  is  short. 

»  *  1 

A  kind  of  trenching  of  the  ground  is  resorted  to;  they  hoe  deep, 
and  draw  it  well  to  themselves:  this  exposes  the  other  earth  to 
the  hoe.  The  soil  is  burned  too:  the  grass  and  weeds  are  pi  ami 
in  flat  heaps,  and  soil  placed  over  them  :  the  burning  is  slow, 
and  most  of  the  products  of  combustion  are  retained  to  fatten 
the  field  ;  in  this  wav  the  people  rai-e  lar^e  crops.  Men  and 
women  and  children  engage  in  field  labor,  but  at  present  many 
of  the  men  are  engaged  in  spinning  bua/e  and  cotton.  The 
iormer  is  made  into  a  coarse  sacking-looking  stuff,  immenselv 
-tr<>!i:r,  which  seem-  to  be  worn  bv  the  women  alone;  the  men 
are  clad  in  uncomfortable  goatskins.  \o  wild  animals  seem  to 
be  in  the  country,  and  indeed  the  population  is  so  lar^e  thev 
would  have  very  unsettled  times  of  it.  At  every  turning  they 
meet  people,  or  see  their  villages;  all  armed  with  bows  and 
arrow-.  The  bows  are  unusually  long  :  Livingstone  measured 
one  made  of  bamboo  and  found  that  alon<_r  the  bowstring  it 
measured  six  feet  four  inches.  Many  carrv  large  knives  (.f  tine 
iron  :  and  indeed  the  metal  is  abundant.  YOIIIILT  nien  and  women 
wear  the  hair  lontj ;  a  mass  of -mall  ringlets  corner  down  and 


398  OH. D    WKATIIKR. 

rests  mi  tin-  shoulders,  giving  them  the  appcnramv  of  the  ancient 
Kiryptian-.  <  >ne  -ide  i-  ofti  i)  euhivated,  anil  the  ma-~>  hangs 
jauntily  mi  that  .-id-  ;  .-<>inc  K  w  have  a  .-olid  t~ap  of  it.  Not 
inanv  women  wear  tin-  lip-ring:  the  example  of  the  Waivau  IKL- 
prevailed  -••  I'.ir  ;  l>nt  .-'>:ne  of  the  yniing  \v«>iuen  have  rai-ed 
lines  ero--in_p  «a<-h  other  <>n  the  arm-,  \\hieh  lui^t  have  <•<>-.[ 
gn-at  pain  :  th«-v  have  al.-o  small  eiit-,  covering  in  .-ome  ra-e.s 
the  who'.,.  l»-dv. 

OetoU-r  llth  wa-  a  e"ld  morning:  thermometer  ."*!>     in  hut  ; 

doetor  -tatid  'I!'  .  The  huts  were  Well  luiilt,  top  pla>ttTt-d  ;  n<>t 
a  ra\'  '•!'  li-ht  i-  admitted,  and  the  mdv  \vav  t\>r  it  t->  i_ret  in  i- 
thr'tn^h  the  d<M.r.  Thi-  .-huw-  the  \vinter  i-  eohl.  Thev  made 
a  \\e-ierN'  inareh  t<>  a  village  <>1  Kulu,  who  entertained  them 
liU-rally  ;  tiie  ehief  gave  them  a  g'»:it  and  .-tarted  with  them 
when  th'-v  left,  Lut  after  goini:  almut  two  mile-  .-lipped  (»)]'  and 
ran  a\\'av.  Sc.me  are  naturally  mean,  -omc  are  nohle  ;  the  mean 
e-aniiot  help -huwing  their  nature,  nor  ean  the  nohle.  Li\-iuur- 
-tone  -a\  -  Itr-  always  reijue>ted  a  head  man  of  a  village  t->  go 
with  him,  Iv-eau-e  tin  v  pave  a  goi»l  rejiort  of  them,  and  no  mie 

W  i.-he-   t"  e.illllteliaiiee   j>enple  other  than    I'i  --J  teetal  >le.  and    it    e.i-N 

little.  He  -jieak-  here  of  eomiie_r  t"  mountain-  having  perpeii- 
dieular  -;d«  -  ;  tlp-e  have  villages  at  the  lMitt<»n  a.- HmvhoiiM-s 
fir  L'rain.  '.-.  ith  lar-je  granari---  on  the  toji  e..ntaining  IO«M!  in 
f  war.  A  lar^e  eow  i-  kept  th'l'e,  \\hieh  i-  -llppoM^l  to 

-  eapali!' •  of  knowing  ami    letting  the  owner-  know  uhen  war 


Living-ton"1  -praks  of  a  villaire  nn  the  we-tern  side  of  a  moun- 
tain i-al!'-d  I'liim/e  ithe  h  lieni'j  an  a-pira5e  onlv).  .Manx  \i!- 
he_"  -  are  p!::iit-  d  i  o:m<l  it-  lui-e,  l.iit  in  front,  that  i.-,  \\e-;  \\  at  d-, 
1 1,.-\  !:  i\  ••  | -'.I  in-,  and  there  tin-  \- ilia  •_''-  ai'e  a-  nutner«>ii-  :  mo-;  i\ 
t'ie->  ar--  •',  ithin  half  a  mile  .,f  .a.-'i  . .;  h<  r.  and  f<  \s  area  \\\.\- 
:,  o'h-  r  li  n:  i  let-.  Kaeh  village  ha-  a  "•lump  ol'  tree-  armiiid 
it.  t!ii-  -  |M:"!\  l'o|-  -had-  and  partlv  i'-r  pn\aey  from  mo:i\.  - 
ofd'-"ti'V,  The  heat  of  il,,'  -iin  eaii-i-  tin-  eflluvia  t«>  exlr.ili- 

•  j'li'   k  I'.  ,     -o     theV    al'e    -i-ldolil    oll'i-ll-lVe.         The    r>'-t    of  I  lie    eiplllltrv. 
\'.  h-  !  >     |j,  .'    t  n  ;t  i  vated,   i-   enyefed   U  I'  h    U'l'a--,  t  he  -eed --talK.-   at  'Oil  t 

1.  nei  -•!• .  p.       I :   i-  _'ent  1  v  ;iiiiln lat  m_r,  Ivin^  in  lo\\  wa\'e-,  -t retell- 
ing   liort  hi    it     and     -out  I,-.-,  .  -t  .         I  lie  -paee  In-t  Wei-n  c;|r{|    wave    I- 

n-'ii'N-  oe,  Mj-'i   1  !  .   a  In .  •  jv  -pi  >t  or  \\  ati-ri-iiiir-e,  u  hieh  in   -oim) 


PLANTING    TIIK    CHOP. 

eases  is  filled  with  pools  with  trickling  rills  Ix-tween.  All  the 
people  arc  engaged  at  present  in  making  mounds  six  or  eight 
feet  square,  and  from  two  to  three  feet  high.  The  sod.-  in  place.- 
not  before  hoe<l  are  separated  from  the  soil  beneath  and  collected 
into  flattened  heaps,  the  grass  undermost  ;  when  dried,  lire  is 
applied  and  slow  combustion  goes  on,  most  of  the  products  of 
the  burning  being  retained  in  the  ground  ;  much  of  the  soil  is 
incinerated.  The  final  preparation  is  effected  by  the  men 
digging  up  the  subsoil  round  the  mound,  passing  each  hoei'nl 
into  the  left  hand,  where  it  pulverizes,  and  is  then  thrown  on  to 
the  heap.  It  is  thus  virgin  soil  on  the  top  of  the  ashes  and 
burned  ground  of  the  original  heap,  very  clear  of  weeds.  At 
present  many  mounds  have  beans  and  rnai/e  about  four  inches 
high.  Holes,  a  foot  in  diameter  and  a  few  inches  deep,  are 
made  irregularly  over  the  surface  of  the  mound,  and  about  eight 
or  ten  grains  put  into  each  :  these  are  watered  by  hand  and 
calabash,  and  kept  growing  till  the  rains  set  in,  when  a  very 
early  crop  is  secured. 

After  leaving  Phunzc  thev  crossed  a  rivulet  which  emptied 
into  Lake  Xvassa — undulation  tends  northward.  Some  hills 
were  in  view,  but  were  mere  mounds  by  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tains ju-t  left  behind.  This  localitv  is  over  three  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea  and  the  air  is  delightful  ;  but  as  they  passed 
many  spots  covered  with  a  plant  which  grows  in  iiHirxhi/  places, 
probably  it  would  not  be  pleasant  as  a  place  of  residence.  The 
fuct  of  even  mai/e  being  planted  on  mounds  where  the  ground 
is  naturally  quite  dry  tells  us  the  climate  must  be  verv  humid. 

Kauma  told  Livingstone  of  some  of  his  people,  who  had 
lately  come  from  Babisa,  purchasing  ivorv  :  thev  would  give 
him  information  about  the  path.  He  took  a  fancy  to  one  of 
the  boys'  blankets,  offering  a  native  cloth,  much  larger,  in  ex- 
change, and  even  a  sheep  to  boot,  but  the  owner  being  unwilling 
to  part  with  his  covering,  Kauma  refused  to  send  for  the- 
travellers  on  account  of'  the  bov  not  wishing  to  deal  with 
him.  This  chieftain  says  his  people  are  partly  Kanthumla  and 
partly  Chipeta;  the  first  are  mountaineers  and  the  latter  are 
dwellers  on  the  plain.  The  population  of  his  village  is  large 
and  ceremonious;  in  speaking  of  them,  Livingstone  says. 
"  \\  hen  we  meet  anv  one  lie  turns  a.«ide  and  sits  down.  We 


4<Y)  GKEAT    M'MHEK    OF    I'EOPLE. 

have  to  a.-k  who  an-  the  principal  chiefs  in  the  direction 
which  \ve  wi-h  t<»  tak«\  ami  decide  accordingly.  Xoinha  \va$ 
mentioned  a-  a  chief  «>n  a  range  of  hills  on  our  wc-t  :  lx>yoiul 
him  lit-  1'ii'li  m'-eiiLra.  I  had  to  take  this  route,  as  my  people 
have  a  vt-rv  vivid  idea  of  the  danger  of  going  northwards 
toward-  tli--  Ma/itu." 

<  >ne  ilav's  travel  from  /.iml»a,  and  west-southwest,  is  the  part 
where  tin-  PoriUiMie-e  formerly  went  for  gold.  They  did  not 
come  there,  h"\vrv«T,  as  it  would  have  Ix-en  entirelv  useless, 
'i'lie  coiintrv  i-  too  full  of  jn-ople  to  allow  wild  animals 
flUow-room  :  even  the  -mailer  one.-  are  hunted  liv  net--  and 
d"_r~.  The  doctor  iv-ted  at  I'aehoma  ;  \\  ln^e  head  man  o(Vere<l 
a  Lroat  and  Ix'er,  hut  he  declined  and  went  on  to  Molomha.  Here 
Kanma'-  (-trrier~  tnrntil  Keeau-e  a  woman  died  that  mornirg  n^ 
th-'V  l.-ft  the  village;  they  a.— ertetl  il'  she  had  died  heti»re  the» 
-tarled,  not  a  man  would  have  Marled.  The  head  man  of  Moloml  it 
wa-  po.ii-  lnit  liliera),  -jave  a  urnat  and  eool<i-d  li.r  Livin^stoni  ; 
another  head  man  from  a  neighlxiring  village al-o  called  on  the  i1 
friend-  hen-,  hroiight  Ui-r  and  a  ti-\vl.  He  went  on  to  Miron-n 
with  them  ;  th'-v  -a-.v  Mount  N  vala  ill  the  di-taiX'e,  "  like  a  >nur:  f 
loaf  -h"t  up  in  the  air."  Thi-  plaee  hein^  onlv  on.-  an  1  a  hal 
hotn-  otV,  th«'\-  \\.-nt  on  t"  (  'hipanga  ;  tin-  i-  the  proper  name  oj* 
what  on  the  /iml>'-~j  j»  eorrnptetl  into  S!tUjii>n>i<i.  The  head 
man  II-T.',  a  mi-era!tle  heiup-con-iiiiiing  leper,  lied  from  them 
I heiup-dange  i- smul^cd  m  (Vntral  Afriea1. 

Th«  \  i-ame  to  a  sinilhy,  and  \satehe.l  the  iounder  at  work 
•  lra\\i:r_r  o»T  -laj-  from  the  Ixittoin  of  hi-  furnaee.  He  hroke 
through  the  hardened  ~!a'_r  l>v  -trikin^  it  wilh  an  iron  in-trn- 
ment  in-erted  in  the  end  of  a  pole,  when  the  mate-rial  flowed 
(.11'  of  the  -mall  ho!,-  left  f,,r  the  pnrpo-e  in  the  l),,!!,,!n  of 
ftf  furnaee.  T\\>-  ope  prohahlv  the  lilaek  o\ii]e  \\a-  like 
•••iiid.  and  wa-  |>ut  in  at  the  top  of  the  furnaee,  nii\,d  \\  illi  ,-har- 
eo.il.  <>n!\  one  lie!l,.\v-  wa-  at  \\<>rk,  fo|-med  "tit  of  ^..at-kin, 
and  the  l»!a-t  \va-  vi-rv  poor.  Manv  of  the-,-  furnae,  -,  ,.r  their 
;••  in  tin-,  are  m<  t  '.s  :i!i  "ii  klioll-  ;  tho-r  at  U"!'k  ha\e  a  peeuliarlv 
small  hut  1'iiilt  i >\-er  them. 

(  >n  th-  i  a-t' m  etl^f  of  a  \  all,  v  Ivinj1  ni'i-'hand  -"iith,  with 
fh-'  I>'amp-\  -ti-e.im  \\---\\\tj  a!"ir:  it.  and  the  l>/a!a  nvama 
ran^e  ,,\\  the  \\ .  -;.  in  -;det  are  t  \\ , .  village  -  S«TI  filed  hv  line  -|>e<-i- 


THE    IIOPO    AOAIN*.  401 

tnens  of  the  Jicn*  Intlicfi.  One  of  these  is  owned  l>v  the  head 
man  Then-si,  and  there  they  spent  the  night  alter  travelling 
only  a  few  miles.  It  wa.s  found  necessary  to  make  verv  short 
n.  a  relies,  for  the  sun  was  powerful,  and  the  .-oil  baked  hard, very 
trying  on  the  feet:  there  was  no  want  of  water,  however,  as 
they  came  to  supplies  every  mile  or  two. 

The  people  seemed  very  poor,  having  few  or  no  heads;  the 
only  ornaments  being  lines  and  cuttings  on  the  skin.  They 
trust  more  to  bua/e  than  cotton.  But  two  cotton  patches  were 
noticed.  The  women  were  decidedly  plain  ;  but  monopolize,  all 
the  bua/e  cloth.  Theresa  wits  excessively  liberal,  and  having 
informed  them  that  Zomba  lived  some  distance  up  the  range  and 
•was  not  the  principal  man  in  these  parts,  to  avoid  climbing  the 
hills,  the  party  turned  away  to  the  north,  in  the  direction  of 
the  paramount  chief,  Chisumpi,  whom  they  found  to  be  only 
traditionally  great. 

In  passing  along  they  came  to  a  village  embowered  in  trees. 
The  head  man,  a  fine  specimen  of  Kanthunda,  tall,  well-made, 
fine  forehead  and  Assyrian  nose,  proposed  to  them  to  stay  all 
night,  but  they  declined,  and  after  a  long,  hot  journey  they 
reached  Chitokola's  village,  a  pleasant  one  on  the  east  side  of 
Adiampwe  vallev.  Manv  elephants  and  other  animals  teed  in 
the  vallev,  and  the  Beehuana  hopo  was  seen  again  after  many 
years.  The  hopo,  vou  remember,  is  a  funnel-shaped  fence 
which  encloses  a  considerable  tract  of  country  ;  a  "drive"  is 
organized  and  animals  of  all  descriptions  are  urged  on  until  they 
become  jammed  together  in  the  neck  of  the  hopo,  where  thev 
.ire  speared  to  death,  or  else  destroyed  in  a  number  of  pitfalls 
placed  there  for  the  purpose.  In  this  neighborhood  the 
Xyumbo  plant  was  noticed,  bearing  a  pea-shaped  or  rather 
papilionaceous  flower  with  a  fine  scent.  It  grows  quite  wild 
and  its  flowers  are  yellow.  Chaola  is  the  poison  u.-cd  bv  the 
Maravi  for  their  arrows;  it  is  said  to  cause  mortification. 

It  is  so  cold  in  this  climate  that  the  huts  are  built  with  a 
coating  of  plaster,  put  on  the  outside  of  the  roof  before  the 
grass  thatch  is  applied.  Chitikola  was  absent  from  Paritala, 
when  they  arrived,  to  settle  a  i/iil<iii<l<i,  a  full  dav's  journev  otf. 
These  milandos  are  petty  lawsuits,  generally  caused  by  the 
women.  This  was  caused  by  a  person  taking  a  lew  ears  of 


4(r>  A    CASE    FOR    MfAVE. 

Indian  corn  from  another.  The  chief  administered  muavo 
(the  ordeal  poi-on1.  th"  pcr-on  vomited:  was  therefore  inwxvnt. 
On  the  'Jl-t  he  retuni"d  foot— ore  and  tired  and  at  once  pre- 
sented -on).-  l>et-r.  Tin-  continual  reference  to  food  is  natural, 
as  it  i-  an  important  point  in  the  intercourse  of  travellers 
with  th"  native  tr;U-  in  Africa.  liel'uv  the  chief  arrived  thev 
i»ot  nothing  :  the  .jiieen  even  iM-'j-^cd  a  little  meat  i'«r  her  -iek 
child,  who  \\a-  ri-coverin<_:  from  an  attack  of  -mall-pox.  There 
U-in_'  no  -hop-  th'-v  had  to  -it  -till  without  food.  The  next 
dav  thev  ivi-.iv.-d  a  'joat  cooked  whole  and  plenty  of  |M»rrid«*e. 

Chitikola  guided  them  on  the  'J'_M  to  a  village  called  Ma- 
shnmha,  the  head  man  of  which  was  the  onlv  chief  who  asked 
anvi !i in j-  e\e.-pt  medicine.  He  u-ua!lv  <jave  two  vards  of  un- 
hlcaehed  calico.  Thev  had  to  ^o  in  the  direction  of  the 
villa.'.--  which  were  on  friendly  term-  with  the  guides,  and 
sometimes  thev  went  hut  a  -hort  di-tain-e.  a-  thev  studied  to 
make  the  day-  a-  -hort  a-  po— iMe.  ( 'hitokn.  the  head  man  of 
the  la-t  village,  took  them  to  a  village  of -mith- —  1'onr  ftinuiee- 
and  one  -mi:hy  hein-j  at  work.  \\'h"ii  they  had  cm— ,-d  the 
(  'hiniamlio,  they  found  the  comitrv  near  the  hill-  covered  with 
L'um-eopal  trees,  the  liark-cloth  tree,  and  rhododendron-. 

M  panda  h-d  them  a -hort  em  to  ('himuna'-.  On  this  route 
they  came  into  a  herd  of'  al'oiit  fifteen  elejihant-.  and  a  iitimher 
of  tr-'f-s  laid  down  l>v  them:  th"-e  animals  chew  \\oody 
root-  and  liranehe-  a-  thi'-k  a-  the  handle  of  a  -pade.  Manv 
hufliil'M-s  and  a  lerd  of  eland-  \\.fe  -.  ,-n  ;  a  herd  ot'  liaama  or 
hartelx-f-t  -to.»l  at  t  \\  o  hundreil  pace-,  and  one  wa-  -hot. 

"  \\  hi  I--  all  W'-re  r.-joieiirj  o\-er  the  m<  at ."  -av-  the  d...  tor.  "  we 
L'ot  ii.-w-,  from  t  he  inhaliitanf-  of  a  larje  \'i!!aur<  in  full  llijht,  that 
th"  Ma/i"i  \\  ere  OUT  -.n  a  t'. -r a\ •.  \\'hil"  roa-:  in_f  and  eat  in ^  m<  at 
I  went  !  or  ward  \\  irh  M  p  -inila  to  •_••,  t  m.  n  \'r<  >n\  (  'himuna  to  • -arrv 
th"  p  -f.  l.'it  wa-  -OOP  recalled.  Another  crowd  Were  a!-o  in  full 
p"'  i'  :  t!:"  peop!"  M  ei'.-  rumiiii'j'  -trai-j;ht  f"  the  Xa!an\'ama 
ran/"  r-'/ardh--  of  their  feet,  makiiiL'  :i  p:it!i  1'or  t  h<  -m-e]  \  c.- 
th|-"'i.:ii  Mi"  fon-t  ;  thev  had  •  -.-aped  from  th"  Ma/itu  that 
morn:!'  '  :  '  th'  v  -aw  f h'-m  !  Mpan«la'-  JM upl.  ••,  :-!P  d  to  ].  a\ ••• 
and  /•-  »o  ],.o].  .-if-,  r  •!;•  !;•  own  \  il'aje.  l.ut  we  p"i-u:id.-d  th.-m. 
on  pain  "f  a  /<  •.-'•.,  to  take  u-  to  the  m-ar.  -t  \  i!!a-.-,  that  \\a- 
flt  the  hotfoin  "t  X'i'-i',  •.  :ima  pr-'j'.-r,  and  \v>  took  the  -j,o,.r  of 


NATIVK    FI' KNACKS.  .JO.'J 

the  fugitives.  The  hard  grass  with  stalks  marly  as  thick  as 
<|iiills  uiti-t  havr  hurt  their  feet  sorely,  \>\i(  what  of  that  in  com- 
parison wilh  dear  lift1!  We  meant  tit  take  our  stand  on  the 
hill  and  defend  our  property  in  ease  of  the  Ma/itu  coining  near; 
and  we  should,  in  the  event  of  being  successful,  lie  a  dei'enee  to 
the  fugitives  who  crowded  up  its  roekv  side-,  but  next  morning 
wo  heard  that  the  enemy  had  gone  to  the  south.  Had  we  gone 
forward,  as  we  intended,  to  .-eareh  for  men  to  carry  the  meat, 
we  should  have  met  the  marauders,  for  the  men  of  the  second 
partv  of  villagers  had  remained  hehiud  guarding  their  village 
till  the  Ma/itu  arrived,  and  they  told  us  what  a  near  escape  1 
had  had  from  walking  into  their  power.'' 

"Approaching  ('himnna's  town,"  he  continues,  "our  path  was 
through  a  forest,  and  saw  a  number  of  ant-hills — each  the  size  of 
the  end  of  a  one-story  cottage — covered  with  men  on  guard  watch- 
ing for  the  Ma/itu.  A  long  line  of  villagers  were  just  arriving 
from  the  south,  and  we  could  see  the  smoke  arising  from  the 
settlements;  none  hut  men,  the  women  and  chief  were  on  the 
mountain  called  Pambe.  These  villagers  gave  us  a  good  hut, 
and  sent  at  once  to  the  mountain  lor  their  chief.  He  came  in 
the  evening  and  begged  us  to  remain,  but  we  told  him  each  chief 
wished  the  same  thing,  and  if  we  listened  to  all  we  would  never 
get  on,  and  the  rains  were  near;  at  length,  however,  we  decided 
to  remain.  The  next  dav  all  the  people  came  down  from  1'ambe 
and  crowded  to  see  the  strangers."  Curio>itv  must  have  been 
the  special  allotment  of  this  people  in  the  distribution  of  original 
graces.  But  thev  were  industrious,  and  industry  cover.-  almost 
as  manv  sins  as  charity,  although  it  is  a  homespun  cloak. 

Their  furnaces  are  rather  bottle-shaped,  and  about  seven 
feet  high  by  three  broad.  One  old  patriarch  had  heard  of  books 
and  umbrellas,  but  had  never  seen  either.  The  oldest  inhab- 
itant had  never  travelled  tar  from  the  >pot  in  which  he  wa.J. 
born  ;  yet  he  had  a  good  knowledge  of  soils  and  agriculture,  hut 
building,  basket  making,  potterv,  and  the  manufacture  of  bark- 
cloth  and  skins  for  clothing;  also  making  of  nets,  trap  and 
cordage.  Chimuna  was  hospitable,  and  i|iiite  <;rateful  when  a 
blister  was  applied  by  Livingstone  for  his  rheumatic  pain-  : 
asked  the  latter  to  tire  a  gun  that  the  Ma/itu  mi^ht  hear  and 
know  that  armed  men  were  here.  They  all  sav  they  are  afraid 


404  THE   TRfE   SPIRIT. 

of  firearms;  for  this  rea-«»n  Livingstone  believi-d  they  were  not 
Zulus  at  all,  though  th«-v  adopttxl  some  of  their  wavs. 

In  going  on  t<>  the  village  of  Mapnio's  several  large  villages 
were  pas-ed,  each  surrounded  by  hedges  of  cuphobia,  and  had 
large  shade  tree-.  Whm  thev  arrived,  Mapuio  sent  a  calaha-h 
of  fresh-made  U-t-r,  gave  them  a  hut,  and  promised  to  cook  lor 
them  in  the  evening.  Thev  had  to  emplov  five  <»r  six  carriers, 
and  they  generally  rule  the  length  of  the  dav.  Those  from 
Chimuna's  village  growled  at  the  calico  paid  them,  hut  a  lew 
Iwad-  plea-4-d  them  j>crfectlv,  and  thev  parted  good  friends. 

At  thi<  point  Livingstone  sjveaks  of  loving  to  plea-e  them.  a> 
it  i-  not  likely  he  "will  ever  sec  them  again,  and  it  is  right  to 
•  •n!]-id«-r  their  do. ire-.  1-  that  not  \vha<  is  meant  l>y  '  lile'setl 
j-  he  that  eoilsideri-tlj  the  pixn-*'.'"  In  c:t>e<  of  inildliiln  thev 

rdy  on  their  mu~t  distant   friends  and  relatives,  and  are  seldom 

d'.-appointcd,   though    time   at    crrtain    M-a-un at    pn>ent.    fur 

in~t:in«-e — i^  pp-eiuii*.  Delicate  feature-  an-  here  -«-en,  and 
small  hand-  and  f*-et.  ( )riiament-  are  s«-arce  ;  the  ni'-n  have 
lar-^e  -lit-  in  the  luhe  ui'  the  car;  the  \vum<-n  indulge  in  this 
ptinful  luxurv  more  than  the  men,  pruhaldv  Ii>r  ihi-  rea-un. 

Thev  -j»«-n:  <).-!. .!)«•!•  '2^i\\  \\ith  Mapuio,  and  th<-  next  dav  — 
Mondav— \vciit  \\t--t\vard  to  Mak«>-a'-  village  throu^),  an  ill 
j-ciipleil  cuiiiitrv.  Th»-  m<irni:i'_r  ^:i-  lovelv,  the  \\lmle  euiintrv 
ha'hi-d  in  !>ri_r!it  -itn!i'_rlit,  and  ii"t  a  l>ri-ath  of  air  di-tnrl>cd  the 
-moke  a-  it  -lo\vlv  curled  iiji  frum  tin-  heap-  nf  Imrning  weed-, 
whieh  the  native  :i'jriciiltnri-t  WJM  1\  de-:ru\--.  Tin-  j»euplc 
•jenerallv  wen-  l»u-v  hnein^  in  the  euul  ul'  the  dav.  (  )ne  u'd 
man  in  a  village  where  thev  re-led  had  trained  the  little  hair  he 
had  left  into  a  tail,  whieh,  \\ell  pla-tefed  \\ilh  fat.  he  had  i'eiit 
o-i  it-i-lf  and  laid  llat  mi  hi-  i-ruwn  ;  anuther  \\:i-  earefullv 
i>iri!r_r  a  stick  for  -tirring  tin-  porridge,  and  other-  \\ej-e  enjuv- 
,ir_'  f  he  e. ID)  -hade  of  t lie  wild  ti_r  t  re. •-  whieh  are  alu  ay-  planted 
i1  \;l!a_'i--.  It  i-  a  -aej-ed  tr-e  all  over  . \triea  and  India,  and 


I 

H-  niedi'-ine  a  iimver-al  reim-dv.  (an  i!  be  a  (raditiun  u(  n- 
I,.inj  like  il,,.  ti-..  i.f  life.  '.sliie|,  AivhbMi'.p  Whatelv  cunjee- 
»'ir'-  tuiv  lia\'  l"«'ii  H"  d  1:1  I'aradi-e  t..  render  man  imnmrtal '.' 

r>!ie    l.ind    iifti-J-    tie.,    i-     tit"'e||     -ei  ||     liae|v.-d    all    «\>T    tu    L"'     tlle-ap, 

*  hi'  h   i-  II--  d  a-   l.iid    1  ;::!••  ;    I '.irk  eluih   i-  made  «,('  il   |.)(). 


A    DISAGREEABLE    MAX.  .j^ 

The  first  rain — a  thunder  shower — fell  in  the  afternoon  ;  it 
was  ellectual,  in  one  sense:  it  deprived  a  friend  of  the  chance 
of  getting  the  live  carriers  who  were  in  their  gardens  planting 
seed.  He  got  three  and  was  compelled  to  remain  over.  They 
jonrneved  westward  the  next  day,  and  a  little  towards  south 
through  a  country  full  of  trees  ;  here  they  saw  wild  hogs  in  a 
group,  though  iiuirkx  of  elephants,  buffaloes  and  other  animals 
were  abundant. 

November  1st,  1800,  thev  arrived  at  Chigumokirc ;  the  next 
morning  proceeded  to  Kangone.  This  village  was  situated  in 
a  mass  of  mountains,  and  to  reach  this  they  had  to  go  a  little 
further  south  than  desired.  Their  appearance  caused  much  alarm, 
and  thev  were  requested  to  wait  until  our  spokesman  explained 
the  unusual  phenomena  of  the  white  man.  Kangene  was  very 
disagreeable  to  Livingstone,  and  as  he  had  to  employ  live  car- 
riers off  him  he  was  in  this  chief's  power.  He  told  the  doctor 
that  a  brother  of  his  had  been  killed  by  the  Ma/itu  and  he 
thought  that  probably  they  belonged  to  them.  lie  told  some 
untruths  and  then  began  to  beg  powder.  He  represented  the 
country  to  be  quite  impassable  from  want  of  food  ;  the  Ma/itu 
had  stripped  it;  the  people  were  living  off  wild  fruits.  They 
\\ere  detained  here,  on  account  of  the  illness  of  Simon,  for  four 
d.iys.  The  head  man  agreed  to  let  them  have  live  men,  but  de- 
manded such  enormous  wages  that  on  the  7th  they  took  seven 
loads  forward,  leaving  two  men  with  the  rest  ;  slept  there  and 
returned  for  the  remainder  on  the  Sth.  Kangene  was  disagree- 
aMe  to  the  last.  lie  asked  where  thev  had  gone,  and,  having 
described  the  turning  point  as  near  the  hill  Chimbimbe,  he  com- 
plimented them  on  going  so  far,  and  then  sent  an  oiler  of  three 
men  ;  but  Livingstone  preferred  not  to  have  tho-e  who  would 
have  been  spies  unless  he  could  give  live  and  take  on  all  the 
loads. 

The  country  over  which  they  travel  at  present  is  level  and 
elevated,  but  there  are  mountains  all  about,  \vhich  would  ap- 
pear <|iiite  mountainous  if  on  a  map.  The  Leue  or  Leiiia  is 
said  by  the  people  to  How  into  the  Loangwa.  The  Chigumokire. 
coining  from  the  north  in  front,  eastward  of  Irongwe  ithe  .-a mo 
mountains  on  which  Kangene  skulks  out  of  sight  of  Ma/itu  •, 
flows  into  the  Leue,  and  north  of  that  is  the  Mandu,  a  little 


»  A    IIKKD   OF    BUFFALOES. 

stream  flowing  into  the  Bua.  The  rivulets  on  the  west  flow  in 
deep  defiles,  ami  tin-  elevation  on  which  they  travel  makes  it 
certain  that  no  water  can  come  from  the  lower  lands  on  the  west. 
It  -eeni-  that  tin-  1'ortugue-c  in  travelling  to  ( 'a-cml>e  did  not 
inquire  of  the  jx-ople  where  the  streams  tin  v  cro.-.-«-d  went,  for 
they  arc  ol'teii  wrongly  put,  and  indii-ate  the  direetion  only  in 
which  thev  apjHiiretl  to  l>e  flowing  at  their  crossing  places.  The 
native^  have  a  good  idea  generally  of  the  rivers  into  which  the 
stream-  llow,  though  they  are  very  deficient  in  information  as 
t»  the  condition  of  the  people  that  live  on  their  banks.  Some 
of  the  I'ortugue.-e  ijuotions  mu>t  huvi1  been  asked  through  slaves, 
ulio  would  .-how  no  hesitation  in  answering.  Maxinga,  or 
Machinga,  mean-  ''mountain-"  oiilv  ;  once  or  twice  it  is  put 
down  Sax  a  de  Maxinga, or  Maehinga,  or  Mean^a,  which,  trans- 
lated from  the  iiativt' tongue,  mean-  "rock-  of  mountains,  or 
mountain-  of  rock-." 

N"V«ml>er  liiih  found  Living-tone  at  the  "Village  of 
Smith-  ;  here  he  ri  adilv  ^»l  live  men  to  _ro  hack  alter  lu~  loads. 
The  -ni ii id  of  til* •  hammer  i-  eon- taut  from  dawn  till  -ui i-ct.  A 
herd  of  hullaloi-s  came  near  the  village  and  Living-tone  went 
on'  and  -hot  one,  tlm-  L'l-tting  meat  for  hi-  part\  and  the  vil- 
lager-, [hiring  the  night  a  lion  came  and  gave  a  loud  growl,  and 

fllldill'J    he  collltl    Hot    ;_ret    the    meat    We.lt     oil';     the   penjde    kept    Up 

a  >houting  (!>[•  hour-  aHerward  in  order  t<>  keep  lnm  awav  l>v 
tlie  human  voice.  'I  liev  had  in  I-  loaned  tin  in  to  proteet  their 
prov;-ioii-  Iroin  an\'  kind  of  intruders.  Thev  mi^ht  liave  gone 
on,  liiif  Li vnr_'-toiie  hail  a  galleil  lice!  and  could  n»!  travel. 
Here  he  -peak-  of  in/if  I'1/---,  which  are  nn-i  when  ipnie  ripe. 

I  In-   p«  ople  at    K  a  I II  ml  ii,  on  t  lie    Mailtlo,  once  l»o:i-ti-d  a   forinid- 

-to< 


Let'on-    i  1.  pliant-    and    Imn'aloe-,  \\  hi<-li 
the  al'-enee  of   the  villaj''!'-.        I  heiv  are 
al-    in    tin-  region,  and   H    \\a-  not 
m!-    o|    (!).•  nati\'e-  lir->!-.en   in  and 
ephant-  ;    and    there  are  -a«l  -lories 
frail     tenement-    and   v.  a-Miui    cruel 
'ii  I),,    fn  -t   int  i  mat  imi  a  film  1  v  lian 
/  ot  tin    mon-ter  t  in  oii-h  t  (,.•  that  eh 


STEADY    FAITH.  .J  ,7 

roof,  and   their  only   IIOJK;   is   in   the  spenr,  and  terrific  scenes 
sometimes  ensue. 

While  at  this  village  there  earne  news  by  which  a  more  timid 
heart  than  Dr.  Livingstone's  might  have  been  greatly  disturbed  ; 
he  was  told  that  the  Ma/.itu — the  scourge  of  the  whole  country 
— were  at  the  village  toward  which  thev  wen;  alwnit  journeying. 
Hut  Livingstone  was  a  courageous  man,  and  besides  being  long 
accustomed  to  the  perils  of  African  wanderings,  he  had  an  un- 
wavering faith  in  (Jod.  He  remained  in  the  village  amid  the 
busy  preparations  of  the  natives  who  expected  the  enemy  to 
break  upon  them  very  soon,  but  it  is  good  to  observe  how  his 
dependence  on  (Jod  arose  far  grainier  than  his  courage.  It  is 
good  to  see  a  strong  man  leaning  on  the  care  of  God  like  a  little 
child. 


CHAPTER    XX  III. 

A    M<>NTU    <»!••    WANT. 

Days  ..f  Anxiety —Manffniija  H1-».<1  Manirania  ati'l  Waiyati —  Artizan* —  Nativu 
Ai;ri.-'ihnre  -Beautiful  S.-cn-  ry  Ir-n  Tri'le  An  Flejihant  Hunler  — I»irti«-ul- 
lie,  Carrier*  —  |.i\  in_>ton> •'-  I...ve  for  Nature  •-  Memories  No  Fo.wl  A 
>|>!ei,  h  i  V.iM.-y  .,f  I. ili. -,  "to.-ka.l.-,  -Suii'lav  at  /.or.-  Ilaiii-Ma1  itu-  The 

Slave    I  1.  i    i:.    K^t    Afri.-a      II.-L'.--   ..f   Kami Hark    Cloth      lint-    f.rthr 

Spirit,  of  til--  I',  a*!-  C..iitr.i-Ts  in  Character  F-T.--IS  ;in.|  Kaiii*  Healthful 
AtiiiniU  'I  IP-  /.-1. r.i  v.-ry  !!•  .eita'ul  The  I-.-aii-wa  I '.a- 1  for  Worse  The 
Ila'ii-a  A  Mi-T.iMi-  S -I  SOITO-A,  M,ilti|.iie.l- A  M.-j.aiie  Forest  Nyarina/t 
T  rah:,, •«,•!,  a  U'..iua!i  I.  ..,,..f  (,  ,.,;,  F\j"  ri,  ;,.-.  uith:t  <ini'le  -The  Hills 
A  .Mil.  I1.  .-  Hui.ter,  Wint.  Wan:.  Want!  N..li!r  I  tl-ranees  -"  A  1«  a\  , 
H'lTu-ry"  lllej.haiil  Hitni'.ii^  \  i... ••///.,  .,.'  .r-  I  '.-.,!..!.  l.a.el  No  I'.r.  a.l 
Httn.-'-r  i. -..ij..-  from  a  I'.. lira  The  I...-..:  the  ]  i ....  M  <i-hr<-  'in-  All  ''<' 
M. ./«,-, .,-•  /.-..'  Th-  W- ,r-:  ..f  \i:  l.iviiu-,;..,,..1,  «,,!,;;,  u.-s  -••  l;.-.,l  liitiiikc 
ll-iii/'-r"  liea.I- .1-.  Curr- n.-y  The  rh.iini..  -.  at  I.a-t. 

THI:  t\\.>  dav-  in  tin-  litt!<-  villa.:'-  of  Kalnnilx'  \r.-r.-  full  of 
;iMXi'-tv.  lli'-  \\.iin.ii,  who  are  th<-  pn/e-  alwavs  envied  with 
jio»-t  ei.\.-i.i;i-  eves  l>v  th  •  M  i/itu,  had  Keen  -..-nt  a\vav,  and  the 
men  iii.ivd  ai>  nit  ani"ii _r  th'-ir  rude  Inrnae.-  and  ti>ixre>  with  a 

WateliJu !  ne-»    wllll'il      e\p|'.~-i-d      the     .-e|l.  i||-||e--     <  il      tile     oeea-loll 

ni"re  einphat leallv  than  aiivthili;4  th.-v  tm_rht  have  ~ai<l.  The 
Man_'a'i;i  \>'.»  ><\  \va~  e!'-ariv  ~ei  n  in  the  inilii.-trv  with  whifh 
tii.-v  handl'-l  t  If  inipleme!it>  of  t  Ifir  'rude  art.  The  eivilit  ies 
o|  tin-  raee  \\i-re  al'.vav-.  apjU'eeiafed  a-  trnlv  n-fn-'liiiii;  a!t«  r 
li.  ;n_r  aiui'tV'  d  !i\  the  iinpndenee  and  I  !np"-it  i.  in-  "1  tin-  \\  aivall, 
\vh-i  it  '"'i!d  In-  i-!'-arlv  -••••n  I'.-lt  ihein-r!  ve-  the  d'Hiiinant  raei; 
in  tir  -.iin'rv.  <  >:i  •  nl'  t  he  in.  .-t  interest  in^  pri\  i!-  _•••-  n|'  t  he 

t.M\.    I;,    ;        -    1J,,.    .  .[i|,.i|-|  milt  \      J,ir     i  .!)-'  TVll!_r      tlf     dltl'   !e|le.-    \\h|i'll 

ill-fin jn  !i  f!ie  tr,ii<  -,  all  alike  a-  tie  \  ni.i\  !•••  in  th-  ir  u'1'"'  ral 
e- i:id  .' ..  .:i  ••;  ._••!•  .;•  i:,e.-  and  d-  ji'.idat  i.  m.  And  t  h-  |e  \\a-  rai'elv 
n  •!  .•••••!  i  •  .  •:  •  d  •  .  |.  .  1  d.:1'  :'•  nee  in  t  h.  •-.•  -•  •  intiin.it'  1\  a--oeiat'd 
tnri  d  •- '  in_-M.  -:  .  d  ','.!•  ••  r-,\-i  ra«-'--.  A-  a  rule,  the  Man_'aii|a 
nr--  •  \  '  t  •  Hi'  ,  .'  . '  :  in  a' !  t  !f  -  i\  a.."-  art  -  and  inanntaelur<-. 
1  .,••:!•  !•  Him  -  t  in  n  ..ii'  a  -' :  •  ;  -•  i  •-  i-  -  a1  il<  •  f  ill'  ill  e'n  •!  h  ;  tin  i  r  :r"ii 


COXTRA.yiED   CHAHAfTKItS. 

weapons  and  implements  show  a  taste  fur  design  which  is  nut 
reached  hv  the  neighboring  tribes,  ami  in  all  matters  that  relate 
to  husbandry  they  excel  :  but  iu  d:i>h  and  eoiyagc  they  arc  de- 
ficient. The  \Vaiv:m,on  the  contrary,  have  round  apple-.shaped 
heads,  as  distinguished  from  the  long  well-shaped  heads  of  the 
poor  Manganja;  they  are  jocular  jind  merry,  given  to  travelling, 
and  bold  in  war — these  are  qualities  which  serve  them  well  as 
they  are  driven  from  pillar  to  post  through  slave  wars  and 
internal  dissension,  but  they  have  nut  the  brains  of  tin:  Man- 
ganja, nor  the  talent  to  make  their  mark  in  any  direction  where 
brains  are  wanted. 

The  skill  of  the  arti/ans  even  among  this  clever  race  seemed 
to  diminish,  however,  as  the  distance  from  the  lake  increased. 
They  have  very  little  knowledge  of  anything  beyond  their  own 
limited  possessions,  and  have  pursued  their  avocations  in  the 
face  of  difficulties  which  can  hardly  be  estimated  by  those  un- 
familiar with  the  thoroughly  commotional  character  of  a  com- 
munity comprising  as  many  sovereignties  as  there  are  villages, 
and  possessing  no  higher  law  than  the  capricious  jealousy  or 
eovetousness  of  the  hearts  of  men  in  the  rudest  barbarism.  Hut 
besides  their  working  in  iron  and  the  agricultural  duties,  tl.c 
people  of  this  region  are  much  given  to  hunting  with  nets,  and 
though  there  was  nothing  on  the  gigantic  scale  of  the  famou- 
hopo  of  the  Bak wains,  there  was  certainly  abundant  opportunity 
for  the  employment  of  all  their  skill  and  courage.  Indeed  the 
country  was  literally  overrun  with  the  monsters  of  the  forest, 
and  we  can  hardly  credit  the  accounts  of  the  indifferent  impudence 
with  which  they  stalk  about  the  abodes  of  men. 

Two  days  passed  and  the  Maxitu  not  making  their  appearance 
Livingstone  led  his  partv  on  towards  Kani/cnjc.  The  scenerv 
i-  described  as  being  vcrv  lovely — as  most  of  the  mountain 
scenerv  of  the  country  is.  Over  the  rugged  ness  a  beautiful  carpet 
of  green  hung  gracefully  as  could  \><-,  and  lofty  trees  standing 
proudly  on  summits  and  in  gorges  regulated  the  configuration 
of  the  ran^e  with  wave-like  symmetry.  These  large  trees  \\vre 
more  numerous  than  thfv  were  nearer  Lake  Xvassa.  Frequently 
aiong  this  route,  following  as  thev  did  the  highlands,  the  partv 
crossed  the  little  stream-  which  had  sources  in  the  neighborhood 
rtowiiiLT  in  the  direction  of  the  lake. 


410  SERIOUS    EMBARRASSMENTS. 

The  country  continued  .-trewn  with  the  evidences  of  the  ancient 
iron  work-.  S|  leaking  of  thoe,  the  doctor  siiys  :  "  Tlie  iron  trade 

mu.-t  have  Ixt-ii  carried  on  for  an   immense  time  in  the  country, 

•  •  ' 

lor  one  cannot  ^ri)  a  (juarter  of  a  mile  without  meeting  pieces  of 
«du£  ami  luoken  pot.-,  calcine*  1  pipes,  ami  fragments  of  the  fur- 
naces, which  arc  converted  l>v  the  tire  into  brick.  It  i>  curious 
that  the  lar_re  -tone  filetl^e-hawiiHTS  now  in  use  arc  not  called 
hv  the  name  stone-hammers,  Imt  Itv  a  distinct  word,  '  Uama  :  ' 
nyundo  i-  one  made  ol'  iron."  Though  they  are  greatly  inferior 
to  the  MaiiLranja  in  the  lake  region  in  their  pottery,  the  people 
claim  to  have  come  originally  from  Nva>sa,  and  they  al.-o  declare 
that  they  received  the  knowledge  of  iron-smelting  from  ( 'hixumpi 

<(;.ni..  ' 

At  fvanyenje  In-  received  the  u-ual  attentions;  and  it  \ra-  ex- 
re,  din.-ly  gratify  in;:  to  find  that  this  town  had  e>eap«-d  the 
ravaj-e^  ol'  tin-  Ma/itu  during  the  la-t  year.  The  chief  readily 
fnrni-hed  -i. me  food,  and  though  not  entirely  free  from  .-omc 
"t"  the  iii'>re  disagreeable  trait-  of'  men  of'  hi-  sort,  wa-  rea-ona- 
Llv  polite.  Ami'ii^  the  men  \\lio  figured  mn-t  enn.-picuously 
nlx»nt  hi-  eonrt  wa-  :in  old  p-ntleman  \\ho  <li-pla\ed  on  hi-  arm 
t  wentv--e\-en  riiiLr-  of  elephant"'  >kin,  which  marked  him  a-  the 
p;rcat  hunter  of'  the  town.  And  when  it  i-  rememlxTetl  that 
t !ie-e  tr.iphie-  had  all  U-en  won  \>\  the  sjHtir  alone,  we  should 
ii"t  lie  a-toni-hed  that  thev  are  \\nrn  with  LTi'eat  pride. 

I»nt  although  there  \\a-  aliiindance  <>f  lar^e  'jaine  reported  on 
all  -id<--  lli.-  pirtv  pa--<  d  on  \sith  n«'  -peeial  adventure.  Indeet] 
th'-  i'liii'ii' -V  \\a-  already  Ix^-ominj;  one  full  ofanxietv  and  hard- 
ship t"  I  .i \  in_r-l"iie.  Thev  were  advancing  -lowlv  toward  (lie 
IP  1 1  I  li,  and  lii-  -t>  »-k  of  tfood-  had  Keen  -adlv  dimiin-lied  through 
t  he  di-h"i:«-t  v  of  the  iiH'll  \\  ho  had  a  Ire;  id  \'  -o  f'ait  li!<  --lv  de-erted 
him.  An'!  l..--iil.-.  tin-  emliarra>-menl  of  tln--e  ln--e-  he  was 
nndi  r  tie  n. -.  e--itv  i.f  Iia\'iii_r  '-n-rier-  \'«r  tin-  -mall  -im'e  \\hh-h  he 
still  | --•  d.  The-.-  einl.:irra  — ment-,  added  to  the  devastations 

i«f    tli'-      M:i/:'l|,    made    it    e\i-eedill'_'lv    ditVlclllt      t'l    pP'«'lire    food     OH 

any  term-.  Tie-  iii'-'iiiv  ni'  IH-.-  ..f  Keiirj-  -u  dejM-ndent  <>n  earners 
V..L-  p<  rli  ip-  iii..r.-  ami..vin_r  than  it  \\uijd  have  Keen  aiii"iiLr  the 
t  ri!»  -  t  u  •  h-  r  -'.nth,  l»---au-'-  t  he  eh  !••!'-  are  le--  al>-"lnte  and  ('eel 
iii'>r'-  the  imp- .ri.ui'-e  ..f'  e..nrtin-j  their  people.  It  \sa-  not  nn- 
f 'r-  'ju- -:i»  !v  th.-  .  .L--  thai  -oine  trilling  \\him  on  the  part  of'  the 


THE   CHARMS    OF    NATUKK.  -HI 

people  made  it  impossible  to  secure  transportation,  and  in  such 
eases  the  only  thing  to  l>e  done,  was  to  p«»st  a  guard  about  the 
parks  and  go  on  until  men  could  be  engaged  to  bring  them 
up.  This  had  lx*en  the  ease  at  Kanvenje.  The  head  man, 
Kanyindnla,  came  on  the  morning  of  the  doctor's  departure 
from  his  village1  with  three  carriers,  but  they  demanded  pavrnent 
in  advance  for  their  services.  This  was  one  of  the  tricks  which  a 
traveller  is  not  long  finding  out,  and  Livingstone  knew  too  well 
that  he  would  be  only  the  poorer  by  accepting  them  on  those 
terms,  and  decided  to  go  on  to  a  little  village  at  the  "fountain 
eye"  of  the  I>na,  whence!  lie  sent  men  back  for  the  loads. 

But  the  entrance  in  his  journal  of  that  date  shows  that  he 
.found  abundant  use  for  even  the  hours  which  might  have  hung 
very  heavily  on  the  hands  of  an  ordinary  man.  His  ardent  love 
for  nature  always  came  to  his  relief,  breaking  the  power  of  the 
innumerable  annoyances  of  his  lonely  and  toilsome  marches. 
His  eye  loved  to  wander  over  the  splendid  mountains,  and  his 
habit  of  careful  observation  converted  every  scene  into  a  study. 
In  this  neighborhood  he  noticed  considerable  quantities  of  quartz 
rock,  and  fragments  of  titaniferous  iron  ore,  with  haematite 
changed  by  heat  and  magnetic  ore;  and  he  thought  it  worthy 
of  mention  that  the  little  rivulets  about  the  resting  place  flowed 
some  of  them  northward  toward  the  upper  part  of  Xvassa,  and 
others  southward,  making  a  contribution  to  the  Loangwa  and 
finding  their  way  to  the  sea  with  the  majestic  Zambesi.  A 
few  lines  of  his  written  at  this  time  exhibit  the  spirit  of  the 
man,  and  gives  us  a  glimpse  of  the  country  which  will  help  us 
to  reali/e  more  fully  his  surroundings. 

"We  left  Bua  fountain— latitude  13°  40' south— and  made 
a  short  march  to  Mokatoba,  a  stockaded  village,  where  the 
people  refused  to  admit  us  till  the  head  man  came.  They 
have  a  little  food  here,  and  sold  us  some.  We  have  been 
on  rather  short  commons  for  some  time,  and  this  made  our 
detention  agreeable.  We  rose  a  little  in  altitude  alter  leaving 
this  morning ;  then,  though  in  the  same  valley,  made  a  little 
descent  towards  the  north-northwest.  High  winds  came  driv- 
ing over  the  eastern  range,  which  is  called  Mehinje.  and 
bring  large  masses  of  clouds,  which  are  the  rain-givers.  Th:v 
seem  to  come  from  the  southeast.  The  scenery  of  the  vallev  is 


412  AFUICAN    MOUNTAINEERS. 

lovely  atul  rich  in  the  extreme.  All  the  foliage  is  fresh-washed 
and  dean  ;  young  herbage  is  bursting  through  the  ground  ;  the 
uir  is  ddiciously  cool,  and  the  birds  are  singing  joy fnl Iv  :  one, 
called  M/.ie,  i-  a  good  songster,  with  a  loud,  melodious  voi<v." 

The  charms  of  nature  multiplied  al>out  him  as  he  advanced ;  at 
every  village,  however,  there  w:is  the  unwelcome  news  of  "no 
food."  The  ravages  of  the  Maxitu  met  them  again.  The  inhabi- 
tant.- had  generally  resorted  to  the  enstoni  of  surrounding  their 
h  lines  l»v  stockades,  and  in  their  extremity ,  like  true  mountaineers, 
a-  th'-v  were,  would  ilv  to  their  rorkv  fastnesses  and  from  the  safe 
dill'-  wag»-  a  most  effectual  war  on  their  assailants  with  huge  stones 
— the  artill'Tv  of  mountain  dans  in  all  age- — whieh  thev  knew 
well  how  to  hurl  down  along  the  familiar  path-.  (Yo.-sing  the 
Sandili,  it  wa-  found  that  the  route  lav  along  the  slope  whieh 
incline*  to  the  I^oangwa,  and  verv  so.»n  the  mountains  were 
towering  U-hind,  and  a  comparatively  level  eountrv  -trelehed 
awav  toward  the  north,  covered  with  a  -ylvan  foliage  whieh 
might  ea-ilv  deeeive  tin-  nio-t  practi-ed  eye  if  viewed  only  from 
a  di-tancf.  The  -eeming  forests  of  stately  tree- on  nearer  ap- 
proach dwindled  into  mere  hop-poles.  \"a-t  districts  were  found 
to  !)«•  kf|,t  el.iih«-d  with  a  growth  of  the-e  pole-.lni!  th--  my-tery 
wa<  e:i-ilv  -<>lvi-d  when  it  was  noticed  that  the  whole  domain 
wa-  -uannin',r  with  charcoal  burners. 

<  >n  the  *J  jtli  of  November  F/ivingstone  entered  7,e..re'-  village, 
on  the  bank-  of  a  -tream  ol'  in-ignilicant  appearane«-,  called 
L"ku/hwa,  flowing  awav  toward  the  I^oangwa  through  a  -|ilen- 
did  valN'V  distinguished  bv  it-  rich,  dark  re«l  luam,  almve  which 
innumerable  lib.--  of  tin-  amarvlli-  kind  had  woven  th.-ir  pure 

\\hit'-   b!i.--om-    into  a   -liowv   carpet.        The   people  of    ihe   Village 

ea!!«'d  th'-ni-elv-  I-'«-hewa,  and.  thoii-jh  a  tribe  ol'  the  MaiiLranja, 
\M •!•••  di-tingui-hed  bv  a  dilV'-rent  marking  from  the  Atumboka, 
v.  h-.  d-A.'lt  inon-  among  ihe  hill-. 

Th--  f'-:-niidali!e  ap|>earanee  of  the  -|o<'kade  had  -.-ein-.-d  this 
vill-ij-  fV'.-n  t!i.-  a--ault-  of'  the  Ma/itu,  \\ho  came  only  and 
1  -».k,-l  .,n  it  an  !  d. -parted  ;  and  a-  th--  p.-o|,le  had  f,,,*!  to  -rll, 
1  >r.  Li\  in _• -ton« •  d--i  id.-d  to  n-main  t here  over  Sundav.  Of  this 
p«  •.[.!•-  h-  -a\  -  :  "T!i'-  til'  n  h:i\-'-  th<-  hair  dn---ed  a.-  it  a  number 
ot'  (!;••  l.-tir-  of  ••!'-ph:iii!-'  tail-  \\ere  -tti'-k  around  the  hra.l  :  th'1 
wotip-ti  'A'.ir  a  -mail  lip  ring,  and  a  straw  or  piece  of  -tick  in  the 


SUNDAY   KEKVIl'E.  413 

lower  lip,  which  dangles  down  alxmt  level  with  the  lower  edge 
of  the  chin  :  their  clothing  in  front  is  very  scanty.  The  men  know 
nothing  of  distant  places,  the  Manganja  being  :i  very  stay-at-home 
people.  The  stockades  are  crowded  with  lints,  and  the  children 
have  Imt  small  room  to  play  in  the  narrow  spaces  between." 

The  service  of  Sunday,  which  Dr.  Livingstone  never  neg- 
lected, attracted  the  attention  of  the  natives,  and  interested  them 
considerably.  Rain  was  greatly  needed,  and  as  they  had  the 
impression  that  he  was  praying  for  it,  they  wen;  probably 
watching  for  the  effects.  It  must  seem  very  strange  to  per- 
sons who  though  heathen  are  still  so  fixed  in  their  peculiar 
beliefs,  that  others  should  account  all  their  cherished  creed  a  silly 
fiction.  The  head  man  of  this  village  was  intelligent,  however, 
and  seemed  to  appreciate  the  instruction  he  received.  lie  was 
not  enough  interested  in  his  visitor  to  be  at  very  much  pains  for 
his  convenience. 

Speaking  of  him  the  doctor  says:  "  Zeore's  people  would  not 
carry  without  prepayment,  so  we  left  our  extra  loads  as  usual  and 
went  on,  sending  men  back  for  them:  these,  however,  did  not 
come  till  the  27th,  and  then  two  of  my  men  got  fever.  I  groan 
in  spirit,  and  do  not  know  how  to  make  our  gear  into  nine  loads 
only.  It  is  the  knowledge  that  we  shall  be  detained  some  two 
or  three  months  during  the  heavy  rains  that  makes  me  cleave 
to  it  as  means  of  support." 

But  he  did  not  sutler  his  troubles  to  interfere  with  his  ol ner- 
vation of  the  customs  and  enuntrv,  as  we  see  in  the  following  ex- 
tracts: "Advantage  has  been  taken  by  the  people  of  spots  where 
the  Loku/hwa  goes  round  three  parts  of  a  circle  to  erect  their 
stockaded  villages.  This  is  the  case  here,  and  the  water,  being 
stagnant,  engenders  disease.  The  countrv  aliouiul-  in  a  fine 
light  blue  flowering  perennial  pea,  which  the  people  make  use 
of  as  a  relish.  At  present  the  blossoms  only  are  collected  and 
boiled.  On  inquiring  the  name.  <>}ii/<>fj<\  the  men  asked  me  if 
we  had  none  in  our  country.  On  replying  in  the  negative,  thev 
looked  with  pity  on  us:  'What  a  wretched  countrv  not  to  have 
chilobe!'  It  is  on  the  highlands  above;  we  never  saw  it  el-e- 
where.  Another  species  of  pea  (I'JiUnbc  ?/v;r/\  with  reddish 
flowers,  is  eaten  in  the  same  way  ;  but  it  has  spread  but  little  in 
comparison.  It  is  worth  remarking  that  porridge  of  maize  or 


414  "' PROPKKTY    IN    MAN." 

sorghum  is  never  offered  without  some  pulse,  lupins,  or  l>ean 
leaves,  or  flowers;  tliev  -ecm  to  led  the  need  of  it,  or  of  pul-e, 
whi'-h  i-  richer  in  ll-  -h-foriners  than  the  porridge. 

"  La-t  ni^ht  a  l'»ud  clapping  of  hands  hv  the  men  was  fol- 
lowed bv  -everal  half—iipprc— ed  -cn-ams  bv  a  woman.  Thev 
wer»-  i|tiite  it'Irif''!,,  as  it'  she  could  not  get  them  out.  Then 
nuiiti-ded  a  lot  of  utterances  a-  if  -he  were  in  ec-ta-v,  to  which 
a  man  responding  'Moid,  moid.'  The  utterance,  so  far  a<  I 
•  •oiild  catch,  were  in  live-syllable  snatches — abrupt  and  la!x>ivd. 
I  wonder  it'  thi-  '  bubbling  or  boiling  over'  has  been  preserved 
a.-  the  t'orm  in  which  the  true  prophets  ot'  old  gave  forth  their 
'burdens,?'  One  -entence.  fivijiientlv  repeated  towards  the 
close  of  the  etl'ti-ion,  was  '  /!ni;<i,i,ti  ufa,'  '  tle-h  of  the  bow,' 
>howin_r  that  the  1'vthoiie--  loved  vciii-ou  killed  bv  the  bow. 
The  people  applauded  and  attended,  hoping  that  rain  would 
follow  h- r  etl'ort-.  And  in  \t  dav  -he  wa-  dtilv  honored  bv 
drumming  and  dam-ing." 

Here,  a-  in  so  manv  of  the  villn^c».  Living-tone  found  the 
idea  nt'  propertv  in  man  and  slave-trailing.  Thi-  1  •<  lief  in  the 
ri-_rht  to  -e|]  a  man,  while  it  -eem-  \<  rv  widelv  extended,  the 
d-ftof  a--ure-  n-,  i-  found,  except  in  tin-  Arab-,  onlv  in  t  \\  o 
fatnili'  -  of  the  pi-ople  in  thi-  ea-d  rn  part  ot'  Africa.  Tin-  Xnlu-, 
a-  we  know,  and  the  liechuana-,  al>hor  -hn'crv.  The  \\'aivau 
and  th'-  Man-_r:tnja  onlv  welcome  the  emi.— arie-  of  /an/ibar 
marki-t-  with  tln-ir  di-jradinn  \-oki-. 

Ib    wa-  iio\\  Hearing  the  Loangwa.and  it  would  be  refreshing 

to    -.  ,•    a'_r:iin.  though    -o    far    tip.  tin-    rivi-r    \\hi--h    flowed    awav 

through  tin    familiar  -••mi--  of  the  Xam'  c-i  and  on  into  the  'jri-at 

iMian.       h   would  be  like  the  opening  ot'  a  \\indo\s   on  the    lom-- 

in'"-  ••!'  a  !"ti •'  imiiri-onment.     (  >!!<•  of  the  iii"-i  beautiful  thin;'- 

I 

in  !  hi  i  haraeti  r  of'  Li\  iicj-Ii  -lie  '\  a-  the  fond  lie--  with  u  hi'  h  IM- 
'  !.  !  .-!;•  d  the  -'.Mi  t  Ilieiiiori"--  ot'  -eelie-  end-  al'i  d  bv  the  a--o<-;a 

lion-  "t  •>'!:•  r  da\-.  and  the  readim—  with  whi<h  hi-  mind 
\:-!'l-d  !o  the  •juid.iiiee  i.;'  'h'-  -impli—t  ineidint-  and  mo-? 
rdmai  '.  '  1 ')''!-_  \\  In  eh  led  h  in  <n  miaj  i  nat  ii  >n  ainoi:^  th<  m 
evti  %.\  h-  n  i  ii-lni  n-/  -e\  .-i .  -t  hard -hip-  and  biirdem  d  with  ino-t 
o;it  j-oii-  dnt  !•  -.  I!*-  w  a-  not  \\  and'  ri  n_r  in  the  wild-  ot  A  III-  a, 
;i-  -'.in.  },•,,)  nt;!  ind!%  Ii'nti-l,  lu-'-au-"1  h>-  did  not  ap|>ri-eiati-  th'- 

e|i' !•  :i'  fl  i'   lit         '    !      le'lii'     ;      )r>     In. Ill     e\i|'      !o\  i  d     the      |  .   ||  ||i  -liii-lit-     o( 


CLOTH-MAKING.  .JJ.-, 

eiv  ill/at  ion  more  than  he;  and  this  wa.s  not  a  small   part  of  hi., 
singular  power  with  the  untutored  inhabitants  of  tho.-c  wilds. 

Tin-  villages  along  his  route  as  he  approached  the  Loangwa 
were  generally  surrounded  hy  hedges  of  bamboo,  and  the  .-igu* 
of  industry  were  eheering.  Besides  the  noise  of  forges  and 
fnrnaeis,  there  was  heard  everywhere  the  tap-tap-tapping, 
which  reminded  the  travellers  of  the  peculiar  and  ingenious 
cloth-making  which  engages  so  many  quick  hands.  This  cloth 
is  manufactured  of  bark.  The  bark  on  being  removed  from 
thi'  tree  is  steeped  in  water  or  in  a  black  muddy  hole  till  the 
outer  of  the  two  inner  barks  can  be  separated,  then  commences 
the  tapping  with  the  mallet,  by  which  the  fibres  are  separated 
and  softened  and  prepared  for  their  rustic  looms.  Sometimes 
there  were  seen  beautiful  indications  of  tenderer  feelings  and 
loftier  thoughts  than  some  mav  dream  of  as  existing  so  faraway 
from  the  eon  tines  of  the  light  of  boasted  civilization.  The  ideas 
of  (iod  were  vague  indeed,  and  there  were  only  the  suggestions 
of  the  untaught  souls  about  the  existence  of  man  beyond  tin- 
grave,  but  in  these  villages  there  were  often  seen  beautiful  little 
huts,  two  feet  high  only,  which  bereaved  parents  and  friends 
had  made  with  great  care,  where  they  loved  to  place  their  daily 
oH'erings  to  the  loved  ones  who  had  gone  into  the  mysterious 
gloom.  It  was  sad  to  think  that  thev  had  no  clearer  idea-  of 
the  future,  but  it  was  a  welcome  thing  to  see  even  Mich  evi- 
dences of  the  recognition  of  human  immortalitv,  and  it  wa- 
pleasing  to  observe  such  tender  mindfulness  of  the  dead.  But 
there  are  painful  contrasts  in  human  nature,  and  in  these  verv 
villages  where  parents  and  relatives  were  .-o  thoughtful  of  their 
own  dead,  there  was  no  friendly  hand  to  stretch  aero--  the  line 
of  consanguinity  and  succor  the  desolate  orphan  ;  if  a  mother 
died,  no  one  cared  for  tin1  helpless  child  she  might  leave.  Liv- 
ingstone passed  one  of  these  poor  little  uncared-for  ones  crving 
piteously  lor  its  mother,  who  could  not  come  back  out  of  death, 
nnd  all  the  parsing  women  did  wa<  to  say  carelessly,  "She 
is  coining.''  His  own  tender  care  came  too  late,  and  tin 
little  crving  one  passed  awav.  Surely  the  Christian  woild 
cannot  withhold  from  the  millions  of  Africa  that  blessed  truth 
which,  like  the  heart  of  Christ,  ignores  the  lines  of  interest  and 
community,  and  makes  of  all  men  one  faniilv  in  the  Lord! 


.Jlfi  THK    KAINS    HF.CJINMNG. 

\Ve  cannot  tell  ho\v  tin-  inspiring  hop-  of  Africa's  mlemption 
strriigtlu'iutl  tin-  In-art  ami  hand  of  the  great  man  who,  in  all 
hi-  devotion  to  -cieiiee,  was  still  oU-ying  tin-  loftier  anxieties 
which  fi.-t  niovitl  liirn  to  lav  himself  on  (tod's  altar  an  otlerin" 

•  »*•> 

fir  the  heath* -ii.  More  ami  more  lie  wcded  to  Ix-  su-taincd  ;  no 
a-piration  could  more  than  inatrh  the  painfulnc-s  of  tin*  dailv 
lift-  he  was  leading.  Tin-  hills  were  clothed  with  forests  of 
dwarf  trci>,  who^-  spreading  l)ou|jhs  nwumulatttl  the  heavy 
droji-  of  the  rain-  which  were  Ix'gimiing  to  fall  v»-rv  fntjnentlv, 
and  >ei  nied  to  take  ill-light  in  >hakin^  tiieir  dripping  leavo  just 
\\'i«  n  the  travellers  ji:i--cd,  as  if  conspiring  with  the  cloud-  In 
di-i  neh  them  n\»-i  unpityin^ly.  This  region,  like  other  parts 
-it  the  land,  receive-  it-  liivor-  t'roni  alnive  at  regular  intervals, 
and  thi-rr  are  Imi^  pi  ri"d-  wln-u  the  -un  hold-  nndi-pnted 
-\vay  ;  and  th»ii'_rh  the  h<  at  i-  not  -o  int"lei'alile  a-  in  the  l>arren 
ie_M.i!i-,  and  the  atnio-phi  re  i-  purer  than  in  the  raid;  marshes 
«'t'  th--  lo\vi-r  lands  aloiiiT  tin1  Lrreat  river-,  (he  t:!-"iinil  IM-CUIDCS 
drv  and  hard,  and  all  al>«iit  it-  surface  are  deep  crack-  \\hich, 
in  tin-  rainv  -i'a-on,  are  .-HIU  filled,  and  their  lin^erinu  traces 
hidden  I iv  U-autifiil  ^ra--es  ;md  tlnwer<.  Now  and  then  the 
monotonv  ol'  the  -i-riili  tli|-e-t-  \\a-  n-H.-v  d  1>\  the  appearance 
of  -tatcli.T  tree-  ;  the  majc-tic  mojiaiie  -oinetnne.-  ap|'eare<i,  and 
li'-a  it it'ul  hird-.  and  odd  little  in-i -et.-,  and  varion-  animals — 
•  •land-,  /c'ira-,  -jnu-,  kania-,  pallahc,  ImiTaliMS,  and  m-d-hncks. 
Th'-e  are  ai noii''  the  choice  iratiie  of  the  coiintrv,  and  the  doctor 

~ 

wa-  f'ortniiatc,  alihoiiLrh  he  \\  a-  no  longer  -kilt'nl  as  a  hunter, 
in  -cciirin_r  e.  in-idi  -rahlc  -npplie-.  I'«rha|»-  no  animal  in  Atnca 
i-  at  once  >o  much  admired  \'»r  it-  li'-antv  and  at  the  -aine  time 
-i  hL'hlv  valued  I'.r  it-  tl.--h  a-  the  -insularly  \\  ild  and  fanta-ti-- 
/.  Kr a  ;  hi-  !•«  intit'ul  -tripe-  !la-hin;_'  in  the  -nn,  and  hi-  marvel- 
!"H-  -raei'lhlin--  a-  he  da-he-  al-out  the  |], .\\er-  or  through  the 
fiir-e-t-.  Jill  the  |M  holder  with  admiration,  and  there  i-  no  liner 
••poj-!  ih. in  d:i-hin_r  into  the  mid-t  of' the  -pl.-nilid  herd-  of  them 
uhi'  ii  rii'ive  ali'-n'  :dino-t  anvwhere. 

.\f'-r  innnmi-ral'lc  annovanii--  iVoin  ^ni-'e-  and  tnnilile  with 
i-ivri- r-  a:,d  ila\-  <•('  -trnj'jlinj  a!"ii^  the  nio-t  nnpat h-like- 
p'.'!,-,  Li\  in/-to|M-  at  la-t  r- aehed  the  I^iaii^waatld  halted  at 
th'-  -!  !'•  -n  jK  -Id  of  Maranda.  I'-nt  \vear\in^r  a-  the  march  had 
\*>:i,  '!i'T«-  \\a-  n  ''liinj  refi  e-hmi.'  to  lie  -ecu  or  heard  there. 


CROSSING    TIIK    LOAN(i\VA.  417 

only  the  desolate,  neglected  appearance  of  the  fields,  and  stories 
of  the  ravages  of  the  national  banditti  who  were  the  terror  of 
all  the  region  through  which  he  had  passed.  And  l>eing  un- 
able t<>  obtain  (bod  of  any  sort  for  any  consideration,  the  party 
decided  on  crossing  the  river  immediately.  They  wen-  now 
in  1*2°  -15'  S. — about  three  hundred  miles  nl>ove  the  confluence 
of  the  Loangwa  with  the  Zambesi,  with  which  we  became 
familiar  in  earlier  portions  of  this  work.  Though  so  far  away 
from  its  mouth,  the  river  was  from  seventy  to  a  hundred  yards 
wide  and  <juite  deep.  It  flows  down  from  the  mountains  on 
the  north  out  of  the  Chitale  country.  The1  sandy  bottom  which 
distinguishes  so  many  African  rivers  and  the  great  sand-banks 
were  features  to  be  expected,  and  the  alluvial  banks  with  great 
forest  trees  along  them  were  familiar  scenes.  There,  too,  were 
the  various  animals  whose  presence  intensify  the  wildness  of 
the  land. 

The  experiences  had  been  trying  enough  in  Manganja  country, 
but  a  more  painful  pilgrimage  was  before  him. 

The  partv,  which  had  been  reduced,  first  bv  the  return  of  the 
worthless  Sepovs  and  afterwards  bv  the  desertion  of  Musa  and 
his  Johanna  men,  had  recently  been  reinforced  bv  two  Waivau 
and  another  man  who  had  been  employed  as  keeper  of  four  gnats, 
which  we're  verv  highlv  valued  bv  Dr.  Livingstone  lor  their 
milk.  After  crossing  the  Loangwa  the  doctor  headed  his  party 
more  directly  north  toward  the  foot  of  Lake  Tangauvika.  The 
route  lay  first  across  a  vast  extent  of  low  flat  eountrv — a  coun- 
trv  where  nature  had  been  very  lavish  of  her  wealth,  but  sadly 
cursed  by  human  degradation.  The  Babisa  who  occupied  the 
land  under  various  local  names,  while  dependents  of'  the  u'l'eut 
paramount  chieftain  on  the  north,  as  is  gcnerallv  the  ca.-e  in  the 
remote  dependencies  of  African  chieftains,  trave  little  thought 
to  his  authority,  and  imitated  the  Ma/itu  in  all  the  idle  plun- 
dering habits  which  distinguish  those  tribes  who  make  trading 
their  principal  business.  It  required  only  a  few  davs  in  their 
midst  to  show  Dr.  Livingstone  that  he  could  expect  verv  little 
civility  at  their  hands.  Their  business  was  in  slaves  and  ivory, 
•and  there  was  a  poor  welcome  for  the  traveller  who  wanted 
neither.  It  was  almost  impossible  to  purchase  food  of  anv  ,-m-t, 
and  frequently  even  a  hut  was  refused.  The  hardships  must 


A    NAirUAI,    AKCAI'K. 
41X 

liavr  l>ei>n  -even-  whi>-h  weiv  almost  unendurable  to  tlu1  tnan 
who  IKK!  alreadv  e.x|*  rieiieed  j>atit-ntlv  -<>  imn-li  want  and  ex- 
jmsiiiv,  and  \\lio  \va-  hraeed  l>y  higher  u-pirations  and  deeper 
eonviei ions  i'f  dntv  tlian  had  ever  imj>elled  an  explorer  In-fore. 
Tin-  i^n-at  diftii'ultv  of  procuring  gnide>  great  Iv  aggravated  the 
other  .;)!*'•! •;••-  of  the  inareli.  It  was  trying  imlet-d  to  !><•  e>.m- 
jw  !!>-d  i.i  -trike  a<To—  tin-  pathh>s  lore-ts,  wet  and  hungrv,  with 
ulmo-t  ei-rtaintv  that  the  to-morro\v  would  l>ring  nothing  hetter 
tliarj  to-dav.  It  wa-  fortnnat4 — indeetl  it  was  more  than  lortu- 
ir.it«'.  it  wa-  providential — that  thi-  inhospitable  land  was  alive 
evervwhere  with  splendid  ganio,  and  from  the-r  herd-  the  entire 
-!nr.'  »!'  loi.d  wa-  supplied.  I  >av  ai't>'r  dav  there  was  the  same 
wr;i!-\it;^  hailing  «jf  the  natives  al»>iit  everv  trifling  matter  and 
tin-  -ame  aironi/in^  gnawings  of  hnnger.  lint  there  were  ehanns 
in  t!ie  f'iri--t  -'i-iiei-y  \\Iii. 'h  -om>-ttmi -  ehei-red  the  gn-at  man'- 
.-••ill  a-  !»••  j':i---«l  along  with  hi>  little  hand  ofiolloweis.  Sume- 
ti:n>--  tin-  •_;!••  :it  in»pan>-  tri-<-  prevail--'!:  tin  ir  imiiu'ii-e  >i/e.  the 
r>  _ru!:ir  di-tai!'1.--  at  whieh  t ln-v  -to. «],  and  the  alix-nee  from  their 
-tai.  1\-  trnnl.-  of  lower  hrain'ln-,  \\hi!'-  th>'ir  splendid  foliage 
w. iv>-  a  i-tnopv  far  alxtvc  through  \\  hi<  li  the  golil>-n  sun.-hine  \\a- 
liltej-.'d  il.e.vn  >m  the  l"\vlv  \\ild  llo\\->-r-.  and  the  \\ing-,  (it'l»ir«l- 
and  •_'ln--v  >-..a?-  >•!'  /e!(i';L-  ami  ant>-l>ijn--.  t'..nn>'d  a  grand  areade 
l'ii-  (i.>'l  to  -mile  on.  The->-  Ix-auties  and  the  grandeur  were 

11"!    1   '-!    oil     I  ,1  Vlllg-tolie. 

(  '!ian:iin_r  a-  had  U-en  the  ehond  inel'  »li. •-  \s  hich  soinetillles 
lit-"!-.'-  "ti  lii-  e:ir  alonur  the  /aiiil»e>i,  tli.-re  w>  r>'  manv  in  w 
ii..t.  -  1. 1  l». •  ili-i  iii'_rni-he>l  hep  ,  and  there  e. .11 1.1  lie  1m  Ie  doiiht  that 
t!i>-  r.-_rion  w:s-  r;.  h.-r  in  ornitholngie;d  lif>-  than  anv  h>-  ha>l  -ern. 

(  ),,  I ).  .•.•ml"  r  th>-  '_'":h  Living-tone  r>a>-h>-<l  thevilla^'1  "f 
('.!-.  !•.!..,  l.ti?  MI, t  the  .jn-al  i  liief  \\li.i  figure-  e !•«« -where  in  hi" 
»tur\  .  Ilii-  man  wa-  the  m:t-ter  of  a  ini->Tahle  hamlet  eon-i-t- 
in_'  I't'onlv  a  fi-w  IIM'-.  Th'-  appearaii' e  \\a-  eiimi-h  (.1  da-h  all 

th-      h-.p.-.     \\llirll    had     !..en     eh.ji-hed     ,,f    till.lill-    |iiiH|.          N'olhiil- 

ron!  !  1,.  h  i, !  ;  "  1 10  _'rain.  not  ev>-n  herli-.''  "  A  (:>-r  a  -hort  mareh 
Jr. -MI  li-  r.  ."  -;t\'  h'-,  "  \\ i  >-ame  ?.»  the  N vama/i,  a  eon-id>  ra- 
(,!•  rivul'-l  e..[iiii]_'  from  (he  north  to  (all  into  ;h--  I/nangua. 
li  Li-  id-  -am.  •  hara'ter.  of -ti>-p  alluvial  liank-.  a.-  I'ama/.i.  and 
a!i  ,!.'  ?!..-  .iitn-  -.-,  i-hh,  1'iit  mil'  h  -hall"\\i-r;  !"in  di-ep,  though 
i  a*  -••.•.'I'll.  !V"in  liftv  to  -ixtv  \ard-  \si>le.  \\'e  -aw 


THK    I.OANGWA    VAI-LKY.  •}!'.) 

some  ,lo\v  hills,  of  coarse  sandstone,  and  on  crossing  these  we 
could  sec,  by  looking  back,  that  for  many  days  \vc  had  been 
travelling  over  a  perfectly  level  valley,  clothed  with  a  mantle  of 
forest.  The  barometers  had  shown  no  difference  of  level  from 
about  one  thousand  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  We  Ix'gan 
our  descent  into  this  great  vallcv  when  we  left  the  source  of  the 
Bna  ;  and  now  these  low  hills,  called  Xgale  or  Xgaloa,  though 
onlv  one  hundred  feet  or  so  above  the  level  we  had  left,  showed 
that  we  had  come  to  the  shore  of  an  ancient  lake,  which  prob- 
ablv  was  let  oil'  when  the  rent  of  Kebra-basa  on  the;  Zambesi 
was  made,  for  we  found  immense  banks  of  well-rounded  shingle 
above — or,  rather,  thev  mav  be  called  mounds  of  shingle — all 
of  hard  silicious  schist  with  a  few  pieces  of  fossil-wood  among 
them.  The  gullies  reveal  a  stratum  of  this  well-rounded  shingle, 
Iving  on  a  soft  greenish  sandstone,  which  again  lies  on  the  coarse 
sandstone  first  observed.  This  formation  is  identical  with  that 
observed  formerly  below  the  Victoria  Falls.  We  have  the 
mountains  still  on  our  north  and  northwest  (the  so-called  moun- 
tains of  Bisa,  or  Babisa),  and  from  them  the  Nyama/i  Hows, 
while  Pama/.i  comes  round  the  end,  or  what  appears  to  be  the 
end,  of  the  higher  portion." 

But  hunger,  the  hard  master,  drove  them  on  toward  the  vil- 
lage of  one  Kavimba,  who  had  successfully  resisted  the  Mnxicu. 
There  he  was  destined  to  disappointment  as  usual.  Kavimba 
gave  onlv  a  small  return-present  for  the  offering  which  was 
made  him,  and  would  sell  nothing  except  for  most  exorbitant 
price.-.  All  dav  the  '21th  of  December  thev  remained  Irving  to 
get  some  grain.  But,  besides  the  ordinary  difficulties  of  dealing 
with  thc<c  professional  traders,  in  this  particular  place  the  womei' 
were  rather  in  authority,  and  the  Kavimba  verv  readilv  turned 
ovc'1  '.!.<•  matter  of  bargaining  to  hi-  spou-e.  She  went  about 
her  business  after  the  fashion  of'  a  fish-woman.  There  was  no 
end  to  her  -wearing  and  cursing,  nor  could  anv  amount  of  patience 
draw  from  her  anything  like  a  reasonable  return  for  the  articles 
i-he  dc-ired. 

The  next  day  was  ( 'A/vV///".--,  but  in-tead  of  a  Christum* 
dinner  the  dav  was  made  painfullv  mrmorable  bv  the  lo—  «{' 
the  tour  goats  which  Livingstone  had  kept  so  caivfullv  in  his 
long  march.  It  was  a  sad  loss  indeed;  with  no  bread,  onlv 


42t)  H»:K  nrxri:i:>  AND  THKIK  niun. 

Rich  coar-e  food  a-  could  In*  picked  np  here  ami  then1,  it  wo.-* 
l»ud  t'»  In-  rohlnil  of  tlii'  la-t  article  which  ^ave  him  anv  >»rt 
of  .satisfaction.  "Tin-  lo--,"  he  said,  "  allivted  me  more  than 
anv  OIK-  could  imagine."  Hut  everv  dav  brought  so  manv  ills 
that  tht  re  was  hardlv  time  tor  more  than  a  thought  ulxxit  each. 
From  tli«'  town  of  Kaviml»a  a  man  had  volunteered  his  MTV  ices 
a.-  iMiide  :  onlv  the  next  dav  he  a-ked  for  the  doth  which  lie  was 
tn  receive  that  he  misfit  wear  it,  as  hU  hark  eloth  was  a  mi>-er- 
a!»le  e<  ivrriii'^  ;  no  -UMIKT  had  In-  nxfivtnl  it  than  he  watchwl  his 
ehanee  and  iMiltt-d  on  the  fir-t  opportunity. 

I'n-in^  thn^    li-lt  to  th.-ir  <»\vn    indirment    thev  ]>res>etl  on,  fol- 

»'  .        I 

lowing  as  in-arly  as  j><>--i!i!e  tin-  track  nt'  a  travelling  partv  of 
I».il»i-a.  and  the  altcniouii  of  the  117th  of  I)ceeml>er  n-acln-d  the 
hi!!-  on  the  north,  \\heiv  the  Nvama/i  ri-e-»  ;  and  after  passing 
iij)  the  l,.-il  i  it'  a  rivulet  lor  ,-ome  time  l»f^an  the  ascent,  of  which 
he  >:iv~  :  "At  the  l>ottoin  and  in  the  rivulet  the  .-hin^le  .-tratnin 
\sa«  -otnetinie-  fit'tv  t'-et  thick,  then  a-  \\  ••  axt-ndei]  \\c  met  mii-a 
rclii-t  tilted  on  ed_re,  tin  ii  'jrav  ^iiei--,  and  la-t  an  i^m-on*  tra|> 
amon_'  ijnart/  rock-,  \\ith  a  L_ri'eal  deal  of  hri^ht  mica  and  talc 
in  them.  <  hi  r-  Mm_r  near  the  tn|>  of  the  (ir-t  a-cent  two  honey 
hunt'  r-  came  to  n-.  Tlp-v  \\.re  n-in_r  t  he  hum  v-'juide  a<  an 
aid;  the  liiid  i-ame  to  n~  a-  thev  arri\'ed.  \\aited  <juietlv  during 
the  halt-hour  the\-  -moked  and  chatted,  and  then  went  on  with 

tllelll." 

Tiii-  •  \traordinarv  l>ird  llie-  from  tree  to  tr-e  in  front  of  the 
hunter,  chirruping  lomllv,  and  \\ill  not  !>e  cnntent  till  it  arrive^ 
at  the  -pot  \\li'-re  the  I,,,-'  n.-~t  i-  ;  it  then  \sail-  ijnietlv  till  the 
lion.-v  i-  taken,  and  lied-  on  the  lipik.-n  mor-el-  nf  eomh  which 
f.il!  to  ii-  -hare. 

N-ar  -nn-et  the  party  ••ii'tunpcd  hv  \\ater  "n  the  cm.  1  height 
aii'i  made  their  -he!i.  r  jl.r  lh--  ni-lit.  A  l'e\\  extracts  from  the 
la-'  :.o'i!-iial  v.ill  -erve  I.,  tier  to  convey  the  true  picture  of  the 


\'  :     .in  M|'  ir   -A.-  e..n!d    _'i\'e,  and   \\i!l  al-o  -.  rve    Kett 
tii--  i  •   :!   -  ;  >:r:t   ••('  t  \\<    man. 

"  I  IP-  n«\t  dav."  he  \\  rite.,  "  three  men,  u'oiiiLT  to  hnnl  1-ee-, 
rai  ne  !o  n-  a-  •,'.•••,'..-!.  -tart  in^'  and  a--nnd  n-  that  M<M-r\\a-« 
•-'.  i-  !>•:!•.  1  i  •  •  t'n-'  |>art  \  ha'l  t"l-l  u-  t  he  -aine  t  inn_r,  and  -o 
»•'•<  '.i  h  i\  ••  \\  ,•  !••:,•  .  h  '.HP  •  -  :i'  '  in'tUti  HI  ai  '.'  \\  hen  in 


MOKUWA'H  VISIT.  .j^j 

reality  they  wen;  ' jitttnri  (far)/  that  wo  l>egin  to  think  jttifu^i 
means  '  I  wi>h  you  to  go  there,'  and  j>nfuri  tin-  reverse.  In 
this  cast;  nmr  meant  an  hour  and  three-quarters  from  our 
shvping-place  to  Moerwa's ! 

"  When  we  look  hade  from  the  height  to  which  we  hav« 
ascended  we  see  a  great  plain  clothed  with  dark  green  fon>t 
except  at  the  line  of  yellowish  grass,  where  probably  the  Loantrwn 
flows.  ( >n  the  e:ist  and  Miutheast  this  plain  is  bounded  at  the 
extreme  range  of  our  vi.-iou  by  a  wall  of  dim  blue  mountain- 
forty  or  lifty  miles  off. 

"  Moerwa  came  to  vi>it  me  in  my  hut,  a  rather  stupid  man, 
though  he  has  a  well-shaped  and  well-developed  forehead,  and 
tried  the  usual  little  arts  of  getting  us  to  buy  all  we  need  here 
though  the  prices  are  exorbitant.  '  Xo  people  in  front :  <rreat 

~  I  II  /      o 

hunger  there.'  '  We  must  buy  food  here  and  carry  it  to  support 
us.'  On  asking  the  names  of  the  next  head  man  he  would  not 
inform  me,  till  I  told  him  to  try  and  speak  like  a  man  ;  he  then 
told  us  that  the  first  Lobemba  chief  was  Motuna,  and  the  next 
Chafunga.  We  have  nothing,  as  we  saw  no  animals  in  our  way 
hither,  and  hunger  is  ill  to  bear.  ]>y  giving  Moerwa  a  good 
large  cloth  he  was  induced  to  cook  a  mess  of  maere  or  millet 
and  elephant's  stomaeli  ;  it  was  so  good  to  get  a  full  meal  that 
I  could  have  given  him  another  cloth,  and  the  more  so  as  it  was 
accompanied  by  a  message  that  he  would  cook  more  next  day 
and  in  larger  quantity.  On  inquiring  next  evening  he  said  '  the 
man  had  told  lies,'  lie  had  cooked  nothing  more:  he  wa.-«  prone 
to  lie  himself,  and  was  a  rather  bad  specimen  of  a  chief. 

'•  While  resting  en  route  for  Chitemba's,  who  it  was  reported 
had  siuressfully  resisted  the  Ma/itu,  Moerwa,  with  all  his  fbn-e 
of  men,  women,  and  dogs,  came  up,  on  his  way  to  hunt  elephants. 
The  men  were  furnished  with  big  spears,  and  their  dogs  are  u-M-d 
to  enu'aije  the  animal's  attention  while  they  spear  it  ;  the  women 
cook  the  meat  and  make  huts,  and  a  smith  goes  with  them  to 
mend  any  spear  that  may  be  broken." 

Continuing  their  journey  over  level  plateaux  on  which  the 
roads  are  wisely  placed,  they  hardlv  realized  that  thev  were 
travelling  in  a  mountainous  region.  It  was  all  covered  with 
dense  forest,  which  in  manv  ca>es  is  pollarded,  from  beiiiiT  cut 
ii>r  bark  cloth  or  for  iiimtinu'  purpo.-es.  Masuko  fruit  abounds. 
From  the  eisalpiiuo  and  gum-copal  trees  bark  cloth  i>  made. 


i_>l>  A    HF-Al'TIFfl.   SIM  KIT. 

Tlu-v  now  came  to  lar^e  masses  of  htpmatitc,  which  wiu»  often 
ferruginous:  there  was  c-onnlonu'ratc  too,  manv  quart/  jH'bhles 
Ijcin^  intermixed.  "  It  -ci-m-,"  savs  Livinjrstoiu',  "  a.«  if  when 
the.  hikes  e.\i.-t«tl  in  the  lower  land>  the  higher  levels  gave  forth 
jreat  (juantitit-s  of  waU-r  from  ehalvlx-atc  fountains,  which  de- 
po-ited  this  irmi  ore."  <  »rav  granite  or  (jtiart/.  with  talc  in  it 
\va-  di-covered  under  the  hjetnatitc. 

Of  tlii-  re-j-oa  the  doctor  writes:  '  The  forest  resounds  wit!. 
-in'_rin<r  bird-,  intent  mi  ni< lifu~.it ion.  Franco!  ins  alxnind,  lint 
an-  wild.  '  NVhip-jmor-wills,'  and  another  l>ird,  which  lias  a 
more  la! tore*  1  treble  note  and  voicv — '  ( )h,  oh,  oh  ! '  Gay  flowers 
lilu-h  nn-i-en,  l»nt  the  jM-njde  have  a  ^MM!  idea  of  what  is  eat- 
alile  and  what  ii'>t.  I  looked  at  a  woman's  basket  of  leaves 
which  -In-  had  collected  for  -upper,  and  it  contained  eijjjht  or  ten 
kind-,  with  mn-hroonis  and  orchidaceous  Howcrs.  NN'e  have  a 
S!i.-i-e--i(in  of  -!io\\er-  to-d:iv,  from  iioi'tliea-t  and  east -northeast. 
\\ '••  are  uncertain  when  we  -hall  come  to  a  village,  as  the  Haliisa 
will  not  t--!l  n-  \vhere  they  are  situated.  In  the  evening  we 
enctinijMMl  he-ide  a  little  rill,  and  made  our  -helter-,  Imt  we  had 
-o  little  to  eat  that  I  dreamed  the  ni^ht  lon^  o|'  dinner-  I  had 
eaten,  and  rniirht  have  Ix-eii  etitinj^." 

Nothing  could  IM-  mo re  Ix-.iutifnl  than  the  heautitul  words 
which  (o!!o\v  tlii-  mention  of' the  hitter  \\ant  which  was  wearing 
awav  the  life  of  tliis  -iirjularlv  i_riMMl  man — "  I  -hall  make  this 
In  auMtul  land  known,  which  i-  an  essential  part  of  the  process 
liv  which  it  will  lieenm..  the  '  plea-ant  haunt-  of  men.'  '  It  was 
( 'hri-t  -like  truK'  to  Ke  thus  aide  to  find  -\\-ert  consolation  in  the 
hope  of'  other-'  liappine-s.  \\'e  are  prepare*  1  for  the  word-  which 
CO-IP-  to  u-  in  his  journal  on  I>eceinl>er  .".1-t:  "  We  en«l  l^titi. 
It  hi-  not  Keen  -o  fruitful  or  n-eful  a-  I  intended.  \\'ill  trv  t<» 
do  liefter  in  1  ^'17,  and  lie  In-ifer.  more  gentle  and  lo\  in_r  ;  and 
ma/  tii'-  Almiuhtv,  to  \\liom  I  commit  mv  wav,  lirint!  ni\  de-- 
-i"  -  to  pa--  and  |To-p.  r  in--  !  L<  t  ail  the  -in-  of  |  siiC  I.e  Dotted 
o;i'  lor  .I'-'i-'  -,il,.  !  Ho-.v  tli--  -_rreat,  hnmlile.  pure,  t- n-l-  r, 
'oV!!r_r  a:id  ti'u-tin-j  -otil  -hiin-  out  in  -udi  \\'or-l-I  N«it  unlike 
it  i»  t  lie  ]"' i  !'ii -i !  "ii  .Ian  uar  v  1-t,  1  s»>7  :  "  Ma\  he  \\  h->  i-  full  of 
/r'i'-e  and  tni:!i  impr«---  In-  c|iara<-fer  <>n  mm-  ;  'jra----,  -:i/i-nn--s 
to  -how  I:  i  '.'or.  t  rut  h.  t  rut  hfulii----,  -in-  •••rit  \ ,  honor.  l->r  hi*  m-  rev'- 


ELKIMIANT    Hl'XTIXO.  -lltf 

Being  obliged  to  remain  on  account  of  ii  threatened  m-t-in  ruin, 
the  doctor  bought  :i  scn/e  ((inlocfiiulatiut  »win(h-miannft\  a  rut- 
looking  uniinal  ;  he  was  glad  to  g<  t  anything  in  the  shape  of 
meat. 

The  next  day  was  no  letter,  and  the  few  lines  he  wrote  tell 
a  sad  storv  :  "It  is  a  m-t-in  rain.  The  boiling-j>oint  ther- 
mometer shows  an  altitude  of  three  thousand  live  hundred  and 
sixty-five,  feet  uhove  the  sea.  Barometer,  three  thousand  nine 
hundred  and  eighty-three  feet  ditto.  We  get  a  little  macre  here, 
and  prefer  it  to  lx,'ing  drenched  and  our  goods  spoiled.  We 
have  neither  sugar  nor  salt,  so  there  are  no  soluble  goods;  hut 
cloth  and  gunpowder  get  damaged  easily.  It  is  hard  fare  and 
scanty  ;  I  feel  always  hungry,  and  am  constantly  dreaming  of 
better  food  when  I  should  be  sleeping.  Savory  viands  of  former 
times  come  vividly  up  before  the  imagination,  even  in  mv  wak- 
ing hours;  this  is  rather  odd  as  I  am  not  a  dreamer;  indeed  I 
scarcely  ever  dream  but  when  lam  going  to  be  ill  or  actually  so." 

They  were  now  on  the  northwestern  brim  of  the  great  Loangwa 
valley.  The  rainy  season,  which  had  fully  set  in,  is  the  harvest 
time  for  the  expert  hunters  of  the  country.  The  ground  soon 
becomes  exceedingly  boggy,  and  the  elephant,  taken  at  the  dis- 
advantage of  sinking  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  in  soft  mud  every 
step  they  take,  falls  an  easy  prey  to  his  skilful  assailant.  This 
great  giant  of  the  forest  is  always  easily  confused,  as  \ve  know, 
by  the  packs  of  yelping  dogs.  The  hunters  of  this  valley  are 
doubly  secure  when  they  add  this  confusion  to  the  embarrass- 
ment of  bad  footing.  They  watch  their  time  and  run  up  behind 
the  elephant  and  with  a  single  blow  of  a  .-harp  axe  hamstring 
him.  In  other  parts  of  the  country  the  method  of  hunting 
these  huge  monsters  is  more  perilous,  and  more  skilful  than 
with  spear,  axe  or  gun.  The  sword  figures  :\s  the  chosen  weapon. 
The  hunters  surround  the  animal,  and  eluding  all  hi-  a-saults, 
while  near  enough  to  torment  him  greatly  with  their  .-harp  and 
glittering  blades,  with  matchless  dexterity  succeed  in  dealing 
the  disabling  and  fatal  blows.  Mr.  Baker,  who  witne-.-cd  much 
of  this  sword  hunting,  declares  that  nothing  can  excel  the 
wonderful  skill  of  these  men. 

But  half  starved  and  full  of  pain,  his  whole  heart  set  on  the 
accomplishment  of  a  great  work.  Livingstone  thought  little  of 


426  TKIAI-S    AND    HUXOKK. 

the.  .«j*>rts  which  have  U-eu  the  principal  charm  of  African  ex- 
ploration to  iuo-t  dt  tho-c  who  have  left  u>  the  rvconl  of  tlicir 
journey.-. 

It  was  the  <jth  of  January  Iwfore  he  could  continue  his  journey. 
As  he  advanced  the  land  W;L-  more  than  ever  desolate  ;  no  jM-ople 
except  at  wide  intervals,  and  even  the  animal-  be^an  to  disap- 
jM-ur.  That  dav  al-o  a  M-rimjs  misfortune  occurred  ;  the  chro- 
nometers i;ot  injure«l  i>v  U-in^  dropped  l>v  the  li»v  who  carried 
them.  No  food  \va-  to  lie  had  ;  yet  the  countrv  was  l>eauiiful. 
The  vallev  had  the  appeanince  of  Ix-autiful  park-;  hut  they 
were  all  lull  of  water,  and  the  tjreatot  caution  W:L-  needed  con- 
tinuallv  to  avoid  tailing  into  the  deep  watcrholes  made  by  the 
fet-t  ot"  elephants  or  l>ulVa!oc-. 

Hi-  own  laii'/uau'e  will  tell  u-  njo-t  Jouehin^jly  t hi1  story  of 
tho-e  da\~:  "  In  tin-  oo/e  jjenerallv  llie  \\ati  r  i-onie-  half-way 
iiji  the  -h«M-.  and  we  Lr"  pla-h.  p!a-h,  |i!a~li,  in  the  lawn-liUe 
glade.  Then-  are  no  pcuplc  In TC  now  in  tin---  lovely  wild  val- 
lev-; Imt  to-dav  we  came  to  mound-  made  of  old  for  planting 
tjrain,  and  ,-la^  from  iron  tiirnace-.  1  lie  'jmde  wa-  rather 
oH'eiide<l  IM-<"UI~'-  he  did  not  '_r('t  meat  and  meal,  though  lie  i- 

aci-|l-tolil<-<l    to     leave-     at      home,   ail<l    We    had    lloue   to   ^ivc   e\cejit 

l»v  wanting  onr-'-lvc- :  he  tinind  a  me—  without  much  lal«>r  in 
the  t'on-t.  Mv  -lock  of  m.  a!  c-ame  to  an  end  to-day.  I  nit  Simon 
gave  me  -ome  "f  hi-.  It  i-  not  the  unplca-autuo-  ot'  rating 
unpalataltlc  1  •  >"d  that  t<-a-e-  on.-,  Imt  we  are  never  .-ati-tied  ;  I 
could  lira.'.-  mv-elf  to  di-p»-e  ••!'  a  very  ui;-avory  m,--,  and  think 
no  more  alioiit  it  ;  lint  this  rnaerc  engender- a  (-ravini;  v\hich 

i»la"Ue-  dav  and   ni"li!   nice— anl  Iv. 
i 

••  \\  ,•  ,-r -d    :h''    Mua-i,  flouinu'   -tron-jl\   to  the  ea-t    to   the 

L.  .an-wa  river,  ..n  the  iii..niiiiLr  o|  the  loih,  and  in  the  alter- 
no.  ,n  an  i-\ci--ivelv  hi-as'v  t  him.  l«-r--tonn  \\etted  n-  all  to  the 
>Ui,  |,i-!o|-,.  :uiv  -h.-lter  could  If  mad.'.  Two  I,)'  our  m.  n 
uaiid'i-.d,  and  oth.-r  \\\»  r--main«tl  l-.-hind  I"-!,  a-  otir  tra.-k 
\\a-  \\a-h--d  out  li\'  tin-  rain-.  Th>-  country  i-  a  -Ucce-vion  o! 
i-n-ifiiiou-  \'..i\.-,  all  covcn-d  \\ith  jtlli'jli1,  :iiid  ii"  tfac«-  of 
pa1  ii-  ;  •••  ••  "'.  •  i  >•  in  a  hol!o\\ ,  and  our  linn.:  \\  a-  not  heard  till 
thi-  niornin  _',  v.  h>  n  \v>'  a-.-.-n.  i-'d  a  In  i_dit  and  \\in-ali-\\i-nd. 

I   :uii  thaui.!  i '.    tii.i!    n>-  \\a-   1"-;,  f..r  a  man   mi,:hf   wander    a 

lo[i_'    tim--    l.'I'.r.-    !•  .p  'iiiiij-   a  \  ilia  --•.      >imo;i    L.-a\e    mr  a  little 


PAXfJKK    rxSKKN.  4'_>7 

more  of  his  meal  this  morning,  an<l  went  without  hini.-elf:  1 
took  mv  belt  up  three  holes  to  relieve  hunger.  \\'e  got  some 
wretched  wild  fruit  like  that  called  'jumbos'  in  India,  and  at 
middav  reached  the  village  of  Chufuuga.  Famine  here  too,  but 
some  men  hud  killed  an  elephant  and  came  to  sell  the  dried 
meat  :  it  was  high,  and  so  were  their  prices  ;  but  we  are  obliged 
to  give  our  best  to  escape  from  this  craving  hunger." 

Sitting  down  one  morning  near  a  tree  Dr.  Livingstone's 
head  was  just  OIK;  vurd  oil'  a  good-sized  cobra,  coiled  up  in  the 
sprouts  at  its  root,  but  it  was  benumbed  with  cold  :  a  verv  prettv 
little  puff-adder  lay  in  the  path,  ulso  benumbed  ;  it  is  seldom 
that  any  harm  is  done  by  these  reptiles  in  Africa,  although  it  is 
ditl'erent  in  India.  They  bought  up  all  the  food  to  be  had, 
but  it  did  not  sutliee  for  the  marches  they  expected  to  make  be- 
Ibre  getting  to  the  Zambesi,  where  food  was  said  to  be  abun- 
dant, and  they  were  therefore  again  obliged  to  travel  on  Sunday. 
u  Hut  although,"  savs  the  doctor,  "  we  had  pravers  before  Cart- 
ing, I  alwuvs  feel  that  I  am  not  doing  right :  it  lessens  the 
sense  of  obligation  in  the  minds  of  my  companions;  but  1  have 
no  choice."  They  went  along  a  rivulet  till  it  ended  in  a  smull 
lake,  Mapampa  or  Chimbwe,  about  five  miles  long,  and  one  and 
a  half  broad,  of  which  we  find  this  note: 

"  \\  e  had  to  cross  the  ( 'himbwe  at  its  eastern  end,  where  it 
is  fnllv  a  mile  wide.  The  guide  refused  to  show  another  and 
narrower  ford  up  the  stream,  which  emptied  into  it  from  tin- 
east;  and  I,  being  the  first  to  cross,  neglected  to  give  orders 
about  the  poor  little  do;;,  ('hitane.  The  water  was  waist  deep, 
the  bottom  soft  peaty  stuff  with  deep  holes  in  it.  and  the 
northern  side  infested  bv  leeches.  The  bovs  were,  like  mv-elf, 
all  too  much  engaged  with  preserving  their  balance  to  think 
of' the  spirited  little  beast^and  he  must  have  swam  till  he  -link. 
He  was  so  useful  in  keeping  all  the  country  cur-  off  our  huts; 
none  dare  to  approach  and  steal,  and  he  never  stole  him-elf. 
He  shared  the  staring  of  the  people  with  his  master;  then  in 
tin' march  he  took  charge  of'  the  whole  partv,  running  to  the 
front,  and  ai;um  to  the  rear,  to  see  that  all  was  ri^ht.  lie  was 
becoming  yellowish-red  in  color;  and.  poor  tiling,  peri-lied  in 
what  the  boys  all  call  Chitane's  water." 

Durinir   the    delavs   caused    bv  the   .severe   rains    the   doctor 


42S  A   i>i:i:Ai>rri.   !.«».>. 

\vorkitl  out  ilu-  longitude  "f  tin-  mountain  >tati>)n  said  to  he 
Mpini,  lui:  li<-  thought  it  Utter  to  name  it  ( 'liitutu  •'-,  as  la 
ruiild  not  ;_r.-t  the  name  fVoin  hi-  maundering  guide,  who  proba- 
b!y  di«l  not  know  it.  Lat.  11  !»'  "2"  S.  ;  long.  :\'l  1'  :',<>"  K. 

A Ititude  above  .-«-a  (barometer)  "j."i."i.",  feet. 

Altitude  above  ,-ea  'boiling  jx»int  i      .r».".S")  lift. 


Dill'.     ;*:»   feet. 

Destitution  continued  ;  there  was  nothing  but  lamiin-  and 
t'aniiiK-  jtrii-f-,  tin-  |»«-.i|>lr  living  on  inu.-lirooins  ami  lrav»s.  (  )f 
til--'-  iaii~iiri><)iiis  it  i-  inti n  -tin^  t,.  know  that  thrtv  art-  a  iinni- 
1).  r  ill'  -.(irt-.  'Hit  o|'  \\  h irh  tin-  jiciijili-  rhtdi-i'  live  or  >i\,  ri-jfi-tinj* 
th«'  other-.  Oni-  -jit-i-ir-i  Ix'c-oinc.s  as  lai'm1  a^  tin-  crown  n!  a 
man  -  hat  ;  it  i-  |nuv  \\hitf,  with  a  lilu-!i  <»f  hrown  in  thy 
innltl.1'  o:  ill.-  crown,  ami  i-  vi-rv  ^OIH!  nta-ti-«l  ;  it  i-  naiiut\ 
Mot.-nta;  a:.«.tin  r.  Muti-ta  ;  .'J«l.  l'»..-..-!\\  c  ;  Ith.  Nakalan-a;  -',ih, 
('hi-iin'iM-,  liilxilati-d,  ^ri-f-n  .nit-idr.  and  jiink  and  llt-~iiv  in-itlf. 

A!MIUI  tin-  timi-an  im-idciit  t»-<nrnd  which  \\;i-  n-ci-ivcd  l>v 
1  >r.  i,.\ •in_r-!o:n-  a-  |n-rliap-  \\\<-  i_ri'i-ati-t  uti.-forttitic  he  had  ever 
i-.\ jH-rienced.  Hi- own  \'<  r~i";i  <it  it  is  a>  follow.- : 

"A      ITUulf      I'eln-    t|,     -.1     \\t-     niai'ehed      Wllllcillt     ulie.        The      (WO 

\\ai\au,    \\iii     jii:iied     n-    at      Kande'-     village,    IH,W    d.-erted. 
'1'hev    had    IK  en    \i-rv    faithful    all    the    wav.    and    t«M,k    "Mir    part 

I!)      eS'el'V     i  a-e.          Knowing      the      lalILTUa_re      Well,      iheV      Were     e\- 

treinelv  ii-eiui,  and  nu  one  th')ii_rht  that  they  \\<ni!d  de-«-rt, 
ti.r  tii.'\-  \\.Te  1'ree  men  --their  nia>ter~  had  ln-i-n  kill.d  hv  the 
M. i/i'u  -anil  tin-  '•ireiim-tanee.  and  th-ir  iinil«inii  -.»>d  e..nduel, 
mad'  ii-  !ru-t  them  more  than  we  -hnijld  ha\e  done  anv  other.-; 
u  ho  li  id  I" 'ii  -lave-.  Hut  ihev  left  ii-  in  the  for. -t.  and  heavv 
rain  earn.-  on.  v.  hi.'h  o!  >!ii.  rat.-d  everv  v«--t  i^e  .if  t  h>  ir  fo"i-t.-|.-. 
'I"  mai.e  the  I"--  the  more  -jal  liirj,  t  h-  \  (..ok  \\hat  \\  <•  e..ultl 
it  a-t  -par>  the  inediciiie-lio\,  whieh  tlnv  \\oii.tl  "nl\  ;hr«i'.\ 
a'A.r,  a-  -<w«n  a-  th«  v  eame  to  .  \ainnie  their  l">o!\.  <  >ne  ot 
til.  -••  <!•-.  it.r-  'X'han^'d  hi-  load  that  ni'»rnin^  '>\ilh  a  l»iv 
e.all'd  liaraka,  \\iio  had  'harje  ..|  the  ni>  d  \<  I  lie-  l/o  \  ,  lieeau-c  he 
\-.  a-  -o  ear.  tul.  I  Ii ;  -  \\  a-  done  i  ,•  <  aii-<-  \\  it  h  I  h"  Hied  id  lie  eh.-t 
\\.  re  pa-  k-d  t;-."  !ar-.  .  L-th-  and  all  P.araka'-  .  loihin-  and 
(>'  ad-,  "f  \\lii'-h  h-  \'.  a-  \ .  r\  >  ar-  fnl.  1  ii-  NVaivau  al.-o  otlcnt] 


PISTKKSSINfS    HI'N(JKR.  .J-Jfj 

to  carry  this  burden  a  stage  to  help  Baraka,  while  ho  gave  hi* 
own  load,  in  which  (here  was  no  cloth,  in  exchange.  The 
forest  was  so  dense  and  high  there  was  no  chance  of  Dotting  a 
glimpse  of  the  fugitives,  who  took  all  the  dishes,  a  large  box  of 
powder,  the  flour  we  had  purchased  dearly  to  help  us  zis  far  as 
the  Zambesi,  the  tools,  two  guns,  and  a  cartridge-pouch  ;  but 
the  medicine-chest  was  the  sorest  lo.-s  of  all!  I  felt  as  if  I  had 
now  received  the  sentence  of  death,  like  poor  Bishop  Macken/ic." 

He  was  prepared  for  losses  and  all  manner  of  discourage- 
ments; hut  such  a  loss  as  this  cast  a  shadow  over  his  ordinarily 
buoyant  soul.  And  yet  he  did  not  murmur.  "  Everything  of 
this  kind,"  says  he,  "  happens  bv  the  permission  of  one  who 
watches  over  us  with  most  tender  care;  and  this  may  turn  out 
for  the  best,  by  taking  away  a  source  of  suspicion  among  more 
superstitious  charm-dreading  people  farther  north.  I  meant  it 
as  a  source  of  benefit  to  my  party  and  other  heathen." 

All  their  efforts  to  find  the  Waivau  were  in  vain.  We  can- 
not appreciate  the  feelings  of  one  so  far  away  from  friends,  so 
entirely  dependent  on  himself,  under  God,  in  an  hour  of  such 
misfortune.  Yet  he  found  it  in  his  heart  to  make  many  ex- 
cuses for  the  men  who  had  robbed  him  so  seriously.  The  loss 
must  be  endured. 

The  want  of  food  and  continuous  rains  greatly  hindered 
them,  but  they  were  now  drawing  near  the  Zambesi  ;  the 
streams  which  they  crossed  were  all  flowing  northwest  toward 
that  'jreat  river,  and  all  the  reports  were',  that  beyond  it,  in  the 
immediate  territory  of  the  paramount  chief,  there  was  plenty  of 
food.  This  hope  renewed  their  flagging  energies.  Livingstone 
was  not  thinking  of  nice  dishes,  but  real,  biting  hunger  was 
torturing  him.  This  was  partly  relieved  at  Moaba,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Movushi.  But  the  cloth — which  was  their  main 
dependence  as  etn  rency — was  of  little  value  here,  as  indeed  it 
was  in  all  the  upland  country,  where  the  bark  cloth  is  .-o  abun- 
dant. But  fortunately  there  wa-  a  demand  for  beads,  and  for- 
tunately, too,  thev  had  some  of  the-e.  It  may  be  interesting 
for  the  reader  to  know  something  about  this  important  item  of 
currency  all  through  Africa. 

u  With  a  few  exceptions  they  arc  all  manufactured  in  Venice. 
The  greatest  care  must  be  exercised,  or  the  traveller — ignorant 


4*0  (TKRF.NCY    <>F    AFRICA. 

of  the  prevailing  fashion  in  the  countrv  ho  is  alxiut  to  explore 
— find-  himself  with  an  accumulation  of  beads  of  no  inorv  value 
than  token*  would  U-  if  tendered  in  this  country  for  coin  of  the 
n-alin.  Tin-  Waiyati  prefer  exceedingly  Miiall  lx-ad*,  the  si/e 
of  mustard  seed,  and  of  varimi-  color-,  Imt  they  uui-t  IK-  opaque: 
amon^-t  them  ilnll  white  chalk  varieties,  railed  '  (.'atohokoln,'* 
at4--  valuable.  lx>i«l«s  lilack  an<l  j>ink,  named,  respectively 
'  Htihuhu '  and  '  St'kundereehe'  =  the  'dregs  of  Pomlx-.'  ( >ne 
r<  d  head,  of  vario.u<  sixes,  which  has  a  white  <vntre,  is  alwavs 
valuable  in  everv  part  of  Africa.  It  i-  called  'Samisami'  by 
the  Suahele,  '  ( 'hitakaraka'  by  the  Waiyati,  'Manga/i' 
'blood'  hv  tin-  Nvassa,  and  was  found  popular  even  amongst  the 
Manvuciua,  under  tin-  name  of'  Masokuntussi '  =  'bird's  eves.' 
\\  hiUt  sjH":ik5ng  of'thi-  di-tant  trilw,  it  i*  intorosting  to  <>l»rrve 
that  one  peculiar  IOIILT  head,  nt-ogniw*!  as  common  in  the  Man- 
vii' -ma  land,  i*  on!v  >-ent  to  the  we.-t  coa>t  of  Al'rii-:i.  and  n<  >;  ,- 
to  th'- ea-t.  (  )n  ('Iniina  j»iintin^  to  it  a-  a  -ort  found  at  the 
extreme  limit  explored  l>v  Livingstone,  it  was  at  once  .-ecu  that 
he  mu-t  have  t'»iich.-«l  that  part  of  Afriea  which  he^in-  t<>  l>e 
within  the  reaeli  of'  the  traders  in  the  Portuguese  settlements. 
'  Maehna  Kan^a'  -  'guinea  f'o\vl'-  eves,'  i-  another  popular 
varie'v  ;  and  the  '  Moimnpio'  -  '  new  heart,'  a  lar^e  pale  Mne 
head,  i-  a  favorite  am'>n-j-t  the  Wa!>i-a  ;  1'iit  l»y  f'ar  the  mo-t 
valnalile  of  all  i~  a  -mall  white  olilnni;  U-ad,  which,  when 
-!!-iin_',  li.dk-  like  the  joint*  of  the  cane  root,  from  which  it 
take-  it-  name,  '  Salani '  =  'cane.'  Su-i  -a\'*  that  one  pound 
v.ei/ht  of  thi -e  head*  would  Iniv  a  tu-k  of  ivorv,  at  the  -oiith 
•  M.l  ot'  T.ni'janvika. -o  l.i^  that  a  -trong  man  could  not  carrv 
it  m<  >re  than  two  hour-." 

At    la-f    the    hank-    of    the    XamKe-i    were    readied,   and    the 
,'  irv,  huii!_rrv  partv  took    1  od •_: i n '_r  in  a   tcmporarv  de-erted  \  il- 
!:i  ;•-.      Thi-  wa-    .lantiary  lMth.      Thev  were   detained    tin-   L'Tth 
!'V  ra-n- ;  that  dav   I)r.   I  ,i\'iir_r-t"He  wrote  in  hi-  journal: 

"  In  '  irci-j-iii'j  my  dre—  thi-  morning  I  wa*  frightened  at  my 

'•'.II    •  -Iliaeeit  loll.'* 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

FROM    LAKE   TO    LAKE. 

OliitapaiiL,'a's  Stockade  — An  Oflrrin^  Required — Audience  with  tho  Chief— 
Ceremony  of  Introduction— Chitnpiuitfa  as  lie  was— Some  Troublr— -I.yint: 
Interpreters — Aral)  Trailers —  Letters  Sent  Home— QuiK  ChitapaiiL'a': — The 
Chief's  I'artinu'  Oath— Appearance  <>f  Country— Troublesome  Cii'-t'iinx— Sus- 
picion <>f  the  Chief-- — A  Familiar  Trick —Eagerness  for  Trade— Moamha  :it 
Home— Chief  ami  .ludire -The  Moeinha— The  IIopo  —  Bows  aii'l  Arrows- 
Jllni'mt  —  Kasoiiso's  deception —  Assaulted  hv  Ants — Cotton  —  Lake  Lieiiiha  — 
Palm  Oil  — The  B:ilimi:u  —  Severe  Illness— Arabs— Cliitiinlw's  Villatrc--A 
Loii'_j  Delay — N'satna — The  P.auluiiLru  —  Industries — Cupping— <  'harms—  Dull 
Lite— Slave-Tradt — Little  Things— A  Larire  Spider— At  Hani— Reception  ;it 
Nsaina's— A  Kride  in  Style  — "  Tipo  Tip<>  " - -"  Kiimha  Kumha  "—//•'."'  — 
Desertion — Slavery  (Question  —  Ditferent  Motives  —  Arahs  <,n  the  March  —  Aral) 
Traders — A  Fantastic  Party — Potency  of  Sneers  in  Africa — Delays — Lakr 
Mocro  at  Last. 

ON"  the  ->lst  of  January  our  traveller  le<l  his  party  across  th'1 
I-iOpiri,  the  rivulet  which  waters  the  stnckadc-  of  Cliitapan^a. 
This  was  (juite  a  formidable-looking  structure.  I>esi«le>  a  triple 
stockade,  the  village  is  defended  l>y  a  deep,  broad  ditch,  and 
hed^t'  of  thorny  shrub. 

The  messengers  from  the^reat  chief  soon  approached  t<>  imjuire 
if  thi1  traveller  desired  an  audience,  and  instrnetin«r  him  that 
their  custom  required  every  one  to  take  something  '"  his  hand 
the  first  time  he  came  before  so  ^rcat  a  man  as  Chitapanpi. 
I'x'iiii;  tired  from  marching,  Livin<rstone  defi'rred  hi-  vi.-it  t<>  the 
chief  until  evening.  At  •")  P.M.  he  sent  nmice  of  his  coniinu". 
Passing  through  the  inner  stockade  and  then  on  t«>an  ennnn(ti;.- 
hut,  he  entered  the  presence  of  the  chief.  His  Maje-tv  \va- 
heated  on  the  tliree-lojjfred  stool,  which  is  one  of  the  peculiar 
institutions  of  the  countrv.  Xear  him  were  three  drummers, 
beating  furiously,  and  ten  or  more  men  with  odd-looking  rattles 
in  their  hands,  with  which  they  kept  time  to  the  drum.-,  while 
seated  and  standing  all  about  in  the  background  wen1  hundreds 
of  eager  subjects  who  gazed  with  deepest  interest  on  the  reception. 

431 


4.'>2  HK<  KITION    AT    I' 

A  notiivahle  feature  of  the  ceremony  was  the  regular  approach- 
ing ami  rwitlini;  <>f  tin-  rattler.-,  \vlio  -veined  to  j^ive  to  their  chief 
some  .-iHvial  reverence  liv  advancing  Ix-fort1  liiin  ami  holding 

• 

their  toy-looking  in-trnm< -nt>  <aiite  near  tlir  ground,  while  thw 
kept  uj)  -till  with  the  drummer-. 

('liitapan^a  w;i-  a  strongly-built  burly-looking  fellow,  with  a 
j»llv,  laughing  face.  Livingstone  was  seated  on  a  huge  tu.-k, 
ami  tin-  talk  ln-;_ran.  He  found  little  tlifliciilty  in  inti-n.-stin^ 
t!ie  ehief  in  tli'»>c  things  which  he  had  l«  tell,  and  wa>  treated 
with  a  n-pei't  and  (finliulity  which  inipivs-ed  him  verv  favor- 
aMv  with  him.  When  t!ic\-  hail  <^<>t  a  little  actjnaintcil,  th«» 
chief  walked  with  hi-  vi-it«'r  towanl  a  ^nnip  of  ei.\\-.  and  with 
a  tjrnerou-i  air  pointed  out  one  and  -aid,  *' That  is  vonr-." 

\' ;iri "ii-  circi mi -tances  ei. n-j lired  io  protract  the  -tav  of  Livin^- 
>to||,j  twentv  davs  at  tin-  village.  Though  ijuite  JavoraUly 
impre--i-<l  witli  ( 'hitajtan;ja,  thr  in-c<  --:tv  of  holding  all  his  inter- 
view- through  other-  ^a\'e  ri-e  to  >eri"tis  annovanccs.  He  was 
particularly  tronhled  and  vexed,  ai'ter  killing  the  e. >w  \\hi'-!i 
had  IM-CH  '_'i\''n  him,  \>v  the  chief's  demanding  a  blanket  \\>r  it. 
Thi-  \\a-  ni'-re  annovinj;  liecan-e  he  had  none  except  -ndi  a^ 
l»eloiiji,l  to  the  men  who  \\ere  \\iih  him.  'I  hi-  demand  wa« 
pr« — ml,  however,  and  it  at  len^ih  turned  <>ut  that  one  of  tlu* 
.\a--ick  lad-,  who  had  acted  a-  interpreter  at  their  interview-, 
had  not  -tat-'d  the  conversation  correct !v.  'I'lie  chief  had  uri\'('ii 
the  ru'.v,  '  \j"'-tiii;_'  a  lilanket,  1'iit  the  ]..,%•  had  -aid  to  Livin-j- 
-toiie,  "  hi'  -av-  yon  mav  ^ive  him  anv  little  thin^  von  |i!ea-e." 
Thi-  prc-nmptnoii-  intcrfen -nee  of  int-  rj-rder-  i-  one  of  the  nio~t 
-erimi-  annovaiice-  of  travellini;  in  anv  <-onntrv;  partienlarlv  i- 
it  -'i  in  Alnc;i:  not  onlv  I  >r.  Living-loin'  hut  manv  t ravel  1<  M 
:ii- re  ha\e  1  ).-.-n  '_Teatlv  troiihled  li\-  it. 

At  t!ii-  village  Living-tone  nn-f  a  -mall  partv  of  Mack  Ara'> 
t  i\<  trader-  ir'.tn  Ua^anioio,  on  t!i.'  ena-t  ii'-ar  Xan/ihar,  1'V 
•Ahoiii  !,.  \\a-  alii-  to  -nd  a  |ia--l.i-t  of  letter-,  uhieh  ivaeh.-d 
1  .:i_r '.and  ii-  ! v  and  t^n-atlv  relic VM!  t he  pn1  >! !••  miml  conci  riinii; 
tlie  ^r.  .it  traveller,  \\hohad  l»e.  n  reported  d--ad  1>\-  Mn-aatt-r 
he  jjad  -o  hear?!i--lv  de-ert'-d  him  n- ar  \\a--a.  Tlie-.-  Ara!> 
trad'  r-  h  id  i-oni'-  into  t  he  count  rv  hv  a  innch  nearer  route  :  a 
r  ••!»'•  t'  "i  ".!,;  eh  -A  i-  I'M!!  of  vil  !a''e.  and  pe.  .pie  v,  ho  h  a  ve  |i]>  nt  v 
t'f^'-a:-.  I'.-,  th' -e  men  I  »•-.  I, ivin^-toiH- ordered  another  supply 


THE    PARTING    OATH.  -l.Ti 

of  cloth  and  l>eads  and  a  small  quantity  of  coffee  and  Migar, 
candles,  preserved  meats,  etc.,  with  some  medicines,  to  be  sent 
to  Ijiji. 

Little  else  occurred  during  the  stay  with  Chitapanga  worthy 
of  special  mention.  The  fre<juent  returns  of  illness  were  nothing 
uncommon  now.  It  was  sad  indeed  to  he  so  great  a  sutlerer, 
and  deprived  of  the  relief  which  he  could  have  found  in  lii> 
medicine  l>o.\.  We  cannot  imagine  a  more  painful  experience 
than  the  consciousness  of  failing  health  in  a  far  a\vav  heathen 
land  without  a  single  remedy  at  hand. 

At  length,  after  repeated  misunderstandings  and  compromises 
with  Chitapanga,  all  growing  out  of  the  unpardonable  inter- 
ference of  the  boys,  who  presumed  to  interpret  the  conversation 
according  to  their  ideas  of  what  it  was  best  should  be  said,  Dr. 
Livingstone  prepared  to  leave  on  the  20th  of  February,  1807. 
lie  says : 

"February  20, 1SG7. — I  told  the  chief  before  starting  that  my 
heart  was  sore  because  he  was  not  sending  me  away  so  cordiallv 
as  I  liked.  lie  at  once  ordered  men  to  start  with  us,  and  gave 
me  a  brass  knife  with  ivorv  sheath,  which  he  had  long  worn  as 
a  memorial.  He  explained  that  we  ought  to  go  north  as,  if  we 
made  easting,  we  should  ultimately  be  obliged  to  turn  west,  and 
all  our  cloth  would  be  expended  ere  we  reached  the  Lake  Tan- 
ganyika; he  took  a  piece  of  clay  oil*  the  ground  and  rubbed  it 
on  his  tongue  as  an  oath  that  what  he  said  was  true,  and  came 
along  with  us  to  see  that  all  was  right;  and  ^o  we  parted." 

His  route  lav  still  almost  due  north  through  the  countries  of 
'lie  Babema  and  the  Balungu.  The  whole  countrv,  he  savs,  can 
be  no  better  described  than  as  one  vast  forest.  "  Rocks  abound 
of  the  r-amc-  domolite  kind  as  on  the  ridge  farther  south,  between 
the  Loangwa  and  Zambesi,  covered,  like  them,  with  lichens, 
orchids,  euphorbias,  and  upland  vegetation,  hard-leaved  acacias, 
rhododendrons,  masukos.  The  gum-copal  tree,  when  perforated 
by  a  grub,  exudes  from  branches  no  thicker  than  one's  arm, 
masses  of  soft,  gluey-looking  gum,  brownish  yellow,  and  light 
gray,  as  much  as  would  fill  a  soup-plate.  It  seems  to  yield  this 
gum  only  in  the  rainy  .-eason,  and  now  all  the  tret's  arc  full  of 
sap  and  gum." 

This  march  was  inaugurated  in  unmistakable  fashion.     The 


4:>f)  Tin:  KKAI.  DIFFICULTY. 

night  of  February  lioth  was  overcast  with  black  clouds,  and 
heavy  thunder  rolled  alniut  them  ami  drenching  rain  beat 
through  the  huts  and  Hooded  the  roads.  Here,  a-  el-cwhere  in 
Africa,  there  an-  eu-tom-  which  greatly  hinder  and  annoy  the 
traveller.  Tin-  people  are  suspicious  and  ignorant,  and  it  is 
ntHfssury,  particularly  when  one  i-  almost  entirelv  unprotected, 
as  Dr.  Living-tone  now  wa-,  I"  be  exceedingly  careful.  The, 
delays  attending  the  ibrma!  civilities  which  every  petty  chief 
either  demands  -hall  be  shown  him  or  de-ire-  to  -how  the 
-tranter  are  plea-ant  enough  in  their  wav,  but  are  exceedingly 
vexation-  when  a  man  i-  sick  and  wearv  and  anxion-lv  pressing 
ibr  a  certain  place.  It  wa-  almn-t  irnjM>ssible  to  impn--  on  the 
chief-,  that  no  -elii-h  purpo-e-  were  to  be  -nb-erved  by  the  journey 
through  their  eountrv.  Thi-  wa-  reallv  the  great  ditlicultv  :  thev 
generally  held  to  the  conviction  that  a  man  who  had  been  at 
the  trouble  of  [M-netrating  their  eountrv  mii-t  expect  -oiue  great 
iTiin-,  and,  naturallv  enough,  thought  thev  oii'jht  to  lie  benefited 
al-o  bv  hi.-  prc-en«-e.  It  •-  indettl  "almo-t  !"•>  ridiculous  to  he- 
li.-vc,"  but  ~o  it  \\:i-.  \\ln-n  IJvingstonc  a— mvd  the  "threat 
ehi«  t',"  ( 'hitapanga,  that  th--  public  benefit  onlv  \\a-  -on^ht  bv 
hi-  joiiruev,  that  «li>tingui-hi-d  gentleman,  with  the  m»-t  know- 
ing lanirh,  pulled  domi  the  niiderlid  of  the  riirht  eve.  after  the 
ni"-t  approveil  '_re-ture  of  our  sehool-Ixivs  when  thev  -av,  "  I  )<> 
voii  -e<-  anvthing  gri-i'ii  ?  "  It  wa-  ju~t  -o  with  hi-  neighlmrs. 
M":iii!b:\.  \\ho-i-  village  wa-  on  the  ].  ft  baidv  of  tin-  Meren-je, 
had  the  -a me  difficulty.  lie  \\a-  i_reneron-  ami  Lr("Kl-l"imore<|  ; 
\\:i-.  like  ( 'hitapaii'ja.  verv  much  int'Totcd  in  the  !>....  1<^  and 
in-trnment.-  that  w<  re  -hown  him,  and  quite  enrioii<  about  the 
wor-hip  of  the  Kngli-hrnan,  but  could  hardlv  be  i-.  eoticili-d  to 
hi-  d' e]inii]'_r  to  hnv  ivoj-v  or  -lavi--.  "  He  wa-  \'ef\  anxious," 
-a- .•-  LiviirjMone,  "jo  know  whv  we  wen-  p>in:_r  to  Tanuanvika  ; 
'.•r  \\h-it  •Aeeaine;  -,\  hat  \\  e  -hoii  !•  1  bnv  there;  and  it'  I  had  any 
relat  ioii-  i  IP -re.  He  tin -n  -ho  wed  me  -•  une  fin.'  lar-j-e  t  n-k-.  ei:dit 
:'.-.  t  -j\  in  l.-ii-_'th.  '  What  do  voti  wi-h  to  biiv.  it'  not  -lave-  or 
ivorv  V  '  I  r.  p!i-  d.  that  the  oidv  thin g  !  had  *••<  u  \\  ort  h  buying 
•A:I-  i  !l:.i-  f.it  -  hi-  f  like  him.  a-  a  -pecimeti,  and  a  woman 
!'.  .  din-  him,  a-  he  had.  v.  ith  l«-«-r.  Ib-  wa-  tiekled  at  thi-  ;  and 
.-aid  that  -A\f  \\  we  rea- h- d  "iir  coimtrv  I  mu-t  j>ut  line  clot  In* 


RK.MAUKABLE   SALUTATION.  437 

The  chiefs  in  this  section  were  found  to  l>e  much  respected  by 
their  subjects,  though  they  do  not  enforce  their  obedience  a.s 
positively  perhaps  its  would  accord  with  our  ideas  of  govern- 
ment. Livingstone  witnessed  a  specimen  of  litigation  in  which 
the  parties  argued  their  case  before  Moamha.  Hi.-  Majesty 
oecupie<l  the  post  of  honor  with  great  gravitv.  One  old  man 
argued  his  case  an  hour,  and  was  heard  with  great  patience. 
Alter  they  had  ended  their  speeches,  the  chief  delivered  his  de- 
cision in  five  minutes.  There  were  features  of  this  proceeding 
which  would  doubtless  disturb  the  solemnity  of  an  American 
tribunnl.  For  instance,  when  our  attorney  would  say,  "  may  it 
please  vour  honor,"  the  JJabema  orator  turns  his  back  on  the 
judg*?  and  stretching  himself  on  the  ground  claps  his  hands 
loudly.  This  was  indeed  a  common  modeof  salutation,  remind- 
ing *he  reader  perhaps  of  that  noticed  among  the  Batoka.  The 
Mrhemba  displayed  much  more  independence  than  the  more 
southern  tribes.  They  all  go  equipped  with  their  bows  and 
arrows  and  are  decidedly  warlike.  And  the  trophic*  from  the 
Ma/itu  which  are  frequently  seen  hanging  about  their  villages 
indicate  very  clearly  that  those  bold  depredators  do  not  find  such 
easy  work  as  in  other  regions. 

They  are  industrious  too,  and  are  we'll  supplied  with  the  com- 
forts of  African  life.  Much  tobacco  was  noticed  growing  about 
the  villages,  and  great  quantities  of  splendid  copper  wire  is 
manufactured.  All  sorts  of  animals  abound  in  their  country, 
but  thev  were  exceedingly  wild,  as  they  are  generally  where 
bow<  and  arrows  are  in  common  use.  Here  too,  besides  this 
effectual  weapon,  the  hopo  wages  war  on  the  game,  and  everv- 
thing  is  taught  the  fear  of  man. 

After  parting  with  Moamba,  Livingstone  continued  his  north- 
ward journev,  and  ascended  the  Losauswa  ridge,  which  is  prob- 
ablv  the  watershed  between  the  streams  flowing  southward  to 
the  Zambesi  and  those  flowing  north  toward.-  Tanganyika; 
ami,  without  special  incident,  crossed  a  countrv  watered  bv 
various  rivers  and  dotted  with  stockaded  villages,  where  numerous 
herds  of  goats  were  careful Iv  attended  bv  bovs,  and  the  usual 
gardens  and  patches  were  to  be  seen  everywhere,  almost  lost  in 
the  prevailing  forest.  Ilis  health  was  sadly  affected  by  the  toil 
and  unrelished  diet.  On  the  12th  of  March  he  reached  the  vil- 


433  <-»N  CJODS  c;  HOUND. 

lage  of  C 'hi we,  among  tin-  Balungu.  Speaking  of  his  condition, 
he  says:  "  I  have  In-en  ill  •  if  fever  ever  si  nee  we  left  Moamha's; 
every  step  I  take  jars  in  the  chest,  ami  I  am  very  weak  ;  I  can 
scarcely  keep  up  t!i>'  mareh,  though  formerly  I  was  always  first, 
an<l  had  to  hold  in  mv  pa<v  not  to  leave  the  people  altogether. 
I  have  a  constant  -inging  in  the  ears,  ami  can  scarcely  hear  the 
hmd  tick  of  the  chronometers.  Tlie  apjK-tite  is  good,  hut  we 
have  no  projn-r  food,  chiefly  maere  meal  or  beans,  or  maj>emba 
or  ground-nuts,  rarely  a  fowl." 

This  village,    like  them    all,   was   surrounded   hv   a   stroii" 

* 

stockade,  and  on  the  hank-  of  a  stream.  The  chiefs  were 
generally  anxious  that  he  -lunild  come  into  their  villages  and 
iM-cnpy  a  hnt  ;  but  this  wa-  found  exceedingly  unpleasant  ; 
within  tin-  -tiH-kadc  the  people  seemed  to  think  the  stranger  on 
their  ground,  ami  considered  themselves  at  liU-rtv  to  l>e  rather 
over-familiar;  they  \\-onld  croud  about  the  door  of  his  hut  and 
it  was  ab-olntely  impossible  to  have  a  moment  of  ijuiet  or  privacv. 
I><-side-  thi-  impudence,  these  huts  were  frequent Iv  the  abode  of 
certain  detcstal)le  creature-  who  never  vacate  fur  a  visitor,  but 
s.'i/e  the  occasion  of  hi-  pre<eii<-e  lor  a  regular  carnival.  Living- 
stone had  a  natural  weakness  a^ain-t  In-in^  eaten  bv  bu^s,  and 
LT'-nerallv  in-i-ti-d  on  erecting  hi-  own  h;it  or  pitching  his  tent 

•  I 

mi  '• '!'"!'-  groinid  "  outside.  There  he  wa-  considereil  as  en- 
tir-'lv  indcjM-nd'-nt,  and  e^-.jjH-d  the  jirving  «  \'cs  <.f  the  people 
and  tin-  midnight  d"pred:ition-  of  tin-  bn.;-. 

.\n)on'_r  '!;••  prominent  jM-ciiliaritics  bv  which  the  Balungu  are 
di-riiiL'ui-h.-d  were  t h HIM ir  four  little  knob-  mi  the  temples,  with 

wlii.'h     tll-V    -'.ll_'!it     to     impfoVe     <>;i     nature,    \\hile    the     lobe-    of 

i-t'-nded  bv  a  j>ie<-e  of  v, .  .•  id  ornamented  with 
-  o«'  b  ad-  \\r|-.-  -!i'.  tdn-d  acf..->  the  f  .rdiead 
iij»  l!i"  hair.  Living-turn-  did  not  pan-e  I.IM^  to  enjoy 
taliry  or  -rudy  tin-  di-tinctioii-  of  tlp-c  trib.--  ;  he  \\a- 
>•!••!;,  rind  ;.r.--«-d  on  !-r  t!i"  villa-.-  of  Ka-on-o  and  the  Lake 
L''-t!iba.  }•  wa-.  i-vidi-nf  that  he  \\a-  on  th*-  \\at' f-h'd,  but  th" 
-tr--am-  ^ 'imi- I  to  !  •  running  evi-ry  wav,  and  t!i"  nati\'e-  were 
uvejly  ign-irar.t  ••''  : !  •  L'.'.  ijraphv  of  th-'  c.iiintrv.  In  oth'-r 
time-,  '.\!HM  til-  •'••  -d  ".:>.-  bounding  fr<<!v  thr.  u^li  hi-  v.  in-, 
h"  •,'.'. ii  lil  h-iv«  I"  •  n  'hnni'd  bv  tin-  b«-au:v  ot'  th''  IIUIIH  !'•  «Ui 
v:il  ley «  which  h-  .;.,--.  d  in  rapid  >ueii?v%ifin,  \\  it  h  th'  ir  innumer- 


A    MIDNIGHT    KN<  Or.NTER.  4'.>,\) 

able  streams,  where  splendid  trees  were  waving  their  Ixmghs 
above  the  elegant  green  sward;  but  lit1  was  parched  with  liver 
and  eouhl  only  drag  himself  along.  It  is  worth  remembering, 
however,  that  he  notiecd  that  nearly  all  the  valleys  he  en^.-ed 
inclined  to  the  Ijoi'u,  whieh  receives  their  tributaries  Ibr  the 
lake. 

On  the  2()th  of  March  he  entered  the  village  of  Ka.-on.so, 
situated  in  a  lovely  valley  at  the  confluence  of  two  streams. 
This  chief  received  him  very  cordially,  and  stood  a  long  while 
shaking  his  hand.  Kasonso  gave  him  a  grand  reception,  but 
another  experience  which  made  perhaps  a  more  lasting  reception 
awaited  him  in  the  hut  where  he  sought  repose.  The  reader 
has  not  forgotten  thea/i/4  which  assaulted  the  doctor  in  Angola: 
he  may  imagine  the  consternation  when  about  midnight  he  was 
aroused  bv  the  unconscionable  ravages  of  their  counterparts 
here  in  the  town  of  Kasonso.  The  sufferer,  who  ought  to  l>e 
competent  to  tell  the  story,  declares  it  impossible  to  describe  the 
attack.  lie  wakened  covered  with  them  ;  his  hair  was  full  of 
them  ;  one  by  one  thev  cut  into  the  hY.-h,  and  the  more  thev 
were  disturbed  the  more  vicious  became  their  biting;  he  tied 
from  the  hut,  but  in  vain  :  thev  were  everywhere,  they  had  him 
from  head  to  foot,  and  were  resolved  on  taking  their  own  time. 

Near  the  lake  there  was  found  large  cotton-bushes  of  the 
South  American  kind.  The  people  were  clothed  in  skins  of 
gouts  and  wild  animals,  but  the  patterns  were  more  scant,  if 
possible,  than  in  other  sections  ;  the  kilts  of  the  women  were 
especially  diminutive.  At  least  one  object  of  his  desire  was  now 
about  attained:  "On  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  April,"  >avs 
he,  "  we  went  along  a  low  ridge  of  hills  at  its  lowe.-t  part,  and 
soon  after  pushing  the  summit  the  blue  water  loomed  through 
the  trees.  I  was  detained,  but  soon  heard  the  boys  tiring  their 
mu-kets  on  reaching  the  edge  of  the  ridge,  which  allowed  an 
undisturbed  view." 

At  last  he  had  readied  the  southeastern  end  of  Liembu,  or 
Tanganyika.  Thev  had  still  to  descend  two  thousand  tiet  before 
reaching  the  level  of  the  lake.  It  seemed  to  l>e  about  eighteen  or 
twenty  miles  broad,  and  we  could  -ee  about  thirtv  mile-  up  to 
the  north.  Four  considerable  rivers  How  into  the  space  b.-: on- 
us. The  nearly  perpendicular  ridge  of  about  two  thoii.-und  teet 


440  LAKK    UKMIIA. 

extends  with  break-*  all  around,  and  there,  embosomed  in  tree- 
covered  rocks,  iv|x>se>  tile  lake  jH-aeefully  in  the  huge  cup-:?ha|>ed 
cavity. 

''  I  never  .-aw,"  continues  the  great  traveller,  who  had  looked 
on  .-o  many  lovely  .-eenes,  "anything  so  still  aiul  jK-aceful  as  it 
lies  all  the  morning.  Alxuit  noon  a  gentle  breeze  springs  up, 
and  ui Uses  the  waves  to  assume  a  blui.-h  tinge.  S'Veral  rocky 
islands  ri.-e  in  the  eastern  end,  which  are  inhabited  bv  li.-her- 
men,  who  capture  abundance  of  line  large  lish,  of  which  thev 
enumerate  about  twenty-four  spix-ies.  In  the  north  it  .-ecms  to 
narrow  into  a  gateway,  but  the  people  are  mi.-erably  deficient 
in  geographical  knowledge,  and  can  tell  us  nothing  about  it. 
'J'hi-y  .-u.-pect  u-,  and  we  cannot  get  information,  or  indeed  much 
of  anything  el.-c.  I  feel  deeply  thankful  at  having  got  .-o  far. 
I  am  exit-lively  weak — cannot  walk  without  tottering,  and 
have  con-tant  -inging  in  the  head,  but  the  Highe.-t  will  leail  me 
farther.''  And  after  being  two  week.-  bv  it  he  writes  again  : 
'  '1  hi.-  lake  still  appears  as  one  of  surp;i»ing  loveliness.  Its 
peaeefulne>s  i>  remarkaule,  though  at  time-  it  is -aid  to  be  la-hed 
up  by  -torm.-.  It  lie-  in  a  deep  basin  who.-e  .-ide-  are  luailv 
perpendicular,  but  covered  well  with  tree-  ;  tin-  rocks  which 
appear  an-  bright  red  argillaceous  ,-ehi-t  ;  thr  tree-  at  present 
ail  given:  down  -oine  oi  thoe  rock.-  come  beautiful  cascades, 
and  bufValoes,  elephants,  and  antelopes  wander  and  gra/.e  on  the 
more  level  .-pot.-,  while  lions  roar  by  night.  The  level  place 
below  is  not  two  mile*  from  the  perpendicular." 

Si<-k  a.-  he  ua-  he  could  not  be  .-ati.-lied  with  onlv  the  general 
knowledge,  a-  we  sn-  bv  the  following,  extracted  al-o  from  his 
"  L.t-t  .Journal  :  ''  "  Latitude  of  the  -JMI(  we  toiiche<l  at  fir-t,  iM 
April,  l-s'JT  —  Lat.  «  -KJ'  ">1"S.,  long.  .'Jl '  .r,7" ;  but  I  "iilv 
worke<l  out  • aiul  my  head  is  out  of  order)  one  set  of  observation-. 
Il-i^ii!  above  level  of  (!ie>ea  over  two  thou-aiid  eight  hundntl 
!••!•!,  !iy  l.oihn^-poiiit  tin •rmonieter-  and  barometer." 

It    limy  !.«•   notieeil   that   the  figure- of  I  >r.  Livingstone  diller 

Wltii    th"-'     of   Speke,    \\lio   lua.le   tlli-    lake  eighlerli    Illlllilred     feet 

.i!.o\«-  th«-  I'-ve!  ,,!'  ihc  -ea.     The  d«K'tor  explained  to  Mr.  Stanley 

that    IK    wa-   -ati-fied    that    Sjteke  wrote  eighteen    liuiitlnil   onlv 

!>y  mi-take  tiu-»i!_'li  the  habit  of  putting  A.  \>.  1  M  M  i.      He  made 

•  \amniat ,    km  >:\  in_'   Speke'-   ob-ervation,   an<l    ll.iind    tli<' 


THE    LAKE    PEOPLE.  44 | 

real  height  above  the  .sea  to  be,  as  In;  puts  it,  two  thousand  eight 
hundred  f(ft. 

Tin-  little  village  at  which  he  first  touched  the  lake  was  sur- 
rounded l>v  real  west  coast  palm-oil  trees,  requiring  two  men 
to  carrv  a  bunch  of  ripe  fruit.  Notwithstanding  great  weakness, 
the  unyielding  man  spent  the  time  as  diligently  as  possibU;  exam- 
ining the  region.  The  people  called  themselves  Balungu,  but 
they  had  not  the  bold  independent  bearing  of  those  of  that 
name  among  whom  Livingstone  had  so  latelv  passed.  And 
their  numbers  had  been  sadly  reduced  by  the  Ma/.itu,  who  are 
constantly  carrying  oil'  their  women  and  children.  They  seem 
themselves,  too,  to  have  caught  the  slaving  spirit,  and  to  have 
come  to  admire  their  destroyers.  That  is  surelv  the  deepest  de-- 
gradation, the  most  absolute  and  irredeemable  slavery,  out  of 
which  a  man  gazes  with  admiration  on  the  power  which  op- 
presses him,  and  wears  with  pride  the  chain  which  binds  him. 
God  save  a  fallen  people  from  the  grace  of  a  contentment  which 
dispenses  with  hope;  from  a  submission  which  kisses  the  yoke, 
while  it  forgets  the  galling.  "As  a  people,"  says  Livingstone, 
" they  are  all  excessively  polite.  The  clapping  of  hands  on 
meeting  is  something  excessive,  and  then  the  string  of  saluta- 
tions that  accompany  it  would  please  the  most  fastidious  French- 
man. It  implies  real  politeness,  for  in  marching  with  them 
thev  alwavs  remove  branches  out  of  the  path,  and  indicate 
stones  or  stumps  in  it  carefully  to  a  stranger,  yet  we  cannot  pre- 
vail on  them  to  lend  carriers  to  examine  the  lake,  or  to  .-ell 
goats,  of  which,  however,  they  have  verv  lew,  and  all  on  one 
island." 

It  is  mentioned  that  weeds  were  observed  floating  northwards 
on  the  lake.  Mention  is  also  made  of  various  rivers,  flowing 
northeast  and  northwest,  entering  the  southern  part  of  the 
lake.  The  Lonzua,  the  Kowe,  the  Kapala,  the  Lua/.e.  and  the 
Kalambwe,  flow  into  it  near  the  east  end.  and  the  Lovu,  or 
Lofubu,  or  Lofu,  from  the  south we.-t.  The  doctor  ivu-<med 
that  there  must  bean  exit  somewhere  for  such  volumes  of' water. 

AVe  need  not  follow  the  curious  traveller  up  and  d<>\vn  the 
steep  mountain  sides  as  he  wandered  about  the  shores  of  the 
lake;  his  journal  for  these  days  supplies  little  mure  than  the 
names  of  the  villages  which  he  passed. 


|.J2  THE   SKY    DAKKENS. 

He  (lid  not  attempt  to  explore  this  region  very  extensively  at 
this  time,  knowing  that  he  would,  if  spared  to  reach  I'jiji.  IK; 
again  <>n  it-  shores,  and  indeed  on  its  In-autiful  surfatv.  He 
was  suflering  very  severely  all  the  time;  twi<v  he  wa-  sci/.cd 
with  mo-t  distressing  (it...  <>f  insensibility,  in  which  he  wa-  en- 
tirely helpless.  <  );i  one  of  the-e  occa-ion-  he  savs  :  "  I  found 
myself  floundering  outside  my  hut  and  unable  to  get  in;  I  tried 
to  lift  my-elf  from  my  back  by  laying  hold  of  two  po-t-  at  the 
entrance,  but  when  I  got  nearly  upright  I  let  them  <jn,  and  fell 
back  heavily  on  mv  head  on  a  box.  The  boy-  had  seen  the 
wretched  state  I  wa-  in,  and  hnn^  a  blanket  at  the  entrance  of 
the  hut,  that  no  -tranter  mi_rht  see  mv  helplessness  ;  some  hours 

ehlp-ed   before    I   collld   reeogni/e  where   I    was." 

On  the  -jnth  of  May,  lsi;7,  we  find  him  at  Cliitimba's 
village,  about  thirty  mile-  southwest  fpun  the  souther-tern 
-hop-  of  t!ie  lake,  with  hi-  In  art  -i-t  "ii  reaching  Lake  Mi>ero. 
He  had  come  to  this  village  particularly  hccati-e  it  \\a-  at 
pp -cut  the  head-Ojiiarter-  of  a  lar_rc  part  v  of  Arab.-.  \\ho  In-  had 
heard  were  in  a  di-pnte  with  the  powerful  chief  ruling  the  wide 
e\pan-e  of  country  which  mn-t  !*•  cp»--.-d  between  the  Lake- 
Li-  inlia  and  M"epi.  The  n<-w<  of  tin-  diilicultv  had  weighed 
con-iderably  to  check  hi-  advance-  down  the  Ljr-tnha,  for  it 
would  certainly  have  been  exceedingly  un-afe  lor  him  to  have 
attempted  a  pa--a^e  tliroiigh  the  territory  of  N-ama  under  the 
eip-iim-taiiee-.  The  rumor  \\a-,  that  N-ama'-  ->n  \\a-  killing 
all  the  Arab-  he  could  find,  in  n  \eii_'e  \\,\-  -onie  wron-j  that 
had  be.n  done  to  hi-  father'-  people  bv  them. 

The  Arab-  were  found  occupying  an  important  portion  of  the 
-tockade.l  \il!aLr(1,  and  \\heu  I  >r.  Li\  iii'_r-'' "ie  arri\id  he  \\a- 
j^di'elv  -lioun  to  a  'ar-je  -hed  where  tln\-  wcp-  in  the  habit  of 
m-etiiiL.'.  The  principal  man  of  tin  partv  \\a-  llanne-  \\'o,|im 
Tajli.  lie  \va-  aei-oinpailied  bv  Syclebili  Alleltlli  Man-up-. 

Til-    .       U  •  I'e     eoliU'cteil     \\illl     one    of    the     Ill'i-t      illtl  lie!  it  Kll      native 
|lieP"Hltl!<     holl-«>    III    X.ali/lbar. 

\\  iii  n  tie-  doctor  had  explained  u  hence  he  had  ci  .rue  he  -bowed 
t  lie  ]I-:T.  r  '\ ! i  I'ii  had  be.  n  fnrni-hed  him  \>\  t  In-  -u :  tan  at  /.an/i- 

I  iar.        I  Ie  '.'.   i-   !  ;••  ate-l    V,  l!  li    ^1  ea'    kind  lie--.        Halliee-.   pfe-i  llteil  a 

-i,.!?    and  a  ijUantif.    »'    fl'iiir,  and    -in  h   other  cotnm.  >dit  ie-  a-    lie 

•--eil,  but    ;!  «a-   ne\t   to  impo--ible  to  -.t  at   the  tniiii   about 


GOOD    PICK  I  NO.  413 

the  difficulty.  There  were  various  versions  of  the  matter,  but 
one  tiling  was  certain  :  there  had  been  a  disturbance  at  the  vil- 
lage of  Nsama,  between  the  people  of  that  chief  and  the  Arabs, 
and  several  on  each  side  had  been  killed,  and  all  was  now  eon- 
fusion.  Xsama  had  fled  from  his  village,  leaving  the  Arabs  in 
possession, and  they  had  been  plundering  and  burning  all  the  sur- 
rounding villages,  while  Chitimba  had  sent  for  the  party  quar- 
tered here  to  come  to  him.  An  hour  or  two  after  Livingstone 
and  his  party  arrived  at  the  village  a  body  of  men  arrived  from 
Kasonso,  with  the  intention  of  proceeding  into  the  country  of 
Xsama,  if  possible  to  take  that  chief  prisoner  on  the  charge 
that  he  "  had  broken  the  public  law  bv  attacking  people  who 
brought  merchandise  into  the  country,"  a  remark  which  hints 
of  something  that  seems  like  international  law  among  these 
barbarous  tribes. 

It  was  elear  that  there  could  l>e  nothing  else  but  a  long  delay 
now.  Four  weary  months  he  lay  here  waiting  on  the  tedious 
negotiations  betweon  these  two  parties,  which  was  a  most 
remarkable  succession  of  delays,  almost  every  day  seeming  to 
promise  an  immediate  settlement.  But  the  great  difficulty  was 
the  want  of  faith  in  Xsama,  who  it  was  believed  talked  peace- 
ably only  to  gain  time  and  get  advantage  of  his  adversaries. 
lie  had  been  the  Napoleon  of  the  country,  and  had  held  his 
neighbor  chieftains  in  fear.  They  now  seemed  glad  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  his  overthrow,  or  discomfiture,  to  ravage  his  borders, 
and  the  Arabs  too  were  not  over  anxious  to  give  up  immedi- 
ately such  good  picking  as  his  land  afforded.  So  it  is  not  im- 
probable that  while  Nsama's  warlike  propensities  were  in  the 
way  of  peace,  the  plundering  propensities  of  his  enemies  aided 
in  keeping  up  the  disturbance.  Meantime  Dr.  Livingstone  was 
satisfied  that  it  was  decidedly  best  for  him  to  wait,  rather  than 
either  give  up  seeing  Lake  Moero,  or  run  such  serious  risk  as  it 
must  have  been  to  attempt  to  go  there  under  the  circumstances. 

The  village  of  Chitimba  is  one  of  a  number  of  prominent 
villages,  whose  chiefs  divide  the  dominion  of  the  district  known 
among  the  Arabs  as  t'rungn,  this  being  the  name  ^iven  to 
the  region  surrounding  Lake  Liemba,  or  the  foot  of  Lake 
Tanganyika.  The  whole  region  is  mountainous,  and  many 
exceeding! v  tortuous  rivers  water  its  beautiful  vallcv,  most 


441  THE    BAULUXGC. 

of  them  finding  their  way  ultimately  into  the  lake.  The 
calculations  of  Dr.  Livingstone  fixed  the  village  in  long.  30° 
1'J'  K.,  la'.  <S"  57'  oo"  S.  Of  the  people  the  dot-tor  says: 

"The  Baulungu  men  are  in  general  tall  and  well  formed; 
thev  u-c  bows  over  ,-ix  feet  in  length,  and  but  little  Ix-nt.  The 
faeial  angle  is  as  <jood  in  most  eases  a-  in  Ktiro|>ean.s,  and  thev 
have  (vrtainly  as  little  of  the  '  lark-heel  '  as  the  white-;.  One 
or  two  of  the  under  front  teeth  are  generally  knocked  out  in 
women,  and  aUo  in  itu-n. 

"  ( 'lo-e  observation  of  them  makes  me  believe  them  to  \>c  cx- 
tremelv  polite.  The  mo  !»•  of  .-alutation  among  relatives  is  to 
place  the  hands  round  each  other's  eliest.s  kneeling ;  they  then 
clap  their  hands  clo>e  to  the  ground.  Some  more  abject  indi- 
vidual- kiss  the  .-oil  before  a  chief;  the  generality  kneel  only, 
with  the  tore-arm-  elo-e  to  the  ground,  and  the  head  bowed 
down  to  them,  saying,  '()  Ajadla  chin-a,  Mari  a  buino.'  The 
J'-anga  -ay,  'Aje  .-enga.'  The  clapping  of  hand.-  to  .-uperior.-, 
:».nd  even  equals,  is  in  ,-oine  village-  a  perpetnallv  recurring 
sound.  Aged  persons  are  usually  saluted.  How  this  extreme 
deference  to  eaeh  other  could  have  ari-en,  I  cannot  conceive  :  it 
doe-  not  seem  to  be  lear  ot  each  other  that  elicits  it.  Kven  the 
chief-  in-pire  no  lear,  and  tho~c  cruel  old  platitude-  about  ii"V- 
ernin^  -avage-  by  tear  .-eein  unknown,  yet  governed  tlu-v 
Certainlv  are,  and  upon  the  whole  verv  well. 

"  The  o\\ -iiers  of  hut-  lend  them  willinglv  to  strangers,  and 
have  a  ijreat  deal  of  toil  in  con-i  'jiicnce ;  thev  have  to  clean 
them  after  the  vi-itor-  have  withdrawn  ;  then,  in  addition  to 

till-,  t'>  eleail  tlielll-elve-,  all  -oiled  I  »v  the  dll-t  left  li\'  the  lodg- 
er- ;  their  b'xlies  and  clothe-  have  to  be  clean-«i|  atier\\anl-  ; 
tli-  v  ad«l  \'»»\  t'Mi  in  all  ca-e-  ot'  aci|n:iintancohi]>,  and  then  \\e 
have  to  remember  the  lal»or  of  preparing  thai  \'<»»\.  Mv  i'e- 
mainiii_r  h'-iv  enable-  me  to  ob-erve  that  both  men  and  \\omen 
afe  in  almo-t  con-tant  employment.  '|'||,.  n\,-\\  are  making 
mat-,  or  weaving,  or  spinning;  no  one  .-mild  \\itin--  tii<  :r 
a--idtiit\  in  their  little  all'air-  and  ei,nelij.|e  tint  tl:e\  \\e]e  a 

l.l/V     pe..[.!e.  1   he    only     idle    tlllie     I     ob-erVe    ll'-|e    i-    in    )!|e    lll'.III- 

i.ij;-  aln.nt  -e\  en  .  I'cl.iek,  \\lien  all  ei.m.-  and  -it  f..  eat.-li  the 
tir-i  r  .-.  -  o|  the  -un  a-  lie  come-  nver  IMII-  clump  ot'  tree-,  but 

an    i  >  >\»  <\  t  nn  ;t  \    ]i M'    -i  I'iii  .'in  ' 


THE    CUPPING    IHWN.  44,'j 

"The  people  serin  to  have  no  family  names.  A  man  takes  the 
name  of  his  mother,  or  .should  his  father  die  he  may  assume 
that.  Marriage  is  forbidden  to  the  first,  second,  and  third 
decrees;  they  call  first  and  second  cousins  brothers  and  sisters." 

Among  the  customs  which  approach  nearest  the  arts  of  eivil- 
i/.ed  life  the  doctor  mentions  the  cujijriny  of  the  temples  for 
pore  eyes.  Having  no  such  appliances  as  \ve  consider  almo-t 
essential,  and  untaught  as  thev  are  in  the  philosophical  princi- 
ples underlying  it,  these;  rude  people  have  been  aided  bv  their 
remarkable  ingenuity  in  devising  the  practical  counterpart  of 
our  more  elegant  cups.  In  their  process  "a  goat's  horn  is  u.-ed 
\vith  a  small  hole  in  the  j  win  ted  end  ;  the  base;  is  applied  to  the 
part  from  which  the  blood  is  to  be  drawn,  and  the  operator, 
with  a  small  piece  of  chewed  India-rubber  in  his  mouth,  ex- 
hausts the  air,  and  at  the  proper  moment  plasters  the  hole  up 
with  his  tongue.  When  the  cupping  horn  is  removed,  some 
cuts  are  made  with  a  small  knife  and  it  is  a^ain  applied."  It 
may  seem  a  rough  appliance,  as  indeed  it  is,  but  it  serves  the 
purpose  and  is  in  great  repute  all  through  the  country.  Like 
everything  else  in  the  country,  however,  this  has  its  attending 
superstition;  a  mother  who  thus  extracts  the  blood  from  her 
child  may  be  seen  immediately  sprinkling  those  precious  drop-, 
as  a  charm,  over  the  roof  of  her  hut.  ('harms  were  in  universal 
use,  over  doors  and  gateways,  everywhere  that  thev  c»ii!u  be- 
thought of. 

I>ut,  although  Livingstone  was  a  man  who  could  find  some- 
thing of  interest  in  almost  everything  and  everybody,  the  time 
hung  very  heavily  em  his  hands.  lie  lost  no  opportunitv  to 
seek  information  about  the  surrounding  e-ountry  from  Arab.- 
and  natives,  but  thev  could  give  but  little'  satisfaction  ;  thev 
were*  too  ignorant  to  eveMi  notice'  more  than  ioree'tl  it-elf  on 
their  observation  bv  the1  difficulties  or  convenience  of  travelling. 

The  intercourse  of  the1  Arabs,  who  were  themselves  blacks, 
was  that  e)f  equals  with  the  natives  ;  they  bought  and  sold  and 
married,  came  and  went,  formed  alliances  or  niaele  war.-,  ju.-t 
like1  tin1  heathe'ii  then-  were  with.  Hut  they  \ven-  re.-peeivd 
beranse  the'y  brought  goods  and  e'arrie-d  guns.  And  .-<>  tar  it. 
was  a  tiling  to  be  glael  of.  that  Livingstone  had  their  protee-tie»i 
uneler  the  circumstances;  anel  thev  were  in  e-onstant  intercom's" 


44»5  TOWN  LIFE. 

\vith  /lan/ahar,  and  furni.-hed  the  means  of  sending  out  letters; 
hnt  th'-v  were  no  -ocietv  for  I >r.  Living-tone. 

The  coimtrv,  though  Ix-antifnl,  presented  few  features  of 
fiiiii'-iciii  inteiv-t  to  engage  one  .-o  long  a  time.  In  connection 
with  tin-  ti-diou-iic—  nt' this  ddav,  the  din-tor  j-avs  : 

"There  i-  nothing  interesting  in  a  heathen  town.  All  are 
lm.-v  in  preparing  food  or  clothing,  mat-  or  Ir.u-kct-,  whilst  the 
women  are  cleaning  or  grinding  their  corn,  which  involves 
milch  hard  lalior.  Thev  tir-t  drv  this  in  the  -tin,  then  pnt  it 
into  a  mortar,  and  afterwards  with  a  flat  Inu-ket  clean  oil'  the 
husks  and  the  dn-t,  and  urind  it  In-tween  two  -tones  ;  the  next 
thin^  i-  to  lirii:j  wood  and  water  to  cook  it.  NOW  and  then  a 
little  relief  wa-  afforded  !iv  -onic  occurrence  a  little  out  of  the 
ordinary.  The  weather  was  ipiite  cool  part  of  the  while, 
although  the  hot  .-ea-on,  which  conic-  earlier  than  in  the  more 
southern  ci.niitrv  l>v  -  >m(  month-,  \\ a-  In-ginning  in  May,  and 
the  people  frei  jiieiit  ly  -it  tire  to  their  frail  hut-  liv  t  he  (-.irdess 
n-e  of  that  daiiL'eron-  a^cnt.  (  >n  one  o<-c:i-ion  the  chief  was 
aroii-ed  and  threatened  t»  Inirn  hi-  o\\  n  hotj-e  and  all  hi-  prop- 

ertV    l>ccall-e    the    pcojile    Mole    lVo||J    it,    lillt     lie   did     Hot      proceed     -,  , 

far:  it  ua-  prohahlv  a  \\av  of  letting  the  A  rah  dependent.-  know 
that  he  u  a-  aroii-cd." 

Tin-  leading  f'-at:;re  of  the  place  wa-  the  slave-trading,  as  it 
i-  wherever  ihe-e  Ai'.i'o-  have  jicnetratcd.  <  )f  this  trade,  ;us 
c\;-i;n_r  ln-re,  the  do.  tor  -a\-: 

"  >!ave-  arc  -old  hep-  in  tie-  -aim-  op.  n  wav  that  the  hn-iness 
is  carried  on  in  Xan/.ihar  slave-market.  A  man  coc-  aKoiit 
c.ill.n_r  "Ut  the  price  he  \\anl-  for  the  -lave,  who  walk-  hehind 
him  ;  if  a  \\oinan.  -he  i-  taken  into  a  hut  to  lie  examined  in  a 

-la'e  of    Mild.!  v. 

"  Slaverv  i-  a  ur''"(  at  '-\il  wherever  I  have  -ecu  it.  A  poor 
oM  ••  oinan  and  eh:  !•!  ai  ••  anioiij  !  In-  c::p'  i  YC-.  The  IHI\  ,  almllt 
tii!«e  \car-  "id,  --i-m-  a  mother'-  p--t.  Hi-  !•••!  an-  -ore  tVom 
\\alkin_'  in  tin-  -nn.  !!••  v.  a-  o!l'e|-ed  f-r  I 'A  o  lathoin-,  and  h;- 
i.ji.tii-  r  l-r  one  f.iihom  ;  h--  nndcr-lood  it  all.  and  cried  I. ill-  rly, 
eiinjiitj  t"  hi-  i:i"th'  r.  >!.e  had.  ")'  ,  ,,ui'-  ,  no  |>ou.-r  to  help 
him  ;  t!i-  ••  \\i-r'-  -'-paratcd  :it  karnnjii  afterward-. 

••  Tin-  :t ''.-.-,,  ,"  u  riti  -  the  i  .  i;«,.  r  of'  t  he  "  I  .a-t  .loiirnal-,"  \\  ho 
•\ ..  :  in  n  ;  tar  \\  ;'  h  '  h'  e.  iiint  r\  .  "  i-  an  epi-mle  of  eVerv-dav  i  K-clir- 


I.JTTU:  WONDKUS.  417 

re  nee.  in  the  wake  (»f  tin-  slave-dealer.  'Two  fathom-,'  men- 
tioned as  tin;  price  of  tin-  Itoy's  lili- — tin-  more  valuable  of  tin- 
two — moans  four  yards  of  unbleached  calico,  which  i.-  a  iiiiiv.-r.sal 
article  of  barter  throughout  the  greater  part  of  Africa:  the 
mother  was  bought  for  two  yards.  The  reader  mii-t  not  think 
that  there  are  no  lower  prices;  in  the  famines  which  -nceeed  the 
slave-dealer's  raids,  boys  and  girls  are  at  times  to  be  pureha.-ed 
by  the  dealer  for  a  few  handfuls  of  mai/.e." 

The  large  animals,  which  have  become  familiar  objects  to  the 
reader  who  has,  followed  us  along  the  track  of  this  wonderful 
traveller,  abounded  in  the  region.  J>nt  among  the  more  insig- 
nificant creatures  some  curiosities  are  mentioned.  Indei-d  it  is 
one  of  the  pleasant  things  of  our  experience,  in  examining  care- 
fully the  vast  amount  of  material  which  has  at  one  time  and 
another  been  given  to  the  world  by  Dr.  Livingstone,  that  we 
are  led  into  the  obscurities  of  unconspieiiou.s  nature,  the  little 
things,  which  we  might  pass  over  had  we  a  guide  lc-.-  thought- 
ful and  intelligent.  It  is  in  the  tiny  existences  of  earth  that  the 
finest  touches  of  Divine  wisdom  are  displayed.  Out  of  inex- 
haustible resources  the  Infinite  Creator,  who  -cts  our  skv  with 
worlds  like  jewels,  affords  to  fill  also  the  hidden  place-  with 
works  of  marvellous  beauty  and  interest.  Livingstone  honored 
God  by  an  unwearying  curiosity  :  the  birds  and  flowers,  the 
earth  and  rocks,  all  had  attraction  for  him.  Hut  the  special 
objects  mentioned  here  may  hardly  seem  to  justify  enthusi- 
asm ;  however,  commonplace  as  they  mav  .-ecin,  hi-  note-  serve 
to  illustrate  one  important  and  honorable  feature  of  the  charac- 
ter of  this  great  man — the  careful ni-ss  of  his  observations. 

"A  large  spider  makes  a  nest  inside  the  huts.  It  con-i.-ts  of 
a  piece  of  pure  white  paper,  an  inch  and  a  half  broad,  Muck  flat 
on  the  wall ;  under  this  some  fortv  or  fiftv  egg-  are  placed,  and 
then  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  thinner  paper  is  put  numd  it, 
apparently  to  fasten  the  first  firmlv.  ^'lien  making  the  paper 
the  spider  moves  itself  over  the  surface  in  wavv  lines  ;  .-he  then 
sits  on  it  with  her  eight  legs  spread  over  all  for  three  weeks 
continuously,  catching  and  eating  anv  insects,  as  cockroaches, 
that  come  near  her  nest.  After  three  weeks  -he  leave-  it  to 
hunt  for  food,  but  always  returns  at  night  :  the  native1.-  do  not 
molest  it. 


44<J  THE   COVENANT. 

"A  small  ant  ma-tcrs  the  common  fly  by  seizing  a  wing  or 
leg,  anil  iiulding  <>n  till  thr  fly  is  tired  out  ;  at  first  the  fly  can 
move  alx»ut  on  the  wing  without  ineonvenienee,  but  it  is  at  j:ust 
obliged  to  -titvumb  to  an  enemy  very  much  smaller  than  itself. 

1>A  .-JHVICS  of  Touraeo,  new  to  me,  has  a  broad  yellow  ma>k 
on  the  tip[M-r  part  of  the  bill  and  forehead  ;  the  topknot  is  pur- 
ple, the  wings  the  same  as  in  other  species,  but  the  red  is  roseate. 
The  yellow  of  the  mask  plates  is  conspicuous  at  a  distance." 

At  la.-t,  after  so  long  a  time,  and  more  Iving  anil  plundering 
on  both  side<  than  we  could  rcnmnt  in  a  volume,  afl'airs  were 
brought  to  something  like  a  settlement  between  Xsama  and 
I  lamer-,  and  N>ama  promised  to  seal  the  covenant  of  peaee 
bv  giving  <»ne  of  hi-  daughters  to  Hamees  as  a  wife!  The  wav 
wa-  now  cleared  of  the  great  obstacle,  and  Living-tone  with  his 
little  band  .-et  out  across  the  country  in  eomj>anv  with  the 
Arab-. 

The  country  i-  de-crilx-d  as  <jiiite  beautiful.  (Yos-ing  tho 
I'rangu  and  the  I^ofn,  which,  the  reader  will  rememlxT,  had 
been  cr<  i--*-d  nearer  their  soiircc-i  In-fore  reaching  the  lake,  they 
a-'-eiideil  th<-  ridge  which  forms  the  water-shed  between  Lake 
Liemba  and  the  Moero.  Desivilding  this  rid^e  they  were  in 
Itawa,  the  dominion  of  \-ama.  This  chief  wa-.  of  a  diilercnt 
tarnilv  from  those  nf  I 'ningu.  K:i>onso,  ( 'hitimba,  and  I'ron^- 
we,  were  all  I  "ran^ai,  and  <-<jual  in  rank;  Nsama  was  of  the 
liaheniha  fainilv. 

The  j»ar:v  mareht  d  fn>t  to  Hara,  a  district  of  Itawa,  whose 
.-tiM-kudcd  village  had  bei-n  destroyed  bv  the  Arab-  during  the 
"  late  ii!i|»!ca-antne>-  "  of  which  we  have  told  v<ui. 

They  Were  here  on  the  ,r>th  of  S*'ptemlx-r,  1^'iT.  "  (  )bedient 
•')  the  custom-  of  the  conntrv,"  say-  the  doctor,  "  we  waite<l  at 
llara  to  sit-  if  N-ania  wi-hed  n-  any  nearer  to  him-elf'.  He  is 
very  rnii'-h  afraid  of  the  Arab-,  and  well  he  may  be,  fi>r  ho 
v,:;-.  until  lat(  !y  supjKi-4fl  t->  In'  invincible.  He  (ill  In-fore 
twenty  mti-ki-t-,  and  tin-  has  caii-eil  a  panic  throughout  the 
i  I'Mnt r\.  ' 

It  wa-  di-ti-'--inu'  indeed  to  se«-  so  fine  a  di-triet  almo-t 
abandoned  by  it-  occupant-.  The  strife  had  Ineii  -hort.  and 
i.;i!y  a  "  little  'jiiarr«  1."  a-  uc,  \\  ho  are  :v |iiainte(l  with  <'iri/i^><! 
\\ar,  would  thin!;  ;  but  the  pe..pl<-  had  lied;  and  there  were  no 


VISITS    N.SAM  A.  110 

reapers  for  the  fields  which  waved  their  harvests,  like  the  ban- 
ncr  of  divine  benevolence,  which  kindly  cheers  the  sorrows  that 
men  briii);  on  themselves  by  their  animosities  in  Africa  and 
America  alike.  The  abundance  of  food  was  ama/in<r:  ''three 

O 

hundred  men,  living  nt  free  quarters,  made  no  impression  on  it." 
Nsama  had  erected  a  new  stockade  close  by  the  old  one,  wh'n-h 
had  been  burned  by  Hamidi  bin  Mohamad,  and  there  he  .-at  in 
state  to  receive  the  visitor.  When  lie  received  Dr.  Living-tone's 
messenger,  he  returned  an  invitation  to  him  to  come  and  .-ee 
him,  but  to  bring  no  guns.  Accordingly  the  doctor  went  on  to 
his  stockade,  attended  by  a  large  crowd  of  people.  "  IJelbre  we 
(-a me  to  the  inner  stockade,"  says  he,  "they  felt  my  clothes  to 
sec  that  no  firearms  were  concealed  about  my  person.  When 
we  reached  Xsama,  we  found  a  very  old  man,  with  a  good  head 
and  liice  and  a  large  abdomen,  showing  that  he  was  addicted  to 
pombe :  his  people  have  to  carry  him.  I  gave  him  a  cloth,  and 
asked  for  guides  to  Moero,  which  lie  readily  granted,  and  a-ked 
leave  to  feel  my  clothes  and  hair.  I  advised  him  to  try  and 
live  at  peace,  but  his  people  were  all  so  much  beyond  the  con- 
trol of  himself  and  head  men,  that  at  last,  after  scolding  them, 
he  told  me  that  he  would  send  for  me  bv  night,  and  then  we 
could  converse,  but  this  seems  to  have  gone  out  of  his  head. 
lie  sent  me  a  goat,  flour,  and  pombe,  and  next  day  we  returned 
to  Ilara." 

Although  Xsama  seemed  quite  pleasant,  and.  besides  manifest- 
ing considerable  respect  for  the  guns  which  he  had  learned  had 
largely  the  advantage  over  his  bows  and  arrows,  had  made  such 
positive1  terms  with  Ilamees,  there  were  no  little  grounds  of 
suspicion  that  he  might  after  all  be  onlv  seeking  to  encourage  a 
confidence  on  the  part  of  the  Arab-,  which  might  enable  him  to 
gain  soiiK1  sudden  advantage  of  them  ;  he  had  not  kept  hi-  word 
to  Hamees,  either  about  promised  ivory  or  the  will-,  and 
Ilamees  was  not  trustful  at  best.  It  was  beginning  to  be  doubt- 
ful whether  the  hope  of  going  on  peaeeablv  might  not  turn  out 
a  false  hope.  And  Ilamees  was  arranging  to  g<>  back  to 
Chitimba  to  protect  his  people  and  propertv  there,  when,  inueh 
to  the  gratification  of  all  hands  on  the  1  ith  of  September,  the 
promised  daughter  of  Xsama  made  her  appearance,  in  splendid 
stvle,  the  most  approved  fashion  of  this  country,  "  riding  picka- 


4'>0  A    WIFK    THROWS    IX. 

pack  on  a  man's  shoulders  ;"  :in<l  the  doctor  goes  on  to  assure  us 
that  this  hridc  to  In-  wa-,  according  to  the  standard  of  the  realm 
in  which  -he  dwelt,  a  ni<v,  modest,  good-looking  voung  woman, 
her  hair  ruhU-d  all  over  with  nk'>f<i,  a  red  pigment,  made  from 
the  camwood,  and  much  used  as  an  ornament.  She  w;us  aeeom- 
paniiil  liv  alnitit  a  do/en  voting  and  old  female  attendants,  cjirh 
earrvin^  a  small  lta>kct  with  some  provisions,  as  cassava, 
ground-nuts,  tfcc.  The  A  rain  were  all  dress<il  in  their  fmerv, 
and  thi-  -lav«>,  in  fantastic  dress***,  flourished  swords,  fired  gun-, 
and  veiled.  When  .-he  was  drought  to  Ilamees'  lint  she  de- 
s^-ndt-d,  and  with  her  maid-  \\vnt  into  the  hnt.  She  and  her 
attendants  had  all  -mall,  neat  feature-.  The  doctor  had  Ut-n 
sitting  with  Hamees,  and  now  ro-e  np  and  went  awav.  As  the 
doctor  p:i--"d  him,  he  -puke  thu-  to  him-elf:  "  MameiN  Wadim 
Ta^h  !  -e»-  to  what  von  have  liron^ht  vonr-clf !  !  " 

In  thi-  mnmvtion  we  mav  :ul«l  that  N-ama's  people  art1  re- 
ported to  have  small  well-ehi-elled  feature-,  and  manv  are 
reallv  handsome-,  and  have  tiothini;  of  the  we-t  coa-t  ne-jro 
ahoiit  them,  luit  thev  tile  th-'ir  te^th  to  -harp  point-,  and  irn-atlv 
di-ti^ure  their  mouth*.  Tho  only  ililTeremt-  ln-tween  them  and 
K'ii'"peaii-  i-  the  color.  Manv  of  the  men  have  verv  tinelv- 
f  irni'-'l  h«-ad-.  and  -o  have  the  women  ;  and  the  fa-hion  of  wear- 
ing flic  hair  -••'-  o»V  thi-ir  toreh«-ad-  to  advantage.  The  ton-head 
i-  -liav-'d  oil'  to  the  erovvn,  the  -paee  narrowing  a-  it  tjoes  up; 
th''!i  tli"  liaek  hair  i- arranged  into  knol>-  of  aiioiit  ten  rows. 
Tip  v  are  .juit'1  intelligent  and  evinee  considenihle  quieknes^  of 
jM-recptiitn,  and  it  wa-  not  dilli'-nlt  to  understand  the  po-ition 
win-  !i  th'-v  had  '_rauieil  among  tin-  trilx-,  when  (olenililv  familiar 
ui'h  their  characters.  Thev  ar«'  rather  apt  stiid^nt-  of  human 
nature,  and  parti'-ularlv  quick  to  det<->-t  th«-  p«-«-nliarities  of  a 
in  1:1  :  t!ii-  wa-  il'u-trat'-d  l>v  tlfir  hal'it  <•!'  naming  tho-e  with 
^^!l••:•l  r !i.-\-  ••ani'-  in  «-ontaej  in  a'-'-ordati'-e  with  th<-  eharacter 
li  !>'  iv.  I  :  !',r  in-tatiee,  th.  \-  ,-a!!.-l  Ham  id  liin  Mohamad  "  Tipo 
Tipo."  -\lii-h  ni'-an-  "  Lrath'T  to.;.  ! In  r  of  v.ealth."  h«-  liein-j  the 
eh1.'  I  a<-'or  1:1  the  -iMidin  '  of  the  eountrv  ;  and  another  who  will 

I 

fiL'Ui'  h'T'-aft' r  a-  '  on- pi.  MMM-  in  the  "laving  Ini-iii"--  \\a- 
•  •ril!-  1  "  K'ltii'rt  Kuml.a."  a  e.  ,l!.-e!or  of'  p«-op!r.  |',ut  intelligent 
;;:i'!  lira',--  a-  th-v  mi-jhl  !>••,  th>  v  had  heeoine  thurollghlv  afraid 

of  /MM-. 


A    LKS.SON    IN    CHARITY.  4 ",3 

Jt  was  exceedingly  trying  on  many  accounts  to  be  obliged  to 
ktrp  the  company  of  the  Arabs,  hut  particularly  on  account  of 
the  verv  dilatory  movements  of  their  party  ;  hut  there  wa-  noth- 
ing rise  to  he  done.  Xsama  could  not  he  depended  on,  and  tbe 
little  party  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  small  as  it  had  Ix'come,  was  le>- 
and  less  to  he  trusted.  Another  of  his  men  had  abandoned  him 
on  tin1  horders  of  Itawa,  the  very  scamp  who  had  been  the  cau-c 
of  his  misfortune  in  being  robbed  of  his  medicine-box.  He  felt 
almost  a'one,  and  could  not  iiiil  to  appreciate  the  providence 
which  had  raised  him  up  an  escort  of  the  very  men  whose  trade 
was  mo.-t  contrary  to  his  views.  I'ossiblv  the  kindness  which 
was  shown  him  by  these  dealers  in  slaves  was  intended,  bv  the 
great  Ruler  of  all,  to  correct  any  growing  bitterness  against  the 
slave-owner,  while  he  might  detest  slave-owning.  It  is,  we 
know,  one  of  the  mo>t  lamentable  weaknesses  of  human  nature, 
that  we  cannot  recognize,  as  we  should,  the  different  education- 
of  men,  or  make  allowance  fullv  for  the  differences  of  judgment. 
We  are,  perhaps,  more  forward  than  we  should  be,  to  make  our 
opinions  of  right  the  absolute  touch-stone  of  human  virtue.  Jt 
is  thus  that  we  become  the  persecutors  of  men  when  we  .-lioiild 
be  the  advocates  of  doctrine.  It  is  not  to  be  desired  that  a  man 
should  surrender  his  ideas  of  right,  because  of  other  good  he 
may  find  in  those  who  differ  with  him  on  some  great  question  ; 
but  it  is  well  if  he  comes  to  distinguish  between  hone.-t  differ- 
ence of  opinion  and  personal  meanness,  and  learns  to  respect  a 
man  though  he  mav  hate  a  sentiment.  The  question  of'  human 
slavery  has  been  prominent  among  the  vital  i.-sues  of  cent  uric.-. 
In  our  own  country  it  has  been  a  very  serious  one.  It  is  to  be 
lamented  that  the  antagonists  in  the  great  controversy  have  been 
so  frequently  unable  to  rise  above  personal  bitterness  in  the  dis- 
cussion. It  ought  not  to  be  expected  of'  anv  man  to  abandon 
his  convictions  of  right  or  privilege  at  the  bar  of  his  neighbor'.-, 
judgment  ;  before  a  common  Creator  and  Judge  let  everv  man 
stand  or  tall. 

The  j'< iff  of  property  in  man  is  now  a  thing  of  the  past  in 
our  country,  and  the  most  x.ealous  supporters  of  the  |><>licv 
which  has  cancelled  it,  the  most  ardent  advocates  of  human 
equality,  ought  to  reflect  whether  they  do  not  violate  their  own 
almost  deified  code  when  they  visit  ftill  with  their  anathemas 
•27 


4")4  DIFFKKKXT    MOTIVES. 


who  decline  to  confess  themselves  sinners  above  others 
bwause  thev  owned  slaves.  (lod  grant  that  Americans  may 
sjHfdily  outgrow  all  remaining  taint  of  tyranny  which  -hows 
it-df  in  hating  a  man  IMM-UI-C  of  liis  creed,  and  stand  l>efore 
the  world  in  fact,  as  thev  do  in  name,  a  brotherlxxid  on  the 
matchless  l>a.-i-  of  unfettered  conscience,  the  kevstone  of  the 
-Trnctnrc  which  -hel  ers  them. 

\\  lien  at  la.-t  the  way  \v:i>  ojx-n,  whatever  mav  have  been  his 
moralizing,  I>r.  Livingstone  was  full  of  jov.  He  >et  ont 
attrndeil  liv  the  whole  partv  of  Arabs  —  they  with  hearts  -et  or) 
the  ivory  and  slave.-  in  which  thcv  saw  their  longed-fnr  wealth 
and  self-indnl<renee  ;  he  to  find  the  solution,  if  possible,  of  the 
problem  which  had  cn^a^ed  mankind  for  >o  manv  cc'itnrics.  to 
-••tile,  if  po--il)le,  (jne^tion-  of  \'a-t  inijxirtance  to  the  continent, 
t-i  mark  out  a  path  fur  civilization,  to  set  up  the  standard  of 
(  'hri-t  in  the  centre  of  that  nio-t  nee<lin/  land.  I  low  -tran^ely 
'he  motive-,  of  the-c  men  c"ii  t  ra.-t  ed  !  ^\'llat  wa~  the  ditVcremv  ? 
'  liin  color  <>r  eilm-ution  explain  it?  \\  a-  there  not  a  dee  j  XT 
difference  than  can  !>«•  toinid  in  complexion,  or  made  l.\-  tcach- 
i:i_"?  ('an  it  IM-  explaitied  cxcejit  li\-  the  religion  oi'  ,!e-.ii~? 

The  lon'_'  line  went  \sindi  ir^  awav  from  the  village  o!'  N-ama, 
fir-t  northward,  cro-^in^  -evcral  riil'je-  and  va!!ev-.  !..-.iin^  the 
('hi-craand  the  Kamo-cnpi  river*,  to  tin-  viMaire  o!'  Kartuipi, 
where  tliev  arrived  <»n  the  .".(itli.  The  joiinn  v  had  IM-CII  at- 
tended  with  onlv  the  n-nal  incidents  of  walking  and  waiting. 
^'ivinur  and  receiving  pre-i-nts  with  the  jw-oplc.  '1  he  JM-O|))C  all 
alon^r  \\-ere  t!ie  v|il.ject~  of  N-ama,  though  olievin^  lo.-a!  chief-  ; 
thev  had  lie.-n  Kind  and  i_r(ineroii-.  The  MTIHTV  vavi-.l;  tlnre 
had  li-eti  splciiiliil  mountain  view*,  loyelv  jli  -n-,  and  hmad 
plain-,  l.ir.l-,  and  \':L-t  herd-  <.f  the  animal-  which  l»-lonj  to  the 
!:md.  T!ie  t-rror  of  j-nn-,  which  the  ]..•,,  j.le  had  conceived  iVom 
?  !.!•!•  \pi-r5i-nci-  of  N-ama,  \\  a-  th--  principal  inconvenient'  ;  thi-, 
::i  «.o?ni«  in-tance-,  rnade  interconr-e  uith  the  rhi<  -f-  a!mo-t  im- 
p".  !.!.-.  An  extract,  in  the  travdli-r'-  own  lan^na^e.  \\  ill  il!u  — 
Ira'--,  n.  "fe  ]  .(  rfectlv  than  \\  «•  can  explain,  tin-  annovaiiei  -  oj  thr- 
j<  itirn-  •%•  : 

"  K:!:--III/M  \\as  \  .  rv  much  a'Vaid  "f  n-  ;  he  Kept  every 
one  out  of  );>  -•.,.],  ad--  at  f.r-t,  1-nt  during  tlie  time  the 
Aral'-  --lit  f-'f\ard  t"  trv  and  c.:ic;!ia'i!  other  dncl-«  he 


TIPO   Tiro.  4:-^ 

gradually  l>eoamo  more  friendly.  II«'  had  little  ivory  to  sell, 
and  of  those,  who  had,  Mteto  or  Mtema  sot-mod  inclined  to  treat 
the  messengers  roughly.  Men  were  aNo  sent  to  N.sima,  u.-king 
him  to  trv  and  induct,'  Mtema  and  Chikongo  to  be  friendly  and 
sell  ivorv  and  provisions,  but  he  replied  that  the.-c  chief-  were 
not  men  under  him,  and  if  they  thought  themselves  .-trong 
enough  to  contend  against  gnus  he  had  nothing  to  sav  to  them. 
Other  chiefs  threatened  to  run  away  as  soon  a.-  they  -aw  the. 
Anihs  approaching.  These  were  assured  that  we  meant  to  pa.*-* 
through  the  count rv  alone,  and  il'  thev  gave  ns  guido  to  -how 
us  how,  we  should  avoid  the  villages  altogether,  and  proceed  to 
the  countries  where  ivorv  was  to  he  bought  ;  however,  the 
panic  was  too  great,  no  one  would  agree  to  our  overtures,  and 
at  last  when  we  did  proceed  a  chief  on  the  river  Choma  ful- 
filled his  threat  and  left  us  three  emptv  villages.  There  wen- 
no  people  to  sell,  though  the  granaries  were  crammed,  and  it  was 
impossible  to  prevent  the  slaves  from  stealing. 

"When  Chikongo  heard  Tipo  Tipo's  message  about  buying 
ivory,  he  said  :  'And  when  did  Tipo  Tipo  place  ivory  in  my 
country  that  he  comes  seeking  it?'  Yet  he  sent  a  tusk  and 
said,  'That  is  all  I  have,  and  lie  is  not  to  come  here.'"  "Their 
hostile  actions,"  writes  the  doctor,  "are  caused  principally  bv  fear. 
'  If  Xsama  could  not  stand  before  the  Maiongwana  or  traders, 
how  can  we  face  them?'  I  wished  to  go  on  to  Moero,  but  all 
declare  that  our  ten  guns  would  put  all  the  villages  to  flight: 
thev  are  terror-struck.  First  rains  of  this  sea.-on  on  the  5th.'' 

Nearlv  the  whole  of  October  was  lo.-t  hen.-,  while  the  Arabs 
were  trving  to  drive  their  trades  with  the  chiefs  of  the  neigh- 
borhood. There  was  very  little  to  encourage  them  to  continue 
their  journey  to  the  Lake  Moero,  as  all  the  chiefs  seemed  de- 
termined to  sell  nothing.  And  it  seemed  not  improbable  that 
I>r.  Livingstone  would,  after  all  his  waiting,  be  left  to  continue 
his  journev  alone.  And  under  ordinary  circumstances  there  is 
not  much  uncertainty  whether  he  would  not  have  gone  on  much 
more  rapidly.  The.-e  Arab  trader.-  were  themselves  tpiite  as 
much  a  curio-itv  as  the  natives;  thev  seemed  tremendously 
religious  in  their  way.  They  con-tilted  the  Koran  for  every- 
thing, and  depend  on  all  sorts  of  conjuring.  Their  wedding 
and  funeral  occasions  were  ju-t  such  as  might  be  r-ceii  in  any  of 


4,~G  KMKAN   I>K<  IDKS  ALL. 

the  village--,  except  that  the  Koran  figured  in  tin-in.  H.^t 
\ven-  ^ivutlv  jH-rjilrxed  l>v  tin-  j'iv  which  their  frllow-tnivt'liiT 
had  in  tin-  tli-.ith  of  .Ie-u-.  Tin  v  knew  of  .Jc-u-,  hut  -aid  In- 
had  foretold  Mohammed,  that  In-  did  not  die  him-elf,  hut  another 
died  in  hi-  j>hnv.  It  \va-  tvrtaiuly  to  IK-  lamented  that  tin.' 
nann-  nf  religion  -hould  find  it-  l'"ivnn>-t  ivpivsriitativrs  in  (In1 
hf-art  »f  Africa  in  -ii'-h  nn-n.  Yet  MI  it  wa-.  Livin_r-tone  wa* 
tin-  fir-t  white  man  who  traver-ed  t!n-t-  sccludti]  n'^nm^. 

Tin-  im-vitahl'-  Koran  finally  decided  that  the  party  -hoi. Id 
m»ve  (.n  \ve-t\vard.  A»f«»nliliiilv  thev  .-<  t  out  alon^  tin-  hrol;.-n 
ciuintrv  which  divide-  Itaua  Iroin  Lojiei-c.  (  )n  the  'Jsth  tin  v 
ero---d  tin-  ('hoina  at  the  village  ('hiftipa,  and  noticed  that  it 
tl'-\\«-d  -"Utir.vot  to  j..'ni  tin-  (  'hi-era,  and  with  that  into  the 
Kaloii^o-i,  one  nt'  th.-  tri!)iitarie-,  a-  \\ill  l>e  -em,  «i'  I^ik«- 
M.-I-O.  (  )n  tlii-  in.U'-h  Living-tone  in-tirrd  twoti^lv  itn:4je-i 
in  hut-  hnilt  i'>r  them;  tln-v  n-pn^rutnl  in  a  jioor  wav  tin- 
|>e,ij,!r  i if  tli.-  i-MUMtrv,  and  \\'ei-e  ii-<il  in  rai n- 1 1 ia !^ i it::,  and  in 

the    cep   Iljullle-    ol     curing     the    -;ek.          I  111-,    he    felliarls-.    \\:i-     (lie 

iii-aiv-t  apjiroaeli  to  idol  wor-hip  which  he  had  found  in  i!ie 
eiitintrv.  I',  i-  a  matter  of  inten-t  that  id"!-  are  -M  fi  \\-  m 
ea-'ern  Atri'a.  1  ln\-  an-  \Vor-hippcd  iinM-e  eiitnuinidv  in  (lie 
•>'.•-:.  Dut  we  t'eel  a--ure-l  that  (In-  reader  will  not  fc.-l  that  t-n. 
mueii  time  i-  -pent  liv  (In-  \\av  i!  we  |ire-ent  him  with  a  fe-.v 
pa_"  -  ju-t  a-  (ln-v  e..nn  fro;n  the  hand  of  the  man  while  in  the 
in:-!-1  ••('  tin  -e  far-«.(V  --em -  : 

"  \\  e  an-  -till  j.  .jn_r  \\  ,-t '.sai'd,"  he  \\rite-,  '•  and  in  an  open 
vall'V  feinarkali!"1  lor  the  numher-  of  a  -mall  enplmrhia, 
\\hieh  \\e  -ma-ln-d  at  «\  ,  TV  -lep.  ('r,,--,d  a  -mall  lm(  -tron^ 
rivnlel,  the  I.ipand'-,  Lr"in-jj  -outh\\e-t  to  M. »•;•..;  then,  an  li..ur 
ail'  r-,\  ard-,  cj-i ,--.  d  if  a  jam,  m  '\v  t  \\  •  n!  \~  \  ard-  \\  n  !c  ai.d  km  ••- 
d  •>  j i.  A  i'ier  d — ending  tV>  >m  (In-  tre«-envi-ri-d  hill  u  hidi  di\  id«  •< 
l..j..i:i'|e  iVom  l.uao,  we  i-m—rd  t!ie  latter  t"  -1<  •  \>  on  it-  \\ ,  -tern 


8SEEKS    I'KEVAII..  157 

employers,  adds  life  to  the  scene;  they  are  in  three  bodic-,  and 
number  four  hundred  and  fifty  in  all.  Kach  party  ha.-  a  guide 
with  a  flag,  and  when  that  is  planted,  all  that  eoinpanv  .-top-  till 
it  is  lifted,  and  a  drum  is  beaten,  and  a  kudu'.-  horn  sounded. 
One  partv  is  headed  bv  about  a  do/en  fc-aders,  dressed  \vit(i  lan- 
tastie  head-near  of  feathers  and  bead.-,  red  cluth  on  the  bodies, 
and  skins  eut  into  strips  and  twisted  :  they  take  their  place.-  in 
line,  the  drum  beats,  the  horn  sound.-  har-hlv,  and  all  fall  in. 
These  sounds  seem  to  awaken  a  sort  of  <'Xj>rit  d(  corp*  in  those 
who  have  once  been  slaves.  Mv  attendants  now  jumped  up, 
and  would  seareely  allow  me  time  to  dre-s  when  thev  heard  Un- 
sound.-of  their  childhood,  and  all  dav  thev  were  among  t he  fore- 
most. One  said  to  me  'that  his  feet  were  rotten  with  marching,' 
and  this  though  told  that  they  were  not  called  on  to  race  along 
like  slaves. 

''The  Africans  cannot  stand  sneers.  When  anv  mishap 
occurs  in  the  march  (as  when  a  branch  tilts  a  load  oil'  a  man's 
shoulder)  all  who  see  it  set  up  a  yell  of  derision  ;  if  anything  i.- 
accidcn tally  spilled,  or  if  one  is  tired  and  sits  down,  the  -am;' 
yell  greets  him,  and  all  are  excited  therebv  to  exert  themselves. 
Thev  hasten  on  with  their  loads,  and  hurrv  with  the  .-heds  thev 
build  ;  the  masters  only  bring  up  the  rear,  helping  any  one  who 
may  be  sick.  The  distances  travelled  were  quite  as  much  a.-  the 
masters  or  we  could  bear.  Had  frequent  halts  been  madi — as, 
for  instance,  a  half  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour  at  the  end  of  every 
hour  or  two — but  little  distress  would  have  beer,  felt  ;  but  live 
hours  at  a  stretch  is  more  than  man  can  bear  in  a  hot  climate. 
The  female  slaves  held  on  bravelv  ;  nearlv  all  carried  loads  on 
their  head.-:  the  head,  or  ladv  of  the  party,  who  is  al-o  the  wile 
of  the  Arab,  was  the  onlv  exception.  She  had  a  tine  white 
shawl,  with  ornament.-  of  gold  and  silver  on  her  head.  The-e 
ladies  had  a  jaunty  walk,  and  never  gave  in  on  the  longest 
march  ;  manv  pounds'  weight  of  line  copper  leglets  above  the 
ankles  seemed  onlv  to  help  the  .-wav  of  their  walk  ;  as  -oon  a- 
thev  arrive  at  the  sleeping-place  thev  begin  to  cook,  and  in  this 
art  thev  show  a  good  deal  of  expertnes-,  making  -avorv  di-he- 
for  their  ma.-ters  out  of  wild  fruits  and  other  not  vcrv  likelv 
materials. 

"The  splendid    ranges   of    hills    retire   as   we   advance:    the 


458  l.AKK    MOERO. 

H»il  is  vt-rv  rich.  At  t<\o  vi!!a_" •-  th<-  p<'»|i!e  did  n.it  want  a-, 
.s.»  we  went  on  and  ea.-aaip.-d  n-  :tr  :i  third,  Kabwakwa,  where  a 
-on  of  Mohamad  l»in  >ah  li.  \\  ith  a  num'iHT  of  \Vanyamwe-i,  live-. 
The  chief  of  thi-  part  i.-  Mualni,  but  we  did  not  -ee  him:  the 
p.t>;>le  brought  plenty  «>f  !'••«. d  tor  u>  to  buy.  Tin-  youth's 
latiicr  i-  at  ( 'ax-mi*1'.-.  Th«i  ir»UMtry-jKi»plo  \v»-iv  vt-rv  much 
tlivt-ii  to  fal-Miho<xl — ^-vcrv  plan-  inijuin-d  i'«r  \\:L-  iirar — ivorv 
.i!)iiiitlant—  pr«  \  i>ion.-  ot  all  -ort>  chcup  and  plmtv.  ( )ur  h«-a<l 
iiicn  tru-tfl  t"  tln'-i-  .-ta'i-im-nt-  of  thi>  N'oiin^  man  rather,  aii'l 
In-  n<l  tin-in  to  d.->i~t  L.r(|ii'L:  farther.  Una  roimtrv  was  a  month 
di-:aiit,  hr  >uiil,  ami  hut  litt!»-  ivory  there.  It  i-  hut  three  <lay- 
<•!]'  \ve-a\v  it  after  three  «lav«  .  '  NO  ivorv  at  ('a>emlx''s  (»r 
her.-  in  Uuire,  or  Kahuire.'  He  \\a-  ri-^ht  :'.-  (••  Ca>einl>«%.  I.'-i- 
ter-,  ho\\-ever.  cMtue  tVoiu  Haiii'i'-,  \vith  iie\vs  of  a  tlepres>ing 
natui'--.  ( 'hitimha  U  deatl,  ami  -o  i-  Mainhwe." 

The  ne\v-  of  ( 'hitimha'-  death,  and  that  hi-  pe.ij.le  were 
fi^htin^  t'l'f  the  ehii -ftain-hip,  :in<l  other  matter-  in  an  iiiiM-tlli-d 
Mtate  th'-i'e,  v,.,-  iiiivthitiir  hut  plea-ant  l»  (\\>-  A  rah-  ;  the  prim-i- 
pal  re-u!t.-  <•!'  their  trading  were  -tofed  there;  the  elll-et  ot'  th" 
lieu-  \\a-  tn  deeide  '\l\><>  Ti|M.  t..  return  and  juin  Haniee-.  II. 
dn  id- d  !••  remain  in  I'uiie  onlv  t.-n  or  twcntv  ila\>,  -end  out 
|M-..|i!e  (..  huv  \\hat  ivi'j-v  thev  e..ii!d.  and  retire. 

I  >r.  Living-torn-  jiarted  \MI  h  Tipo  Tipo  «u  the  7th  November, 
in  '••nipaiiv  \\ith  a  pariv  of  lii-  men  \\lio  wen-  to  vi-it  ( 'a-eml»e 
fir  ivorv.  Tln-v  pa--'-d  a!'.n_r  ;i  |,,ve!v  vallev  llirmed  hv  the 
Kau"ina  ran^e  and  an.ither  in  the  di-taint-  to  t  lit- iiorthwe-t. 
Tiii'  val'ev  'A  a-  th  "k!v  -tuddeil  n\er  with  \  ilhiT'"*,  tli<-  e.'inm"!) 
di-tanei'  fr. mi  »\\>-  t"  anotln-r  ii"t  !>•  iiiur  m.'re  than  "ne  hutidntl 
MI-  !\\.i  hundi-'-d  \ard-.  All  "f  th--.-  \  il!a_''  •-  \\ .  I  e  -IUT<  iimd.  d, 
1:1, •  lli..-.-  <.f  I.-Mida  ••!•  I. nnda,  h\-  -had-  tree-. 

<  )u  the  sth  tli.A   earn,-  t.,  Lake  M...  m,  n.-'lin.'  ijui'-tlv  bet  \\ei-ii 
an^-c  ot'  m-iuutaiii-,  and  .-lept  in  a  li-henuau'*>  hut. 


CHAPTER    XX  V. 

A     MONTH    WITH     rASKMHK. 

Moero — Hound  for  ('a-scmlx-  —  Kulon^osi  -Ahumlnnri?  <>f  Fish  —  I>r.  Liiccnla— 
The  liiiloiula—  Kiitcr  Cji.-cmhr's  Villain  (irarioii-ly  ILi-rriv.-.!  Moli:tni;ul  l>:n 
Salrh  Nuics  from  Journal— Xofu,  Kind's  Fool — •"  <  'a.srmlii',"  (ii-iirral  Hi-, 
(.'harm-tor— Customs — Liunl  Claims— llaml-Shukinj;-  I.I-UIT  t<>  I.onl  <'lar--n- 
don  I>c.MTi|>tivr  Uc'stinn'  —  Sick  ne.-s  -  Leaves  <'a.M-nil><-  l!oiin<l  (or  I  jiji 
Mohamad  I'in  Saleh  his  Companion — llun^iT — llliii-ss  — La<t  I'ay  of  \**',~  A 
Touchiiit;  lU-eonl. 

LKAVIN<;  the  special  observation  of  Moero  for  the  present, 
Livingstone  reaseended  the  eastern  flanking  ridge  and  tunu-d 
Southward  towards  the  town  of  C'aseinhe.  There  \vei'L'  onlv 
nine  persons  in  the  party  ;  yet  the  people  of  the  villages  .-eeined 
to  (ear  them,  and  frequently  closed  their  gates  as  tliev  ap- 
proached. Almost  daily,  as  they  advanced  southward,  tin  v 
met  parties  of  salt  traders,  and  learned  that  quite  a  trade  is  car- 
ried on  from  the  salt  springs  and  mud  about  the  lake  to  Lunda, 
and  elsewhere.  These  salt  traders  in  their  salutations  brought 
to  mind  a  custom  which  will  not  be  new — the  rubbing  earth  on 
the  arms.  The  route  lav  across  numberh'S??  streams  and  rivu- 
lets ;  and  about  half  wav  they  crossed  the  Kalongosi,  or,  as  the 
Arabs  and  Portuguese  pronounce  it,  Kanmgwcsi,  about  sixtv 
yards  wide,  and  (lowing  fast  over  stones.  It  j>  deep  enough, 
even  now  when  the  rainy  season  i-  not  commenced,  t'>  require 
canoes.  It  is  said  to  rise  in  Kuinbi,  or  Alar,  a  country  to  the 
southeast  of  our  lord.  Fish  in  great  numbers  are  caught  when 
ascending  to  spawn:  they  are  secured  bv  weirs,  net-,  hooks. 
Large  strong  baskets  are  placed  in  the  rapids,  and  tilled  with 
stones:  when  the  water  rises,  these  baskets  are  standing-places 
for  the  fishermen  to  angle  or  throw  their  nets.  Having  crossed 
the  Kalongosi  tliev  were  now  in  Lunda,  or  Londa. 

It  was  noticed  that  the  Kalongosi  went  north  till  it  met  a 
largo  meadow  on  the  shores  of  Moero,  and.  turning  westwards, 
it  entered  there.  The  fishermen  gave  the  names  of  thirty-nine 


4'iJ 


MOHAMAD    HIN    SALE1I. 

spci-ie*  of  fi>h  in  the  lake;  they  said  that  they  never  ot-.ise  a.n- 
eeiiding  tin-  Kalo:ig«>si,  though  at  times  they  are  more  abundant 
than  at  others  :  they  are  as  follows: 

MI  mile;  Mota  ;  I~i>a;  Ka.-jibo ;  Mololx.1 ;  Ix>]xMiilK' ;  Motoya ; 
('hipansa;  Mjiil'u  ;  Manda;  Mpala;  Moombn  ;  M  f< n  ;  Mende; 
S>u-e  ;  Kadia  nkololo ;  Ktiaka  ;  Nkomo;  Lifislia;  Sambamkaka; 
Ntomlo  ;  Sam  pa  ;  IJoiijjwe;  Mabanjja  ;  Ki-e;  Kuanya;  Nk«»u; 
Pair;  MoMiiiiru  ;  Litembwa  ;  Meehebere  ;  Koninehia;  Sipa ; 
Lornemlx1 ;  Molentra  ;  M  ironic;  Nfindo;  Penile. 

iSut  the  point,  perhaps,  of  mo-t  interol  in  this  inarch,  \vas 
the  ( 'hunpi,  \vliose  lin»ail  deep  \\aters\\eiv  found  choked  up 
\\itli  trees  and  aquatic  jilant^.  Here  the  distinguished  Dr. 
L:t''-rd:i  di'-d  ;  he  had  penetrated  a-  far  a<  ( 'a>einl>e  in  his  effort 
to  otal»li-h  a  route  from  the  Portugtu^e  jio«,-e>-ion>  on  the  east 
to  Angola. 

I  >[•.  Living-tone  \\a>  now  not  exadlv  on  familiar  i:r«iund,  but 
p«-rhap-  not  verv  nianv  dav-  travel  from  the  old  jiatli  along 
which  he  led  hU  Makololo  nianv  vear-  before.  '1  he  people  of 
'  '  i-«  tiili'-  are  ]>alonda,  with  whom  \\e  beuune  familiar  in  the 
•  •arlii-r  [.art  of  the  book. 

Pro!itin<_r  bv  the  benevoh nt  -ULrLr(  -1  i( »n  of  a  L'liide.  \\lio  had 
ln'i-n  jiick»-d  up  at  Kit'urwa,  I  *r.  Livingstone  >cnt  a  |H'i>ent  to 
appri-e  (  'a-emlx1  of  ln-<  approach,  and  \\aited  bv  the  ('huuiiu 
until  the  chief  mijht  send  one  nf'  \\\~-  counsellors  to  conduct 
!  h«-m  t>  >  hi-  town. 

Tli-  v  i-niep-d  on  the  'Jl>t,  and  met  there  one  Mohamad  bin 
Sal-  h,  \\l\n  \\;i-  had  li!->  re-idciice  in  the  coinitrv  durini;  (he 
rei<_'ii  of'  four  of  the  ("a-embe*.  lie  wa-  a  line  porllv  i>la<'k 
Ai'ali  with  pure  white  beard,  and  b\"  hi-  l"li(_r  re*-Hleiiee  had 
Lraiii'-d  coii-iderablc  influeiH'e  amoii^  the  I'alonda  a.-  al-o  at 
Tan^anvika.  Tin-  man  received  the  doctor  mo-i  '_rra<  imi-lv, 
and  t-'iid'i'd  him  a  hut  when-  he  miu'ht  abide  \\hile  In.-  own 
w  a-  l»«  I  ii'_'  e|-(  (•''  d. 

Til'   !•'•     th'-     doel.,1'     made     -ollle    Iio(e~.    \\hi''ll    the    reader    Will    \tf 

pl-a-'d  f"  ha\'e  in   In-  own   lairjua^e  : 

"Aii  \r:i!i  trader.  Mohamad  l»o_':inb,  \\h"  arrived  -even  days 
!•••!'•:•'•  n-  \\ith  an  !mm<n-'-  num!"-i'  o|  -la\'e-,  pre-eiitetl  a  meal 
o'  \i-rmic<  !!i,  ..il.  and  hon.  v.  a!-o  ca--ava  m--al  e.  ..•)-.  e«  I  -n  a-  to 
r  -••nibli-  -i  -•',.•••  ni'  M'  I  had  ii"1  ta-ted  IMUICV  or  -ujar  -nice  we 
left  L-il..-  \\a--a,  in  ><  -pi  em  I H  •(',  1  S'i'i  :  tln-y  had  c.  ,11.  e  too. 


THE    KINO  S    FOOL.  4(\] 

"  Neither  goats,  sheep,  nor  cattle  thrive  here, HO  the  people  an; 
routined  to  1'mvl.s  ;uid  lish.  Cassava  is  very  extensively  culti- 
vated: iii'lf  o  generally  is  this  plant  grown,  that  it  is  impo.-.-i-- 
l>le  to  know  which  is  town  and  whieh  is  country  :  every  hut 
has  a  plantation  around  it,  in  which  is  grown  eaxsiva,  IIolcus 
sorghum,  mai/.c,  beans,  nuts. 

"  Mohamad  gives  the  same  account  of  the  lliver  Luapula 
and  Lake  Ilcmba  that  .lumbe  did,  but  he  adds,  that  the  Cham- 
be/e,  where  we  crossed  it,  As  the  Luapula  before  it  enters  Hemba 
or  Bangweolo:  on  coming  out  of  that  lake  it  turns  round  and 
comes  away  to  the  north,  as  Luapula,  and,  without  touching 
the  Mofwe,  goes  into  Moero ;  then,  emerging  thence  at  the 
northwest  end  it  becomes  Lualaba,  goes  into  'Rua,  iiirms  a 
lake  there,  and  afterwards  goes  into  another  lake  beyond 
Tanganyika. 

"  'J'he  Lakelet  Mofwe  fills  during  the  rains  and  spreads  west- 
ward, much  beyond  its  banks.  Elephants  wandering  in  its 
mud  flats  when  covered  are  annually  killed  in  numbers  :  if  it 
were  connected  with  the  Lake  Moero  the  Hood  would  run  off. 

"  Many  of  ("asembc's  people  appear  with  the  ears  cropped  and 
hands  lopped  oil':  the  present  chief  has  been  often  guilty  of  this 
barbaritv.  One  man  has  just  come  to  us  without  cars  or  hands: 
he  tries  to  excite  our  pity,  making  a  chirruping  noi.-e,  bv  strik- 
ing his  cheeks  with  the  stumps  of  his  hands. 

"  A  dwarf  al-o,  one  Xofu,  with  backbone  broken,  comes  about 
u<  :  he  talks  with  an  air  of  authority,  and  is  present  at  all  pub- 
lic occurrences:  the  people  seem  to  bear  with  him.  He  is  a 
stranger  from  a  tribe  in  the  north,  and  works  in  his  garden 
verv  brisklv  :  his  height  is  three  feet  nine  inches." 

Casein  be  is  rather  a  title  than  the  name  of  an  individual  :  it 
signifies  general,  and  the  queer-looking  hard-hearted  individual 
who  wore  that  honor  at  the  time  of  Dr.  Livingstone's  vi.-it  did 
verv  little  credit  to  the  predecessors,  among  whom  niav  bo 
classed  the  splendid-looking  chief  \\h<>~e  portrait  we  are  able  to 
lav  bell  ire  the  reader.  His  people  seemed  to  have  caught  s<mie- 
thinu  <>f  his  har-h  temper  :  the  doctor  records  that  thev  v.  ere  the 
nrtst  sivaire  >et  that  he  had  ,-ccn  ;  without  the  lea.-t  justification 
thev  would  strike  each  other  most  angrily. 

Mohamad  bin  Saleh   had  a  low  opinion  of  hi-  lordshi|i  and 


4(52  A    LAND   TITLE. 

had  only  lxt>n  waiting  l«>r  Livingstone,  whom  he  luul  heard 
wa-  approaching,  in  order  that  tiny  might  go  on  together,  a.s 
earlv  a-  mnvenient  for  the  doctor,  to  t  jiji. 

( >nc  imite  interesting  tart  in  conmrtion  with  tin's  district, 
which  came  to  the  kin»\\  ledge  of  I  >i .  Livingstone,  is  recorded 
witli  eharacteri>tie  minnvne--,  a.-  follows: 

"An  old  man  nanii.il  IVrctnU-  i.-  the  owner  of  the  land  on 
which  ('a-eml*1  lia.-  built.  They  alway-  keep  nj»  the  tmdi- 
tional  ownership.  Munongo  i-  a  l>n»tht*r  tit  IVrvmlx1,  anil  he 
own-  the  countrv  t-a.-t  of  thf  Kalongtisi ;  if  anv  oiu-  wi.-h«il 
to  <ulti\a!c  land  he  would  aj>j>lv  to  thr-t-  aboriginal  chiefs 
i'or  it. 

"  (  >ld  IVremlie  i>  a  -ni-iliK-  man:  Mohamad  thinks  him  one 
hundrc*!  and  liliv  vcar-  old.  He  is  always  on  the  side  of  liber- 
aiitv  and  l;iii'in>-  ;  he  -;i\-  that  the  tir-t  ( 'a-emln1  wa-  nttrai'tetl 
to  M->|\\e  l.v  the  ahundanct-  of  ti.-h  in  it.  He  h;i-  the  uh-a  of 
ull  men  liein^  derived  from  a  -in^le  j«;iir. 

Here  is  another  HI nilj  whu-h  t hi'o\\  -  hglii  on  the  fiistoms : 

"Set-in  rain-.  A  nuinlK-r  of  tine  voini^  girl-  u  ho  li\i- 
in  (  a~< -inlw'-  compound  came  ami  fhonk  hand-  in  their  wa\  , 
which  i-  to  en.--;  the  ri'jht  .>\er  to  \oiir  left,  and  cla-j»  them; 
then  g:\-e  a  few  clap-  with  l>oth  hand-,  and  reju-at  tin-  cro-.-ed 
ela-p  :  th--v  \\ant  to  tell  their  children  that  they  ha\  »•  .-een  me." 

iJut  !i:ippil\  t'«r  the  \\orld,  \\hile  -illin^  dou  n  in  the  (oun 
of  (  'a-emlie,  I  >r.  Living-tnm1  dn-\\  up  a  paper  ;tddi  -c- -ed  to  l.ord 
( 'larend'-n.  sslii'-li  not  onlv  t'iirni-lu  -  a  m»-l  \a!ual'le  n'-nim:  •  f 
th,  e..iiiitrv  :il"ii'4  \\hich  \\  e  h;i\e  follouid  him,  hut  t-inhract^ 
iiin-t  in!'  i '•-[ iii_r  recital  of  incident*  :it  ('a-cndw-  court,  and 
ln.tiee  of  \..il>-  Mo.  ro.  Th!-  leti. -r  diil  m-t  reach  Lord  ( 'lan-n- 
d.iii  ;  i.iit  find-  the  lijht  \\  In  n  tic-  liniid-  are  hotll  dead,  and 

V,  e    e'|\e    it     ill    fllll,    at     the    fl-K    of    I',   pi   tllH'll. 

••  T.  .\\  s    n|'   i    \  -i  MIII     !"•  ,   //.,  ,     '..    .  1  --,7. 

I., i    '.'    ::7     1..  '  S  ,  nl,  .  -     1  .1^1. 

"Tin     I,1!  i.  IN     H'iMii:  \ni  i:    IHI     L\i:i.   "i     <   i   M:I.M-«I\: 

••  \1  ,     |. (.!:!•:      'I  lie  lir-t  "ppoi'tnnitv    I    had  of -i-ndin;-  a  leth-r 
t, ,  t  in    i  . .  :   !    i  ••  •  in  r>  d    iii    1  •  I  'i'iiar\    l.i-t .  \\  h-  n    I    u  a-  at  a  \  illa'_'« 
i-iill.d  M.-!«  !ii!n    !at.  In     I  1 '  v  :  l"ii'_'.  •".  I      !»!'  K.  ,  in  the  cotir 
\rv   1,1    .     !     L-.'tiiilia.       I. "M-. i.     I  .•  •!  i'  nilia.    I    iim_'ii    and     Itaua- 
Luiid.i    are    th'-    natii- -    i.-,     \-  h,,  h     the    .h-!r;.t-    ..|'   an    «li-\ated 


LI  KM  HA    8CEXEKV.  -jr,3 

between  tho  parallels  11°  and  8°  south,  tmd  meridian- 
28°-.'M°  long,  east,  arc  known.  The  altitude  of  tlii.s  upland  i-> 
from  four  thousand  to  six  thousand  feet  abo.'e  the  level  of  the 
sea.  It  is  generally  covered  with  f«»re>t,  well  watered  by 
numerous  rivulets,  and  comparatively  cold.  The  soil  is  very 
lih,  and  vields  abundantly  wherever  cultivated.  This  is  the 
r.itershed  between  the  Loangwa,  a  tributary  of  the  Zamboi, 
ind  several  rivers  which  flow  towards  the  north.  Of  the  latter, 
ihe  most  remarkable  is  the  ( 'hambe/e,  lor  it  assist.-*  in  the  Ibrma- 
tion  ol'  three  lakes,  and  changes  its  name  three  times  in  the  live 
W  six  hundred  miles  of  its  course. 

"On  leaving  Lobemba  we  entered  Ulungu,  and,  as  we  pro- 
eeeded  northwards,  perceived  by  the  barometers  and  the  courses 
of  numerous  rivulets,  that  a  decided  slope  lay  in  that  direction. 
A  friendly  old  l/lungu  chief,  named  Kasonso,  on  hearing  that 
I  wished  to  visit  Lake  Liemba,  which  lies  in  his  country,  gave 
his  son  with  a  large  escort  to  guide  me  thither;  and  on  the  I'd 
April  last  we  reached  the  brim  of  the  deep  cup-like  cavity  in 
which  the  lake  reposes.  The  descent  is  two  thousand  feet,  and 
still  the  surface  of  the  water  is  upwards  of  two  thousand  f:\v 
hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  sides  of  the  hol- 
low are  verv  steep,  and  sometimes  the  rocks  run  the-  whole  two 
thousand  feet  sheer  down  to  the  water.  Nowhere  is  then-  three 
miles  of  level  land  from  the  foot  of  the  dills  to  the  .-hore,  but 
top,  sides,  and  bottom  are  covered  with  well-grown  wood  and 
grass,  except  where  the  bare  rocks  protrude.  The  scenerv  is 
extremely  beautiful.  The  '  Aeasv,'  a  stream  of  fifteen  yard- 
broad  and  thigh-deep,  came  down  alongside  our  piecipitous 
path,  and  formed  cascades  bv  leaping  three  hundred  feet  at  a 
time.  These,  with  the  bright  red  of  the  day  s<-hi.-t>  among  the 
greenwood-trees,  made  the  dullest  of  mv  attendants  paii-e  and 
remark  with  wonder.  Antelopes,  buffaloes,  and  elephants 
abound  on  the  steep  slopes  ;  and  hippopotami,  crocodiles,  and 
fish  swarm  in  the  water.  (Jims  are  here  unknown,  and  the.-o 
animals  mav  live  to  old  age  it'  not  beguiled  into  pitfalls.  The 
elephants  sometimes  eat  the  crop-;  of  the  natives,  and  llap  their 
big  ears  just  outside  the  village  stockades.  One  got  out  of  our 
way  on  to  a  comparatively  level  spot,  and  then  stood  and  roared 
at  us.  Elsewhere  thev  make  dear  off  at  si^ht  of  man. 


4CA  ABOUT    THE    LAKE. 

"The  first  village  we  came  to  on  the  bunks  of  the  lake  had 
a  grove  of  palm-oil  anil  other  trets  around  it.  Tin*  palm  tree 
W:IM  not  the  dwarf  sjnrie-  seen  on  I~ike  Nva-.-a.  A  elu-ter  i>f 
the  fruit  pas>ed  the  door  of  mv  hut  whieh  required  two  men  to 
e-.irrv  it.  The  fruit  .-eeined  fjiiite  as  large  :is  tho-e  on  the  \ve>t 
eoast.  Mo-t  of  the  native-;  live  on  two  island?,  where  thev 

•  •ultivate  the  .-oil,  rear  goats,  and  eatdi   fi-h.      The   lake  i-  not 
larg« — from    fifteen  to   twenty    mile-  broad,  and    fp.m    thirty  to 
t'ortv  long.      It    is   the  receptaele  of  four  considerable  .-tream-, 
and  -ends  out  an  arm  two  miles  l»n>ad  to  the  N.N.W.,  it  i-  .-aid 
u»  Tanganyika,  and   it   mav  be  a  brain-h  of  that   lake.     ( )ne  of 
the  streams,  the    Ixmxua,  tlrivts  a  smooth   body  of  water  into 
the  lake  fifty  yards  broad   and   ten  fathom-;  deep,  bearing  on  its 
-urtaee  duck-weed   and   gra--v  i-Iand-.      I  cmild  >»•<•  the  mouths 
of  other  stntims,  but  Lr"t  near  enough  to  measure  the  Lofu  onlv  ; 
and  at  a  ford  liftv  miles  from  the  eonllueiiee  it  wa-o;ie  huniired 
vanl-  wide  and  waist-deep  in  the  dry  >ea-<>n. 

"  We  remained  -i\  weeks  on  the  .-!i»n  -  <-f  the  lake,  trvin-j  l<> 
jtiek  up  -ome  llesh  and  strength.  A  j»artv  of  Ara!»-  eaiue  int" 
'"IniiLTU  after  us  in  -eareh  of  ivory,  and  heariiiLi  tliat  an  I'ln^- 
li-hman  had  j)reeedetl  them,  natnrallv  iinjiiind  \\h< -i-e  I  \\a-. 
U'it  our  friend*,  the  Baulunnu,  su-peetinn  that  iiii-.-lii-'f  wa* 
!ii".int,  .-toutlv  denied  that  thev  had  ever  >erii  anything  ot'  tin- 
-i>rt  ;  and  then  IMK-JUUC  very  urgent  that  I  -h<>uld  L:"  |(i)  t<»one 
i't'  the  inhabited  islands  1'ur  -afi-tv.  I  regret  that  I  -u-peeted 
l:iein  ot  mteiiilin^  to  make  me  a  pri-oner  then',  \\liii-li  thev 
eould  e;i-ilv  have  done  l>v  remoyniir  t  lie  crnii  p.-  ;  Imt  \\ln-n  the 
viHa^'-r-  \\lio  deceived  the  Arab-  t«i!il  me  at'terwanl-  \\iih  an 
air  i»f  triumph  how  nieelv  thev  hail  managed,  I  -a\\-  that  thev 
rrt'l  oidv  !>•  en  an\  iou-  for  rn\  -afetv.  <  >M  thi'ee  oee;i~inn-  the 
-iui'r  fnendlv  di-|xp-itioii  wa-  -hown  ;  and  when  \\i'  \\ci,i  i-mmd 

!ue  \\-i--t  -ide  of  tile  hike  |||  rtnlef  t'l  e\;||||!lic  tin  .tHM  nr  bralH'll 
|!».,\c  I'.-felTed  to,  tile  ll<  ad  Iliall  at  the  ei.||tli:''!l'-e  ••('  the  |,..fu 

j.:-',i,  ,t(-d  -o  -tronj-lv  a_rain~t  mv  •join^  tin-  Arab-  had  l>e<n 
li_'!itin^r,  and  1  mi-jht  !>«•  mi-taken  lor  an  Arab,  and  kil!..i  - 
•hat  I  f.-!t  halt'-iiie!im-<l  to  l»«-!i.-\.-  him. 

"T'A"    A  rali   -lave-  entep-d  the  village  tin-  same  afti-rniH.n    in 

-  a! •'  h  of  ivorv,  and  <  olilinii'  d  all   If  hail  -a:«l.       \\  ••  i\«\\  altered 
irioiir-e,  intending    to    L:O    -oiith    al»uut    the   di-triet    di-tui  bed 


I'KACK-MAKINO.  .},;- 

\>y  tho  Arabs.  Wlirn  we  had  gone  sixtv  mile.-  we  heard  that 
the  liead-nuarters  of  the  Arabs  were  twentv-iwo  mile-  farther. 
They  had  found  ivory  very  cheap,  and  pushed  on  t»  the  \ve.-t, 
till  attacked  by  a  chid'  named  Xsama,  whom  tliev  l>eat  in  hi.-> 
own  stockade.  Thev  were  now  at  a  loss  which  wav  to  turn. 
On  reaching  Chitimba's  village  (latitude  S  57'  •"»•"/'  south; 
longitude  .'50°  20'  east),  I  found  them  about  six  hundred  in 
all  ;  and,  on  presenting  a  letter  I  had  from  the  Sultan  of  Zan- 
zibar, was  immediately  supplied  with  provi.-ion<,  bends,  and 
cloth.  Thev  approved  of  mv  plan  of  passing  to  the  south  of 
Xsama's  countrv,  but  advised  waiting  till  the  ('fleets  of  puni>h- 
nient,  which  the  Baulungu  had  resolved  to  inflict  on  Xsama 
for  breach  of  public  law,  were  known.  It  had  always  been 
understood  Unit  whoever  brought  goods  into  the  country  was 
to  be  protected;  and  two  hours  alter  my  arrival  at  Ohitimba's, 
the  son  of  Kasouso,  our  guide,  marched  in  with  his  contingent. 
It  was  anticipated  that  Xsama  might  flee;  if  to  the  north,  he 
would  leave  me  a  free  passage  through  his  countrv;  if  to  the 
south,  I  might  be  saved  from  walking  into  his  hands.  But  it 
turned  out  that  Xsama  was  anxious  for  peace.  He  had  sent 
two  men  with  elephants'  tusks  to  begin  a  negotiation ;  but 
treachery  was  suspected,  and  thev  were  shot  down.  Another 
efl'ort  was  made  with  ten  goats,  and  repulsed.  This  was  much 
to  the  regret  of  the  head  Arabs.  It  was  fortunate  for  me  that 
the  Arab  goods  were  not  all  sold,  for  Lake  Moero  lav  in  Xsama's 
country,,  and  without  peace  no  ivory  could  be  bought,  nor  could 
I  reach  the  lake.  The  peace-making  between  the  people  and 
Arabs  was,  however,  a  tedious  process,  occupying  three  and  a 
half  months — drinking  each  other's  blood.  This,  as  I  saw  it 
west  of'  this  in  1X51,  is  not  more  horrible  than  the  thirtieth 
dilution  of  deadly  night-shade  or  strychnine  is  in  homoeopathy. 
I  thought  that  had  I  been  an  Arab  I  could  easilv  swallou 
that,  but  not  the  next  means  of  cementing  the  peaei — marrvin^ 
a  black  wife.  Xsama's  daughter  was  the  bride,  and  she  turned 
out  very  pretty.  She  came  riding  pickapack  on  a  man's  .-houl- 
ders  :  this  is  the  most  dignified  conveyance  that  chiefs  and  then 
families  can  command.  She  had  ten  maids  with  her,  each 
carrying  a  basket  of  provisions,  and  all  having  the  same  beau- 
tiful features  as  herself.  She  was  taken  by  the  principal  Aral), 


4(;n  KF.AfTIFfl.    II FADS. 

I>ut  soon  showd  that  -he  preferred  her  father  to  her  husband, 
for  -ofinLT  prrpnrations  made  to  send  oil*  to  purchase  ivory,  she 
su-ijH-cted  that  her  father  was  to  Ix*  attacked,  and  made  her  escape. 
I  then  vi-ited  N-ama,  and.  a-  he  objected  to  many  people  coming 
near  him.  too';  onlv  three  of  mv  eight  attendant.-.  His  people 
wen-  verv  run  'h  afraid  of  (ire-arm-,  and  felt  all  mv  clothing  to 
*<•*•  it'  I  had  any  concealed  on  mv  per-on.  Nsamn  is  an  oh' 
man.  with  head  and  face  like  those  sculptured  on  the  A--vrian 
monument-'.  He  had  In -en  a  great  conqueror  in  hi-  time,  and 
with  how-  a"..l  armw-  was  invincible.  He  i-  said  t<>  have  de- 
-troved  ma:-'-  native  trader-  from  Taniranyika.  but  twenty  Arab 
'_run-  made  him  fie*1  from  his  own  stockade,  and  caii-ed  a  ureat 
-en-at:oii  in  the  eountrv.  He  \vas  much  taken  with  mv  hair 
and  wo«-!!e:i  clothing;  but  hi-  people,  heedless  of  hi-  scolding,  so 
pre--e<l  upon  u-  that  we  could  not  converse,  and,  after  promis- 
ing to  --lid  f>r  me  to  talk  during  the  ni-_rht.  (,iir  interview 
ended.  He  protui-ed  guides  to  Moero,  and  sent  u-  more  pn>- 
vi-ion-  than  we  could  carrv  ;  but  -howed  -o  much  di-trn-t  that, 
after  all.  we  went  without  hi-  a— i-tanee. 

"  N-ama'-  people  are  particularlv  hand-onie.  Manv  of  the 
men  have  a-  beautiful  head-  :!-  one  could  find  in  an  a--etnh'v 
of'  European-.  All  have  verv  fine  forms,  with  -mall  hand-  and 
feet.  None  of  the  we-t  coa-t  ii^liiii  — .  from  which  nio-t  of'  our 
idea-  of  the  ne_rfoe-  are  derived,  i-  here  to  be  -ecu.  NO  proj-- 
nath'iu-  jaw-  n«ir  lark-heel-  offended  the  sijjlit.  Mvob-cr\'a- 
tions  di-i'peniil  tin-  impre--ion  fir-t  obtained  from  then-marks 

of  \\'in\\ 1    lleade,  that  the  tvpical  ne^i-o  i-  -MMI  in  the  ancient 

l-'._rvpf iati.  and  not  in  the  uirjainlv  form-  \\hieh  -JTOW  up  in  the 
unhealthv  -wamp-  of  the  we^t  coa-t.  Indeed  it  i-  probable 
•lii!  thi-  upland  f'l'e-t  region  i-  the  true  home  of'  the  ne-j-ro. 
Ill-  '.votneii  ex  -ited  the  admiration  of  the  Arab-.  I  h«  v  have 
tiM".  -mall,  \\ell-fbrmed  f.ature-:  tliejr  trn-at  defeet  i-  one  of 

:'l -!,].!!,     V\  !li<-h    doe-    Hot     extend    to    the    next     tribe   ;      t|pv     f||e    tll«   i  "' 

t---'!i  '"  poin'-,  the  IIM--IC-,  and  that   make-  their  -mile  like  tha! 

"  N-am.i'-  cotintrv  i-  called  I'a\\a,  and  hi-  principal  to\\n  i-- 
;:i  la'irud--  ^  ."i.'i"  -outh.  and  loirjitude  "J'.i  'J I  '  ea-t.  l-'i-om 
'he  larji-  population  he  had  under  him,  Itawa  i-  in  manv  part- 
•Ae!l  i  •!••.- 1  red  o}'  tree-  tor  cultivation,  ami  it  i-  lower  than  I  'luii'Mi. 


GENTLEMEN    SLAVEIW.  .\t',~ 

beir.g  generally  nlxmt  three  thousand  feet  above  the  '-••a.  I/MI^ 
lines  of  tree-covered  hills,  raised  some  six  or  seven  hundred 
feet  al>ove  thes<-  valleys  of  denudation,  prevent  the  seenerv  from 
bein^  nionotonoiis.  I.arj;e  ^ame  is  abundant.  Klephaiits,  buf- 
faloes, and  /ehnis  ^ra/ed  in  lar^e  numbers  on  the  lon<^  -loping 
banks  of  a  river  railed  Chisera,  a  mile  and  a  half  broad.  In 
p>iii£  north  we  crossed  this  river,  or  rather  mar-h,  whieh  is  full 
of  papyrus  plants  and  reeds.  Our  ford  \vas  an  elephant'-  path; 
and  the  roots  of  the  papvrus,  though  a  earpet  to  the-e  animal-, 
were  sharp  and  sore  to  feet  u-uallv  protected  bv  .-hoe-;,  and 
often  made  us  shrink  and  flounder  into  holes  ehest-deep.  The. 
Chisera  forms  a  larger  marsh  west  of  this,  and  it  irives  o(T  its 
waters  to  the  Kalongosi,  a  feeder  of  Lake  Moero. 

"The  Arabs  sent  out  men  in  all  directions  to  purchase  ivory; 
but  their  vietorv  over  Xsaina  had  created  a  panic  amon^  the 
tribes  which  no  verbal  assurances  could  allay.  If  Xsaina  had 
been  routed  bv  tweutv  Aral)  <r.uns  no  one  could  stand  before 
them  but  Casembe;  and  Casembe  had  issued  strict  orders  to  his 
people  not  to  allow  the  Arabs  who  fought  Xsaina  to  enter  his 
countrv.  Thev  did  not  attempt  to  force  their  wav,  but  after 
sending  friendly  messages  and  presents  to  different  chiefs,  when 
these  were  not  cordiallv  received,  turned  oH'in  some  other  direc- 
tion, and  at  last,  despairing  of  more  ivorv.  turned  homewards. 
From  first  to  last  thev  were  extremely  kind  to  me,  and  showed 
all  due  respect  to  the  sultan's  letter.  I  am  u'lad  that  I  was 
witness  to  their  mode  of  trading  in  ivorv  and  slaves.  It  formed 
a  complete  contrast  to  the  atrocious  dealing  of'  the  Kilwa  traders, 
who  are  supposed  to  be,  but  are  not.  the  subjects  of  the  >am  • 
sultan.  I  f  one  wished  to  depict  the  slave-trade  in  its  ino-t  attrae- 
live,  or  rather  least  objectionable,  form,  he  would  a<vompan  r 
these  gentlemen  subjects  of  the  Sultan  of  Zanxibar.  It  ,ie 
would  describe  the  land  traffic  "in  its  most  disgusting  ph  v;e<, 
he  would  follow  the  Kihva  trmers  alon^  the  road  to  Xva-— :-,  or 
the  Portuguese  hali'-ca-tes  from  Tette  to  the  river  Shire. 

"  I\et>piu^  to  the  north  of  Xsama  altogether,  and  moving 
westwanls,  our  small  partv  reached  the  north  end  of  Moero  or 
the  Sth  of  Xovember  last.  There  the  lake  is  a  goodly  pice; 
of  water  twelve  or  more  miles  broad,  and  flanked  on  the  ea-t 
and  west  bv  ran«re.s  of  lofty  tree-covered  mountains.  The  ran  ire 


•lf>S  I.AKK    MOKRO. 

on  the  we-t  i-  the  highest,  au«l  is  part  of  the  eountrv  calK-d 
Hiia-Mo<-:-<i  ;  it  _ri\«^  "tV  a  river  at  its  in>rtli\u>»  riid  called 
Lualaha.  and  r.i-'-ive-  the  river  Kal«m<;<isi  (pronoimeed  l>v  the 
Arah-  K:inuiur\\'-i  '  "ii  tin-  ea-t  near  it.-  middle,  and  the  river- 
Lunpula  and  II»viik\ve  at  it<  southern  extremity. 

"The  ji  -int  "f  ni'i-t  intere-t  in  I  /ike  MIMTO  i-  that  it  forms 
one  of  a  i-!i.  4in  of'  laki--.  ecuincc'ted  l>v  a  river  -o;ne  Jive  hundred 
mi!«--  in  I'-n^th.  Fir-t  ot'all  the  ('IiainU'/t'  ri-e-  in  the  eotintrv 
(.{'  Maml>\ve,  N.I-',  of  Molemha.  It  tli-'ii  tlo\\-  v,,iith\ve-t  and 
w.-t  till  it  rear-In--  lat.  11  S.,  and  !«>n^.  '_'!•  I-'.,  \\lirn-  it  t"..nn- 
I/iI^e  I'x-nilia  >>r  I».in^\ve<>lo  ;  emerjin^  theinv  it  a--iime-  t!ie 
new  nani'-  Lnajinla,  and  ermu-s  down  hereto  la!!  into  MIM-I-O. 
(  )i,  ^oi;i._r  ,.':>  ni'  t!ii-  lalu1  it  i-  known  liv  the  nann-  LnalaKa,  a- 
it  tlou  •-  N.\\.  in  Una  to  tlii'in  another  lake  with  maiiv  i.-land- 
<tilled  I'l-'inre  op  !"!.•:)_'.•.  I>,-voiid  thi-.  inliirmation  i-  not 
po-inv.-  a-  to  \\li-  th'i-  it  enti-r-  Tan_ranvika  or  anotln-r  lake 
U-vo'id  that.  \\'h>  n  I  em--«-d  t  li--  (  'hamlu  •/(-,  t  In-  -imilaritv  of 
naii  M--  l.-ij  i;i«-  to  ii;i:ej:!)f  I  Int  t  hi-  wa-  a  lirntl«-h  "f  tin-  Xaml'.--i. 
Th>-  nativ-  ~.ild  '  NO.  Thi-  ur'"'~  s«iiithwe-t,  and  I'onn-  a  \vrv 
larj^e  \vati-r  tin  n-.'  lint  I  had  IM-OUMI-  pivjN»-M-.-M«d  with  iln-  id«-:i 
that  I/ii.'-  I.iffnlia  \\a-  that  Ildnhi  of  \\liii-h  I  had  h-  ard  in 
1  ^i'.."..  and  w«-  h:id  ln-.'ii  -o  -tarv.-il  in  thr--oii:!i  that  I  ^la-lK  -«-t 
inv  t.i<-«-  north.  "Ili"  rivi-r-like  proldn-jation  o!  l.ieml'a  nn^ht 
j_'c.  to  M...-P..  and  \\hr-re  I  eoiild  not  !'o!!o\\  the  arm  of'  Limdia. 
Tl't  n  I  v.  ork<  d  m\-  \\  av  to  thi-  Ink'-.  Since  .-(.inin^  to  (  ';  i-i-m  !'••'- 
tip-  t»-l  ini'-nv  "f  native-  ;n,d  Arali-  ha-  l"-i  n  -o  nnit«-d  and  •  "M- 
-j-tr-nt  that  I  am  lint  ti-n  dav-  fro;,i  Laki-  Ili-mlia,  of  I'.aii'j\\i  o!n, 
tha*  I  ••:i:i!!'r;  d^'ilit  it-  :i<-eiir:i«'V.  I  a:n  -o  tn'i-'l  of  <-\  p'-ra:  !oii 
\\  itlr  ill!  ;i  v\  .,;•.!  f;-,  .'u  h"'i.«'  or  attVU  h'  P1  e!-i-  lor  J  •',  ii  \  .  ;ir-,  1  !iat 
I  t;|ii-t  j"  !••  I  jiji  i»n  I  atijanvika  for  h  -I  NT-  !  •  '•  •;•••  di  >i:ij  an\  - 
t!i;i,_'  •  !-•  .  Tit'  l-anlv  and  emiutrv  ad;a'-.'iit  t"  Lak«-  1  '.an.:  u  ,  ,  .',0 


a;-i-    i'|".;i..      in      ..-    nn\\ 

h  i  v-  ii'i  n;-  di'  ii'-.  '1  h--  inhaliitan!-  -nil.  r  ^n-at  Iv  from  ~v,i  }],  ,] 
th\  n.  i  1  .j'and  or  I  >.  i  l,\  -hii'i-  Ii'  'k  ai.-l  i  1«  phantia-:-,  :-.!:d  thi-  i-, 
t!,"  r.iin1.  --a-'iii  and  VITV  nn-at«-  t"!'  tin-. 

••  \\  :,  at  ih-  'O'.MI-  •  ml  of  M,.,  10  v.,  u.  n  -,,  mar  ('a-  ml," 
iha»  it  "  i-  t'uo'i_'!it  \\-  1!  t',  a-e'Ttain  th--  1-  n/t!t  ot'  tin-  laki-.  and 
-..<  'i-,  [;.!,,  '....  \\  ,  .-mil'  'Up  Kit  \\i-.n  tip-  d-'id-li  lanj-  that 
fl  n.k-  th«-  i  .4-1  of  th'  !ak'  ;  hut  mountain-  and  plain-  ar«-  -u 


RFX'KITION    AT   CA8EMBE  fi.  ^ 

covered  with  well-grown  forest  that  we  could  seldom  -••••  it. 
We  reached  Cua»eml)e.'s  town  on  the  'JHth  Novcinlx-r.  It  Maud- 
near  the  north  end  of  the  I^ikeh-t  Mofwe  ;  this  is  from  on.-  to 
three  miles  broad,  and  sonic  six  or  seven  long:  it  is  full  of  sedgv 
islands,  and  abounds  in  fish.  The  country  is  quite  level,  but 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  west  of  ,Mof\ve  we  .-ee  a  long  range  of 
the  mountains  of  Una.  Between  this  range  and  Mofwe  the 
Luapula  flows  past  into  Moero,  the  lake  called  Moero  okata  = 
the  great  Moero,  being  about  fiftv  miles  long.  The  town  of 
Casern  be  covers  a  mile  square  of  cassava  plantations,  the  huts 
being  dotted  over  that  space.  Some  have  square  enelosiircs  of 
reeds,  but  no  attempt  has  been  made  at  arrangement  :  it  might 
be  called  a  rural  village  rather  than  a  town.  No  estimate 
could  be  formed  by  counting  the  huts,  thev  were  so  irregularly 
planted,  ami  hidden  by  cassava;  but  my  impression  from  other 
collections  of  huts  was  that  the  population  was  under  a  thousand 
souls.  The  court  or  compound  of  Casern  be — some  would  call 
it  a  palace — is  a  square  enclosure  of  three  hundred  yard-  by  two 
hundred  yards.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  hedge  of  high  reeds. 
Inside,  where  Casembe  honored  me  with  a  grand  reception, 
stands  a  gigantic  hut  for  Casembe,  and  a  score  of  small  huts  for 
domestics.  The  queen's  hut  stands  behind  that  of  the  chief, 
with  a  number  of  small  huts  also.  Most  of  the  enclo-ed  -pace 
is  covered  with  a  plantation  of  cassava,  CV/v?/x  y^/y/'T/x,  and 
cotton.  Casembe  sat  before  his  hut  on  a  square  seat  placed  on 
lion  and  leopard  skins.  He  was  clothed  in  a  coar.-e  blue  and 
white  Manchester  print  edged  with  red  baixe,  and  arranged  in 
large  folds  so  as  to  look  like  a  crinoline  put  on  wrong  side  tore- 
most.  His  arms,  legs  and  head  were  covered  with  sleeves, 
leggings  and  cap  made  of  various  colored  beads  in  neat  patterns; 
a  crown  of  yellow  feathers  surmounted  hi-  cap.  Kadi  of  his 
head  men  came  forward,  shaded  by  a  huge,  ill-made  umbrella, 
and  followed  by  his  dependents,  made  ohei-anee  to  Casembe, 
and  sat  down  on  his  right  and  l<-ft  :  vari'>us  bands  of  mu-idan.-* 
did  the  same.  When  called  upon  I  rose  and  bowed,  and  an 
old  counsellor,  with  his  ears  cropped,  gave  the  chief  as  full  an 
account  as  he  had  been  able  to  gather  during  <>ur  stay  of  the 
English  in  general,  and  mv  antecedents  in  particular.  My 
having  passed  through  Lunda  to  the  we.-t  of  Casembe,  and  vis- 


470  INTERVIEW    WITH    CASEMIIE. 

ito«l  chiefs  of  whom  he  scarcely  knew  anything,  exeited  most 
attention.  He  thru  as-ured  me  that  1  was  welcome  to  his 
eountrv,  »  1:0  \\h«  r«-  I  liked,  and  olo  what  J  chose.  We  then 
unit  itwo  IH>\-  carrvin^  \\'\<  train  In-hind  him)  to  an  inner 
apartment,  where  the  articles  of  niv  pn-scnt  were  exhibited  in 
tl«'tail.  He  had  examined  them  privately  IK-  fore,  and  we  knew 
that  In-  was  -ati-tied.  They  eon-i-ted  of  ei-jht  yards  of  oran^e- 
e<.  lured  -er^e,  a  lai'LTe  -tri|>ed  taldeeloth  ;  another  lar*M-  cloth 
made  at  Mant'hcstcr  in  imitation  of  \ve-t  eoa-t  native  manufac- 
ture, which  never  fails  to  i-xeite  the  admiration  of  A  nil  is  and 
nativts,  and  a  larire  riehlv  ^ildeil  eomli  for  the  hack  hair,  ,-uch 
:i-  hulics  wore  fiftv  year»  airo  :  this  was  i^iveii  to  me  \>\  a  friend 
at  Liverpool,  and  a.-  (  'nsenilx'  an<l  Nsjuua's  people  cultivate  the 
hair  into  lar^e  kiiol)-  l»eliind,  I  wa<  >ure  that  thi>  article  would 
tickle  the  fauev.  (  'a-cmhe  cxpn--  ed  himself  j»lea-f«l,  and  airaiu 
hade  me  welcome. 

"I  had  another  interview,  and  tried  to  dissuade  him  from 
selling  hi^  people  as  -lave-.  He  li-tencd  a  while,  then  l»rokr  otf 
into  a  tirade  on  the  ^natm--  of  ln>  coimtrv,  \\\<  power  and 
dominion,  which  Mohamad  Inn  Saleh,  \\ho  lia-  Keen  hen-  lor 
t-'ii  vear-.  turned  into  ridicule,  and  made  the  audience  laii'_rh  l»v 
ti'Hinir  how  other  Lunda  chief-  had  t_riven  me  oxen  and  -lu-ej), 
\\hile  (  'a>eml>c  had  on!v  a  jioor  little  ^uat  and  -'.me  (i-h  to 
l»---to\\.  He  in-:-ted  al-o  that  there  were  luit  twn  -<>verei^n-  in 
tin-  world,  the  Sultan  of  //m/iliar  ami  N'ictoria.  \\  hen  we 
\\ent  on  a  third  iM-ca-ioii  \»  lud  ('a-i-niln1  farewell,  In-  wa-  much 
!•---  di-tant,  and  <jave  nie  the  impression  that  I  could  -"(in  \><-- 
'•ome  lr;end-  with  him  ;  In1'  lie  ha-  an  un^ainlv  louk,  and  :in 
oiitsvard  -«juint  in  each  eve.  A  niinit"  r  <if  human  -hulls 
ad'inied  tli'-  entrance  t"  hi-  courtvanl  ;  and  -^ri-at  nnml"  r-  of 
i:  -  priii'-ipa!  men  havini;  their  ear-  cropped,  and  --imc  \\ith 
r'.'  ;r  hand-  Inppeil  n!l'.  -howed  h:-  liarl'aroii-  \\av  ot'  making  hi- 
ii-'«-r-  alti-ntive  and  h"ii'-t.  I  '-<.nld  n«ita\-"id  ind 


jr  '  1  1  !•  i  :•  ••   :  i.r  '(lli-t    him. 

"  T;  .-    I  '"!  '  M.'U'  -•    \-\-\'<  d  <  'a-'  ml--  Imij  :r_'o  ;  l.tit  a-  e.-p- 
<  '  .1-1  nil"     !  u:  1-  !-    a    n«  'A    t<  «u  n.  it    i-    i  «  it    ea-v  \<>  ti  \  «.n  the  exact 
»]••>'   »<i  'A  hi    h   -t::in_''r-    --ani''.        I  he    la-t    -•  V  n    (  ':i-etn!  M  >    have 
)i  '.<!    'li'-r    tn'Aii-  \\ithm    -<  V'  n    mile-  of   th<-    ]>re-ent    one.      1  >r, 
I  ,ai  erda,  (  J"\  -  rii"r  u!     I  ette(  on  t  he    XamU-^  wa.-    the  only  vin- 


FORM  Kit   CAS  K 


171 


ftor  of  scientific  attainments,  and  he  died  at  the  rivulet  called 
Chungu,  three,  or  four  miles  from  this.  The  spot  is  called 
Nshinda,  or  Inchinda,  which  the  Portuguese,  wrote  Lnccnda, 
or  I  Tcenda.  The  latitude  given  is  nearly  liltv  miles  wrong,  but 
the  natives  say  that  IK;  lived  onlv  ten  davs  after  his  arrival,  and 
if,  as  is  probable,  his  mind  was  clouded  with  fever  when  he  la-t 
observed,  those  who  have  experienced  what  that  is  will  n-adilv 
excuse  any  mistake  lie  may  have  made.  His  object  was  to  ac- 
complish a  much-desired  project  of  the  Portuguese  to  have  an 
overland  communication  between  their  ea-tern  and  we-tern 
possessions.  This  was  never  made  bv  anv  of  the  Portuguese 
nation;  but  two  black  traders  succeeded  partially  with  a  part 
of  the  distance,  crossing  once  from  ('a--ange,  in  Angola,  to 
Tot  to  on  the  Zambesi,  and  returning  with  a  letter  from  the 
Governor  of  Mozambique.  Jt  is  remarkable  that  this  journev, 
which  was  less  bv  a  thousand  miles  than  from  sea  to  sea  and 
back  aiz;ain,  should  have  forever  quenched  all  white  Portuguo.-o 
aspirations  for  an  overland  route. 

"The  different  Casembes  visited  by  the  Portuguese  seem  to 
have  varied  much  in  character  and  otherwise.  IVrcira.  the  tir-t 
visitor,  said  (I  quote  from  memory)  that  Case  tube  had  twentv 
thousand  trained  soldiers,  watered  his  streets  daily,  and  sacrificed 
twentv  human  victims  every  day.  I  could  hear  nothing  of 
human  sacrifices  now,  and  it  is  questionable  if  the  present 
Casembe  could  bring  a  thousand  stragglers  into  tin-  field. 
When  he  usurped  power  five  years  ago.  hi-  country  wa.-  den-ely 
peopled  ;  but  ho  was  so  severe1  in  his  punishments — cropping 
the  ears,  lopping  oil'  the  hand-;,  and  other  mutilation-,  .-•llin^ 
the  children,  for  verv  slight  offence-,  that  his  subject-;  gradually 
dispersed  themselves  in  the  neighboring  countries  beyond  his 
power.  This  is  the  common  mode  bv  which  tvrannv  i-  cured 
in  parts  like  these,  where  fugitives  are  never  returned.  The 
present  Casembe  is  verv  poor.  \\  hen  he  had  people  \vl;o  killed 
elephants  he  was  too  stin^v  to  -hare  the  profit.-  of'  the  -ale  of 
the  ivory  with  his  subordinates.  The  elephant  hunter-  havu 
either  left  him  or  neglect  hunting,  so  he  ha-  now  no  tu-k-  to 
sell  to  the  Arab  traders  who  come  from  Tanganyika.  Major 
Monteiro,  the  third  Portuguese  who  visited  ('a-eiube,  appears 
to  have  been  badly  treated  by  this  man's  predecessor,  and  no 


472 


A    HOT    FOUNTAIN. 


other  of  his  nation  ha-  ventured  *o  far  >imv.  They  do  not  lose 
much  by  remaining  awav.  for  a  little  ivorv  anil  .-laves  are  all 
that  CasxMiilx- ever  can  have  lit  sell.  About  a  month  to  the  wi-t 
of  this  the  |Hi.»ple  of  Katanga  smelt  copj*  T-ore  (malachite)  into 
large  bar-  >ha|nil  like  the  capital  letter  I.  Thcv  mav  In1  met 
with  ">}"  from  tit'tv  |H>niid.-  to  <>ne  hundred  pound-  weight  all 
over  the  country,  ami  tin-  inhabitant*  draw  tlie  eopjH-r  into  wire 
for  armlets  and  leglets.  Ciold  i-  al.-o  Ibnnd  at  Katanga,  and 
•peeiineii-  w«-re  lately  -cut  to  the  Sultan  of  Xan/.ihar. 

"A-  \ve  come  ilown  iroin  the  watcr.-hcd  towards  Taniranvika 
we  enter  an  area  of  the  earth'.-  surfatv  .-till  disturlx*d  bv  internal 
igneon-  action.  A  hot  fountain  in  the  c.>untrv  of  Nsama  is 
often  u-'-d  to  buil  <u--ava  and  mai/c.  Karthijuakes  arc  bv  no 
mean-  rare.  \\  e  experienced  the  >ho«-k  of  om- while  at  ('liitim- 
b:i'~  village.  an«l  thev  extend  a-  far  a-  ('aj-embe's,  I  felt  a-  il 
all  -at,  and  a-  hut-  would  not  lall  there  \\a-  ii"  -en-.-  ol'  danger  ; 
-o:ne  o('  them  that  happened  at  night  -<  t  the  lb\\ !.-  a  cackling. 
The  mo-t  remarkable  elll-i-t  of  ihi~  one  wa-  that  it  <-hanged  the 
rat«-  of  the  chronometer.-;  no  rain  fell  att<  r  it.  No  one  had 
:i' •<•••--  to  the  chronometer.-  but  in\-fir,  an-!,  a-  I  had  never 
!f-ard  of  tlii>  ell'ret  l».-fo|-i-,  I  niav  nicniion  that  one  \\hich  lo-t 
'.'.  ith  great  regularity  1  •)  dai!\.  \«-\  I"/;  another,  \\ho.-e  rate 
-I nee  l'-a\'ing  the  cua-t  \\a~  1  ."i  ,  '..-!  In' ;  ;i!id  a  third,  \\hidi 
_'i:ind  fi'  dailv,  stopped  altogether.  S<>ine  of  N-ama's  jieoplc 
;t-'-ril"d  t!ie  cartlnjiiake-  t"  the  hot  fountain,  bi  cati-c  it  .-ho\\ed 
nnn-nal  commotion  on  \\i<--<-  occa-ion- ;  an-'ilier  hot  ll-nntain 
'•M-t-  nearer  Fanganvika  than  N-aiua'.-.  and  \\e  jia>-<  d  one  on 

the    -hore,    of     Mo.ro.' 

"  \\  •  could  not  nnder-taiid  \\h\-  tin  native*  called  M",  ro 
iinieh  larger  than  Tan^ativika  til!  \\  e  -aw  both.  The  givati  i 
Like  l:e-  in  a  comparat  ivi-l\  narro-a  j  rough,  \\  H  h  hi-^li  land  on 
ea<h  ~ide,  \\hieh  i-  ainav-  \  i-ibl.  ;  1-nt  \\li.n\M  !.H,k..i  Mo.ro. 
f"  th«-  -oiith  n|  the  mountain-  of  Una.  on  '.he  \\e-i,  \\.-  have 
not  hmj  but  an  apparent  !\  bound  !•  --  -•  a  ic  >i  ;/•  'it.  lip  Lnapnla 
.i;id  llo\uk'.\e  torm  a  mai'-h  al  th'-  -oiuhern  lAtrilnilv,  and 
'  '.i-'  iiil»  di--uad<  d  in-  Iroin  .  n!.  i  iirj  it,  bu;  -i  nt  a  man  t"  guide 

flte       to       llitVerent         j.oinl-        of'      MO.    ;,,        I'.ll'lh'l         l]o\\I).  |-'l"!U        the 

h-'jht-    :i?    v.hi'h    t!r     -oiithi  rn    j'o::i..n-  \\  •  !'•     -<  •  n,    it    mu-!    be 
i    f-rtv  t"    -ixtv  mile-,    bi-..;..).       I'l-on.    tin-  -outh   end  oi    the 


VALUA1ILK    PUODU(TS.  .J73 

mountains  of  Ru:i  (i*  \'  south  lat.j  it  is  thirty-throe  mile* 
broad.  No  nativt-  ever  attempts  t»>  cross  it  even  there.  1 1* 
fisheries  are  of  great  value  to  the  inhabitants,  and  the  produce 
is  carried  to  great  distances. 

"Among  the  vegetable  products  of  this  region,  that  which 
interested  me  most  was  a  sort  of  potato.  It  does  not  belong  to 
the  solanaeeons,  but  to  the  papilionaceous  or  pea  family,  and  it.s 
flowers  have  a  delight I'ul  fragrance.  It  is  easily  propagated  bv 
small  cuttings  of  the  root  or  stalk.  The  tuber  is  oblong,  like 
our  kidney  potato,  and  when  boiled  tastes  exactly  like  our  com- 
mon potato.  When  unripe  it  has  a  slight  degree  of  bitterness, 
and  it  is  believed  to  be  wholesome;  a  piece  of  the  root  eaten 
raw  is  a  good  remedy  in  nausea.  It  is  met  with  on  the  uplands 
alone,  and  seems  incapable  of  bearing  much  heat,  though  I  kept 
some  of  the  roots  without  earth  in  a  box,  which  was  carried  in 
the  sun  almost  daily  for  six  months,  without  destroying  their 
vegetative  power. 

"It  is  remarkable  that  in  all  the  central  regions  of  Africa 
visited,  the  cotton  is  that  known  as  the  IVrnambtieo  varietv. 
It  has  a  long  strong  staple1,  seeds  clustered  together,  and  ad- 
herent to  each  other.  The  bushes,  eight  or  ten  feet  high, 
have  woodv  stems,  and  the  people  make  strong  .-triped  black 
and  white  shawls  of  the  cotton. 

"It  was  pleasant  to  meet  the  palm-oil  palm  (E'nix  (',nl,\<n- 
O/.N/N)  at  ( 'asembe's,  which  is  over  three  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  oil  is  sold  cheap,  but  no  tradition  exi-t.-> 
of  its  introduction  into  the  country. 

"I  send  no  sketch  of  the  countrv,  hecau.-e  I  have  U"t  yet 
passed  over  a  sufficient  surface  to  give  a  connected  view  of  the 
whole  watershed  of  this  region,  and  I  rejret  that  I  cannot 
recommend  anv  of  the  published  map-  I  have  -ecu  a-  giving 
even  a  tolerable  idea  of  the  countrv.  One  bold  con>truet"r  of 
maps  has  tacked  on  two  hundred  miles  to  the  northwest  end  of 
Lake  Nvassa,  a  feat  which  no  traveller  has  ever  ventured  to 
imitate.  Another  has  placed  a  river  in  the  same  <[ti;irt<T,  run- 
ning; three  thousand  or  tour  thousand  feet  up  hill,  and  named  it 
the  '  Xr.w  XAMMKSI,'  because.  I  suppose,  the  old  Xambe-i  run- 
down hill.  I  have  walked  over  both  the-e  mental  ab'.rtion-. 


474 


TL'KMNO    TOWARD    UJIJI. 


ami  did  not  know  that  I  was  walking  on  water  till  I  .-uw  them 
in  thi-  map-." 

The  letter  break-  of  hriv  abruptly.  In  reading  it  how  we 
an-  tempted  t<i  lament  tin-  dispensation  which  called  him  from 
earth  In-lore  he  had  U-«  n  allowed  to  present  to  tlie  world  from 
hi-  own  i*  n  tin-  connected  >torv  of  thi-  great  exjKtlition. 

Alter  >jn'iuling  a  month  in  hi>  town  the  doctor  >aid  good-bye 
t"  Ca-embe,  and  -et  nut  on  the  2l^d  of  December,  in  company 
\\ith  Mohamad  bin  Salt  li,  for  I  jiji.  Making  several  day-. 
JMiirney  fmin  ( 'a.-embe,  the  party  halted  at  a  little  village  called 
Kalmkua,  mi  a  parallel  with  a  large  i>land  in  the  lake  called 
Kirwa.  It  \\a-  the  la-t  day  of  the  year,  and  the  great  man 
looked  wearily  U-fore  him,  oj»pre->ed  with  the  uncertainty  of 
hi-  liyin^'  to  read  the  letter-  he  hoped  to  find  at  I  'jiji  ;  he  w:is 
j-iek  \»«.  Hi- only  fiMtd  f'/r  -ouie  time  had  been  ctuirsely  ground 
Nirghum  meal.  How  natural  it  wa.-  i'»r  him  l»  make  this  little 
note  in  hi-  journal  : 

"  Mohamad  |>re>cntcil  a  meal  ol'  finely  ground  porridge,  and 
a  ll>wl,  and  I  immediately  fi-ll  the  dillereiux1,  though  I  W;L-  nut 
grumbling  at  my  coarse  dishes." 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 
1868. 

"Only  Water" — Native  Indifference— -Charms  of  Moero— Lake  Scenery  -  In- 
diU'crenee  of  Arabs — Covctousness— The  ( >nly  Lesson  Learned— Kabwabwati-- 
I>reaill'nl  March  — Kvil.s  of  beinij  with  Aral's — Livingstone's  Inllu<-ii<-r  -Thit-v- 
iiU'  Slaves— A  Dead  Halt  LOIILJ  Delay-- Yankees  of  Africa-  Duplicity  ..I" 
Mohamad— -Desert  ion  of  Followers — Livingstone's*  'harity— truest  ionableChar- 
ity  -.Justice  as  well  as  Mercy  — Aral)  Trouble-makers— Mohammedanism  N'.t 
Taught  —  Not  Adapted  to  Klevate  Heathen — Christianity  it  Missionary  Creed  — 
1'owerlessness  of  Ceremonies— Power  of  the  Word—  Africans  Curious  and  ('an- 
tiou* — They  Need  the  (Jospel — Obligation  of  Christians— Dulness  of  Kabwah- 
wati — Livingstone  turns  South  — Arrives  at  Casemhe's— Cordial  Reception — 
Pleasing  Iteeol  lections — Deliverances — Leo]iard  Hunt  —  A  JH.*fiirrr>/—<  '/-</y,y,,  >!- 
F.'ireil  l\-Kt — Casembe's  Kindness — Mohamad  Bo-jharih — Starting  for  I.ak-- 
Heinlia — Discovery  of  the  (Jreat  Lake— Description  of  it— LakeSurroundiiiLr*'  — 
Wanyamwe/i  —  Northward  A.sjain  -  Coin  motions — \\'ar  —  Delays — Kracb  K:tl»- 
wabwati—  Abominations  of  Slave-Trade — I>attle— Kvils  in  ( 'amp  -\\'anyata- 
wezi  Women  During  a  Battle — Weariness — Christinas,  January  .list,  [sc,s. 

THERE  was  compensation  in  the  lake  ti>r  all  the  \\vari m>s 
and  the  want.  It  was  onlv  water  ;  the  native  trihes  and  trading 
Aral>s  alike  pronounced  it  so.  And  there  was  water  I'vervwhere. 
Thev  never  thought  of  the  Itumti/  of  its  l>n>ad  >nrfaee  niirrow- 
ing  the  loftv  mountains,  which  seemed  to  look  do\\u  with  ><» 
mneh  pride  on  their  nestling;  and  thev  never  tlmuj;!)!  of  tl>> 
grandeur,  when  their  eyes  rested  on  the  mi^htv  waters  ni-hii.i^ 
awav  through  the  deep  rent  in  the  mountains  on  the  north, 
gathering  new  strength  and  impetuosity  in  the  r. n-ky  chasm, 
leaping  and  roaring  in  the  wildncss  and  gladin .--  of  their 
release;  and  thev  never  eared  where  the  \\ater-  caiiie  tVoin,  and 
thought  no  more  of  the  river  which  (lowed  into  the  lake  on  the 
south  than  of  anv  other  river.  All  ot'thc-c  thin:j>  engaged  th-- 
thought  of  Living-tone,  and  wove  themselves  in  a  rc>i-tlc>s 
spi^ll  aliont  him.  His  journal,  in  its  bivvitv.  only  hint-  o{'  the 
delight  with  which  lie  -trolled  along  the  -lions  of  Mo.-ro.  In 
the  freedom  of  conversation  with  Mr.  Stunlev  vear-  attiM*,  he 


470  tk'K.NKKY    ON    J.AKK    MOERO. 

dwelt  with  enthusiasm  on  its  charming  scenery,  and  wo  will  soc 
bv-and-bv,  how  important  a  phut?  its  waters  held  in  his  theory 
of  the  hidden  fountain*,  which  the  curious  world  h:t-  Ixrn  set-k- 
ing iltiring  so  many  thousand  year.-.  Standing  on  the  north 
in  the  elran-.-t  dav,  with  a  strong  gla>s,  he  savs  he  et»uld  not 
sit.'  its  southern  ,-hore ;  but  it  was  narrower,  ami  the  eye  could 
wander  In-tween  the  loftv  ranges  on  the  east  and  we>t,  rotiinr, 
as  it  pha-ed,  on  the  lake.  The  ranges  whii-h  eonfine  it  tire  only 
twelve  or  fourteen  miles  apart  at  the  more  northern  portion, 
diverging  :is  thev  extend  southward,  to  embrace  a  broad  valley 
aen>~s  wliidi  various  streamlets  and  rivers  winding  slowly 
brin::  their  oll'ering-  as  to  a  <|iiecn.  Along  the  shores,  between 
the  mountain  and  the  water,  the  humidity  has  encouraged  the 
ginger  and  fern-  to  marvellous  profusion,  and  splendid  tropical 
foiv-t-  eloth  the  valley,  and  lend  their  eaiiopy  of  -hade  to  herds 
of  -porting  xehra-,  group-,  of  drow-v  elephants,  and  moii-lroiis 
huflaloe-,  and  in  their  deeper  gloom  conceal  the  lion'-  lair,  and 
the  -tealtliv  leopard,  waiting  to  -tirpri-e  hi-  pivv.  I:  i-.  -trance 
that  -M'-h  a  -pot  eoiild  ne\vr  tempt  the  Arab  iVoin  his  bloodv 
path  to  _M/e  a  while,  and  if  he  eaim-  (here,  it  i-  wonderful  that 
the  tuition  of  the  s<fiic  could  not  kindle  lofiiej-  thou-jht-  than 
hi-  dull  brooding  on  unholv  wealth.  It  i-  .-ailde-t  of  all  to 
think  upon,  that  in  the  fall  of  man,  his  >oiil  \\-a-  -o  m-laved  of 
-••Iti-hii.--.  that  all  the  eharms  of  nature  and  the  ^raee  of  (  ',,,,\ 
ean:iot  call  awav  hi-  gn-edv  thought  t'roin  train.  The  tribes 
dwelling  about  the  .-hores  of  the  lal.f  had  beeonie  thoroii'jhlv 
infeted  bv  the  Arab  spirit,  anil  wouhl  lie  or -teal,  or  liL'ht  i'»r 

the    [il'>-!    trillillj   ehallee    to    Meecr   a    IrnVellel'.         Tile   iloelor    had    a 

hi;  of'  e\peri<  nee  \\iih  I  hem  iii  ero»-ini;  the  Kalon^-o^i  river, 
u  !ii'  h  form-  t he  northern  1" nmdarv  of  (  'a-einbi-'-.  eoiint i-v  ;  the 
people  o|'  the  village  nil  it-  ban  k  u  e|-e  at  tir-t  the  imper-«  iiiat  ion- 
of  lovaltv,  ai.d  jiro!e-ted  that  lhe\  i-oiild  Hot  convey  an\  of  th- 
mi  .»{'  the  eoiintrv  f"r  ('•  ar  o}'  di-pl-  :i-iir_'  »!:••  ehiel';  but 
!--.  \  ieM,-d  |e;nli!v,  \\hen  a  !•  e  \\a-  -ii'/^i-tiil,  and 
iite  r.-fu-al  to  e.irrv  him  nver,  the  patriot-  almo-t 

loU-      in      eolllpetitii'll       f"l-     t  1 1 '  •    "  I  •  •!  1  bt  t  M  !      --r\I<e.         '|he 

f  ••-.'.  hieh    h:id    b-en    broii.'ht    to  1  M  ar  on  | h«-«'  uii- 

!,.,,]    n»t   -i\  .  n   them    loftier  1 1 _'ht-  ;   if  they   \\rre 

.t  •  nt  in  !  v  ab-oi  I ..  .  1,  'till  in  eat  in^  and  drinking  it   \\  a>  hardly 


UNFORTUNATE    ASSOCIATIONS.  .J77 

hotter  to  ho  imitating  only  that  meanest  j>ossiblc  trait  of  a 
higher  manhood  which  was  displayed  in  the  eovetousness  of  the 
Aral)  traders. 

Between  the  lake  and  the  village  of  Mual>o,  which  is  distin- 
guished by  the  strikingly  euphonious  name  Kabwabwati,  there 
was  an  extensive  plain  which  the  rains  had  flooded,  and  there 
was  no  avoiding  it.  The  mud  was  generally  ankle-deep,  and 
for  lour  long  hours  the  sick  and  hungry  man  dragged  along  this 
dreadful  path,  whose  horrors  were  varied  onlv  l»v  the  occasional 
accident  of  stepping  into  the  deep  track  of  the  elephant.  Hut  • 
when  the  Luao  was  reached  the  wading  became  more  -erious, 
and  for  a  full  quarter  of  a  mile  the  water  flowed  quite  waist- 
deep.  This  stream,  like  manv  of  those  of  Africa,  imparts  won- 
derful fertility  to  its  border  lands  bv  its  regular  overflows;  but 
the  people  must  accept  the  benefits  they  receive  as  the  price  of 
health  and  comfort.  The  inhabitants  seemed  exceedingly  sus- 
picious of  the  travellers,  and  often  closed  the  gates  of  their  stock- 
ades on  their  approach.  On  some  accounts  it  may  have  secured 
a  providential  thing  that  Livingstone  had  fallen  into  the  com- 
pany of  Arab  traders:  it  seemed  to  be  a  protection  to  him.  But 
we  can  not  suppress  our  regret  that  he  could  not  have  continued 
entirely  separated  from  them  that  his  life  might  have  .-tood  out 
before  the  people  among  whom  he  passed  in  unclouded  contrast 
with  that  unprincipled  class.  It  was  hardly  to  be  expected  of 
the  ignorant  natives  that  they  would  distinguish  nicelv  between 
the  character  of  men  travelling  as  companions,  or  be  VITV  much 
impressed  with  the  professions  of  generosity  and  love  of'  Dr. 
Livingstone,  while  bv  his  side  sat  men  who  acknowledged  no 

. 

creed  but  self-interest,  and  were  held  in  dread  and  dete.-tation. 
It  is  a  striking  evidence  of  the  singular  capacity  of'  Living-tone 
for  his  chosen  work,  that  at  so  great  a  disadvantage  he  Mill  .-uc- 
ceeded  in  winning  the  confidence  and  friend-hip  of  -o  many  of 
the  rude  residents  of  these  distrustful  villages.  It  wa>  only  by 
the  most  constant  vigilance  that  he  could  do  it.  The  -lave-  of 
Mohamad  were  continuallv  stealing  something  from  tin  patches 
by  the  way,  which,  though  of  trilling  value,  must  be  n  turned. 

Kabwabwati  was  reached  on  the  loth  of  Januarv,  in  the 
midst  of  the  rainy  season.  The  plain  which  he  had  already 
crossed  was  hardly  a  specimen  of'  the  condition  of  vast  tract-  of 


47S  YANKEES    OF    AFRICA. 

eoi'ntry  l>et\veen  Kabwabwati  and  I'j'ji  at  such  a  season,  and 
he  soon  learned  that  an  inevitable  delay  confronted  him. 

The  town  in  which  he  had  this  gloomy  pro-pect  presented  an 
Unusually  motley  apjH'aramv,  and  cherished  ill-  of  darker  shade 
than  belong  to  a  purely  African  village.  Indeed,  it  w;is  only 
where  the  native  African  had  Ix-cn  corrupted  bv  unprincipled 
agents  ol'  the  outside  world  that  I>r.  Living-tone  e.xperiewed 

'much  difficulty,  exivpt  Mich  as  wa>  inseparable  I'rorn  his  manner 
of  life  and  his  purpo-e-.  This  place  W:L-  a  principal  depot  in 

•the  Arab  trade.  One  of  old  Mohamad's  sons  lived  there,  and 
his  subjects  made  a  irreat  demonstration  on  the  approach  of  the 
•»ld  man.  Besides  the  Arab-,  there  were  present  in  the  town 
a  number  of  Wanyaimvexi,  tho-e  "  born  trader-  of  central  Africa," 
who  arc  dcscrilk.'d  -o  ablv  bv  Mr.  Stanlev  a*  the  "  Yankees  of 
Africa,"  the  invariable  attendant-  of  Arab  exjK'ditions.  The-e, 
addi-d  to  the  natives  of  the  town,  made  a  population  a-  unprom- 
ising as  could  be  desired.  '1  he  universal  te-t:monv  \\a-,  how- 
ever, that  it  wa-  impo--ib!e  to  iva<-h  the  Tan_ran\  ika  during  the 
rainy  -ea-on.  The  low  land-  were  all  flooded  and  in  manv 
plan's  would  l>e  found  deeper  than  a  man'-  head.  If  the  doctor 
had  only  known  thi-  while  at  <  'a-embe'-  he  mi^ht  liave  remained 
(here,  which  would  have  bei-n  infmiti-lv  preferable  jf  he  nin-t 
In-  delayed  ;  but  he  had  ha-teiied  from  t h'-m,  and  turned  hi-  back 
on  the  Lake  Banirweolo  in  hi-  <  ajeme—  to  reach  l"|iii.  And  it 
was  exceeding  unpleasant  to  know  that  he  had  be, -n  deceived 
into  tin-  mistake  bv  Mohamad.  Tho-e  who  are  iwculiarlv 

-Ilieere     tllelll-elves     ai'e     In..;-,-     ea-i!v    (he   victim^     of    i  ll-i  llcel'i  t  V. 

Tii--  m-'-t  L'eneroti-  are  often  t!i"  readie-t  prev  of  the  -elti-h. 
Mi',  h  a-  1  >:  .  Living-tone  had  travel!, -d.  and  -kilful  a-  h--  mav 
have  b< ••  :i  in  anal\vin_r  human  nature,  hi-  o\\n  action-  alwav^ 
d:-;'l.i\«d  til--  frank,  alni-i-t  childlike,  beautv  of  -implieitv  an<l 
ifinlid'-nee.  So  fir  \\a-s  h--  from  meriting  -n-p:cion,  he  c..iild 
-u-p-  •  t  n-i  one. 

•I  man  u  ho  had  welcomed  him  -o  i-ordiall  v  at  (  '.i-iiu  !>,'-, 
a:i'l  ii.--.-i-d  ^r<-at   pK-a-nre  ;n  tie-  IIOJM- of   havin-j  hi-com- 

I  'in.  '.'.hn  --eiii'-l  '<i  po-l|ioiii-  In-  o\vn  departure  111 
r  tip-  \\i-he-  '•;  Li vin_'-toiie,  had  n-a!l\  IK-I-II  a  pn-oiier 
ii  t  h<  t- 11.1.  ii  ma  1 1\  %'ear-,  and  had  >  >nl  \  -<  i/i-d  t  in  ,  »••  a-  ion 
i  b\  tii<  e,,iiiin_'  -i!  an  Ln-jli-liinan  ?-•  -«  \n<-  In-  le'i-.i^-. 


PKSKIITKD    HY    KOLF.OWKKH.  -17'J 

This  his  Aral)  shrewdness  found  means  to  accomplish.  The 
chiet'tain  had  been  brought  somehow  to  associate  hi>  pri-oner 
with  the  visitor,  and  to  understand  that  his  relca>e  would  lie  a 
special  favor  to  Livingstone.  The  deception  which  he  hud 
practised  might  have  found  some  justification  in  the  judgment 
of  charitv  on  the  ground  of  his  being  so  wearv  of  his  long 
imprisonment,  even  though  it  had  occasioned  such  inconvenience 
and  loss  of  time  to  his  deliverer;  but  the  unqualified  depravity 
of  his  character  was  exhibited  in  the  set-ret  influence  he  exerted 
on  the  minds  of  the  fe.v  followers  of  the  man  to  whom  he  owed 
his  libertv.  The  doctor  was  wholly  unconscious  of  this  until  In- 
had  been  nearly  three  months  at  Kabwabwati.  lie  then  deter- 
mined to  return  southward  to  Casein  be,  and  goon  if  po.-nbh- 
to  Lake  Bemba  before  going  to  lTjiji.  To  his  utter  a.-toni-h- 
inent  his  men  refused  to  go;  even  Susi  and  Chuma,  us  he  after- 
ward told  Mr.  Stanley,  deserted  him  for  a  time.  It  then 
appeared  that  the  Arab  had  been  improving  those  month-  to 
sow  discontent  in  the  minds  of  those  faithful  men,  that  he  might 
join  them  to  himself. 

Dr.  Livingstone  was  very  generous  in  his  judgment  tin  the 
conduct  of  his  men.  '*  Thev  were  tired,"  he  said;  two  IMIIL: 
years  they  had  been  following  him  about  the  land  ;  they  wen- 
not  interested  in  the  great  problem  which  summoned  all  hi- 
energies;  thev  knew  nothing  of  the  heavenly  inspiration  which 
moved  him  to  sacrifice  himself  for  the  well-being  of  thai  heathen 
world:  it  was  a  beautiful  generosity;  it  wa.-  like  the  man. 
J$ut  it  strains  our  charity  considerably  to  sign  his  mod-ratr 
sentence  upon  Mohamad.  Men  are  to  be  pitied  for  their  wicked- 
ness, but  the  totalness  of  depravity  cannot  be  its  ap«>!i>.ry.  It 
is  not  easily  decided  precisely  where  human  judgment  mav  In- 
come seven1,  but  it  may  be  questioned  whether  the  hiirhe-t  LT'"»1 
of'  the  guilty  himself  is  not  sacrificed  sometime-;  to  tin-  i"v  the 
Christian  has  in  tenderness  and  ehari'v.  N'othinir  i-  mn:v 
fascinating  in  human  character  than  the  capacity  which  (!»!'• 
Spirit  g'ves  to  rise  above  resentment.  We  lovr  to  eontemplat'- 
the  marvellous  grace  of'  (iod;  we  can  ira/e  upon  it  witlimi; 
comprehending  it  and  be  glad,  but  the  majr-tv  i>f  hi-  ju-ticf  i- 
there  as  well;  in  our  weaknc--  we  i-annot  t'ullv  harmoiii/"  thr-c 
attributes.  The  brow  of  justice  seems  harsh  ;  we  cannot  com- 


4SO  MOHAMMEDANISM    AND   CHKISTIANITY. 

prebend  its  eompletetu'ss  now,  atul  therefore  we  cannot  rcali/c 
its  Ix/autv  ;  ami  bemuse  we  cannot,  we  .shrink  from  it.  It  may 
IK:  that  decided  and  severe  condemnation  of  a  transgressor  is  not 
MI  ineou-i.-tcnt  with  the  pro|>er  Christian  spirit  as.  we  sometimes 
think  it  i-. 

Whatever  we  decide  alnmt  it,  the  mischievous  Mohamads  will 
go  (in  making  trouble  for  everybody  in  Afriea,  until  the  nobler 
influence.-*  of  a  truer  civili/.ation  than  that  they  .-o  |xx>rly  repre- 
.-«  nt,  at  -eeond  hand,  have  raided  the  vietims  of  their  unscrupulous 
cupidity  above  a  priee  that  they  ean  oiler,  and  they  are  o  im- 
pelled to  retire  before  the  growing  brightness  of  a  light  they  have 
n<it  sought  to  kindle  with  their  Koran,  and  eotild  nut  if  thev 

Would.      TheV  have  extended  their  inllllenee  over  vast  extent.-  of 

Afriean  territorv,  and  have  preserved  everywhere  their  tli.-tine- 
tive  customs,  dre.-s  and  religion.  The  Koran  is  their  oraele  ; 
t»ut  of  it-  pa^es  the\-  draw  all  their  deeisions,  from  the  mn.-t 
trivial  to  the  LTi'ave-t.  Uut  they  have  not  seemed  txHKvrnnl  to 
ilitl'tix*  their  religion  amou^  the  natives  of  the  eouiitrv,  and  old 
Mohamad  bin  Saleh,  who  with  all  hi-  villanv  wa-  a  devout 
Mohammedan  and  ijuite  intelligent,  a»mvd  I  >r.  I.i\ 'in^-toiie 
that  no  attempt  had  ever  been  made  to  proselvti/e  the  Afriean^. 
The  K'iran  i-  n«'Ver  tran-lated  ;  the  Aral)-  never  feel  themselves 
etllled  on  to  propagate  their  doetnne-:  thev  are  <uilv  traders. 
It  i-  idl«-,  therefore,  for  anv  traveller,  even  <»ne  .-<>  houorablv 
a--oei:iti'.l  with  Afriean  exploration  as  ( 'aptain  Uuiton.  to  inli- 
mate  that  tln-\-  would  Iw  better  mi.-'ionarie-  for  Afriea  than 
v 'hri.-tian-,  oidy  beeau-e  their  Koran  would  not  brinir  tln-m  in 
eiiiifliet  with  ih«'  prevailing  jxilygatnous  eiHtom  of  the  eonntrv. 
'lii«-  religion  whieh  aee.inimodate-  it»i'lf  to  the  |ir« -judiee-.  ot  a 
pi-opli-  \\ill  Hi.;  mure  I'a^ilv  obtain  authoritv  over  them. 

IK.-  ab-olute  aiita^roni>m  o|  ( 'hri>tianit  v  (or  e\i-rv  unliolv 
ili-jni-itioii  of  man,  bringing  it  fi< •<•  to  lie  <•  wiili  all  hi-  pri'ju- 
di'-i--,  ha-  b««-n  a  e..n-|nenon-.  element  of  it--  po\\er.  Su<-li  i- 
hum an  uaiiif-,  that  th<-  mo-i  radieal  mia-ni'«-  an1  tie  nio-t 
i-jl'fi-tu.il  in  th«  ii'  reinrmat  io;i- ;  and  tin-  remarkable  indilli-n  n  e 
o!  tlii-  Alii'  HI  t'i  tie  i  TI  •  1 1  '•!  tie-  Aral'  Mo'iammitlan,  wlnli-  he 
i-  a! -.\  a1.  -  •  nr  "'i-  abnut  <  hl'i-t  lanit  v,  i-  an  ii  !>i-t  rat  n-n,  at  hand, 
i.f  lie-  t'n!!y  "i'  tii'-  id>-.i  uf  iiiiHlifving  tie  n  <|uin  im-nt-  of  tin- 
!  1. 1  -.in:  t  hi  -  j  >ai  't  i''u  !ar  i  -Hi  id  it  ion-  of  part  i<'U  lar  eonitn  unities, 


TIIK   OPKN 

that  the  peoj)le  may  be  brought  gradually  to  the  ab-olnU-  ex- 
cellence of  the  divine  law.  It  is  the  very  genius  of  the  go.-pel 
that  men  be  convicted  of  sin,  by  the  dreadful  contract  of  them- 
selves with  God,  while  the  marvellous  purity  of  his  law  i.->  ila.-hed 
upon  their  depravity. 

Hut  whatever  the  possibilities  might  be,  the  indifferent*  of 
the  followers  of  Islam  seals  the  utter  wort  hies- ne.-s  of  .Moham- 
medanism as  an  agency  of  civilization,  even  to  .-ay  nothing  of 
saving  men.  It  is  indispensable  that  the  missionary  have  it  in 
his  heart  to  win  men  to  his  creed  or  his  purposes.  Christianity 
is  more  intensely  concerned  about  that  than  the  religion.-  of  the 
heathen,  because  the  conviction  of  its  absolute  and  nniver.-al 
importance  to  mankind  is  inseparable  from  it.  Wherever  there 
is  a  Christian  he  feels  that  every  other  man  ought  to  be  one,  and, 
as  between  heaven  and  hell,  seeks  to  have  them  so. 

It  is  naturally  supposed  by  many  that  the  African  is  peculiarly 
susceptible  to  the  influence  of  formula  and  ceremonies,  but  the 
experience  of  the  Mohammedans,  whose  forms  and  ceremonies, 
displayed  in  indifference,  have  been  unheeded,  and  the  experience 
of  the  Roman  Catholics,  whose  wonderful  zeal  has  been  in>uf- 
ficient  to  awaken  an  interest  in  their  pageantry  and  their 
mummeries,  contradict  the  supposition.  Ignorant  as  thev  mav 
be,  Dr.  Livingstone's  experience  was,  that  the  Africans  always 
wanted  to  know  what  they  were  about.  It  was  the  mi-take  of 
Mohammedan  and  Catholic  that  both  carried  a  sealed  book  in 
their  hand,  and  the  power  of  Christianity  wa-  manit'e-tly  to  a 
great  extent  in  its  open  Bible.  Wherever  that  wonderful  lmok, 
or  any  part  of  it,  is  given  them,  or  its  teaching-  are  read  to  them 
in  their  own  language,  the  deepest  interest  is  awakened.  Ami 
even  when  their  ungodly  passion.-  ari-e  in  rebellion  a_rain.-t  it, 
it  is  the  theme  of  their  conversation,  (iod  ha-ten  the  dav  when 
his  word  may  be  in  the  mother  tongue  of  all  those  tribes,  and 
his  mighty  power  be  seen  in  their  hoiv  living  and  felt  in  their 
peaceful  hearts.  Oh,  how  thev  need  it  ! — oppressed  with  all 
superstitions,  imprisoned  in  ignorance  and  de-pi-ed  bv  men! 

Naturally  enough,  their  superstition  i-  alwav-  most  active 
about  the  grave.  Death  is  full  of  terrors  to  them.  Tin  v  have 
many  foolish  ideas  about  the  connection  of  mo-t  trilling  matters 
with  the  dreaded  approach  of  the  destroyer.  How  precious  will 


Js2  rilKlM-IAX   OBLIGATION. 

!w  esteemed  the  truth,  which  sets  them  free  from  oppressive 
cu-toms  and  kindles  a  tire  on  their  hearthstones  from  which  all 
hideous  imaginations  .-hall  .-hrink  abashed!  And  let  Chri.-tians 
rememljcr  that  they  cannot  delegate  the  redemption  of  Africa 
from  its  degradation  to  other- ;  no  luitnan  sv.-tem  i-i  equal  to 
tin-  work,  and  no  other  creed  can  in-piiv  its  adherents  for  it. 
Dr.  Living-tone  felt  this  more  and  more  as  he  |>eiiet  rated  its 
my.-tcrious  wilds  farther  and  farther,  and  gained  deeper  in-i'^ht 
into  the  character  of  the  people  there. 

]>ut  the  reader  will  lx-  impatient  of  this  delay  at  Kabwabwati, 
rt-  the  doctor  himself  wa-.  Ix-t  him  reflect  that  while  we  have 
detained  him  a  low  minutes  with  our  reflection-,  tin-  great  trav- 
eller waited  Ion-;  months  in  th:it  heathen  town,  with  no  other 
diversion  than  could  IM-  found  in  the  dull  monotonv  of  provid- 
ing tor  dailv  food,  and  cherishing,  with  sick  heart,  the  deferred 
Lojte  of  reaching  I'jiji  and  fiftr/-*  sometime  or  other. 

Mohamad  resisted  with  innumerable  arguments  hi-  projwisi- 
tion  tn  s_'o  -niitli  ;  and  not  -ati-tied  with  emtiuraging  hi-  own 
men  to  desert  him,  detaine<l  some  of  ('a-emhe'-  men  who  had 
come  mi  bu-ine--  to  the  town.  Tim-  annovrd  and  on  traced  bv 
one  proft-s-ing  trieiid-hip,  deprived  of  hi-  followers,  another  man 
nii_r!it  have -.in-rendered  hi-  purpo-e.  Living-tone  wa-  not  the 
man  to  b«-  torn-d  into  mea^uns  so  ea-ilv,  and  aeeordinjjlv  he 
-i  i  '>',}'  \\itli  live  uf  hi-  attendant.-,  who  were  finallv  nmvcd  to 
repent  of  their  dislovaltv. 

\\  iih  ^reat  diffieultv  he  retnioil  his  -tep-  toward  ( 'a-einne'-. 
'I  he  river-  were  all  in  tloinl,  and  everv  dav  .-aw  the  little  partv 
i  Verv  now  and  then  alnio-t  \\ai-t-<lecp  in  water,  beneath  \\hieh 
bhfk  tenaeion-  mud  .-••«•  in ed  to  j^ra.-p  their  feet  at  everv  -tep 
v,  itli  inalieimi-  caserne--.  Suuetimes  the  lloinl  -\\ept  alx.nt 
t!i'-in  i-h'— t-deep,  and  all  articles  \\ere  of  ne<-c~.-itv  carrier!  on 
t'i'-  h'-.i'l;  and  lo  add  to  the  di-e. .mti irt-  of  their  march,  tin- 
l'f"i'l  IH-II-  (>)'  taiiL'l'd  tropical  ve-ji  tat  ion.  \\hieh  flanked  iim-i 
••!  the  -tieam-,  often  entangled  them.  \\  <  can  n-adilv  bi  lii  ve 
tint  -ucli  a  iiMirifv  ii»uld  onlv  be  |MTiormeil  willm^lv  under 
tii--  in-p:rati"ii  •>}'  the  lut'iic-t  cnn-eerat  ion.  The  mere  novelty 
(,t  the  -(,H'-  eniild  not  conipeii-ate  |,,|-  ..ijch  -uflerin^-  a-  wen* 
in-bir'd.  A  in. in  lor  that  rnijjht  *av  truly,  "  When  I  -ce  I'embji 
I  \\ill  -i-e  rinlv  \\at<r;  and  1  uill  not  ford  a  flood  to  find  u 
fountain.'' 


A    DISCOVERY.  1<3?, 

At  length  tlif  journey  was  accomplished,  am]  tli*  sorrows  of 
the  way,  when  they  were  past,  were  not  so  dreadful,  and  plen- 
um! memories  of  little  oddities  and  kindnesses  of  the  |>cople 
were  brighter  in  the  retrospect.  One  time  he  had  been  sepa- 
rated from  his  party  and  thoroughly  bewildered  in  the  tall 
tangled  grass;  but  though  he  eonld  not  find  the  old  friends  he- 
found  new  ones  at  the  neat  little  village  of  a  woman  named 
Xvinakasanga  (or  Mother  Kasanga),  who  was  kind  a>  «-he 
should  be  with  such  a  name,  and  made  the  stranger  welcome 
until  his  party  found  him.  Another  time  a  generous  matron 
spread  for  him  a  generous  banquet,  and  her  dignified  husband, 
when  he  knew  what  his  spouse  had  done,  signified  his  approval 
of  her  act  bv  saying  to  the,  stranger  in  the  heartiest  manner, 
"That  is  your  village:  always  go  that  way  and  eat  mv  provi- 
sions." 

Once  he  was  sitting  by  the  path,  when  some  wood-cutters, 
came  along  ;  noticing  that  tliev  turned  out  of  it,  he  signaled 
them  not  to  be  at  that  inconvenience,  but  thev  insisted,  a>  it 
would  be  very  impolite  in  them  to  allow  their  shadows  to  fall 
on  the  stranger. 

While  on  the  way  he  made  a  notable  discovery  which  some 
may  consider  important.  It  had,  he  declares,  never  occurred 
to  him  that  there  could  ever  be  anv  possibility  of  turninir  the 
fashionable  hole  through  the  cartilage  of  the  nose  to  any  account 
better  than  that  of  holding  some  ornament,  and  it  mav  be 
safely  assumed  that  no  lady  in  the  land  who  ha<  supported  an 
analogous  fashion  since  she  was  a  child  would  ever  dream  that 
the  rude  African  would  be  first  to  find  out  that  thi-  perforation 
might  be  utili/ed  as  a  needle-holder  ;  but  so  it  is.  l'p"'i  the 
registered  observation  of  a  distinguished  traveller,  we  -ay  it, 
and  we  hope  it  may  be  considered  generoii<  in  us  to  congratu- 
late our  few  advocate's  of  ear-boring,  that  thev  mav  at  lea-t 
have  the  glory  of  seixing  on  a  valuable  Miggestion.  though  it 
may  seem  fdr-fctchctl.  \l\\i  more  than  ail,  as  he  looked  \>:vk  "ii 
the  drearv  journey,  there,  had  been  inanv  ill-  endured;  but  he 
remembered  that  there  lay  every  where  concealed  in  tho-e  torc-ts 
creatures  of  ferocious  pas-ions,  and  swimming  in  tho-r  rivers 
were  monstrous  enemies  of  man.  God  had  not  only  inclined 
the  hearts  of  rude  men  kindly  toward  him,  but  kep1  him  fruiu 


4^4  A  i.KOPAiin  HTNT. 

wild  Iv-a-ts.  This  (loliverniux1  was  more  notable  b^au-e  tin 
fl<M>ds  having  I'M  reed  these  mon-ter-  from  their  jun-^io,  thev 
were  more  uumcrou-  and  ravenous  than  UMial  on  the  higher 
land.  Many  vil lap's  had  been  broken  up  bv  them.  Tin-re 
were  a  -r.  at  many  leopard-  inf«-tin^  -ome  of  the  di-triets  whieh 
he  had  ero— ed.  The.-e  cruel  blood-thirsty  animal-  lurk  about 
the  path-,  hidden  bv  the  tall  waviii'j  'jra--.  and  -print;  on  uti- 
Mi-jMM-tm ^  men,  and  many  a  victim  never  return-  to  tell  the  -torv 
of  hi-  encounter.  Farther  south,  in  ( 'a Hrc  Land,  leopard  hunt- 
in  i;  rank-  hi^h  in  tin-  li-t  of  wild  and  perilous  delight-.  A 
lx>dy  of  nn-n  take  a  j>o-i;ion  m-ar  -ome  opening  in  the  foiv-t. 
where  the  undergrowth  is  -mall  or  -<-an-e  ;  other-  with  pack-  of 
do«rs  bej-in  the  hunt  at  a  distaixv,  and  approach  through  the 
fore-t,  verv  mii'-li  after  our  we-tcrn  plan  of  driving  fi>r  deer. 
The  tremendous  havinj-  of  do<_r-  and  veiling  o|'  men  i-  the  tii>t 
intimation  the  \\ai;m^  hor-« -m<  n  have  that  a  leopard  ha-  !x-cii 
found;  riders  and  hor.-es  are  e(juallv  impatient  a-  the  ba\  in_r  ami 
veiling  draw  nearer  and  in-arer.  And  when  tin-  bounding:  object 
of  their  <  |  II-  -t  enter-  t  h'  •  «jla<  le,  a\\  a  v  thev  tlv  iii  -\\  ift  pur-nit  ;  the 
tli.-maved  animal  finding  m-w  foi -,  -tram-  evcrv  mii-de,  hi- 
splendid  r»be  'j!i-teniiiur  in  the  -un-hine,  and  hi-  e\  e-  lla-hin^ 
like  lire,  while  the  well-trained  -ti--  d-,  rejoicing  in  the  elia-e,  bear 
their  -!iou;in'_r  rider-  in  advance  of  tin-  having  jiaek.  And  it  i- 
:MI  odd  e!ian«-e  tin-  leopard  h::-  of'lii',,  if  a  practi-cd  ( 'atl'rc  lit't- 
hi-  -p>  ar.  Hut  th'i'e  i-  not  much  time  lor  review  in  a  bu-v 
lite,  and  1  >i .  Living-tone  had  alr-ad\-  lo-t  .-o  mii'-h  time  that 
In-  \va-  mop-  ea'_rer  than  ever  to  pn  --  forward  with  hi-  \\ork. 

('a-'-n:!>e  receiviil  him  \  <r\  e;racioii-lv,  \er\-  much  t<>  the 
chagrin  o|'  a  e.-rt.iin  croppeil -cared  babbler,  \\lio  had  exerted  all 
hi-  abiliii---,  uith  the  per-i-ten- v  of  an  attorne\-,  to  make  a 
"  '  a---  '  out  u|  t!ii-  ••  F,n^b-li  comi!i'_r  a  -••cond  time. 

'!':.  •  h:..-f  re.i-ivd  hi-  plan-  flir  \;-it:n-  Lake  ]},  mba  v.  rv 
kindlv,  and  oil!  reil  no  o1  .;.i-t  ;or-  ;  b'lt  he  could  not  iindi-i  -tand 
arv.  ino:.  th-in  hi-  -ubji-cf-  \\liv  mi  eartJi  the  l-'n^li-hmaii 

•ho'l!'  I     •_"'       "     t  I!'    o',|!v    to    -e<-    \V  afef,    \\  lien     1 1|.  p  •    \\  ;•-     rUoU_rll     -o 

t..-n! i    !  •       •  •-.       I'.-i!    a-   tar  a-  h-    wa-  able,  )n-  ~(-.-med  willing   to 

!';it!|.  r  t!.. •  .!•  -  -  of  hi-  vi-itor.  NN'ithall  hi-  « -rti'-hv  h--  had 
.1  v--;n  of  manlv  /•  n- -ro-it\'  in  him.  and  impro\-i  d  :_rtvaf!v  on  ae- 
ijiruntaii' ••.  Tni--,  h--  «on!d  n^t  ri-<-  al-,\-e  t!,.-  -up.  r-tit  ion 


"CIHU>   OF   THE   SULTAN."  4%$ 

which  he  obeyed  in  taking  a  man's  head  olf  of  whom  lie  might 
dream  several  times,  and  hi:  was  unscrupulous  about  the  rxceu- 
tion  of  witches;  hut  there  were  other  decision*  of  his  which  in- 
dicated that,  outside  of  the  influence  of  his  su|>cr.-tition.H,  In; 
could  :i|»p!v  sound  reasoning  in  dispensing  jn-ti<v. 

We  will  not  weary  the  reader  with  the  recital  of  the  trilling 
incidents  of  camping  and  village  receptions,  which  were  only 
such  as  his  own  imagination  may  now  suggc-t.  Dr.  Living- 
stone left  Casembe's  on  the  llth  of  .June,  after  having  suHi-ml 
another  delay  of  more  than  a  month  by  the  dilatoriness  of  that 
worthy  gentleman.  Marching  almost  due  south  a  little  more 
than  a  month,  lie  was  rewarded  at  length,  on  the  Jsth  of  July, 
ISb'H,  bv  the  discovery  of  one  of  the  largest  lakes  of  central 
Africa.  lie  had  not  travelled  much  more  than  one  hundred 
miles  from  Casembo,  no  more  than  an  average  of  three  miles  a 
day  ;  and  besides  the  tedionsness  of  the  journey,  had  endured 
manv  hardships  and  faced  many  dangers  ;  but  as  it  had  been  M> 
many  times  before,  the  joy  of  realizing  his  hope  made  him  for- 
get the  weariness  and  the  perils  he  had  endured.  Over  a  large 
part  of  the  country  he  had  found  scattered  villages  of  YVanyam- 
wezi,  who,  acknowledging  the  authority  of  the  sultan  at  Zan/i- 
bar,  were  very  respectful  and  helpful.  They  have  >ettled  in 
the  countrv  onlv  as  traders,  and  though  thev  frequent lv  render 
great  service  by  beating  back  the  Ma/itu,  who  lind..-uch  ea.»v 
prey  in  the  aborigines,  they  are  viewed  with  jealou-  eve  by 
both  the  Balonda  and  the  I>aitawa.  These  tribe-  look  with 
fear  and  envv  on  their  growing  power,  and  not  unfrwjuently 
these  foreign  settlers  are  obliged  to  turn  their  weapons  on  them 
in  self-defence.  One  of  the  pleasantest  of'  the  \Vanvamwe/.i 
head  men  was  Kombo  Kombo,  whose  stockade  wa>  on  the-  bank 
of  the  Chiberase  river.  The  doctor  came  there  in  the  mid-t  of 
a  general  jollification,  and  was  most  bountifully  supplied  with 
pombe  and  food,  and  when  lie  expressed  his  re-let  that  his 
goods  were  all  gone  und  he  had  nothing  to  pav  with,  hi.-  uvncr- 
ous  host  assured  him  that  lie  expected  nothing,  he  was  "a  child 
of  the  sultan  ar.d  ought  to  furnish  all  the  doctor  needed." 

Copper  and  the  iron  ore  so  often  mentioned  were  seen  ai 
different  places;  and  the  doctor  speaks  of  crossing  irras.-v  plains 
and  ranges  of  splendid  hills;  there  were  neat  little  garden? 
29 


486  THE   CHOICE   GKOVE. 

frequently  seen,  surrounded  by  high  he»lgi  -,  and  one  day  his 
attention  was  drawn  to  a  .Military  forest-grave,  a  little  rounded 
mound,  strewn  over  with  flowers,  and  a  mimixT  of  large  blue 
lii-ads;  and  there  wa-  a  path  which  showed  there  were  those 
who  loved  the  -pot.  I  low  naturallv  hi<  thoughts  Hew  awav 
acn>--  tin-  broad  wilderness,  and  rivers,  and  valleys,  to  the  grave 
under  the  great  baobab  tree,  where  he  had  laid  the  Ixxly  of  his 
o\\  n  "Marv."  And  it  wa-  not  strange  either,  that  he  thought 
of  hi-  own  death,  and  it  wa.-  like  him  to  -av,  ju-t  what  he  did 
-av  :  "Thi-  i-  the  -ort  of  grave  I  should  prefer:  to  lie  in  the 
still,  -till  fore.-t,  and  no  hand  ever  disturb  my  Inmes.  The 
i: raves  at  home  alwavs  seemed  to  me  to  be  miserable,  especially 
tho.-e  in  the  cold  damp  clay,  and  without  elbow-room:  but  t 
have  nothing  to  do  but  wait  till  He,  who  is  over  all,  decides 
where  I  have  to  lay  me  down  and  die."  There  were  sonu 
-ceiie-  of  thi-  journey  which  had  -tamped  themselves  on  hi.- 
memorv  among  the  things  never  to  l»e  forgotten,  ever  burnint, 
memories  which  everyday  impelled  him  to  greater  exertion  and 
more  earne-t  prayer-  in  behalf  of  Africa.  Never  had  he  been 
more  alfceN-d  bv  the  honor-  of  the  slave-trade.  In  one  partv 
he  -ay- : 

"Six  men  -lave-  \\»-re  -inging  a-  if  thev  did  not  frel  the 
weight  and  degradation  of  the  slavr>--tick-.  I  a-k.-d  tin-  cause 
of  their  mirth,  and  \\a-  told  that  they  n -jo  iced  at  the  idea  *  of 
eoni!t)Lr  b:i'-k  at'i- r  "lath  and  haunting  and  killing  tho.-e  who 
had  -old  them.'  Some  of  the  words  I  had  to  inquire  about  ; 
t-'f  in-t.uicc,  tin-  meaning  of  tin-  word-  Mo  haunt  and  kill  bv 
-pirit  jiower  ;'  then  it  wa*,  '  Oh,  von  senl  me  oil'  to  Maiiira  <  -«  a- 
•,!.]..  i-  otf  v .  h.-ii  I  die.  and  hack  I  -hall  come  to 
.ill  voti.'  Then  all  joined  in  tin-  chorn-,  \\liieh 
of  . -aeh  vendor.  It  t--!d  n«.t  of  fun,  but  of  the 
bit;-  rn«--  and  t-  ar-  of  -Meh  a-  wi  n  oppn  -~.-d,  and  on  tin  side 
•  ri--i-r  th-T'-  wa-  a  p-iu-r;  there  be  higher  than 

I:    i-    ind«'d,a-    Mr.   Waller    -ay-.    "•  \tra-irdinary    to    n-.ti--e 
.•  f.-'ai  ali-«  ne.-  - .}'  :•!!    |-ri-|e  an- 1  enihu-ia-ni  "  \\  ith  \vhi--h    I  >r. 

'.  iii-j  •'"!  e  u-eord-  t  he  di-eo\  i  r\    nl    tin     _ri-:it    Like,  for  a  sight 

i  iii 

"i  - 1   v"   much.      |  le 


LAKK    HAXfJWEOIX).  48? 

the  village  of  Mapuni)  and  saw  the  shores  of  the  lake  fur  the 
first  time;  thankful  that  I  had  come  safely  hither." 

He  found  the  people  about  the  lake  very  kind,  and  although 
he  was  forced  to  tell  them  that  his  gcxwls  were  all  done,  tliev  did 
not  hesitate  to  snpj)ly  his  wants.  The  chief,  Mapuni,  showed 
him  all  the  resp<vt  he  could  have  shown  had  he  l>een  loaded 
with  presents,  and  readily  furnished  a  guide  for  exploring  the 
lake.  A  great  inanv  Babisa  were  found  residing  about  the  lake, 
having  made  their  homes  among  the  native  tribes. 

On  the  l(,*th  the  doctor  came  to  the  village  of  Masantn,  who 
lives  on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  and  having  secured  a  canoe,  with 
no  little  trouble,  however,  he  was  enabled  to  visit  several  of  the 
islands.  The  water  of  the  lake  was  of  a  deep  sea-green  color, 
nowhere  exhibiting  the  dark  blue  of  Nyassi.  It  was  much  to 
be  regretted  that  he  could  make  no  measurements  of  its  depth, 
but  he  had  been  compelled  to  leave  his  line  where  one  of  hi-  men 
forsook  him  just  after  leaving  Kabwabwati.  The  waves  on  the 
lake  ran  high,  and  when  strong  winds  are  blowing  it  would  be 
quite  hazardous  to  venture  on  its  surface  with  a  canoe.  It  was 
ascertained  to  receive  the  waters  of  the  Chambe/e  on  the  east, 
and  find  its  outlet  through  the  Luapnla  into  Moero.  By  the 
best  estimates  which  he  could  make,  the  doctor  decided  that 
Bangwcolo  must  be  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long  bv 
about  eightv  miles  broad.  The  country  immediately  around 
the  lake  he  reports  to  be  "  flat,  and  verv  much  denuded  of  trees 
except  the  motsikiri  or  mosikisi,  which  ha-  fine  dark,  dense  foli- 
age, and  is  spared  for  its  shade,  and  the  fatty  oil  yielded  l>v  it.- 
seeds."  Manv  people  were  seen  boiling  trreat  pot.-  of  this  oil, 
which  is  greatly  valued  bv  them.  There  wa.-  not  much  of 
noveltv  in  the  home  scenes  about  the  lake  :  "  fishing,  weaving 
nets,  beating  bark  for  cloth,  nursing  babie-,  and  .-moking  to- 
bacco, is  all  the  story." 

Having  spent  alreadv  more  time  than  he  had  given  him.-elf 
at  the  lake,  he  started  north  again  on  the  '><>th.  He  was  par- 
ticularly anxious  to  rejoin  Mohamad  Bogharih,  with  whose 
trading  party  he  had  come  down  from  Casembe's,  in  the  hope 
that  the  movements  of  that  party  might  furnish  him  an  e-cort 
north  again.  But  when  he  reached  the  village  of  Kombo 
he  found  serious  difficulties  surrounding  him,  a:;d  the 


4S3  DREADFULLY    RELK'.IOUS. 

Aralis  them-elves  greatly  |>erplcx"d.  The  whole  eonntrv  w:1.-* 
in  confusion.  ('aseml>e  ami  Chiknmbi  had  joined  their  fore^ 
against  tin-  A  rain,  ami  the  Wanyamwe/.i,  whom  thev  classed  a-* 
A  rain  ;  ami  th«--e  foreigners  were  arranging  to  '(iiit  the  eoun- 
try.  It  was  clear  tliat  in  this  ilisturlnil  state  of  atlairs  so  small 
a  party  :is  I  >r.  Livingstone's  could  not  hope  t<>  pa-s  through  the 
country,  and  he  could  only  wait  until  all  went.  While  thev 
were  wai:;:)^,  Bin  O:nar,  a  Suaheli,  came  from  the  ( "hamlje/e, 
and  tin-  tuo  trader-^  united  their  forces  and  l»e<ran  their  retreat 
northward,  in  conipanv  with  about  four  hundred  \Vanvamwexi. 
And  with  this  party  Dr.  Livingstone's  destiny  was  cast  for  the 
time,  and  with  them  he  reached  Kahwabwati  on  22d  Octolx.>r. 
He  had  spent  manv  vears  in  Africa,  l»ut  never  had  endured  in 
*ix  months  -o  manv  annovanccs,  or  face«l  so  manv  dangers.  In 
compensation  for  these  perils  and  troubles  he  had  sueeeeded  in 
forming  the  connecting  link  between  hi-  central  and  more 
southern  travel-  bv  mingling  a'jain  with  the  snltj^-ts  of  Mati- 
amvo,  whom  we  remember  as  the  paramount  chii'f  of  ih« 
Halonda,  and  he  had  satisfied  himself  about  the  eontintiitv  (|I 
the  chain  of  waters  from  the  I,o-an/\ve  raii'_rf,  whi^h  form-  the 
watershed  -outh  of  Lake  Tang:inyika,  extending  sonthwc.-t- 
vvard,  tir-t,  with  ih"  ('hamb'-/.e  into  Lake  Hangweoln,  thence 
northward  in  the  Luajmla  (which  he  named  We!»l»'-  river  fi>r 
hi-  old  tri'-nd  in  KiiLrland  \,  on  into  the  Lake  Moero,  and  a\\av 
U'»rthwanl  in  lie-  Lnalot'u  a_rain  ;  thu-  ti\in_r,  a-  he  t'ondlv  be- 
li.-ved.  lh"  -oiire.--  from  which  he  would  ultimately  bi-  able  to 
d'-i-'-ii'l  :n'o  til--  ^p-at  mv-ti-riou-  Nil'-,  vi«'torious  over  all  its 
winding-.  We  cannot  imagine,  then-lore,  that  he  regretted  the 
jourm-v,  i-v<-n  a*  -o  ^r<-at  a  <-o-t  of  time  and  comfort  and  :ib-»- 
!ut'-  v;!a!:t\-.  I'.':!  hi-  trial-  were  ii"t  end' d  at  Kabwab\\  a!i. 
I  he  MI- -n.  with  whom  lip-  gradual  lo--  nf  In-  o'vn  follower'  and 
the  ••  xpcnd  it  nre  of  all  hi-  •_"""!-  had  linallv  left  him  an  in  vo!n:i  • 
t:ir\-  a-->»  !.!'••.  \\t-ri-  far  from  b«-inur  -u«-li  -peeimi-n-  of  hnmaiiifv 
ft"  h"  \\ou!d  hav--  -•  !••<•»• -d.  'rh«'\-  «•••!•••  #i»i'ninn  \rab  trad-:-, 
in  V'-t  :n_r  *!i'-:r  el.i'li  and  b«-ad-  :n  iv»rv  and  -la\'e-.  Trading 
u  h<  n  tie1.  ''.'i'd.  -'-i/iii-.,'  \\hat  thev  dared,  and  fi_rht ni'_'  \\h<-n 
th<".'  mu-f.  I  >i  •  adlullv  religion-,  lnif  -i-em;ii'_'  to  lind  nothing 
in  th'-ir  iT'i-d  b'M  •  ••  >\  i -toii-iii--. ,  and  making  their  i-onf- --ions 
rnilv  at  {!.••  '-it  of  -.  It  nit-  r<--(.  Lit--  with  them  wa-  ^i\  in^  thX 


THK   SLAVE-TRADE.  489 

great  champion  of  Africa's  oppressed  millions  an  insight  into 
the  tnule  which  he  so  despised,  which  he  could  never  have  had 
without  that  dreadful  experience;  and  it'  the  kindness  which  he 
received  personally  at  the  hands  of  .some  of  those  engaged  in  it 
moved  him  to  gentler  judgment  of  the  men,  the  horrors  of  their 
trailie,  revealed  every  day  more  clearly,  only  intensified  his  ab- 
horrencc  of  it,  and  aroused  him  to  wire  unrelenting  denunci- 
ations of  everything  which  encouraged  it.  He  saw  it  in  its 
degrading  influence  on  the  minds  of  its  victim*;  he  saw  it  en- 
couraging the  most  unnatural  cruelties  where  tenderness  and 
love  should  have  been  implanted  ;  he  saw  it  confirming  the  most 
oppressive  superstitious  and  the  most  barbarous  customs  ;  he  saw 
it  cultivating  the  meanest  selfishness,  and  filling  the  minds  of 
the  people  with  suspicions;  he  saw  it  fomenting  dissensions  and 
creating  wars;  he  saw  it,  not  content  with  the  restrictions  of  its 
own  mock  legitimacy,  rising  at  times  with  unpardonable  bar- 
barity and  desolating  whole  districts  under  color  of  some  pre- 
tended loss.  Most  gladly  would  he  have  gone  on,  and  escaped 
the  dreadful  spectacle  which  sickened  his  sonl  continually,  but 
he  must  inevitably  have  fallen  a  victim  to  the  justly  incensed 
tribes  who  assembled  from  all  (quarters  to  avenge  themselves  on 
the  traders. 

He  (bund  himself  in  the  midst  of  a  regular  war,  without 
being  in  the  least  responsible  for  it,  and  being  utterly  unable  to 
exert  any  influence  for  peace;  the  people  had  received  -o  manv 
provocations,  and  endured  so  manv  wrongs,  even  according  to 
the  low  standards  of  justice  which  the  traders  tliem~elve-  had 
set  up,  that  the  Arabs  and  all  their  dependents  were  thoroughly 
hated,  and  some  recent  barbarities  of  the  parties  sent  out  by 
Mohamad  Bogharib  had  been  the  t'atal  spark  which  set  th*» 
whole  country  abla/.e.  The  doctor  describes  some  of  the  scenes 
of  this  war  (jiiite  vividly  : 

"  On  the  L'.'M  of  November,"  he  savs,  "  we  were  assailed  bv  a 
crowd  of  Imbo/hwa  on  three  sides;  we  had  no  stockade,  but  the 
men  built  one  as  (list  as  the  encmv  al!o\\vd.  cutting  down  tr-'e~, 
and  carrying  them  to  the  line  of  defence,  while  nthrr-  kept  t  he  a<-- 
sailants  at  bay  with  their  guns.  I  lad  it  not  b.  en  for  the  croud  of 
Wanvamwe/i  we  had,  who  shot  vigorously  with  their  arn>\\  -.  and 
occasionally  chased  the  Imbozhwa,  we  should  have  been  routed.' 


tW  VI-TO»;;.Y-CKOSS    FELLOWS." 

He  himself  »li»l  not  go  near  the  fighting,  but  remained  in 
his  house.  Among  tin-  -trangcst  lea  tun's  of  tlie  scene  was  the 
part  taken  by  tin-  women.  "  Tliey  could  l>e  seen,"  continues 
die  doctor,  "  everywhere  moving  up  and  down  the  village  with 
feieves  a<  it'  winnowing;  and  singing  songs,  and  lullilooing  to 
cneoiirage  their  hu.-band.s  and  friends  who  were  fighting.  Kach 
nad  in  her  hand  a  braneh  of  Fieus  imlic-a,  which  they  waved 
cun-tantly  as  a  charm.  Thougli  the  Iiabo/hwa  continiu-d  this 
a— ault  from  early  morning  until  1  I1.  M.  they  only  killed  two 
men  with  their  arrow.-,  and  themselves  lo-t  ten." 

Hut  the  witness  could  not  withhohl  his  praiso  for  their  bravery, 
and  mentions  with  sjKrial  admiration  the  can1  with  which  thev 
looked  at'ter  their  fallen  comrades.  When  one  fell,  two  or  three 
would  immediately  -ci/e  him  and  carrv  him  awav  from  the  field, 
though  pursued  bv  great  croud- of  tin-  Wanvamwe/.i  with  >|M-ars 
and  fired  at  bv  the  Suaheli.  ''  Victoria-cross  fellow.-,  trnlv, 
manv  of  them  were!"  exclaim-  the  enthu-ia-tie  (Englishman. 
The  mo-t  gallant  of  them  wore  bunches  of  the  tail-  of  animals 
and  medicine  charm-  tied  to  their  wai-t-.  Thev  would  come 
Milling  and  ambling  up  near  the  uniini-hed  .-tockade  and  -hoot 
their  arrow-  high  nji  in  the  air  to  fall  among  the  \Vanvamwezi, 
then  pi'  king  up  ,-ueh  arrow.->  a-  thev  .-aw  on  the  fa-Id  run  utl' 
and  return  with  the  -aine  prancing  gait.  Thev  -eemed  to  think 
that  tin-  [Hi-nliar  gait  saved  them  trom  the  ball.-,  and  the  air  ot 
confidence  with  whieh  tln-v  lowered  their  head-  when  thev  heard 
th'-  wlii/./ing  to  allow  the  ball-  to  pa.-.-  ua-  a  picture  fur  an 
art  i-t. 

It  ua-  ijiiito  evident  to  Living-tone  thai  the  Suaheli  Aral* 
wer.-  Ojiiite  taken  aba'-k  bv  the  attitude  of  the  native-;  thev  ex- 
p-'-t'd  them  to  tl'-e  a-  -oon  a-  they  heard  a  ^un  lircd  in  anu'er. 
bur  in-lead  of  thi-  th'-v  \\e|-e  \-i-rv  ina:i\  i"-in^  cut  nil',  and 
-I. "ild  hi\e  l>«>n  but  |<i|-  our  \\anvam\\e/i  allie-.  It  \\a-  ad- 
i.uM-d  to  !«•  vrv  lortunate  iliat  the  attacking  ]>artv  had  no 
-u  •.•••-  ID  1 1  \  in_'  to  _'•  t  M  ji\\ ein  and  Ivaremliwc  (•  •  \< iin  tlu-m,  or 

If     \\'H||d     lia'.c    btcn     IIH'I'i-    -el'ioll-    -till. 

I'.arlv    I-!  i  tin-  '_'  I;  h  tie-  a  — a  i  Ian  t-  approacl|e«l  aL'aiii.  and  called 

on   Mohamad  : n-    >«H  »l  h:-  -to<-kadi    it     In    \\  •  re  a  man  \\  ho 

•  ••in  Id  li.dit ,  but  t  !e    I'll''    u  a-  tim-in.d,  and   in  •  mi'    -•  eim  d  u  illing 
t«j   ••!••'.    th"    launiiuj    i.ill.      'lie     do--tor  \\.t-    -lad    that    In    Jiad 


A    DREADFUL    MUKDER.  -101 

nothing  to  do  with  it,  hut  felt  very  thankful  that  he  hail  l*icn 
detained,  and  had  not,  with  his  lew  attendants,  fallen  into  tin- 
hands  of  the  justly  infuriated  Babemba.  The  attack  was  re- 
newed, and  some  went  out  to  them,  fighting  till  noun  :  when  a 
man  was  killed  and  not  carried  oil',  the  Wanvamwc/i  brought 
his  head  and  put  it  on  a  pole  on  the  stockade — six  heads  were 
thus  placed.  A  fine  young  man  was  caught  and  brought  in  bv 
the  Wunynmwczi :  one  stabbed  him  behind,  another  cut  hi-> 
forehead  with  an  axe.  Livingstone  called  in  vain  to  them  noi 
to  kill  him.  As  a  last  appeal,  the  poor  fellow  cried  piteously 
to  the  croud  surrounding  him,  ''  Don't  kill  me!  and  I  will  take 
yo:i  to  where  the  women  are."  "  You  lie,"  said  his  enemies, 
"you  intend  to  take  us  where  we  may  be  shot  by  your  friends," 
and  they  killed  him.  The  doctor  protested  loudly  against  the 
cruelty  and  wickedness  of  the  act,  but  his  voice  was  powerless 
against  the  rage  of  the  Wanyamwezi. 

He  felt  that  the  war  lay  at  the  door  of  Mohamad  Bogharib, 
and  he  did  not  hesitate  to  tell  him  that  he  considered  him  en- 
tirelv  in  limit,  and  did  all  he  could  to  move  him  to  conciliatory 
measures.  But  an  Arab  trader  only  makes  admission  of  wrong 
when  it  cannot  be  possibly  avoided,  and  particularly  i-  it  dilli- 
eult  to  persuade  one  to  such  measures  as  call  for  the  relinquishing 
aught  of  their  gains.  Dreadful  as  were  the  open  hostilities  which 
he  was  compelled  In  witness,  there  were  tiling-  occurring  rverv 
dav — in  the  natural  everv-dav  life  of  the  strange  companv, 
ordinarv  occurrences  in  the  trader's  camp — which  harrowed  his 
soul  more  severelv  than  the  violence  of  war.  that  he  could  think 
ot'as  extraordinarv  while  the  others  were  the  common  inevitable 
horrors  of  the  inhuman  business. 

lint  "at  last  he  made  a  start  lor  l"jiji  with  the  Arab-  on  the 
llth  of  D.'cemhrr — Mohamad  and  his  friends,  a  gang  of  \Van- 
vamwe/i.  and  long  lines  of -lave- bound  together  bv  their  hcaw 
t/o/.vx.  Some  were  burdened  with  ivorv,  others  with  copper  and 
food  for  the  journev,  while  hope  and  teat  and  mi-rrv  and  villanv 
could  be  read  oil'  on  the  variou-  countenance-  a-  thev  pa— -'d  in 
a  long  line  out  of  the  eountrv,  like  a  huge  .-erpent  dragging  it.s 
accursed  folds  awav  from  the  victim  it  has  paralysed  with  its 
fangs." 

It  required  onlva  short  march  to  bring  them  to  th*   Lokinda, 


W-  "CHRISTMAS  COMK  AGAIN." 

which  \vo.s  crossed  on  tin-  llitli,  though  Chisabi,  who  was  in 
authority  e;L-t  of  tin-  Lokinda,  had  not  joined  the  n>t  of  the 
Bubcuiba  in  their  war  on  the  Arabs.  It  seemed  un-ale  lor  the 
doctor  to  go  on  alone,  ami  he  endured  the  delays  and  mortifica- 
tions of  thi-  -tranir«'  company  ;is  patiently  its  jmssihle.  Kvcrv 
dav  brought  it.-  frc.-h  grievances  to  the  trailers  in  tlic  C>C:IJK'  of 
thrir  .-laves.  The  prettier  women  were  peculiarly  -ueees-fiil  in 
making  their  OCUJH.-.  Thev  knew  well  how  to  move  the  heart-1 
of  their  rna.-ter-  hv  their  charms,  and  no  MMMKT  W:L-  the  voke 
lifted  in  an-wt-r  to  th«'ir  entreaties  and  promises,  than  thev 
bounded  awav  like  frightened  roe.>  through  the  tali  gritss  and 
were  lo.-t  to  view. 

( fhri-tm:i.-  came  again,  and  -till  he  had  not  seen  I *jiji  or  letters 
ti'om  the  far  awav  friends  who  had  been  so  loiiur  mourning  him 
a-  d'-ad.  Hi-  -lailghten-*!  a  favorite  iroat  to  make  a  Christmas 
dinner  lor  hi-  liltl  •  partv,  which  had  now  n-.-uim-il  it.-  old  aj>- 
pearanee  bvthe  rcjM-ntance  of  all  the  men  who  had  been  tempted 
from  th'-ir  diiiv  bv  the  old  |>ri-oni-r  of  ( 'a-embr.  A  ti  \s  d:i\- 
more  and  he  wa-  -pending  the  la-t  dav  o|'  iSo'S  on  the  bank  <»f 
th"  I/ii'uko,  clo-e  bv  the  ^ri-at  I>:iki-  Tanganyika,  suiToumletl 
bv  lovt-ly  -i-rm-rv  and  filled  with  gratitude  for  the  deliverances 
of  the  year,  and  the  important  di.-coveries  which  he  had  Ixt-n 
allowed  to  make. 


CHAPTER    XXVII. 

UJIJI. 

Severe  Illness — Thoughts  and  Memories — Some  (lood  in  All — Mohamad  Bo^- 
hurili's  Kiintiiess — Dr.  Livingstone  too  111  to  Walk — Suffering*  in  being  Car- 
rii-il  —  Arrival  at  I  jiji —  Hardships  Mm  lured —  Disappointment —  ( ioods  Stolen — 
I'jiji — Products  of  the  District — Market-Place  — Wnjiji's  Salutations — Mead 
Ornamentation —  Formal  Introductions— Tattooing  A  lieprc-cniativp  Wajiji 
— Ornaments— Superstition — Sujterstitious  Custom. —  Kcfiisal  to  Carry  Letters 
—  A  Den  of  Thieves— Thani  l>in  Suellitn  —  Manyncma  Country — Keligiously 
Villanous  ?— Hambarre — Kxpert  Hunter: — The  (Ircat  Chief -The  Covennnt 
of  Peace — How  Arabs  keep  Covenants — Mockery  of  Superstition—  "  Lilipntian 
Monsters" — A  Pygmean  Battle — Amazed  at  Guns— An  Elephant  Hunt — I  u- 
satisfactory. 

Tin-:  catalogue  of  sufferings  in  180H  was  finished  by  a  dread- 
ful wetting  in  tlic  last  day,  and  18(>9  found  Dr.  Livingstone 
verv  ill,  and  facing  the  Lofnko,  thirty  yards  \vide  and  waist- 
deep.  The  experience  of  delavs  was  too  fre>h  in  his  mind  to 
allow  him  to  run  the  risk  of  seeing  this  stream  ri-e  suddenly 
out  of  its  hanks  and  spread  across  the  plains,  an  impassable 
barrier  in  his  wav  to  Tanganyika,  and  he  resolved  to  cross  im- 
mediately. Across  the  river  his  strength  failed  more  rapidly; 
the  additional  exposure  onlv  abetted  the  disease  which  had 
sei/ed  him,  and  he  soon  sank  down  with  pneumonia.  The  fever 
ragi'd,  and  his  mind,  no  longer  clear  and  free,  became  the  scene 
of  confused  thoughts  and  memories,  flitting  and  {lowing  vividly 
an  1  rapidly.  The  trees  about  him  seemed  to  he  covered  with 
hi'man  faces;  sometimes  the  tar  awav  land  surrounded  him  with 
familial  scenes;  his  old  friend- came  about  him  and  hi>  children, 
«.nd  the  *ad,  sweet,  prophetic  lines  were  on  his  lip.-  : 

"  I  -hall  l<»'k  into  yr>ur  faces, 
And  listen  t»  \\  hut  VMII  ^uy  : 
And  l>e  oftt-n  very  nr.«r  ymi, 
'NVlien  you  ihiijU  I'm  i.ir  a\vay.'' 

Another  time  he  seemed  to  >ee  a  Lfi'ave.  and  he  thouurht  hiin- 
Kelf  dead  without  having  reached  I  jiji,  without  having  seen  the 


-  SOME    GOOD    IN    ALL. 

long  wished-for  letters  fnun  his  dear  native  land.  His  suffer- 
ings during  tliis  illness  were  vt-rv  great,  anil  probably  left  him 
an  easier  prev  fur  the  final  sicklies*.  (Jod  mercifully  moved 
the  heart  of  Mohamad  Bogharib  to  special  kindness.  In  the 
most  vicious  there  are  traces  of  the  purity  \vhieh  reigned  in 
man  U-fmv  the  fall  hail  darkened  and  defiled  the  glorious  em- 
pire ;  hint*  «»f  former  virtue  that  relieve  the  deepening  degener- 
uey  of  the  ,-oul,  and  contest  the  supremacy  of  evil,  like  the 
glimmer,  which  lingers  in  the  gathering  darkness  when  the  .-tin 
is  far  away  and  his  p«  •ncilings  are  so  light  that  \ve  do  not  (.ill 
them  rays,  relieves  the  night  and  coiite.-ts  the  supremacy  of 
gloom.  It  i-  the  redemption  of  our  experience  among  men 
from  the  shadow  of  their  deformities,  that  it  is  veined,  however 
faintly,  with  kindnesses  and  loves.  And  it  should  awaken 
emotions  of  gratitude,  that  (Jod  allows  in  the  hearts  of  men 
some  remnants  of  the  light  and  goodness  which  thev  have  for- 
feited, to  mitigate  tin-  sorrows  «i'  their  depravity.  It  is  verv 
pleasing  to  think  of  the  tenderness  and  kindness  which  Living- 
ftono  received  at  the  hand  of  a  man,  about  wlm-e  heart  semes 
of  unrivalletl  cruelty  had  IM-CII  moulding  an  adamantine  c;u-ing 
during  -<>  many  year-.  Mohamad  Hogharib  W;L-  a  specimen 
Arab  trader.  He  w:u-  thorou^hlv  U-nt  on  train;  he  was  over- 
iK-Jiring  and  cruel.  The  do< -tor  had  -eeii  much  in  him  t<»  con- 
demn, verv  little  to  admire;  but  he  had  him.-elf  been  shown 
Verv  marked  and  per-evenn^r  kindnes*  bv  him.  Inuring  more 
than  a  year  he  had  furni-hed  and  ci»oked  hi>  I<KM!.  Though 
involved  in  war-,  he  had  never  mice  l'opj<»tten  tiie  wants  of  his 
destitute  fellow-traveller;  and  had  been  m<>-t  :i»iduou>  in  hin 
attention-.  And  new,  when  at  la-t  he  \\a.-  pro-trated,  he  had 
him  borne  forward  bv  hi-  followers.  It  wa-  the  tir-t  time  in 
hi-  hie  that  I  >i  .  Living-tone  had  needed  t'l  be  eai  ri-  d  on  hi.-* 
ji>iirn«\,  and  be  did  not  In -itate  to  j-eeord  lli--  Kindiie--  o|' 
Mohamad  and  hi-  gratitude.  I'.ut  though  all  care  \\:i-  \it*«\  (<v 

fce.  i.fi-     III-   i  i.Jlltnl  t,   the    il-M'tof    ile-efibe-     till-     jollfneV,  oil    to   the 

laL--.  a-  one  "I  -i-a!  -utii-ring.  In  hi-  extreme  illne--,  to  IK- 
•  •an  nil  at  all  niu-t  have  be.  n  painful  ;  bin  t'«  be  carritd  acm-s 
a  )  1 1  •!.<•;  i  i  011  nt  i  v,  I  v  inj  in  a  -ort  of  cot  re-i  npj 
e  I',,!  \\,|,-  \\.iini' led  c.ii. 
b\  ih.-  rough  ground,  iij> 


RKCKPT1ON    AT    UJIJI.  49;, 

jolted  from  side  to  side,  under  a  vertical  sun,  which  blistered 
his  skin  wherever  it  Ixrame  exposed,  with  only  a  bunch  of 
leaves  to  shelter  his  aching  head  and  his  face  from  the  jiowerful 
rays,  was  indescribably  painful.  An^  all  this  time  with  only 
such  nu-dical  attention  as  Mohamad  could  rend'.-r,  and  no  food 
except  a  little  gruel.  Thus  battling  with  a  dreadful  di>ea.-e, 
sometimes  for  days  so  extremely  ill  that  he  could  not  be  moved, 
then  rallying  and  relapsing,  it  was  full  six  weeks  before  he 
reached  the  Tanganyika  at  the  confluence  of  the  I/ofuko.  There 
he  obtained  canoes,  and  after  two  weeks  sailing,  landed  at  I'jiji 
on  the  1 1th  of  March,  18G9.  lie  had  been  poorly  able  to  note 
the  incidents  of  the  journey  ;  much  of  the  time  he  had  been 
hardly  conscious;  his  whole  anxiety  had  been  to  reach  Ujiji, 

*  •/  J  *J     ' 

where,  besides  his  letters,  he  expected  to  find  a  fresh  supply  of 
medicines,  and  such  other  of  the  essentials  to  the  comfort  of  an 
Englishman  as  he  stood  most  in  need  of. 

We  can  hardly  imagine  a  more  dispiriting  condition  than 
that  in  which  this  great  man  arrived  at  Ujiji.  Three  years  and 
a  half  before,  he  had  left  Zan/ibar,  well  provided  with  attend- 
ants and  stores;  the  attendants  had  melted  away  until  only  a 
little  handful  of  men  followed  him.  His  goods  had  been  waited 
and  stolen.  lie  had  been  subjected  to  indescribable  perplexities 
and  sorrows  in  regions  swarming  with  slave-traders,  and  at  the 
hands  of  people  who  had  learned  onlv  extortion  and  deception 
from  the  Arabs.  lie  had  found  his  way  hedged  by  the  bitter- 
ness which  Arab  provocations  had  engendered  in  the  native 
mind  against  all  foreigners.  lie  had  been  unavoidably  associ- 
ated with  a  class  of  men  whose  lives  were  most  repul.-ive  to  him, 
and  had  been  sickened  at  heart  bv  the  barbarities  of  the  un- 
holiest  wars.  Through  it  all,  he  had  suffered  for  food  and 
endured  constant  exposure,  traversing  on  loot  broad  plains, 
climbing  rugged  mountains,  lording  broad  rivers  and  inundated 
swamps;  his  clothes  and  shoes  were  tattered  ;  disease  had  come 
on  him  and  found  him  without  a  single  remedy,  with  only  his 
overtaxed  energies  and  impaired  constitution  to  match  a^aiu.-t 
it,  and  the  odds  of  continued  exposure  and  neees.-arv  exertion. 
He  was  in  theextremity  of  emaciation  and  destitution.  \\V  have 
followed  him  along  the  western  wilds  and  seen  him  fall  prostrated 
or  the  bed  of  the  generous  English  ma"  of  Loanda ;  we  have 


496  PISAPPOINTKD    AT    UJIJI. 


liiiu  battling  with  the  emliarraxsineuts  of  the  Portuguese 
com  muni  tic*  al«»u^  the  /.imln^-i  and  the  Shin-.  But  even  his 
life,  so  full  <>f  trial  an<l  .-u  tiering,  hail  mvived  a  uYr|>er  .-hade 
during  the-e  \c;u>.  AmJ  I  "jiji  had  not  half  the  consolations  to 
oiler  him  that  lie  had  diva  i  m-d  of.  It  disap|>ointed  him  ;  it  had 
lu-ithrr  letter-  nor  nutlifinr  lor  him.  The  unfaithful  agents  to 
who-4-  ran-  hi.-  pK»d-  had  Ix-cn  committed  had  jH-rfortuetl  his 
,-ervice  with  tin-  true  -pirit  of  his  c!a->,  had  plundered  the 
packa_r!  -.-  and  left  a  remnant  to  their  owner.  The  medicines, 
uineand  ehee-c  had  Ix-cn  left  at  L'liyauyeiulx1,  thirteen  davs 
travel  ea-t  of  I'jiji,  and  the  wav  Mocked  up  l»v  a  Ma/itti  \\nr. 
A  l»-w  article.-,  however  —  <-t)tlec,  tea,  a  little  -u^ar,  and  some  ^»x\ 
<laiui"i  underclothing  —  contrilmted  verv  much  to  hi-  comt'irt. 
()f  i-i_'htv  piece-  of  cloth,  -i\tv-t\\o  pieces  had  IK-CM  -toleii,  each 
m>'a-uriirj  t  weiitv-tinir  vard-,  and  similar  freedi-m  with  lu- 
lx-ad-  had  Ix'di  iudulire*!  in. 

The  prominenct-  which  t'jiji  ha-  a—umctl  in  connection  \\ith 
I>r.  I.ivin'_r-ione'-  later  year-  will  ju-tity  u-  in  more  e\ten-ive 
in<piirie-  about  it. 

The  name  ("jiji,  like  manv  of  the  name-  which  we  are  in 
danger  of  limiting  improperly  to  a  -in^h-  village,  when  reading 
l>.H)k-  of  African  travel,  di-tiiiLMii-he-  a  di-trict  Uinlerin^  on 
the  -jreat  Lake  'I'aii'janvika.  A  "di-trict  of  -iii'pa-_~in_r  heautv 
and  feiiilitv,"  according  to  Stanlev.  "The  mo-t  produ<-live 
province  in  tin-  -eciioii  of  the  coinilrv,"  according  to  Burton  ; 
where  ve^etalde-  which  mii~t  l>e  cultivated  elsewhere  -ceme«l  to 
floiiri-h  -pontatieoii-lv.  The  earlii-r  A  rail  .-ettler-  planted  rice 
a!"ii_r  the  -hore-  of  the  lake  and  had  abundant  harve-t-.  Sorg- 
hum, iiianioe,  ground-nut-,  liean-,  e^-plant,  -we,  |  potatoe-, 
\ani-,  eneiiiiilM-r-,  and  artichoke-,  are  all  in  the  li~t  «\  creature 
coinl'-rt-  which  an-  to  l»e  iiniiid  in  1  |i|i.  Sir_rar  can'-,  tohaeiii 
and  '  -otton  are  con-pieiioii-  article-  n|  inerchandi-e.  I  lie  plan- 
tain and  (iuiiiKi  jialiu  ll-iiiri-h  like  aliorijine-  in  the  lertile  -oil 
a:id  t!i-  hiimi'l  a!  mo-phi  i  -e  i.f  the  di-Triet  ;  and  all  th*  tri-e-  and 
viii'--  "t  the  to|-e-t-  exhihil  \\onderfill  In  \  uriam-e.  I  In  lop--!-, 
ar-  t  h  ron  j  in/  \\  it  h  u  i  Id  \»  a-!  -  ;  and  tin-  vilhilioii-  nionke\  -  find 
-[H.-i-d  deli/hf  in  ni"-t  int'onnal  raid-  on  the  L'arden-  of  their 


r  l! ,  ,:ht   r-  -em!)!-  -  a  .  larit  -t<irm 


WAJIJI    SALUTATIONS.  <1!>7 

The  human  inhabitants  who  assert  the  claim  of  their  nativity 
in  this  splendid  district,  the  Wajiji,  arc  the  peers  of  any  tril>e  in 
the  land  in  those  customs  and  characteristics  which  belong  to 
Africa.  But  thirty-five  years  ago  Aral)  traders,  who  had 
nlreadv  established  markets  at  I "nyauyernbc,  penetrated  their 
country  and  were  eager  to  appropriate  the  advantages  which 
Mere  so  apparent  to  be  reali/cd  by  establishing  a  market 
on  the  shores  of  the  beautiful  inland  sea;  and  from  that  time 
their  countrv  had  become  more  and  more  a  common  ground  for 
all  the  surrounding  tribes,  tempted  by  the  clothes  and  beads  of 
the  Arabs.  And  the  great  market-place  of  their  chief  town  is 
a  grand  centre  for  many  thousand  square  miles.  The  traveller 
may  see  there  "the  agricultural  and  pastoral  Wajiji  themselves, 
\vith  their  store  of  grain,  their  flocks  and  herds  ;  salt  merchant.-. 
from  Uvinza ;  ivory  merchants  from  Uvira  and  Vsowa;  can  of- 
makers  from  Ugomo  and  Uvundi;  and  peddlers  from  Zan/ibar; 
the  representatives  of  a  do/en  different  tribes  engaged  in  noi.-v 
chafler  and  barter.''  The  streets  of  this  strange  town  invite 
him  to  an  exhibition  of  as  various  customs  and  tempers,  and 
the  huts  cover  scenes  in  home  life  that  represent  an  area  of 
manv,  manv  miles.  The  salutations  of  a  people  are  among  the 
more  conspicuous  formalities,  and  the  Wajiji  are  not  behind  the 
foremost  in  fastidious  observance  of  the  formalities  of  their 
society.  It  is  a  question  whether  a  fashionable  lady  of  our 
country  would  survive  the  sight,  if  she  should  unexpectedly  be- 
hold a  I'jiji  belle  making  her  bow  to  a  gentleman  on  the  street. 
It  is  a  liberal  bow,  an  ardent,  enthusiastic  recognition  ;  there  is 
no  mistaking  it,  no  danger  that  the  gallant  will  pa.-s  bv  anximislv 
qiierving  whether  his  lady  notion!  him.  We  are  at  a  loss  to 
describe  this  bo\v.  Imagine  yourself  a  youn-j;  Wajiji  gentleman, 
arrayed  in  your  best  robe  of  bark  cloth,  or  vour  best  lion  .-kin, 
loitering  down  the  avenues  of  that  tropical  city,  a  tall  black 
Venus  approaching  you  in  the  distance  ,  as  she  draws  nearer,  you 
LT:I/C  with  delight  on  the  shining  blackness,  and  wonder  that 
such  grace  is  allowed  to  mortals.  If  you  are  a  fortune  hunter 
your  eye  catches  with  eovetou-  eagerness  the  splendid  bund-  of 


played  her  dainty  hand  with  bejewelled  tinkers,  and  her  exqui-ito 
arm  with  glittering  bracelet.      If  onlv  beautv  charms  volt,  vuu 


408 


FORMAL  iNTKowmoxs. 


will  dwell  on  the  wonderful  chiselling  of  the  1-adv's  features,  that 
pplendid  no-e,  .-<>  l)n>aillv  ainl  strongly  planted,  the  gencron* 
lips,  ami  tin-  ehtvks  adorned  with  wonderful  designs,  wrought 
it»  the  black  wa.xv  -urfacv  with  the  .'•harp  point  of  a  knife, 
lint,  whoever  v«>n  an-,  and  however  you  are  affected  by  the 
ladv's  pr»x-n<v,  when  von  have  well  confronted  her  it  will  IK 
almo-t  killing,  to  behold  that  jicrsonification  of  African  decorum 
Middi  nlv  pan-e,  and,  bending  forward,  place  her  hand  upon  her 
feet,  or.  if  a  more  familiar  friend,  to  have  the  punctilious  ladv 
turn  suddenly  a  broadside  U[H>II  von,  and  clapping  her  hands  furi- 
«>u-!v,  break  forth  with  the  sonorous  salutation,  "  Wake,  wake, 
waky,  waky  ;  huh,  huh,"  and  if  you  -hould  be  a  real  \\'ajiji 
man  von  would  reply  by  clapping  v»ur  hand-  in  turn,  and 

•  •all-hit);:  up  th  •    ladv'-  word-,  von  would  repeal   them  \\ith  an- 
swering earni>tne«~.      Hut  we  are   not   to  imagine  that  the  cus- 
t"in-  of  tlii-  !»«K-ii-»y  provide   for  stieh   imjM-rtinent  nt-ngnitions 
as   are   iuflieteil    nn    people  sometimes  in  nearer  eliun-.      NN'ajiji 
gentlemen  \v»ald    a<   ><>i.n   think    of  ubandoning   tin -ir  splendid 
valley  as  surrendering   the   tcdioiH    eeremnnv  of'   intrixiuetiun, 
which    is  (.i)   this  wi-<-:  a  mutual   aojuaintancv,  with   profound 
r»  --p'-'-t,  intPKlaecs  one  gent  iemnn   to  another;   the  two  advance 
with  inimitable  gravitv,  and  grasping  each  other  bv  the  elbo\\>, 
br_Mii  to  rub  ia«-!i  other's  arms  vigorously,  all    the  while  repeat- 
ing  tlio-<*    familiar   words   "Wake,    wake,   wakv,  wakv,"  never 
failing   to   punctuate   their  sentences  with  the  M^nifieant  grunt.-, 
"huh,  hull."  in  token  of  the  ali>i»lnte  -ati-faction   they  have   in 
the  privil'-j-e  of  knowing  each  other. 

\\  c  an  in  II  v  mindful  that  the  elaborate  di-po-n  ion  of  nature's 
•Tanial  covering  i-  not  continol  to  Africa,  but  \\  ••  have  found  it  a 
tiK'.'t'  r  of  .jiiiic  a-  much  importance  there  a-  h-  re.  and  one  in- 
V"ivin_'  marvel-  of  dc-L'n  and  \\orkman-hip,  l>e!..re  \\lueh 
rerun-  ••!  t".  ;-t'd  "paper-"  and  ton-  of  eiirliiiLr  iron-  might 
'  d- -pair.  In  \Vajiji,  now  and  then,  tin-re  mav  he  -ecu  a 
p''--  ban-  a-  .-HI  cj._r--h'  !1  -it  i-  onlv  fa-liion  though;  more  iVe- 
ijueiit!v  tie  hair  i-  !«  f?  in  "  dia'.'onal  and  Imri/ontal  line-  or  m 
e..i:il.-,  rid/-  -.  tu!'-,  -tripe-,  \vith  ilaintv  frontal  enrl-  like  beaii- 

•  •!?•  l.er-  :    -i.ti:. 'imr  -  f|,,  p- are  left  onl\-  narrow    band-  aej-o--  tlie 
fr-.liT;    -..mi-'ilne-    the    li-Ki,  -T    and    mo-t    f  iiita-ti«-  liin--  of  « o«  .1 
»?•••  '••  |..-  ,. .  n  v.  r-ipp'ie/  tie-  c|-i,nii,  and  if  not  da//lmg,  at    least 
t'Vi'-  •       !  n _'  tie-  nuaei-ii-toineii  jja.''-. 


A    UKPRESKNTATIVK    WA.JI.H.  409 

With  such  an  elaborate  crown  it  is  natural  to  expect  marvel- 
lous attendant  charms.  Most  eccentric  fancies  will  be  surprised 
l>v  the  disigns  described  about  the  bodies,  anus,  and  legs. 
Tattooing  is  in  perfection  among  the  Wajiji,  a^  among  most  of 
the  tribes  in  the  lake  region  ;  and  though  the  operation  must  be 
painful  indeed,  it  is  precisely  what  the  people-  would  part  with 
last  of  all.  How  frequently  do  we  find  human  beings  clinging 
most  fondly  to  the  most  unreasonable  custom-;  at  the  sacrifr-e  of 
true  comfort  !  There  is  not  any  conceivable  tyranny  so  unre- 
lenting and  severe  as  that  of  fashion.  "  You  will  find  on  a 
representative  person  of  the  Wajiji  an  unconscionable  mvstery 
c.f  wheels  and  lines.  About  each  breast  there  is  a  wheel,  and 
one  encircling  the.  navel  ;  wavy  lines  are  tattoed  on  the  arms, 
and  the  immovable  bracelets  about  the  wrist ;  wavy  lines  ex- 
tend across  the  chest,  and  longer  lines,  with  perplexing  meander- 
ings,  extend  from  shoulders  to  hips,  crossing  on  the  abdomen  ; 
while  all  over  that  rotundity  there  are  most  unmeaning  blotches. 
It  is  wonderful  how  crazy  vanity  may  become;  it  is  almost  as 
profligate  of  its  ingenuity  in  Africa  as  in  America.  But  tin 
Wajiji  are  not  satisfied  with  the-  inseparable  decorations  of  thcii 
tattooing;  their  vanity  knows  no  restraint  except  povertv.  How 
natural  that  is!  we  can  hardly  reali/e  that  so  familiar  a  speich 
applies  so  far  from  home,  but  it  does:  we  cannot  denv  it.  Some- 
times ua  top  of  the  fashion"  lady  may  be  seen  with  thirty  01 
fortv  necklaces  of  beads  about  her  sable  neck,  and  numerous 
bracelets  of  beads,  and  belts  of  beads  twined  about  the  waist, 
and  depending  in  back  and  front  from  the  neck  ;  besides  the 
beads,  charms  innumerable,  of  ivory,  hippopotamus  teeth,  and 
boar's  tusks.  And  well  these  fine  ladies  understand  the  art  of 
arranging  the  dyed  robes  of  sheepskin  so  as  to  conceal  ns 
little  as  possible  the  mvsteries  of  their  toilets.  These  people 
are  skilful  manufacturers  of  cotton  cloth,  and  are  better  supplied 
with  that  commodity,  of  which  onlv  a  small  <juantity  sutli<-es  in 
completing  the  most  satisfactory  "make  up"  of  man  or  woman  ; 
for  what  is  the  use  of  making  one's  self  so  prettv  if  he  cove".s 
all  the  beauty  with  cloth  ? 

The  superstition  of  the  Wajiji  and  the  neighboring  tiibes  i.-1 
perhaps  more  decided  than  in  manv  of  the  tribes  which  have 
become  known  to  us.  In  one  of  their  villages.  Mr.  Stanlev  -aw 


THK    I'JIJI    AKAI1S. 

an  idol,  the  tutelar  deity  ;  it  was  the  imai^e  of  a  human  head 
and  shoulders,  carved  in  wood,  painted,  the  face  white,  and 
••taring  Mack  eves.  lie  fore  this  ima^e  he  noticed  ne-n  and 
women  a-  they  pa-t  Urnin^  ]>rofoundly,  as  the  Catholics  do 
when  thev  pa.-.-  the  ima^eof  the  Virgin.  Innumerahle  cu-toni* 
of  re-p<Tt  and  pivc-aution  <rro\v  out  of  their  niper-titions  which 
are  -ecu  cropping  ,,ut  daily.  IJ;it  we  may  detain  the  reader  too 
Ion;;  with  the  native-,  \\  ho  are  ivallv  little  more  conspicuous 
than  the  |x-op|e  of  rnanv  other  trihc-,  in  the  village  I'jiji,  a-  I>r. 
Living-tone  found  it. 

Amo!i_'  the  foreigners,  the  doctor  was  more  imincdiatelv 
a--o.-i;iti-d  with  the  Aral>-,  and  their  agents.  Thev  were  the 
re>ident  representatives  of  the  oin-iile  world.  The  more  promi- 
nent o|  them  -eeined  kind,  alter  their  ideas  <1  kindness;  l»nt 
either  hv  their  di-hone-tv  or  their  nnpardonalilv  liad  mana-je- 
nien:  he  -nll'i-ivd  d;-ti'e--in^  inconveniences  .iiid  !•--•-,  and  in 
the  one  matter  ol  mo-t  vital  importance  thev  failed  him  entirelv. 
For  lon_r  \var-  he  had  l»een  a-  dead  to  hi-  IriciM-  ,  the  world 
had  mourned  hi-  lo--,  onlv  the  more  -airjuine  .•)  the  people 
clieri-hin.:  the  hop.-  ol'  vet  hearing  of  him  a.-  alive.  And  now 
that  he  wa-  at  a  point  in  n-^;i'-ir  inten-our-e  \\ith  tin-  i-oa-t  !ii- 
heart  hounded  with  delight  in  the  IIOJH-  of  .-i-ndi:i-j  letid'-  awav 
\\hicli  would  intoi'in  hi-  fri'-iid-  and  !amil\  of  hi-  <-\i-t»  nee,  hi- 
-ii.',  (--(•-  and  hi-  ho|»e-.  l-'or  dav-  and  week-  he  lahond  over 

llie-e     pree;o!|-     pa  ::<•-,    hilt    to    Ili-    ^I'eat    -oITo\\     he    t'olllld     that     the 

Aralt-  ret'n--d  to  -end  tln-m,  (i-arin-j.  a-  In-  mje.-ed.  that  In-  mi-lit 
complain  in  them  to  the  /uti/il»ar  authoritie- ol  tlieir  condnet 

amon-^  the  tril ie-  \\e-t  of  the  lake;  and  uh'ii  at  la-t  In-  com- 
mitted them  to  unwilling  hand-  it  turned  out  that  IP-  mi^ht  a- 
\\e'l  have  eon-i^ned  them  t  .  t!i.-  tlame-  ;  for  the  -A,,;-,!  ,,f  -n,-h 
ni'-n  i-  nothing  \\  ln-n  thev  think  t  heir  «.rain-  ai'e  in  vo!  \ed  :  t  n<  •-•• 
letter-  ne\  i-r  -aw  tip-  li_'hl.  Alter  month-  o(  <  \|M  |-;eiiee  atnon^ 
t  hem  I  }>.-.  Living-tone  \\  a-  eon  >  trained  to  p:  on  MM  nee  (  j  \\\  a  di  n 
o!  tin-  wur-t  -lave  trader-,  •  ompared  \\ilh  whom  tho--  IP-  had 
li-'-n  uiih  in  I  riin-ju  and  Ilaua  \vi-re  ^i-ntlenien.  I  in\  \\erc 
tin-  ri\  a!-  "t  the  |  *oi  t  njii'  -••  in  ei  iii-lt  \'  and  IIP  an  IP  --.  "  I  ip-n 
iiii-un---,  IP  -a\  -,  "  -,\  a-  no:  a  t  radc  1m:  a  v-ti-m  «if  cmi-ecul  i\  e 
i-nrdi-r-  ;  i  j|.-\  _'o  to  plnnd-  r  an  I  I.  ':<  I  nap  .  •  \  •  i  \  :  radin_'  t  ri|>  i-  a 

I'-HlV.'.  I    lp-V       \\ele      e.illtill'l    lllv    eo;|i   oet||i^      -o|l|C      \   lllatloll-      111- 

v a •".'•: i  of  the  t  n!»-  nnpi  "-,  ,.  !•-.  |   \\  i;  h  'jusi-. 


VARIOUS    DIFFK-TLTIKS.  501 

Prominent  nmong  the  representatives  of  this  nefarious  chws 
was  the  very  man  of  all  on  whom  lie  had  been  instructed  to  de- 
jM-nd,  vi/..,  Thani  bin  Suellim.  This  man  had  been  a  slave,  and 
had  fn»m  that  degradation  risen  to  freedom  and  influence;  his 
eountenanee  told  unmistakably  the  meanness  of  his  spirit  ;  he 
had  a  "disagreeable  squint  of  the  right  eye,  protruding  teeth, 
averted  lip-,  and  the  light  mi.xed-breed  color;  he  was  a  type 
of  the  vicious  African."  The  doctor  had  anxiously  awaited  his 
coinin"  fro:n  Unvanvcnibe,  whence  he  arrived  on  the  '2^\.\i  of 

•  • 

M;iv,  l)rinirintr  with  him  two  litfht  hnxr^,  for  which  he  demanded 

*      7  O  ~  ~ 

fourteen  fathoms  of  cloth,  although  the  carriage  had  been  pre- 
paid at  Zanzibar;  and  not  sati.-lied  with  this  extortion  and 
additional  presents,  succeeded  in  stealing  more,  and  in  a  .-hort 
time  sent  a  demand  for  collee  :  when  this  was  declined  he  found 
a  bitter  revenge  in  sending  round  a  warning  to  all  the  t'jijians 
airainst  their  rarryinjj  letters  for  the  traveller  to  the  coast. 

O  •          o 

Livingstone  felt  very  anxious,  as  his  strength  returned,  to 
explore  the  lake  thoroughly,  particularly  was  he  eager  to  trace 
its  northward  course  and  examine  the  reported  outlet  in  that 
direction;  but  his  supplies  were  so  reduced  by  the  plundering 
of  those  who  had  been  their  custodians,  and  it  was  so  manifest 
that  the  Arabs  and  their  associates  at  I/jiji  were  bent  on  fleering 
him  entirely,  that  he  was  compelled  to  give  up  the  undertaking 
for  the  time.  Hut,  in  the  lace  of  all  the  disappointments 
and  vexations  and  more  serious  discouragements,  his  purpose 
remained  firm  :  he  would  not  relin<jni.-h  his  work.  And  early 
in  July  we  find  him  with  his  bark  upon  I'jiji,  and  his  face  to 
the  northwest,  bound  for  the  Manvuema  countrv. 

The  Manvuema  had  been  exempt  from  the  foravs  of  the  Arabs-, 
and  he  had  reason  to  hope  that  they  would  be  found  friendly. 
A  great  chief'  was  reported  as  living  far  awav  there  on  a  ^reat 
river,  and  it  was  exhilarating  to  think  of  reaching  a  people  uu- 
contaminated  by  the  evil  influences  which  had  preceded  him  so 
generally,  in  all  the  regions  through  which  he  had  been  travelling. 
There  lav  before  him  a  vast  region  which  had  never  been  pene- 
trated even  bv  the  trader,  a  region,  a-  we  shall  find,  inhabited 
bv  a  people  whose  custom-;  had  never  been  modified  bv  foreign 
influences,  a  people  as  unlike  the  tribes  nearer  the  coa>t  as  their 
country  was  wilder  and  stranger  than  those  section*  where  the 

ff  O 

30 


•r»0-  RELIGlorSLY    VILLAXOrs? 

eini.v<uries  of  a  semi-civilization  had  ni-onled  their  prrseiuv. 
But  it  wa.-  ine.\|H.iiient  f«>r  even  -o  lx>ld  a  inan  to  set  out  on 
Midi  a  juiiriicv  attended  only  l>v  the  live  or  six  voting  int'ii  who 
remained  t"  linn  of  iii-  ul.l  e.-et>n  ;  and  reluctant  as  he  wa>  to 
de|»end  on  -ueh  an  a_renev.  lie  wa-  oMi^ed  to  emhraee  the  <»pjx»r- 
tiniitv  \\hich  aro-e  ot  continuing  hi.-  lahor-  under  the  protection 
nl'  Mohamad  iio^harifo,  \vin>  had  arran^ietl  tu  make  liis  lirst 
jouniev  into  the  i -inin try  within  a  >h»rt  time. 

>eeurin^  eanoe-  at  I  jiji,  he  went  alon-^  the  ea-tern  >ide  of  thr 
lake  to  the  mouth  of  Kali"_ro  riser,  ju-t  under  the  shadow  of 
the  loftv  mountain  which  li-mU  its  name  to  the  >tream.  From 
tiii-  point  lie  W;L-  pulliil  a- -ro—  the  lake  and  joined  Mohamad 
on  Ka-eir_re  i-iet.  I\a-:in«£a,  the  elnet  ot  tin-  i>land,  had  t:one 
to  lijhi  the  (  Joina.  After  a  \'<-w  dav-  delav,  dnriiiLr  which  a 
relative  ot'  K:L-an_r:i  wa-  eii_ra_red  to  act  a-  uruide,  and  various 
arran_ri-mi-nt-  pcrfceted,  t  h<j  \\  hole  part  v  emliarki-d  Irom  l\a-en^e 
and  -!'-pt  that  ni-jli!,  th*'  '_'<!  ot'  Au-jn-t.  on  the  mainland  in  a 
•  •op.-..-  nl'  ho. ik'-d  thorn.  Tiioujh  hi-  health  wa.-  11111- -h  improved, 
the  doetor  \\a-  still  verv  w«-ak,  and  even  the  shorl  mareh  ol 
thr'-»-  and  a  half  mil---  alon^  tin-  lake  the  next  day  fatigued  him 


The  AraKs  had  l»e_Min  their  journev  in  all  solemnity;  it  i- 
marvelloii-  how  relijjinu-dv  a  villauou.-  work  mav  !>••  pro-eented. 
Mohamad  had  kiil'-d  a  lanili  in  -aeriti>v  to  iiadrajee,  and  said 
hi-  pravt-r-  ni"-t  d<-vou'lv,  and  tln-v  \\eiv  I'uily  under  way. 
Marching  awav  t'roin  1  air_ranvika,  thev  cro-M-d  lir-t  the  I  ,o- 
vumlia.  a  river  flouiirj;  in!"  the  lake,  then  aero--  -e\-eral  ot'  it-, 
t  riliutarie-,  on  aero--  a  hillv  region,  ln-tween  raii'_rc-  o!'  moun- 
tain-, t"  th'-  Loliiimlia,  uh:eh  under  a  -nee.  --i,  >n  o|  name-  tl"\\s 
\\ith  t'irtilou-  ei.iir-'-  in!"  tie-  l.ualalia.  far  oil'  in  the  liorthwot, 
li.-\<.nd  r.aml.aiTe.  The  -p.-cial  l»"alitie-  et.nld  not  \»-  fixed 
.  \  |,  '!v,  l»-eau-'-  of  the  iiiKieeoimtalile  -nperalinii' lance  o)  name-. 
(  '-.niit  !••--  -mall  ri  ver-  •  ro--e,  |  t  h-'ir  pa!  h  a-  thev  advaiieetl.  I  he 
•.vln.le  .,!"  AiiL'U-t  and  t\\ent\-  da\-of  S.-pteinl'-r  were  oeeupitil 
in  r- -aelnn..'  1'amliarri-,  \\hich  until  lli-n  had  l»eeii  the  limit  ot 
•••.I'll  !le  A  i  i'i  !  r.  i  v-  !-.  Tii--\  ii.id  er..--.  d  man  v  I  H -anti  fill  \  alle\  - 
id  1  -p!'  :i'i;'l  I'.r-  -t-  of  maje-tie  tree-,  and  had  -een  -neh  -p<-«  i- 
m.  :i-  of  t-.i--.iva  a-  tii--\  hi  I  hardlv  dream-'<l  of  liet'ofe,  and 
p«-:i-  ' :  .iU-1  'piit.-  into  the  ip  af!  o''  a  ••ountrv  until  v<  rv  rett-Htly 


BAMBARHE.  503 

associate*  1  in  the  minds  of  traders  with  all  that  i.s  dreadful  and 
perilous. 

The  i'orests  had  supplied  abundance  of  meat  all  the  way,  and 
Mohamad  generously  divided,  as  of  old,  with  hi.-  companion.  Tin- 
warlike  natives  all  along  betrayed  by  their  curio>ity  their  igno- 
rance of  such  strangers  as  thev  saw  traversing  their  field-  and 
valleys.  The  paths  along  which  they  walked  had  the  appearance 
of  having  been  used  for  ages,  and  many  of  the  gigantic  tree* 
rivalled  in  magnitude  those  monsters  of  the  west  which  the 
doctor  had  declared,  years  before,  that  he  would  put  against  a 
dozen  Hood-.  The  Arabs  had  shown  themselves  expert  hunters, 
and  over  and  over  thev  provided  for  the  doctor  the  choicest  parts 
of  the  lordly  elephants  which  seemed  waiting  on  everv  side  the 
hunter's  aim.  It  is  hardly  possible  for  one  inexperienced  in 
African  travel  to  realize  the  wild  ness  and  the  hardship,  the 
charm  and  weariness  of  such  a  jotirnev.  From  the  -}<\  of  August 
to  the  21st  of  September  they  had  travelled  onlv  about  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  miles.  But  the  doctor's  strength  had  increased 
as  he  advanced,  and  ho  found  himself  much  more  vigorous  when 
he  arrived  at  Bambarre  than  he  had  been  for  a  lon«j;  time. 

They  were  now  quite  in  the  heart  of  Manytiema,  among  a 
people  farther  removed  from  civilization  than  any  he  had  visited, 
compared  with  whom  indeed  all  the  tribes  which  he  had  visited 
formerly  might  be  called  civili/ed — thorough  savages,  on  whom 
not  one  ray  or  remote  reflection  of  Christianity  had  ever  fallen 
— a  people  of'  whom  strange  stories  had  been  told,  who<e  name 
inspired  the  more  ignorant  invaders  with  terror. 

The  great  chief,  Moeuckuss,  whom  thev  had  expected  to  find 
at  Bambarre,  had  been  called  awavbvthe  messenger  who  accepts 
no  denial,  and  his  two  sons  were  found  in  his  place.  These 
men  were  named  Moenembagg  and  Moenem^oi  :  thev  exercised 
a  joint  authority.  The  elder  was  the  wi-er  and  the  chief 
spokesman  in-  important  matters,  but  Moevcm^oi  seemed  to  be 
the  chief  centre  of  authority.  The  power  which  had  distin- 
guished Moenekuss  far  and  near  seemed  not  to  have  de-cended 
to  his  sons,  l»ut  thev  imitated  him  as  nearlv  as  thev  could  in  his 
deportment  toward  strangers. 

It  was  quite  manifest  that  these  brothers  looked  on  the  party 
with  considerable  suspicion,  and  to  assure  them,  Mohamad  re- 


T)04  THK   COVKNANT. 

-orted  to  the  singular  oremony,  widely  prevalent  amon^  savajjo 
trilxf.,  known  a-  iiii\:i»_r  !>!'»•<  j.  In  this  eeremonv  a  small  inci- 
sion w;is  niaili-  in  the  forearm  of  each  pcr-on,  from  which  blood 
was  taken,  and  mi\«d,  in  tin1  mid-t  of  declarations  of  uixlving 
friend-hip.  Moeiu  'iiilia-j-^  -aid,  "  Your  jM-ople  must  not  steal, 
\vc  never  ilo."  "  No  -tea'iii'j  of  fowls  or  men,"  said  Moenetn- 
£•>].  "  <  '::'eh  the  thief  and  l>riir_r  liini  to  me  ;  one  who  steals  a 
per-oa  i-  a  pi_r."  said  Mohamad,  and  -o  the  compact  was  made. 
Hut  it  eotild  hardly  IH>  in  the  po\\vr  of  a  few  word-  or  drop*  of 
I»!O.M!  to  eoinpo-e  the  anxietie-  of  a  people  so  ignorant  and 
i-olated,  in  th"  pr<~--ii'  <•  of  thoM-  \\-lio  seemed  (o  them  to  have 
dropped  ani"i]^  them  from  some  other  world.  And  the  Ix'arini; 
of  the  Arah  par'v,  nowhere  distinguished  for  anv  -penal  n-pird 
li>r  t!i<-ir  ei.vc'.ian:-1.  \\;s-  not  caleiilatfd  to  inei'i-a-e  the  eonjideiiee 

\vlli'-!|      \V"l!!d      lit      l'r-t       have      li'-e|)      >!o',\lv      fil'llle'l.         'J'|1(.      -laVe- 

aiii"ii^  them  \'i  rv  -non  l>«^an  their  liu'ht-liiij-  r<  -d  attention-  to 
the  prnpertv  "f  tli'-ir  1  1-  'i'jli  1  (or-,  and  them-dv(  -,  in  turn.  l>eea:ne 
more  and  more  the  vi'-tim-  of  a  terror.  f:ir  wor-e  than  appri-hen- 
-ion-  .it'  lu-iir/  a  l'"\\  !  or  eluth  ;  thev  h«:nd  miieh  of  the  ni;u). 
eat  iri'j  pfopen-it  ;e~  of  the  M  an  \'  MI  ma.  Aeeiirdiirj  to  hi-  <-ii-tom. 
I>r.  Living-tone  had  a  h'''!-e  put  up  for  him-elt  at  I'amharre. 
The  native  huts,  though  huilt  -iniai'e,  wen-  verv  low.  with  verv 
!o\v  d»or\va\'-,  hut,  unlike  main'  of  the  tnl>e-  nearer  the  coa-t, 

the    III'MI    a--'ltl)e    tile    lalior    ot'  efeet  ;  I  !  _'    til'  •-•  •    I1."!!)'  -,  alld    the   ehlej 

lalior  of  the  li.  •!•!-.;  e\jM-etin^  their  woni'-n  to  ilo  their  part  in 
keejuir_r  them  -npji];e.l  \\ith  \\ater  and  fuel.  Ainon^  the-e  rude 
lirirharian-,  no\v  and  ffie;)  th«  -r<-  appeared  nolilei1  -peeimen«t 
who-.-  nii!id-  -e«  nied  en'j:!'j-ed  \\ith  Braver  proli'cin-  than  ih'- 
ijU'-tion-  o|  pre-ent  eoinfort  which  -<  ,  m,  d  to  al»-orli  the!' 

fellows. 

I  \vo  fine  vo'iti-j  men  erinie  to  \-j-;t  the  .!(»'..;•.  and  afii  r  vari- 
•  >u-  -  ('!•  -•'"•!-  a'-oMt  III-  eon  nt  r\  ,  a-!.-  <1  him  \\  h-  '  her  |>eop]e  di<-<l 
fh'-re.  and  ••.«,  hep-  tliev  \\-nt  a!t--r  il--at  li.  "NN'lioK;!!-  tli'in'.'" 
the\  a-'.i  d.  and  "  I  lave  vnii  IMI  i-liann  a-_rai;i-1  d'a:h'.'"  \\'  !  » 
Liio-.'.  -  ):.•••,  nitinv  inin-l-  ill.  re  nre  In  tint  m.  ,;-,  .  i  darkne--,  1.  ?•..<..!- 


U     M-a!!;      no    lifi.'ht.  r    li-ht    I'-'.-nd    it    than    th>\-    l:a\  •  .  mind 
'.viiit.n/    lor    t!:.-    -torv   ".  hi'l:     -»  man-.  .   in   the    ).;  -j-jht  IM--    of    :!. 

h-lif,    •!•   -pi-e  ".'          It     \\  a-     -oni.i.'.  fill,    ill'lee.1,    to      -ee     the     timid      <!e 


WHAT    DOK.S    IT    MKAN?  60T) 

pendenee  of  these  IXKH- crcattmson  their  charms,  which  posseting 
no  |»O\V<T  to  help,  are  furnished  by  their  credulity,  with  dread- 
ful power  to  disappoint  t IK-HI.  It  is  so  everywhere  in  some 
decree:  men  l>v  their  confidence  create  destroyers  of  agencies 
mo>t  impotent — for  that  is  a  destroyer  which  disappoints  us 
in  the  hour  of  trial.  Dr.  Livingstone  found  a  large  Ut'tle 
hanging  IK- fore  an  id(»l  in  a  house  of  a  deserted  and  burned  vil- 
la"v.  The  truardian  remained  amidst  the  ruins  which  it  could 

r~*  Jr"1 

not  prevent,  like  a  mocker  of  man's  foolish  faith. 

Among  the  unfamiliar  customs  of  these  isolated  people,  there 
was  one  rite  which  seemed  to  link  them  with  other  lands  and 
ages.  Circumcision  was  found  to  be  commonly  observed.  It 
is  performed  on  the  voting,  and  unlike  other  African  tribes  who 
have  it,  the  Manyuema  speak  of  it  openly,  and  attend  it  with 
gr'-at  formalities  and  feasting.  Was  there  a  time  far  in  the 
past,  when  these  people,  so  benighted  now,  held  intercourse  with 
the  chosen  race?  Is  this  singular  rite  a  single  hint  of  privileges 
enjoyed  loni;,  long  ago?  Is  it  the  last  trace  of  a  knowledge  for- 
feited by  some  enormity  of  guilt  ?  How  is  it  that  this  particular 
rite  is  observed  and  honored  in  the  verv  heart  of  African 
heathendom  ? 

Another  familiar  sight  was  afforded  the  doctor  in  Bambarre, 
which  he  did  not  need  to  wonder  about  a  moment — a  sight 
which  long  ago  had  been  stereotyped  before  him,  bv  the  most 
pointed  lesson  :  those  dreadful  u  Liliputian  monsters,"  a  regi- 
ment of  soldier  ants,  marched  deliberately'  -into  his  quarters 
one  morning,  without  warning  or  invitation,  and  took  up  their 
quarters.  The  doctor  submitted  meekly,  but  another  day  there 
came  a  detachment  of  Sirufu,  known  as  driver  ants,  and  laid 
siege  to  the  partv  so  smiglv  housed.  A  pitched  buttle  ensued, 
which  left  the  drivers  in  possession  :  ju~t  like  it  is  among  men  — 
nation  succeeds  nation.  I>ut  the<e  domineering  little  rascals 
are  often  paid  for  their  barbarities:  there  is  alwavs  an  eater  for 
an  eater  ;  the  white  ants  are  a  delicacy  much  in  e-tecm  among 
the  people,  who  watch  their  time  mid  build  shelters  over  the 
huge  abodes  of  their  game,  ju-t  when  th'-v  are  about  sending 
forth  their  winged  colonies.  The  unsuspecting  colour,  bidding 
farewell  to  the  home  of  their  vouth.  spread  their  \vin_:-.  and 
mounting  suddenly  in  the  air,  strike  against  the  roof  and  turn- 


AMA/KP    HY    T1IK   GUNS. 

hie  down  in  confusion  on  the.  ground,  their  loosely  honked  whip* 
ail  detached  In  tin  their  fat  Unlics.  The  reader  will  rememlH-r 
how  artfullv  their  wintrs  are  linked  to  them.  ( )nee  on  the 
ground  the  cunning  men  -weep  them  up  in  ha.-ket>,  and  Ijeur 
them  a\\av  to  their  hut.-  in  epicurean  delight.  The  eountrv  all 
ahoiit  Bamharre  wa-  alive  with  splendid  ^ame,  and  there  were 
ample  opjM»rtunitie>  during  the  days  of  re-t  to  astonish  the 
native-,  hv  the  displav  of  the  marvellous  powers  of  hall  and 
|K)\vder.  The  natives  were  ama/ed  hv  the  1:1111-.  Their  own 
jMii.-oned  armws  were  weapons  not  to  U-  despised,  hut  tin-  sii;ht 
of^uns  the  loud  report,  the  eru.-hin^  force  of  the  hall,  the  tla-h- 
HILT  ot  the  powder,  were  to  them  the  climax  of  the  mvsteriou.s 
and  awful.  The  hup'  animal.-,  however,  of  the  ton*st.  though 
as  much  terrified,  were  in  their  deeper  ignorance  not  more  re- 
sjw«-tful  than  thev  -hoiild  he,  even  though  ^rnii-  were  ahotit  ;  llie 
hunter  in  an  African  forest  can  never  he  too  much  impresMil 
with  the  importance  of  con-tant  vigilance. 

It  i-  no  uncommon  tiling  for  the  unu'arv  or  the  inexperienced 
to  find  thcm-elve-  -uddenlv  ehariri-d  hv  the  infuriated  nic'ii-ter- 
wlii-'h  thi-v  havi-  venture* I  to  in-ult  l<»n  audaeion-«lv.  Nearer 
the  cii.-i-f,  where  hunter-  have  ventured  more  coiumonlv,  we 
hnvc  n-ad  of  a  partv,  who,  taking  with  them  a  tew  native-, 
map-h'-d  into  the  tlirc-t-  to  "  l>a^  an  elephant  «'ir  l\\n."  The 
nativ---,  arra\'ed,  t"  their  delight,  in  "Id  .-hirls.  were  -ent  ahead 
it{iiip|M'd  with  nni-ket-,  to  tind  the  ^aine  ;  hardly  had  thev  di-- 
upp'-are<l,  \\heii  the  report-  of  their  ^iin-  <ji)ite  ni-ar  at  hand 
w>-r«-  otiicklv  followed  hv  a  tremendous  c-nt-hin^  "t  tree-  and 
hru-hwiMMl  and  th«-  dreudt'ul,  unmi-takahle  truni|M-t-like  -creaiu- 
inj-,  and  hack  the  men  came  followed  l>v  three  or  I'mir  huire 
e!. -phant-  in  turn'ii-  pur-nit.  '1  he  fleet  lmil>-  "I  the  men  were  ot' 

[ r  avail  ;  the  mon-tcr-  da>hed  over  them  in  a  nn>mcnt,  kin«'k 

:ii-_f  t!i''!u  ri/ht  and  left  a-  th'-v  pa--ed,  and  went  rii-hin^  auav 
int'.  lie-  dft-jH-r  Ji.re-t-.  Klephaiit.^  arc  elephant-  everywhere, 
niid  are  th<-  \iitim-  ol'  -kill  and  i-aiition  more  than  of'  the  fi.  r«v 
>oi;:.i  •'  '.-.  hi'-h  in  our  tancie-  \\  e  .-itmeiiinc-  dream  ot  matching 
a  raiii-i  '.'.  i id  1"  i-t-.  1  h<-  Manviiema  greatly  admired  tln-'-a-c 
•>\  .t  h  v.  !ii'  h  tie  -!  ra !r_'i  i^-  mad'-  t  hcin-cl  ves  ma-ter  of  t  ||,-~e  ^M'dit 
p;  /••  .  I'IM!  -ii'-h  i  mplovment,  though  it  >  nt«  I'taiin  d  the  nati\e-t 
|  M.'  .;  !  \  i  •  |>  D'  I  t  !i.  •  to;  I  and  e\  p«-n-i-  at  \%  Inch  Mohamad  had  <  ••HIM' 


UNSATISFACTORY.  •>''/ 

to  their  country,  while  they  exhibited  such  unwillingness  t<> 
trade.  He  had  heard  that  the  Maiiyuerna  were  anxious  for 
slaves,  and  had  brought  threat  numbers,  but  found  that  the  re- 
ports had  been  unfounded  ;  and  the  conduct  of  a  trader,  named 
Dngumhe  Hassani,  who  only  a  short  time  before  had  come  this 
far  and  indulged  in  great  barbarities,  under  pretence  of  biiving 
ivory,  had  excited  a  prejudice  against  the  Arab  guide,  wiiieii 
threatened  constantly  to  break  out  in  open  revenge.  Dr 
Livingstone  had  no  desire  to  sit  down  in  Barnbarre,  while  the 
Lualaba  was  flowing  so  near  him.  And  Mohamad  was  restless, 
while  his  slaves  were  eating  their  heads  oft".  Both  were  eager 
tor  action. 


CHAI'TKIi    XXVIII. 

MANY1KMA. 

Many  iii-ina    < -.untr\  -  Tin-    r.ir.unoiint    ('liicf     In<lf|x-iiilcnt    Village*— I. ivinif- 
H:..H-'H   ol.j.vt      I...n,,    |:.unl..irrr      Wi-twar-i     Splru.li.l  S-.-M-TV      Yill.i;;.", 
Ar.-ii:!.  - -t'.ir.-    •  •!"    M.inyu. -ma     <  hur.i.-t.  r    "t"    ii>,-     I'.-..|,i,-      ||i.i.|.-n    Yill.ii:,-> 
i  uri    -iiy    .•!     Viil.u'ir*      \'.\  il     lalhi.-nc,-    i-t'    'Ir.i'lrr-        I'r.-ju'ho-.-,    Ar"U«..,i    - 

I;,  tun.  I-  r..i:n''..irrv      I'jiji    11 1      /<•-    Jl<  .i:!n -I  f  ,'nnf      l.ivuij-l<'lu-'>   « '«.iu- 

|  .it,. "ii     Si-t»  ,.iit  lYi-iii  l..mil':irr«- Si-ri'ii'l  Tiim-      Aji]x-iiraiirr  of  <  ..uiiiry      llui> 

iuTr-.i      I  '.!•  |.l.  i.ii  '1  'r.i|»      K! Is  1  i-ii.i-     <  iii,ni|,rrs,-tii  l.nxi-      Ni  «  1\  \|;irri<  «1 

(  nii|ilc  I  >ri  .I'll  '•!,  >«  :i:r.  )•-  1'niiils  1 1  .i.|>ii.  i!  i  i  \  l'piii>i»<-"t"  I.--it<T  lliiiili-ptl 
A.M.;,  >:  .  .•  I  r  i  !.  i-'  r..iri..ir.ti---  I  >:.  .I>!M!  \I 'ir  M.  r-  K.it..in:i  •>  tainji  !>.•• 
».  rN-  i  I'S  1  '"'.':••'•'•  \  Nur-iii.-  l'i-h 

\li-.-:.i;i-       l.:\  ::./-t-iii  '-     Ili-sulutinti      <   lrim:i,    >u-i     .iirl     li.ir'lin-r      A     M:il) 

kii:.-l    M..  •-  M..!,. in. .1.1  i;..ji..ini.    A.N.V,  MHi.-ti. .n    i».-.ij.|.  .iniux-nt    i;.- 

tur:i  '.  lliini;..irr.  I... a-  M.-kn.-  \Ian_Mi.-ni.i  I  >r .  ...il^l  r.nniili.iN  III... .it- 
thir.ts  I»,  !i.-lit  in  M'ir.l.r  /•'.-  >,,',,->,  ,k. .  llm.l  >,.»...  .u.  I  I  ..-.|..Ar.i 
>..,...  ;ia-l  I.i-a  '  >..'KM  i-  :i  \I.in"  IHIJ..UI.-H.-.-  I '. -(-.ij.!.-!!,  y  l|..|.«-  1:,- 
s.s.-i  \|fii  ,iii>l  I.i-iii-r  Arrive  frmii  /.iii/il'iir  Ni-«  I  'jflii-uln.  «  'l'r.>ulil<- u  iih 
N.  u  M...  Au-.tli.  r  M.irl  (  ..n-.-i.-i,,---  »i-ur  Hi,  I'L.n  Hi,  l,.u.-i.u-  A 
^'..iirij'  "•••'».•.  ''a  N.-u  <ir.«uu'l  <  liannn.,-  >r«  in  rs  N'lll.i^.-  1  l.i|.|>iin •>«  - 
Tn.iU  II..'  l.u.u.i»..i  .it  I^-t. 

|-'i:i:i.i  s< .  hini-rlt'  a-  \\cll  n-tt-d  a-  lie  cniild  hope  \»  lie,  I>r. 
I^iviii^-tuni'  \\a-  nalnrallv  nnpatu  lit  to  }><•  alxuit  the  work  \\  hieh 
la\'  li.-t'.ii-i-  him;  I'lit  it  \\otiM  lie  an  intlietion  i.l'  iiiuiee«>*:irv 
\\--ariii-  --  "ii  the  i -i -ail.-r  i!'  we  -hotihl  lead  him.  ,-tep  I >v  -!.-p,  \\  it h 
tip-  •_'!•• -at  traveller,  det;:iiiiii^  him  uhei-ethe  h-T..  \\a-  iletained 
and  <  ":n|"  !iin_r  hiiu  to  ti'aver«<-  over  and  ov<  r  the  -aine  ^n>inul, 
a-  tii.-  a--t'>r  •>!'  tie-  -tury  \\a-  olil;._'.-d  to  do.  It  ~h..ii!d  1>.-  (...rn^ 
in  mind  t  hal  all  t  In-  ineid*  ut  -  in  t  h'  -••  event  till  \.ar-  \\ «  iv  \\  it  Inn 
a  eii-i  '••  o|  hardlv  out-  hundred  mi!---  diameter  a  ui!d  moiin- 

tall.'-H-  dl-tll'-t.  Ililialni'd  If.'  people  \\lin  ae!vl|o\\  ledi^eil  Ho 
p.ll'.illi..llllt  ehii-l',  hlllidl'i-il-  i.t'  ind'  [Mlid-  lit  \  ill. !_'.-.  l»t\\'e|| 

\>  hi   hii it    1 1 1 '   -\  u  i  pat  h\    or    nit'  r«  inir-e  e\i-ti  d.  \\  In  r<-  r\  i-rv 

in  in'-  h.nid  \'.  a-  a_'aiti-1  hi-  ii'ijhl'-ir.  'I'll''  ci'-at  ol.'^et  svlnih 
l.i.l  diavsn  I  >;•.  I  .i\'in-j-toiii-  ih.  r>  \\  a-  tip-  riV'T  \\lneli  t!"\\.d 
.»!•  Hi/,  a-  1 1-  k  in  '.\  .  -"Hi'  s\  hi  1 1-  "ii  t  h.  \\  >  -Ii  rn  hordi-r  "!  tin-. 
n..j:ili\,  a:. -I  .t  v.a-  n-  •<  •<  --arv  I"  pa--  through  tin  •-••  \sild-  in 


MANYLKMA    COUNTRY.  f,(X) 

order  tliat  lie  might  continue  hLs  explorations  til'  thai  river, 
which  In-  had  already  traced  from  its  source  near  Lake  Liemba 
through  the  IJungweolo  and  I^akc  Moero, and  which  lie.  hoped  to 
demonstrate  to  be  the  real  Nile.  Such  was  the  goal  toward 
which  he  was  straining  every  nerve,  for  which  lie  was  enduring 
all  things. 

His  first  journey  through  the  country  was  a  short  detour  from 
Bum  bar  re,  made  in  November,  1S7<).  Attended  by  his  own  men 
and  a  party  of  Mohamad's  followers,  he  set  out  westward  in 
hope  of  reaching  the  Lualaba  and  purchasing  a  canoe  ilir  its 
exploration.  This  *hort  trip  revealed  much  splendid  j-eencrv 
and  gave  him  some  insight  into  the  characters  and  cu.-toms  of 
the  people.  lie  describes  the  country  as  ".surpassingly  beauti- 
ful,'' and  the  villages  perched  along  the  ere.-ts  of  the  loftv  hills 
and  mountains  were  pictures  of  neatness  and  comfort.  Much 
forethought  as  well  as  taste  had  been  displayed  in  the  arrange- 
ment of  these  villages.  The  streets  were  generally  ca.-t  and 
west,  that  the  warm  sun-nivs  might  stream  down  them  with 
unbroken  power,  licking  up  quickly  the  moisture.  The  dwell- 
ings were  generally  in  a  line,  and  at  each  end  of  the  street  there 
were  public  meeting-houses.  The  houses  were  square,  with  low 
roofs,  most  artfully  thatched  with  a  leaf  resembling  the  banana, 
probably  a  species  of  the  euphorbia.  Within  these  humble 
abodes  were  clean  and  comfortable  and  testified  to  the  attentions 
of  industrious  housewives.  And  what  was  a  verv  pleasing 
feature  of  them  they  had  never  known  the  pre.-emv  of  the 
abominable  bugs,  which  are  to  be  found  only  where  the  lilthv 
slaves  of  the  Arabs  have  been.  In  each  of  these  homes  the  eve 
is  arrested  by  numbers  of  earthen  pots  hung  by  neat  cord- 
swinging  tres.-els  to  the  ceiling,  and  large  quantities  of  firewood 
neatly  arranged  by  the  provident  matrons. 

The  tops  of  the  loftv  hills  ami  mountain  crots  were  adorned 
with  magnificent  palm  fore.-ts  waving  gracefully  in  e\vrv  bive/e, 
and  saluting  each  other  across  intervening  forests  of  ^i^antii1 
trees,  about  which  most  vigorous  climbing  vines  twine  them- 
selves, reaching  from  branch  to  branch  and  dropping  here  and 
there  in  graceful  festoons  and  forming  fantastic  arches  every- 
where, beneath  which  various  wild  fruit  trees  grew,  feasting  with 
their  wealth  multitudes  of  monkevs  and  bird-.  The  country 


51C  STKANGK     rHAUAlTKRS. 

was  charming,  but  every  day  revealed  darker  shades  in  the 
characters  of  tin-  jn-oplc ;  deeper  degradation  had  never  eon- 
fronted  I>r.  Livingstone,  though  no  man  had  seen  so  much  of 

Africa  a-  he.  Kverv  village  seemed  to  IK-  cfetrangwl  from  all 
the  re>t  by  -ome  deadly  feud,  ami  every  man  needed  to  prottvt 
his  life. 

Their  eharaeters  al>ounded  in  .-trance  contradictions ;  eonspicu- 

;>u-ly  honc.-t  and  -iwvre,  they  were  al>solutely  distrustful;  with 
unquestionable  kindness  thev  joined  horrid  blood  thirsti  ness. 
Thi-  indeed  -cemed  to  be  their  one  great  blemi-h  ;  industrious, 
tenijM-nite,  hand.-omc,  honest  and  eleanlv,  thev  found  delight  in 
killing;  and  though  the  charitable  traveller  was  .-low  to  believe 
the  reports  which  were  floating  about  on  everv  bn-ath  of  their 
cannibal  projyensities,  he  was  destine<l  >o<m  to  ^ive  up  all  doubt 
c>f  it.  The  pn-ttv  village-,  M>  full  of  golden  .-unshine,  so  com- 
fortable and  neat,  were  all  entirely  isolated  ;  there  \\a>  no  cmu- 
luunietition  between  them;  the  man  from  one  who  ventured  to 
another  forfeited  his  ln-ad  without  judge  or  jurv.  Manvofthoe 
village^  were  almost  entirely  concealed;  >o  thoroughly  had  the 
wf>rk  lx-<'ii  done  that  a  traveller  ignorant  of  the  country  might 
eu-ilv  pass  within  a  lew  yartls  of  them  without  Ix'ing  aware  of 
their  proximitv. 

'1  he  mo~t  -t-riou-  annovance  e\perience<l  in  those  part.-  which 
had  lx'«-n  exempt  Irom  the  prex'iiee of  traders  wa-  in  theeurio.-itv 
of'  the  people,  who  were  entiivlv  unrestrained  bv  anv  .-en.-e  of' 
jirojinetv  ;  tlp-v  \\erc  the  mo-t  impertinent  ga/er-  the  doctor  had 
ever  -een,  and  though  ennsiderabiv  inured  !<>  the  ordeal  of  fret* 
m-p'-ct ion  \\liieh  everv  -tran^'f  mu.-t  submit  to  in  African  vil- 
la/'--, !»••  wa-  intoleniblv  boi-ed  bv  the  iiueea-iiii;  -tare  of'  men 
and  uotiieii,  who  <lid  not  hesitate  to  pu-h  <l<'\\n  the  dcnir  of  hi.-> 
lint  to  iiiilnL'e  their  curio-itv.  J'.nt  \\heu  he  came  into  the  di-- 
t  ri'-t-  u  hi'-h  had  been  \i-it.-d  bv  Hii/iimbe  1  la—an i'-  band-  then11 
rra-  _-raV' r  froiibli-.  lln-  iiinn  had  ventured  a-  tar  a-  I'am- 
burre,  a-  \-.  e  ha\'i-  -'•.•n.aii'l  gathentl  immeii-'1  i  plant  it  \>  •-  •  >l  ivorv 
in-!  b«-.'o|e  1 .1  vnrj'-totii1  and  Mohamad  I'm-jharib  came  into  the 
•  oi  i  nt  i  y  ;  h«  \\  .1-  t||,  In  -I  -it  1  he  1 1  ad-  I  -,  all'  I  though  he  had  pdie- 
tra!',|  ,,nl',  -.,  -ii.iit  a  'li-ran-'e  hi-  brutal  conduct  had  enraged 
tli--  'Aim!'-  p"piilal  i'»n,  and  \\\<-\  uniild  extend  i\»  ho-pitalitv  nor 
b-,!«  n  t..  o!l-  i  -  •>!  trad--,  imi  m-i-t'-d  on  tip-  -Irani;'  r-  U"inL'  a\\av. 


MOHAMAD    lUXiHAKIB.  T)H 

Xo  violence,  however,  was  offered,  and  great  caution  Helmed  to 
U;  exercised  bv  tlie  head  men  of  the  villages  to  avoid  any  eol- 
li.-ion  with  the  travellers.  They  were  in  great  terror  of  gun-, 
and  seemed  to  feel  that  their  lives  only  were  sought  and  that  all 
the  questions  about  ivorv  wen;  onlv  a  blind  Used  to  secure  an 
ad  vantage  of  them.  During  this  journey  the  doetor  came  withjn 
ten  miles  of  the  confluence  of  the  Lnama  and  the  Lualaba,  but 
it  was  impossible  to  find  anv  one  who  would  sell  him  a  canoe, 
or  anv  other  attentions  which  might  induce  them  to  remain  in 
the  country. 

He  returned  to  Bambarre  on  the  10th,  and  found  that  while 
he  was  away  a  large  herd  of  I'jijians  had  come  there  eager  for 
the  ivory,  rumors  of  which  had  already  spread  through  the 
countrv  and  produced  great  excitement.  Thus  in  the  verv 
initiation  of  tin's  new  expedition  he  found  himself  again  sur- 
rounded bv  the  disadvantages  which  would  inevitably  result, 
from  the  presence  of  the  most  vicious  characters  the  world  can 
produce.  Mohamad,  though  a  trader  buying  ivory  and  .-laves, 
belonged  to  a  better  class  of  men,  and  while,  if  circumstances 
had  permitted,  Dr.  Livingstone  would  have  preferred  other 
company,  he  was  kind,  and  too  respectful  of  the  views  and 
interests  of  his  companion  to  indulge  in  such  a  line  of  policy  a.- 
would  seriouslv  incommode  him  if  it  could  be  ea.-ilv  avoided, 
and  withal  conducted  his  business  with  more  of  the  spirit  of  the 
traders  who  had  escorted  the  doctor  through  the  countrv  of 
Nsama.  The  Ij'.U  company  had  live  hundred  guns,  and  were 
anxious  to  have  Mohamad  accompany  them  ;  he  declined  doing 
so  and  waited  for  Dr.  Livingstone's  return.  When  thev  wen; 
together  again,  Livingstone  tried  hard  to  LC''t  his  friend  to 
abandon  the  slaving  part  of  his  business,  but  it  was  no  easv 
matter  to  work  so  great  a  change  in  the  views  and  conduct  of 
one  so  long  accustomed  to  the  finding  of'  hi-  revenues  in  that 
unholy  traffic  ;  though  it  cannot  be  doubted  that  he  learned 
moderation,  and  caught  something  of'  the  spirit  of'  kindness 
which  pervaded  all  the  action-  of  the  (  'hri<tiun. 

It  was  the  day  after  ( 'iiri-tma-  before  our  partv  started  the 
second  time  from  Bambarre.  Thev  then  took  a  more  northern 
direction,  almost  at  right-angles  with  the  late  route  of  the  doctor, 
and  crossed  the  Luama  near  the  village  of'  Monaniroi.  and  on 


512  OMMI'KKSKXT    LOVE. 

fifty  or  sixty  miles  north  aero-.-  a  succession  of  forests.  In  manv 
plaevs  the  tbrots  had  U-vn  cleared  awav  and  gigantic  grasses 
had  iL-urjH.nl  the  clearances  ;  ;L-  they  ail vanced  large  trees  were 
now  an  I  then  parsed,  in  who-e  brandies  manv  parrots  had  made 
tiieir  n'*1-,  and  -ometime-  far  away  from  the  ground  thev  -aw 
hut-  ot'  men  lodged  on  the  huge  limbs  of  these  lonelv  sentinels 
like  watch-tower-,  or  places  of  refuge  for  their  builder-  from  the 
wrath  of  their  enemio.  The  villagers  thev  met  were  civil, 
lint  rii-h'-d  aliont  them  like  iioi-v  children,  and  manv  of  Mo- 
hamad -  follnWer-,  uuil-ed  to  the  \\avs  of  Sllell  wild  men,  were 
territied,  and  exjM-eted  everv  moment  to  be  killed  and  eaten. 
The  pi-ople  were  genemllv  model-  of  -vmmet rv,  and  their  art 
had  ilone  Inn  little  to  conceal  their  line  proportions  bc-ide  their 
nec|.. lace-  and  copper  riiiLT-  on  wri.-ts  and  ankles.  Their  :*kill 
\\a-  confined  to  the  arrangement  of  the  hair,  which  the  women 
-'cine.!  to  have  -pecial  ]i!ca-nre  in  weavmi:  into  ba-ket  liirm 
L  hind.  The  men,  thoii_-h  ma-tcr-  with  the  .-pear  and  the  bo\v, 
had  iv-orted,  like  manv  other  tril>e-,  to  trap-  for  the  coininon- 
plaee  work  of  -ecnring  game.  Huge  elepliant  trap-  were  .-ecu 
in  manv  places,  not  unlike  tho-e  de-cnbed  a-  in  u-c  m  the  -oiith. 
'I  he  coiintrv  \\a-  teeming  with  people  and  multitude-  of 
h.dden  villages,  which  \\  ere  approached  along  the  beil-  of  rivulets 
that  no  toot-mark  might  betrav  them  to  an  enemv.  No  higher 
law  than  lorcc  had  been  dreamed  of;  (he  idea  of  confederation 
had  never  penetrated  their  gloom  ;  a-  manv  independent  -tate- 
:L-  then-  were  villa.."--  crowded  t  hat  -mall  area,  and  blood  that 
cri-'d  !'>r  VeiiL"  aiice  -ci-nii  d  to  divide  and  i-olate  them  all.  The 
men  VM-IV  al\\av-  around,  and  ru-hed  about  them  eoiitinuallv, 
Iw-arm  '  le-a\  v  wooi|i-n  .-liield-.  Bui  tenderer  iia.--ion-  e\i-tcd 

I 

to. ,  ;  eliiMi  ,-n  plavi-d  a-  innocent  I  v  a-  an  v  where,  ami  lo\-e.  oinm- 

pf    -•   I,!    !o\  ,-,  for   <  |"H|    i-    1-iVe,   -hed    a    1  i  _' !  1 1    (vilicll.  t  liollgil   it  cullld 
liot    i.  Vi   1',.0'A  .   r    til-'    dark  lie--   of  t  he    deep   depravif  V,   did    -"t'tell    (lie 

•_'!nnm  a  little.       In  one    place    thev  -aw  a  newlv-maiTied    c..iij'li% 
•  land  in-.'  !  '\   t  h«-  w  a  v,  their  arm-  around  each  ot  her  lovm^lv,  and 

it.1-"!-,    m- •••!•.' d  th'-m    lor    their  love  a.-   more  enlightened   people 
1 1 1  i  _'  i  / 1    1 1  •  i  \  i     d  •  i  I  n  • . 

T!,-      inar«h!ie_'    v.  a-    v<-rv  difli'Milt;    the    fall    trra--    and    den-e 

Ve_"    '    |1  I,  ,l|.      eVe||       'A   !  I '    M       the      f.lMl-       -ll-pl-lldn  I  ,       III       tliril       Illlpeiled 

th'  :r  p:  "/:•--    and    dcii'li'd    them   \rith    their    dripj>in_'    leave.-. 


(illKAT    SfFFKIUNGS.  SH 

Dr.  Livingstone  soon  found   lii.s  strength   failing  again,  ami   !*•- 
came  the  prey  of  a  most  trying  disease;  Ixwiden  frequent  fevers 
lie    was   attacked   with   severe  choleraic    purging.      He   had    no 
medicine;    Mohamad  had  opium,  hut  that  had  no  cll'ect.      Some 
relief  was   found   in   boiling  the  water  which    lie  n-ed,  but   he 
stru^led  on  in  great  weakness.      Mohamad,  too,  suffered.     'I  he. 
incessant  wetting  brought  on  rheumatism,  and   the  whole  party 
eom|>laine<l.      As  thev  advanced   northward   the  vegetation   be- 
came more  and   more  luxuriant — the  whole  country  was  smoth- 
ered   with    it;   "an    indescribable  jungle   of   grass,  which   only  ' 
elephants  could   break   through/'  received   them  whenever  they 
descended    from    the    rounded    hills.       Passing    through    these 
jungles   the   feet   were  constantly   entangled    among   the   reeds, 
while   the   face  and   eyes  were    lashed    by    the   leaves.      One  of 
these  valleys  had  been  taken  possession  of  bv  the  Muabe  palm  ; 
the  doctor  says,  "The  leaf-stalks  of  these  palms  were  as  thick 
and  strong  as  a  man's  arm,  and   full   twentv  feet  long.      Manv 
of  these  had   fallen  off  and  blocked   up  all   passage  except  one 
path  made  and  mixed  up  bv  the  feet  of  buffaloes  and  elephants." 
"In   places   like  this,"  he  continues,  "the  leg  would  frequently 
sink   into  the  holes  made  by  elephants'  feet   up  to  the  thighs.'' 
Three  long  hours  the  party  toiled  through  this  dreary  swamp. 
Across  a  stream   in   this  valley  thev   found  a  natural   bridge  of' 
matted  vegetation  strong  enough   to  bear  a  man'.-  weight,  and 
conspicuous  in  the  texture  of  it  were  many  sacred  lilies.     Worn 
out  entirely  bv  these  dreadful  jungles  thev  stopped  one  day  bv 
a  village  surrounded  by  gardens  of  mai/e,  banana-,  groundnuts, 
and  cassava.     The  doctor  had   fallen   behind  the  main  body  of 
Mohamad's   men,  and  was   almost   fainting.      The  little  village 
looked  like  a  paradise;  he  longed  to  rest,  but  the  villagers  "did 
not    want  "    him.      A    woman    came   forward — a    woman    with 
leprous  hand — and  tendered  him   her  hut  ;   it  was  a  nice  clean 
one,  and   he  entered  it  just   in  time  to  escape  a  very  heavy  rain. 
Hi-  hostess  quickly  prepared   him   food,  and    brought    it  to  him 
and  kindly  pressed  him  to  eat.      "  You  are  weak  onlv  from  hun- 
ger." she  slid;  "this  will  strengthen   yon."      He  could  not  tell 
that    he  feared   the  leprosy,   and   took   the   food   and    put    it   out 
of  her  sight.      It  will   be  a  lon^  time  we  think   before  a  human 
being  travels  bevond  the  range  of  human  kindness.      There  can 


f»14  CKOr.NTW    OF    CONFinKNTF. 

hardlv  \)c  n  land  where  Inimnn  hearts  fail  utterly  to  answer  the 
touch  of  (tod'-  benevolence  in  deeds  of  love,  and  it  secm<  to  l«> 
woman's  otliiv  to  pn>«'rvc  longest  and  truest  tho-e  primeval 
irnpnl-c>  \vhii-h  redeem  oisr  fallen  state  from  absolute  sorrow, 
nnd  to  catch  mo-t  n-adilv  ihc  tenderer  inspirations  of  nature, 
which  restrain  our  evil  pas-ion-  like  the  will  of  I>eity.  Living- 
stone would  not  liaveln-en  himself  if  he  had  iaile<l  to  bless  the 
inotherlv  heart  \vhieh  ojH-ned  so  promptly  to  his  distress.  And 
we  \\ill  U-  le—  than  men,  if  the  veins  of  goodness  that  we  find 
in  barbarian-  are  lo-t  sight  of  in  otir  abhorrence  of  their  crime- ; 
!•-.-  than  < 'hri-tian-  if  the  degradation  of  a  people,  \\ho-e  ehar- 
aetfjvi  retain  evi-n  the  faintest  hints  of  a  rlaim  to  a  common 
brotherhood  with  n-,  moves  n<  n»t  to  compassion  ;  and  infidels 
it'  we  despair  of  wit n< -sMug  the  power  of  the  ( 'ro<s  to  elevate  any 
jH-ople  in  wlin-c  breast.-  there  are  the  fc«'ble>t  res|H>nses  tt>  the 
mandate-;  ot  iM-nevoleiuv. 

The  prejudicf-s  ot  the  villagers,  which  were  now  iM^xuninij 
>-o  annoviirj  a'_ran>,  were  owin^  t<i  the  fact  that  thev  were  c»ini!i|_p 
on  the  track  »\  the  herd  <>t  I  jijians  who  were  mentioned  ;i^ 
pa— in^  lianibarri'  -ome  tune  lw|..iv.  '1  he  traders  had  |MVOIIH> 
t!ie  one  -orrn\\  of  1  >r.  Living-totie'.s  life,  as  thev  were  the  ^r«  at 
ciir-c  •  >i  the  native-. 

Having  followed  the  f'himuncmnne  hill-  westward,  arid 
mad--  a  cin-mt  nt  the  hu!d«  r  liininango  hills  in  the  nei^liboi-h<HHl 
fit  th«-  nv<T  Ijira,  and  finding  lnm-clf  disappointed  -_rrcatlv  in 
hi-  hope-  ot'  reachiri^  the  Lnalaba  in  that  direction,  lie  turned 
-Onth  a '/a  in  with  Mohamad  and  c-imc  <l(»wn  seven  dav-'  man  h 
to  Mamohela,  where  Katomha  had  his  c:imp,  while  In-  emi--aries 
w-onreil  the  eiiiint rv  in  sejin-h  of  ivorv.  It  W.-L-  now  five  months 
-inee  Li vuiL'-toiie  reached  I'ambarre,  and  alnitdv  tin-  whole 
e.jiin'r\'  "t  Manviiema  ua-  -\\anniiej-  \sith  Aral>  trader-  and 
th'-ir  -lave  band-,  who  had  rushed  like  \  ultiii''  -  to  the  can-a-s 
«  n  the  v.oii'l.  rt'nl  re|i"i't-  \\hich  had  rea-'hed  tli-in.  Alivadv  lii>- 
\M)ri.  '••ni'd  t"  be  threatened  \\ith  in>  vitable  failure;  the 
atro<  iti«--  «.i'  lip-  band-  »l  -!a\e  -nlilit  r-  and  -ervant-,  t"  \\hoin 

the  \r.-.b-  .•..iinnifti-.l  tli--  work  of  ,-,  ,!!e,-j  in-/  their  1 |i  ,  had  MI 

Miraj'd  ?h'  Man\nenia  that  it  \\a-at  tin  n-k  »t  a  man'-  lit-- 
to  at'-iiipt  th«  -!i-.rt«-t  join  ;i- v  e\.  ,  pt  uitha-troti^  liij-ec  of 
anii'd  m-  n.  And  '.hi!'  h--  '1'uUl  not  -eparate  luni-e]t  from 


CHt'M.UI    AXD    sl>l. 


rill'MA,   KUSI    AND     (iAKDNKIC.  .')17 

tlioin,  it  was  very  manifest  that  the  trawlers  were  unwilling  to 
have  one  whom  they  considered  a  spy  taking  notes  of  their 
actions.  Kvery  day  there  came  fresh  reports  ol'  murders;  now 
twenty  killed,  another  day  forty,  and  again  ten,  on  most  trilling 
pretences.  In  the  midst  ol'  it  all  his  own  followers,  the 
Johanna  men,  all  hut  three,  li>rsook  him  ;  and  of  his  old  com- 
pany only  ('linma,  Snsi  and  Gardner  remained  to  him. 

While  lie  had  remained  at  the  camp  of  Katomha,  trvinir  '" 
retrain  his  strength,  Mohamad  had  gone  awav  alter  ivorv,  and 
he  was  left  with  his  own  little  hand;  these  were  now  onlv  three, 
hut  \\ith  them  we  find  this  wonderful  man,  the  Ia.-t  of  .June., 
1S70,  again  setting  his  face  northwest,  when  he  was  really 
hardly  ahle  to  walk.  We  hardly  know  which  to  admire  mo-t, 
the  courage  and  perseverance  of  the  explorer,  or  the  faithfulness, 
of  those  three  young  men,  who,  resisting  all  the  temptation-  of 
gain,  offered  by  association  with  the  Arabs,  and  facing  all  tin- 
perils  of  the  enraged  people  wh.»  they  were  now  convinced  were 
really  man-eaters,  marched  bravely  with  him. 

This  was  only  a  short  journey.  The  people  were  civil  for 
fear,  and  frequently  offered  food,  though  thev  did  not  hesitate  tu 
sav  that  they  onlv  allowed  the  stranger  to  live  because  thev 
feared  the  guns.  As  an  illustration  of  the  dreadful  outrages 
which  they  were  suffering,  Living-tone  passed  through  eleven 
villages  burned  about  one  string  of  beads.  I>e.-ide  the  evils 
invariably  attending  the  foravs  of  these  traders,  the  peculiar  con- 
dition of  the  Manvuema  gave  rise  to  innumerable  barbarities 
which  would  not  have  occurred  in  other  countries.  \\  e  have  re- 
marked the  singular  isolation  of  the  village-,  and  the  bitter 
feud-  existing  bet  we*  n  them;  the  foolish  head  menofthe.-e  vil- 
lages took  advantage  of  the  presence  of  the-e  marauders  and 
often  hired  bands  of  them,  bv  gifts  of  goat-  and  ivory,  to 
d'-ti'ov  the  village  of  their  enemies  ;  so  that  thev  were  in  their 
blindness  paving  for  the  verv  desolations  which  so  incensed 
them,  paying  the  Arabs  to  do  that  which  they  hated  them  >o 
bitterly  for. 

Surrounded  bv  such  gigantic  evils  an  ordinary  man  would 
have  hardly  been  able  to  think  of  the  rivulet-,  and  plant-,  and 
insects,  and  animals,  or  notice  the  little  peculiarities;  but  this 
man  had  an  eye  for  everything,  and  it  was  not  in  the  power  of 


518  A    SINKING    FROO. 

anything  which  left  him  life  to  prevent  him  throwing  lij^ht  for 
the  world  on  all  that  he  w;i.-  |M'rmitted  to  set'.  In  tin-  midst  of 
a  drenching  rain,  thoroughly  j»erplc.\ed  and  broken  down,  he 
sat  and  watched  the  antic*  of  a  tinv  fi.>'_r  which  leajKil  on  a 
gra.-.»v  leaf  in  front  of  him,  and  >an-j  for  imn  a  verv  -ueet  tune, 
us  clearlv  and  loudly  a<  a  l>ird  could  have  done;  and  all  his 
fatigue  could  not  repro.-  the  interest  he  felt  in  the  ludicrous 
problem  which  otvurrixl  to  him:  ''How  can  so  much  music 
come  out  of'  .»o  -mall  a  musician?" 

Another  >in^ular  cn-.iture  came  under  hi-  notice  —  :i  large  fi-h. 
which  a-toni-hed  him  with  loud  cries,  and  more  Mill  l>y  the 
exhibition  of  l>rea-t<  lull  of  milk  with  which  -he  nourished  her 
young;  and  lengthening  the  li>t  of  wonders,  an  elephant  with 
three  tu-k-,  one  of  which  ua-  j>l:inted  finnlv  on  hi-  |>rol>o-<-i-. 
]>ut  he  \v;is  not  onlv  dejx-ndcnt  on  tli<--c  lower  ordei>  lor  -onie- 
thin.:  to  l)rc:ik  the  force  of  the  trial-  whicli  oj»pre>-ed  him  —  the 
jM-ojilc  MMin  learned  to  di-tin^ni-h  him  from  tho--.-  with  whom 
In-  \va-  a--ociuted,  and  -cemcd  i_dad  to  jilea.-e  him  iVmn  other 
rea-on-  than  fear.  At  one  village  he  \\a-  entertaim  d  l>y 
mu-i'-ian-  who  brought  their  "  ealalnt-he-,  having  hoi.-  in  tin  in, 
flute  i:i-hion,"  and  di-jilaved  1>«  1'oiv  him  their  attainment-  i;i 
drum-lf  •aiinir  and  irrote-ijue  acting.  P»ut  he  could  not  lo-e 
M'_r!it  ot'  the  perilous  lili'  he  \va-  leading.  (  )ne  ni^ht,  not  far 
from  In-  -1'  e|nn_r-pluce,  -'line  one  entered  a  camp  of  sleeping 
Aral--  and  pimi'-d  one  of  their  nuniKer  to  the  ground  with  a 
•-pear. 

\\  e  can  -ee,  perhaps,  more  ch-arlv  than  he  -aw  it,  that  it  was 
a  kind  providence  which  liron/ht  him  into  the  path  ot  Mohamad 
l»'-ti.:-e  li.-  had  :idv:tnci-i]  manv  da\  -.  I''r»m  the-e  men,  \\lio  had 
li  •  n  a  eon-iderahli'  di-tanee  nurth.  In-  learned  that  the  Lualalia 
could  ii^:  !«•  -'-en  in  that  direct;.  .n.  Hew-tiM  lieolili^.d  t.. 
t  i::i  -o'l'ir.v^-f  a_ri;n  t»  r-a.-h  it.  He  knew  verv  well  that  he 
v  ^o  far  that  wav,  uniler  the  circiim-tanco, 
.\\.-r-,  and  lil:ii-.-it'  dn-adfullv  atlli-  te^l  \\itli 
n-  ti'.i|l>!e  \\a-  .-lie  v,lii<h  lie  had  iie\ere\- 
and  (hri-aleneil  to  liecollie  one  «if  the  -<'Vert-t 


I  rial  "    "I    It;-    lit--.       I  her.-    \«,  a-    no   alternative,    an 


i;m-    h''  turned    -adlv  l>aek  and  \\ith  ^reat  difli 


IIOltlUULK   CAN  MBA  I. ISM. 

lie  was  no\v  utterly  helpless;  the  sores  on  his  feet  had  l>e- 
eome  irritable,  eating  ulcers;  "if  the  foot  was  put  on  the 
ground  there  was  immediately  a  discharge  of  bloody  ichor,  and 
the  same  discharge  occurred  every  night,  attended  with  great 
pain.  This  dreadful  atlliction  is  common  in  all  the  slave- 
eamps,  and  the  cries  of  the  sufferer  are  a  nightly  sound."  Kn- 
tirelv  tlcprived  of  medicine  he  was  dependent  on  such  remedies 
as  could  he  furnished  by  Mohamad,  who  continued  a  .steadfast 
friend.  Ki'ditv  davs  he  was  confined  to  his  hut  not  able  to  take 

r^          .  * 

a  step,  and  months  alter  his  sores  began  healing  he  was  still 
obliged  to  remain  in  Hambarre.  lint  he  was  not  idle;  the  time 
was  improved  in  picking  up  knowledge  of  the  customs  of  the 
people  and  the  fiico  of  the  country,  which,  while  not  >osati-- 
lactorv  to  him,  was  some  eompensation  for  the  long  confinement. 
There  could  be  no  longer  any  doubt  about  the  varictv  of  the 
stories,  concerning  the  cannibal  propensities  of  the  people  of 
Manyuema;  instance  after  instance  came  to  his  ears,  and  over 
and  over  for  himself  he  saw  unmistakable  evidences  of  their 
barbarity.  The  people  of  other  districts  seemed  only  to  eat 
those  men  taken  in  battle,  and  the  idea  of' revenge  seemed  to  be 
prominent  in  their  minds  in  doing  so,  but  in  Bambarre  it  w;is 
clearly  the  depravity  of  taste:  the  people  were  eager  for  human 
fle.^h,  and  Mohamad  was  obliged  to  threaten  them  with  whole- 
sale slaughter  to  prevent  their  digging  up  the  dead  bodies  of 
his  men  who  died.  They  themselves  have  no  graves:  their  dead 
are  eaten.  The  skull  only  of  the  great  chief  Moenekus.s  was  pre- 
served; his  bodv  was  eaten  and  even  the  flesh  from  the  skull, 
which  had  been  carefully  scraped.  Th'-se  hoi-rid  creature-, 
horrid  in  this  single  disgusting  appetite,  would  as-emble  in 
crowds  about  the  village  where  an  execution  was  to  take  place, 
like  ravenous  wolves.  lie  had  found  rumors  all  through  the 
south  of  a  dreadful  tribe  of  man-eaters  in  the  northwest,  and 
had  counted  them  fables;  but  here  lie  was  in  the  mid-t  of  that 
verv  tribe,  talking  with  their.,  receiving  kindnesses  at  their 
hand-,  reallv  admiring  them  on  some  accounts,  struck  wi;h 
their  beautv  and  svmmetrv,  and  often  touched  with  little  exhi- 
bitions of  tenderness  displayed  bv  them.  He  could  hanllv  be- 
lieve his  own  senses.  It  seemed  so  unreasonable  that  people 
with  so  many  attractive  traits  should  be  the  most  barbarous 
31 


.r»20  \   IM:I:MH  M  ON    MIKDKK. 

of  all  iiu-ii  ;  I'tit  tlit-v  did  not  try  to  coiKfnl  their  craving  for 
liutiian  l»o  li»-,  and  \\.n-  iii)i}Uistional)ly  tin-  mo-t  bioodthirstv 

|Ki»ple     In:     had     eViT     -cell  ;     other     IlieU    \VOlllll     kill     ill    War  or    ill 

an^er,  th«~e  would  kill  li>r  pleasure1.  A  ;_rioup  inav  l>e  -ecu  :  one 
flep-  forward  a:i«l  put.-  a  -carlet  feat  in  r  on  the  Around,  ami 
elialli  nu'e-  llio-«- ni-ar  to -tick  it  in  tin-  hair  ;  the  man  who  accepts 
thi-  clialli-n^i1  mu-i  kill  a  man,  t<»  !><•  entitled  to  \\»  ar  the  M-ar!et 
!--at!nT.  There  i-  aimther  eii-!oni  \vhieh  t'orliid-  anv  one  to 
\\e;ir  the  .-kin  ot' the  niii-lveat  mile--  h<-  ha-  murdered  -omehodv. 
It  v. a.-  verv  i-lear  that  thev  \vould  take  ^n-at  |>lea-nre  in  killing 
e\'<-rv  <»ne  o)  the  M  ranker-,  it'  the  ijun-  were  not  in  the  \\av. 
And  it  i-  hardlv  \Viui(li*rfill  that  .-neli  a  di-po-ition  exi-te<l 
touard  th'-  lar^e  |KM!V  of  tlicir  vi>itors.  I  >r.  Livinn-tonr  had 
tried  vaiulv  to  check  the  cruelties  of  the  trader-,  and  various 
report-,  which  n  ached  him  from  time  to  timr,  couviueeil  him 
that  -"!!!.•  of  them  wen-  lie_'i  nnin_r  to  .-•  -e  I  he  \\  i -don  i  of  hi-  advice. 
The  Maiiviietna  \\viv  not  Imi^  in  finding  out  that  '_MIM-  «lnl  not 
alwav-  kill,  and  with  e\--i-\-  di-coverv  ot  that  .-or;  their  own 
\\  ea|  mi  i-  !'"-'•  in  th«  ir  apj»p  -elation,  and  thev  tV«  rjUcntlv  ventured 
to  JM-II  I.i'i'.'-,  -omrt iiii<--  \\nh  con-idcra!'!c  lo--  to  the  trader-. 
'I'h!-  add«'«l  I"  tie-  tact  that  their  mnrdcroii-  poiicv  nallv  l:iileil 
;..  pro -lire  tor  ih-in  tin-  covcti-d  ivorv.  it  \va- eanie-tlv  hojM-d 
v.  r.'i'd  produce  a  change  i;i  the  conduct  of  the  trailer-.  Thi- 
'•  .;-  not  reaii/'il,  houevcr,  while  it  wa-  in  I  >r.  Livin;_:-tonr'- 
• .  in  i  r  to  profit  I  '\'  it. 

Nc\t.  prolial-1  V.  to   the   pi  ojile  tliein-clve-i,  the   lilo-t    ill! i  rc-tillLT 

ol'j.ci   \\  !i;.-h   came  under   thenntieeof   IJviu^-toue  at  thi-  time 

•.'.  i-  an  animal    P  -emliliu^   tin-  LT"l'illa.      '1  hc-e  -trance  crcaturc- 

;',nd    ih'  ir  i -hoi.-c  haunt-  in  the  tall  -troii'/    -jra'--,  which   we  have 

•:!•  11!  i-i!ied  a-  u-urpm^r  -«i  promptly  c\'er\'  -ijuare  font  ot    ^nniiid 

l.iim-d     iV'-rn    the    fuv-t-.       Th«-v    oft. n    -jo    ep-et,    \\ilh    their 


a  .-I  a  :  lop-  unattractive  -pceimcn  of  animal  lite  cannot  he 
f  >:i::d.  Tie-  doc'nr  \\a-  tirmlv  conviii't'd  that  one  ot  the-e  m 
•  !i\  idiia!  \\oii'.'l  do  admira''!v  -tandinj'  f>r  a  picture  ..('  the 
-!•  .  '. !.  I!  i-  d«—  i  •:!-  d  a-  ha\  iie.r  the  m,,-!  di-Lru-tinj'  he-tialitv 
i  •'  a  j  >;  •«  .1  :.:•;'  •  .  I  ..•.•  mj-tone,  -j  •>•  :\  1  m_r  ot  him,  -a  v-  :  "  Hi-  li^ht 
\  -  !!•  c.v  !ae.-  -ho".  -  o;V  hi-  n.;l  v  \'.  In -!.•;•-;  hi-  f  n'ch-  ad,  \- illation- lv 
l'c.\,  \\ith  h'_'h  .  ir-,  i-  well  in  t!ie  liaeU^rouni]  of  the  ejreat 


THE    KOKO.  521 

dog-mouth  ;  thf  teeth  :uv  slightly  human,  hut  the  canines  show 
(he  hea-t  by  tlit-ir  large  development.  The  hands,  or  rather  the 
finder-,  are  like  those  of  the  native-.  The  flesh  of  the  feet  i- 
yellow,  and  the  eagerness  with  which  the  Manyuema  devour  it 
leaves  the  impression  that  eating  n>kos  was  the  first  sta^e  hv 
which  they  arrived  at  being  eannibals;  they  sav  the  flc.-h  i^ 
delicious.  Tin;  soko  is  represented  to  be  extremely  knowing, 
successfully  stalking  men  and  we •!)  while  at  their  work,  kid- 
napping children,  and  running  up  trees  with  them — he  seems 
to  l>e  amused  by  the  sight  of  the  young  native  in  his  arms,  but 
comes  down  when  tempted  by  a  bunch  of  bananas,  and  as  he 
lifts  that,  drops  the-  child  :  the  young  soko  in  such  a  case  would 
cling  closely  to  the  armpit  of  the  elder.  One  man  was  cutting 
out  honey  from  a  tree,  and  naked,  when  a  soko  suddenly  ap- 
peared and  caught  him,  then  let  him  go:  another  man  was 
hunting,  and  missed  in  his  attempt  to  stab  a  soko:  it  sei/.ed  the 
spear  and  broke  it,  then  grappled  with  the  man,  who  called  to 
his  companions,  "Soko  has  caught  me,"  the  soko  bit  off  the 
ends  of  his  fingers  and  escaped  unharmed.  Both  men  are  now 
alive  at  Bambarre. 

"  The  soko  is  so  cunning,  and  has  such  sharp  eyes,  that  no  one 
can  stalk  him  in  front  without  being  seen,  hence,  when  .-hot.  it 
i-  alwavs  in  the  back  ;  when  surrounded  hv  men  and  net-,  he  i1^ 
generallv  speared  in  the  back  too.  Otherwise  he  is  not  a  verv 
formidable  beast  :  he  is  nothing,  as  compared  in  power  of  dam- 
a^iiiLC  his  assailant,  to  a  leopard  or  lion,  but  is  more  like  a  man 
unarmed,  for  it  does  not  occur  to  him  to  use  his  canine  teeth, 
which  arc  long  and  formidable.  Numbers  of  them  come  down 
in  the  forest,  within  a  hundred  vards  of'  our  camp,  and  would 

9 

he  unknown  but  for  giving  tongue  like  fox-hounds  :  this  i<  their 
nearest  approach  to  speech.  A  man  hoeing  was  stalked  bv  a 
soko,  and  sei/ed ;  he  roared  out,  but  the  >oko  giggled  and 
grinned,  and  left  him  as  it'  he  had  done  it  in  play.  A  child 
eaught  up  bv  a  soko  is  often  abused  bv  being  pinched  and 
scratched,  and  let  tall.  One  of  these  animal-  is  not  unfre- 
(jucntlv  known  to  kill  leopards,  by  sei/ing  both  paws  and  biting 
them  otV  so  as  to  disable  them  ;  he  then  goe-  up  into  a  tree  and 
groans  over  his  wounds,  and  sometimes  recovers  while  tin- 
leopard  dies.  At  other  time^  lie  pays  for  life  of  the  leopard 


522  II A  HITS    OF    THi:    SOKO. 

with  his  own.  !!••  find- a  rougher  customer  in  the  lion;  thi.-^ 
powerful  animal  i-  more  than  a  match  for  even  the  cunning  of 
the  soko,  ami  often  not  only  kill-  him  but  tears  oil'  his  limlw 
in  his  furv. 

'•  The -..kos  have  some  singular  customs,  and  are  the  objects 
of  singular  -ujK-r-titions  ;  thev  collect  together  and  make  a 

drumming  noi-e onie  sav  with  hollow  trees — and  then  htir-t 

forth  into  loud  veils.  He  s<-cms  not  to  be  particularly  danger- 
oii-,  and  manifests  no  d\sj>osition  to  molest  unarmed  men  or 
women.  If  he  i-  womided,  he  is  satisfied  with  simply  biting 
on"  the  tinker-  of  his  assailant,  and  spitting  them  out  ;  he  then 
slap-  the  cheek-  of  hi-  victim,  ami  biting  a  few  times  without 
breaking  the  -kin;  he  then  draws  out  the  s|>car,  and  stud's 
leaves  into  the  wound  to  staunch  the  blood.  Thev  eat  no  lle.-h, 
but  are  \  erv  t<»ml  of  banana-.  The  Manvtiema  hold  them  in 
much  respe-'t,  and  sav  of  them,  'Soko  i- a  man,  and  nothing  had 
in  him  ;  '  thev  believe  that  the  dead  who  e-cape  beinir  eaten  ri-e 
as  -oko-.  lint  notwithstanding  their  n-peet  for  them,  tin v 
devour  their  fl<-h  rno-t  ravenously,  and  account  it  a  i_rreat 
luxury.  I  he  -oko-  are  <jiiite  social  ;  they  live  in  communities 
of  alx'iit  ten,  i-ach  having  hi-  own  female;  an  intruder  from 
another  camp  i-  beaten  off  with  their  fi-t-  and  loud  veil-.  If 
one  trie-  to  -ei/e  the  female  of  another,  he  i-  caught  on  the 
ground,  and  all  unite  in  boxing  and  biting  the  oilender.  A 
male  of'ten  carries  a  child,  especially  if  thev  are  pa--in^  from 
one  patch  of  forest  to  another  over  a  <jra-s v  -pace  ;  he  then  ^ivc.s 
it  to  t  he  mot  her. 

While  I  )r.  Livingstone  wa-  lvin'_r  at  Piambarre,  rejiorts  were 
eon-tantlv  comintr  of'  the  pro-jre--  of  the  trader-  through  the 
eoiintrv:  and  it  wa-  an  a-j^ravat  ion  of  In-  suffering*  to  know 
that  \\hi!e  hei  |,\-  the  unfaithfulne—  of  hi"  own  -ervart-  and  the 
bad  eondiict  of  the  trader-,  ^a-  bound  alnio-t  hand  .a;  d  foot. 
theve  t  rider-  wen-  aln-adv  «-catfcr«-d  al«>ng  t  he  bank  -  of  the  ^-reat 
river.  I?  -<-emed  hard  that  thev  uho  had  at  li- art  onlv  the 
rneatie-l  obje<-t-,  and  found  th«ir  delight,  ni"fe  than  anvthini; 
•!  -e,  in  murder  and  plunder,  \\  eut  -o  f  Ve.  l\-  w  he,  e  I  !M\-  plea-«  d  ; 

•A  In'e    lie.    '« '!l_MIIL.r    to    -o|\'e    t||e    'JTeat      pfollletn    of'    ^o    InailV    ceht'I 

:•;.-,  and    f:'!.-!   -.\ifli    |..ve  f,,r  t he-e  p.. (>r  degraded    U-ing-,  could 

.••!'.•    -it     and     wait     a-    patieutlv    a-    |i"--ib|e.        ||e    coiiid     not     U< 


i 


(iRF.ATLV  _ 

Ritisficd  to  alxmdcn  his  undertaking,  lie  felt  confident  that 
lu?  held  the  key  to  the  great  mystery  :  how  eould  lie  go  back' 
before  lie  had  unlocked  it?  And  vet  he  knew  verv  well  that 
the  longer  he  was  delayed  the  more  difficult  it  would  he  to  ac- 
complish his  object.  He  had  left  t'jiji  elated  with  the  thought 
of  being  beyond  the  range  of  tin;  miserable  slaves;  he  had  been 
overtaken  and  passed  by  them,  and  grieved  to  feel  that  science 
and  civilization  must  be  kicked  about  in  their  nobler  mis>ion 
by  such  embodiments  of  meanest  selfishness.  But  it  had  been 
so,  and  will  be  so  until  science  and  civili/ation  are  championed 
as  they  should  be  by  their  friends;  until  the  hand  of  power 
sweeps  the  unhappy  continent  of  the  vicious  representatives  of 
the  .-lave-trade.  As  the  davs  and  weeks  passed,  he  found  le.-s 
and  less  satisfaction  in  recording  the  various  bits  of  information 
which  floated  to  him.  lie  had  written  to  Dr.  Kirk,  and  received 
no  reply.  Sometimes  he  felt  that  he  would  be  obliged  to  give 
up,  but  it  was  like  giving  up  life;  he  was  willing  to  lay  his  life 
down,  if  he  eould  onlv  secure  success.  At  last  there  came  news 
of  men  and  means  being  on  the  way  to  him.  lie  became  more 
hopeful  then.  His  interest  revived  in  everything  ;  the  customs  of 
the  people1  were  an  entertainment  again.  With  the  hope  of 
being  soon  on  the  path  again,  he  heard  with  great  plea.-ure  the 
experience  of  Mocnemokata,  who  had  seen  more  of  the  Africans 
than  most  of  the  Arabs.  It  was  the  testimony  of  this  man, 
"that  it' a  man  would  only  go  with  a  good-natured  civil  tongue, 
he  could  pa~s  through  the  worst  tribes  unharmed,"  and  the 
Manvuemail  need  not  be  an  exception.  He  did  not  need  to  be 
told  this,  but  he  was  glad  to  hear  it  as  the  experience  of  others. 

At  la-t,  earlv  in  February,  1X71,  his  men  arrived.  It  was 
cheering  to  his  wcarv  heart  that  there  were  those  anxious  to 
aid  him.  lie  now  found  that  one  great  difliculty  which  had 
been  in  the  wav  of  sending  him  assistance  had  been  the  dread- 
ful ravages  of  cholera  along  the  coast  and  at  Zan/ibar.  This 
dreadful  disease  had  followed  the  trading  paths  into  the  interior, 
where  it  became  a  dreadful  scourge  and  swept  away  thou.-ands 
of  people. 

The  hopes  which  had  revived  at  the  coming  of  men  were  -ad!v 
disappointed  in  those  who  presented  themselves.  There  were 
onlv  ten,  all  of  them  slaves  of  the  Banians,  who  are  subjects  of 


A    <.,))!>    CO.Vx'lEXrE. 

the  British  erown  ;  \>\i'.  tln-v  came  \vitli  a  lie  in  their  mouths. 
Tlu'v  <wore  that  they  had  U-eti  instructed  not  to  £<*  with  th« 
doetor,  luit  to  eompel  liiin  t«>  return  to  /an/il>ar.  And  l>nt  tor 
the  fear  of  pi-lol--hot  aii<l  the  interferenee  of  Mohamad  llojjha- 
ril>,  tlie\-  would  have  -ti<vevded  iii  their  nefarious  >eheme. 
After  a  Lireat  deal  ot'  worrying,  tin-  Ih'th  of  February  -aw  thi.s 
MH'_ni!arlv  patient  au<l  per-everin^  man  a-jain  on  tin- road.  Th<» 
villager-,  a-  we  have  -aid.  had  alivadv  nh-erved  tin-  di  Herein  v 
l>et\\een  I  >r.  I .iviiiLr-'onr  and  the  other  strangers,  and  tin  \  were 
partieulurlv  'jnitifn'd  and  a~  iinn-h  a<toni>hed  that  he  alwavs 
ili-.ilt  ~o  t'airlv  \\ith  th<Mn.  and  thiv  \\nv  reallv  much  more 
oldi-jiii'j  tlran  he  had  anv  hope  of  finding  them.  It  wa<  tin- 
-am»-  ix-autit'iil  and  luxuriant  eoiuitrv  \\hirh  he  had  travi-r-d 
lo-tl  in-,  ;»nd  the  -ame  n«-al,  -••dndt-d  vill:i'j«--.  Hi-  In-art  w;t- 
Vfi-v  mu.-h  dra\\n  out  to  tin-  ]ir»plr.  II<-  MHi^ht  to  do  tln-ni 
i^ood  ;  thi-n-  i-  an  aiv.-nt  of  -adm-—  aKoiit  it,  luit  ii  Im-athe-  a 
-pint  -o  exalted  that  \v«-  l«-«-l  like  ni~t-rnn-_r  a  pani^raph  In  r<-, 
whifh  r.-tl-r-  partieiilariv  to  the  tit-lin_r-  \\ilh  \\lii''ii  he  had 
pr. .~e.-nt.-il  hi-  work. 

"  In  tlii~  jonrnev."  he  write-,  "  I  have  endeavored  to  follow 
with  iin-uervm^  lidelitv  the  1m, •  of  iltitv.  M  v  emir-e  ha-  heen 
an  even  one,  tnniniLT  n>  nh.  r  to  the  ri'_rlit  hand  nor  to  the  left, 
ihoii'jh  mv  route  In-  been  tortiioii-  enough.  All  the  hard-hip, 
hunger,  and  tod  were  m>-t  wnh  the  lull  convietion  that  I  \\a- 
ri'_dit  in  [M-r-everm-j  to  makf  a  eomplete  work  o(  the  exploration 

of'    the   -olir<e-    of    the    \|le.         Mine     |i;i-    |M,-||    a   '  -.1 1  I II .    llopelul    e||- 

ii.-:i\-or  to  do  the  \v,,rk  that  ha-  l><'<-\\  L.'i\'en  me  to  do.  \\ln-th.  r  I 
-U  -.-.  ,  -d  or  \\hetlier  I  till.  1  h>-  pl'o-p.  '•(  o|  d.ath  III  pur-Mill:; 
nhaf  I  knew  to  }*•  ri^ht  did  not  make  me  \.  i-|-  to  one  -nle  oi- 
theoth-t.  I  had  a  -troirj-  pf.-.  lit  i  lip  lit  dnrii!^  the  fir-t  thi'.-e 

\e;i'--      that      I      -holl!<l      (le\e|-    llVi-     throlljh      the     i  1 1 1 ,  I  | -H -« -.    lilit      it 

u .  a','  !i.  d  a-  I   i"i:ue  ii.-ar  to  t  IM   end  o|  tin-  joiinirv,  and  an  ea  ;-  r 

j. --•!•••  fo  .|i-,-ove|-  an1/  i  \ '••]•  n ••••  "I    the  jr. -at    M ..-,•-    having    \  i-- 

•••1   ili'-«-  part-  l.o'ind    in.-,  -p.-!!-liouiid    m>-.    I    mav  -av,  (,,r  i!'   I 

r--.i]!i|    !i:in_'    t',  !i_'hi    an\  thiicj    t».-onlirni    the    -aer--d    orai-Ii-,    I 

M.ii'd    not   -iaid_'e  one  \\!iit    all   th.    kal».,r  -  \  p-  -nd'-d.       I    ha\e  to 

_">  do-\  i)   the    <>  Mtr.il     I.ua'al'.-i    o'-   \\'.  ii!i'-     Lake    rivr.   tln-n    up 

M,     \\  .  -'•  1:1    or    V-nn.:'-    1,-ike    nvi-r    to    Katanga    In  ad   \s  at-  i  -, 

3M-I   »h<  n   !  -  t ;  !'•  .       I    pi'av  'h.it    U    ina\    1"-  to  mv   i;:i!i\.-  land." 


A    YOUNG    SOKO.  527 

As  lie  extended  his  acquaintance  with  the  Manyucma,  he  felt 
more  ;i:id  more  that  their  great  want  wa.s  national  lift-.  The 
isolation  of  their  little  village  communities  wax  an  unmitigated 
evil.  The  Arabs  whom  he  met  as  IK;  journeyed  all  seemed 
anxious  to  appear  kind,  and  added  to  his  store  such  little  com- 
forts as  they  had.  Out  of  the  supplies  which  he  had  received 
Livingstone  carefully  refunded  all  that  he  had  received  from 
them  during  the  davs  of  his  dependence!.  Katomba  presented 
him  with  a  young  soko,  which  had  l>een  caught  when  it.-  mother 
was  killed.  The  account  the  doctor  gives  of  this  little  creature, 
written  while  she  was  in  their  company,  is  exceedingly  inteiv.-t- 
ing.  I  Ie  .-avs  : 

u  She  sits  eighteen  inches  high,  has  fine  long  black  hair  all 
over,  which  was  prettv  so  long  as  it  was  kept  in  order  bv  her 
dam.  She  is  the  least  mischievous  of  all  the  monkey  tribe  I 
have  seen,  and  seems  to  know  that  in  me  she  has  a  friend,  and 
sits  (juicily  on  the  mat  beside  me.  In  walking,  the  first  thing 
observed  is  that  she  does  not  tread  on  the  palms  of  her  hand-, 
but  on  the  backs  of  the  second  line  of  bom.-  of  the  hand-:  in 
doing  this  the  nails  do  not  touch  the  ground,  nor  do  tin- 
knuckles;  .-he  uses  the  arms  thus  supported  ertiteh-iii.-hion,  and 
hitches  herself  along  between  them  ;  occasionally  one  hand  i-> 
put  down  before  the  other,  and  alternates  with  the  feet,  or  -he 
walks  upright  and  holds  up  a  hand  to  any  one  to  carry  her.  It' 
refused,  she  turns  her  face  down,  and  makes  grimace-  of  the 
most  bitter  human  weeping,  wringing  her  hand.-,  and  sometimes 
adding  a  fourth  hand  or  foot  to  make  the  appeal  more  touching. 
Grass  or  leaves  she  draws  around  her  to  make  a  ne-t,  and  re- 
sents anv  one  meddling  with  her  propcrtv.  She  i-  a  mo-i 
friendlv  little  beast,  and  came  up  to  me  at  once,  making  ln-r 
chirrup  of  welcome,  smelling  mv  clothes  and  holding  out  1:.  r 
hand  to  be  shaken.  When  she  was  bound,  .-he  began  to  ii'.itie 
the  cord  with  tinkers  and  thumbs  in  ouite  a  -vstematic  wav.  -UK! 
:>n  being  interfered  with  by  a  man,  looked  daggers,  and  -T  min- 
ing tried  to  beat  him  with  her  hands.  She  \\a-  afraid  of  hi-; 
stick  and  facet  1  him,  putting  her  back  to  me  a-  a  fri-  ml.  She 
holds  out  her  hand  for  people  to  take  her  up  and  carrv  her, 
quite  like  a  spoiled  child  ;  then  bnrst>  into  a  pa.-.-ionate  crv, 
somewhat  like  that  of  a  kite,  and  wrings  her  hand.-  -piite  nutu- 


,'>2$  A    VILLAGE   SCKNE. 

rally,  as  if  in  de-pair.  She  eats  everything,  covers  herself  with  a 
mat  to  sleep,  and  wipe.-  her  face  with  a  leaf,  as  naturally  as  one 
of  us  can  with  a  handkerchief." 

He   left    Mamohela  on   the    1-t   of  March,  his  part v  swelled 
somewhat  l>v  the  addition  of  -even  of  the  Arab's  ix-ople  «'oini» 

II' 

on  to  bnv  ivory.  He  wa-  on  new  territory:  his  former  trijw 
hail  not  extended  farther  wot  than  Mamohela  ;  now  he  wa.s 
destined  to  reach  the  Lnalaha.  Thev  advanced  between 
ranges  of  mountain-,  ero-.-inir  innumerable  rivulet-.  The  peo- 
ple were  generally  kind,  and  felt  themselves  fnllv  remunerated 
bv  a  few  -trin;:-  <»f  bead-,  which  Livingstone  alwav-  gave  a-  an 
acknowledgment,  although  nothing  was  a.-ked.  Manv  of'  tin* 
village-  whieh  he  pa— ed  were  uniisuallv  pn-ttv,  -landing  on 
slope-,  tin-  neat  lint-  facing  the  bright  sunnv  -tivet.  In  front 
of'  tin-  door-  little  verandahs  were  often  made,  and  here  at 
dawn  the  familv  >j;a!lnT-  round  a  lire,  and,  \\hile  enjoN  in^-  tlm 
In-at  needed  in  tln-eoM  that  alwav- aer»iin panics  the  Jir-l  dart- 
itr_r  of  tin-  li'^hf  or  -nn'-  rav-  aero--  tin-  atmo-phere.  inhale  the 
•  lelieioii-  air,  and  talk  over  their  little  domestic  al'liur-.  The 
varion-  -haped  leave-  of  the  fore-t  all  around  their  village  and 
in-ar  their  nestlings  are  Ijespanglcd  with  mvriad-  of  dew<lrops. 
The  coek-  crow  vigorou-ly,  and  -t  rut  and  ojle  ;  tin-  kid-  L'ambol 
and  lea|i  on  the  baek-  of  their  dam-  ipiietlv  chewing  the  end  ; 
otln-r  -joat-  make  believe  fighting,  Thriftv  wive-  often  bake 
their  in-w  elav  pot-  in  a  lire,  made  bv  li-jhtiiiLT  a  heap  of  ,_T;I-- 
root- ;  tin-  in-xt  morning  they  extract  -alt  from  the  a-he>,  and 
-o  two  bud-  an-  killed  with  one  -tom-  'I  he  beanlv  of  this 
morning  -erne  of'  |icaeefnl  enjovmenl  i-  inde-cribable.  Infancy 
•_'i!d-  tin-  f'airv  pntnre  with  il-  own  Inn-,  and  it  i-  prohahlv 
ne\  er  fin 'gotten,  fir  the  \oini'_r,  taken  np  from  -laver-.  and 
treited  with  all  philanthropic  mi  — mnarv  «-are  and  kiinlin---, 
-till  r«  vei't  to  the  peri,,. |  of'  infanev  a-  the  fitn  -t  and  fiiire-t  thev 
have  known.  I  ln-v  \\onld  gn  baek  to  freedom  and  enjovmenl 
a-  !a-t  a>  would  our  own  -on-  of  tin  -ml.  and  be  lieedle—  to  the 
hirm-  of  hard  \\ork  and  im  plav,  whieh  oiir  bi-nevolenee  -o 
r..nli!\  r....ji,i/.-  a-  IH-I  f,,r  tlnm.  The  terror  of  the  A  rabs 
ii't-l  niieln-d  -nine  o!  t  In-.-  \il  ia_" -,  and  tin-  people  ||.  d  \\ln-n 
•!."•.  heard  that  -t  ranker-  \\  <  i'e  approaehniLf,  -niipo-i  n-_r  it  to  be 
a  i:  Arab  par'-.  .  Tin-  farther  he  \\int  tin-  more  horrible  -!,,rie. 


THE    HANKS   OF   THE    M'ALAKA.  5_'!J 

of  blood  met  him.  Hassani  was  waging  most  malicious  war 
everywhere  lie.  wont  ;  ho  declared  that  ho  did  not  begin  hostili- 
ties, but  falsehood  scorns  to  be  the  peculiar  accomplishment  of 
the  whole  race.  Hut  there  was  trouble  also  in  his  own  little 
camp.  His  Hainan  slaves  were  bad  enough  alone,  but  thov  were, 
worse  after  associating  with  the  Arab  slaves  who  had  joined  tho 
partv.  Their  rebellion  began  to  show  itself:  thov  became  very 
insubordinate,  and  began  their  efforts  of  compulsion,  which  they 
would  not  hesitate  to  accomplish  by  anv  possible  agencv. 

Thus  surrounded  by  difficulties,  Livingstone  reached  Xy- 
angwo,  on  the  banks  of  the  Lualaba,  the  .'50th  of  March,  1H71, 
and  found  it  a  might v  river,  full  three  thousand  yards  broad, 
and  always  deep,  and  embracing  many  large;  islands.  Its  deep 
banks  were  also  very  stoop.  He  had  reached  the  river:  we  will 
sec  now  whether  he  roali/od  the  hopes  which  had  sustained 
him  in  all  his  wearying  journeys. 


NECKLACE    MA1>K  or   HI  MAX    FIN(JKU  I'.uNKS. 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 

I-'oril    MONTHS    AT    NYAMJWK. 

Tli*   Lualaba— Alx-'l  an-l    il:i>-:mi     Tin-  IVmjMT  of  the  Trader*— Livingstone's 

.Situation  Tli--  1  >itlt.-ti!ty  Wriiiiii;  Materials  Nyaiu'W!-  Markct-Wuim-n  - 
(ill. in. 1  Y.  ni  n-.:  Tli«- Mark.-t  S.-I-IH-.  K.I-.TIM-S  i'..r  ISart«-r  1  ii'l.  |.<'iiu.-n«-.-  ..f 
Woini'ii  1 1  n  IliiMan  Skull*  CuniiilmliMli  I  >itli<-ultv  of  ^rltinir  a  (  anm-  - 
Ivory  Th<-  IJ.iku--.  A  <  liararl.  ri-!u-  Maii.i-u\  P-  l:.ikii*>'  <  >|>imon  nt'dim* 
-  Ar.it.>'  H.M  ,,f  Ilii«iin •--  A  l-'ii  iuli-li  I'l'.t  i'u_-iiiiil»i-  No  A-MMaiii-.- 
\V,,tl.|.  rfil  I  .:.!.  T/r.-iii,.!  II. .11-.-  Tin  !V,,,,1,- .ifl'.ua  "  1 1,  •artlm-knii..-^  " 
I»i-aj.]H,;tit...|  Itt'-rly  ILautitil!  1'ii-tiin-  lili^'lit''!  I  >ri-.i(l!ill  SlalU'htiT  - 
Thr.r  11  in. Jr.  I  .11.  I  I'.irty  I>.-.i>l  Mi|»  i »  i.  k.^iu.  ->  'I'....  Mu.-li  t..  l;«-ar  K.- 
h"l\.-l  I..  iU-ltirn  I  iiij-.riuii'  'i  l>y  iln-  Naiivi-^  I  ><•'.<  niiin.  .1  I'r.. \niciu-c  in 
tin-  |li»a|>}Miiiitliii-:i!  |'r  •,:•!.!..•.•  :u  .ill  'li,:i,j-  l':..i..iii  IM.TI-IN  A 
I».-|..it.li  Jain.  -  (  i..p|.  Ii  I'.,  -tiijrtt,  -Ir.  ll.i.rv  MM.uiliV. 

Till:  Ljn-at  river  ulii<'li  lie  li;ul  .-mi'^ltt  >"  Innpj  and  ><»  n>o- 
ititrlv  \\:i>  rolling  at  hi-  li-ft.  Jt  \\  a.-  a  iiddr  riv»-r,  wnrtliv  ol' 
Ix-in^  tli"ii^'!n  ut'  a-  tin-  mar  relative  <if  aiiv  water  mi  earth. 
The  -i;_'hi  ••'  ii  had  en-t  oreat  -aeriliee  and  fiitli-rin^.  I  >r. 
Liviii'^-tDliP  s-.iKwl  \\illin^  tn  veiitun-  tiir  inure  than  he  had  en- 
dured in  tilldui^  cut  the  -eeivt.-  It  liil^ht  1»-  al)le  to  ili>elu.-r. 
\\nl  then-  were  U-tiire  liint  mi  I  ho.-e  .-teep  l>ank-  ineti  wlm  had 
ID  hviupatliy  with  hi-  enierpri-e,  \\h<(  e.uild  -e«  in  him  <>nlv  the 
rejii -e-eiitati\ T  <il'u  iiaiic'ii  \\liu--e  unrelenting  li<i\\n  re-ted  en 
tiieir  l»ai  harities  ;  ami  at  the  hand-  <>!  thc.-e  men  lie  eoiild  IKI|K' 
\'»r  little'  that  iniu;ht  in  anv  \\av  facilitate  hi-  \\'>rk.  At  tlnir 
hand-,  in  laet,  \\c.-hall  ,-ee  that  he  met  the  re-i-taiiee  \\hieh  at 
l:i-t  '•nin|i,-lled  him  to^piia\\av  iViini  the  river,  to  him  -u  lull  «>l 

pl'i Mil-',    !••    relin<|U!-Il     \\liat     ('•    him    -eelll'd     Ilk''    Jm-ilive    -lleei-^-, 

v,  in  n  a  I-  \\    liiui-e  vi^'ii-nii-    -Hoke-    mi-ht    have    lirmi^iil    In  him 

l!  -    -Uei  I     !  .  :tl  |/. it  KM. 

111.  \i  iii  trader-  uh'i  wen-  liiiind  otalih-lii-d  at  Nvan^uo 
'.n  1  )r.  l.;,;n_;  tune'-  ,irn\al,  Al"d  and  Ha*-ani,  \\iie  men 
ti.  .'-.I  ...:,-  f./i'  tiieir  liarl.arili' -.  Thev  \\ep-  a--",  -iated  \\ith 
1  '  ,.•  i  MI  1 1.  ,  •.-.  h'i  '.\  a.- 1  him-eir  ali-ent.  \  •  <t 'A  it  h-tand  m  j-  prnle-- 
t,-  :'n  -  ni  : .  .•  :r  ii  \  1.  el.ii-  aii'I  ir»mi-ev,  ii  •  < . •  ,.1  >  a!  i<  >\i,  il  u  a -.-<•< MI 


TEMPER   OF   THE   TRADERS.  l 

very  evident  that  these  men  were  determined  to  eoinjx'l  the 
Englishman  to  go  out  of  the  country.  They  did  not  dim-  to 
attempt  this  by  any  violent  measures,  but  they  could  poison  tin* 
minds  of  the  natives  against  him,  could  misrepresent  him,  could 
tamper  with  his  Banian  slave  followers,  could  prevent  his 
getting  a  canoe,  could  surround  him  with  such  scenes  of  cruelty 
as  would  sicken  his  soul.  All  of  these  things  thev  could  do 
all  of  them  they  did.  It  is  not  ungenerous  to  say  that  they  diii 
them  all  deliberately,  designedly,  because  they  did  not  want  the 
restraint  of  an  Englishman's  presence  in  their  horrid  bu.-ines.-. 
They  were  generous  with  their  gifts,  Ixxttusc  thev  wanted  to  be 
thought  kind.  They  knew  what  to  give  and  what  to  withhold  ; 
they  would  give  something  to  make  a  good  impression,  thev 
would  be  unable  to  do  other  things,  and  see  to  it  undcrhandrdlv 
that  they  were  done  by  nobody,  that  they  might  be  rid  of  the 
man.  They  had  numbers  and  goods,  and  they  would  by  all 
means  possible  get  the  confidence  or  excite  the  fears  of  the  peo- 
ple, and  they  could  turn  either  the  confidence  or  the  fear  to  the 
same  account.  They  were  determined  that  Dr.  Livingstone 
should  get  no  canoe,  while  thev  promised  to  get  him  one  almost 
everv  dav,  managing  thus  ti>  hold  their  victim  in  agoni/in^ 
alternations  of  hope  and  despondenev  nearlv  li>ur  months.  We 
need  not  ask  now,  surely,  whv  Livingstone  was  so  dependent: 
we  know  that  he  had  only  three  t/u'n  on  whom  he  could  depend  ; 
he  had  some  means,  but  money  eoiild  do  nothing  unless  he  could 
procure  men.  Four  men  could  not  .-tart  alone  through  such  a 
country  under  such  circumstances.  lie  had  been  able  some- 
times to  iri-t  escorts  from  traders,  and  he  tru.-ted  that  he  would 
succeed.  He  could  have  gone  on  if  no  Arab-  had  been  in  tli" 
country.  Then,  with  the  support  of  Susi  and  ( 'huma,  he  could 
have  controlled  his  ten  Banian  men,  but  he  could  do  nothing 
with  them  while  Ilas-ani  was  at  hand  with  hi-  hordes,  offering 
them  protection  in  all  their  unfaithfulness,  and  offering  a  pre- 
mium for  their  desertion,  \\e\\ill  not  detain  the  reader  with 
the  j)roiniMs  and  disappointments  which  were  the  mutters  of 
reallv  mo-t  consequence  to  I>r.  Livingstone  every  day.  Inn  take 
advantage  of  the  information  which  was  tiva.-ured  for  u-  during 
these  months  by  the  traveller. 

It  was  not  the  smallest  of  the  deprivations,  we  may  remark, 


r«3'J  NVANtiWK    MAIIKKT. 

which  I  >r.  Living-tone  had  now  to  i -on  tend  \vith,  that  liis  pajHT 
ami  ink  were  Ixtih  exhausted.  Tin-  world  owe-  him  a  deht  of 
gratitildi1  tha'.  he  did  not  allow  thi>  to  hinder  him  in  tin-  record 
which  lit-  had  -o  coii-cicntiou.-Iv  made  of  what  he  -aw  and  did. 
An  i  ii_'ra\  in_f  faithfully  rvpreM'ntinj;  a  portion  of  hi-  journal 
written  under  the-e  di-ad\  antaL'es  will  eonvev  a  l>etter  idea  of 
die  -hi ft.-  hy  which  he  ma-tered  them  than  anv  word-  of  our-. 
An  old  new-paper,  made  into  the  -hape  of  a  copv  Kook, and  ink 
made  from  the  juice  of  -oiiic  native  herrie-,  were  hi.-  >uh-titutes 
Jor  mci-r  material-.  \\  ith  the-e  he  prc-erved  I'nr  tl-  the  -celies 
and  incid«  nt-  of  maiiv  months. 

I'r'il.alilv  the  nin»t  intere-tiiiLT  feature  of  the  village  of  \v- 
aiiLM\e  \\ a-  it>  market.  The  market  i>  a  ^ivat  in.-titution  in 
Man\  iiema.  At  Nvannwi'  th'-  market  wa-  held  everv  fourth 
d;i\ '.  1  lie  vendor-  of  the  varioii-;  eomnioditicM  were  rhictiv 
\\n:jic!i.  and  -urli  WOIIK  n  a-  did  lull  cre«lit  \»  the  market-\\ oinell 
of  tin-  \\orld.  1  he  u'l"1  at  ijiiinher-  a.— t'liililed  in-pire  all  \\ith 
confidence,  and  thev  -tand  firmlv  \>\  the  rule-  of  ju-tin-.  DIM 
a— eni!il\-  i-  the  principal  ph-a-urr  of  all  cla---;  all  !"\e  t" 
trade  in  the  market  ;  if  a  man  propo-e«.  \,>  \t\iv  a  chicken,  the 
owm  r  t< •!!-  him  "  <  'oine  to  the  mai  ket."  Then-  were  all  -ort-  of 
art  !<•!••-  to  \>< •  had  :  cloth.  |I  .\vl-.  fi-h,  earthen  \-e-d-.  ca— ava.  |»alm 
oil.  -alt.  pejijicr,  anvthin  '  t"  he  had  in  the  c..iintrv  \\a-  to  l»f 
had  there.  And  tin-  lui-ine-.,  \va-  i-arried  -in  \\ith  the  -jiri^htlv 
eiK-rjv  which  alwavs  ;ittends  a  crowd  and  cnm|>.-;  m-.n.  1  he 
\\oijn-M  -(Tilled  to  he  lullv  in  their  element  :  th-  \  Would  li:i'_'i_rle 
and  joke  \\iih  <<ju:il  readiii''--...  Manv  o('  them  \\ere  ..',|  and 
•  :!!'•  N\"ni,  oth«  r-  \"iin_r  and  Iwautiful  it  i-  -•  in  all  market-  ; 
fie-  i>!d  \\-re  t  h'liijht  fill  and  an\ioii--|ook  in_r,  tin-  \"'in.:  \\cre 
thoii_ditl'--  ai.d  -|>ortive— it  i-  -o  \\ith  "Id  and  \"'in_;  pi.iple 
i-l-eu  h'-re  ;  the  n!d  \\"inen  earn-d  a  \\  ••!_'!  it  "I  niMii' •!•;•-.  the 
\  •  .iin^  u  o-iieji  \ve|-e  carricil  \>\  hope  toward  a  Pi'  UP-  i  •!  pi-,  .mi-e — 
;t  i-  al-.\a\-  -o  with  :e_'e  and  \-oiith.  I'.nt  i-M  and  voiin^  under- 

M I    li.-if    l.ii-ine--..       A    l--\v   in<  n    ai'emiir-1'd   u  ilh   (In -<•  liti-y 

rij.ifh.  r-  .md  \\  i  \  •-,-••!  1  in_'  t  h--ir  iron  wan-,  j^ra-*  dull  i  and  ]>\^-. 
\\  !,•  n  the  mark'  t  i-  t  iii'!\  op-  md  it  i-  :i  liii~\  -cem-,  and  the 
-I- -•  riplion  u  hi,  h  I);-.  |.i\  ;ii'.:-tone  -i\  ,-  o|'  it  i-r..o-""d  t"  I"1 
i-  .-r  :  "  \ . ,  •  i  \  on.-  i-  tlpre  in  il<  ad  earne-t  ;  little  time  i-  lo~t  m 
fri-ipl'r.  „'!•••.  tin_'-.  \"end«.r-  of  li-h  run  ahoiit  \\iih  little  pot- 


MAHKKT   srKXKS.  533 


shcnl^  full  of  snails  or  small  fislieH,  or  young  i-lnrinx  ni 
smoke-dried,  and  spitted  on  twigs  —  or  other  reli-he-,  to  exchange 
for  cassava  roots,  dried  alter  being  steeped  al>ont  time  ilavs  in 
water;  potatoes,  vegetables,  or  grain,  bananas,  Hour,  palm  oil, 
fowls,  salt,  pepper,  all  are  bartered  hack  and  forth  in  the  same 
manner.  Iv.ich  individually  is  intensely  anxious  to  trade;  tho-e 
who  have  other  articles  are  [uirtieularlv  eager  to  liarter  them  for 
relishes,  and  are  positive  in  their  assertions  of  the  goodness  or 
badness  of  each  article  as  market  people  seem  to  be  in  conscience 
bound  to  do  everywhere.  The  sweat  mav  he  seen  standing  in 
great  heads  on  their  faces.  (  'ocks,  hanging  with  their  heads 
down  across  the  shoulders,  contribute  their  bravest  crowing,  and 
pigs  s<|iieal  their  loudest.  Iron  knobs,  drawn  out  at  each  end 
to  show  the  goodness  of  the  metal,  are  exehanged  for  cloth  of 
the  Muabe  j)alm.  They  have  a  large  funnel  of  basket-work 
below  the  vessel  holding  the  wares,  and  slip  the  goods  down  if 
thev  are  not  to  be  seen.  They  deal  fairly,  and  when  differences 
arose  they  were  easily  settled  by  the  men  interfering  or  pointing 
to  me:  they  appeal  to  each  other,  and  have  a  strong  sense  of 
natural  justice.  With  so  much  food  changing  hands  amount 
the  three  thousand  attendant.-  much  benefit  is  derived;  some 
come  from  twenty  to  twenty-live  miles.  The  men  flaunt  about 
in  gnndv-eolored  lambas  of  many  folded  kilt-  —  the  women 
work  hardest  —  the  potters  slap  and  ring  their  earthenware  all 
around,  to  show  that  there  is  not  a  .-ingle  flaw  in  them.  I 
bought  two  linelv  shaped  er.rthen  bottle-  oi  porous  earthenware, 
to  hold  a  uallou  each,  for  one  string  of  brad-  ;  the  women  carrv 
hiiue  load-  of  them  in  their  funnels  above  the  ha-kets,  .-trapped 
to  the  >!n>ulders  and  forehead,  and  their  hand-  are  full  be-ide-  ; 
the  roundness  of  the  vessels  is  wonderful,  -eeing  no  machine  i.- 
n-ed  :  no  .-laves  could  be  induced  to  carrv  hall'  a-  much  a.-  thev 
do  willingly.  It  is  a  scene  of  the  line.-t  natural  acting  imagin- 
able. The  eagerness  with  which  all  sorts  of  assertions  are  made 
—  tin1  ea^er  earne-tne.-.-  with  which  appan-ntly  all  creation, 
above,  around,  and  beneath,  i-  called  on  to  atte-t  the  truth  of 
what  thev  allege  —  and  then  the  inteii.-e  -urpri-e  and  withering 
<corn  cast  on  those  who  d'-pi-e  their  ^oods  :  but  thev  -how  no 
co:icern  whi'ii  the  buyers  turn  up  their  n<>-,-  at  them.  Little 
^irls  run  about  selling  cups  of  water  lor  a  few  small  li-hes  tu 


534  "  TKN    HTM  AX    JAWHOXES." 

tlu*  lialf-t'xhati.steil  wordy  iximlwtants.  To  mo  it  was  an  .iinu<u 
in^  Hvnr.  I  i-ould  not  nnder>tnnd  tin-  words  that  flowed  otf 
their  \z\\\t  t"ii^in~,  l>ut  tin-  i^-slnres  were  too  expiv— ive  to  \u\t\ 
interpretation.  '  (  >ne  man,  a  .-tranter  in  the  market,  wa« 
n«>tievd,  who  hail  ten  human  jawbones  huni;  l>v  a  -triii-^  over 
iii-  shoulder,  an<i  In-  >eemed  almost  lx»a>tl'nl  of  having  killed 
an<]  eaten  the  original  owners  of  them,  and  exhibited  with  hi-* 
knife  hi-  method  of  disserting  nu-n  with  a  painful  coolness,  and 
fiiiy  lau^liMl  with  the-  rest  wlu-n  Dr.  Living-tone  cxprt-SMtl  hi- 
di>ju-t. 

SiniftiiiK's  parties  Ixrlun^in^  to  Dii::nml>e's  horde  trinl  to  deal 
in  the  market  in  a  lordlv  wav,  a^  ini'erior  men  are  wnnt  to  do 
\\hei»  thev  imagine  them-elves  >urroiindnl  l>v  \\eaker  <ine>. 
I'»:it  there  can  hardlv  lie  found  a  daxs  of  people  on  earth  who 
are  readier  i<  <  a--ert  their  rights  a^ain.-t  iloininifrin*;  assumptions 
than  tho-e  verv  modot  individuals  who  rejoice  in  IM-III^  kiunvu 
a-  market  women,  \\hcn  tho-r  impertinent  fellows  ramr  alMtnt 
with  their"!  \\ill  huv  that,"  and  "  l'he-e  are  mine,  nciliodv 
mii-t  toii.-li  that  Inn  me,"  and  the  like,  the  women  ipiieklv 
taiiL'hi  tliem  tliat  they  enuld  niono|Htli/e  nothiii'j,  l>ut  deal  tiiirlv 

like  other   people. 

The  doetor  had  amjile  opportunity  to  oli-erve  the  p.-<iple  ,if 
the  di-triet,  and  the  more  he  ^a\\  of  them  the  more  he  wa-  per- 
pl'-\e<l  l>v  the  -trance  eontradiet ion-  their  ehanu'ters  re\-.-ale<l. 
('annihal-  thcv  ei-rtainlv  were,  thinking  no  more  «\'  \\\<-  lifi- of 
a  man  than  the  !>]o— -otn  of  a  fl' iwer  ;  a.-  read v  to  kill  a  man  a-  to 
kill  a  pi^  ;  \  et  hoiie-t ,  liiie-lo. -kin^-,  .-omet ime-  reall\  l>eant ifnl  ! 

Kvt-rv  dav  their  eoiintrv  \\  a-   l>e<-ominur   more   and    more   the 

-•  -i-I|.-    ..f    eo||l'll-iol|    aild    Moo.l~hed.          X'lllau'e-    \\e|-e    l.ei||L'    Imriled 

:'.nd  penp'e  ma--:i'-red  ei.nl  iniiall\\  Thev  -ei'ined  to  di-t  niL'Ui-h 
him  Ii'om  the  Aral)-  and  their  iinderlm j--,  l.iit  In-  kne\v  thai 
th-  r  i  'piil'l  l>e  no  relianei-  plaenl  m  them,  (or  (  ,  .ntra«f  in_'  with 
tli-ii-  h  "iii  -ty  in  d'-aliir/  wa-  ali-olnte  nntriit  hl'nhi'  --  in  otlnr 
ma"-  i'-.  I  he\  had  no  eon-'-ien.-.-  a_ram-t  (i'a!ui!i_r  anv  -ort  "t 

lie    !,s-  -,'.  hi.-h  th--\-  mijht  u'-'t  'li--  plea-nn-  of  -pilling  !•! 1. 

A-  !:m-  p-i--i-l,  the  ho|i,--  o(  ^ettmu'  a  eaiio.-  or  m-  n  were  no 
ii'-.ir-  r  r>  a!  i/,i'  i"M.  '1  he  trader-  t  ln-m-d  \ . •-,  -.-i/in^  on  hi-  id<  a, 
h.id  fallen  .in  t h<-  plan  ")  proen-din^  in  c;inoc-.  lieport.-  <-itne 
of  imric  ii--  i,naiitit  ;••-  "f  ivorv  in  j»o--e--i..n  of  the  lialii'-a, 


"A    THICK    OF   TIIK   TRADE.  .r,3.5 

living  farther  down  the  river.  Katomba's  jwople  lia<l  IK-CM 
there  and  were  returning  with  immense  <piatititi<  -s  They  re- 
ported that  the  whole  country  was  full  of  it  ;  the  door-|K>slH 
and  house  pillars  were  made  of  it.  Thev  had  found  the  people 
peaceable,  and  had  gone  in  and  conic  away  without  a  .-ingle  di.s- 
turliance.  Thev  had  traded  copper  rings  for  the  ivorv,  two 
rin^s  Ibr  a  tu>k,  which  thcv  had  found  the  nio*t  acceptable 
currenev  there  as  among  the  Manyuema.  This  counfrv  was 
bordering  on  the  several  great  rivers  which  Mowed  into  the 
Lualaba  from  the  west.  Hearing  these1  wonderful  report.-  onlv 
whetted  the  eagerness  of  Hassani  and  Abed.  Thev  picked  up 
all  the  < -a noes  to  be  had  lor  themselves;  partlv  bv  becoming 
I>/<t  )il-i-<-l<i/i»nx  with  the  natives,  by  the  blood-letting  cerenionv  ; 
partly  by  helping  them  to  kill  each  other,  partly  by  intimidat- 
ing them,  and  partlv  bv  turning  their  prejudice  against  the 
white  man,  who  was  represented  as  wanting  no  ivorv  or  slaves, 
but  only  canoes  that  he  might  kill  Manyuema.  Livingstone 
was  obliged  to  stand  quietly  and  see  canoe  after  canoe  go  off 
down  the  noble  river  which  he  was  so  anxious  to  explore. 
Once  he  wa>  confident  that  his  desire  was  realized;  lie  felt  as  if 
lie  had  the  precious  canoe.  Abed  seemed  to  beeoiue  po-.-e-sed 
of  a  more1  generous  spirit,  and  although  he  was  anxious  to  be 
oil'  to  the  ivorv  land  would  not  go  until  he  thought  he  had 
sealed  a  bargain  for  a  canoe  for  the  doctor.  Bu?  he  was  a  little 
too  eager,  and  a  Manyuema  man,  who  it  turned  out  had  an  old 
grudge  against  another  head  man  which  he  wanted  to  avenge, 
came  over  the  river  and  said  that  he  had  one  hollowed  out,  and 
he  wanted  <j;oats  and  beads  to  hire  people  to  drag  it  down  to 
the  water.  Abed  advanced  live  goat s.  a  thousand  cowrie- ,  and 
manv  beads.  Hut  it  turned  out  that  the  man  had  no  canoe,  but 
was  only  seeking  to  draw  the  trader.-  into  a  dillieultv  with  his 
cnemv  and  .-o  n-et  his  revenue,  for  lie  knew  that  a  dillieultv  oc- 
curring, the  man's  village  would  be  burned  and  manv  of'  hj- 
people  killed  bv  the  Arabs.  His  plan  t!>r  brinsring  about  thi- 
was  to  have  Abed  and  the  doctor  send  men  to  see  the  canoe, 
who  would  of  course  carrv  their  iruns.  The  canoe  bciiij  the 
property  of  the  other,  while  thev  would  know  that  Ab.-d  had 
paid  for  it.  he  was  shrewd  enough  to  see  that  there  would  be 
Very  probably  a  light  before  the  parties  separated,  and  however 


",3<)  IVOKY    HfNTINC. 

it  turned  out  he  would  have  hi*  revenue.  This  sort  i>f  thing 
was  one  <>f  the  Lrrave-t  di  Him  I  tit's  which  wa-  to  l<e  contended 
with  in  Manviiema.  AU-d  w:i>  gone  when  this  trick  wa-  limn'! 
out,  and  Living-tone  (leeline<l  to  IM-  led  into  the  trap. 

While  the  doctor  was  vet  waiting,  some  of  Alied's  people 
returned  laden  with  :u-ks  which  they  had  pun-ha-cd.  The 
traders,  although  they  wen-  unwilling  to  eonfe-.-  it,  \\eiv  coming 
to  ,-ee  that  the  cotm-el  of  Livingstone  wa.-  wi-er  than  they  had 
thought.  Tln-y  had  -aerilieed  all  the  pn>-pect.-  which  wrre  jire, 
H-nt«-«l  I iv  the  Mai iv ii'  ma  eonntrv  l»v  their  < If.- pi-rat <•  poh«-v  ;  tin  \ 
had  <-lci--d  di-tri«-t  att<-r  di-triet  a^ain-t  themselves,  and  tln-v 
had  he^iin  to  -<•(•  that  even  Atriean  savages  emiM  !>e  inlluvneetl 
n  lore  i  •a.-ilv  l>v  jn-t  ice  and  hit  man  it  v  than  \>\'  plunder  and  murder. 
How  li!e--rd  a  tiling  tor  Africa  it  would  have  lieen  if  the  le.— on 
had  heeti  lejiriHnl  ni(»re  thoroughly  and  p'jier.illv  !  How  hles>evl 
a  tiling,  if  thev  had  Ix-en  PHH!  enough  to  r-aerili«v  their  pa>-i<ms, 
to  their  interest!  The  ri'turnin^  partie^  had  nuieh  to  ~ay  alnmt 
a  eonntrv  called  A  »*«,  which  lav  at  the  mnfliietiee  of  the 
L'.!n:inie  ^\!lic!|  joins  the  Lualaha,  prohalilv  a  hundred  miles 
l»elo\v  Nvan^we.  '1  he  I>:d\n-s  are  Manvnema,  l>ut  were  di-tin- 
•jni-heil  li\--«pine  [MH-iiliarities  Iroin  their  mort1  southern  eotmtrv- 
n>en.  It  \\a.-  n-ported  that  the  I>aku-s  were  civil  to -tranter-, 
!>ut  that  th"V  had  r< -fn-ed  a  pa--a'_r»'  into  the  eonntrv.  In  ord<  r 
to  iiupre--  theiM  \\ith  their  power,  the  effet't  of  a  mn-ket  ^liot  on 
a  fjo:it  \va-  -Mown  them.  I  li^v  looked  mi  with  aina/etneni, 
thought  it  -npernatnral,  lo.,k«-il  up  at  the  el.ui.l~,  and  oil',  red  to 
l/riirj  ivorv  to  huv  the  charm  that  eon  Id  draw  IL'ht  niii'j  do\\  :i. 
\\'!i.  n  ir  \\a-  aft'-r'^.ard-  att.-!iip!.«l  to  t\,r>;-  a  path,  the\-  darted 
a-ide  on  -•  •  ::r_r  the  \\  aiivamwe/i's  follower-  put  t  iii_'  I  In-  arrow-. 

in'o    the    I  >.>-\  -•  r,n_r-,  hut    -f 1  in  mute   ariia/'-iii''!it    lonkiiej:   at 

the  Lr'!ii-,  •••.  h.eh  !;io-.\,.l  th'-in  do -AM  in  ]ar_rc  niinil>'-r-.  Th-  \ 
{fioii_'!it  tli  ii  iiiu-k-  •*-  \\.-r«-  tip-  in-i/nia  of  «-!ii.  ham-hip.  Th'-ir 
;o  \\  it  h  a  !"iej-  -trai^ht  -; all'  of  rattan,  having  a  'plan!  it  v 
iii-di'iiie  -nieared  on  each  end,  and  n  >  u.'apon-  iu 
d-.  I  IP -v  imagined  that  the  -MIII-  \\--re  can  !•  d  a-< 
•;  t!ie  -anie  kind;  ~»tn<-,  \>  .-finj-,  ca!!--d  th'-!ii  1-ij; 

i.-io  ]'.{••-,   and    -•  •  -im  d    to    have    no    liar    on    .-.  .  in^    a    J.MIII 

-!!.  d  a!   th-  :n. 

!i.y  n-.-d    !nr/'     and    vry    lon^j    -pear-  very  e\j»ertly    in    the 


A    THRIVING    DUHINKSS.  .'37 

long  grass  and  forest  of  their  country,  and  were  terrible  fellows 
among  themselves,  and  when  they  become  acquainted  with  fire- 
anns  will  he  terrible  to  the  strangers  who  now  murder  them. 
The  Bakuss  cultivate  more  than  the  southern  Manyuenm,  espe- 
cially pennisctum  and  dura,  or  holctut  Koryhuin ;  common  coffee 
is  abundant  in  their  district,  and  they  use  it  highly  scented  with 
vanilla,  which  must  be  fertilized  by  insects.  This  beverage  is 
usually  handed  round  in  cups  after  meals.  Among  their  other 
luxuries,  pineapples  were  quite  abundant.  Their  country  was 
much  more  open  than  the  more  southern  districts,  and  was  found 
literally  swarming  with  people.  There,  too,  the  market  was  the 
great  institution.  In  some  things  they  might  be  an  example  to 
their  neighbors;  in  their  personal  cleanliness,  for  instance,  which 
is  made  obligatory  by  a  law  requiring  them  to  bathe  regularly 
twice  everyday  ;  and  there  is  another  custom  by  which  all  illicit 
intercourse  is  severely  punished.  The  offender  in  this  must  see 
his  whole  family  sold  into  slavery.  The  women,  who  form  there, 
as  everywhere,  an  indispensable  element  of  social  life,  are  dis- 
tinguished by  rather  small  compressed  heads,  but  their  pleasant 
countenances  and  their  bright  wide-awake  eyes  are  evidences 
enough  of  their  intelligence. 

O  ~ 

But,  more  than  all  to  the  Arabs  and  their  avaricious  hordes, 
the  land  was  full  of  people  and  ivory,  and  let  the  people  be 
friendly  or  unfriendly,  good  or  bad,  beautiful  or  ugly,  it  was  all 
one  to  them:  there  was  a  chance  for  slaves  and  iv<>ry  ;  slaves  and 
ivorv  meant  a  thriving  business.  As  for  Dr.  Livingstone,  lie 
saw  no  hope  of  getting  on;  he  was  clearly  considered  in  the  way 
by  the  traders,  and  his  ten  Banian  men  were  certainly  not  to  be 
trusted.  Abed  overheard  them  one  day  plotting  I'm-  his  destruc- 
tion. The  horrible  plan  which  they  arranged  was,  if  compelled 
to  go  on,  to  watch  their  chance,  and  the  first  difficulty  which 
arose  with  the  Manyucma  thev  would  fire  ofT  their  gun.-  and  ruu 
away,  and  as  the  doctor  was  weak  and  could  not  run  as  t'a.-t  as 
thev  he  would  l>e  left  to  perish.  The  tone-  in  \vhieh  this  finuli-h 
plot  came  to  the  ears  of  Abed  convinced  him  that  for  Dr.  Living- 
stone to  go  with  them  would  IK>  certain  death  at  the  hands  of 
the  cannibals.  Notwithstanding  the  tact  that  Abed  in  common 
with  Ilassani  and  others  had  been  by  their  policy  a  great  hin- 
drance to  him,  Dr.  Livingstone  had  no  doubt  that  in  a  matter 
32 


B5S  THK  "  RVA"  HOUSKS. 

of  this  sort   he  was  a  sincere  friciul,  and   could   not   doubt   hi- 
-tatement  or  the  wisdom  of  his  caution. 

Thn-  worried  beyond  rnea-ure  by  tins*-  slaves,  and  haftled 
utterly  in  his  work,  the  doctor,  sick  at  heart  and  in  body,  had 
only  OIK-  ho|H'  left.  IhigumU',  who  had  not  yet  arrived,  was  e.\- 
[M-t'tcd  dailv  ;  he  wa-  bringing  his  whole  family,  and  propo-ed 
fixing  hi-  head-,  j  uartcrs  in  the  conntrv  and  establishing  a  mart 
and  line-  of  carriers,  between  his  district  and  I  "jiji.  The  single 
hojc-  wa-  that  tin-  man,  who  was  highe-t  in  authority  among 
tin-  traders  of  the  section,  might  a.— i-t  him. 

Heat  length  arrived,  and  I>r.  Livingstone  offered  him  $'2'K)d 
lor  ten  nii-n  to  replace  the  Banian  .-lave-,  and  adde«l  t<i  this  oiler 
[in-  proposition  to  _t;ive  him  all  the  goods  he  had  at  I  'jiji  !»«•- 
-;dc~.  I)ti£uinl>e  >aid  that  he  would  consult  his  asxK'iates  and 
(i'cidi- what  could  iM-dmic.  He>id<s  going  down  to  lyomame  the 
d'H-[..r  wa-  vci'v  anxiou-  to  explore  Una,  the  Lrivut  di-triet  ad- 
joining Manvneina  on  the  other  >ide  of  the  Lnalaba.  Tlii^ 
great  di-triet  wa>  distingni>hed  particnlarK  l>v  a  wonderful 
.-v-tein  ot'  umlerground  dwellings,  nseinbling  ininiense  cave-, 
which  had  exi-tiil  from  remote  ;\^-<.  Nothing  in  all  Africa 
.-nrpa.-- e-  in  magnitude  and  nmrvflloti  .  .-iniet  nre  the-e  wonderful 
dwelling-.  Manv  of  them  were  reported  to  be  -n  large  that  en- 
"tire  cr.!;---  could  take  refuge  in  them.  The  people  all  .-poke  of 
them  a-  having  been  built  bv  ( Jod  and  not  bv  man.  The.-e  va.-t 
-nliterraiiean  .-trnetnres  \\ere  -aid  to  be  entered  generallv  bv 
-mall  unpretending  opening-,  bm  t«>  -pri-ad  out  smldenlv  into 
ennrmoM-  hall-  and  eorritlors,  woiidcrfullv  arnmged  and  manv 
mil---  in  extent;  -<>nie  were  -aid  to  po«x--s  diuVrent  entrance.-, 
(•  irt  \~  or  lift  v  and  -omet  une.-  e\ en  a  greater  number  of  mile-  apart. 
The  dueller-  in  the-e  ca\ern-  were  a  \\arlike  race,  but,  iike  all 
the  inn. -i-  trib.--  of  Afri'-i,  provideil  onK  \\ith  their  bows  and 
fp»-:ii--,  \\  i -re  ea-v  \  ict  im-  of  t  ho-e  I ili KM lv  hordo  which  came  on 
the!. i  arni'-d  \\  \'\i  'imm.  \  \\--\~  \\erca  bright ,  intelligent  jteople, 
and  the  -lave-  had  -ought  man\  pretext-  \\,\-  .piarrel-  with  them 
that  tii'-v  might  h.i\e  excn-e  |i>r  making  \\ar,  which  aluay- 
i,i' an-  \\:th  th'-  Arab-  making  :t-  manv  -lave-  a-  po-.-iblc. 

1  >i .  I .! \  ing-tone  had  -'  <  u  man\  ot  tin  nntortnnate  vii'tiiH"  of 
t!i'-<  <  i  u-  1  in\:i'i"ii-  in  the  gnat  -!a\e-gang-  at  ilitlerent  tune.- 
•luring  lil-  later  tr.iv  1-,  and  among  all  tho-e  who-e  wrongs  hail 


B  HOK  KN- 1 1 K  A  RTKDN  ESS.  589 

called  forth  his  sympathies  HOIK:  had  awakened  a  <Icej>er  interest. 
Thev  uro  a  bold,  free  and  freedom-loving  nice,  rude  and  wild, 
hut  lovers  of  their  homes,  and  of  natures  keenly  sensitive  to  the 
degradation  of  the  galling  yoke  of  bondage.  Among  them  he 
had  seen  first  the  disease,  strangest  and  saddest  of  all,  which 
affected  him  more  deeply  than  any  of  the  various  forms  of  suffer- 
ing which  he  had  seen  in  all  his  wanderings.  This  disease  was 
broken-hearted  ness.  He  saw  it  first  after  the  brother  of  Svdc 
bin  Ilabib  was  killed  in  Kua,  and  Syde  vowing  vengeance  had 
entered  the  country  waging  dreadful  war.  A  large  number  of 
captives  were  taken  and  brought  away  in  chains;  many  of  the 
poor  creatures  died  in  a  few  days  after  passing  the  boundary  of 
their  own  country.  They  exhibited  no  signs  of  illness,  but  only 
deep  sadness,  and  would  place  their  hands  over  their  hearts, 
saying,  "All  the  pain  is  here,"  and  sink  down  by  the  way  and 
expire.  The  children  would  for  a  time  keep  up  with  wonderful 
endurance,  but  when  it  happened  that  the  sound  of  dancing  and 
the  merry  tinkle  of  the  small  drums  fell  on  their  ears  in  pa—ing 
the  villages,  memories  of  home  would  rush  on  them,  and  then 
they  would  cry  and  sob  until  the  "  broken-heart ''  came  and  they 
too  sank  rapidly.  The  heart  of  the  man  so  long  accustomed  to 
enter  into  the  sorrows  of  the  degraded,  and  to  search  for  every 
noble  quality  which  they  might  possess,  could  not  but  feel  an 
uncommon  interest  in  the  Ba  Una;  and  the  explorer  of  the 
wonderful  continent,  to  whom  the  world  was  looking  for  the 
fullest  information  about  all  of  its  mysteries,  was  naturally 
anxious  to  see  for  himself  those  wonderful  abodes,  which  seemed 
to  tell  of  an  age  of  power  surpassing  all  in  the  records  of  tin- 
world,  and  of  an  ancient  race  who  must  have;  rivalled  the  fabled 
giants  in  greatness. 

But  nothing  came  of  Dugumbe's  conference  with  his  friends, 
and  the  man  who  had  braved  so  much  and  staked  all  he  j»osse>seil 
on  this  noble  effort  was  thoroughly  foiled.  And  it  needed  only 
the  horrible  transactions  about  to  bur-t  on  him  to  drive  him 
back  to  Vjiji,  destitute,  disappointed  and  sick. 

A  man  named  Manilla,  one  of  the  slaves  employed  in  collect- 
ing ivory  for  the  Arabs,  had  been  carrying  things  with  rather 
a  high  hand  of  late.  Among  other  tilings,  he  had  formed  a  .-ort 
of  alliance  wr/h  a  Kimburu,  the  chief  of  the  neighborhood,  bv 


WO  A    PKTl'RK    I>KFACED. 

"mixing  blood"  with  him,  and  Kimbuni  had  given  him  tlinv 
slaves,  anil  he  in  turn  had  sacked  ten  villages  of  their  enemies 
in  token  of  friendship.  This  action  of  Manilla  and  Kimhuru 
hud  cxcit^l  the  jealousy  of  the  Dugumbc's  men,  and  they  com- 
menced a  wholesale  destruction  of  Kimburu's  villages  and 
slaughter  of  hi-,  people,  under  pretence  of  punishing  Manilla, 
hut  reallv  with  no  other  olject  than  to  impn^s  on  the  people  of 
the  whole  country  that  they  must  make  friends  with  them  alone, 
and  not  with  Manilla  or  any  one  cl-e. 

I>r.  Living-tone  first  heard  the  firing  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Jjiialaha  :  In  knew  well  what  it  meant,  and  with  a  sad  heart  he 
walked  toward  the  market,  where  he  wa-  accn.-tonicd  to  find  hi.- 
onlv  relief  from  the  oppressive  intercourse  with  the  |H>ople,  whose 
everv  w<>rd  and  act  gave  him  pain.  I»ut  he  little  dreamed  what 
a  -peetacle  w  i-  awaiting  him  ;  little  «lid  he  expect  to  set-  this 
place  which  had  In-en  hi-  refuge  for  month- the  scene  of  the  most 
dreadful  crime  he  had  ever  witness*^!.  He  had  often  he^uiled 
wearv  hours  watching  the  eager  activity  of  the-e  women;  had 
Ciijovcd  their  iiiniH-eiit  jokes,  had  Im'ii  inten-ely  ainu-ol  l»v  their 
varioii-  pertorinances,  and  di-ej»ly  interested  in  tln-ir  exhihitions 
of  varinu-  tempers,  and  had  found  room  for  much  serious  reflec- 
tion <>n  the  pha-es  of  character  among  the  untaught,  and  prohahlv 
devi-ed  manv  a  plan  lor  the  elevation  of  Africa,  with  the  great 
te\t-l»'Mik  of  African  character  and  African  need  Ivm^  open 
l»e('ure  him.  The  place  had  hcen  put  amoii^  the  ph-asnntest 
.scene^  and  e\]M-rience-.  of  hi-  travel-,  and  shelvetl  in  memorv  for 
the  il!ii-f ration  of  the  hritrht  -ideof  African  life  which  he  lon^eil 
to  -ho'.\  'hi-  I'oimtrvmen  and  the  world.  He  did  ii»t  dream  that 
thi-  -eetie  wa-  -o  -< H ni  to  }«•  cnin-oni  d  with  the  |I]IKH]  ot  innoeent 
Ix-in^-  ;  »h'it  thi-  plea-ant  memory  wa-  t"  n-i-eive  the  l»laeke.-t 
in-'-ripiidn  p«»--ihle  lor  human  depravity  t<>  indite.  He  never 
p'-nned  a  -ailder  p-conl  than  \\  e  fmd  und<  r  thi-  metnonilile  d:ite. 

He  T.  !!-  11-  that  it  wa-  a  h"t,  -ultrv  dav.  and  \\hen  he  \\ent 
intu  the  market  he  -aw  Adie  a:id  Manilla,  and  three  i.f  the  men 
wh<.  had  lately  e*itne  with  I  >M_''i  ml  .e.  He  wa-  -iirpri-ed  to  -ee 
tlr--e  ? !ir>  ••  v.  ith  their  LTUIH,  and  felt  inelitntl  toivpp.ve  th-m, 
H-  rini-  .,('  hi-  men  ,11,1,  )',,(•  Krin-jiirj1  \\eap-ui-  info  th--  -laii'jhter- 
rtnrl.'t,  l.'i'  attrilintin^  it  to  their  ignorance,  and  it  Iw-iipj  verv 
h'.t,  li,  -.'I-  \\alkiir_'  auav  to  •/. »  out  of  the  market,  u  hen  he  -au 


Ilnl:i:il:l.i:   HLAUUIITKIl.  >|J 

one  of  the  fellows  haggling  about  a  fowl,  and  sei/ing  hold  of  it. 
lie  fore  he  had  trot  thirty  yards  out,  the  discharge  of  two  gun- 
in  the  middle  of  the  crowd  told  that  slaughter  had  begun  : 
crowds  dashed  oil'  from  the  platv,  and  threw  down  their  wares 
in  confusion,  and  ran.  At  the.  same  time  that  the  three  oi>ciied 
lire  on  the  ma.-s  of  people  near  the  upj>er  end  of  the  market- 
place volleys  were  discharged  from  a  party  do  AMI  near  the  creek 
on  the  panic-stricken  women,  who  dashed  at  the  canoes.  These, 
some  liftv  or  more,  were  jammed  i.i  the  creek,  and  the  men  for- 
got their  paddles  in  the  terror  that  seized  all.  The  canoes,  were 
not  to  be  got  out,  for  the  creek  was  too  small  for  so  manv  ;  men 
and  women,  wounded  by  the  balls,  poured  into  them,  and  leaped 
and  scrambled  into  the  water,  shrieking.  A  long  line  of  heads 
in  the  river  showed  that  great  numbers  struck  out  for  an  island 
a  full  mile  off:  in  going  towards  it  thev  had  to  put  the  left 
shoulder  to  a  current  of  about  two  miles  an  hour  ;  if  they  had 
struck  away  diagonally  to  the  opposite  bank,  the  current  would 
have  aided  them,  and  though  nearly  three  miles  off,  some  would 
have  gained  laud  :  as  it  was,  the  heads  above  water  showed  the 
long  line  of  those  that  would  inevitably  peri.-h. 

Shot  after  shot  continued  to  be  filed  on  the  helpless  and  per- 
ishing. Some  of  the  long  line  of  heads  disappeared  quietly  ; 
whilst  other  poor  creatures  threw  their  arms  high,  as  it'  appeal- 
ing to  the  great  Father  above,  and  sank.  One  canoe  took  in  as 
manv  as  it  could  hold,  and  all  paddled  with  hands  and  arms  : 
three  canoes,  got  out  in  haste,  picked  up  sinking  friend.-,  till  al! 
went  down  together,  and  disappeared.  One  man  in  a  long 
canoe,  which  could  have  held  forty  or  fifty,  had  clearly  lo.-t  hi.* 
head  ;  he  had  been  out  in  the  stream  before  the  massacre  be^an, 
and  now  paddled  up  the  river  nowhere,  and  never  looked  to 
the  drowning.  Bv-aud-by  all  the  heads  disappeared  ;  >oine  had 
turned  down  stream  towards  the  bonk,  and  escaped.  I)ugumbe 
put  people  into  one  of  the  deserted  vessels  to  ,-ave  those  in  th«* 
water,  and  saved  twentv-one.  ( )ne  woman  refused  to  be  taken  on 
board,  thinking  that  .-he  was  to  be  made  a  slave;  .-he  preferred 
the  chance  of' lite  by  swimming,  to  the  lot  of  a. -lave.  The  Arab- 
themselves  estimated  the  loss  of  life  at  between  three  hundred 
and  thirty  and  four  hundred  souls.  The  shootiu^-partv  near 
the  canoes  were  so  reckless,  they  killed  two  o. 'their  own  people  ; 


6-42  THI:  I:\IM.A  NATION. 

aii'l  ;i  Wanvamwczi  fol lower,  who  pit  into  a  deserted  canoe  to 
plunder,  fell  into  tin-  water,  went  clown,  then  fame  up  again, 
ami  down  to  ri-e  no  nioiv. 

!>,-.  Living-tour'-  tir-t  impul.-e  was  to  pi-tol  the  mtmlerers, 
but  I)ii;Mimbe  prote-ted  against  his  getting  into  a  bicxxl-feuil, 
and  hf  wa-  thankful  ufterwartls  that  he  took  the  advice.  Two 
wretched  Mo.-|eni-  asserted  "that  the  firing  w:is  done  by  the 
jM-ojil.-  of  tlif  Kn^li-h  ;  "  the  doctor  ju-ktd  one  of  them  why  he 
lied  -o?  luit  li«'  could  utter  no  e.\cu-e  :  no  other  falsehood  came 
to  lii-  aid,  In-  could  oiilv  -tand  abashed,  and  .-o  telling  him  not 
to  tell  j»alj»al)lc  fal-chood-,  I  >r.  Living-tone  left  him  gaping. 

After  tin-  terrible  atlair  in  tin-  water,  the  party  of  Tagamoio, 
\\lio  wa-  tin-  chief  perjM-trator,  continued  to  lire  on  the  people 
tip-re  and  lire  their  village-;.  Loud  wail-  could  be  heard  on  the 
left  bank,  over  tho-<-  who  were  tin-re  .-lain,  ignorant  of  their 
rnanv  friend-  no\\-  in  the  depth.-  of  Lualaba.  No  one  will  ever 
know  the  i-xaet  lo-.~  on  thi-  bright  .-ultr\  .-timiner  mornin<;  ;  no 
wmider  it  'ja\'e  the  sorrowful  wit  in-.—  the  impre—  ion  nf  U-ing  in 
hell.  All  the  -lave-  in  the  i-imp  ru-hed  at  the  fu^itivi-;  on 
land,  and  plundered  them  :  women  were  for  hour-  eolltvting  and 
i-.irr\  iii'^  load-  of  what  had  U-en  thrown  down  in  terror. 

S.ine  e-'-ijMil  to  1  )r.  Living-tone  and  \\ere  proti-eti-d  : 
I  >u_rumbe  -ave<l  twenty-one,  and  of  hi-  own  aeeord  lil^niUnl 
them  ;  tin  v  were  brought  to  the  doetor,  and  remained  over  night 
ri'-ar  hi-  lion-.-.  <  )ne  woman  of  the  -ave«l  had  a  mu-ket-ball 
through  the  thi^h,  another  in  the  arm.  The  dot'tnr  -ent  men 
\\iili  In-  flaj  to  -ave  -oinc,  tor  without  a  flag  they  too  rni<.;ht 
havi-  Uen  vietim-.  for  Taganmio's  jM-ople  were  >lnwiting  right 
and  li-ft  like  fiend-.  Twelve  villages  \\ei-e  burning  the  n-'.xt 
morning.  'I  he  i|iie-tion  wa-  a-keil  of  I  )ii'_nimlM-  and  other*, 
41  V.w  \'»r  what  i-  all  thi-  mur-ler?"  All  bl.imed  Manilla  a* 
it-  eau-e,  and  in  one  -. n-e  he  wa-  the  r-;ill-e  ;  but  the  wi«h  tf 
luai.e  an  impre--ion  in  the  eoiinlrva-  to  the  im|»ortaiiee  ami 

J_T'  at  li«  --    of    the     HeW    eolner-    \\  a  -      the      |||o-t      |iote||t      lllo!|\e.          It 

u.i-  !•  rrilile  lo  i-oiiteinplate  the  murdering  of  -o  niai'\\  It  \\:n 
.  :i  -njh  I"  n. al. ••  a  man  -i«'k  at  In  art  \\  h<>  e.-nld  aeeompany 
lie  ].•  'ijile  tif  I  hitMimln'  and  Tajanioio  to  [/oiname  and  In-  In-e 
from  I,!-  Ki^l  ^ni!tin.--  '.' 

Jl    \\:LI    j't'oj •!    t.,    I  tii^'iml,,.    to    eat.-h    the   murderer-,  and 


AFTER   THE    MASSACRE.  ,'j.Jj 

flang  thorn  up  in  the  market-place,  a-s  a  protect  against  the 
bloody  deeds  before  the  Manyuema.  If,  as  he  and  others  de- 
clared, the  massacre  was  committed  by  Manilla's  people,  he 
would  have  consented  ;  but  it  was  done  by  Tagumoio's  people, 
and  others  of  this  party,  headed  by  Dugumbe.  This  slaughter 
was  peculiarly  at  rex-ions,  inasmuch  as  it  was  well  understood, 
that  bv  a  sacred  custom  women  coming  to  or  from  market  have 
never  been  known  to  be  molested:  even  when  two  districts  arc 
engaged  in  actual  hostilities,  "  the  women,"  say  they,  "pass 
among  us  to  market  unmolested,"  nor  has  one  ever  been  known 
to  be  plundered  by  the  men.  I>nt  these  Moslems  were  inferior 
to  the  Manyuema  in  sense  of  justice  and  right.  The  people 
under  Hassani  began  the  superwiekedness  of  capture  and  pillage 
of  all  indiscriminately.  Dugumbe  promised  to  send  over  men 
to  order  Tagamoio's  men  to  cease  firing  and  burning  villages  ; 
they  remained  over  among  the  ruins,  feasting  on  goats  and 
fowls  all  night,  and  next  day  (IGth)  continued  their  infamous 
work  till  twenty-seven  villages  were  destroyed. 

Livingstone,  by  his  personal  efforts,  restored  upwards  of 
thirty  of  the  rescued  to  their  friends:  Dugumbe  seemed  to  act 
in  good  faith,  and  kept  none  of  them  ;  it  was  his  own  free  will 
that  guided  him.  Women  were  delivered  to  their  husbands, 
and  about  thirty-three  canoes  left  in  the  creek  were  kept  for  the 
owners. 

While  the  shooting  was  still  going  on  on  the  other  side,  and 
many  captives  being  caught,  Tagamoio's  people  began  to  cross 
over  in  canoes,  beating  their  drums,  firing  their  guns,  and 
shouting,  as  if  to  say,  "See  the  conquering  heroes  come;  "  they 
are  answered  by  the  women  of  Dugumbe's  camp  lullilooing, 
and  friends  then  fire  off  their  guns  in  joy. 

This  horrible  massacre  was  more  than  he  could  endure.  He 
never  could  have  consented  to  go  a  mile  farther  with  the  mur- 
derers. He  had  mastered  his  own  feelings  for  years,  had  en- 
dured to  be  dependent  on  men  whose  presence  was  a  continual 
sorrow,  had  endured  witnessing  all  the  horrors  of  the  slave- 
trade  in  its  most  extravagant  proportions  and  its  must  abomin- 
able forms,  all  in  the  interest  of  science  and  humanit\  .  to 
endure  this  longer  was  to  him  worse  than  death,  worse  than 
failure,  worse  thau  all  other  ills  combined.  lie  could  not  go  on 


540  THK  IJUKSTION  SKTTLKD. 

without  them,  IxH-nu-e  he  would  In-  in  the  power  of  ton  men, 
unprincipled  even*  way,  who  liad  determined  on  his  death  if  he 
-hould  attempt  to  eomjH-1  them  to  go.  He  timid  not  take  only 
Su-i,  C'huma,  and  Gardner,  and  p>.  Thev  loved  him,  were  true 
to  him,  would  die  for  him,  but  thev  would  certainly  IK*  called 
uti  t«>  do  it,  and  it  would  lx-  all  that  thev  timid  do.  There  w;i* 
one  tiling  onlv  :  he  would  return  immediately  to  I'jiji  and  seek 
to  (it  himself  up  a^-ain  with  a  letter  eseort. 

When  Oiiiruinbe'H  partv  saw  that  he  was  determined  to  <^o  hack 
thev  ottered  many  things,  but  he  took  onlv  a  little  gunpowder. 
Thev  made  presents  of  beads,  but  he  insisted  on  returning  their 
value  in  eloth  ;  he  lelt  that  all  thev  had  was  the  price  of  blood. 
I)ii_:u!nbe  hini-eif  -eemed  verv  friendly  and  sent  head-  and  cow- 
rie- tor  purchasing  food  on  the  journev,  al-o  two  verv  {'me  lar^t? 
Manviiema  >  word-,  and  two  e<piallv  fine  -pear-. 

The  p'M>r  -ull'erer-.  wlm  had  survived  the  dreadful  uar  whieh 
had  !•••,•]]  m:i'l'-  on  tln-ni,  had  t'oimd  »ut  1'ni'v  that  the  white 
man  had  a  In-art  for  tin  m,  and  thronged  him,  !H-i:^iii'4  him  to 
-ta\  .  YI--,  tlio-,-  poor  degraded  people.  M>  hloodthir>tv  tln-m- 
-••!\'--,  i~innibaU,  surroumle^l  tin-  one  man  in  all  that  eompanv 
in  \vh'»m  dwelt  the  -pirit  of  Christ,  an<l  lx-_r^ed  him  to  .-tav 
with  tin-in  and  h»  !p  them  fiinl  new  Inun'-.  (  >h,  wln»>hall  dis- 
tru-t  tin-  p.,,\er  of  (  'hri>tian  kindne~<  t<>  cnntml  the  mo-t  im- 
liridleii  |i-i  —  i<  in-  '.'  \\iiat  powi-r  mi  earth  ean  take  hold  so 
-ti'"ii_r!\  "ii  tin-  in  art-  of  nn-n  a~  the  ifraee  of  (Jod?  iint  it 
ua~  imp-  i--ib!e  ;  (In-  d»-<'i~ion  \va-  taken  ;  he  would  '_ro  miiiiedi- 
a('  !\.  It  ua-  hard,  but  hi-  faith  aivrpted  it.  He  had  experi- 
.-nei-.l  f>o  fn-<|in-nt  1\-,  too  >/.  mli/i/  in  hi-  lit'-,  t  he  -joodne-*  o|'  (  ICM! 
!o  doiidt  that  e\-en  tlii-  -oiv-t  of  all  hi-  di-appoint  nn  nt-  \\  as 
,i|,|.r,  <1  ^rai'iou-lv.  ()n!v  \«-r\'  latelv  he  had  -i-«-ii  that  hand. 
Tli"'  \.;-\  thin_r  whi'-h  In-  had  ino~i  desired  for  two  month-, 
if  le-  had  obtaiin-d,  \\otild  have  IH-.-H  hi-  ile-Jrue(io|j  :  In-  ha«l 
uau'''l  a  i-ajiof  ;  onlv  reii-ntlv  n«-\\-  had  eoiin  that  a  partv  of 


.  i!n  -'i'|.|.  :ii\  t"  treniendoii-  fail-,  and  -evral  ol  tin-  fort-mo-t 
•  a;,  .  •-  \\.ii-  --A'-jit  a'\a\.  <••»!  had  k«-pl  Inin  baek  from  that 
[..  :  .  it  -At-  -.iilv  on-  o|'  inaii\  '  I  •  1  1  \  •  ra  i  n  ••  •  •>  wrought  a^am-t 
hi-  ..-.MI  bliinl  \\i!i.  II--  \\onld  tru-t  (i.>d.  Ami  \>.-  -hall  -oon 
»<  .  In,  A  ':.i'i"'i-!v  <i'»'l  wa-  'IrawniLT  him  b.ii-k  to  I  mi.  \\  e 


I'KOVIDKNCK    UNFOI.DKD.  r^-j 

know  that  all  civili/.cd  nations  had  shared  the  anxiety  to  know 
whether  he  was  living  or  dead  :  if  living,  where;  if  dead,  where 
he  died  and  how  V  We  know  that  he  had  with  him  the  records 
of  a  number  of  years,  covering  many  of  the  most  important 
discoveries  ever  made  in  Africa,  containing  many  things  of  in- 
finite consequence  in  connection  with  the  great  work  of  African 
evangelization,  and  of  immense  importance  in  tin;  interests  of 
science.  We  know  tlr  anxious,  loving  hearts  in  England,  l>e- 
hind  the  great  eager  public,  were  almost  breaking  with  desire  to 
know  whether  he  was  living  or  dead.  There  were  reasons  why 
he  should  not  die  in  the  forests  of  Manyuema.  A  noble, 
generous  man,  consecrated  to  the  interests  of  humanity,  may 
propose  greater  sacrifice  of  himself  than  (Jod  is  pleased  to  have 
him  make.  Manv  a  man  would  die  in  a  cause  whose  life  may 
be  of  more  consequence  than  the  cause  itself.  God  mav  judge 
in  such  matters;  he  may  save  a  man  at  the  sacrifice  of  that 
man's  dearest  enterprises,  and  do  graciously  in  it.  We  venture 
to  believe  that  this  was  done  in  bringing  Dr.  Livingstone  back 
to  I'jiji  just  when  he  was  brought  back.  His  desire  was  to 

«J  *f       »' 

explore  the  Lualaba,  hoping  to  find  it  connected  with  the  Nile. 
But  he  would  have  been  expo-ing  all  the  information  which 
he  had  gained  to  eternal  oblivion,  had  he  gone  on.  If  he  had 
died,  all  was  \o>t — all  his  toil  and  sacrifice,  all  the  interest  of  the 
world  in  his  expedition.  We  ought  to  thank  God  lor  bringing 
him  out  of  the  danger.  And  we  can  ,-ee  the  providence  in  it 
more  clearly  than  he  saw  it,  when  he  turned  his  back  on  the 
great  river.  A\  e  remember  that  just  about  the  time  that  Dr. 
Livingstone  arrived  at  Bambarre,  there  was  a  vomit;  man,  a 
total  stranger  to  him,  one  who  would  never  have  been  thought 
of  as  conceiving  such  an  enterprise,  purposing  in  his  heart  the 
relief  of  the  great  traveller.  Almost  the  very  day  that  he  entered 
this  wild  country  there  flashed  across  the  continent  from 
Paris  t'>  Madrid  the  few  simple  words  which  inaugurated  the 
expedition  which  God  meant  should  relieve  the  suspense  of  the 
nations,  save  the  information  which  was  of  such  va-t  import- 
ance to  the  cause  of  Christ  and  humanitv,  and  cheer  the  \\carv 
toiler  with  assurances  of  hi-  care  and  the  appreciation  of  man- 
kind. That  young  man  was  James  Gordon  Bennett,  Jr.  :  thosa 
simple  words  were,  "'  Come  to  Paris  on  important  business." 


548  GOD'S  EXPEDITION. 

The  man  who  received  them  was  Henry  M.  Stanley.  Tlie 
two  men  met  in  a  lull-room,  early  in  the  morning.  They  had 
never  met  before;  (i<xl  had  moved  the  heart  of  one,  nml  chosen 
the  other.  Many  "  Livingstone  search  expeditions"  luul  failed : 
G(xl  never  fail.-.  '1'he  men  may  neither  of  them  have  thought 
of  (iod  in  the  matter,  hut  (lo<l  thought  of  Livingstone.  We 
ilo  not  believe  that  the  men  whom  he  selected  for  the  purposes 
of  hi»  provident*.1  were  onlv  absorbed  bv  ends  of  iiersonal  gain 
or  emolument.  The  world  is  hardlv  generous  in  its  habit  of 
finding  lower  motives  for  the  aetors  in  the  nobler  dramasof  life, 
when  lofty  motives  might  as  ca-ilv  be  assigned  them.  Mr. 
Bennett  wa-  tin-  proprietor  of  a  great  journal.  The  proprietor 
of  a  great  journal  mav  be  impelled  to  the  verv  aets  whieh  con- 
duce to  it.s  greater  pro-peril v  bv  holier  impul.-es  than  can  ari.-e 
out  of  con-ideration-  of  wealth  or  poptilaritv.  We  love  to  IH-- 
lieve  that  Mr.  licnnctt  is  -ueh  a  man.  We  prefer  to  x-e  in  his 
pur|M»-e  to  .-« nd  a.-.-i-tamv  to  I  >r.  Livingstone  an  exhibition  of 
benevolence  whieh  dignifies  immanitv,  and  the  impulx-s  of  a 
soul  awake  to  influences;  higher  than  earth.  Mr.  Bennett  mav 
not  have  realized  it  fullv,  or  he  mav  have,  but  he  wa-  obeving 
(iod.  Mr.  Stanlev  wa.-  a  "  Kl v ing  Journalist  ;"  but  ( Jod  -aw 
in  hini  the  element.-  of  the  hen.  demanded  bv  -o  great  an  oeea- 
.-ion.  \\edo  not  Ix-Iieve  that  he  doe-  himst-lf  justice  in  in.-inuat- 
ing  that  he  went  to  Africa  onlv  as  he  would  have  gone  anvwhere 
el. -4-,  under  ordiTs  from  hi-  empiover.  Such  a  spirit  ot'  obe«li- 
enee  and  iaithfuliie.-vs  under  an  en^aLfernent  i-  < -ommendablc  ; 
but  we  prefer  to  reeo^ni/e  in  Mr.  Stanley  a  spirit  \\hidi  lifts 
him  above  the  common  level  ofnrdinarv  bu-inc.—  hoiie>tv.  lie 
manile-ted  an  cnthu-ia-m  in  tin-  undertaking  \\hieh  betravetl 
a  iji'i-.it in---  of  -oid  which  he  h;t-  preferred  to  ctmceal,  that  hi* 
eiuplo\er  miirht  have  the  more  honor.  lie  mav  not  have 
(--a\-d  1  lii-  <-\  p'-dit  i'  -II  at  the  .-u^^'e-t  ion-  ot  hi.-  own  IM  IHVI>- 

ll'liee,    he     pfobablv    COllld      Hot      liaVe     dolie     <0  ;      bill     \\llell      lie     -aW 

that  he  mi-lit  do  it,  hi-  heart  bounded  to  il,e  \\ork.  \\'e  be, 
li<  \>'  l.e  Ui  nt  loith  Ifoiu  I'an-  under  a  higher  eoiiiini--ioii  than 
that  ol  M  I  .  1  '..  •mi-  1 1 .  1  here  \va-  Heeded  HlOIleV,  alld  there  was 

lie<  ded  a  man  ;    I ',<>,{    \,u<-:\    u here  to  tind    Itoth.and    he  did    find 

t!i>  in,  |i|-t   \\lpii  he   -a.\  that  one  ol  In-  nuble-t  -ervant-  \\  a-  ap- 

io;i>  i.iii      an  <  \tn •mit\  .       1  ii«-re  i-  -omethm      verv  Hjlemn    and 


THK    RENDEZVOUS    AI'I'OINTKI).  5.j<) 

precious  alxnit  this  remarkable  expedition.  (Jod  knew  exactly 
when  the  extremity  would  be.  While  lie  allowed  Dr.  Living- 
stone to  go  on  wandering  about  in  Munyuenm,  lie  allowed  Mr. 
Stanley  to  travel  leisurely  toward  the  continent  of  Africa.  And 
when  the  hour  came,  the  hour  of  crushing  disappointment,  and 
I>r.  Livingstone  turned  toward  Ujiji,  -sick  at  heart,  utterly  per- 
plexed, the  deliverer,  an  utter  stranger,  of  another  nation  than 
he,  was  easy  marching-distance  of  the  divinely  appointed  rcn- 
de/.vous.  These  two  men — one  a  man  broken  down  in  health, 
bearing  on  his  shoulders  the  weight  of  many  veal's  of  n-vcre 
hardships,  and  on  his  heart  a  heavier  weight  of  anxieties  and 
sympathy  for  the  degraded,  the  other  a  young  man  borne  up 
by  the  elasticity  of  youth,  and  lifeful  in  the  freshness  of  hi-, 
noble  work — will  be  approaching  each  other,  with  what  adven- 
tures we  shall  see  hereafter. 


CHAPTER    XXX. 


THK  i>i:i.ivi: 

Mr.  Stunl«-y  at  Zan/iK-ir  —  S«-l<  •ctiiiir  F"ll"Wt-r>  -Africa,;  ('iirrri'rv  —  Curiosity 
I'li-ali-tic'l  —  "  S|M-^(  \  I-'aiilit';iN  "  -  HairaitU'Vo-  Tin-  Mriiiui—  Tin-  Fn.::'icr  »f 
liari.ari-iin—  Th.>  r>al<--h  The  W  amrima  The  Halt  c  a>u-  Aral.  Km  ;>ti>>n  ul 
l;.i^ain-y.»--'rh<-  ,le«uit  Mi»»ii'ii  Mr.  Siaiili  y  's  H..II-C  (in-at  Preparation*  - 
Mr.  Maul.  v  an.  I  other-  -Th.-  K..III.-  S.  1.  <•!,  .1  On  tin-  March  Kir-l  )Im>l  — 
Tiif  \V:ik«^r.-  The  \V.t.|.-c  K.-autil'iil  Seen.  TV  "liiivK.im  Kvi!  "  The 
\\.L-,  .-uhli.i  l!ai.'!-.in.-  >:i\.u-.-  'I  h.-  \\  a,"  .-.-..  I  >.  alh  an<l  Marria^t-  •  I'.-nal- 
t!.-,  ,,f  M'irl.T  aii.l  lh.;t  New*  ••!"  I»r.  l.ivin::-t<im.-  A  l>illkulty  Munlcr 


Mi:.  STAM.I:V  land'  <1  :it  Z;in/il>ar  <MI  tin-  ii:h  of  January, 
1*71,  iiii'li-r  (•"IIHI11--H  >n  truiu  M  r.  .lauio  (innlon  Jifiuu-tt  of 
.\«  sv  Y«>rk  —  -\\itli  full  lilx-riv,  unlitnititl  as  t»>  rx|MMiM-s,  \\ith 
ln-i  onli-rs  i-«>ii(lcii-c<l  int<^  the  shnrtfst  jx^-ihK'  M  ntcin-c  —  "  !•  mii 
LiviiiLr~ti>nc."  JJi^  dutv  \v:i>  vcrv  i-Icarlv  -ft  forth,  and  In-  w;u*< 
:inTf  to  ilo  it.  Ilr  hroii-^lit  with  him  to  Zan/ibar  \\iii.  La\v- 
ri'iii-i-  1'anjuliar,  \\hohad  attnu'ttxl  hi-  attention  ;t-  tir-t  mate 
•  •ii  tin-  vi--fl  iu  whii-h  he  had  -ailr<l  from  lioinliay  ;  and  Scliin, 
a  (  'liri.-tian  Aral)  l>»v  of  .Icru-alrin,  who  had  \n-i-\\  rnijiloviil 
:.-  in!'  rpi'cti  r.  Alxiiit.  tin-  little  niielni-.,  Mr.  Stanley  U'-jan 
;  rnni'  'diatelv  tunning  hi->  armv  for  the  arduous  enterprise 

!•':••;•'•     llMll.        '1  he    .-eleet  H  •!!   <>t     a    inree   of   at  I  el  n  lall  t  -    i-   |  U'ol  >al  ll  V 

the  ino-t  inijMirtaiit  part  of  thr  preparation  f.  >r  -m-h  an  e\pe<li- 
tii'Ji.  I'f  -id'-s  follower-,  h"Wi-viT,  it  \\a-  li'-i-'---arv  to  eollcet 
_TI  at  "jiianti'ies  of'  -iieh  Atriean  eiirn-nev  a-  \\  e  have  im\\-  U'- 
eoine  t'  ih-raiilv  tanuliar  \\  il  h. 

'Ill'-  pp  -•  -nee  ..I'  an  A  in-  rii-an  in  Xan/ili:ir,  fitting  mil  -o  .  ..-tly 

.in  '  \|"  dition,  li.  adiiiLT    f"r  ei-nlral    Afriea,  -  n  add  ijuite  a  -i  n-a- 

"!i,  a:  id  !••  •  aim-  tie-  en^p  .--in;_r  toj.ii-  of'  i  "ii\  er-al  i"ii  in  all  eir- 

'I  h'    int-  !•  -I   \\a-  all   the  more  inten-c.  heeaii-e    tlii-  -tran- 

r-.-ni'd    -•>  \'  rv   P  n   •  nt    aU-nt    hi-  pnrpo-e^  and  plan-.       lltj 

..!"\\'-l    no   oin-  to  Kn^w  more   than  \\a.-  written   on    his   card  — 


ON    AFRICAN    SOIL.  .V>1 

"  Henry  M.  Stanley,"  "  New  York  Herald."  People  high  and 
low  were  ga/.ing  in  perplexity  at  that  bit  of  eard-lxjard  when 
Mr.  Stanley  embarked  his  expedition  for  the  African  coa-t,  on 
the  5th  of  Februarv. 

A  white  man  name<l  Sliaw  had  Keen  employed  at  Zan/ibar, 
and  six  of  the  men  who  had  gained  considerable  reputation 
before,  as  *'  Speke's  Faithfuls;"  these  six  men  were  named  re- 
spectively, Bombay,  Kledi,  Ulimengo,  Baruti,  Ambari,  and 
Mabruki,  who  had  obtnine<l  the  distinction  "  bull-headed/' 
from  Captain  Burton.  \\'ith  his  escort  thus  ]>crfected,  two 
horses,  two  donkeys,  and  almost  a  boat-load  of  "  money,"  Mr. 
Stanley  entered  the  harbor  of  Bagamoyo,  early  in  February, 
1871. 

"  Bngntnovo  is  a  small  port  on  the  Mrima;  this  narrow  strip 
)f  land  has  attracted  the  ga/.e  of  the  civilized  world,  beeati.-e  of 
its  conspieuou.s  connection  with  the  slave-trade;  within  theeoast 
limits  of  this  small  district  are  to  be  found  the  ports  through 
which  by  far  the  greater  number  of  human  Ix'ings  bought  or 
captured  or  kidnapped  in  the  interior  are  shij)pexl  abroad. 
There  are  Mombasah,  Bueni,  Saadani,  Whinde,  Bagamovo, 
Kaole,  Kenduehi,  Dnr  Salaam,  Mbnamaji,and  Kilwa,  with  their 
records  of  violence,  just  as  they  have  been  seen  by  so  many 
thousands  of  helpless  victims  of  '  man's  inhumanity  to  man,' 
ira/ing  the  last  time  toward  their  homes." 

The  traveller,  who  approaches  this  famous  coast  from  the 
sea,  is  constrained  to  ga/e  with  peculiar  interest  on  the  scene 
which  lies  before  him.  "On  one  side,"  writes  Mr.  Burton,  "  lies 
the  Indian  ocean,  illimitable  toward  the  east,  dimpled  with  its 
'anerithmon  gelasma,' and  broken  westward  bv  a  thin  line  of 
foam,  creaming  upon  the  whitest  and  finest  of  sand,  the  detritus 
of  coralline  and  madrepore.  It  dents  the  coast  deeplv.  forming 
bavs,  bayou-;,  lagoons,  and  backwaters,  where,  after  breaking 
their  force  upon  burs  and  black  ledges  of  sand  and  rock,  upon 
liabolitos  or  sun-stained  masses  of  a  coarse  conglomerate,  and 
upon  strong  wiers  planted  in  crescent  shape,  the  waters  lie  at 
re-t  in  the  arms  of  the  land  like  sheets  of  oil.  The  points  and 
'slets  formed  bv  these  sea-<t reams  are  almost  llu~h  with  the 
brinv  surface,  yet  they  are  overgrown  with  a  profuse  vegetation, 
the  result  of'  tropical  suns  and  copious  shower-,  which  supply 


5o'2  UK  I. MA     (OA.-T. 

the  wants  of  rich  soil.  Tin-  hanks  of  the  backwaters  are  lino«l 
with  for«->ts  of  white  :ui«l  nil  mangrove.  When  the  tide  is  out 
tin-  enne--haped  nx»t-wi»rk  -npi>orting  each  tnv  ri.-cs  uakeil  from 
the  divp  s4-a-«"»/c  ;  para-itieal  oysters  cluster  over  the  trunk.- at 
water  levi-1,  an«l  Utwecn  the  adults  rise  slender  votm-j  shoot-. 
tipjM-d  \\ith  bunches  of  brilliant  green.  The  purr  white  .-anil  i- 
Itoiind  together  bv  a  kind  of  convolvulus,  whose  lar^'e  He-hv 
leave-  and  lilac-colored  flowers  cnvp  along  the  loo-e  .-nil 
where,  rai-ed  high  above  the  (x-can  level,  the  eoa.-t  i-  a  wall  of 
verdure.  1'lot-  of  bald  old  trees,  bent  by  the  regular  bree/e-, 
U-trav  the  jM)-itions  of  settlements,  which,  general Iv  sheltered 
fr-iin  si^ht,  be>priid\le  the  coast  in  a  long  stnigglinj;  line  like 
the  -ubtirbs  of  a  ]Hipitloiis  city.  Thirteen  of  these  settlcmcnt.- 

\\ere    ei'.UIlted     ill    II    >|>aee    of   thret-    miles.        Here    and     there  the 

in 'inotonv  of  ^reen  i-  n  lieved  I iv  dwarf  earth-eliH'-  and  .-catir- 
ot'rnf'Hi-  hn«-.  And  IM  liinil  the  foreground  of  alluvial  plain,  at 
a  di-taii'-e  varving  from  three  to  live  mile-,  ri-e-  a  blue  line  of 
higher  le\-el  conspicuous  even  from  Xan/ibar  i-land  -  the 
frontier  of  the  wild  men.  In  the  narrow  -trip  between  thi- 
fpintier  of  ab-o!ute  barbarism  and  the  coa-t,  the  region  we  liave 
dex  rib'-d,  where  the  >cin i -ci v i  1  i/.at ion  ha-  it.-  fmithold.  tlie 
principal  part  of  the  population  are  -oldiers,  \\lm  call  tlieni- 
-e]ve-  I5aloeh.  Manv  of  them  were  bum  iii  Arabia,  \\here  thev 
were  fakir-,  -ai!or-,  porter-,  and  day-laborers,  barber-,  date- 
L'leaiier-,  be'j-jar-,  and  thieve-.  Tin  v  are  a  turbulent  braLrLra- 
d'».-ir,  -,  t  :  a-  vnuuLT  men.  with  no  loftier  ambition  than  mav  be 
j_"-:it:!'n-d  in  -moking,  chatting,  and  idle  <-ontroversv  ;  a- old  nun 
tli'-v  ai-i-  -il!\,  babbling  patriarchs  with  \\hiie  ln-ard-,  telling 
'.- .  Mii.li-Mii-  >tories  fif  former  times  and  di-tant  jihu-e-..  VHIMIL:  or 
•  •'.•I,  th'-v  ar<-  notorious  liars  and  vagabond-.  Ne\t  to  tlie-e  in 
diirnitv  are  th.-  \\amriina,  who-c  liighol  a-|uiation  i^  the 
privi!' •_'••  of  idlenc-v.  and  bixnrv,  which  comi*>  ca-ilv  to  them  b\- 
nn-enipnloii-  <\aeiion>  Iroin  travellers  and  traders,  and  the 
I:-!-. r  of  :!i.  -lave-  \\lio  en!li\-ate  their  field-.  Minjlinu'  ^^it^l 
tlii-  -oldii-r-  and  \\  amrima  are  mum-roii-  r«-pr«  -enJative-  of  the 
in!:iad  'rib.  -  in  varioij-  eapaeitie-.  I  he  ha!f-ea-te  Arab,  too,  i- 
a  r  i  :i-piei|,  ,11-  •  hara'-ter  in  lie-  inotle\  -.H'ietv  of  Mrima.  A 
d'_-r:i'!'«l  lieen'ion-  ela--,  Invinj;  the  freedom  from  restraint, 
,',h;.  !i  ;-  th«-  li'-en-e  of  bai  bari-m,  and  wearing  with  Iwia-tful 


JKSITI'    Ml  SMI  ON.  5',3 

pride  the  insignia  of  his  Arabic  origin,  chafing  under  the  con- 
tei.ipt  in  which  lii-  Mark  .skin  is  held,  ami  pampering  tin*  In.-tM 
of  his  black  blood.  Among  Mich  people  the  Kuro|>can  or 
American  must  not  expect  to  find  anv  appreciation  of  his  earn- 
e-t  ideas  of  life.  It  i-  onlv  natural  that  the  davs  should  lx> 
passed  in  drumming,  dancing,  aim  drinking,  gossip,  squabble, 
and  intrigue.  Bagamovo  i>  a  repre.-enfMive  town  of  Mrinia, 
and  when  Mr.  Stanlcv  landed  there,  it  was  amidst  such  people, 
and  surrounded  hv  .Mich  .-eenes.  And  the  dignitary  on  whom 
it  devolved  to  welcome  him  as  one  ^reat  man  welcomes  another 
was  no  less  a  personage  than  the  Jemedar  (commander  we  would 
>av)  of  the  soldiers  stationed  there.  This  gentleman  came  for 
ward  adorned  with  a  long  trailing  turban,  to  shake  the  Gran- 
ger's hand,  and  assisted  in  the  debarkation  of  the  expedition. 
Rut  at  Bagamovo  Mr.  S:an!ev  found  also  cordial  welcome  at 
the  hands  of  the  members  of  the  Je.Miit  mi-Mon,  established  at 
that  place  under  Father  Superior  Horncr,  who  oi1'ere<l  him 
their  hospitality,  which  was  as  genial  and  lavi-h  as  could  !i;ive 
been  expected  in  the  most  enlightened  citv  on  earth  ;  and  while 
he  felt  unwilling  to  give  up  his  independence,  >o  far  as  to  take 
up  his  abode  there,  he  enjoyed  exceedingly  such  visits  a<  h<-  jiaid 
tin1  "  fathers."  "The  mi-sion."  says  he,  "  lbrm>  ijiiite  a  village 
of  itself,  numbering  some  fif.een  or  sixteen  houses.  There  are 
ten  padres  engaged  iu  the  i'stablishn)ent  and  as  manv  >i~rer-. 
They  have  over  two  hundred  pupils,  hoys  and  girls  in  their 
care,  and  all  of  then)  seemed  to  be  making  good  proirrc--."  Mow 
much  haj)pier  would  have  been  all  eastern  Africa  to-dav,  if 
tliese  earnest  men  and  their  predecessors  had  onlv  put>U'-d  the 
wi-er  course  of  making  the  ab.-olnte  conver-ion  of  ni'-n  their 
pnmarv  aim  and  the  ground-work  of  the  relbrmation  tliev 
.-on^ht  to  effect. 

Immediately  on  landing;,  ^^!•.  Stap.ley  M-!ccti  d  himself  a  IrniM1 
in  the  outskirts  of  the  village,  and  -ct  about  coinplctin^  !ii~ 
arrangements  for  his  march  to  \"}'\\.  And  Midi  a  ta-k  !  !!;• 
parties  through  whom  he  was  obliged  to  opc:ate.  in  order  to 
secure  carriers  at  Bagamovo,  \\ire  dilatorv  and  extortionatt-, 
and  it  was  onlv  after  a  great  deal  of  annovance  and  delav.  a 
young  man,  who  announced  him>elf  as  Soor  Ilailji  I'alloo. 
made  his  appearance,  and  informed  Mr.  Stanley  that,  he  had 


5T>4  IN    MA  Iiril  I  NO   ORDER. 

l)oen  requested  to  serve  him,  by  Tarya  Topnn,  a  wealthy 
merchant  of  Zan/ilmr.  l>v  tin-  conjtcration  of  this  mail,  tlu1 
ir«M»ds  were  fmallv  all  on  the  \vav  to  I'livanvemlx1.  It  had  not 

•  ... 

U-en  thought  \vix«  for  a  lar_'e  ninnlH-r  of  jHsiplc,  \vitli  .-o  much 
protMTtv,  to  -et  out  in  a  -in^le  eompanv.  '1  IH-V  had,  therefore, 
i>«-eti  -eparated  int<»  five  di-iinet  caravans,  start  in;;  at  different 
tiling,  -o  as  id  put  Mjrne  dav-  U  tueen  them,  Mr.  Statilev  him- 
.-elf  lirin^in^  up  tlic  r<-ar  of  t!i<-  la-t  caravan,  \\hich  inovctl 
a^vav  i'roin  liu^amovo  on  tin'  21-t  of  March,  cxa<>tlv  .-<'Vciitv- 
thr«t-  <la\-  at:'  r  hr  had  landrd  mi  the  <-O;IM. 

The  cxpcilition  coiilil  hardly  have  Ixvn  more  tliorou-jhlv  <>r- 
g:ini/.itl  or  furni.-lud.  I  Inn-  \\crc  in  all  "thrc*1  white  nn-n, 
twentv-thn.  .-..idifi>,  f'liir  ^UjMTntuneraries,  lour  t-hirf-.,  and  one 
hundred  and  fifty-three1  pa^a/i~,  t\\vntv--rvcn  <l<>nkc\--,  and  one 
i-irt  ;  con\-i-vin^  rlnth,  \»  :id~,  and  \vir«-,  Incit-li \iii'j<,  tent-, 
(•ookini;  Utf-n-ils,  and  di-he.sj  medicine,  p'»\\d'-r,  ^inall  .-hot, 
inn-ki-t  l>al!-,  and  inctallif  cartridge.-,  in-truinent.-,  and  -mall 
in-<'i-— ari< -.  .-u«-h  a-  -":tj>,  Mi^ar,  ten,  .•<)!]'«•.  LirLi-'-  <-\i!M«-t  of 
nii-at,  pfinmn-:in,  candli  -,<•(<•.,  making  in  all  oni-  hundred  and 

flflV-three  ln;ids.  ThcW(-apo|)S  of  d(  t'ellee  \\hi--h  the  expedi- 
tion po--.  -~e<l  ii)U«i-ted  of  one  dr.uhle-liarrel  liftHi'h-loadin^ 
^riin,  -ni'-ii  li  Ihire  ;  one  A  ni'-ri'-an  \\  inehe-d  r  rifle,  or  >i  \teen- 
.-li<»ot.r;  one  H.-nrv  ritl--.  al-o  a  -1  \leen--hooter  :  t\\o  Starr'> 
hr--'i  h-lo:id-  !'-,  on  •  Joei-'.vu  lirceeh-loader,  one  elephant  ritle, 
(-irrvin^  Kail-  ei-lit  to  the  pound;  two  hn  eeh- loading  n-volv- 
er*.  t'ventv-foiir  mu.-ki-is  itlint  hn-k-1,  fix  -i\  lun-.-lled  pi-i-.l^, 
•  ;ie  li:ittle-a\e.  t  v.  < >  -\v.i;-d-,  t  \\  o  ilaju'er-  '  I  '<  r- i:i 1 1  Kumnier-  , 
pur-'ha-'d  !>v  Mr.  Stanh-v  at  Shira/,  one  l»4iar -hear,  t\\o  . \m-ri- 
e;m  a\<--.  l"iir  pounds  eaeh,  tuentv-lotir  halehet-,  and  t '.\iiit  v- 
f'.ur  l>u!ehe|-  Kjiive-.  N "  I !  i  i  1 1 'j  had  \:--\\  -linr-d,  i  \vr\  i  hii:j 
\va-  pr»'.  id'd.  Nothing  hail  IM--H  iloiie  Inirnedlv,  \  el  .  v-  i  \ 
t!iin_'  hid  I- -n  piireh:i-«  d,  inati'ifaetiired  •••  >!  i'-led,  and  e.iin- 
jM.und'  '1  u  ith  tlie  utni'i-t  di-j  ateh,  I'on-i-jeut  *.\  ilh  efliej.  n"-v  :::.d 

III'    til-."         'I'l.e     >1|ei-c.-     i,f     lai'.lire     depemjeil,    Ulld-  I'     (  i"d,    "II      til" 

one  in  in  u  ho  r<  .d'-  t-Kind  tie-  !a-f  ear.ivan,  "ih--  V  i::jil:ifd, 
:li.-  thin  !-.•  r,  t  L'-  \\  i! !  o|'  t  !i«-  e\  j..-dit  i'  n;." 

\\  •  earn. 1. 1  rn  ori  1  in  d.-t.ii!  l!i>-  advejitun-.  .,!'  Mr.  Sianh-v  or 
ti,"  ih  :•!•  n1-  "!  !i:-  |o::rn.-\-  t"  \  jiji.  'I  In-  faih-r  \\h'>  h.i-  no; 
lia-l  o-f-a-ion  t"  ii'iti'i  ear«-lu!!\  the  route-  of  the  different  truv- 


MR.  STANLEY'S  KOUTK.  553 

oilers  whoso  names  are  associated  with  the  Lake  Tanganyika, 
rnav  need  to  bo  cautioned  against  the  mistake  of  confounding 
Mr.  Stanley's  route  with  those  of  his  predecessors.  He  did  not 
adopt  the  path  of  Burton  and  Speke,  afterwards  traversed  hv 
S|>eke  and  Grant.  Although  the  general  features  of  the  country 
between  Zanzibar  and  I'jiji  were  already  comparatively  well 
known,  Mr.  Stanley  cannot  be  thought  of  a.s  simply  marching 
along  a  highway  ;  and  while,  being  sent  on  a  special  errand,  he 
had  not  the  liberty  of  turning  aside  for  the  purpose  of  making 
discoveries,  he  deserves  an  honorable  place  among  those  who 
have  rendered  valuable  service  in  unveiling  the  mysteries,  of 
Africa. 

lie  was  in  Africa  to  find  Dr.  Livingstone,  and  the  faithful- 
ness with  which  he  resisted  the  temptation  to  select  a  route 
which  might  draw  to  himself  the  attention  of  geographers 
proves  how  wisely  Mr.  Bennett  had  selected,  in  looking  for  a 
man  to  be  intrusted  with  M>  sacred  a  mission.  I  jiji  was,  of 
course,  the  point  toward  which  he  directed  his  steps,  not  that  lie 
expected  to  find  the  object  of  his  search  there,  but  because  lie- 
had  reason  to  hope  that  there  he  might  find  some  clue  to  his 
whereabouts.  The  contract  with  Soor  Hadji  L'alloo  provided  for 
the  transportation  of  the  expedition  to  Unyanyembe,  which  we 
will  remember  is  within  twelve  or  thirteen  davs  march  of  Ijiji. 
"There  were  three  routes  from  Bagamoyo  to  I'nyanvembe, 
either  of  which  might  have  been  taken  ;  two  of  them  had  already 
been  described  minutely  by  Messrs.  Burton,  Speke,  and  Grant  ; 
the  other,  more  northern  and  direct,  was  said  to  lead  through 
northern  U/aramo,  I'kwcre,  I'kami,  IMoe,  I'seguhha  or  l'.-e- 
gura,  I  "samara,  lTgogo,  and  Unyanxi  ;  "  this  route  was  adopted 
bv  Mr.  Stanlev.  The  distance  frum  Bagamoyo  to  I'nvunvt  m!>e, 
according  t<>  Mr.  Stanley,  is  by  direct  measurement  about 
three  hundred  and  sixty  miles,  nearly  six  degrees  of  longitude, 
but  "  the  sinuoMtv  of  the  path  taken  bv  caravans,  which  in 
Africa  follows  the  easier,  less  dangerous,  and  more  available 
courses,  extends  the  distance  to  be  traversed  to  over  five  hun- 
dred miles." 

Mr.  Stanlev  set  out  on  this  long  journey  full   of  enthusiasm, 
which  communicated   itself  to  the  whole  party  ;  and  it  was  no 
wonder  that  the  residents  of  Bagamoyo  looked  on  with  curious 
33 


0*>6  FIRST    LESSON     IN     HfNTINO. 

admiration  as  the  lont;  line  filed  away  up  the  <%  narrow  lane, 
aero-.-  which  tin-  mimosa  iHMi^h*  wove  a  royal  arch  in  sevmini; 
con-ciousnes,-.  The  -oldiers  sin;:,  the  carriers  shouted,  and  the 
kiranjMi/i  fluttered  the  l>eantifnl  Amcru-un  flai;  a-  proudly  as 
he  could  have  done  it  he  had  under.-tood  the  siifiiitimiifU  of  tho*e 
-tar-  and  -tripe>."  Mr.  Stanley  wa-  not  a  youth,  hut  his  heart 
hounded  with  youthful  joy.  and  he  lifted  up  hi-  lace  toward  the 
pure  s/lowin::  -kv  and  cried,  "(Jod  IM-  thanked!" 

"  The  road  w;t-  onlv  a  foot  path,"  winding  acro-s  the  surface 
.it  .-plendid  soil,  between  gardens  and  field-,  where  almndance 
.it  ejrain  ami  vegetables  rewarded  the  heedless  lal>or  of  the 
\\a-awahili.  The<e  rlwellers  hetween  the  seiui-civili/.ation  of 
the  coast  and  the  alxolute  darknos  of  the  interior  are  -otne  of 
them  a  little  l>etter  dre-sed.  and  make  a  little  more  respectable 
ajijM-arance  than  tho-c  farther  we-t.  I.ut  the  Mood  of  the  bar- 
liarian  i-  there,  and  the  caravan  had  ii"t  proceeded  manv  miles 
In-fore  Mr.  Stanley  wa-  surrounded  li\-  a-toni-hed  crowds  of 
men  and  women  \\  ho  were  ali-olutelv  inii"cei:t  of  clothing,  all 
^ra/in^  on  the  "  IJa-uiiiMi  "  I  white  man',  iautfhiu^  and  pointing 
tlr-ir  tinker-  like  children  at  the  various  objects  which  .-»vtne<l 
to  them  the  -t rairjeM. 

At  the  Kiir^ani  the  gallant  leader  of  the  e\p«>dition  had  his 
imtiatorv  le--.ui  -hooting  . \trican  Bailie.  '1  hi-  turbid  -tream  is 
{amou-  tor  it-  hippopotami.  It  i-  jn-t  -udi  a  -tream  a-  the-c 
hn_'e  creature-  have  -peeial  delight  in.  It-  bank-  siippoj-te*! 
the  t.inioii-  ]iiiiur'''-  of  e;iant  reeds  and  matted  climber-,  ov«-r- 
-hado\ved  bv  enormoii-  fb|-i--t  tree-,  and  threaded  bv  creek-  and 
!>..'_"j\  -Iniee-.  and  all  aero--  it-  bed  Ini^c  ma--e-  of  rock  broke 
tiie  t'..|ee  of  the  current  and  formed  iddie-,  counter-currents  and 
•in  infinite  -nee,  --ion  of  -hallow-  and  deep  pla  •. -.  While  hi.* 

ji.artV     \\e|'e    bell).:    iflJIVeVl^l    aefo--    bv    the    cailoc    Illel),    StailleV    -et 

::!HHI!  ii-t!iiLr  thi- aei-iirai-y  and  fbrci- ot'hi-  •jun-.  Hi-  Winchester 
:.!!••  a'no'isi1'  !  !•>  :i'  i'  hin_r  ;  one  old  fellow  wa-  tapped  i-!o-e  to 
r!.e  ri"'ht  '.i!.  :i:i  1  onlv  turned  around  a-  it'  to  immip  into  the 

1 

!!•  '  ']'.' -•  -  -A  a -;>•"!   pii\\d'-r  and   bal  I.        1  hi"  old  '/•  lit  leinaii   i  .i-ei  veil 

til"    lie-  •   !'    ''"'Ml    the    -l||i,..th     bur--    VcfV    ditVelVlltlv  ;    bellowing 

II'  '        .  I  l'      I        .  I       I  II 

'.'..Mi     j>;iiM,    i           1 1  •-  -in  I  >lnr_r   in   t  lie  a_"  mi.  -    o)    (leatti    he    re'-led    a 
li  !•  in  1 1 -nt  and    lei !  .|.  i  \  n  d'-ad.        I  In-    pit.  mi-    ^r.  .an-    ot    the    am  - 
ph.biou-  iii'in-'i-r  t..i|e|i  -d  a  tender  p!a--e  ..('  Mr.  Stanley'-  heart, 
«'i:  -i-  d   a  \  i\    !':•  'in   : ! ru-1   ^pin-f 


A    BEArTIFUL    DISTRICT.  f>.*>9 

The  caravan  had  in  the  meantime  crossed  safely,  men,  balofl, 
donkeys  and  baggage,  and  (he  long  line  moved  oil'  over  a  much 
more  beautiful  district  than  had  yet  been  seen  ;  fir-t  splendid 
park-like  hinds,  next  through  a  grove  of  young  cl)ony  trees,  \vhe.rc 
guinea  fowls  and  hartbeests  were  seen  ;  then  winding  about 
with  all  the  characteristic  ecccntrie  curves  of  a  goat  path,  up 
and  down  a  succession  of  land  waves,  crested  by  the  dark  gm-n 
foliage  of  the  mango,  and  the  scantier  and  lighter-colored  leaves 
of  the  enormous  calabash.  The  depressions  wen-  filled  with 
jungle,  while  here  and  there  were  open  glades,  shadowed  even 
during  noon  bv  their  groves  of  towering  trees.  As  the  strange 
cavalcade  passed  along,  every  living  thing  seemed  to  be  in  con- 
sternation, "  flocks  of  green  pigeons,  javs,  ibis,  turtle-doves, 
golden  pheasants,  quails  and  moor-hens,  with  crows  and  hawks, 
flew  awav  in  terror,  while  here  and  there  a  solitary  pelican  was 
seen  bearing  oil'  from  the  doubtful  scenes  on  statclv  win<r,  and 
beautiful  pairs  of  antelopes  dashed  awav  like  fairies,  and  grave- 
looking  monkeys  with  their  bullet  heads,  white  breasts  and 
long  tails  were  hopping  out  of  reach  like  Australian  kangaroos.'' 

Four  miles  from  the  river  a  halt  was  ordered  at  Kikoka,  which 
is  on  the  western  border  of  Mrima.  This  frontier  citv  was  only 
a  collection  of  straw  huts  erected  in  utter  indifference  of'  archi- 
tectural stvle,  surrounded  bv  a  pitiable  apology  for  fields.  The 
people  were  indolent  idlers  who  hail  >ettled  there  from  Mrima 
and  Zan/.ibar.  The  next  stage  brought  the  expedition  to  Ko-ako, 
the  frontier  village  of  I 'k were,  perched  on  a  little  hillock  sur- 
rounded bv  an  impenetrable  jungle  of  thornv  acacia. 

Mr.  Stanlev  was  now  fiiirlv  in  the  midst  of'  African  scene:*. 
The  wilderness  was  broken  onlv  bv  the  little  villages  which 
evcrv  now  and  then  appeared  peeping  through  the  crevices  of 
their  wonderful  fortresses  of  acacia,  and  the  people  were  fully 
up  to  the  average  in  genuine  African  characteristics.  And 
thenceforward  the  journey  was  the  monotonous  succession  of 
delavs,  extortions,  short  marches,  fever-,  los^s  and  anxieties 
which  distinguish  all  such  expeditions.  The  \Vakwere  were  not 
strong  enough  to  be  bold,  but  thev  were  mean  enough  to  bo 
annoving,  and  sustained  their  reputation  for  di-honeMv  with 
evident  pleasure.  And  they  supported  their  claims  to  African 
nativity  by  as  varied  devices  and  as  characteristic  development* 


500  PKTrRES^UE   SCENERY. 


SL*  any  tril>e  could  l>oa>t  of.  The  belles  of  the  district,  as  is  the 
wont  ami  undisputed  right  of  their  sex,  were  conspicuous  by  a 
fondness  fur  delight  in  bra<s  \vire  wound  in  strands  a!>ont  the 
wrists  and  ankles  and  the  various  styles  their  insipid  heads  ex- 
hibited and  lengthy  nock  laces  dangling  alnuit  their  blaek  and 
shining  bodies  \vhile  their  |><>or  lonls  were  obliged  to  l>e  eon- 
tented  with  dingy  torn  clouts  and  split  ears. 

Cm—  ing  the  I  'ngerengeri,  a  beautiful  river  with  a  broad 
fertile  valley,  on  the  western  border  of  I  'k  were,  and  passing 
thron_rh  the  narrow  belt  uf  eon  n  try  which  is  all  that  is  left  to 
the  warlike  remnants  of  the  once  powerful  Wakatni  tribe,  the 
yoiinur  traveller  entered  the  territory  of  the  Wadoe,  a  people  full 
oi  traditions,  vrho  have  alwavs  defended  themselves  brnvelv 
again-t  tin-  encroachments  of  neighbors  and  the  inva-i»n-  of 
niarand-T-.  Thev  are  describe*!  a>  nobler  looking  than  the 
Wakwere  or  Wakami,  with  a  lighter  shade  and  inm-e  intelligent 
east  of  feat  uns.  The  region  thev  inhabit  mi_rht  w«-l!  have  U-en 
guarded  bv  them  with  jealous  courage.  Speaking  "f  it,  Mr. 
Stanlev  savs  :  "  It  i-  in  apjx-aranec  ani"iiLr-t  the  nio^t  pietunxjiie 
countries  In'tween  the  ena^t  and  l*nvanveml>e.  (In-at  ennes 
shix't  upward  above  the  everlasting  !i>iv~t~,  tipped  bv  the  liirht 
fliTcv  elntids,  through  which  the  warm  irl<iwin-j  -1111  dart.-  its 
ravs,  bathing  the  whole  in  a  ijniekening  niilianee  whieh  l)riiiLTH 
out  tho~e  ^lo!n-s  of  foliage  that  ri-e  in  tier  alter  tier  along  the 
hill—  ide*  in  ri<  h  and  varied  hue-  which  would  mock  the  most 
ambition-  painter's  -kill."  From  the  winding  paths  along  the 
ere-t-  of  riil'j-.--  the  traveller  mav  look  down  over  forest-clad 
-lop.--  into  the  d<  i-p  vallev-.  and  aero--  to  other  -lope-  a-  gavlv 
clad,  and  other  ridges  where  dee|»  concentric  |i>M-  tempt  him 
to  curioi!-  wandering  bv  their  b«-;nitv  and  m\-t«rv  and  'jran- 
denr.  I5ut  tho-e  1..  velv  ^!:i-l'-  ami  '|ii'-'-ii!v  hill-  told  -:n|ilc-t 
-tori'-  of  eriii-1  d«-e«l-,  and  wfoii'j-  irre|iarabli-.  It  i-  the  old 
n'orv  ;  envious  evil  ea^'T'lv  m\:i'l'-  with  it-  polluting  prc-enee 
»ho-'-  -acp-d  -pot-  where  all  i-  lov  li«--t  ;  inl-  rn  il  malice  mars 
\\ith  -t  r.iii::«'  d-'li  _'ht  u  hat  i-  l»auti!'ul  and  pnri  .  '  >n  man  tir-t, 
en-ftfio:/-  inner  court,  the  author  ..('  evil  ti\',|  hi-  reven^'-t'nl 
T'-.  rind  r-  -f-d  not  until  lln-  i-rU'  1  I'li.'ht  had  fall-  n  on  all  ih-' 
Imiutv  n:id  pun''..  And  human  depravitv,  1  k'-  the  malic*'  of 
,  h:t«  worn  it.-  dark'-t  -cowl  .-unid  the  |ove|i«--t  -<•«  m--,  and 


FOKKSTS   AND    BARBARIANS.  501 

(lvc»l  the  records  of  its  infamv  the  (Uv|>Cht  into  those  pagca 
of  nature  where  the  eve  of  (iod  and  the  ga/e  of  angels  dwell 
ollencst. 

Attacked  by  the  joint  forces  of  the  Wuseguhha  from  the 
not  and  north,  and  the  slave-traders  of  Whinde  and  Sa'a  dani 
from  the  cast,  the  \\adoe  have  seen  their  wives  and  little  ones 
carried  into  .-lavcry  a  hundred  times.  And  their  courage  hoi 
not  prevented  the  more  powerful  allies  from  cutting  away  dis- 
trict alter  district  from  their  country.  Their  superiority  was 
their  misfortune,  the  beauty  and  intelligence  of  their  women 
tempted  the  lustful  Arabs,  and  the  fertility  of  their  soil  tempted 
their  neighbors.  The  Arabs  found  it  ca.-y  to  find  allic.->  in 
the.-e  covetous  neighbors  for  their  slave-wars. 

Leaving  the  Wadoe,  Mr.  Stanley  journeyed  on,  through  I  se- 
guhha,  whose  lords  have  come  into  their  titles  by  their  unholv 
alliance  with  the  traders.  Most  conspicuous  in  this  country 
was  the  stronghold  of  Kisabengo,  which  had  descended  to  his 
daughter  before  Mr.  Stanley's  visit.  The  Wascgiihha  made 
their  appearance  at  everv  village  armed  with  muskets  which 
had  been  the  reward  of  their  marauding  services.  With  this 
great  advantage  thev  were  easily  the  scourge  of  that  part  of 
Africa.  Their  country  is  sterile  and  mountainous,  furnished 
with  glootnv  forests  and  inaccessible  passes,  just  such  a  region 
as  we  would  expect  to  ibstcr  the  barbarous  instincts  of  it-  rude 
inhabitants.  Journeying  through  this  region  the  traveller  mav 
congratulate  himself  on  the  strength  of  his  escort,  and  he  will 
find  u.-e  for  his  full  stock  of  patience  and  forbearance.  It  was 
plea.-ant  to  descend  from  these  inhospitable  hills  into  the  district 
of  I  >uara,  annum'  a  people  reflecting  in  their  characters,  like 
tho.-e  of  I 'doe,  the  gentler  sceiierv  which  surrounds  them. 
The  Wasagaru  were  naturallv  a  little  suspicious,  as  the  victims 
of  the  Arabs  and  their  a— ociates  are  always,  but  thev  soon  per- 
ceived that  the  white  man  was  of  di He-rent  spirit,  and  then  the 
excellences  of  their  character  were  readily  revealed,  and  thev 
proved  themselves  a  frank,  amiable,  and  brave  people.  "  1  he 
Wasagara,  male  and  lemale.  tattoo  the  forehead,  bo.-oiu.  and 
arms.  Besides  inserting  the  neck  of  a  gourd  in  each  ear,  which 
carries  his  little  store  of  tobacco  and  lime,  he  carries  ipiitc  a 
number  of  most  primitive  ornaments  around  hi>  in-ck.  Midi  as 


5<>2  "A    HAM)»)MK    Yor.\<;    SAVACK." 


two  or  throe  snowv  cowrie  shells,  rarvcd  pints  of  wood,  a  small 
^oal^horn,  some  metlieinc,  conseerated  bv  the  medicine-man  of 
the  trilx1,  a  fund  «t'  white  or  ml  l>eads,  two  or  three  pierced 
Suiigoiuax/i  e^-lx-ads,  <  >r  a  -trim;  of  copjH-r,  ami  sometimes  small 
bra-.-  chain-,  \\hich  tiny  have  pmvha.-ed  from  Aral)  traders." 

"A  youthful  WasiLrara,"  continues  Mr.  Stanley,  "with  a 
faint  tin^e  nf  ochre  embrowning  the  dull  black  hue  <>f  his  facr, 
\\ith  f>;ir  or  five  bright  copjHrr  coins  ranged  over  his  forehead, 
with  a  tinv  <_">urd'-  neck  in  each  ear,  with  a  thousand  ringlets, 
well  'jiva-ed  and  ornamented  with  bits  of  bra^-,  his  head  well 
thrown  back,  hi-  broad  ehe>t  forward,  with  his  mu-eular  arms 
and  well-proportioned  limb-;,  reproent.s  the  bctin-iilcul  of  a 
hand-ome  voun-^  African  savage." 

Little  better  tliaii  thi'ir  ea.-tern  neij^hlmrs  are  the  Wago^o, 
\vho-e  territory  ]«\i\*  that  ot'  the  NVjtsagara  (|n  the  \\c-t.  It 
W:LS  the  L'.'iili  day  of  Mav  when  the  t-ner^etie  vouni;  traveller 
Cliteretl  the  dangerous  land  ot  I  ^o^o.  He  had  le<l  hi^  caravan 
t\\o  hiindnti  and  r-eveiitv-ei^jht  mile*.  He  had  pa>s4il  through 
the  territories  ot  the  NVakomj,  NN'akwere,  \\adoe,  \\'a*eurura, 
Waxiijara,  and  \\ohehe.  Had  rro»e<l  the  n\(i>  Kin^aiii, 
I  *n_'i-ren^<-re.  Little  Makata,  (  ireat  Makata,  Ivudewa,  and  Mu- 
kondokwa.  He  had  di-covered  t!ie  -oiirce*  ol'  the  KiiiLrani, 
(he  \\ami,  and  the  Mukondokwa  rivers,  ami  the  Lake  I  "-joinlM). 
T'.\o  hor-e-<  and  -eventeen  donkeys  had  dud;  vanoii-  article* 
had  di-a|>|><  an-d  under  t  he  pre--nre  ot  <-ireini)~taiie.-  or  -ome  • 
body.  Several  pe-ja/i-  had  de-erted,  -oine  had  died,  and  l-'anpi- 
hai-  had  be.-ii  h-tt  behind  -ii-k.  Thi-  \\a-  a  ni-\v  people,  unlike 
l!io-"  ainoii'^  whom  h<-  had  been,  with  new  pen!-.  A  -ferile 
plateau,  eoveidl  1  1  v  t|,c  nio'-t  elaiiiii-h  and  i-o\e!,ni-  extortioner^. 

A   powerful  ti'ibe,  |Mi--e--iii'_r  remarkable  ph\~ie;d  and    mental 
development,  not   unbl  «•  the  familiar  ne_-ro  l\  pe  in    general    ap 
pearanci-,  the    \\  a  M-JO    i-    at    the    -ame    tune    a   tribe    of    proud, 

!•   !'"'   i"'l-     Mlell.    look  III'..'    \'.  Itll    I'OVi'toIl-    eve    o||    llie    •_'  .....  1  -    nf    cVi'l'V 

l:a\--i!e|-,  and    read\    on    ;li'     -lijhle-t    oeea-ion  to  pr«Kiiil   to  anv 

!'  -II  .'id-    ot'  \  iolelier-.          .\  'I|M||_'    t  ll«  •-••    peopli-    Mr.    SrailleV     U  a-    -llb- 

j--.  ted  t'l  ;he  in"-!  unna-onable  tine-;  and  although  he  \va-^ 
v.  ••!!  tuini-lied  '.\:ih  ritl---.  n  \\a-  \>:\  inanife-i  ihat  in  their  o\\  n 
t  i-'  u«  --•  -.  :i-  rlj.  \-  \\e|-e,  and  -Nvainiin^  in  -u-  ii  \a-t  nnnibei-. 
p.  .!•-,.  v,a-  \\-ll  !..iM.:iit  at  anv  price.  The  \i!l.,-.N  \\eieall  lor- 


THE    WAfifXiO    WAItUIOK.  '>(>j 

trows,  the  whole  p<i|>nlation  was  habitually  pquipjM>d  tor  ex- 
tremities. Speaking  of  his  experience  among  them,  Mr.  Stanley 
savs  : 

"  As  \vc  passed  th<'  numerous  villages  and  |>ereeived  the 
entire  face  of  (lie  country  to  he  one  v:ust  grain-field,  and  eounted 
the  peoj)le  everywhere  in  Croups,  hy  scores  ga/ing  on  the  white 
man,  I  eon  hi  not  wonder  at  their  extortionate  demands,  for  it 
was  evident  that  thev  had  only  to  stretch  out  their  hands  and 
take  whatever  the  caravan  possesses  1  •  and  I  began  to  think 
better  of  them,  because,  knowing  well  their  strength,  they  did 
not  use  it  without  restraint." 

The  Waijogo  warrior  is  always  equipped  ;  his  weapons  arc- 
n.  bow,  a  .-heal'  of  long,  murderous-looking  arrows,  pointed, 
pronged,  and  barbed  ;  a  couple  of  light,  beautifully  made  asse- 
gois,  a  broad  sword-looking  spear,  with  a  blade  over  two  ieet 
long;  a  battle-axe  and  a  knob  club.  He  carries  also  a  shield, 
painted  with  designs  in  black  and  white;  this  i>  oval  shaped, 
and  made  of  the  rhinoceros,  elephant,  or  bull  hide.  The  vil- 
lages are  full  of  these  warriors.  It  was  weary,  anxious  march- 
ing, through  jungles  of  gum  and  thorns,  over  ru-j^ed  hill-,  and 
across  scorching  plains,  with  such  neighbors.  Over  and  over 
he  was  saved  from  serious  trouble  by  the  wisdom  of  "  Speke's 
faithfuls,"  who  knew  well  the  habits  of  the  people.  Hut  vil- 
lanous  as  they  mav  be,  the  Wagogo  believe  in  (iod  or  the  "  Skv 
Spirit,"  whom  thev  call  Mulungn,  and  they  address  pravers  to 
him  when  their  parents  die.  Mr.  Stanley  records  a  conversation 
which  he  had  with  a  Magogo  trader,  which  mav  be  interesting  as 
revealing  something  of  the  character  and  belief  of  the  tribe: 

S.   "  Who  do  von  suppose  made  vour  parents?'' 

T.   "Why,  Muluugu,  white  man!" 

S.    "  Well,  who  made  you".'" 

T.   "  It'  (Iod  made  mv  father,  Clod  made  me,  didn't  he?" 

S.  "\\ell,  that's  very  good.  Where  do  voii  >nppo-e  vour 
father  is  gone  to.  now  that  he  is  dead?" 

1.  "  1  he  tlead  die,"  said  he,  solemnlv,  "thev  arc  no  inure. 
The  sultan  (chief)  dies;  he  becomes  nothing:  he  i-  then  no 
better  than  a  dead  dog,  he  is  finished,  his  word-  arc  tini.-hed, 
there  are  no  more  words  from  him.  It  i<  true."  he  added,  sit- 
ing a  smile  on  my  t'ae(\  "the  sultan  becomes  nothing.  He  who 
sayb  other  words  is  a  liar,  there  !  " 


604  I>I:ATH  A.VI>  MATRIMONY. 

S.  "  Hut  then  he  is  a  verv  great  man,  is  he  not?" 

T.  "While  he  lives,  only  ;  after  death  he  goes  into  the  pit, 
and  then-  is  no  more  to  IK-  said  of  him  than  of  any  other  man." 

S.   "  HOW  do  voti  burv  a  Mgtigo?" 

T.  "His  l.-j-  are  tied  together;  his  right  arm  to  his  body, 
and  hi-  left  put  under  his  head  ;  he  is  then  rolled  on  his  left  .side 
in  the  grave.  Hi-  doth  he  wore  (luring  his  life  is  spread  over 
him  ;  we  put  the  earth  over  him,  and  put  thorn  bushes  over  it 
to  prevent  the  hveiia  from  getting  at  him.  A  woman  is  put  on 
her  left  side,  in  a  grave  apart  from  the  man." 

S.  "\\hat  do  voii  do  with  a  Mil  tan  (chief)  when  lie  IA 
•  lead?" 

T.  ''  \\  e  burv  him,  too,  of  course;  only  he  is  buried  in  the 
mid-lie  "f  the  village,  and  we  build  a  house  over  it.  Iv.ieh  time 
they  kill  an  ox  thev  kill  it  In-fore  hi-  grave.  Wh<  ;i  tin-  old 
sultan  die-  the  new  one  call-  for  an  ox  and  kill-  it  before  his 
grave,  calling  »n  Mulungu  to  \\nne--  that  he  i-  the  rightful 
sultan.  He  then  di-tnbiite-  th  •  in  a'  in  hi-  father-  name. 

S.     "   \\   ho   -Uecced-    the   sultan  '.'         1-    he   t  lie   elde-t    -(Ml'.'" 

T.  "  ^  <~,  it  he  has  a  son  ;  if'  childlc— ,  the  great  chief'  next 
to  him  in  rank.  The  m.-.-ejira  i-  the  next  to  the  sultan,  \\ho-c 
bii-ine--  it  is  to  hear  the  cau-c  of  complaint  and  couvev  \\  to  the 

Rllltall,    who    through    the  sllltail   di^H-llSO*    jll-tice.        He     receives 

the  hon_ra,  carries  it  to  the  -ultan,  and  when  the  ,-ultan  has 
taken  what  he  wi-h'-s  the  re-t  goe-  to  the  nisagira.  The  chiefs 
are. -all- (|  manva-para  ;  the  m-a:_rira  i-  the  chief'  manva-para.'' 

S.    "  How  do  th--  Wa^o'/o  marrv  ?  " 

T.    "  <  >!i,  thi  v  buv  their  uoinen." 

S.    "  \N  hat   i-  a  \\oinan  worth  '.' " 

T.  "A  verv  poor  man  can  buv  hi-  wife  from  her  father  for 
two  -joat-." 

S.  "  Ilo-.v  much  ha-  the  -ultan  got  to  pav'.'" 
1  .  "  II'-  ha-  '_'"(  to  pav  about  one  hundred  -joat-,  or  -o  manv 
(•..•'.-,  or  -o  manv  -li--e|i  and  foal-,  to  hi-  bride'-  lather.  <  >1 
'"i::-e  In  i-  a  ehi-f.  I  he  -ultan  would  not  buv  a  coinnioii 
'.voinan.  I  h<  father'-  eoii-«  nt  i-  to  IM-  obi  tin. d.  ai:d  the  ea!tle 
h  i\e  to  L-  jiv  n  U|>.  It  take-  manv  dav-  !•>  lin;-li  the  talk 
•ib"iit  it.  All  the  fi!uii\-  and  tin-  fi'i'-n«l-  of  the  l>n<!<-  ha\e  to 

t.'i"      abollt     it     belo].        he    La','-    he!'    fltll.   f'-    l|oll-e." 


I'KN  A  I/TIES    AM)    \VITCIICUA1-T.  A& 

S.  ''  In  eases  of  murder,  what  do  you  do  to  the  111:111  who 
kills  another?" 

T.  "The  murderer  has  to  pav  fifty  cows.  If  he  is  too  poor 
to  pay,  the  sultan  gives  his  penni.-.-iou  to  the  murdered  man's 
friends  or  relatives  to  kill  him.  If  they  eateh  him  they  tie  him 
to  a  tree  and  throw  sjM-ars  at  him,  one  at  a  time,  fir.-t  ;  thev  then 
spring  on  him,  cut  his  head  oil',  then  his  arms  and  limbs  and 
scatter  them  about  the  country." 

S.   "  How  do  VMU  punish  a  thief?" 

T.  "  If  lie  is  found  stealing  he  is  killed  at  onee  and  nothing 
is  said  about  it.  Is  he  nut  a  thief  '.'" 

S.   "  IJut  suppose  you  do  not  know  who  the  thief  is?" 

T.  "If  a  man  is  brought  before  us  aeeused  ot'  ,-tealiug  we 
kill  a  ehiekeu  :  if  the  entrails  are  white,  he  is  innocent  ;  if  yellow, 
he  is  guilty." 

S.   "Do  you  believe  in  witchcraft?" 

T.  "Of  cotir>c  we  do,  and  punish  the  man  with  death  who 
bewitches  cattle  or  stops  rain." 

There  was  very  little  temptation  to  loiter  in  Ugogo,  and  all 
possible  expedition  was  used  in  passing  through  it.  Mr.  Stan- 
ley was  exceedingly  anxious  to  reach  I'nvaiiyembe.  He  had 
already  picked  up  bits  of  information  which  encouraged  him  to 
hope  that  he  might  soon  be  able  to  report  the  success  of  his 
mission.  Early  in  April,  while  on  the  banks  of  the  I'n^cr- 
engcre,  he  had  met  one  Salim  bin  Rasheed,  who  -aid,  "  I  -aw 
the  musungu  (white  man),  who  came  up  from  the  Nva~.-a  a 
long  time  ago,  at  I'jiji  last  year.  He  lived  in  the  next  tembe 
tome.  He  has  a  long  white  moustache  and  beard.  He  was 
then  about  going  to  Marungu  and  I'niema." 

On  the  IStli  of  May  Sheikh  Abdullah  bin  \\Vif  had  called 
at  his  cnmp  at  Mpwapwaand  told  him  "the  miHiiiiLru  has  ijone 
to  Manvuema,  a  month's  march  from  I  |iji.  He  h;i^  met  a  bad 
accident,  having  >hot  him-ell'  in  the  thi_h  while  out  hunting 
butl'aloes.  \\"hen  he  ^ets  well  he  will  return  tol'jiji."  Stimu- 
lated bv  these  rwports  everv  energy  wa.-  exerted,  and  on  the 
thirtieth  ilav  after  enteriun  I  "u'"J.'"  Mr.  Stanley  was  in  I  nyun- 
yembe,  at  the  village  ot'  K  wihara. 

lie  had  been  singularly  successful  thus  far,  and  though  he 
had  been  pretty  thoroughly  initiated  into  the  vicissitudes  of 


-4>b  A    "HOT    BREAKFAST. 

African  travel,  and  had  had  *ome  severe  touches  of  the  ills 
which  everv  >t ranker  who  jn-net rates  these  wilds  mn.*t  count 
on,  he  stood  in  t'liyanyembc  in  goml  spirits,  ami  *anguine  of 
Mict*-».  More  than  once.  Providence  >cemed  to  have  interposed 
for  him  ;  not  onlv  had  he  U-en  sustained  in  *cveiv  illness,  and 
saved  from  encounter*  with  the  nativi-*.  who  *<•  frcijuentlv 
seemed  to  !*•  *et  on  a»»  attack  :  there  had  lieeii  particular  JHT- 
.*j»nal  danger*  ;  *everal  linns  hi*  men  had  threatened  mutinv. 
()n«t-  particularly,  he  \\a>  gmciouslv  preserved.  The  two  white 
men  whom  he  had  employed  had  In-come  exceedingly  disa- 

greeahle  ;   thev    \\efc  Utterly   Worthlc*.-,   lint    the  proelice  of  white 

fa<i-  and  Knglish-s|R>aking  tongue*  wa*  a  ^n-at  relict'  in  tho 
mid*t  of  *o  much  degradation.  Mr.  Stanley  continued  the 
kindest  treatment;  hut  on  the  morning  of  the  loth  of  Mav, 
\\hile  trotihles  w.-re  in  full  force,  \\hen  the-e  two  men  were  in- 
vited  to  l>reakla*t  a*  n*nal,  it  wa*  evident,  Iroin  their  *urlv 
greeting,  that  something  \\a*  the  matter.  Stanley  had  overheard 
them  a  *hort  time  In-fore  in  loud  and  an-jrv  conver*ation.  and 
now  their  countenance-  and  manner  <  'Mivineed  him  that  their 
niL'1'  wa*  a^ain-t  him. 

"  Break tii-t  ua*  hrought  on.  coii*i*ting  of  a  roa*t  ipiarter  of 
goat,  *te\\cd  liver,  *wcct  jMitatoe*,  hot  pancake*,  and  cotVev." 
And  turning  toShavv,  Mr.  Stanley  reijiie-ted  him  to  earve  and 
help  l-'arijuhar.  Tin*  *cemed  to  In-  the  *i-jnal  fora  rupture, 
und  Shaw  replitnl,  in  the  mo*t  in.-ulting  manner,  "  \\  hat  dog's 
meat  i-  thi*  '.'  " 

'•  What  do  yon  mean '.' "  a-ked  Staidey.  Whereupon  Shaw 
tiroke  nut  in  a  r:c_re  of  ahuse.  lie  would  hear  no  n-mon*t  ranee, 
lie  \\a*  al»-oh)te!v  in*en-ilile  to  all  rea-on,  and  per-i>tei|  in  hi* 
n  id'  in  --  until  M  r.  Stanley  knocked  him  •!•  i\\  n.  \\  hen  he  aro*e 
he  demanded  a  di*<-hari.'e  Irom  the  company,  and  Stanley  im- 
me-iiati  !\  ordered  h:-  thin-*  all  »••  !•••  put  ii"\\n  oiit*ide  of  the 
camp,  and  told  him  to  -<,.  It  \\..n!d  ha\'e  l.e,  n  I.,  tier  if  Stan- 
le\  h.id  I,.,;  r-\..kii|  thi*  deei-ii.n  ;  Imt  tint  \cr\  ni-ht  Shaw 
-ent  in  -n  h  hirnl.!'-  IIH  --a--  -  that  he  \\  a-  all^uid  t"  return. 
'I  h  if  lit'!--  Lit  1. 1'  e|.  Hi- nev  came  n.  :i|-  In  in-  the  ruin  of  the 

i   \p<  dlt  t"!l. 

I  IP    t:i  in  -  am-     l.ai'k   '.v  ;th     \pre--:iin-  •'!    det-p  repentance,  a*- 
*nrin_'  **tan!-  \    '!.  i'   he  -h-.'ild    :ie\-'-r  ha\e  .M-ea-ion  »..  find    fault 


SHOOTING     IN    SLEEP  (?)  5<J7 

with  Iiini  again,  and  wax  received  with  absolute  confidence. 
That  vrrv  night,  as  Mr.  Stanley  was  about  falling  a-lecp,  he 
heard  a  shot,  and  a  bullet  tore  through  his  tent,  only  a  i'-w 
inches  above  his  Ixxly.  Snatching  uj>  hi-  revolver.-  he  ru-hed 
out  of  the  tent,  and  tisked  the  men  around  the  watch-tires,  ''  \\  Ji<> 
shot?"  They  had  al!  jumped  up,  startled  by  the  report. 

"Who  fired  that  gun?"  "liana  Mdogo  "  (little  ma-ten, 
said  one  of  the  men.  This  was  the  title  by  which  Shaw  wa- 
known.  Lighting  a  candle,  Stanley  walked  with  it  to  Shaw'-* 
tent,  and  after  calling  him  several  times  succeeded  in  getting 
a  response.  Fain  ing  to  be  half  asleep,  Shaw  said,  "  Kh — eh, 
fire,  me  fire  did  you  sav  ?  I've  been  asleep.''  lint  his  gun  wa- 
lying  by  him.  Stanley  put  his  hand  on  it,  the  barrel  was  -till 
warm,  and  the  mark  of  fresh-burnt  powder  was  on  his  hand. 
The  man  then  tried  to  excuse  himself  by  saying  that  he  had 
Ixru  dreaming,  and  thought  that  he  was  shooting  a  robber. 
There  could  be  no  doubt  in  Mr.  Stanley's  mind  that  this  wa-  a 
deliberate  attempt  to  murder  him.  Looking  back  over  the  wav 
he  had  been  led,  he  felt  constrained  to  thank  (iod  for  hi- 
goodncss  ;  and  is  it  not  a  notable  coincidence  that,  at  almo-t  the 
.same  hour  in  which  the  lianian  slaves  were  plotting  for  the 
destruction  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  a  similar  peril  should  have 
been  impending  the  lite  of  Mr.  Stanlev? — and  both  were 
spared.  Surely  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  same  watchful 
eve  was  over  them  both,  and  that  the  same  Providence  which 
revealed  the  wicked  purposes  of  the  Banians  disappointed  the 
murdei'ous  intention  of  the  white  mail. 


CHAPTKR    XXXI. 

r.NYANYK.MHK. 

j'railttions  of  !*nynimvr/i     Tin-  Apjx'untMrr  of  tin-  Country— Thf  Soil  —  "  Fnirr 
}|ount<"      VillaL'1"-     Tin-   Wanyaniwi-/i        Son*   of   Main        I^>vrr>    of    Music 
-Mai'lin      Foil. In.  •-••     f.-r     I>is|,|ny        'i't  a  -  I'arli.  -        Matmnly    (M.SSJJ,        T'nr 
<'lu!>-!:  ...-us      M.i-1-iiIiin-    Vanitx       HOII.C   !.•('••   in    I 'ny.iiiiui  vi      Tin-   H..UM-S 

Th-    I'n   ni  ii..-        I  "mill..'    Hal!      "<«.-.-i    I'.artli  "      Popular     Pr«  :u <lii  <•-      I' 1 

>'f   \V.in\  atiiwt /.i         lainily    All.o'ion         \\"->inaii'->     K  ^lit-        I  <>vr    am!     Law 
W:iiiy;t!iiMr/i.  tin  ir   I'roliiilivnri'      (irt.il    Travdlrr*      'I  In-  "(  arr:rr-«  "   ••!    |-..i>l 
Afri-'.i      \.ir\uii;  i  li.irai  i«-r      l'iiyiin\  riulM- ( 'fittrul  I'mviiifi1      Ar.ili  Sfttli-inritt 

-  \1  r     -'a:J- \I'H    I'.i-  ••  )•! i> .11      Say!    l'in    Salmi      ^tanli-x  '>     l|oii-»-      Nlunilii^-nl 
Uo«|.:i.i:  ]'\       Vi-ii-T-   from    Talwira      1'alxir.i    Villaiff      .  \rali    l.iixurv      I'ri-ini- 
n.-i.t  An'.-    ..f    I;.l...r.i      Mr.   >!an!fy    Vi»iis    Tal>..ra      Thr    I  .>nn.  .1    ••!     \\.ir 
Mir.iiu!..-      An    I'nlia|i|iy    Alliaip-i-      Sii-ktu---     <'limatc   ..!'  I   n\  ,in\  •  ml..-      Tin- 
H.ittl-     Array       I»i«.i«t--r     an. I      K.-Inat      <ila.l     I..    t/uK      'l.iLl.-     I  urn-    I       I  I;- 
'•I'!\n.j   «'ar:ivan"      A    \V.-.-|,inL'    I.-.v.-r      <  In    lln-     Man-li     A-/a:n       \lan^ar:» 

•  •ran. I   l:.-.-.-j.ii..n  ..I  <   I.:,-!'-      A  .lolly  T.inr      Th.    Annn.,n.a   K-lll.    I   n,,,rk.,l 
An  Inij.r---M.i!i   Nl.i'l.       -pi-  -ii'li'l  I  <ai:i'  -I'. irk      '!'«  o  I  ).i\  .'  I  luntinj    -  Troijl'lr  in 
Can.j.     A   !:.-vo!t      A   I>n.i.|fu!    1'L.t    -Tl.,-    l'l.,|-,-      M  n  r.i. 

IT  iniiv  inti  i-i -t  tin-  curious  tn  I'xatniiU' tin*  fvidfiici's  «>i  tin1 
^raii'liiir  o!  I  'nv:im\vr/i  in  the  <lavs  that  traditions  I»-II  »i\ 
\\ht-n  tiii-  \;iriiiii-  |ii-i»vini-<--  were  unit«tl  under  <>in-  ^n-at  i-liirt- 
fain.  Bui  tin-  modem  traveller,  intent  on  in\«-teries  euncealed 
in  ri  i.».it« T  r<"_rii ni-,  or  reaehinj.j  eap'Hv  forward  under  tlie 
nr_"  r.t  pi'' --ui'i-  u|  -miif  sfwcial  ini>>ion,  has  liardlv  tnm-  lor 
jiaiii-iit  invi  -t  i'/ation  of'  tin-  thousand  liint^  iVoin  \\hii-h  all  eon- 
i-iii-ion.  coiii-rnniiL'  earlv  . \lncan  hi-tnrv  nui-t  !»<•  drawn.  It 
««  I'm-  nioi-i-  important  tliat  the  roijntrv  !>••  kno\,\n  :i-  ;i  i-,,  1,,-i.ir,- 
\\.-  IK.. >ni'-  al>-i>rln<l  in  inijiiirv  alniiit  \\liat  H  lia-  l»-i-n.  'I  lie 
I  'nvam\\e/i  of'  our  t  inn-  i-om|in-«--  a  m mil"  r  o|  pi-t t  \  pro\  iuc»~, 
i  .!•  ii  n.  L  no\\  1«  •<!_';  i  i'_r  M-  o\\  ii  t  \  rant .  \\  li«'-«  ant  lion  tv  i-  i -on  lined 
v.  it  liin  a  i  in  n  n  i  I'M  ii'-'-  "t  a  li-\\  mil'--.  '1  In-  <  oimt  r\  i-  i|i  ~<  i  il«  d 
a-  !\ii.  '  l.'t\M-iii  tlii  liarr-M,  r'-'l,  L'lariiiLT  i'(  '_ri"n-  "I  I 'L'"L'O  and 
tiif  .l.uk,  iiion<itoiioii-,  verdure  o|  tin-  nioii-  \\i--trrn  pri  .\  IIH  ••-, 
lik«-  a  -/.ir-i'  n. 

J,u,-     ••'   \"',\  inn, >a!  and  taliiilar  lulU  \\ind  al>ont  irregularly 


APPEARANCE    OF    I'N  VA  M  WKZI.  MO 

on  the  general  undulation.  There  are  no  mountains.  "The 
superjacent  stratum  is  clay,  overlying  the  sandstone,  biised  ii|N>n 
various  granites,  which  in  some  places  crop  out,  picturesquely 
disposed  in  blocks  and  Ixndders  and  Imp-  domes  and  Inmpv 
masses;  ironstone  is  met  with  at  u  depth  varv ing  from  five  to 
twelve  feet,  and  hits  of  coarse  ore  have  Ix-en  found  in  t'nvan- 
yembe  by  digging  not  more  than  four  feet  in  a  chance  -jnjt 
During  the  rains  the  grass  conceals  the  soil,  but  in  the  drv  sea- 
sons the  land  is  grav,  lighted  up  bv  golden  stubbles,  and  dotted 
with  wind-distorted  trees,  shallow  swamps  of  emerald  grass,  and 
wide  streets  of  dark  mud.  Dwarfed  stumps  and  charred  '  black 
jacks'  deform  the  fields,  which  are  sometimes  ditched  or  hedged 
in,  whilst  a  thin  forest  of  parachute-shaped  thorns  diversifies  the 
waves  of  rolling  land  and  earth  hills,  s|>otted  with  sunburnt 
stone.  The  reclaimed  tracts  and  clearings  are  divided  from  one 
another  by  strips  of  primeval  jungle,  varying  from  two  to 
twelve  miles  in  length,  and,  as  in  other  parts  of  Africa,  the 
country  is  dotted  with  'fairy  mounts' — dwarf  mounds — the 
ancient  f.ites  of  trees  now  crumbled  to  dust,  and  the  debris  of 
insect  architecture.  Villages,  the  glorv  of  all  African  tribes, 
are  seen  at  short  intervals  rising  onlv  a  little  above  their  im- 
pervious walls  of  lustrous  green  milk-bush,  with  its  coral-shaped 
arms,  variegating  the  well-hoed  plains;  whilst  in  the  pa-tnrc 
lands  herds  of  many-colored  cattle,  plump,  round-barrelled  and 
high-humped,  like  Indian  breeds,  and  mingled  ilocks  of  gnats 
and  sheep,  dispersed  over  the  landscape,  suggest  idea-  of  bar- 
barons  comfort  and  plenty." 

The  proprietors  of  this  soil  are  the  typical  race  in  this  por- 
tion of  central  Africa;  and  their  (i-i.i^arative  industry  and 
commercial  activitv  have  secured  them  a  conspicuous  superioritv 
among  the  tribes. 

Thev  are  generally  splendid  specimen-  of  the  genu<  homo,  so 
far  as  phvsical  proportions  mala'  it  up;  tall  and  manly-looking, 
and  endowed  with  remarkable  strength  and  vowcrs  of  en- 
durance. But  they  are  genuine  sons  of  Ham  notwithstanding; 
the  deep  brown  hue  and  negroid  features  are  unijue<tionable, 
even  it'  they  were  unsustained  by  the  characteristic  diluvium, 
which  no  ablutions  can  prevent,  and  if  their  cranial  coverings 
were  less  conspicuous.  Like  all  negroes  they  are  great  lovers 


570 


FONDNESS  FOI:  DISPLAY. 


of  rnu-ie,  and  Miion^  them  there  are  artists  \vho.  in  -pit.-  of  the 
l>ar!>aroit-  monotonv  of  their  strain-,  furni.-h  real  amu-i  m<  nt. 
.Manv  of  the-e  individuals  are  great  improvisators,  and  delight 
to  x\i-ave  the  latest  jKjlitieal  new-  or  personal  .-eandal  into  their 
merry  -on^. 

The  national  love  of  ornament  al.-o  prevail-  in  all  its  extrava- 
gance. '•  From  the  hour  that  a  maiden  Ke^in-  to  :-all  for 
mamma,*' says  Mr.  Stanley,  "her  ornament-  are  her  con.-tant 

solicitude.       She     loves    to     hnik     at     the   pl'ettv    \vri-tlet-    of    red, 

veilow,  white,  and  green  Ix-ads  \\hich  re.-t  upon  her  dark  -kin 
in  -u«-h  contrast;  she  love-  to  twine  her  lingers  through  the 
ieii'j-thv  necklaces  of  variegated  bead-,  or  to  plav  with  the  ln-nd 
!'«  !t  that  enc<>mpa.--e-  her  \vai-t  ;  >he  even  -et-  them  in  her  hair 
and  l«".v-  t"  !>'  told  that  thev  become  her  ia-  \shat  maiden  d«>(- 
!!'•['.'  It  i-  a  p!ea-ure  \\ith  IP  r  to  p, ,--,--  a  -jiiral  \\irceinc- 
:un-  i-veii  though  -he  po--t --e-  no  garment  to  he  supported  hv 
it.  Shi-  auait-  with  impatience  t!n-da\  \\hen  .-he  can  he  mar- 
ried, ain!  have  a  cloth  to  fold  around  lnrl>»dv — until  -he  (-m 
have  an:  iii  •!' it  v  t"  disjw»-e  of  In  r  l.  .n  1-  tor  t  hi'  cheap  t  m-i  !  -old 
l»v  Aral'  merchant.-."  'I  In-  grave  matron-,  t...,,  di-|>!a\  di-pn-;- 
ti"ii-  «j!i!T-  a-  eoinpn  lien-iiile  to  tin'  ladies  ot  more  vnli^hti  ned 
land-  a-  i-  thi-  craving  ot'  the  maidi-n-  for  \\ialth  of  ..rnamei.t. 
PI  rhap-  th-Te  i-  ijotliing  more  matronlv  than  tin-  propen-itv 
whi-'!i  ha-  it-  fullest  indulgence  in  tho.-e  evening  gatheriiiL:-  "I 
\\orlii-\\ide  reputation  a-  tea-parti--,  and,  un«jiii— tiornhlv,  the 
h'-in-v-ileiit  champion-  of  1'einale  eonti  ntnn  nt  \\iil  hail  \\ith  de- 
!:_'!if  tin-  t'-timonv  of  an  eve-\\  itne--.  t  hat  he  had  "in  vc-  IM  hi  Id 
a;;\'!nir_r  -o  approaching  to  happine--  and  pi-rlee;  contentnnnt 
:•-  tip  fa  •  <  -  of  tin'  old  and  voiiir_r  \\onn  n  of  I  nvam\\  ••/!  ;;-  »hi  v 
-I'innd  at  ,-un-«  t  from  the  varimi-  In  MI-I  -  t->  -it  and  chat  to- 
•_:•  :!,'.'•  a!'ont  tin'  event-  of  the  dav  "|-  th"-.-  tn'c  -n!>]'"t-  of 
u:. . \  •:'-•;!  :nti-ri--t  in  -u--h  eirde-,.  1;  i-  a  -ci  in-  t"r  tin-  ;v!i-t. 
1'.  ••  :i  !•  mail-  l.a-  her  ,-hort  -!oo]  and  In  r  ^m\\  ing  daiiL'hte."  hv 
•  !',  v.  ho,  \\  hile  hi-r  mother  cha!-  and  -m»ki  -  \\  ith  radi;mt 
f  i'  •  ,  •  :i  i  j.  !•••.-  !.•  r  nil;  :!•!••  hand-  in  con\  ert  ing  her  pan  nt '-  \s  o«.!lv 
•.'  !.  -  ::;'o  a  -•  i  !•  -  of  plait-  and  ringlet-.  'I  In'  i  Idcf  lil"a!< - 
p  i:  '•'.•  ular!\  ,  -',M  itN-d  in  a  circle,  \,.  -in  to  ]••  cite  tin  :r  •  \]»  r\<  r>-<  -, 
i  !..•."•  r;:  j  a'Aav  hi.'-  -v.  al  lo".  -,  «r  hl.e  ladn--  (  !-.  -,\  In  n  :  ••in' 
'4  i!  l.o',\  h,  r  .  o\\  h  .-  -'oi.t..  d  i_'i\  inj  iniik;  another  how  '"ell 


r.vKTiF.s. 

-!:e  lias  .HO  Id  litT  milk  to  the  white  man  ;  another  of  what  hap- 
|K'iietl  in  the  field  while  she  was  hoeing  ;  another  how  her  ma.s- 
tcr  has  not  yet  returned  i'roni  the  capital,  whither  In-  has  gone 
ID  -ell  grail!-"  MI-  does  ni)t  sav  that  thev  invade  the  -aer.-dne-— 
of  their  neighbor's  affairs,  ur  retail  magnified  stories  of  another's 
peccadilloes;  possibly  he  wrote  charitably,  po--ib!v  he  was  im- 
jK-rfeetlv  informed,  possiblv  tho-e  tilings  were  said  in  an  under- 
tone, and  possibly  Zander  i-  an  aeeoinplishment  of  civilisation; 
all  things  are  possihle. 

lint  the  weaker  sex  eannot  boast  a  monopoly  oi'  vamtv  or 
social  gossip  in  I'nvamwe/i  anv  more  than  thev  can  cl.-ewhere. 
The  most  elaborate  impersonation  of  eivili/ed  foppishness,  who-e 
nnetnotis  locks  and  waxened  labial  down  have  taxed  the  skill 
of  masters  in  the  tonsorial  art,  would  crind  his  teeth  in  envv  at 
the  si^ht  of  one  of  those  tall  dusky  odoriferous  irnl hints  of  I'n- 
yamwe/i  tossing  his  proud  head,  adorned  with  a  fringe  of  jettv 
\voollv  ringlets.  And  everv  village  has  its  jtublic  room  \\hieli 
corresponds  to  the  popular  club-rooms  of  nearer  regions,  ;i  >nr\ 
of  gentlemen's  "gossip  institute/'  where  "things  in  general  " 
are  discussed  with  startling  acumen,  as  men  are  wont  to  di-en-- 
"  thinirs  in  general''  in  eivili/ed  communities.  l)urinur  idle 
times,  and  it  is  seldom  there1  are  bu-v  times,  thev  >moke  (what 
would  a  clnb-room  be  without  smoke  V|  and  .-it  141  their  heel-- 
thev  have  not  learned  the  art  of  putting  them  above  their  lira-Is 
vet:  eivili/ation  will  modify  their  u-e  of  the-e  member- — -th'-v 
sit  on  their  heels  now  and  smoke  in'  idle  times,  and  di-eti-<  the 
same  matters  perhaps  a-  have  oeeujiied  their  wives  aiid  dau-rh- 
ter-.  \\hile  they  talk  one  sharpens  his  spear-head,  ano'her 
make- an  axe-helve,  or  decorates  hi-  sword.  Thev  talk  jiolii-es, 
ni'-n  would  die  if  thev  didn't,  and  the  dailv  news:  that  t""  i- 
manlv,  lint  the  witness  dins  not  hint  that  thev  -o  l'u-  \\t\\  t 
t !ie:n-e! ves  a-  to  descant  on  the  improprieties  ot  \h-~.  tin-,  or 
Mi-s  that,  or  chuckle  over  the  misfortune-;  of  Neighbor  ?-onie- 
bodv.  Civilization  seems  to  have  a  nionopolv  of  thai  -ort  «.f 
thing. 

The  home  liii'  of  these  people  i-  to  be  found  in  ti;e  teinb»». 
Amonn-  the  |»oorer  tribe-;  this  dwelling  i-  onlv  a  -tack  of  -traw. 
but  the  better -ort  of  tembe  has  large  projecting  eaves  snp|iorted 
by  uprights.  "  Having  no  limestone,  the  people  ornament  ih* 


572  HOMK  I.IKK  IN  I-NYAMWK/.I. 

inner  nn«l  outer  walls  of  these  aUnlts  with  long  lines  of  ovals, 
for  nut  1  l»v  pressing  tin*  tips  of  tin*  fingers,  after  dipping  them 
into  a-h<  --.  ami  water  for  whitewash,  and  into  ml  clav  or  Mark 
mud  for  variety  of  color.  With  this  primitive1  material  tlu-v 
sometime-,  a!-o,  attempt  rude  imitations  of  nature — of  human 
U-in_r-i  an«l  .-crjH-nts.  Mude  ear  vi  tig  is  also  attempted  on  tin' 
ma.— ive  p.i-ts  at  the  entrance  of  the  villages.  Within,  the 
principal  article,  which  l>y  its  remarkable  dimensions  attract.- 
attention,  i-  the  Ixd-tead.  This  essential  of  familv  life  consi-t- 
of  pe(  led  tn  e-branehe-,  silp|M)rtetl  bv  forked  sticks,  provided 
with  a  I'l-dilin^  of  mats  and  cowhide,  and  occupies  the  greater 
portion  of  th<-  room.  Tlicre  is  a  triangle  of  clav  cones  forming 
a  h'-urth  ;  tin-  i-  gi'iirnilly  placed  nearly  opposite  the  «liH»r.  <  >i 
oiher  thinijs,  there  arc  corn-liins,  gi>ur;ls,  l»and-l>o\f.-.,  earthen 
jMit«,  hn^e  ladies,  pipe-,  irra--.  mats,  grimling-stoius,  and  hani:- 
.:i_r  mi  a  bnineluni;  tree-trunk,  standing  in  one  corner,  mav  In- 
.-i -1:1  the  arm-  < >t  the  men." 

Tin-  tamilv  (lining-hall,  >o  [iloasantly  a--ociated  \\itli  th- 
vi-ion-  \\hich  float  around  tin-  tr.iveller,  is  not  an  in.-titution  of 
I 'nvamwe/i.  There  i-  hardly  a  better  index  of  .-oeial  ndvaner- 
nit  nt  than  is  fiinii-he<l  in  the  manner  of  eating.  In  I'nvam- 
\ve/i  the  malts  and  females  do  not  <-at  together;  even  the  lx»vs 
di-ilain  to  be  -.en  .-it tin::  :it  meat  with  their  mother-.  The 
:nen  gem-rallv  take  their  I«HK!  in  their  nan/a,  or  "club-room."' 
Tliev  are  lieitep  --iti-lied  il'  thev  have  t\\n  meal-  a  dav,  but  they 
are  fre. iii'  ni  ]\-  neei — itated  to  be  content  with  one,  and  emplov 
the  interim  between  meal-,  <>r  between  r-leep  and  HMM],  in  chew- 
inur  tobacc-o  \\hen  lhe\  have  it,  and  in  the  e-  enl  of  it-  failure 
r'-ort  ;ii'_r  1"  e'av  for  the  iie.-e--ar\-  e\erci-e  of  their  jau-.  I1'"!1 
thi-  |i'irp"-e  the\-  -e!e.  t  tli.-  elav  of  ant-hi!!-,  \\hieh  the\  eall 

"-•Ae.   t      lal'lll."  1    ill-      ela\  -•   !ie\Vlle_r,    indeed,    I-      a      Cll-tom      (jlllte 

L'en,rall\-  pf-vali  nt  '>n  lio'h  coa-l-  of  ,\!n<a.  'I  he  c-lav  (plid 
"take,  th.-  plae.-  of  the  ma-tie  of  (  'hio-,  the  Kat  of  Yemen,  the 
1-  t. •!  and  toa-l.d  -rain  «-!'  India  and  the  farther  Ka-t.and  the 
a-h-  -  '  >\  I  lie  *-.  'inai  i  «•<  Mint  rv. 

\-  \\ .    mi.'ht  «AjM-et.  the  Wanvamwe/i  are  not   free  fr<iin  tho-e 
prij'idiee-     in    t!i--    matt«  r    "t    !•  ••  «l     whieh    are    -o    grlierallv    di-- 
i.i\.r--l    a:ii"M/    -a\a."-;    but     their    prejudice    ha-    imt    U-en  re 
dii' •  d    t"    a    -.-tern,  a-    amount    the    tribe-    of   central     Africa. 


THE    FOOD    IN    UN'YAMWKZf. 

Before  their  closer  intereourMc  willi  the  A  nibs  they  kept  j>oultry, 
but  like  the  (Jallas  and  the  Somali,  who  look  on  the  fowl  :LH  a 
kind  of  vulture,  they  would  not  cat  it.  Kven  in  the  present 
day  they  retain  their  prejudice  for  eggs.  Some  will  devour 
unimals  that  have  died  of  disease,  and  carrion,  the  Mesh  of  lions 
and  leopards,  elephants  and  rhinoceroses,  as>es,  wild  cats  and 
rats,  beetles  und  white  ants ;  while  others  refuse  to  touch  miit- 
ti>n  or  clean  water-fowl,  declaring  it  is  not  their  custom.  Thev 
seldom  cat  meat  ;  their  ordinary  diet  consists  of  the  messes 
common  in  central  Africa,  a  sort  of  jx>rridge  made  from  flour 
of  matama — the  IFoleus  sorghum,  or  Arabic  dourra.  This  i> 
accompanied  with  leaves  of  the  garden  plants,  such  as  the;  bean 
and  cucumber,  boiled  and  mashed  up.  When  this  humble  meal 
is  cooked  the  gentlemen  (?)  assemble  around  the  pot  and  pro- 
ceed to  the  delightful  duty  of  cramming  themselves,  in  which 
exercise  the  only  implement  employed  is  nature's  ladle.  In  the 
season  for  it,  these  mush-fed  children  luxuriate  on  honev  and 
sour  milk,  but  no  matter  what  they  eat  or  how  much,  the 
Wanyamwezi  never  own  repletion  until  they  have  "sat  on 
pombe"or,  in  other  words,  until  they  are  pretty  thoroughly 
intoxicated. 

There  is  very  little  community  of  interest,  and  apparcntlv 
a  great  lack  of  family  affection  in  these  tribes.  The  husband 
when  returning  from  the  coast  laden  with  cloth  will  refu.-e  a 
single  shukkah  to  his  wife,  and  the  wife  succeeding  to  an  in- 
heritance will  abandon  her  hu-band  to  starvation.  The  man 
takes  charge  of  the  cattle,  slice]),  gnats,  and  poultrv  ;  the  woman 
has  control  of  the  vegetables  and  grain.  It  seems  a  little  re- 
markable we  observe  in  savage  life,  in  rude  reali/ation,  so  manv 
of  the  pet  projects  of  certain  noisv  would-be  leaders  of  an  ad- 
vanced civilization.  It  is  hardlv  a  <|Ue-ti.>n  whether  it  i-  pr<>- 
irress  or  retrogression  that  mu>t  be  relied  on  to  lestore  the 
balance  between  the  sexes  and  grant  to  woman  the  disenthrai- 
inent  in  which  she  may  call  what  i>  hers,  her  own.  It  i-  a 
pity  that  there  are  so  many  who  are  forward  to  >et  a>ide  \\\t 
assertion  that  dependence  i<  the  charm  of  woman  and  her  title 
to  all  things.  It  is  to  be  lamented  that  so  much  is  said  about 
the  distinctive  rights  and  obligations  of  the  sexes.  It  oti^ht  to 
be  remembered  that  the  true  happiness  of  man  and  woman  i? 
31 


574  I.nVK    AND    LAW. 

in  their  identity,  ami  it  should  not  IK?  forgotten  that  there  is 
nothing  that  hinders  a  coalescence  of  hearts  more  effectually 
than  a  clamorous  ;i»ertion  of  right-.  The  world  will  rue  the 
Jav  which  adopt-  a  c«xle  delining  the  relative  dignitv  of  man 
and  woman.  Love  is  not  unlawful,  but  legislation  is  the  death 
of  it.  Then-  an-  rights  in  love,  but  no  knowledge  of  them. 
Tin-  spontaneity  of  all  it.-  offerings  and  concessions  is  their 
beaut v  and  bli.vifuhiess.  Distinctions;  patroni/c' disoird;  whcru 
'.he;v  are  Umndaries  there  -uv  conflicts;  then- cannot  be  a  line 
drau  n  Ix'tween  man  and  woman  which  doe-  not  -ever  the  ma^ic 
ln>nd  of  their  union.  \\  ive-.  and  mothers  and  daughters  and 
-i-teri  cannot  allbrtl  to  have  their  guardianship  tran-lerml  1'roiu 
love  to  law.  The  .-mi  of  human  happiness  will  have  j>a»ed  its 
meridian,  and  a  |K>lished  barlnirism,  that  dotage  of  civili/ation, 
will  l>e  coining  on,  when  human  fbllv  allows  checks  and  balances 
to  take  the  plan-  of  free-aetiug  love  in  the  relation-  of  hn.-band 
and  wife.  \\"e  mii-t  not  Ibrget  that  the  j»eeiiliar  glorv  of  civili- 
/ation  i-  in  that  beautiful  and  jovoii-  identitv  of  the  sexes 
\vliieh  find.-  it.-  prettiest  tvpe  in  the  vine-entwined  oak. 

The  \Vanvamwe/i  have  won  tor  themselves  tjiiite  a  reputation 
liv  their  commercial  indii-ti-v.  '1  hev  are  the  proti-x-ional  j»or- 
ti-rs  of  Ka.-l  Afriea.  l-'roni  davs  immemorial  thev  have  monopo- 

./••]  the  <-aiT\  iiiir  bn -i ne--.  Thev  are  ever\  tiling  to  the  traveller, 
liiev  take  the  plaee  ot  (Blinds,  hoi'-e-,  inillis,  and  a— <•-.  1  he\ 

.re  indi-peu-able  to  tlie  trader-  and  traveller-.  They  are  e,  n- 
,  '-allv  tbnn>l  in  tlie  varioM-  eoa-t  village-  waitim:  to  l>e  hired  lor 
ioii_r  joiirii'-v-.  "  Tlie.-e  are  the  jx-ople  whom  we  have  -een 
ani"ii4  tin-  hill-  of  Ita\va,  in  the  |I  u'e-t-  of  Liinda.  on  the  bank.- 

•  t'  the  Lnalaba,  in  the  wild-  ot'  Manvitetna,  on  the  banks  ot'  ali 
;!e-  lake-  —  \\  ho  are  tbimd  in  the  mountains  ot'  Karangwah,  on 
:!i«-  j.lain-  ol'  I  \  in/a,  on  the  barren  plati-au  ot  I  ^"j.",  in  the 
j>.irl.  l:it,<l-  ot'  I  '  KMIIOHJO,  in  tin-  -\\amp-  «•)'  I  >eguhha,  in  th/ 
cl-lil'--  -.;  1 '-."/ara.  in  the  wilderne— ^  ol  1  beiia.  atnon  f  the  pa  — 
-  o|'  tlie  \\atnta,  trudj-iiiu'  aloin/  lh« 
i'l  :n  -lave-tr:'.din;j  K  ilua.  e\ .  r\  \\  h.  re 


i  n.       In    e.iravan-    tic  \    are   do<  ile   und    !r:utaiiie,  01: 


rNYAXYEMHK    PROVINCE.  576 

tnuling  expeditions  of  their  own  they  are  keen  and  clever;  in 
'..heir  villagi-s  they  are  a  merry-making  set.  As  Iluga  Knga 
or  forest  men,  the  \Vanyain \ve/.i  are  unscrupulous  ami  hold  ;  in 
ITkonouiro  and  I'kawendi  they  are  hunters  ;  in  I '-tiknma  they 

»  J 

are  drovers  and  iron-smelters;  in  I,mida  thev  are  energetic 
searehers  for  ivory;  on  the  coast  they  arc  a  wondering,  awe- 
struck people." 

These  are  the  people  in  whose  middle  province  Mr.  Stanley 
took  up  hi«  quarters  the  '21st  of  .June,  1S71.  *' I'nyanyemlje 
is  tlu1  great  Bandar!  or  meeting-place  of  merchant-,  and  point 
of  departure  for  caravans,  which  thence  radiate  into  the  interior 
of  central  iutertropieal  Africa.  Here  the  Aral)  merchant  from 
Zanzibar  meets  his  compatriot  returning  from  the  Tanganvika 
lake  and  from  I'ruwwa.  Northwards,  well-travelled  lines  di- 
verge to  the  Nyan/a  lake,  and  the  powerful  kingdoms  of  ICara- 
gwah,  Uganda,  and  Unvoro;  from  the  south,  I'mri  and  I'bena, 
I'sanga  and  t'senga,  send  their  ivorv  and  slaves;  and  I'rom  the 
southwest,  the  Rukwa  Water,  K'hokoro,  I Ti pa,  and  Marungu 
must  barter  their  valuables  for  cotton,  wires,  and  bead.-." 

"This  province  was  colonized,"  according  t<>  Burton,  "about 
1852,  when  the  Arabs,  who  had  been  settled  some,  vears  in  a 
district  of  l/.-uknma,  having  become  involved  in  one  of  the 
native  wars  were  compelled  to  change  their  home.  Snav  bin 
Amir  and  Mnsa  Mzuri,  the  Indian,  settled  at  Kazeh,  then  a 
desert;  built  houses,  sunk  wells,  and  converted  it  into  a  popu- 
lous place." 

It  is  well  to  remark,  that  the  reader  mav  not  be  confused  bv 
the  names  which  >eein  to  be  usc'd  interchansjeablv  with  I'nvan- 
yemhe,  that  thi-  district  i-  not  j>roperlv  a  town,  but  a  di-trict 
co:itaini!rj;  a  number  of  vilIaiTes  all  verv  near  each  other,  wherp 
the  Arab-  have  their  uTeat  tembe,  surrounded  bv  the  humbler 
abodes  of  their  servant-  and  dependents,  and  lead  lives  of 
eomlort  and  even  -picador,  and  take  <^reat  pride  in  welcoming 
travellers  with  a.-toni>hing  displav.  \\hcn  Mr.  Stanlev  came 
on  the  ground  he  wa-  received  with  great  cordialitv  bv  Savd 
bin  Salim,  whom  favoi-in^  tin-tune  had  t'avoretl.  -nrv  the  time  of 
Burton  and  Speke's  vi-it,  from  the  station  of  servant  to  wealth 
and  prominence.  Sayd  bin  Salim  had  hi-  spaciuii-  ttiabe  iu 
Kwikuru,  the  capital  village  of  the  province. 


576  STANLEY'S  HOUSE. 

As  the  visitor  walked  beside  the  governor  toward  Kwikuru  ho 
**  received  a  noiseless  ovation."  The  NVanyamwezi  papi/i  were 
out  by  hundreds,  and  the  warriors  of  o!tl  Mka-iwa  hovered 
almtit  their  chief;  the  naked,  dn-kv  children  standing  l>rtwivn 
their  parent-'  Icj--,  even  infants  .-Itin^  o\t  :•  ihfir  mother.-'  hacks, 
all  paid  tin-  tribute  due  to  his  eolor  in  one  ^rand  coneentnited 
Mare.  Having  Iwen  hospitably  refre-hed  with  a  breakfast  which 
w<-nt  as  far  as  anv  breakfast  emild  have  done  toward*  making 
him  f»:-_'et  that  he  was  in  the  wilds  of  Africa,  and  (jnit<-  a  con- 
versaticn  with  the  lordlv  Savd,  he  was  escorted  1>\  that  dit_rtii- 
tarv  t-i  Kwihani,  where  his  h<»tise  had  IM-CII  provided,  (iathered 
about  the  dot tr  of  the  teinU4  he  found  the  men  of  his  expedition. 
'I  liev  had  stackeil  their  halts,  and  piled  their  Ixixes,  and  tlie 
ineinht  rs  of  the  ditVerent  canivaiis  were  n-in^  their  tonimes  with 
niarvi-llotis  eneri;v,  exchanging  with  each  other  the  incidents  of 
tln'ir  jonrnev. 

S)ine  delav  is  alwavs  e.\|>erted  at  1'nyanveiiiln1,  and  port.-r^, 
whether  hired  upon  the  coa-t  or  on  Tanganyika  lake,  ai'e  a<  - 
cnstonui]  to  di~]M-r~e  there,  and  a  IVe-h  <jaiiLr  tnn-t  lie  collected. 
Mr.  Stanley's  h'l^t  duty,  therefore,  \\  a<  to  n-eci\-e  the  report,-  of 
the*  leader.-  of  In-  caravan-,  and  l>estuw  sueli  reward-  or  make 
-Meh  payment-  as  iM-ea-ion  required,  and  the  croud  -ca tiered 
and  hit  him  witli  hi-  little  hand  of  special  followers  to  take 
jH..-i-..-i()ii  dt'  hi^  new  ijiiarter-,  which  he  ileclare-  wa-  a  ";no-t 
eiiiiifi'i'talile  place."  Then*  were  <|iiart«T-  for  hi-  nien  and  lor 
hini-elf;  sitting-nKiin,  l)ed-ro<iin,  bath-riHiin,  ef»ok-hon<e,  -lore- 
hoii-e.  pi  i-on,  etc.,  etc.  He  had  hardlv  accotnpli-he<l  the  di-- 
jMt-iiion  of  hi-  ^ood-  in  -pace-  d.-.-i^ii' d  for  them,  a:.d  paid  oil' 
hi-  carrier-,  and  lie^iin  to  n-ali/e  that  he  ini_rlil  under  propi-r 
circtnn-taii'-i-  havi-  an  appetite,  \\hen  in  came  -cveral  -lave-  in 
«ii'><-i---ion,  "  IK  arin_r  lra\'-,  lull  of  -j-ood  ihin^-  frmii  the  Aral'-: 
tir>t .  an  enormoii-  .|;-h  of  rie.',  \\  ith  a  l>o\\  If'u!  of  .-urried  ehieken  ; 
niiot  her  with  a  do/en  hu^e  wheat  en  c:d\e-,  aiioth-  r  \\  ith  a  j  >!ate- 
t-il  oi  B[!iiiktng  hot  cruller-,  another  with  p:'.pa".-.  another  \\ith 
porne/raiiate-  and  leimni- ;  all' r  thi-e  came  men  driving  five 
fat  h'imp  liael,.-i|  o\. n,  ei_-ht  -h'-.-p,  and  (•  -n  u'oat-,  and  anotln-r 
man  <  Mine  \\ith  a  do/en  chicke^-.  and  a  do/i-n  1 1-.  h  ••_••/"."  No 
wo^'b  r  he  ua-  taken  \>\  -t«.rm.  \\ith  ^ndi  real,  pracfi'iil,  nolile 
H)iirt'--y,  -IP  h  mtiniliecnt  hi^pitality  ;  and  \\e  are  prepartd  to 


TIIK    AHA  US   OF    TAI'.OKA.  ,077 

accredit  his  assurance,  that  his  people  were  its  nm<  h  delighted 
as  hiniM-lf  at  tin?  prodigal  plenitude  visible  on  his  table,  ami  in 
his  yard.  A  slaughtered  ox  and  a  least  wound  up  the  ceremony 
of  settlement,  and  all  hands  turned  in  to  sweeter  n-^t  than  they 
had  known  for  many  days. 

The  next  dav  the  Aral)  magnates  from  Talxtra  came  on  a 
formal  visit.  Tabora  is  the  place  mentioned  bv  Captain  Ikirtou 
as  Ka/eh,  the  fust  Arab  settlement  in  L'nyanycmbe.  It  is  the 
principal  settlement  in  the  country.  "It  contains/' according 
to  Mr.  Stanley's  estimate,  "  over  a  thousand  huts  and  tembes, 
and  one  may  safely  estimate  the  population,  Arabs,  Wangwana 
and  natives,  at  five  thousand  people.''  Between  Tabora  and 
Kwihara,  where  Mr.  Stanley  had  his  quarters,  rise  two  rugged 
hill-ridges,  separated  from  each  other  by  a  low  t-aildle,  over  the 
top  of  which  Tabora  is  always  visible  from  Kwihara. 

It  is  astonishing  what  luxury  is  conveyed  into  the  heart  of 
Africa  by  these  Arab  merchant  princes.  The  fertile  plain  al  out 
their  villages,  kept  in  the  highest  .state  of  cultivation,  yields 
marvellous  abundance  and  endle.-s  varie.v  of  vegetables,  and 
supports  vast  herds  of  cattle,  and  sheep  and  goats  innumerable  ; 
while  just  about  the  tembes  the  o.'unge,  lemon,  papaws  and 
mangoes  mav  be  seen  thriving  finely.  Add  to  these  the  tea, 
eo flee,  sugar,  spices,  jellies,  curries,  wine,  brandv,  biscuits,  sar- 
dines, salmon,  and  such  fine  cloths  a.s  they  need  for  their  own 
use,  brought  from  the  coast  everv  vear  bv  their  slaves;  associate 
the>e  with  a  wealth  of  Persian  carpets,  most  luxurious  bedding, 
complete  services  of  silver  lor  tea  and  coffee,  with  magnificently 
carved  dishes  of  tinned  copper  and  brass  lavers  ;  and  we  have  a 
catalogue  out  of'  which  our  imagination  produces  picture-  of 
luxurv  that,  amid  the  wildness  and  rudcne-s  of  that  barbarous 
land,  seem  more  like  the  magician's  work  than  tangible  realitie>, 
which  await  the  worn-out  traveller  aero--  -i\  hundred  miles  of 
plains  and  mountains  and  rivers  and  >wamps,  where  a  >ucce--.-:<'.n 
of  naked,  staring,  menacing  savages  throng  the  path  in  \\ond»v 
at  a  white  face. 

The  representatives  of  this  splendid  living,  who  had  called  to 
pav  their  respects  to  Mr.  Stanley,  were  the  donor-  of'  the  gin- 
which  had  surprised  him  on  the  dav  before,  and  had  tliev  been 
loss  prepo-sessing  than  they  were,  their  kindness,  would  have 


578  THi:    WAU-i'LOUD. 

Uuiinl  liini  to  think  them  pleasant  gentlemen  ;  hut  they  wore  a 
fiu»',  handsome  ln>dy  of  men.  Conspicuous  among  them  wa.-* 
"Savd  bin  Sail  MI,  tin1  governor  ot  the  colony,  Sheikh  hin  Na>ih, 
hi*  Higlinr.-.-  of  ZanzilKir'g  consul  at  Karangwa  ;  then  Kami-* 
hin  Abdullah,  ami  vonng  Amniin  bin  Mu&soud  ;  haml.-ome  ami 
courageous  Solid,  tin-  .>ou  ol'  Sayil  hin  Majid  ;  tin  n  Thani  hin 
AUlullah  ;  mxt  MIIS.-OIK!  hin  AUlullah  ami  his  con-in,  Abdullah 
b'n  Mn— oud ;  then  old  Snliinan  J)o\v:i  Sayil  hin  Sayf and  tin-  ol«l 
liftman  ofTahora — Sultan  hin  Ali."  When  all  tin-  formalities 
<>;' ^n-ctiiii;  an»l  the  congrutulutioiLs  and  protestations  ami  invita- 
tion." \vrre  ov't-r,  th'--i'  ih.-tin^ui.slu'd  inotlels  nf  Aral>  «-ti»jurn«- 
iN-parUtl,  cuiTv:n;r  an  rn^a^i-nn-nt  \\ith  Mr.  Stanley  li>r  \\:^ 
j>.-f-fiii-(>  with  tip  in  tlmv  davs  fm in  tlatc. 

'1  In-  ki miners  of  thf-c  \\i-althv  vi-itor-  ha«l  jiavivl  the  wav, 
intentionallv  or  otherwis*1,  lor  involving  the  ll<  raM  lv\j>«'<l;'iiiu 
in  a  wav  which  threateuetl  it  with  j^n-at  (l;-a~t<-r.  \\  In-n  Mr. 
Stanley  repaired  {>>  Tahoru,  mfoiilin^  to  hi-  e'l^a^'-Mn-iii,  hr 
fotni'l  himself  just  in  time  to  he  )>n-riii  at  a  i.rra\c  mum:!  <il' 
war,  in  whieh  he  W;LS  invited  t(»  take  a  -cat  with  Scllm,  hi^  A  rah 
interpreter,  hv  hi-  side. 

The  trotihle  wa-  with  a  chief  called  Minimlm,  \\lio  it  -e^'iii" 
had  for  •M-veral  vear->  he«-ii  in  a  >tate  ()|'  chronic  dix-ontent  with 
the  |»i)licic.s  ot'  the  ncighljorin^  «-hie!-.  Formerly  a  ju^a/i  \'<>r 
an  Arah,  he  had  m»\v  a--unicd  re^al  \>» \\ei-,  with  tin-  n-ual  knack 
of  uni'OHM'ionahle  ra-^als  who  cari*  not  hv  what  ni'-ans  thcv  ,~tc|» 
into  authority.  When  thrchief  of  I 'yoweh  died,  this  hold  man, 
who  wa>  at  the  ln:id  ot'  a  ^an^  of  rohljcrs  infotin^  the  tlii'c-t- 
ot  \\il\ankiini,  .-nddi'iilv  entiTei]  I  voweh  and  cmi-t itut<  d  hnn- 
M-!|  !oid  paramount  |i\-  tore.',  and  hv  a  t'«-\v  i-a!-  of  enterpri-e 
which  he  performed  to  the  enrichment  ,,|'  i!i.,~c  \\h<>  rcco_Mii/'-d 
hi^  anthorilv,  -  •  «:i  eMahli-hed  hnn-clf  lirmlv  in  hi-  |>o-ili'in. 
I-'I.IMI  t  hi-  1 1  -_'-:i :;::i  j  h.-  h.id  .-irrii-d  destructive  \\  ar  o\-i-r  thrci- 
'!•_':<•-  nf  la!  ;"idc,  .i:id  a*  I'-n^th  ciiiici-i\  in_r  a  une\  ancc  :i^.im-t 
M '.a-  '.  i,  i  !i  .  .  i,:'  '}i"  \\  .in.  am  we/i,  demanded  "I  the  Araln 
ih.i'  f||.--.  «.'hn  t!  !  -M-l-iin  h  in  a_-ain-t  their  a!K  .  Thi-  thev  re 
1'i-e,  1  t. ,  .  |u  .1  ,]  M  n  ati  i  ho  h  id  in  re-cut  UK  nt  ri'»o!v«-d  that  no 
\  i •  i!  i  <  •  ir  \\  :\'\  >!io!i!d  IM--  i  lii  •  iii'/h  h;-  ciiiint  rv  to  I  pji  ;  and  not 
».i':  ti'il  •.-,  i'h  ihi-  ni'-M.-ii-i- nf  the  foreigner-,  had  M"W  proclaimed 
o|i-  u  ".it  on  !  !,•  MI  and  r  !i-'  \\  am  amu  iv.i  I«i^ethi  r.  N\  e  will  not 


TIIK    'I.IMA1K    OF    L'NYANYKMHK.  '' •' 

detain  the  reader  with  the  proceedings  of  the  council :  it  is  enough 
that  it  was  determined  to  march  against  this  impertinent  chief 
and  annihilate  him  at  once.  And  Mr.  Stanley,  partly  Ix-cause. 
lie  saw  no  other  wav  of  reaching  I  jiji  ami  relieving  I)r.  Living- 
stone, and  partlv  because  he  felt  under  obligation  to  assist  those 
who  had  shown  him  such  attentions,  consented  to  join  them  ii 
the  enterprise. 

In  the  interval  of  the  preparations  for  this  war,  Mr.  Stanley 
w:is  attacked  bv  that  subtle  enemv  of  the  white  man,  which 
must  be  confronted  in  everv  part  of  Africa.  The  lever  raged, 
and  in  the  davs  of  delirium  he  traversed  a^am  the  varied  scenes 
of  the  eventful  past.  He  had  come  to  I'nyanvembe  about  the 
beginning  of  summer.  It  is  then  that  the  east  wind,  the  only 
wind  so  ill  that  it  blows  nohodv  any  good  in  anv  laud,  comes 
sweeping  over  the  eountrv,  "  refrigerated  bv  the  damp  alluvial 
vallevs  of  the  first  region,  and  the  tree-clad  peaks,  and  .-wampv 
plains  of  Usagara,  with  a  free/ing  cold  in  an  atmosphere  properlv 
tepid.  These  unnatural  combination-  of  extremes,  can-ing  sudden 
chills  when  the  skin  perspires,  bring  on  inevitable  di-ea-(  .  The-.- 
gales  are  mo-:  violent  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  -ea-on,  imm--- 
diately  after  th,1  cessation  of  the  rain-,  and  a-  the  summer  ad- 
vances the  transition  diseases  disappear  and  the  climate  become- 
more  agreeable."  Mr.  Stanley  arrived  just  in  the  trying  period; 
though  siiH'erin^  -everelv,  the  torture  wa-  of  short  duration,  and 
he  tell-  u-  that  o.i  the  tenth  dav  after  hi-  fir-t  illne--  he  wa-  in 
go  >  1  trim  again.  Th M  Shaw  was  down,  next  Selim.  an  1  it 
wa-  the  l2Sth  of  Jnlv  before  the-,-  were  -titli-  ieiitlv  recovered  to 


star;  o.i  -ucj  an  e:i;erpr>e  as 

Alt!i)ijii  contemplating  an  en^a'.'.''ii)"i)t  with  Mirambo,  he 
was  -t>  i  Titi  l(i:i;  that  the  allied  fnrce-  would  vain|iii-h  that  --hief 
ea-i!v  that  he  determinrd  to  ^()  n^  j;li-  a-  his  border,  prepared  t» 
co:i'iniic  hisjourney  to  l*j!ji  witi.oi!  returning  to  I  nyanyembe. 
Acfordin^lv  he  left  lTnvanvemhe  mi  ihe  iJIhh  \\iih  titiv  ni--ij, 
loaded  with  bales,  bead-  and  wire.  At  Mt'uto.  at'ier  a  thre.- 
dav-'  march,  lie  joined  the  Arab  ion-i-.  having  stored  ii;-  good-. 
The  armv,  mii-terinu  in  all  two  thoii-and  tuo  hundred  and  til'tv 
men,  advanctxl  upon  the  strongholtl  of  the  enemv.  Then  l<>!- 
lows  a  -torv  of  t'ailnre,  of  retreat,  of'  shameful  cowardi'--'  on  tin- 
part  of' those  most  deeply  interested,  and  a  lew  (jays  later  he  wa.- 


580  THI-:  T.UJI.KS  n  KM:I>. 

in  Unranveinl*1  u^am,  heartily  ilisgusutl  with  tlu»  Aral*  inrthoif 
of  warfare  :iu«l  tln-ir  idea>  of  duty  to  an  ally;  with  tin-  .-cent1 
Ix-tore  hint  of  Mi  rain  bo's  annv  surrounding  Tal»ora. 

Fti-lin^  himself  fullv  al»olved  from  all  obligations  to  hi<  Aral) 
n»¥i^hl>ors  lor  whom  In-  had  urarlv  sacrificed  hi-  life  and  tin1 
cxjxnlit nui,  Mr.  StanU'V  now  >et  al>oiit  mlUi¥tiu«;  a  new  ><  t  of 
<~imers,  ilotcnniiutl  to  start  for  t'jiji  l»v  a  route  which  promix-d 
frit-dom  from  tin-  opjxjsitiou  of  Miramlxt,  though  much  more 
indirect  than  tin-  one  he  would  have  preferred  to  take.  It  \\a> 
IM  ea-v  matter  to  -«vure  >uch  a  numl>er  of  men  a-  he  milled 
n:id--r  the  cin'limstaiKfs.  I>ut  the  d.-lav  w:^  unendiiralile,  \s  hilo 
he  t'.-ai'ed  that  the  ^reat  and  pun!  man  whom  he  had  Item  >ent 
out  to  find  and  help  might  In?  sutlrriiivj  at  I  |iji  :  therel'nre  he 
decided  to  leave  the  greater  portion  of  hi-  '_NM»U  nnder  a  <_ruard 
and  -et  out  with  a  "  living  caravan"  liv  the  Mtiithern  mute 
thr"!i_rh  northern  I  konon^o  and  I  kaweiidi.  <  "ii-picuinis 
atn-'iij  tho-e  whom  he  mustered  \'<r  tin-  march  \\ere  t\\o  men 
of  •_'!  ml  pnipi.rt inii»,  name,  1  A-mani  and  MalmiUi,  \\  ho  will  p!av 
a  ciiii-j>iciiiiu-  part  a-  \s  e  -hall  >ee. 

Hut    '_rat In  IMIIL:   a    IHKC    i-    not    all    <>f  ^ettiir^  a\\av  from  -uch 

•  piartt-r-  a-   I    u\  an\  einlic.      'I  here  arc  alwavs  htlle  dome-tic  ties 
tiirm-'d  Kv  the  -al'l'-  at tt-iidaiil-    »i    a    traveller    in    such  quarters 
wliicii    are    ii.»t    frn-ndlv  t"   prmnpt    d-  j-ariure-.      \\heii    <m    the 
iii»rnm_f    "t"  tin-    L'(|!h    ot'  Septeml>«  r   the  caravan  wa-  mnstere<l 

•  •'it-id--  ••('  l!ie    ti-ml»e,  under  Ma_r-  and    -tn-amer-  -o  pmudix    un- 
furi'd.  and  all  the  !..ad-  wen-  readv  t"  \»-  lil'ted.  <'iie  «\  the  prin- 
cipal    memher-    <•)'    the    expedition    \\a-    mi--iir_r.      \\hcre    \\a- 
1'  .-niiaN  '.'      ^\'hert•    -hould    he    l»e   -where  would   one   expect    to 
find    ~u   !i    a    <_r:dlant     at     -uch    a    time'.'      "  I'mmUlv    \\a-*     toitml 
u-i-piii'/  in  tli"  arm-  "('  hi-    I)e]ilah." 

\\'.-  i-tnift  |-'«jii:i-e  th'-  reader,  \\hi--<-  real  concern  i-  to  know 
ho  ,\  :i!id  \\  IP  li  and  \\  here  tlli<  e\  [x-dit  ion  -Uci'eedeil  III  lirill'Jini; 

d  >n -o  la!  urn  u  i  id  timelv  aid  t"  I  'r.  Livin^-loni1.  to  follow  him  n  it  h 
the  d-  tail'  "('  tiii-  '|o!irne\  of"  -o  miieh  in!'  r-  -t  in  I  lie  1 1  ]••••!'  Mr. 
Sr.m!'\.  I  !.' •  da\  -  \\ere  full  .,)'  |>ettv  complaint-  lro:n  a  lew 
•••'i  'nil!-  :  •-.  and  a!  rno-t  i-\  i-rv  m. 'lit  i|e-e(  t  ion-  o-i-itrred.  >iia\v 
v.  i  -  m  on  t  roii!  ,]••  t  h.m  a  •  I  •/•  n  lialu--- .  and  nit  imat>-!  v  Miii-n  ili-ij 

IM  p:oVo|.I!l/  111-  e||  I  ploVef  t  o  -«-|  |<  i  1 1  :  I  M  1  •:  I'  1,  to  I  1 1  \  a  1 1  \  e|||  1  .••, 
1  I  >.:  alt«  I'  d  l\  '.\  '  I •••  t  lie  -aim-  experience-  ;  |,,|-,-t  a!l«T  J.  .fe-t  \\  ,\f 


ItOYAL    VISITORS    KNTKHTAINKI). 

passed  ;  tlic  vil labors  were  all  cautious;  only  news  of  war,  war! 
filled  the  country.  The  terror  of  Miraml>o  was  on  tin-  whole 
region.  Kasegera  wa.s  passed  just  as  a  welcome  wa.s  being  given 
to  a  partv  returning  from  the  eoa>t.  The  great  village  of 
lTgnnda,  I'roin  who-e  formidable  stockade  even  the  jiowerful 
Mirambo  had  withdrawn  his  i'orees  in  despair  of  taking  it,  \yaii 
Ict't  behind  them.  On  the  2d  of  October  thev  entered  the  culti- 
vated fields  of  Manvara  made  conspietions  in  the  .storv  bv  a 
scene  such  as  can  never  fade  from  the  memory  of  a  man  who  has 
anv  eve  for  the  ridiculous.  The  authorities  of  this  village  refused 
admission  to  the  travellers,  and  declined  positively  to  allow  their 
people  to  sell  them  any  food.  On  the  .'id,  Stanley  continued  to 
plv  the  chief  with  offered  presents,  having  well  learned  already 
that  no  African  chief  is  proof  against  such  beautiful  things  as  the 
white  man  can  oflcr.  When  terms  were  made,  and  the  precious 
beans  and  rice  and  matama  and  I  ndian  corn  began  to  flow  into  his 
camp,  Mr.  Stanley  arranged  to  receive  the  chiefs.  1 1  is  IVr.-ian 
carpet  and  bear  skin  were  ,-pivad  out,  and  a  bran  new  piece  of 
crimson  cloth  covered  his  bed.  lie  received  the  chief  ami  his 
associate  chieftains  at  the  gate  of  his  camp  and  escorted  them 
with  all  di^nitv  into  the  gaudy-looking  tent,  and  invited  them 
to  scat  themselves. 

The  lir-t  tiling  that  these  noble  men  did  was  to  scrutinixe  the 
owner  of  that  pavilion  intentlv,  his  face,  his  clothes,  his  entire 
pcr.-on,  and  thereupon  burst  into  uncontrollable  laughter,  accom- 
panied with  repeated  snapping  of  the  fingers.  Kverything  in 
the  tent  was  examined  with  the  >ame  intent  enrio>itv  ;  the  -i\- 
teen-shooter  particularly  elicited  a  thon-and  flatteriiiLi  ob-erva- 
tions,  and  the  tiny  revolvers  seemed  to  them  of'  superhuman 
workmanship.  As  they  passed  from  object  to  object  their 
enthusiasm  increased,  and  in  the  wildness  of'  their  delight  thev 
sei/ed  each  other's  index  tinkers  and  >crewcd  and  pulled  a-  it' 
thev  would  inevitably  dislocate  those  innocent  member-.  \\'li«  n 
the  medicine  ehe.-t  was  produced,  the  climax  of  their  admiration 
seemed  to  be  mH»hed.  They  ta.-ted  the  brandv  ;  next  came  a 
bottle  of' concentrated  ammonia,  whose  n-e  it  \va-  exj)iained  was 
f'or  snake-bites  and  headaches.  The  chief'  immediatelv  eom- 
plaincd  that  he  had  headache  and  niu-t  have  some.  Telling 
him  to  close  his  eyes,  Mr.  Stanley  suddenlv  uncorked  the  bottle 


r  1  1  K   M  KI  >  i  n  x  K. 


an 


d  proented  it  to  his  majesty's  nox- ;  the  etVeet,  he  tells  us,  was 
magical  :  he  fell  luiek  a-  it  he  W;L-  shot,  and  -ueh  contortion.-  as 
his  feat  UPS  underwent  are  indescribable.  The  chiellains  roaml 
with  laughter,  and  clap|>ed  their  hands  and  pinched  each  other 
and  -napp'-d  their  fingers  in  a  frenzy  of  merriment,  while  the 
gn-at  chief,  -low  Iv  recovering  himself,  great  teal's  rolling  down 
his  ch<-ek-  and  hi-  fa«v  tjuivering  with  laughter,  .-lowly  utter*"? 
the  word,  "  Kali  " — hot,  .-trong  or  cjuiek  medicine.  The  mod- 
ing  prv— <-d  and  the  vi-itors  left  delighted  and  fullv  impressed 
with  the  ill. -a  of  the  white  man's  greatness,  whieh  they  ••xpre-xtl 
nio-t  vehemt'Utlv,  -aving,  "Oh,  these  white  men  know  everv- 
ihing,  the  Arab-  are  dirt  compared  to  them." 

Thev  had  no\v  eoine  into  the  n-.il  game  country  of  t'nvam- 
we/i.  Thev  had  bap-lv  l.-tt  the  waving  corn-fields  of  Manvara 
when  thev  cam.-  in  -i^ht  ot'  a  herd  of  noble  /cbra.  As  they 
advanced  th'\  beheld  herd-  ot'  bullalo,  /.-bra.  giraile  and  ante- 
lope. Thev  were  on  the  bank-  ot'  the  <  iombc.  The  whole 
coiintrv  wa-  one  magnifii-ciit  park,  and  it  wa-  impo--ible  to  p- 
si-t  the  temptation  to  -pend  a  few  dav-  in  hunt ini:.  And  when 
the  da\  -  admoni-h'-d  him  "f  the  importance  ot'  continuing  the 
joi'rnev,  -D  thoroughlv  in  love  with  the  beautiful  -it-nes  and 
the  abundance  of  meat  had  In-  men  become  that  hi-  order 
to  march  w  a-  met  by  open  rebellion.  They  delegated  PH>ml>ay 
to  IM--J  that  they  inijht  -ta\  on.-  dav  longer.  liomhav  wa-  well 
-cold.-d  tor  bringing  -ueh  a  nic--a_re,  after  two  dav-  of  p--t  and 
wo  much  food.  Bombay  moved  awav  in  a  manifc-tlv  ,-ulky 
mood,  and  an  e\pre--ion  which  -,  ,-m«-d  to  -av,  "  \\"cll,  .jet  them 
to  move  voiir-«!f,  you  wicked,  hard  man  ;  1  -hall  not  help  v..u." 
That  w  hic|,  folio  A.-d  w  -iv  in  Mr.  St.anlev'-  word-  :  "  Not  with- 
-tandin,'  th'-ir  nnw  illingm-— ,  at  th<-  -,,und  -.('  the  horn  the  men 
turned  to  their  bah-  and  marched  ,,!]'.  but  in  ,!••.  p.  -ullen  -ileiice." 
Stan!'  \  p-maiiied  b.hm.l  to  drive  the  -I racier-  on.  In  about 
halt  an  h'.ur  he  -a-.v  the  caravan  come  t»  a  d- ad  halt,  the  bale- 
thrown  dov.n  and  ih.  IMI-II,  ••ii'/a-ji-d  in  airji'v  con\e|--ati"ii  and 
efi--1  :•  -1 ,  i!  :•••!,  -'a  -ji  1 1  n/  about  in  -..Toil  j  >-.  I  h<  ••'•  '.v  a-  main  !•  -t !  v 
fc<-r:o!i-  .  o!i  hand,  and  ta!-.m_'  hi-  doiib!i  barr-  1  ;/un  iVoni 

"iild.  r  he  -  1"  ted  a  do/,  n  e!,;ir."-o!  buel^h.,1,  and 
-bppi'ij  t  -.«  o  .,)  i  ],,  m  in!"  t  ij.  barr'  I-  ami  a-  I'm  -!  iiij  hi-  re\  olvers 
for  hind;,  lork,  I,.-  '\a!!.e|  '.,i  waid  toward-  t  h«-  aiijrv  men. 


A    PLOT    DISCOVERED.  5&i 

lie  noticed  them  sei/.e  their  guns  as  he  approached,  and  when 
within  alwwt  thirty  yards  of  the  groups  lit;  di^-ovcred  the  head- 
of  t\vo  men  appear  above  an  ant-hill  on  his  left  with  their  gun- 
earelestdy  pointed  toward  the  road.  Instantly  he  halted,  and 
taking  deliberate  aim  at  them,  threatenetl  to  blow  their  heads 
oH'  it  they  did  not  eome  forward  to  talk  to  him.  '1  hoe  two  in<  :i 
were  the  gigantic  Asmani  and  his  sworn  companion  Mabrnki, 
who  the  reader  will  remember  were  among  the  men  obtained  at 
rnyanyemhe.  They  were  afraid  not  to  obey  such  an  order,  .-«> 
they  came  ;  but  keeping  his  eye  on  Asmani,  Stanley  saw  him 
moving  his  fin  gel's  to  the  trigger  of  his  gun  and  bringing  hi- 
gun  to  a  "ready,"  and  was  obliged  again  to  threaten  him  with 
instant  death  if  he  did  not  put  his  gun  down.  Asmani  then 
came  on  in  a  sidelong  wav,  with  a  smirking  smile  on  his  fare 
and  the  lurid  light  of  murder  in  his  eye,  as  plainly  as  ever  such 
a  light  shone  in  the  eye  of  a  villain.  Meantime  Mabruki  sneaked 
to  his  rear,  deliberately  putting  powder  in  the  pan  of  his  musket ; 
but  wheeling  just  in  time,  Mr.  Stanley  planted  the  mu/xle  of  his 
own  trim  within  two  feet  of  the  wicked  rascal's  face,  and  com- 
manded him  to  drop  his  piece  instantly.  Then'  could  be  no 
hesitation  :  Mabruki  saw  that  and  let  it  fall,  and  instantly  went 
reeling  back  under  a  vigorous  blow  in  the  breast  from  the  niu/./lc 
of  that  which  had  been  levelled  in  his  face,  and  left  the  single 
white  man  to  confront  Asmani  again.  Asmani  wa-  of  a  more 
stubborn  spirit,  and  in  the  face  of  Stanley'.-  gun  began  lifting 
his  gun  to  his  shoulder.  It  would  have  been  his  la-t  act,  but 
ju.-t  at  the  moment  when  Stanley'.-  finger  was  coining  down  on 
the  tritju'er  <>f  his  gun  a  form  appeared  behind  Asmani,  and  a 
strong  hand  swept  his  gun  aside  with  an  impatient,  nervous 
movement,  and  the  voice  of  Mabruki  Speke  wa-  heard  in  horror- 
stricken  accents,  saying,  "  Man,  how  dare  yon  point  your  gun 
at  the  ma-ter  !  "  Mabruki  Speke  then  threw  himself  at  the  f>  et 
of  his  master  and  endeavored  to  ki-s  them,  and  entreated  h;- 
forgiveness.  "  It  is  all  over  no\v,"  he  -aid  ;  "  there  will  be  no 
more  quarrelling;  they  would  all  LT"  to  Tanganvika  now.  with- 
out anv  more  noise  and  in-hallah  !  "  Said  he.  "  \\  e  -hall  tind 
the  old  mn-uiiLru  ut  I  jiji."  I  hen  turnin-j,'  to  the  men  he  said, 
u  Men.  freemen,  shall  we  not'.'  Shall  we  not  ^o  to  Tanganyika 
without  any  more  trouble'.'  Tell  the  ma-ter  with  one  voice." 


584  "NO  oTHKK  WORDS." 

"Ay,  Wallah !  ay,  Wallah!  liana  Yan^o !  hanuina  manncno 
m^hii  " — \vhirh  literally  translated  is,  "  Yes,  hv  (Jod!  ves,  l>v 
(iod!  mv  master!"  "  There  an-  no  other  \vonU,"  .-aid  each 
man  in  turn.  All  the  mm  ut-rc  punluiltil  r.\ivj»t  lioinlxiv  and 
Aml.ai'i,  who  w.-rr  lln-  r»-al  K-ad*-rs  in  tin-  jil.it.  'J'hcy  Inith  n- 
vivrd  :i  Miund  liir:t>hiii^  ami  wt-n-  cla|)}>cd  in  chains  until  thrv 
ifarnti]  how  to  ;i^k  pardon,  which  tlu-v  were  not  lon^  in  doini:, 
and  the  wonted  frctiliiin  and  jieac-etnlno-  <>l  the  jiartv  was  >o»»n 
n--!oriil.  Nothing  inon-  ot'  unusual  inteix-«t  transpired  until 
ihev  nwhcf]  the  district  of  Mrera,  fuurtit'ii  days  jounu-v  Iroiu 
L'n  van  vein  be. 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 


TIM-:  M 

pjirrmrhinK  F.arh  Other  -Tin-  Spirit  of  the  Man  -"  A  Cx*»\  H.-art  "  -A-l«s 
quary  of  <  'hristian  Kindness  -  -  Africa  for  Christ  F.fli^irs  of  Mm  A  Lvswiri 
Learned  Mistake  the  Man  The  A  ml.  mead,-  A  Third  I  Mi  v.-ranc,-  AOood 
Onii-ii  N<>  Vengeance  -The  Leopard  \Veary  und  Inditlerciit  I'ainftil  I»e- 
flections  -"  Little  Metier  tlian  u  Skeleton  "  I>re;-dful  I  »i*app"iiitiii'-iit  Tim 
Good  Samaritan  Mr.  Stanley's  (  'aravan  "  Tliat  !'.".<  1  l>ay  oft  i.-t.il..  r  "  <;...»! 
News  A  Forrc.1  March  Tin-  Taniranyikii  at  l.:\~\  Tin-  Fir-t  Vi.-w  of  t!i«> 
Lake  -  Special  <  'harms  for  Stanley  -The  Approach  "  (iiMxI-Mnniiiiir,  Sir"- 
"  NS'ho  the  Mischief  are  You.'"  The  Mo-tin','  The  Conversation  -The  lU-ve- 
lation  Made  -"(io.I  Never  Failed  Him"  The  Il.-t  Medicine  —  A  Cruiso  on 
the  Laki  —  No  Outlet  Found—"  1  Must  Fini-h  my  Ta-k." 

Anoi'T  the  tinio  that  Mr.  Stanley  halted  his  caravan  in 
Mrera  Dr.  Livingstone  landed  on  the  islet  KaseiiLje,  in  Lake 
Tanganyika.  They  were  approaching  each  other.  W<-  re- 
niember  how  sadlv  the  great  traveller  turned  a\vav  \\\-^  evc.s 
from  the  river  which  lie  believed  could  in  one  short  month 
guide  him  to  the  Nile.  We  left  him  arranging  tor  hi~  r.-tnrn 
to  I'jiji,  where  he  contemplated  one  of  two  evils,  a-  the  onlv 
tiling  hopeful  which  awaited  him  there  :  cither  he  mii-t  gather 
i'ollowers  from  the  unreliable  vagabonds  who  mi^iit  be  toiind 
tloatiiiLT  about  town,  or  bo  willing  to  wait  ten  months  at  least 
until  men  could  be  sent  fro  in  the  coast.  P>nt  he  \\a<  not  dis- 
couraged :  the  spirit  of  the  man  wa.-  iudotnitable,  hi-  n-olute- 
ne>s  wa<  astonishing.  Far  advanced  in  vt-ar-,  and  ti-i-lin^  the 
weight  of  age,  the  victim  ot'  varion.-.  di-ea>'--.  >urrounded  In- 
war.-.  with  an  experience  ot'  year*  confirming  all  the  ajiprehen- 
*ions  of  dangers  and  want  and  ilisappointtnciit  whii-h  coiihl 
possiblv  arise  in  \\\<  thoughts,  he  calmlv  conteinjilated,  tir-t  re- 
tracinir  hi~  step<  at  le:u-t  >i\  hundre<l  mile-,  and  then  a  loin:  and 
perilous  circuitous  route,  lor  the  purpo.-e  ot  reaching  a^ain.  otit- 
si'le  of  the  net  of  the  ,-laver-,  the  promi-ing  thread  ot'  disenverv 
which  he  was  Ibrced  tor  the  time  to  relinquish.  It  is  absolutely 


f><fi  rown:  <»r  I:I:NI:VOI.KN(  K. 

<  •  rtain  that  nothing  could   have  -eparated   him    from   his  task 
exi-ept  death. 

\\ '••  have  alr<*adv  Ixvorue  familiar  \vitli  the  country  through 
\\lii--h  hi-  journey  to  I  jiji  lav.  The  Manytiema,  who  had 
learm-d  tin-  ditVetvnee  hetwirn  the  white  man  ami  tin-  Aral)-, 
treated  him  kindlv  :  they  had  no  quarrel  with  him:  he  had  a 
" -.mod  heart,"  thev  *aid.  Thrrc  i-  marvellous  power  in  <jood- 
iii-.--  ;  the  Ix-nevoleuer  in  human  nature  is  the  liri^hte>t  reflection 
of  I  >.  i'v  ;  Christian  kindness  is  tin*  truest  representative  <»t'  T'M 
Lrrace  of  God.  The  lives  of  men  acting  out  tho-e  generous  im- 
pul-es  implanted  liv  the  Spirit  of  God  are  mo-t  potential  rav- 
fro  in  f'alvarv.  [lonctrating  the  world,  pnli^htc'iiin^,  cheeriiiij, 
and  (initrollin^  human  heart-.  Tin-  faet  of  the  eniri!i\i"ii  i- 
thc  -a\  ni'_r  truth  of  the  a^«-  :  Lr<»°d  men  are  the  ehanne!-  <>t'  it< 
di— ic-minatinn  and  tin-  a^'ent-  of  it-  power.  It  i-  not  l>v  human 
jip>\v<—  l.ut  !iv  human  1>< m-voli-u.-.-  that  the  \\orld  i-  to  lieeonie 
the  kitijdoin  of  tli,-  Lord  and  of  hi-  <  'hri-t.  I  f  the  !i}'.-  .,(' 
I>a\"id  I J  \  ni'_r-toiie  dne».  no  more,  it  \\ill  re;i--nre  the  h'-ari-  «'t' 
men  iii  the  al>-olnte  adefjitaev  of  ( 'hri.-tiau  kindne--  to  eontrnl 
tin-  nide-t  li'irltanan-,  and  make  allies  in  nolile-t  enterpr;-i  -  of 
the  nio-t  i-_rii"r;uit  and  degraded.  I'eril-  flu-re  m:i\-  |M-  fl.r  the 
man  who  venture-  on  mi— ionarv  work  ainon-j-  -ava'je-,  hut  it' 
he  he  i  lit  >n>u_rhl  v  in  love  with  them,  -o  sineerelv  and  iinmov- 
al»lv  eo|l-i*>enit«'d  to  their  wellhre  that  lin  e.xhihilii'U-  of  depnn'it  v 
can  dimini-h  hi-  /<al,  and  ii»  ingratitude  paralv/e  In-  purpo-e, 
if  he  -e,-|c  them  :  i  -  (  'hri-t  -on-lit  the  \\or!d,  the  L.VI-  ,,f  hi-  he;»rt 
\\  il!  he  h:-  palladium  and  hi-  kind  oMiee-  Iii»  i -diets  of  authority. 
The  !;»e  \\hieh  i^  ;m  emanation  from  tin-  heart  nf  <  'hri-t  \\ill 
d'-'ifin  all  pP'judiee-  and  o\  ereome  all  re-i-tai)ee,  and  lead 
<.uf  the  latent  virtue-;  of'  tin-  ni"-t  ignorant  and  \i';«'ii-,  like 
tin-  '/entle,  |_'et)ial  ra\  -  of  the  -nn  -eatter  the  darkni -•  and  nie't 
»!:••  er-i-?  -of  earth  a  nd  -iimnion  tVom  it-  d«  ad  i  !••--.  a  \  i-rv  para- 

e  of  !  i  ;'e  and  lie:n;r  \  .  N<  \  t  to  .!>  -u~  (  hri-t  a  !•  «\ .  |'ul  human 
;•',,••;.,<!-.  \Vh'- u  all  the  ,f,ry  ha-  1-,,.  |..!d.  v.  he,,  t'.e 
]••.'••-.'<  ,  \  [/vinj-tone  -find-  I'tit  eomph-i.-.  »!,-•  l-e-t  thiii'_'"f 
:•.!!  tint  vi!!  have  \>,,-i\  -aid,  the  i  .n-ht.  -t  line-  ,  :i  the  e:mva-. 
\\ ; !  1  I  e  ?  h.-  ^  . .[-.  |-  i ,('  •  hi-.e  p.  ,i  >r  M an \  iii-ma  e:inn;l«al-,  "  f(  -/'""' 
f '»/•',.'  \\  «•  erinnot  think  "|  h ; in  !•  iiirne\  MIL'  '•  •«  ard  I  i •  ] i .  lull 
of  --'.rr-.w  and  fain,  -.•.!,;!•  tl  •  In-mMin^  victim-  "f"  AraK  cruel 


A   i.r,sm>.\   Fi:o\i   jir.ATitr.N.  587 

tios  him;;  on  his  track,  Ix'^in^  him  to  -lav  with  them  and  help 
them,  without  temlerost  emotion.  Oh,  how  Imi^  shall  it  l>e  he- 
fore  the  ( 'Imrvll  of  .Jesus  ( 'hri-t  extends  its  IdesMiiijs  to  all  the 
hcni^hted  of  earth!  Where  the  sun  has  shone,  it  may  shine; 
where  Christian  feet  have  trod,  thev  mav  tread;  \\  here  ( 'hris- 
dan  power  has  been  reco-jni/ed  and  felt,  it  mav  n*ijjn.  Africa 
mav  he  ('hrist's,  all  Christ's;  the  .-a me  gentle  atrdicv  l»v  which 
the  gospel  prevails  in  other  land-  >-  enoii'_:h  to  make  even  the 
darkest  wildernesses  of  that  land,  earlie.-t  known  and  la.-J  to  he 
redeemeil,  blossom  like  a  rose. 

As  he  joiirneved  toward  Batubarro  the  traveller'-  heart  wa- 
jjricvcd  everv  dav  hv  the  desolations  which  the  nn-crnpiiloti* 
invaders  had  made,  in  even  so  -hurt  a  time.  Tin-  -it«--  of  de- 
strovcd  villages,  panic— trieken  retii-^ee-;,  there  w:i-  nothini: 
eheei'in::,  the  dee|>eninLT  <>|ir-(>  hnirj  like' a  pall  overall  \\\>-  land- 
scapes. The  hills  were  not  inspiring  as  they  would  have  Keen 
«'\'cn  the  splendid  foliage  waving  ov<'rv where,  like  nature'.-  de- 
fiance of'  human  wrath,  could  not  seem  as  t're-h  and  'jreen  ;i-  il 
was,  to  eves  saddened  l>v  such  sights  as  it  itnpcrfeetlv  concealed. 
I''niu'ies  i.t'  men  were  ol'lcn  .-ecu:  the  people  called  them  l.ath.ita 
—  fathers  or  ancients.  The  names  of  thc-e  rude  pice.  -  of 
handiwork  were  preserved,  and  when  thev  weresp«iken  of.  the-e 
reveri'd  names  were  pronounced  nio-t  carefully.  1  In -e  htath.-n 
teadi  us  a  le-sou  li\-  their  thought ful  utterances  of' the  name-  of 
their  deities.  Sometime.-  there  are  otferiiiLT-  made  to  the 
"  father-"  hv  the  poor  savages. 

On  tin-  joiirnev  I  )r.  Livingstone  was  repeat cdlv  -aved  tVotu 
death  l>y  unmistakable  providence^.  In  hi- account  of  tlii-  he 
,-av-,  that  one  dav  he  came  to  a  village,  ill.  almo-t  evcrv  -tcp  in 
pain,  and  \va-  di-tre--ed  to  -ec  the  j>eop!e  all  ru;i  awav.  Tin  ;••; 
\sa-  cvidentlv  a  mistake,  he  felt  sure  thev  could  ii"t  know  who 
hi'  was.  Thev  \\-ould  come  sometime-  and  throw  -tone-  at  lii- 
jM-oph1,  and  tried  to  kill  tho-e  who  went  tl-r  \\ater.  All  ni_r!tt 
thest*  villagers  watched  them.  The  next  morniinr.  the  in--t  tlilni: 
was  to  -end  men  forward  to  see  if  the  \\av  was  char.  I'M:  the 
people  would  come  to  no  term-.  Thev  knew  their  advantage, 
and  the  wron'j--  thev  had  sutler,  d  iV.'in  liin  .luma  and  Mo- 
hamad's men  when  thev  threw  down  the  ivorv  in  the  f.  ir<-t. 
In  passin::  ah'i^  the  narrow  path,  with  a  wall  of  deii-e  ve^-ta- 


688  TIIK 

tion  touching  each  hand,  tin*  party  came  to  a  jx>int  where  an 
ambush  had  l>eeu  placed,  and  tni-s  cut  down  to  olwtruct  them 
while  tlicv  -]>earvd  them  ;  luit  for  >onie  reason  it  w:is  abandoned. 
Nothing  could  U-  detected  ;  but  by  stooping  down  to  the  earth 
and  jut-ring  up  towards  the  sun,  a  dark  *hadc  could  >oin<itiiu»^ 
be  -ecu  :  thi-  was  an  infuriated  savage,  and  a  slight  rustle  in 
the  dcn-e  vegetation  meant  a  spear.  A  large  spear  from  his 
ri'jht  lunged  past  the  doctor,  and  almost  gra/ed  his  baek,  and 
stu<-k  tirmlv  into  the  -oil.  The  two  men  Iritm  whom  it  came 
aiijtcared  in  an  opening  in  the  forest  onlv  ten  yards  off* and 
lulted.  one  looking  baek  over  his  shoulder  as  he  ran.  AS  thev 
Men-  expert  \\ith  the  -pear  it  was  remarkable  that  it  mi— ed, 
except  that  he  was  too  .-un-  of  hi-  aim  and  the  good  hand  of 
( lod  wa-  upon  Livingstone. 

Ili  \va-  In  hind  the  main  l>odv,  and  all  were  allowed  to  pass 
till  he,  tin-  leader,  who  \\a-  InTievetl  to  be  Mohamad  Ho^harib, 
nr  Kolokolo  himself,  e:iine  tij>  t"  th-  point  when-  tln-v  lav.  A 
red  jacket  thev  had  formerly  stvn  the  d«K'tor  wearing  was  proof 
to  them  that  he  was  the  -ame  that  sent  l>in  .luina  t->  kill  live  of 
their  men,  capture  eleven  \\onien  and  children,  and  twenty-live 
goat-.  Another  -pear  wa-  thrown  at  him  bv  an  nn-eeii  a--ail- 
ant,  and  it  mi--ed  al-o.  bv  al>oiit  a  li»ot  in  front,  (inn-  were 
tired  info  the  den-e  ma--  of  Jbrr-t,  but  with  no  etl'eet,  for  noth- 
ing coiiM  be  -een  ;  "liiev  heard  the  men  jeering  and  denouncing 
them  clo-e  bv  :  t\\o  ot'  their  partv  were  slain,  -till  no  one  could 


lie    -. 


<  'omin_r  to  a  j>art  of  the  Iliiv-t  cleared  for  cultivation  IV. 
Living-tone  noticed  a  '^i_rantic  tree,  made  -till  talhr  bv  '^rowing 
0:1  an  ant-hill  twentv  Jeet  hijh  ;  il  had  tire  applied  near  il-  root-. 
Ib-  heard  a  crack,  which  told  that  the  lire'  had  done  h-  \\ork. 
li'it  I'll  no  alarm  till  hi- .-aw  it  mine  -traight  to\\ard  him;  he 
•.'.  pace-  bacL.  and  ilown  it  came  to  the  ground  one  \ard 
him.  and,  breaking  into  -.  \eral  length-,  it  covered  hiri 
ui:!i  a  <  ."'id  of  dn-t.  Had  the  branch.-  not  pre\  ioii-lv  be,  n 
ro'tiilotl'  h'  '  ,  ,11  M  -caree!  v  have  e-cajH-d.  '1  hn-  tlii'e.  tinn-in 
one  dav  h-  wa-  dehvi-n-d  trom  im|M-nding  death.  \\henthev 
-.iw  thi-  third  d«!ivi  ranee,  hi-  attendant-,  who  were  -caitered 
in  all  din-el  ion-,  came  running  hack  to  him,  calling  out ,"  1  '<  a-  e ! 
»-:u  •  '.  1  tini-h  all  \onr  work  in  site  of  tln?-e  -nle 


"I    HKC'AMK    WKAKY — INDIFFKUKXT. 

and  in  spite  <>f  every  tiling."  Like  them,  Dr.  Living-tone  took 
it  as  an  omen  of  good  snccc>,s  to  crown  him  vet,  lor  which  his 
faith  gave  thanks  to  the  "Almighty  Preserver  of  men." 

They  had  live  hours  of  running  the  gauntlet,  wa\  laid  bv 
spearmen,  who  all  felt  that  if  thev  killed  the  din-tor  thev  would 
he  revenging  the  death  of  relations.  From  each  hole  in  the 
tangled  mass  a  spear  could  lie  expected  ;  and  each  moment  thev 
expected  to  hear  the  rustle  which  told  of  deadlv  weapon-  hurled 
at  them.  "  I  became  wearv,"  he.-avs,  "with  the  eon-taut  -train 
of  danger,  and,  as  I  suppose  hapjM-ns  with  soldiers  on  the 
field  of  battle,  not  courageous,  hut  perfeetlv  inditlcrent  whether 
I  were  killed  or  not.'' 

When  at  la.-t  thev  got  out  of  the  forest  and  cro— ed  the  Liva 
on  to  the  cleared  lands  near  the  villages  of  Monanbundwa,  and 
lav  down  to  rest,  thev  soon  saw  Muanampuuda  coming,  walking 
np  in  a  stately  manner  unarmed  to  meet  them.  lie  hail  heard 
the  vain  tiring  into  the  bush,  and  came  to  a-k  what  wa-  the 
matter.  Dr.  Livingstone  explained  the  mistake  that  had  hi -en 
made  l>v  the  assailants  in  supposing  that  he  was  Kolokolo,  the 
deeds  of  whose  men  he  knew,  and  then  thev  went  on  to  his 
village  together. 

In  the  evening  the  chief  sent  to  say  that  if  the  doctor  would 
give  him  all  his  people  who  had  gun-,  he  would  call  hi-  ou  n 
people  together,  hum  otV  all  the  vegetation  thev  could  tire,  and 
punish  the  offenders.  This  was  not  eon-i-tent  with  the  feelings 
"f  Dr.  Livingstone.  He  felt  very  grateful  thai  < l'»l  had  delivered 
him,  and  had  saved  him  from  shedding  l>!o"d  when  it  seemed 
impossible  to  do  otherwise,  and,  declining  the  otl'ercd  service,  h«» 
pursued  his  wav.  lie  was  too  ill  to  take  much  notice  of  the 
•ountrv,  too  ill,  indeed,  to  reali/e  the  dangers  surrounding  him. 
In  all  his  wanderings  no  jonrnev  had  In  en  performed  with 
greater  suffering.  The  eoimtrv  wa-  not  only  the  alMMJe  ot'  wild 
men,  hut  the  fbtv-ts  and  jungles  thrnurh  which  thev  jia--eil 
afforded  hiding-places  to  mo-t  li-rocioii-  beasts,  who-e  pn-em-e 
alwavs  call-  for  vi^ilani  e  on  the  part  of  -iieli  individuals  a-  in- 
vade their  precincts.  The  leopard.  wln»-e  habit-  have  not  eetne 
so  conspiciiouslv  before  u-  as  manv  ot  the  i:ion-ter-  oi  the  land, 
is  a  serious  scourge  in  Manvupma.  (hie  day  a  goat,  an  humble 
but  very  important  member  of  the  caravan,  was  surpri-ed  bv 
So 


502  A   !>i:r..u»Fri.  P!SAIT<>INTMI:NT. 

the  pre*«in<;  attention-  of  a  iriant  leopard.  Ho  wa<  a  terriblo 
animal  ;  lit-  sei/.-d  the  poor  ijoat  with  hungry  rape,  and  even 
when  a  ."hot  li:i>l  l>n»ken  futth  hi-  forelep?  the  enragtxl  taast 
-;>ramj  "ii  a  man  and  l>it  him  severe!  v.  There  were  elephant* 
and  l)urta!<xs  ami  lion-,  and  herds  of  more  harmless  animal.*,  but 
tli--  wearv  traveller  wa-  in  no  mood  for  adventure,  and  at  Ix^t 
had  no  fondue— for  hunting.  The  sntfcrinp*  he  endured  in  Inxly 
i:icr.-.i.-«-d  everv  dav,  and  In1  fore  he  reached  Tanganyika  he  felt 
:•.-  it  he  shuiild  <-ertainlv  ilie  on  his  ted.  I  lis  appetite  failed, 
'!i«'  •'isiallt-t  <jiiantitic-  <>1  meat  railsod. violent  diarrh<ea,  and  his 
mind  U-in-j1  -ip-lv  dfj»n>-c<l  reaeted  on  the  Imdv.  All  the 
trader-  \vetv  p-turnintr  sinti^-ful ;  he  only  h:icl  iaile<l,  and  ex- 
]M-ri. •!)<•.  .1  \\-di-r\- .  thwartinir,  liaMlinir.  when  alnm-t  in  siirht  of 
the  <"id  t«>\v;ird  \\Iiich  he  had  -trained.  With  -neh  reflection^, 
:ind  :i  !"»l\'  :ilii)n-t  \vort)  "lit,  he  dra;_r'J(-d  himsi'lf  toward  the 
l:i!,e  At  length,  on  tin-  I'".'!  of'  (  )etnlM-r.  he  landed  the  seo»nd 
tin)'-  at  I'jiji.  All  o!'  the  Ar:tl>-  turned  out  to  welcome  him. 
KM'  ni'in  th  in  :ill  \va-  Moony  inhere  alx'timliiiLr  in  i-ordialitv 
The  I<.n_'  mareh  \v:i-  over,  the  exploration  «.('  Manyuema  had 
(•••en  :ieeiitnjili-h.  d.  the  j-'-al  i-annittal-  had  l»-en  -een,  and  the 
>!ave-tnid''  had  \»->-]\  invent iirateil  to  hi-  tullt-t  sitisfaction. 
Hut  the  IPTO  hiin-elf  had  retnrm-d  "  little  hetter  than  a  skele- 
ton." lint  the  market-  \\ere  full  nf  all  kind-  <•!  f«MMl.aiid  with 
re-t  and  t'iM>d  the  emaciated  Ixwlv  nii^lit  .-non  iM^-mne  vigorous, 
arid  fhi-ii,  th"  plan- --there  i<  nothiicj  like  the  ela.-ticitv  of  a 
-tron_'  man'-  -jiirif--  — h<-  would  \-et  -.^e  all  tho-e  \-a-t  nnder- 
-n.tnx!  h"ii-'  -  and  the  l'«>nr  ancient  li'iintain-.  In  the  midst  of 
t|,<-''  in-]'iiin_r  hope-  there  eame  a  piee»-  dt'  information  which 
-4-emed  t»  lil'it  "lit  the  pietnre  hi-  hope  v. a-  -ketchintr,  and 
p!ii!ii_"d  him  int'i  the  deep«--t  perp!e\it\.  All  of  hi-  plan-  had 
pi'iT-nppo-ed  the  pi •— •  --i"ii  of  ainin<lant  -upplie-  nt  cloth  an<l 

liead-    uhi'h    h"    knew    had    U-en    -ellt    to    I     ]l|l. 

I  "nf'irtiinafi-ly  th<--"  -upplie-  had  IHIH  infi'ii-ted  to  one 
"-!:  r-'I  r..i-h;'.,  a-  l-'id'T  "t  th«-  e;ir:i\-.-in  eon\-i-\  MI/  ihern  frotn 
X.i:i/iliar  ;  he  pr<  ••.  •  d  him-'  It  a  ••"ii-uniMiaf'-  t  hi>  t  ;  tn>t  a  t  liPiid 
•  r  a  i-ad  r-iiniiis-d  ;'••!•  th--  o\\  ner  "t  all.  'I  hi-  wa-  dreadful 
!:•  '.\  -.  "  f  >ut  of  t  hrei-  thoii-atid  vnrd-  of  calico  and  '•even  hnn- 
(!:••!  i'i  MI:-!-  "t"  l.«ad-  in.?  a  \'ard  of'  cali«  o  or  a  -trin/  of  heads 
T>  -M  iih'  •!."  '11  i'  i  ,i-e  v.  a-  tnilv  di  -p-  rate  ;  the  f.  \v  thiti^."-  \\  hich 


TIIK    (iOOn    SAMAFMTAN.  £c^ 

•..  c  d(i  -tor  had  left  of  his  old  stock  could  hardly  suffice  to  buy 
fhod  for  himself  and  his  few  men  a  single  month.  lie  saw 
nothing  hut  starvation  or  absolute  de|>cndence  on  the  Arab*  in 
store  for  him  ;  and  there  was  no  redress.  The  man  who  had  re- 
duced him  to  this  extremity  l>v  hi--  outrageous  dishonestv  even 
presumed  to  oiler  his  welcome  with  extended  hand,  and  when 
his  hand  was  refused  complained  of  U'ing  hadlv  treated  !  The 
destitution  was  almost  unbearable.  Where  was  the  piod 
Samaritan  who<e  commission  it  might  IK-  to  relieve  him?  ( iod 
could  have  answered  that  question  ! 

Mr.  Stanley  had  left  Mrera  on  the  17th.  His  caravan 
was  the  picture  of  confidence  and  contentment  again,  all  squab- 
bling had  ceased.  Bombay  had  forgotten  \\\>  rel>ellion,  the 
powerful  Kirango/i  was  roadv  to  embrace  his  captain,  and  Mab- 
ruki  of  Unyanyem  be  vowed  he  could  smell  the  fish  of  Tangan- 
yika. They  had  passed  through  the  thin  forests  adorned  with 
myriads  of  marvellous  ant-hills,  those  wonderful  specimen-  of 
engineering  talent  and  architectural  eapacitv,  those  cunninglv 
contrived,  model  cities,  with  which  the  tinv  deni/ens  of  African 
wilds  astonish  the  traveller  continually  ;  and  on  across  plains 
dotted  with  artificial-looking  cones  and  flat-topped,  i-olated 
mountains,  and  through  marshv  ravines  where  everv  itnluckv 
step  insured  a  bath  in  Stvgian  oo/.e — the  various  scene-  of 
southern  I'konongo.  Then  on  through  the  territory  so  lately 
abandoned  bv  the  dreaded  Wa/avira.  And  on  that  --Id  dav  of 
October,  that  seemed  the  darkest  of  all  the  davs  to  I  )r.  Living- 
stone, he  was  on  the  banks  of  the  "  beautiful  stream  of  Mtambo," 

'•  When-  the  thorny  l>r:ike  aii'l  thicket 

Mell^ely  till   tile  i  li!er-|  i;lee 
Of  the  tre.^.  tlir.niu'h  \vh<.^e  tliiek  l«r:ineliPS 

Never  sunshine   liirht--    tile  Ji';tee  " 

the  abode  of  lions  and  leopards  and  elephants  anil  wild  boars. 
One  of  those  splendid  parks  of  the  wilderness  where  majotie 
fore<t<  and  jungles,  and  lawn-like  glade-,  ami  recdv  l>rake>  and 
perilous  chasms  all  unite  to  tbnn  that  climax  d  wildne--  ami 
beautv.  "  t lie  hunter's  paradise."  It  \\a-ju.-t  (lie  plaec  to  arouse 
all  the  Nimrod  ,-pirit  a  man  po— c>-r<.  ami  the  two  <la\v-  of  r«-.-l 
were  turned  to  good  ace  omit  bv  Mr.  Stanlev  in  te.-tin^  the  virtue 
of  his  line  rifle-  un  the  master-  of'  the  domain. 


INSIMKl.M.    INFORMATION. 

When  the  march  was  resumed  they  p-«ssed  on  through  I'ka- 
wendi,  amid  "  the  mggetlest  Mviie-."  We  are  told  that  tlif 
young  traveller  had  In-held  in  Africa  a  long  and  wearying  way. 
a  hunger-lK-gotting  tramp,  '*  all  muntry,"  no  villages,  no  jn'ople, 
no  food,  onlv  wild  herds  of  bntValoe-,  and  tracks  of  the 
rhinoceros.  Then  l>v  the  village  of  N/ogera,  chief  of  the 
Wavin/a,  where  food  was  bought  and  a  guide  obtained,  and  a 
stunning  blackmail  levied  to  spice  the  kindness,  and  introducing 
the  wliit«-  man  into  the  wavs  nf  l"vin/ji.  And  a  fair  sjMx-imen 
it  W:L>  i»f  the  exjx-rienees  of  the  next  three  dav<  spent  in  crossing 
this  omntrv  :  over  and  over  were  like  taxes  made  before  the 
travellers  reached  the  Malngara/.i,  where  the  Wavin/a  put  their 
final  demands  in  the  shape  of  ferriage,  and  Mr.  Stanley  was 
permitted  to  shake  the  dn-t  of  their  o>iiiitrv  oil'  }\\*  feet,  finnlv 
eonvineed  that  these  same  Wavit>7-i  were  worse  than  the  I ''_'"'_'", 
wor-e  than  aiiv  pe^iple,  un<jualifle<lly  had,  master-  in  th'-  Salanic 
art  of  |>ailne-<. 

NN'hile  the  prominent  m<-n  of  the  caravan  \\-ere  eon^nifnlafin^ 
'•ai-h  of  h»  r  and  their  "  master ''  on  1«  in.:  "'"  "f  l*vin/a,  aii"ther 
raravan  apjware«l  \'r»m  t!i«-  direction  ot'  I  *;'ji  ;  t !ii-  1  nrm  <\  o'lt  a 
earavan  "!  \\  a_rulih:i.  \\hen  th'V  rann.-  n«'ar,  Mr.  Stanley 
a-k'-d  l!i"  news,  and  v.as  inli.nin-<l  that  a  \\liit''  man  had  ji:~t 
arrived  in  I";  ;i  tV«>iii  Manvtiema.  lie  \\a-  -t:irl  led,  and  hi-  HH'ii 
t'nllv  -!ian-d  lii-  astonishment,  ami  <jne>tions  and  an-wers  ful- 

loWi-d    i|l|iek'v. 

"  \   u  hire  man  '.'  "  t !i«'\-  a»k«'«l. 

"  ^  - -.  a  white  man,"  u  a-  th'-  replv. 

"  II-.-v  \va-  h.-dr 1  '.'" 

"  I  .ik<-  t h--  i -ia-t -•!•."  -ai'l  the  -] n  ak< •!•,  point i ML:  to  Mr.  Stanley. 

"  I  -  h'-  V'  in  i  i-j  •  >r  -  >!<! '.'  " 

"  ll«-  i-  ••!.!  :  I,.-  ha-  u!iife  hair  on  hi-  fit-,-,  :m.l   i-  --.-k." 

''  \\  IK  r.-  ha-    le-  ••<  •m-1   lV>  iin  '.'  " 

''  l''i-o!ii  a  vrv  tar  «••  iimtrv,  a\\a\  I'.'Vond  I  ^uhlia,  call«<«l 
llain  M'  ma. 

"  I  :i'l'  •  '!     and   i  -   !i<-  -t«  >ppiir.:  at     I    j  iji   n>  >w  '.'  " 

"  ^  .  — ,   v.i1  -aw   hi:n  aooiit   i-i/ht   <lav-  a •_">." 

"  I  '•  •  •  "U  think  h«'  \\  ill  -top  t!i<-r>-  nut il  w«-  --.•«•  him  '.'  " 

"  1  '-n't    kno-,\  ." 

"  \\'-^    h-  ever    ill     I'rii    U-tnrrV  " 


TIIK    FOKCKD    MAIU'll. 

"  Yes,  lie  went  away  a  loii)4  linn-  a^o." 

Tlii-p-  could  In-  no  ilniilit  about  it  :  this  \\  bite  tiiau  jn-t  from 
Manyunna— olil,  gray,  nlrk — mu*t  In-  Livingstone.  The  new-, 
bent  the  ardent  blood  of  Mr.  Stanley  i>oundin^  through  hi* 
veins.  His  men  appreciated  his  enthusiasm  nioiv  fully  than  w« 
ixnilil  have  expected  <>f  them. 

Alter  a  short  murrh  they  came  into  the  borders  of  I 'him. 
Here  a-jain  thev  were  siil>je<-t*il  to  heavv  taxes,  anil  in  two  (lavs 
Mr.  Stanlev  had  paid  over  to  the  jiettv  chieftains  no  le>*  than 
two  whole  hales  of  his  piveious  cloth,  for  the  IHxTtv  <>(  walking 
on  the  Around.  Hi-  was  tempted  strongly  to  fi^ht,  but  that 
would  endanger  the  expedition;  lie  mi^ht  !>e  killed:  tln-n  \\ho 
would  relieve  the  sick  man  at  t'jiji'.'  That  would  not  do;  hut 
he  would  bo  robbed  of  all  before  ho  reached  him:  then  howeniild 
he  help  him '.'  That  must  not  be.  He  determined  on  making 
forced  wilderness  marches  across  the  inhospitable  eountrv,  avoid- 
ing all  villages.  Provisions  were  preparetl  for  four  dav.-  under  the 
shadow  of  tlu' chief  who  had  taxed  him.  He  knew  that  there 
were  numbers  of  them  ahead  who  would  do  the  >ame  tiling  if 
thev  saw  him  ;  thev  must  not  have  that  pleasure.  It  \\;i-  better 
to  bribe  a  LTilide  than  be  robbed  bv  chiei'-.  S<»  he  bribed  a  Lruide, 
and  making  a  noiseless  departure  in  the  ni^lit  I'rotn  the  village 
of  the  kind's  brother,  he  be^an  a  IOIILT.  silent.  l'ore«-d  man-h.  and 
in  three  davs  they  crossed  the  Mkuti,  a  glorious  little  river. 
whose  ]'ipp!iii'_r,  babbling  waters  seemed  to  i-njov  the  joke  which 
the  white  man  had  plaved  on  the  NN'ahha. 

The  next  dav  brought  them  to  the  brow  of  the  hill,  whem-e 
looking  awav  westward  the  ea^er  e\  e  of  enthu.-ia.-tie  S'anlt-v 
caught  the  first  view  ot'  Lake  Tau^anvika.  It  wa.-  in-arlv  the 
!-ame  >jtot  fp>in  which  Hurtou  obtained  the  view  which  he  ha* 
so  eloquently  described.  "Nothing:,  iu  .-ooth."  he  sav.-.  '' could 
be  m.ire  pictures'jue  than  thi-  lir>l  view  of'  the  TaiiL-anvika  lake, 
as  !t  lav  in  the  lap  of  the  mountain*  basking  in  the  ^'"rm  on* 
tn>pi«~.il  sunsiiine.  I'elow  and  bcvond  a  *iioi-i  ii'-.-e-round  of 
d 


cut   bv  breaking  wavelets.      Farther  in  trout  .*tretcii  tl.e  \\ati-r 


I.  A  K  F.   T  A  NO  A  XYTK  A.. 

expanse  of  tin-  Iight«->t  and  sofu-t  blue,  in  breadth  varying 
from  thirtv  to  thirty-five  miN>,  and  sprinkled  \>y  the  eri.-p  east 
wind  with  tiny  m-s«vnts  of  snowy  loam.  The  background  in 
front  is  a  high  and  broken  wall  of  stfe! -colored  mountain,  here 
flecked  and  capped  with  jM-.irly  mi:-t.s,  then-  .-landing  sharply 
penrilled  a^ain-t  tin-  a/ure  air  ;  its  yawning  chasms  marked  by 
a  devjM-r  plum-eolor.  fall  toward  dwarf  hills  of  mound-like  pro- 
j)oriions,  which  apparently  dip  their  feet  in  the  wave.  To  the 
south  and  opjM»-ite  the  long  low  point  U'hind  which  the  Mala- 
ga rax  i  river  discharges  the  red  loam  susjiended  in  it.s  volant 
stream,  lie  (lie  hi  nil*  headlands  and  CUJHS  of  1  "_Mihha,  and  us 
the  eve  dilate- it  tails  ii|»oii  a  cluster  of  outlying  islets,  sjH«ck ling 
a  -ea-hori/on.  Villages,  cultivated  lands,  the  frequent  canoes 
of  fi-herinen  <>n  the  water-.,  and  on  a  nearer  approach  the  niur- 
niur-  <>t  the  waves  br«iiking  on  the  shore,  give  something  of 
varietv,  ol'  movi-nient,  of  life  to  the  landsca|>c,  which  like  ;il!  the 
fairest  pro-jMi-t-,  in  thise  reginiis  want  but  a  little  .if  i  In-  neatm-s 
und  tini-h  "t  art-  — nio-i|iies  and  kia-k>,  pala<-<^  and  \ 'ilia-.  ^:\r- 
den-.  and  on-hard-.  c«)ntnisting  with  the  j.r»tu->-  lavi-hin--.-  and 
ningiiificfne**  i)f  nature,  and  iliversifving  the  un!>ruK.-n  vc^i-ta- 
t ion  —to  rival  if  not  excel  the  rno-t  admired  -cem  rv  of  tin-  c'a-~ic 
region-.  The  giant  -hopes  of  thi-  \'a~t  ciwa--e  apj>'-ani|  d«iiil'!v 
Ix-ailtiful  after  the  -ilent  and  -pectral  mangrove  cpeek>  of  the 
s<ii-l>oard,  and  the  melancholy,  motiotonoii-  e\perien«-e  of  de^-rt 
ind  jungle  -ei-nery.  tawnv  Pn-k  and  .-nn-parelni|  plain,  rank 
herbage  and  flats  of  black  min-."  It  wa-  -u<-!i  a  -eene  a-  anv 
man  would  con-ider  a  "un|M>n-ation  t'oi-  ai!  the  toils  and  \-e\at  io;is 
jf  the  Inn1/  way  bv  whieh  it  i-  n-acheil. 

lint  there  wen*  eharms  in  I'unjanvika  for  Mr.  S:an!e\-  which 
wi-re  ii-it  tli>  re  1'or  |5ui-t.in.  Th.-re  bv  the  -i'l>-  o!'  the  beautiful 
\saf--r  \\a-  th'-  noble  »l«l  man  whom  h.-  had  '-"ine  to  Alri'-a  to 
!!••  "  d. •-•••  \\<\<  d  tli-1  Wi -t.-ni  *},<}>,•  nf  th<« 
louche  i'i\i  r  b- -foi-.-  IHLH.  and  in  an  hour 
I'M.  to  the  "hi'-K  nia!'-t'-  brake  \\lii'  h  -jro-s  -  on  both  bank^  of 
r  ;  tie  -i  \'.adi!i_r  thrmrjli  the  i-!i  ar  -'r<-am  th--\  i  ni<-rcj«-'l  tioin 
tl.e  brake  and  -;. .« id  -urrmi tided  1  >v  t  In-  •_•  ird-  n-  •  >\  I  '  jiii.  a  marvel 
lit'  \.--_"  tal.'"  \va!th.  Almo-t  o\  .-I-J-O-A  er.  d  \<\  emotion,  Mr. 
S:. in  •  .  i  ,n!(|  h  ir,|!\-  -,-,.  tli'-  gran-ful  palm-,  neat  plats,  and 
H:iil!  !!a_"-  \\itli  Irail  teiie'--  of  cane.  II-  pu-h'd  along 


TRIUMPHAL   APPROACH,  r}l)t) 

rapidly  at  the  Intid  of  his  caravan,  le-t  the  news  of  his  <x>ming 
should  reach  the  jx-opleof  Bunder  L'jiji  Ix-fore  he  came  in  sigln. 
Presently  he  reached  the  summit  of  the  la-t  of  the  little  ridge-, 
and  the  famous  j>ort  of  I'jiji  eiuboweml  in  palm-  lay  l>e|o\\, 
not  five  hundred  vards  awav."  He  did  not  think  of  the  hun- 
dreds of  miles  he  had  marched,  of  the  hundred-  of  hill-  he  had 
ascended  and  descended,  of  the  fore-ts  and  jungles  and  varied 
plains  and  scorching  suns.  They  were  pa-t  ;  the  fondc.-i  hopes 
were  to  be  ivali/cd  ;  in  a  few  moment.-  he  should  .-< •<•  I  >r.  Living 
.-(one;  the  Samaritan  was  at  hand.  The  perplexity  of  Living- 
stone had  become  extremity  ;( Jod  made  it  an  opportunity.  Mr. 
Stanley  gave  the  command  : 

"  t'nfurl  the  flags  and  load  your  gun-." 

"Ay,  Wallah,  ay,  Wallah,  bana!"  was  the.  au.-wering  shout 
of  the  men,  and  <piieker  than  we  can  write,  it  the  flags  wen- 
unfurled  and  the  guns  readv. 

''One,  two,  three — fire!"  and  a  vollev  from  nearlv  fiftv  gun-> 
roared  like  a  salute  from  a  battery  of  artillery. 

"  Xow,  Kirango/.i,"  shouted  Stanley,  "hold  the  white  man's 
flag  up  high,  and  let  the  Xan/ihar  flag  bring  up  the  rear;  and 
you  men  keep  close  together  and  keep  firing  until  we  halt  in 
the  market-place  or  before  the  white  man's  house  ;  there  arc  fish 
and  bear  and  a  long  rest  for  vou — utan-li." 

Before  they  had  gone  a  hundred  yards  the  repeated  volley-, 
had  waked  I'j'j'  to  ''"'  knowledge  that  a  caravan  was  coming, 
and  the  people  went  rushing  to  meet  them.  L)r  Livingstone, 
also  had  heard  those  volleys.  \\  e  may  not  know  what  thought-* 
Hashed  through  his  mind  :  what  hopes  bounded  in  hi-  heart. 
Su-i  and  Chuina  went  hounding  awav  with  the  multitude- 
there  were  Wanvamwc/.i,  Wangwaiia,  Warundi,  Waguhha, 

Wamanyuema    and    Arab all    thronging  about    the   caravan 

with  their  salutations — all   ga/ing  with  admiration  on  the  beau- 
tiful bindere   Mcrikaui  (American  tlaji. 

Suddenly  Mr.  Stanley  heard  a  voice  in  the  crowd  on  his  right 
nay  : 

"  ( lood-morning,  sir." 

Startled  to  hear  these  familiar  words  in  such  a  crowd  he 
turned  (piieklv  to  find  the  man  who  uttered  them.  That  man 
was  right  bv  his  side,  with  the  blackest  of'  faces,  but  all  ani- 


sr.sr  AXI»  CIIUMA. 

mated  and  jovons  ;  he  was  a  picture  lor  the  artist  as  he  stood 
then-,  dn>-*-d  in  his  long  white  shirt,  with  a  turban  of  American 
sheeting  ar»mid  hU  woollv  heail.  As  Mr.  Stanley  gazed  at  this 
ojij>.iriti  in,  li<-  exclaimed : 

"  \\  ho  tin-  ini-chiff  an-  you?" 

"  I  am  Su-i,  -ir.  the  .-t-rvant  of  Dr.  Livingstone,''  came  the 
an-wi  r,  while  the  .-jH-uker  smiled — a  broad,  grand,  tccth-ili* 
nlaving  r-iiiil<-. 

'•  What,  i-   \h\  Livingstone  here?" 

"  Yt-s,  -ir." 

"  In  this  villas- '.'" 

"  Yt>,  >ir." 

"An-  voii  -ur<- '.'  " 

''Sun-,  -un-,  -ir  ;  \\liv  1  leave  him   jnst  now." 

.Iii-t  tln-ii  a  -.1-mid  vnier  l»rnke  in  \\ith  : 

"  ( ii M i'1-iii- >rn ; ii'j,  -ir. 

'"Hall"!  i-  thi.«>  another  one  ?"  said  Stanley. 

"  V«~.  -ir." 

<l  Wi-Il.  what  i-  your  nann-V  " 

''  Mv  naiin-  i-   <  'hiiina,  >ir." 

"  \\  h:it  !  an-  v-.n  ( 'Imiiia,  the  friend  of  Wckotani?" 

"  V.-,  -ir." 

"And  i-  th«-  d'M-tm-  well  '!  " 

"    Not    V«TV    \\rll,    -ir." 

"  \Vh,-r,.  ha-  h.-  IM-.-H  so  lonur'.'" 
"  In    Manviiema." 

'•  Now  von,  Su-i,"  -aid  Mr.  Stanlev,  "run  and  tell  the  doctor 
I  am  coming.*' 

"  ^  i-,   -ir,  '   and    oil'  Su-i    dart<-<!    like   a   madman    \\iih   the 

wi-!.'oini-  IK-W-. 

II'.inn_r    tin-    MI-W-  tin-    dix-tor  had    conn-   out    in    Iron!    of  his 
ho'i-«  .  aii'l  -t»oi|  -urroiindi-d    liv  a  nnmixT   oi    inllnetitial  Aral* 

await  in/  lie-  arr!\  al. 

\  «-rv  -<Kiii     Mr.  *>faiili-v  <tim'-    in-ar  etioii-^h  to  -<<     him  ;    tht-rr 
h«-  -'•>•.!.  an  "M   in  in    iiid<-i-d.  \\ifh  '^r.(\    hair  and   l»-ard.       A-  lie 

•»['!'! "  ''  •'"•  ••!  :i'  t!i.  ln-ad  i.l'  lii-  -aravan  h<-  l""k  otV  hi-  hat,  his 
in-  n  In!?''  Mr.  ^-'anli'V  \\alki-d  forward  and  said: 

I  ':'.    I ,- '.  !  n  '-'.  I'l"1.    I    |>ri--uiin-  '.'  " 
'}•-    '    r.-«ilii-.I    tic-    d<><  t..r,   \\  ilh    a    kindlv    -milr,  lifting    hi* 


"THK  MKKTING."  On;; 

Both  the  men  then  replaced  their  hats  ;md  grasjwd  hand.-. 
.There  were  fe\v  words. 

"I  thank  (tod,  doctor,  that  I  have  been  permitted  to 
we  you." 

"  I   (eel  very  thankful  that  I  am  here  to  welcome  you." 

The  introduction  was  finished,  the  acquaintance  was  formed; 
and  the  old  iuan  introdueed  his  new  friend  to  the  A  ral»  digni- 
taries by  name,  and  led  the  wav  to  the  broad  verandah  of  IIH 
lions*-.  TheV  Were  soon  seated  —  the  two  men  —  ->ide  liv  -ide, 
with  their  hacks  to  the  wall  of  the  house,  engaged  in  earnest, 
conversation;  and  it  was  not  long  hefore  Mr.  StanN-v  found 
himself  enact  ing  the  part  of  a  regular  periodical.  Referring  to 
this  conversation,  the  doctor  savs  : 

"The  news  he  had  to  tell  to  one  who  had  been  two  full  years 
without  anv  tidings  from  Furopc  made  mv  whole  frame  thrill. 
The  terrible  fate  that  had  befallen  France,  the  telegraphic 
cables  successfully  laid  in  the  Atlantic,  the  elect  ion  of  ( Jeneral 
(Jrant,  the  death  of  good  Lord  Clarendon,  mv  conMant  friend; 
the  proot  that  Her  Majesty's  Government  had  not  forgotten  me, 
in  voting  .i'1000  for  supplies,  and  manv  other  points  of  interot, 
revived  emotions  that  had  lain  dormant  in  Manyiicma." 

We  cannot  follow  the  conversation.  The  man  who  was 
telling  the  news  was  accustomed!  to  that  .-ort  of  thing,  and  the 
listener  heard  with  unspeakable  delight.  Jt  was  like  coming 
back  to  earth  from  the  grave. 

After  a  while  the  Arabs  left,  ;uid  verv  soon  there  came  back 
verv  nice,  savorv  dishes  from  their  majesties,  and  a  roval 
dinner  was  spread  ;  but  the  dinner  did  not  interrupt  the  conver- 
sation— -eating  and  talking,  and  talking  and  eating,  the  time 
passed  rapidly  away.  It  was  late  before  the  gentlemen  parted 
—  Mr.  Stanley  to  review  his  .-uccess  in  jovoii-  dr.-iin-.  and  1  >r. 
Livingstone  to  read  his  letters.  I'p  to  that  tune  Mr.  Stanlev 
had  withholden  the  nature  of  his  ink-ion.  The  next  morning, 
when  thev  met,  he  op<  ned  the  conversation  bv  ~avinu  : 

"Now,  doctor,  YOU  are  probably  wondering  uhv  I  carno 
here." 

'•  It  is  true,"  said  the  doctor.  "  I  have  ]>een  wondering.  I 
thought  von,  at  iirst,  to  be  an  emi»arv  of  the  French  <  lovern- 
mcnt  in  the  place  of  Lieutenant  Le  Saint,  who  died  a  tew  miles 


Gl>4  THK    HKV ELATION    MA1>E. 

above  fiondokoro.  I  heard  yon  had  !>oats,  plenty  of  men  and 
Hon.-,  and  I  reallv  l>elievetl  yon  were  some  French  officer  until 
I  saw  tli«%  American  Mag:  and  to  tell  the  truth,  I  was  rather 
glad  it  was  .-«>.  In-can-i-  1  con  Id  not  have  talked  to  him  in 
French,  and  if  IK-  did  not  know  Knglish,  we  would  have  Invn 
a  pretty  pair  of  white  men  in  I'j'j'-  ^  <n''  not  1'ke  to  ^k  .v"u 
voterdav,  Ix-caiiM-  it  was  noni*  of  mv  l>n.-iiK->>." 

"  \\  i  M."  .-a ill  Stanley,  laughing,  "  li»r  vonr  >aUc  I  am  j;hul 
that  1  am  an  Amrrifun  and  not  a  Fn-nchman,  and  that  we  can 
understand  i-ach  otln-r  pertiftlv  without  an  interpri'UT.  I  see 
the  A  rain  are  wondering  that  \on,  an  Mn^li.-hman,  and  I,  an 
American,  itm  nnder.-tand  ea<  h  other.  We  must  take  care  not 
to  tell  them  that  the  Kn^li-h  and  Aineriitin.s  have  fought,  and 
that  tin-re  are4 Alabama*  claims  left  nn.-ettled,  and  that  we  have 
.-ndi  j»ei>ons  as  l-Ynian-*  in  America,  who  hate  von.  Jint 
seriously,  din-tor — now  don't  be  frighteiieil  when  1  toll  von  thai 
I  have  come  alter — i/nu. 

"After  me?'' 

"  V.  ,." 

"   How?" 

Then  tiillowed  the  recital  of  the  interest  which  Mr.  Bennett 
had  li-lt  in  the  irj-rat  traveller,  of'  hi>  calling  Mr.  Stanlt-v  t'» 
him,  hi-^  liln-ralit v  in  fittintr  out  the  r.\|Hjdition,  of  his  cnin- 
mix-ion— "  I  ind  Livingstone." 

\\  e  alrejidv  know  the  destitution  to  which  IV.  Livingstone 
had  IM-I-II  n-diiccd,  and  the  dreadful  anxietic-  which  were 
weijhiiiL'  on  hi-  mind  and  heart.  \\  ord-  e.uild  hardlv  express 
the  gratitude  he  felt  for  thi-  inn  \\» -ct<  d  and  unpritfdcMitctl 
kin-Ill'--.  More  than  all.  he  -aw  the  hand  o|'  hi-  (i.xl  in  the 
deliverance  which  had  cnine  -o  o|i|Mirtnnelv.  (MMI  had  neviT 
It  -ecnied  like  a  (ili'd^e  of  -ii.-c'.-s  in  hi-  chcri-licd 
It  renewed  his  (•« iiir:t_'c  :ind  -trenijih.  Some  men 
would  have  I  li"irjht  ••!'  home,  \\  onld  have  '_'"!>'•  IP  -me.  I  !••  did 
no:  r«io-jrm/e  tin-  a- a  call  home,  bnl  it»  a  renewal  o|  In-  c.»m- 
mi--i"n  in  Alri'a,  and  he  n-ii\«d  it  with  tin-  dii|>c-t  thank- 
fnln-  --. 

Tj|edl\-    |i:i--i'd     pli  :i-.illt  1\\         The     ^'001 1     i-hi-iT     :illd     tln'^'oiKl 

f'H.d  j.i'.-.id.d  !i\  Mi.  Maid«  -v  a-  t«  d  like  a  charm  on  the-ick- 
man,  and  "-.n  li<  \-,a-.  lnm-<ll  airam.  I  hen  came  a  short 


A    CHflSE    OX    TIIK    I.AKK. 


005 


?ruiso  on  the  ;uk.',  i  ::harmi::g  excursion  in  lii.:  estimation  of 
me  OKI  traveller  who  had  been  so  long  plodding  about  the. 
country  on  li>ot.  Gliding  along  on  tin-  silverv  Airline,  -ur- 
ronndcd  by  splendid  S<VIHTV,  hardly  seemed  l»  hitn  like 
exploring.  The  principal  object,  however,  was  to  «i-t:l«*  the 
(juestion  of  a  northern  outlet.  It  had  been  a  favorite  theory, 
that  there  was  probably  a  connecting  link  between  the  Tangan- 
yika and  the  Albert  N' Van/a  of  Baker.  If  thi-  was  correct,  it 
was  very  important  that  it  be  known  to  be  .-o  ;  it'  it  \va-  not 
correct,  the  world  was  equally  anxious  to  know  it.  Like  manv 
a  pet  theory,  this  one  vanished  when  the  touchstone  of  aetiml 
observation  was  applied.  The  rivers  all  were  found  flowing 
into  Tanganyika.  Nothing  wa>  found  out  which  afforded  anv 
satisfaction  so  far  as  the  possible  importance  of  this  great  inland 
sea  in  connection  with  the  wonderful  river  of  K^vpt.  The 
travellers  had  the  pleasure  of  ibllowing  the  coa.-t  around  for 
inanv  miles,  diving  in  and  out  of  innumerable  rivers  and  creeks, 
sailing  under  the  shadow  of  towering  dill's  and  bv  beautiful 
banks  stretching  away  in  lawn-like  beauty.  Several  time-  they 
were  in  danger  of  being  forced  to  defend  themselves  with  their 
guns  against  presumptuous  savages.  Thev  both  enjoyed  it 
exceedingly.  To  \)r.  Livingstone  it  was  a  grand  picnic,  \\hen 
thev  returnetl  to  I  jiji  Dr.  Livingstone  began  the  preparation  of 
letters  to  be  committed  to  the  hands  of  Mr.  StanKy.  and  Mr. 
Stanlev  took  fever — one  \vas  quite  a*  natural  a-  the  other. 
Christmas  came,  and  it  was  resolved  to  observe  the  day  with 
the  time-honored  custom  of  a  fca.-t.  \\  hat  a  contraM  was 
promised  to  inanv  of  the  ('hri.-tinas  davs  which  the  doctor  could 
remember!  There  were  fat  broad-tail  sheep,  gnats,  7.1 'gga  and 
pombe,  eggs,  fresh  milk,  plantain-,  sciiguc,  tine  corn  flour, 
li>h,  onion<,  sweet  potatoes.  l\\\l  ala- !  l''erajji  ,-po;ltd  the 
ro:i<t,  and  the  cu-tard  was  burned. 

I)r.  Liv...gstone  had  decided  to  aeeompanv  Mr.  Stanley  a.' 
flir  as  Uiiyanyenibe,  where  he  hoped  he  would  find  et.od.-.  and 
where  he  proposed  to  remain  until  reliable  men  could  be  -cut 
him  from  Xan/.ibar,  with  whom  to  renew  hi-  ellort*  to  -olve  :ln- 
Nile  problem.  To  all  of  Mr.  Stanley's  argument.-  about  ^"ing 
home  he  replied:  "  No.  I  -liould  like  to  -ec  mv  t'amilv  \ ••  rv 
.iHich  indeiil  ;  niv  children's  1,-ttei'-  affect  me  intensely  ;  but  I 
mo-st  not  go  hcmi'j  ;  I  mu-t  lini-h  mv  ta.-k." 


ril  A  I'THK    XXXIII. 

A    .iMfKNKY    AND    A    HKI.AV. 

From  I'iiji  t<>  rnyany.-mtM-  I.ivinir>lnur  a  ('<»ui]wiii<>n— Iloutr  Atl"pt«fl — Fr.rrnt 
Kii!'-r!.tiimi<-iii  Mrth'-l-  «'f  Untiling  M:ik<iinliwr  Htintiiu'  II  ip|H,|,.,i.unu- 
B.ik-  -  '-  l:!,ui  •"••  -r-.»  II, nit  \ViM  I:.,..  "A  Jl-.r-.  !  ;i  ll-.r-c1  >W,T.|  uiim 
tin-  I'.iy  St:m!.  v  as  l!ti;i!.i  Ti-iil-l.il--  Arnv<-  lit  Kwili;iru  ll-'iuc  l.il'c  - 
Hi:«y  l'r>  j'.ir.il  i'iii-  I.i\  :n_'»t"in-  A  l>iin<iaii;  ly  I'roviilfl  t"r  1  ;ir--uvll  •  •!  \\:m- 
y.it!iwi/.  \  \\.!-l  !>.i'i.'  Iii<  l.ir-u-il  >"iu'  Tin-  r^rtin.1  l>.ij.iiii-i\  n 
.V.-uii-  Fli-  I.;,.-'.:-1!  l'.\j"  -iiti-.n  <  >-u.iM  I.i\  nu'-t«.nr  < ';ir.iv:i!i  S.-ut  I'..i--k 
Tii.-  Mi-i-.n  «  .-iii|. :.•!.-.!  r.-.i.-l..i..|.  l.iMn.-t.-i,.-.  M.,i,l.-y.  il..-  \V--rM  <  -lut-.rl 
HI  I '.-  i)')'  '.ii. tin.  n!  |.i\  iiij-tmii-  :n  I  n  \  Hi  \i-iiil.  i-  Hi-  i  >.-.'ii|i.it  i"-:  lli> 
\|...|.--.\  II..  /.  .il  r.r  \|I-.;..MS  Tli.-  « '..iiiitry  ln\itiiiL'  A  l:..l.in-..ti  i  ni-...- 
l.il'.-  I"!..-  Vl..'!..-^  •  I'  th.-  I  >.ii;itr\  Tin-  <';ill  I"  M  i«....ii.iri.  -  '  A'i.i  •  l-> 
\I:.-;.-n.iri.»  "  "  N.I  .1  ii.-jl.  r\  --r  >  !-  i  _•!.:  -.t-li:iii-l  "  I  I  \  i  :i  .-.!• .!..-'.  I:,T.  r.-t 
(..n.rt!  i  ir.i.p  .i!pl  \l -.iniu  u.--.  Sn-p.  u«<-  liiuli  >l  M.uil.-y  in  In/l.ii'.l  I  l..j 
l^n.-.'ii'-.  Ai-kii'.-.i  I.-.L-HI.  lit. 

Till:  jouriH-v  frtitn  I'iiji  In  1'nvaiiVfiuln'  (M-ciipicil  ni-arlv 
si-Vfii  \\.i-k~.  Mm-li  i>t'  lip-  i-miiitrv  iravcr-i  <1  jia--«-<l  mnl<-r  our 
cvi-  a-  v.f  trai-i-d  Mr.  >t:iiil«-\ '-.  inan-li  tn  tin-  lakr.  'I'hu-f 
-j>!i-ti'l''l  park  Ian-!-  which  ~n  cliamu^l  him  tlnii  \\i-rc  tin-  -aiin- 
inatdi!-  --  tliiatr--  ti-r  \\i'..l  mlvcnf  nrr.  and  lii-  -pirit ,  d- -ul -1  v 
liiinvant  in  ih'-  j'>v  ut'  lii-  -ii'-i-.---,  ri-\'i-llrd  pmiliarlv  in  ihc 
\\'-a!th  »l  i!i.-!d"iiT  \\iiidi  .adi  da\'  atl'ordiil.  And  tin-  old 
travi-lli-r,  \vlm-r  In-art  had  liccmnc  vi-rv  trmlrr  t»\\ard  tin- 
V"iin_'  iii-iii  wli't-r  iiulili1  ni!--i«in  had  n-vivinl  ln~  li->|><  and 
"  put  n-  \v  ill--  '  iiitu  In-  t'-i  li!«-  Iraiin-.  cnp>vcd  tin-  •  nthii-ia-iii 
\\lii-li  i-'-i. ;;nd«  •!  liini  ut'  tin-  vrar-  I«MI^  :I-_MI  \\  ln-n  h>  ••  ra\  •-  '!<  d 
\\iih  hi-  frirn.l  n.\\,-!|.  :m,l  witn.—i-d  ih.-  •!,  !i-l,t  ..|"  ( ;.,rd..n 
(  'iinttii  ;n.r  :;i  hi-  wmnli-rful  firjrai_r'-ii)'-nt-  v\ith  tin-  in.  >n-;i-r-  <if 
tip-  !-M-.-;.  |  t;  I  ,i\  i-i--t-- it--  h:id  a!r.-adv  i-n-1.  .if  d  him-.-h'  («> 
In-  i-ni!i|i  inimi  l>\  tli-  i-\  hiltit  inn  "I  maiiv  ln\i-!\  Irai'-i  hi-* 
kiii'iii'  -  at-d  .'•  n' '' M'---  \\rf-  aluav-  I-OII-JII--MIIH-.  and  tho 
in'.-r-  -r  •-.  !i  i'  li  Ii-'  iiianit'--l»-d  in  tin-  -i  )'•«••  -~.  -  i  >\-  tailnn-*  «\  t  In- 
vn!]ii/  \ii!i!"-l.  'li-  /'-I  \viili  v.  !i!<h  In-  jiart  icipatiil  in  all  ihr 
ud\  • -i.:  UP'  -  •  •( '  i  li.'  -  >unn-v  \\  in-  h  t"  hi  in  in  n -t  havi-  IH-»-H  «>  'in- 


A    IIELPFl'I.    FUIKN'D.  (»7 

mon  place — gave  him  a  warmer  phut-  still  in  the  big  American 
heart.  Tin-  travellers  had  wisely  avoided  the  troublesome 
Wahha  and  Wnvinxa  by  making  the  earlier  part  of  their  journey 
along  the  lake;  they  wen;  not  therefore,  harassed  !>y  tho-e  extor- 
tions which  so  frequently  spoil  the  pleasantest  experiences  of 
such  a  march.  The  personal  followers  of  Livingstone  and 
Stanley — indeed,  their  entire  caravan — shared  the  good  humor 
of  (heir  masters.  There  were  adventures  with  lions  and  ele- 
phants and  rhinoceroses  and  hippopotami  and  leopards,  and 
buffaloes,  zebras  and  giraffes  and  elands  passed  in  constant 
review.  And  beautiful  strange  birds  and  comical  monkeys  had 
their  part  in  the  programme  with  which  the  wonderful  country 
entertained  its  visitors.  Sometimes  these  actors  produced  mo-t 
moving  impressions  on  their  audience.  Mr.  Stanlev  had  oppor- 
tunities of  testing  the  strength  of  his  nerves  lace  to  face  with 
various  members  of  the  troupe;  and  often  he  needed  the  timelv 
comfort  which  his  experienced  friend  eould  give,  and  the  hints 
which  thirty  years  in  Africa  could  suggest  were  of  greatest 
service.  We  have  become  tolerably  familiar  with  most  of  these 
animals,  and  have  learned  reasonably  well  how  to  rank  them  ; 
but  the  different  methods  of  hunting  which  obtain  in  different 
sections  of  Africa  afVect  considerably  the  hunter's  selection  of 
his  game  ;  and  the  different  methods  pursued  by  rivilixed  and 
savage  hunters  make  a  great  difference  in  the  peril  or  sport 
attending  the  chase  of  different  animals.  The  great  unwieldy 
hippopotamus,  for  instance,  to  an  American  or  Kngli.-hman, 
armed  with  his  powerful  rifle,  loaded  with  hardened  balls,  is 
often  dull  work,  little  better  as  sport  than  shooting  an  '>\  at 
home.  I5ut  there  arc  hippopotamus  hunters  in  Africa  wlm,  ac- 
cording to  I)r.  Livingstone's  ideas  of'  such  matter.-,  make  the 
bravest  work  of  it  that  he  ever  witnessed.  These  hunters,  wlm 
are  distinguished  tor  their  wonderful  courage  far  and  wide,  are 
called  Makombwe.  When  they  go  forth  to  their  gallant  .-port 
each  canoe  i-  manned  bv  two  men;  they  arc  I<HILT,  liurht  craft, 
scarcelv  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  about  eighteen  inches  beam, 
and  from  eighteen  to  twentv  feet  lung.  They  arc  formed  fi>r 
speed,  and  shaped  somewhat  like  our  racing  b-iat.-.  Kaeh  man 
uses  a  broad,  short  paddle,  and  as  thev  guide  the  eati»c  -lowly 
down  stream  to  a  sleeping  hippopotamus  not  a  single  ripple  i» 


608  mri'opoTAMUs  nrxTixo. 


on  the  smooth  water  ;  they  look  us  if  holding  in  their 
Itn-nth,  am!  eotmnuniertto  hy  si^n.-  only.  As  they  come  near  the 
prev  the  hartMMiiKT  in  the  IM»W  lavs  down  his  puddle  and  rt-es 
sh»%.vl*  up.  and  there  lit-  stands  erect,  motionless,  and  ca<_rcr,  with 
tli--  luiitr-haiidlet!  weajHin  poised  at  arm's  length  al><>\v  his  head, 
till  com  in,;  i-lii-H-  \«  tin-  U-a-t  he  plunges  it  with  all  his  ini;jht  in 
toward-  the  In-art.  During  this  exciting  fi-at  he  has  to  keep  his 
l«alancf  exactlv.  His  neighbor  in  the  stern  at  once  hacks  hi- 
paddli-,  tin-  harj*N>ner  -its  down,  sei/es  his  puddle,  and  hacks  too 
to  «-cape  :  th<'  nninwl,  surprised  and  wounded,  seldom  returns 
tin-  attack  at  this  -la^c  <>f  the  hunt.  The  next  -taire,  however, 
i-  t'ii!l  <«f  daii'jcr. 

Th«-  Karlxil  Made  of  the  harpoon  i-  .«>enn'«l  l»y  a  lonir  and 
\'erv  -!ri-ii'_r  rojM-  wound  round  the  handle:  it  i-  intcndtnl  to 
<-i.  me  "in  "f  it-  -iM'ket,  and  while  the  inm  head  i-  tirndy  tixed 
in  the  anima!'-  l«>dv  the  r"|M-  unwind-  and  the  handle  tl<«at-  <>n 
tin-  -urt'iee.  The  hunter  ne\t  <_riM-<  t<>  the  handle  ami  haul-  en 
tin-  r'-pe  til!  he  knov,-  that  he  i-  ri-_dit  nyer  the  l>.a-I  :  when  he 
(••I-  lie-  line  -nddenly  -laeken  he  i-  prepanil  to  deli\'er  another 
h::rpo'ii!  tin-  in-tant  that  hippo.'-  eii,.rmoii-  ja\\-  appear  with  a 
{••n-iliie  u'i-unt  al»>\e  ih--  water.  The  l>aekin<^  l»y  the  paddle-  i- 
a_ra:n  r>  -p'-it.-d.  l»ut  hippo.  .(Jten  a—  anlt-  t  he  eaiioe.  eriim-he-  it 
\\il\\  hi-  L'ri-at  jaw-  a-  i-a-ilv  as  a  pi',r  would  a  hunch  of  a-p:tra- 
C'i-.  op  -hiver-  it  \\ithakick  l>y  hi-  hind  loot.  I>.  privi-d  of 
tii.  it  i-tniH-  the  gallant  comrad.-  in-tantly  dive  and  -\\iin  to  the 
,-hor--  uiid«-r  water:  tln-\  -av  that  the  infuriated  U-a-t  l<>,,k-  tor 

th'-lil     on     fin-     -lirt'l'-e,    ail'l      Iteill'^     heloW     tlieV      e-eape     111-     -I'jllt. 

\\  !.   :i    i-iU'_dit    liv  inanv  harpoon-    the   crews    nf    -< 


-<  \.-ra 


Tii.     rhino.-.  !••>-    i-    hardlv  a  more    mtcre-t in-j    -janie    than  thr 

pp<>T>o'aii)ii-    in    the    p-.jion-    wh«  P-    trav.  11- r-    arc-    d'lind    the 

'..'..•.'••••'.'•  .ir:  '.  in •_'  h«»r-«-  l«v  the  fatal   t-et-e.       I !    i-  forinidaMr 

.  i,     ,.;'  emir  e.  !'iir    it   i-  ipie-t  i-.tiaM--  uh.  ili.-r  tin-    Krave-t 

i;/  -  aiiv  p-i'-r  -fan  '•!:•_' a  _"  i;i>  nt  \\  it  li  a  r«  a!K   daii'/'-roii- 

...:!  -..  i:ii|-  h  .1-  tin-  -  ha--  .       Th'Te    eann-.t    !"•  \  ej-\    mucli  . n- 

,  -landing  u  i'h  a  ritl«-  in   hand  and   killing  all  eh  pliant, 

l;..ti,  i.r  rhiiioc.  p>-,  u  hili-  the  vi'-tim   i-  in    repo-e  ;   and    there 

i/    -!•••  i:i!  va'or  :i'".ut  it.      l.ut  NN e  can  undi-r-tand  the  riithu- 


A    HORSE   IN    TMK    HI'NT. 

niasm  with  wliich  a  man  narrates  such  hunting  adventures  a* 
Baker  and  Oswell  <»r  dimming  had.  A  horse  puts  111!:  into 
the  sports  of  the  tropics.  \\V  rememl>er  a  scene  which 
linker  descrilieH  in  his  "  Nile,"  that  represents  the  perfection 
of  rhiiifxtroH  hunting,  and  the  distinguished  traveller  de- 
wrilxs  the  chase  with  an  enthusiasm  quite  worthy  of  IIH 
theme.  It  was  in  Abyssinia.  He  had  left  his  camp  in  company 
with  a  par'v  of  aggageers,  those  expert  sword-hunters,  whose 
wonderful  dexterity  we  have  mentioned  l>efore,  and  alter  spend- 
ing most  of  the  dav  in  collecting  guru  was  returning,  when  at  a 
most  unexpected  moment  he  discovered  a  fine  brace  of  rhi- 
noceroses asleep  beneath  a  thick  mass  of  bushes ;  handing  hi* 
reins  to  a  follower  he  walked  quietly  to  within  about  thirtv 
vards  of  his  game;  but  before  he  could  take  aim  thev  both 
sprang  suddenly  to  their  feet  with  astonishing  agility,  and  the 
next  instant  one  of  them  charged  straight  at  him.  The  ball  of 
his  rifle  onlv  served  to  turn  the  assailant,  and  the  two  animals 
went  thundering  otV  together;  and  away  went  the  agga<xeers  in 
pursuit.  Mr.  Baker  himself,  springing  into  his  saddle,  pined 
the  chase,  which  we  will  allow  him  to  tell  in  his  own  words; 

u  The  ground  was  awkward  for  riding  at  lull  speed,  a-  it  was 
an  open  forest  of  mimosas,  whic.h  though  wide  apart  were  very 
difficult  to  avoid  owing  to  the  low  crowns  of  spreading  branches  ; 
these,  being  armed  with  fishhook  thorns,  would  have  been 
serious  on  a  collision.  I  kept  the  party  in  view  until  in  about 
a  mile  we  arrived  upon  open  ground.  Here  I  again  applied  the 
spurs,  and  by  degrees  I  crept  up,  always  gaining,  until  at  length 
I  joined  the  aggageers.  Here  was  a  sight  to  drive  a  hunter 
wild  !  The  two  rhinoceroses  were  running  neck  and  neck  like 
ft  pair  of  horses  in  harness,  but  bounding  alon^-  at  a  tremendous 
*pecd  within  ten  yards  of  the  leading  Ilamran.  This  wa-  Taller 
Sherrif,  who,  with  hi-  sword  drawn  and  lii-  ]on_r  hair  living 
wildlv  behind  him,  nr^cd  his  horse  forward  in  the  ra«-e,  amidst 
a  cloud  of  dust  raised  bv  the  two  hu^e  but  active  b-a-t-.  that 
tried  everv  sinew  of  the  horses.  Roder  Sherrif,  with  the  with- 
ered arm,  was  second  :  with  the  reins  hung  over  the  hav.k-lik«- 
claw  which  was  all  that  remained  of  a  hand,  but  with  his  naked 
sword  grasped  in  the  ri^ht.  In-  kept  clo-e  to  hi-  brother,  n  ady 
to  second  his  blow.  Abou  Do  was  third;  his  hair  Hying  in  the 


£10  A    HHIMM'KUrw    Hl'NT. 

wind,  his  he«'l«  da.-hini:  against  the  flanks  of  his  horso,  to  which 
he  shouu-d  in  hi-  excitement  to  ur^c  him  to  the-  front,  while  he 
leamil  f'ruard  with  hi>  lon^  -word,  in  tin-  wild  rneriry  of  tho 
inoiiu-nt,  a-  though  hoping  to  reach  tin-  ^anu1  a^ain-t  all  JM>»I- 
hilitv.  No\v  f.r  tin-  -pur-!  And  as  thc.-r,  vi^orou>ly  applied, 
screwed  an  extra  Mridc  out  of  Tftfl,  1  .-oon  found  myself  in  the 
ruck  "1  nici),  hor.-cs,  and  drawn  .-word-.  Then*  were  -even  of 
n-,  and  pa  — iir/  Almii  I  >",  who-c  face  wore  an  e\|>n->i<>n  of 
aironv  at  finding  that  hi-  hor-e  wa>  failing,  I  (jllickly  ohtained 
a  place  IwtwteM  the  two  brotiiers,  Tuher  and  lloder  Sherrif. 
Tlu-re  had  Ix-cii  a  jealon-y  l«-twcfii  the  two  jtartio  oi  a_Lrua^c«-rs 
and  each  wa-  .-t  riving  to  undo  the  other;  thn-  \\t»\i  I  )o  was 
driven  to  madm---  at  the  -uperi»rit v  u('  Tahi-r'.s  hors*.-,  while  the 
]att<-r,  who  \\ a-  the  H-nowm-d  hunter  of  tin-  trilie.  was  <lctiT- 
iniifd  that  hi-  -word  -h<>uld  IM-  the  jir-t  to  ta>te  hlu^d.  I  tried 
to  |>a->  the  rhiiiix-erii-  »n  inv  lett,-<>  a-  t"  lire  dn-e  into  the 
yh«>nld«-r  ni\'  reinaininir  1'arrd  \\itli  niv  n^ht  hand,  lint  it  \va- 
iinjMi— ilile  to  overtake  the  animal-  and  they  hounded  alon^  \s  ith 
nndiiiiini-h'-tl  -peed.  With  tin-  jjivat'-t  c\crti«>n  of  men  and 
h'>r-e-  Wc  c-iiild  <>nlv  retain  our  po-itmn  within  three  ..r  |«. Hi- 
yard-  nf  their  tail-,  jn-t  out  of  reach  of  the  -w>rd-.  Th ily 

ciiaiu-e   in    the    race  \\  a-   t"    hold    the  pace  until  the  rlmi<>cer<>-e- 

-hollld    IM^'M!    to    i\:l'_r.       The    h-'I-e-    Wel'e    j-rc— ed    to    t  1 1< '   1 1 1 1  Cl'IIIO-l  , 

hut  we  had  aln-adv  run  ali'.ut  two  mile-  and  the  ^anic  >ho\\iil 
no  -i_ru-  of  'ji\iir^r  in.  ( )n  th-v  flew:  .-onietuue-.  over  open 
ground,  or  through  lo\v  hni-h.  whi^-h  trieil  the  h.ir-e-  severely  ; 
th-  u  through  -trip-  ««f  op.-n  fore-t,  uuiil  at  length  the  party  h--- 
Lr:ui  t"  tail  oil'  and  oulv  a  -•!.•<•(  few  kept  their  plac.-.  \\  e  ar- 
riveil  at  th<-  -iiminit  of  a  rid'je  fro  in  which  the  Around  -loped 
in  a  ^'Hile  iii'-linatioii  fir  a'ooiit  a  mile  toward-  lh--  n\-r;  at 
tlii-  l""t  of  thi-  incline  \\a-  a  thi--k.  ihorn\,  nahhilk  jungle,  \'<>r 
udi.li  imp.  u.  tral.Ii-  co\-.  it  t  h--  rhiiioc.-ro-«  -  pr< —.  d  at  their  ut- 
mo-t  -[•  •  d.  V  v<  r  \\a-  ih-  !'••  1"  tt«-r  u'i'"Uiid  l"i'  lln-  lini-h  of  a 
raei- ;  t!i'  -eai'lh  \\a--andv  diit  linn,  and  a-  \\e-a\\  I  In  \\  innilrj- 
po-i  in  tii--  i'i!i_'!'  that  mu-l  r-  I'minat--  tie  hunt,  \\>-  reil.nil>led 
•••Mr  '-\'  r!  i"ii-  to  •!"-••  \\ilh  the  iintla'_r_riii'_f  i_rame.  Sul  t-  man  • 
h<  >!•-'•  j  a  \  •  in.  \\  •  -had  \>-  •  n  for  (went  v  min  nte-  at  a  killing  pace. 
T.  ti-1.  althoU.-h  ii"!  'i  !.i-l  hor-e,  \\a-  -.»,<!  f,r  a  ili-taiM'e,  and  he 
iio-.v  pro\.d  hi-  p"\'.'!'  of  endurance,  ;t-  I  \\:L-  riding  at  ha-t 


"A  HOIISK!  A  IIOKSK!"  «;n 

two  stone  heavier  tlmn  any  of  the  party.  Only  seven  remained ; 
and  \ve  swept  down  the  incline,  Taher  Sherrif  ntill  leading  and 
Abou  I  )<»  the  last  !  1 1  is  h«»rse  was  done,  but  not  the  rider,  for 
springing  to  the  ground  whilu  at  full  speed,  sword  in  hand,  IK: 
forsook  his  tired  horse  and  preferred  his  own  legs ;  he  ran  like 
an  antelope  for  the  first  hundred  yards.  I  thought  he  would 
reallv  pass  us  and  win  the  honor  of  the  first  blow.  It  wa-  of 
no  use,  the  pace  was  too  severe,  and  although  running  wonder- 
fully  he  was  obliged  to  give  wav  to  the.  horses.  Onlv  three  n<iw 
followed  the  rhinoceroses — Taher  Sherrif,  his  brother  lloder  and 
myself.  I  had  been  obliged  to  give  the  second  place  to  iiodcr, 
as  lie  was  a  mere  monkey  in  weight,  but  1  was  a  close  third. 
The  excitement  was  intense.  We  neared  the  jungle  and  the  rhi- 
noceroses began  to  show  signs  of  flagging  as  the  du>t  pulled  up 
before  their  nostrils,  and  with  noses  close  to  the  ground  they 
snorted  as  thev  still  galloped  on.  Oh,  for  a  fresh  horse  !  'A 
horse!  a  horse!  my  kingdom  for  a  horse! '  We  were  within  two 
hundred  yards  of  the  jungle,  but  the  horses  were  all  done.  TeU-1 
reeled  as  I  urged  him  forward;  Roder  pushed  ahead.  We  were 
close  to  the  dense  thorns  and  the  rhinoceroses  broke  into  a  trot  ; 
they  were  done  !  One  moment  more  and  the  sword  fla>hcd  in 
the  sunshine  as  the  rearmost  rhinoceros  disappeared  in  the  thick 
screen  of  thorns  with  a  gash  about  a  foot  lon^r  upon  \\\<  hind- 
quarters.  Taher  Sherrif  shook  his  bloody  sword  in  triumph 
above  his  head,  but  the  rhinoceros  was  gone.  \\  e  were  fairly 
beaten,  regularly  outpaced  ;  but  I  believe  another  two  hundred 
yards  would  have  given  us  the  victory.  '  liravo  !  Taher!'  I 
shouted.  lie  had  ridden  splendidlv,  and  his  blow  had  been 
marvellously  delivered  at  an  extremely  long  reach,  as  he  was 
nearly  out  of  his  saddle  when  he  sprang  forward  to  enable 
the  blade  to  attain  a  cut  at  the  last  moment." 

Mr.  Stanlev  was  not  encouraged  to  put  verv  much  confidence 
in  the  wonderful  stories  of  tropical  hunters  by  his  own  ex- 
perience. He  was  more  fortunate  in  his  assaults  on  the  l>cautiful 
zebras  and  hartbee-ts  and  giralles  than  on  lions,  elephants,  and 
the  rhinoceros.  lie  seemed  formed  tor  managing  men  rather 
than  killing  leasts  ;  he  was  more  of  a  general  than  a  butcher. 
and  lost  nothing  on  that  account  in  the  estimation  of  Dr.  Living- 
stone. There  is  a  sort  of  exhilaration  felt  in  readin  the  narratives 


Gl'J  TIIK    TKMP.K    AT    KWIHAKA. 

of  hold  encounter*  of  men  with  the  feroe:  -u-  mon-'ers  of  thoM 
wild  region-,  Imt  the  man  him-elf  do,  -  not  appear  nohh-r  or 
more  lovelv  in  our  eves  Ut-an-e  he  "  l>a^-  three  lion-  in  one 
dav,"  or  «*4-nd-  a  I >u He!  crashing  through  the -knll  of  an  elephant 
ju-t  in  time  to  -ave  him-elf  from  a  dreadful  death  l.en«-ath  tin, 
mon-ter'-  feet.  Living-tone  wa-  no  hunter,  luit  hi-  name  will 
he  a  ma'_rie  word  in  our  home-,  aroii-ing  n-  to  noli!-'  action  ami 
loftv  connive  when  all  the  catalogue  of  da-hin^  -port-men  are 
forgotten.  It  i-  a  relief  in  the  midst  of  the  wild ne>-  to  think  of 
the  ipiiet  home-like  conversations  which  U-^niled  the  evenings 
in  t  IIP  ramp  of  these  two  men.  ( )ne  of  them  l>et'er  informed 
ahoiit  the  dark  continent  o!'  Africa  than  anv  other  living  man, 
and  accustomed  t->  'jrave  reflection  on  all  that  he  -aw  there:  the 
other  fre-h  from  travelling  the  world  over,  with  the  careful  eye 
and  retentive  memorv  which  di-tin^m-h  men  whose  lni-ine-s 
it  i-  to  keep  the  world  informed  al>out  it-elf.  Sometime-  there 
were  hard,  Irving  experience-  too.  Mr.  Stanlev  -ufl'  red  fre- 
iiiieiitlv  with  fever  ;  once  or  t  wiee  t  he v  lack <  <  hn-ud  and  \\  can i-d 
of'  wild  mea'.  And  -o  with  varvin-j  experience-  th.-\  jnir-ii<il 
th-ir  march,  helping  each  oilier  witli  kind  word-  and  deed-,  until 
thev  came  am-uiL'  the  weli-ome  scene-  of  I  nvanvemlie. 

1 1  wa-  on  the  1  M !,  of  I-'e!ii'iiarv.  the  tit'i  v  third  da\-  fp  >m  1  "iiji, 
that  thev  entefiil  the  vallev  of  Kwihara,  with  Mi.:-  u:it'ur!e-l 
and  -jun-  tiring  triumphant  !v.  And  it  wa- a  proud  moan  nt  )or 
the  voting  I'-ader  ->!'  the  Herald  expedition  \\h--n  In-  v.  •  !, -..nied 
I  >r.  Living-tone  t->  hi-  hoii-e.  Since  the  dav  that  h--  pa:t-d 
with  the  Aral"-.  -;ck  and  almo-t  wi-arv  (•)'  hi-  life,  -trenjtheiied 
onlv  liv  the  in-jiirat  ion  o|  hi-  nu--i»n,  he  had  trav«  !!.  >|  nior-' 
than  t  welve  hundred  mile-,  and  ju-t  one  hundred  and  t  hirt  v  one 
dav-  had  elat»-ed  ;  hilt  what  viei--itnd- •-  were  cpr\  d>  -1  in  tho-> 
dav-,  and  how  had  he  Keen  favored  hv  the  I'roviili-nce  that  ruleth 
over  all! 

Some  of  I  >r.  Living-tone'-  own  -t-.n  -  \\-re  i  n  wait  MIL'  l-'i'  hii'i 
at  1  ii  van  v«n  i  !>e,  and  lar^e  •  jirint  it  ie-  \\  h:-  !i  ha  1  1 "  •  n  1--I  t  I  h-  P- 
l.v  Mr.  Stanley.  It  wa-  ind---d  an  a!«!i':da'i!  fe\\ar-l  l'-:'  all  !  h-1 
t-.;l  t-.  ---,.  th--  happv  fa--e  «.f  the  LM-- -at  Irav.  !!-  r.  '!"!,-•  h-.:i-e  \\as 
•\  jial-i'e  --impaf'd  \\ith  the  hu!  in  v.  !,;-h  h"  \\a-  li\in^f  at 
I'jiji.  The  -[.,r.  r- .oiii-  \\-  r.  lull  --t'  th-  jo.  d  thiiiL'-  of  ti,:-  iiti-, 
1,.  -.-I'-  '  loth,  Ix-ad-,  wire  and  the  thoii-cind  and  om-  inn»  -  lim--ntu 


"THE  MISSION  ACCOMPLISHED."  C13 

and  paraphernalia  of  travel  with  which  Mr.  Stanley  ha<l  laden 
ono  hundred  and  fifty  men  at  Ilagamoyo.  Then;  were  seventv- 
four  loads  of  miscellaneous  tiling-,  and  the  m«><t  valuable  of 
thoHC  were,  to  IK-  turned  over  to  I)r.  Livingstone,  \\hai  a 
change,  what  a  deliverance,  what  a  god,-end  to  that  weary, 
anxious  heart  was  the  reali/ation  of  this  assistance?  Now  he 
could  think  of  the  Nile  again  ;  he  could  plan  hi.-  route  ;  he  could 
form  all  his  plans;  he  could  write  his  letters  to  his  friends  in 
Kngland  telling  them  what  he  proposed  to  do,  for  the  means 
were  in  his  hand.  lie  was  not  a  beggar;  he  was  independent 
once  more. 

Mr.  Stanley's  mission  was  now  accomplished,  and  his  duty 
(•ailed  him  homeward.  The  noble  man  who  had  sent  him  forth 
so  benevolently  was  waiting  for  a  report  ;  the  world  was  waiting 
to  be  relieved  of  its  suspense  about  Livingstone.  The  goods, 
boxes  and  bales  were  overhauled.  They  had  not  been  inviolate 
entirely;  of  course  the  thieves  had  levied  their  tax  ;  some  of  the 
choicest  articles  were  missing.  The  notorious  white  ants  too 
— those  astonishing  little  sawyers  of  Africa — had  been  ;it  work; 
they  had  destroyed  a  number  of  the  gun-stocks.  Probably  the 
most  welcome  articles  in  the  whole  lot  which  had  been  -cut  him 
were  four  flannel  shirts  from  his  daughter,  and  two  pairs  of 
splendid  walking-shoes  which  had  been  very  thoughtfully  pro- 
vided by  his  "  friend  Waller."  Mr.  Stanley  placed  at  his  dis- 
posal abundance  of  beads  and  cloth  and  win1,  etc.,  etc.  So  far 
the  traveller  was  fixed  ;  there  was  one  thing  remaining — men, 
sueh  men  as  could  not  be  obtained  in  Pnvanyembe.  All  the 
wealth  of  the  world  could  avail  him  nothing  without  nun.  lie 
needed  at  least  fiftv  men  to  earrv  this  uTeat  pocket-book  and 
provision  basket,  and  these  men  should  be  well  armed.  Mr. 
Stanley  undertook  to  send  these  men  so  equipped  from  Zanzibar. 

The  doctor  had  finished  his  letters,  and  all  tiling.-  were  readv 
for  the  departure.  Besides  the  letter.-,  he  had  carefully  packed 
his  journals  of  the  past  years  in  a  box  ".-ealcd  with  live  >ea!>  ; 
the  impression  on  them  those  of  an  American  u'"ld  coin,  an  anna, 

half'  anna,  and  cake  of  paint  with  roval  arm positively  not  to 

be  opened.''  The  Arab.-  had  made  their  farewell  call-,  and  at 
night  the  native  followers  of  Singiri  gathered  about  the  tembe 
to  give  the  American  a  farewell  dance.  He  .-a\>,  "  it  wa.-  a  \\iki 


f,U  THK    FARFIWF.LL    EXTKKTAINMKST. 

srrne.  Four  drums  were  on  duty,  and  tin-  weird  eircl:  was 
formed  :ilx>ut  the  men  whose  office  it  was  to  make  the  furious 
music.  Boinlniy,  as  ever  comical,  nt'V»-r  ><>  mm-h  at  home  as 
when  in  the  dance  of  the  Mrima,  had  his  head  adorned  with  hi> 
master'*  water-bucket."  C'howpereh,  nnotlier  of  Stanley's  fol- 
lower-, joined  the  eirele  with  a  goatskin  wrapj>ed  ;il)(.!ii  lu>  he-ad, 
und  brandished  an  axe  wildly  as  lie  moved  anum^  the  throng  ; 
Harako  flourishing  a  spear  ;  Mabruki,  the  "  l>ull-he-.tii«  d,"  enteriil 
into  th<-  spirit  of  the  occasion  with  the  tread  ->f  an  elephant  : 
Ulimcngo  too  w:u>  conspicuous,  with  a  i;un,  looking  a-  fcriM-iuti^ 
its  po~>il)le;  two  others  of  the  caravan  were  l-rjinv  t  lie  drum- 
mers, baek  to  back,  ambitiously  shaking  their  In  rK  :it  the  >t;ir-  ; 
while  Asami,  the  embodiment  of  j^iant  -tivnjth,  a  towerini; 
Titon,  dealt  desjxjraU*  blows  on  the  inoffensive  air  with  the  butt 
end  of  his  gun,  and  to  finish  the  «-ene,  Mr.  Stanley  hiniM-lf 
sprang  Into  the  circle  and  performed  th«-  "  li<:ht  t;iiita.>ti--  I<M-" 
to  the  inten-e  delight  of  his  brav<-.  \\  ln-n  t!i<-  xvarlikr  inu-if 
ended,  a  second  >eene  was  produ«-«-d.  Tin-  (  'hoi-airti-  dr«>pt  ;>u  hi> 
kne<^  and  dipp«-<l  his  head  two  or  tlnvr  tim<-  in  an  «-\cavatii'U 
in  tin-  ground,  and  the  choir,  also  on  their  knees,  n-jicatcd  in 
dohfoii-  l»w<  the  la-t  \\ord-  of  a  -low  and  -olrinn  retrain: 


Chnr'i'}<i'.      T"  tin-  h:i|'|'V  i-'.i:i'U  mi  tin-  M-.\, 

\Vl..-r.-  III.-  l-a.i-.  in--  |.|.'lit>,  .,ti-..|i-(,h! 
Ch.nr.      <  )h-..h-..h  '   «  ln-n-  tin-  |M-;I.|,  ;tf  |.|.-nty, 


l'r,,in  ,,.ir  li-.tii.---,  \.-r\ 
'^.nr.—  I'n.lii  ..ur  ii'.ni.  -.  "li  " 


nrnT*f.      Aii'l  «••  li  iv       i  .1  n.i  !  .....  1  f-.r  -.<-ry  |..n(f 
\V,-  iif  h.ill  ".irv.-l.  ..I,    l-,r   «.  |..|i^( 

H.ih.i   '-iiuiri  ' 
Chmr.-  F,.r  -•  \.-r>    |..n 

Il.di  i   >i!i.'ir;,  "-in.-!  n  ! 


"THE   SEARCH    EXPEDITION."  615 

C'livrtiyiti.- -Miriiiiilin  hits  um\r  to  wur 
To  flight  iitfiiinst  tin-  A  rah*: 
Tin-  Ar.il>*  anil  W.ur.'u.iii.i 
Have  ifiinr  In  tiicht   MirainlMt! 
Choir.—  Oh-i.h-oli  I  tn  liifht   Miriiinho  ! 

oli,  Mir.mili..!    Minimi*)! 
< >li,  to  tiijlii   Mintmlio ! 

Cfiormjuf.  —  P.nt  the  whitt*  man  will  tn:ikr  ii"  ulit'l  ; 

lie  is  i;oiii','  home  !      Fur  In-  is  ifoini:  hoinft, 
Ami  In-  will  make  us  irhi'1 !     Sfi-sh-sh  '. 
Choir. — The  \viiito  in;in  will  makr  us  trl:ul,  sli-hh-ah  '. 

S|, sh-h-h     sh-sh-h-h-h-h! 

I'in-iii  —inn  — um-iii-iii  --•»!,  ! 

Tlui^  ended  the  singular  farewell  of  the  Wunyiimwr/i.  Tlu-re 
\vas  onlv  one  1 1  u  >re  dav.  On  the  morning  of  the  1  I  tit  of  March 
the  Herald  expedition  set  out  on  its  return  to  Zanzibar.  The 
final  farewell  was  taken,  and  1  >r.  Livingstone  returned  t«>  the 
hou-e  that  seemed  now  desolate  indeed,  while  his  friend  and 
helper  marched  awav. 

To  reach  Zanzibar,  secure  followers  f!>r  Dr.  Livingstnnp  and 
sail  for  England,  was  the  work  ofabinit  two  months  and  a  half. 
He  met  at  Bagamoyo  a:i  Kn^lish  expedition,  commanded  hv 
Lieutenant  Ilenn,  with  \vhom  wa<  a  son  of  Hi1.  Living-tune, 
Mr.  Oswald  Livingstone.  These  gentlemen  Ix-ini;  a->nr«-d  ot' 
the  relief  of  the  doctor,  abandoned  their  enterprise.  Mr.  O--.vahl 
Livingstone  at  first  entertained  the  pnrpo.-e  ot'  accepting  the 
charge  of  the  caravan  to  be  sent  bade  bv  Mr.  Stanlev.  but  after- 
ward declined.  A  joyous  greeting  awaited  Mr.  Stanlev  in  /ai:/i- 
bar,  and  before  many  days  he  had  tlu-  pleasure  ot'  S'-ein^  lil'tv- 
t-even  men  and  bovs  in  marching  trim  ;  conspicuous  among  them 
were-  the  men  who  had  attended  Mr.  Stanlev  himself.  Tln-v 
had  become  very  much  attached  to  the  doctor  and  wriv  ivadv 
enough  to  return  to  him. 

The  parting  address  of  Mr.  Stanlev  to  this  little  armv  illti*- 
t rates  hapjtily  the  successful  method  of  dealing  \vith  a  da—  oi' 
men  of  infinite  importance  to  the  traveller.  When  thev  \\vre 
about  to  depart,  Mr,  Stanlev,  standing  before  them,  >aid  : 

"  Men,  von  are  now  about  to  return  to  I  nyauyembe. 
'  ijreat  ma.-ter.'  You  know  him  ;  vmi  kno\v  he  i-  a  Lfom 
and  ha- a  kind  heart.  He  i.-  dillerent  from  me;  he  \\  i 
treat  von  as  1  have  done.  P»nt  von  km>w  1  have  reward' 


l*>  JF.AI.<>r-Y    AND    IVUKWLITY. 

all-— how  I  have  in.:!.-  y.«:i  :i'l  rich  in  doth  and  inonev.  Vwil 
know  h"W  \vhi-n  \  "U  U-havcd  yoiirsrlviw  well  I  w;i>  vuiir  frieml. 
I  ._MV.  vo-.i  plenty  to  -at  an<l  plrntv  t'>  wear.  When  v<»ii  were 
si--k  I  l«Miked  after  you.  I  i' 1  \vas  >o  <JIMM!  to  you,  the  «;ivat  tna>l«T 
nil!  in-  much  m»n-  -".  II,.  ha-  a  p!ea-ant  voice  aii'l  -jH-ak* 
kind.  \\  hen  did  yon  CV-T  s«v  him  lift  hi.-  hand  a^ain-t  an 
otl'-ii'l-  r '.'  \\  hen  \-nii  \\crr  wi'-krd  hi  did  MC!  -peak  !<>  vmi  in 
an^'-r:  In-  -j>"k»-  t»  \"ii  in  tiiin-.-  «if  x.rruu.  N<»w  \\ill  \-«m 
jir-iin:--  nn-  that  y..;i  \\i!l  (lillow  him — <!••  what  he  trlN  \cti, 
•  >1  >•••.•  him  in  all  thin-j^  and  nut  ilf>iT!  him'.'" 

•  \\'.  will!  \\«-  will,  my  ma.-t'T  !  "  the  m.-n  all  cried  fcrvcntlv. 
I  lu'ii  ca;ii«-  the  haiid-~ha!;iii_r,  and  the  cara\'an  \\  a>  mi  it.-  wav  tti 
I  "iiyaiiyem!»e.  .\iid  Mr.  Stanley  -t«x.d  wad-hiiiL:  the  uri'"at.  la/v 
dii'i'.v,  -ailing  r-lowly  aern--  the  i-haiuu-1.  He  had  lini-luil  hi- 
work.  Mr.  iJeMiiett  lia.l  .-aid:  "Tlieuld  man  mav  IM-  in  \\ant; 
tak"  i-nuii_rli  with  vmi  l»  \\>-\\>  him  -hi>:i'd  he  r,-. jiiir,-  it.  ();' 
ci.il!'-"  v.iii  \\iM  ae;  (.!i  vi.nr  <i\sn  j»lan-.  and  du  \\li.it  \  mi  think 
he-t  —  i:i  I  I!M>  l.l\-!N«.-Ii»M;."  1 1,  had  i^nnd  [.ivin--t.'iie  ; 
fuiini)  him  in  \\ant  ;  ha<l  helped  him.  \\'hen  he  i-aelnd  Africa 
h"  had  1-iiind  "He  reli,-f  e\pediti«>n  then  .  '  >:inT-  had  failed  - 
t!u-  one  flule.l.  \\  h.  n  he  came  lack  he  t'uiind  aimihcr  -tailing 
in  — it  wa-  no  !nii_'« T  ii'eded.  It  had  liecii  i'e-.  r\'id  I'M]-  an  indi- 
vidual Am.Tieaii  !u  lit  i. lit  the -itcci--fu!  e\pedit  i"ii.  and  aii"t!n-r 
individual  Am.-rican  tn  had  i:  !•>  the  d>  !i\'<  rail'-.  ,if  an  Miejli-h- 
ma:i.  Private  eiit<Tpri-e  had  -tepped  furward,  uii'iiliciii-d,  and 
i-.-lieved  the  •.ti-jH-n-e  ,,f  the  reading  \\^rM.  And  m»\\  t!i.-  ea-e 
>:""!  t!i'i-:  I  he  di-t iii'jiii-heil  travi-Ili-r,  prnv;d«il  ui'h  e\-erv 
ei.!!i:.i|!t  '.\a-  -ittiiM  at  I  nvativetnlie.  dr.a\\;n_'  !:i-  chart-  and 
an M!I_MII_'  hi-  ii-it.--  |i.r  that  uhi'-h  !,••  tni-!i-d  \\i-nld  lie  the 

eiM\n;;i_'     |.,']|||.v    .•('    h.-     III'-.         A    -tr-'ll.:     a!.d     !il'!:'lll     c.lfa\'atl 

w  t-  •  ':i  .'  -  '.\av  rr  i  -i-rvi-  him  ;  i-vi  r\   man  hind  I"!1  \\\«  lull  \  <  .11  -. 
I  !r  -••  !  iej-  •.•..'•••  _•  i  .  .11   1,1  ill.-  u  i  if  Id   in   Ini  i  id  n  1 1-  <  •'   IH\\  -pai>ei  -, 


ti:--  :.  !    ••'.     /.  i../:  i .  ir    l'.r  a   dj;|>.  l!nnkin_r   \\.'h    j"V   and   iMa!l 

T  i:d-  .!ii    had   IK -en  a  li!  e  t«  i  •  In,  and    jn-t   l»  _'ililiin^  to 

find     -H'     '.iii'    1:1    ;i:i_'ia    ;•  •!!-  i  •  -.',  ai  d    a    |-M!> ••:  -  ;•  «\  i-rn m-  nt    and 
an   iii   •••!•!.•    i-    ••.<•'!<  I   '.s .  i  .•  |  ,| . .  IM  i-inj-  ti  >r  him. 

i1        i-    .1    .  i!-it     I-    him    that.    h'i\'y,r    th-    Mnjii-h 


IIOMK-UFE    AT    UNYAN VKMHK.  ft] 7 

geographers  and  the  public  generally  might  regard  tin-  maMi-r. 
that  ho  carried  in  his  mind  and  heart  unquestionable  av-nran<-«-~ 
of  the  appreciation  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  and  In-  knew  \\cll  i\\.\'. 
he  hail  in  his  possession  documents  which  would  convince  ev<  n 
theoretical  geographers  that  he  had  finished  his  work  in  a 
manner  IxToniing  a  man. 

The  home-lite  at  I'nvanvembe  was  undistiirl>cd  hv  the  ridi- 
cule with  which  the  reports  of  Mr.  Stanley's  .-iicee.-s  had  li.t  n 
received,  and  he  knew  it.  The  picture  of  the  old,  self-forgetting, 
|H.T?-evoring,  noble  man  in  the  tembe  of  Kwihara,  comfortable 
and  hopeful,  was  enough,  We  have  seen  enough  of  that  I  >.- 
vanvcmbo  home,  of  the  contents  of  its  storeroom,  the  cou  -,  1<>\\  ;- 
sin-op,  and  the  faithful  servants,  to  enable  n-  to  understand  h«>-y 
pleasantly  a  man  with  habits  or  fancies  suited  to  t!ie  latitude 
may  spend  a  few  months  quite  pleasantly,  particularly  when  lu- 
ll as  so  recently  obtained  release  from  tbnr  or  five  years  of  un- 
paralleled fatigues,  deprivations  and  harassment*. 

There  was  not  much  in  the  life  of  Dr.  Livingstone  dm  in/ 
those  months  calling  for  our  notice  now.  Such  observations  <•;' 
the  country  and  people  as  we  find  in  his  journal  have  been  i'»r  •- 
stalled  by  the  travellers  whom  we  have  found  preceding  him 
there.  Much  of  his  time  was  employed  in  calculations,  \\lii. -I; 
would  be  found  very  unsatisfactory  to  the  general  reader.  Th'-n 
there  were  davs  in  which  he  occupied  him-e!f  with  uroupiiiL: 
various  reports  which  he  had  gathered  concerning  the  country 
into  which  he  proposed  to  >^n— reports  which  he  did  not  live  to 
confirm.  None  of'  them  were  satisfactory  to  him  ;  it  iv<|iiiiv<! 
the  clearest  and  most  indisputable  evidence  to  >ati-fv  linn  i-n 
anv  point  of  importance  or  general  inten-t.  lie  surveyed  per- 
haps more  of  the  great  watershed  of  the  continent  than  air-' 
other  traveller,  vet  he  savs  frankly; 

4v  I  n  reference  to  this  Nile  source  I  have  been  kept  in  |>»  n-i-;  ua: 
doubt  and  perplexity.  I  know  too  much  to  be  po.-itivr.  (Irt;!* 
Lualaba,  or  Lualubbif,  as  Manvuema  -av.  mav  turn  out  to  be 
the  ( 'onu'o  and  Xile,  a  shorter  river  al':cr  all.  The  lountrtin- 
flowing  north  and  south  seem  in  favor  of  i;-  bcin^  tin-  Nile. 
Great  westing  is  in  favor  of  the  ('OIILTO.  It  would  be  comfortu:>!>' 
to  be  positive  like  Baker.'' 

There  were  questions,  however,  about  which  he  was  iiu'iv  dt-- 


f.JS  LIVINGSTONES    PEEPEtT   SOLICITUDE. 

eid.-d.  He  had  studied  the  country,  its  stetsons,  climate,  soil, 
vegetation,  its  binls,  animal-,  and  general  marketable  produce 
verv  thoroughly.  And  he  had  studied  the  jx-ople;  he  knew  the 
evil-  which  oppressed  them,  and  the  possibilities  which  were 
undeveloped  in  (heir  ntile  characters.  Alx»ut  the>e  things  he 
coiiM  -p.  ak  po-itivelv.  And  hi-  mind  was  continually  dwelling 
••!i  whatever  -'-em'-d  encouraging  to  those  enterprises  which 
looked  to  the  moral  elevation  of  the  people.  He  hail  been  coni- 
|»eJled  to  -urivtidcr  hi-  long-cherished  -chetne  of  himself  estab- 
li-hing  a  great  central  mi  — ion  in  the  country.  The  providence. 
which  he  lx-liev.il  wa-  guiding  him  had  assigned  him  another 
ta-k,  luit  it  wa-  hi-  delight  to  mark  the  wav  for  hi-  brethren 
whom  he  hoped  would  follow  him.  Hi-  mind  wa-  much  on 
thi-  matter,  and  it  i-  certainly  mo-t  encouraging  to  those  who 

have  'lia  ivd  with  him  the   ( 'liri-t-likc  solicitude   for  tin nvcr- 

-ion  of  Atri'-a  to  (  'hn-t  that  all  hi-  trvmg  experience-  had  not 
diminished  either  hi-  /«-al  «r  hoju-fulncss  in  that  great  work. 
We  kti"\v  that  hi-  an-  n<'t  the  \\.ird-  »f  a  novice,  an  nnwi-e  cn- 
thu-ia-t.  but  of  a  deliberate,  well-informed  and  -inc.-re  man. 
I!--  wa-  anxio'i-  that  there  might  be  no  diminution  of  mi--ionary 
ell'irf  in  Africa,  and  -ndi  note-  a-  tin-  following  \\tll  be  helpful 
and  in-pinng  to  tho-e  who  1..-1  tin-  great  work  laid  on  th'-ir 
heart-  : 

"  Manv  part-  of  thi-  interior  land  pre-.-nt  mo-t  inviting  \>r»-- 
p.-. •!-  for  well--u-taiin-d  etlorts  of  private  benevolence;  Karag'le. 
tor  in-taiice,  with  it-  intelligent  friendly  chief'  |\nniain\  ika 
iSpeke-  Uumanika i,  and  Hoiiganda,  with  if-  tei-ming  popula- 
tion, rain,  and  friendly  chief',  who  could  ea-ilv  be  -wa\e.|  l.v  an 
prud'-ni  mi  — lonarv.  The  evaiigi-ii-t  mu-t  not  de- 
foreign  -npport  other  than  an  iw-ea-ional  -npplv  of 
l« -ad-  and  calico;  coll.-.-  i-  indigenoij-,  and  -o  i-  -njar-cane 
\\  h"ii  d-  tamed  by  ulcerate.]  t'-«  t  iii  Manviicma.  1  made  -u.rar 
\i:  |Hiiindtng  the  can.-  in  tic-  comniou  \\. ...<], -n  ni"!'tar  »\'  ihi; 
co'intrv,  --jii'-'/ing  "Mt  tin-  jui.-e  \-er\  hard  and  boiling  it  till 
thi.-l.  ;  t'i'  .I'i'.t  if  had  '\a-  a  lat.-nt  aciditv,  for  \\hich  1  had  no 

ii'-.  a'. d  i!  -o. ,n  all  ('•  me •!)».  d.  I  -a<\  -ujar  att--r\\aid-  at 
I  :•  mad'  in  'In-  -aim-  -A  iv,  and  tin?  k.-pt  f..r  month-.  \\'h.at 
a:i  1  ri'-e  ar«  r'u!tival'-d  b\  th«'  Aral'-  in  all  thi"  ii|i!and  region; 
ill--  o'llv  thing  a  iii!--!"iiar\  n.-«-d-  in  order  to  -ecu re  an  abundant 


sf(i(ii;srjo.\.s  TO  MISSION  A  in  MS.  r^'« 

supply  is  to  follow  the  Aral)  advice  us  to  the  proper  -'-H-OII  for 
sowing.  Pomegranates,  guuv:is,  lemons  and  orange*  uiv  abi'n- 
dant  in  t  'nvanyemlM' ;  mangoes  flourish,  and  grape-vines  an- !><•- 
ginning  to  !»<•  cultivated  ;  papaws  grow  everywhere.  Onion*, 
nulishes,  pumpkins  and  watermelons  prosper,  and  -<>  would 
most  KurojM-an  vegetable's,  it'  the  proper  seasons  were  selected 
for  planting,  and  the  most  important  point  attended  in  in  bring- 
ing the  seeds.  These  mu-t  never  be  soldered  in  tin-  or  put  in 
close  lx).\es  ;  a  process  of  sweating  takes  place  when  thev  are 
conlineil,  as  in  a  l>o.\  or  hold  of  the  ship,  and  the  power  of  vego- 
tating  is  destroyed  ;  hut  garden  seeds  put  up  in  common  brown 
paper,  and  hung  in  the  cabin  on  the  voyage,  and  n»t  expo-cd  to 
the  direct  ravs  of  the  sun  afterwards,  I  have  found  to  he  as 
good  as  in  England. 

"  True,"  lie  continues,  "'  it  would  he  a  sort  of  Rohin.-on  ( Yu-oo 
life,  hut  with  abundant  materials  for  surrounding  one'- -elf  with 
eomfbrts,  and  improving  the  improvable  amon«_r  the  natives. 
Clothing  would  mpiire  but  small  expense;  four  suits  of  tweed 
served  me  comfortably  for  five  vearsl!)  Woollen  clothing  is 
best;  if  all  wool  it  wears  long  and  prevents  chills.  The  tem- 
perature here  in  the  beginning  of  winter  ranges  from  <>'2  to  75° 
Fahr.  In  summer  it  seldom  goes  abo\\-  ,s(  I  ,  a>  the  eoiintrv 
generally  is  from  three  to  lour  thousand  feet  above  tin-  >ea." 

As  for  the  people  inhabiting  this  central  region,  although  he 
saw  them  under  the  vitiating  influence  of  the  .-lave-trad'-.  In-  has 
recorded  his  conviction  that  there  is  nothing  in  their  cii-titins  or 
characters  which  ought  to  discourage  mis.-ionarv  elliii-t. 

It  has  been  suppose*!  on  the  testimonv  of  other  traveller-  that 
these  tribes  are  greatlv  wanting:  in  natural  atleetion,  and  that 
even  mothers  are  accustomed  to  sell  their  children.  The  doctor 
refers  tn  this  statement  as  follows: 

'•  S| eke  at  Kasenge  islet  inadvertentlv  made  a  L">  ueral  >!ate- 
rneut  thu-:  '  The  mothers  of  these  savage  neonlc  have  intinitelv 

1  I 

le-xs  allection  than  manv  <avan'e  beasts  nf  mv  aei|Mani!aiiee.  I 
have  seen  a  mother  hear.  Called  bv  frequent  -h.it-.  <>!,-;  j'.Kitelv 
m«vet  her  death  bv  repeatedly  returning  under  tire  \\hil-t  en- 
deavoriULT  t"  rescue  her  VOUULT  from  the  i^rasp  of  mtrudniLr  nieii. 
lint  here,  for  a  simple  loin-cloth  or  two.  human  mother-  ea^er'v 
exchanged  their  little  oflspring,  delivering  them  into  perpetual 


62'J  SPKKK  <X»I:KI:<TI:I>. 

U'lidu^c  to  my  In-lnch  »>ldiers.' — >;"/.'•,  pp.  -;-t,  -•"••"».  For  tin1 
-a!»e  of  tin1  little  >ti>rv  of  •  ;i  hear  mother/  Speke  made  a  jjen- 
eral  a»-ertion  mi  a  verv  >jnall  and  exceptional  foundation. 
Frvuueiit  iii'|iiirie-  ammii;  the  n>o-t  intelligent  and  lar-travellitl 
Arah>  failed  to  find  eoiifinnation  of  this  chiKl-scllinj:,  except  in 
tin-  \vrv  rare  <-a-c  of' a  eliild  rutting  the  njiper  front  teeth  hefore 

the  tinder,  and  heeail-c  till-  child  i-  helirVed  ti>  he  'inoiko' 
(dn/iit -,'•</,  and  certain  to  hrinir  death  into  thr  familv.  It  i- 
ealled  an  A  rah  child,  and  -old  to  the  lir-t  A  rah,  or  even  left  at 
hi-  il«M»r.  1  in-  i-  the  onlv  <-a-e  the  Aral*-  know  ot  child-selling. 
Speke  had  onlv  two  l>e]n.-h  soldiers  with  him.  and  the  idea  that 
thev  loaded  tliein.-elves  \\ith  infant.-  at  on«-e  -tamp-  the  tale  a- 
laiiiiloii-.  lie  niav  have  -eeii  one  -old,  an  extrcinelv  rare  and 
exceptional  <-u-e  ;  hut  the  mien-nee-  drawn  are  jn«t  like  that  <>t 
the  Freiirliinaii  who  thought  the  l-"nj;li-h  -o  partial  to-nienle  in 
Noveinh'-r,  that  thev  niijht  he  .-mi  -n-pend«tl  t'roni  tn-e-  in  the 
coniinoii  hi_'h\\a\-. 

"  In  i-r"--niLC  Tani;anvika  three  -e\-.-ral    tune-    1   \\a-  detained 

lit     the     J-h-t     Ka-rll'je  :i'  .nut    tell    Week-    III    all.        <>ll    eaell    oeea-H'H 

A  rah  trader-  were  pn--ent,  all  ea-^er  (••  hnv  -la\'e-,  hut  none 
\\epe  oti'.-ri  d,  and  the\-  a.— nrcd  ine  ;liat  thev  had  n«  \  er  -eeii  the 
hahit  aliened  to  i-\i-t.  h\  Speke.  l!i..ii-h  thev  had  heard  of  the 
'unhiekv'  ea~.  -  referred  to.  I'.v  rv  one  ha-  known  <>i  \»»>\' 
little  l'.itind!in_r-  in  Mn niand,  hut  o-,ir  tnotlier.-  an-  not  cn-ditcd 
with  le--  al]«-<-;ion  than  -he-hear-." 

lie  had  -Midied  tin-  en-i.,ui-  and  di-po-ition-i  of  the  people  a- 
a  <  'hri-i  ian  t«  aeher,  in  t  he  inter,  -t  «\  '  'hri-t  ianit\  .  \\ ;!  h  -peeial 
re f. -n- in •••  to  t  he  IH:--!O:I  \\  i  irk  ,  and  h--  \\  rite-  :  "  1  would  -av  to 
nii--i"ii:irie-,  '  'mile  on.  hrrthn  n,  I"  the  n  .d  heathen.  ^  "ii  have 
no  id«  a  h" .'.  1  'fa  V--  \  "M  ar--  111!  \  "'i  Irv.  L'-avin^  the  e.  >a.-t  and 
d'  voting  \  on  i  -.•!  f  he.u'1 1 !  \-  in  ;  lie  -ava-jr-,  a-  t  h.  \  an-  «-all'  d,  \  "ii 
\vili  tii.d  uith  fotii-1  dravvha'-k"  and  \\  ii-kei|  ne~-e-  a  \'er\  '_'i''at 
d>  .1!  to  .id I iill'e  and  ]«.\  . •.  M:in\  -tateini  ii'  -  a!  >•  'lit  t  h-  in  n  siiil'* 
c>  1 1,'.  i  in  it  .•  in.  ^l  i  MI  s\  :1 1  ii'  v<  r  -ee  \\  i  M  IP  n  -i  1  i  i  n.:  1  h-  i  r  i  n  iant-  ; 
A  r.»i  -  !.•••.•;•  il.il.  nor  ha\  ••  1 .  \  n  a  --•  rl  i"ii  i  it  tin-  kind  \\  ..- 
1 1 1.  r  !•  i.i  i-!.  1 1. 1  .  In  tin-  ei  .MI'  ••(  ]i  MI  \\  i-  ti  '  \  a--  M  1 1  1 1  that 

Iii.ur.    •  M     "  !!'     ['•    f !'  r-   \\  ill     !"•     | '!'  a--  -d     I"     ha\  •     '  !.•      |>l  i\  i!e:;e  o! 
r-adinj     !••!      '!,.;u-i!.'-      I  »r.     I .'.  \  i  n.:  -1-  -n-  '-     ".\d\i--r     to     M  i - 
»"i.ii  »:  .•  -."  a  i. -I     it     :  -    dii<      I"    h!ni     tin!     on    - 1 5.  !i   a  -n  i  •!•  <  t    hi-  1  »• 
J  i  •  a !  d  in   in-  o  ,v  ;  i   \\  •  1 1 1 1   .       I :    i  •  ;  i  -  I  <  1 1 1  o  \\  -  : 


TIN:  WAY  oi'KN.  (\2{ 

'•  NII  great  difficulty  would  be  encountered  in  est;ibli>liing  a 
(  'liri.-tian  minimi  a  hundred  niilt-s  or  >o  from  tin-  ea-t  coa.-t. 
The  |M-i  mission  of  the  Sultan  of  Xan/.ibar  would  be  n«-ci--arv, 
because  all  the  tribes  of  any  intelligence1  claim  relation-hip,  or 
have  relations  with  him  ;  the  Banyamwc/i  even  (  -all  theniM-lv^ 
his  subjects,  and  so  do  others.  His  jn-rmis-sion  would  he  n-adilv 
granted,  if  resj>eetfully  applied  for  through  the  Kngli-h  c«in-ul. 
The  Suaheli,  with  their  present  ajiathv  on  religious  mailer-;, 
would  !M'  no  obstacle.  ('are  to  speak  jiolitelv,  and  to  -h<>\r 
kindness  to  them,  would  not  he  lo.-t  labor  in  the  general  etl^et 
of  the  mission  on  the  comitrv,  but  all  discussion  on  the  belief 
of  the  Moslems  should  be  avoided;  thev  know  little  about  it. 
Emigrants  from  Muscat,  IVr.-ia,  and  India,  who  at  pre.-ent  po— 
sess  neither  influence  nor  wealth,  would  eagerly  seixe  anv  formal 
or  ollensive  denial  of  the  authority  of  their  prophet  to  Jim  their 
own  bij^otrv,  and  arouse  that  of  the  Suaheli.  A  few  now  a>- 
sume  an  air  of  superiority  in  matters  of  worship,  and  would 
fain  take  the  place  of  Mnllams  or  doctors  of  the  law.  bv  ^iviiiir 
authoritative  dicta  as  to  the  times  of  prayer;  positions  to  be 
observed;  lucky  and  unlucky  days;  usin<r  «-al»ali.-tic  >i^n«  ; 
telling  fortunes;  finding  from  the  Koran  when  an  attack  mav 
be  made  on  any  enemy,  etc.;  but  this  i.-  done  onlv  in  the  field 
with  trading  parties.  At  Zan/.ibar  the  regular  Mullams  r-uper- 
se<le  them. 

"  No  olijection  would  be  made  to  teaching  the  natives  (»f  the 
conntrv  t<>  read  their  own  languages  in  the  lioman  character. 
.No  Arab  has  ever  attempted  to  teach  them  the  Arabic-Koran  ; 
thev  are  called  '/nine,  hard,  or  difficult  a-  to  religion.  '1  iii-  is 
not  wonderful,  .-ince  the  Koran  i.-  never  translated,  and  a  verv 
extraordinary  desire  for  knowledge  would  be  re<juired  i><  -n-tam 
a  man  in  committing  to  memorv  jia^e-  and  chapters  of'.  i<>  him, 
unmeanin-j;  gibl)erish.  One  onlv  <ii  all  the  na!i\  e  chief-,  Muii- 
vurn^o.  has  -rut  his  children  to  Zanxibar  t"  lie  taii^lu  t"  r-  ad 


miration  of  Mich  civili/ation  a^  he  has  .-een  amon^  the  \rab-. 
To  the  native.-,  the  chief'  attention  <it'  the  mi  —  inn  -ImtiM  1..-  di- 
rected. It  would  not  lie  desirable,  or  advi-able.  \<>  r'-tu-"-  ex- 
planation to  others;  but  I  have  avoided  uiviii'j.  oH'.-nce  t<« 
intelligent  Arabs,  who  have  pressed  me,  a-kiivj;  if  I  believed 


TIIK    BKST    MKT11OD. 

in  Mohammed,  by  saving,  '  Xo,  I  do  nut :  I  am  a  child  of  Jesus 
bin  Miriam,'  avoiding  anything  offensive  in  mv  tout',  and  often 
adding  that  Mohammed  found  their  forefathers  bowing  down  to 
trees  and  .stout's,  and  did  good  to  them  bv  forbidding  idolatry, 
and  teaching  the  worship  of  the  only  One  (Jod.  This,  they  all 
know,  and  it  pleads  them  to  have  it  recognized. 

"It  might  be  good  policv  to  hire  a  respectable  Arab  to  en- 
gage free  porters,  and  conduct  the  mission  to  the  countrv  chosen, 
and  obtain  pvrmis.-ion  from  the  chief  to  build  tetnjMjrary  hou.-es. 
If  tlii>  Arab  were  well  paid,  it  might  pave  the  \vav  ibremplov- 
ing  others  to  bring-  supplies  of  goods  and  store.-,  not  produced 
in  tin'  coimtrv,  as  tea,  cotlee,  and  sugar.  The  first  porters  had 
In-ttcr  all  go  back,  >avc  a  couple  or  so,  who  have  behaved  espe- 
ciallv  w»  •!!.  Tru-t  to  the  jM'ople  among  whom  voii  live  for 
general  .-crvices,  as  bringing  WIMM!,  water,  cultivation,  reaping, 
Miiith's  \\ork,  carpenter's  work,  potterv,  baskets,  etc.  Kdncated 
free  blacl<>  t'roin  a  distance  are  to  be  avoided  :  thcv  are  expen- 
sive, and  are  too  much  of  gentlemen  for  vour  work.  Von  :nav 
in  a  few  months  rai.-e  natives  who  will  teach  reading  to  others 
letter  than  thev  <-an,  and  teach  you  also  much  that  the  liberated 
never  know.  A  cloth  and  .-oinc  heads  occasional !v  will  >ati-fv 
them,  \\hilc  neither  the  food,  the  wage-,  nor  the  work  will 
plca-e  tho-r  who,  being  brought  from  a  distance,  natnrallv  con- 
sider themselves  missionaries.  Slaves  also  have  undergone  a 
pnx-e-.s  which  has  -poileil  them  lor  life;  though  liberated  voiinir, 
evervthing  of  childhood  and  o|>ening  lil'e  po~-o-rs  an  inde- 
M-ribablc  charm.  It  is  -o  with  our  own  offspring,  and  nothing 
elVact-  the  iairv  -ccnes  then  printed  on  the  mernorv.  Some  of 
mv  liici'ado-  «-agerly  bought  green  calabashes  and  ta>le!e-s 
njiri-h.  'Ailh  fine  fitt  be<-f,  becan<e  this  tra-h  wa><  their  earlv 
fo.,d;  and  an  ounce  of  meat  never  entered  their  mouth-.  It 
"•••fin-  indi-jM-n-able  that  each  mi— -ion  should  rai-e  MX  own 
native  ri_rei)rv.  A  couple  of  KurojM-ans  iM-ginnin^,  and  i-arrving 
on  a  iiii--ioi!  without  a  staff  of  foreign  attendant-,  iiuphe-  eoar-e 
coiintr\'  tare,  it  i-  true,  but  tin-  would  !><•  nothing  to  tlio-e  \\  ho, 
at  home,  amii-e  theni-elves  with  fa-tiiiLr-,  vigil-,  etc.  A  ^n-at 
d'-al  of  power  i~  thii-  lo-t  in  the  church.  l''a-tin^-  and  \igil~, 
without  a  -p« -i-ial  object  in  view,  are  time  run  to  \\a-te.  'I'hev 
nf'  inn!'-  to  mnii-t.  i-  to  a  -<;rt  of  M-lf-y-nitificutiuti,  in-tead  uf 


EXPENSES    OF    MISSION.  C23 

'ing  turned  to  account  for  the  good  of  o'hcrs.  They  are  like 
groaning  in  sickness.  Some  |>cople  amuse  themselves  when  ill 
with  continuous  moaning.  The  forty  days  of  I,«-nt  might  IK; 
annually  spent  in  visiting  adjacent  tribes,  and  l>earing  nnavoid- 
ahli-  hunger  and  thirst  with  a  good  gra<v.  ( 'on-idcriiv^  the 
greatness  of  the  object  to  be  attained,  men  might  go  without 
sugar,  coffee,  tea,  etc.  I  went  from  September,  1X(><>,  to  !)»<•(  111- 
IMT,  1SIJH,  without  either.  A  trader,  at  Caseml»e's,  gave  me  a 
dish  cooked  with  honey,  and  it  nauseated  from  its  horrible 
sweetness,  but  at  one  hundred  miles  inland,  supplies  could  l>c 
oasilv  obtained. 

"  The  expenses  need  not  be  large..  Intelligent  Aral*  inform 
me  that,  in  going  from  Zanzibar  to  Casern  lie's,  onlv  three  thou- 
sand dollars'  worth  are  required  by  a  trader,  say  between  -ix 
hundred  pounds  or  seven  hundred  pounds,  and  he  mav  be  away 
three  or  more  years;  paving  his  wav,  giving  presents  to  the 
chiefs,  and  filling  two  hundred  or  three  hundred  mouths.  He 
has  paid  for,  say  fifty  muskets,  ammunition,  flints,  and  mav  re- 
turn with  four  thousand  pounds  of  ivory,  and  a  number  of 
slaves  for  sale;  all  at  an  outlay  of  six  hundred  pounds  or  .-even 
hundred  pounds.  With  the  experience  I  have  gained  now,  I 
could  do  all  I  shall  do  in  this  expedition  for  a  like  .-um,  or  at 
least  for  one  thousand  pounds  less  than  it  will  aetuallv  co.-t  me." 
But  he  cautions  all  who  propose  to  seek  the  elevation  of  the 
Africans  that  it  can  onlv  be  accomplished  bv  real,  consistent,  IK>- 
nevolent,  intelligent,  and  patient  work.  Xo  jugglery  or  -leight- 
of-hand,  as  was  recommended  to  Napoleon  111.,  would  have  any 
effect  in  the  civilization  of  the  Africans  ;  thev  have  too  much 
good  sense  for  that.  Nothing  brings  them  to  place  thorough  con- 
fidence in  Europeans  but  a  long  course  of  well-doing.  'I  hey  be- 
lieve readily  in  the  supernatural  as  effecting  any  new  pn><v-s  or 
feat  of  skill,  for  it  is  part  of  their  original  faith  to  ascribe  every- 
thing above  human  agency  to  unseen  -pints.  (Joodness  or  un- 
selfishness impresses  their  minds  more  than  anv  kind  of -kill  or 
power.  They  say,  "  You  have  different  hearts  from  ours  ;  all 
black  men's  hearts  are  bad,  but  vours  arc  ^ood."  The  prayer 
to  Jesus  for  a  new  heart  and  right  spirit  at  once  commends  it- 
self as  appropriate.  Music  has  great  influence  on  tho-e  who 
have  musical  ears,  and  often  leads  to  conversion.  13ut  there 


(V24  I.ICHTKU    MATTERS. 

tn-i-t  IM-  careful  instruction  and  consistent  living.  Particularly 
mu.-t  tlirfc  U-  a  clear  and  striking  contrast  in  the-e  re-|>e<-t<  U-- 
t\\v.-:i  the  ('hri-tiau  mi  — ionarv  ami  tin-  Aral),  whose  name,  luw 
I)  ,•  ,'M.  a  -vmvivnie  fur  selfishness  ami  deceit. 

\\'e  cannot  contemplate  the  noble  he-art  \vhich  seems  to  OJKT 
In-fore  ii  a-  we  read  the^e  pa^es,  recalling  as  we  read  them  tin 
i -on-e<  rated  lite  which  underscores  every  word,  emphasizing  their 
truthfulness  and  imjKirtanec1,  without  a  conscious  reverence  lor 
fh"  noble,  devoted  man,  who  with  so  inueh  toil  and  self-denial 
comes  In-fore  us  with  wi-e  and  earnest  counsel.  And  mav  (ii«l 
Lrrant  that  thi>  nolilc  life  may  dwell  in  the  mind-  of  men,  an 
un  l\iii'_r  testimony  and  appeal,  until  all  Africa  is  radiant  with 
:!)«•  !i_'ht  of  the  knowledge  of  (io<l. 

Jin?  tin-re  were  lighter  matters  woven  into  the  life  at  I'nyan- 
yenil"-,  reli.-vin^  th«-~e  more  -erious  thoughts  as  thev  relievc«l 
lip-  we.-irvin-j-  calculations  and  p<-rplexing  uruc--e-.  Now  and 
then  the  liiilne--  \va-  broken  bv  fragments  of  information  t'rom 
varioii-  par1-  of'  the  coiintrv.  Sonu'tiincs  the  incident-  ot  the 
hou-ehold  aflordeil  a  brief  entertainment.  Nothing  oeajwd  h> 
notjee.  In  his  journal  for  tln-e  month-  we  find  a  mo-t  remark- 
able ra n_'<-  ii''  -iibjcets.  while  hi-  mind  was  ab.-orbed  by  the  jjreat 
(jMe~t:'»:>-  »\iii  h  come  prominently  before  u-  in  reading  hi-  lile. 
iie  had  infinite  delight  in  the  sports  of  the  bird-  about  hi- door; 
the  pit-ill iarifji--  <>'.'  the  tinie-t  in-ect-,  the  -port-  of  childn  n 
wirli  their  <l;m:nutive  bow-  and  arro\\-,  tlie  frivolities  of 
hi-  -ervan:-.  their  pettv  jealousies  and  ambitions,  the  mo-r 
trivial  maVer-  ()f  trade,  the  little  incident-  and  remark-  amon^ 
tl. ••  Arab-  \sith  whom  he  exchanged  vi-it-,  were  all  notii-ed. 
tell-  ho\v  he  -cttled  a  <|iiarrel  bet\v<e,i  hi-  t\\f. 
''--;  a::o:h<-r  nine  of  the  lo-<  o!  a  ta\on!e  cow, 
e'-e  o|  bringing  alxmt  a  marriage  for  Su-i.  '1  hen 
a1  i-orb.  d  in  the  raid  ••onic  t inv  -parro\\  -  \\ej-e  makiirj  "ii 
'.'.  eb  ;  a  t  hoii-  and  t  liiirj-  of  the  -or!  -liariir_r  hi-  at  ten - 
•>  •  h  tip-  -jravi  -f  problem-. 

<"    '::!'!    e,,;i|.        IMoT'i'    1'i'ailllv    befofe    II-     th:MI    hllll-elf    \\hell    Wr 

I  ;-  O-.MI  thoii-ht-  rno-t  i-a-ually  i'\pn--ed  a-  follow-: 

'he  ;Tt  a!   :tni'i'j_'   men   have  l>eeii   remril'kable    at    oiiec   |<>r 
i-p  and    minuJeni -«    o('  their    knowledge.      <ir«at  a-trono- 
-    -  .-in    to    know  every   i.jta  "f    the    Knouable.      'I'he    ^reat 


THE   SUSPENSE    ENDED.  (;_>- 

Duke,  when  at  the  li«i<l  of  armies,  could  give  all  the  particular* 
to  be  observed  in  a  nival ry  charge,  and  took  can-  to  have  foot! 
ready  for  all  his  troops.  Men  think  that  greatnc>-  consists  in 
lofty  indifference  to  all  trivial  things.  Tlie(Jrand  Llama,  nit- 
ting  in  immovable  contemplation  of  nothing,  is  a  good  example 
of  what  a  human  mind  would  regard  as  majesty;  but  the  (io»- 
pels  reveal  Jesus,  the  manifestation  of  the  blessed  ("iod  over  all, 
as  minute  in  his  eare  of  all.  He  exercises  a  vigilance  more 
constant,  complete,  and  comprehensive,  everv  hour  and  every 
minute,  over  each  of  his  people,  than  their  utmost  self-love 
could  ever  attain.  His  tender  love  is  more  exquisite  than  a 
mother's  heart  can  feel." 

Hut  however  he  might  engage  himself,  freely  as  he  might 
allow  his  thoughts  to  roam  and  soar,  there  was  one  consuming 
anxiety — tltr  men.  He  counted  the  davs.  Over  and  over  in 
his  journal  there  arc  found  calculations  of  the  time  when  they 
might  be  expected. 

<lAt  last  this  trying  suspense  was  put  an  end  to  by  the  arrival 
of  a  troop  of  fifty-seven  men  and  boys,  math1  up  of  porters. 
hired  by  Mr.  Stanley  on  the  coast,  and  some  more  Xassiek 
pupils  sent  from  Bombay  to  join  Lieut.  Dawson.  AVc  find  the 
names  of  John  and  Jacob  Wainwright  amongst  the  latter  on 
Mr.  Stanley's  list. 

"  Before  we  incorporate  these  new  recruits  on  the  muster-roll 
of  Dr.  Livingstone's  servants,  it  seems  right  to  point  to  five 
names  which  alone  represented  at  this  time  the  ]\-{  of  his  origi- 
nal followers;  these  were  Snsi,  Oliuma,  and  Amoda.  who  joined 
him  in  lS«J-i  on  the  Zambesi — that  is,  eight  year-  previously — 
and  Mabruki  and  Gardner.  Xassiek  boy-;  hired  in  Istii).  Y\*<> 
shall  see  that  the  new-comers  bv  degrees  became  accustomed  to 
the  hardships  of  travel,  and  shared  with  the  old  servants  all  the 
danger  of  the  last  heroic  march  home.  Nor  inu-t  we  {br^et 
that  it  was  to  the  intelligence  and  superior  education  of  Jaci.b 
Wainwright  (whom  we  now  meet  with  for  the  lir-t  time  that 
we  are  indebted  for  the  earliest  account  of'  the  eventful  eighteen 
month-  during  which  he  was  attached  to  the  partv. 

"And  now  all  is  pounding,  packing,  bargain!:)",  wei^him:, 
and  disputing  amongst  the  porters.  Amidst  the  m-  parable 
difficulties  of  an  African  start  one  thankful  heart  gathers  com- 
fort and  courage." 


C26  THE   QfEF.N'S    ArKNOWI.EIXJMKNT. 

The  mon  arrived  mi  tin-  14th  of  August.  Mr.  Stanley  was 
already  in  KriL'land.  The  pnvious,  cheering  letters  had  glad- 
dened tin-  hearts  of  loving  children  and  kind  friends.  The 
staled  l*»x  had  Ix-en  faithfully  delivered ;  and  the  man  who 
brought  them  wa-  reviving  the  kindest  acknowledgments  of 
his  -nect  --  iVuiii  the  [M'rsonal  friends  of  Dr.  Livingstone  anil 
the  l.rit  i-h  <  lovernnient. 

Conspicuous  among  these  acknowledgments  was  a  very  beau- 
tiful t"kni  fn>m  the  noble  Queen,  who  had  always,  we  renietu- 
IH-I-.  taki-n  tin-  dcr|H->t  interest  in  the  heroic  traveller. 

Tlx-  i-xpn-ssions  of  roval  appreciation,  so  gnuvfullv  emlwxlied 
in  tin  following  note,  i>  a  fitting  >eal  of  the  chapter!*  which  will 
leave  n-  free  to  follow  Dr.  Livingstone  hack  into  the  continent 
which  ju-tlv  claims,  the  privilege  of  pillowing  his  dving  head 
ujxin  it>  hre-.L-t. 

11  I'uKKK.N  OrricK,  Ati'j"-*i  -~- 

'•SiK:  —  I  have  great  satisfaction  in  conveying  to  yon,  \>y 
command  of  the  (Jneen,  her  Majesty's  high  appreciation  of  the 
prudenet;  and  x.eal  whi'-h  von  have  disph«yc«l  in  opening  a  eotn- 
nmnication  with  l^r.  Living-tone,  and  relieving  her  Majesty 
from  the  anxietv  which,  in  common  with  her  subjects,  >he  had 
felt  in  regard  to  the  fate  of  that  distinguished  traveller. 

"The  (^neen  de-ins  me  to  express  her  thaid<s  for  the  servi<-e 
yon  have  \}\\i<  rendered,  together  with  her  Majesty's  congratu- 
lation- "ii  vonr  having  •1~<>  sticitssfully  earrii-<l  on  the  mi--ion 
which  v"ti  learles~ly  undertook.  Her  Majestv  al-o  de-ire-  me 
to  re<jiie-t  vour  acceptance  of  the  Memorial  which  accompanies 
Uiis  letter.  1  am,  -ir, 

"  Your  most  olxxlient,  humble  -ervant, 

"CiltANVJLLE," 


CIIAPTKIl    XXXI  V. 

THK    LAST    JofKNF.Y. 

The  Plans  of  Livingstone— Rotitr  Propped  — The  Mareh  Hei;iiii—  '.ivini^ton*'* 
Carefulness  of  Oliservatioii— A  Kelialde  <  >l>server  IndinYreiiee  <•!'  I.ivin_">t<.ne 
to  hanger  A  Charmed  Life  -  Hetter  .Indires  -A  MidnL'ht  Kiu-i.iiiiii-r  The 
<>M  Disease  -  Tin-  Shares  of  Tanganyika  Cotton  Cultivated  II  nniiir.'  a 
Hi  sines*  Ominous  Silenee — Lake  Liemlw- --Tin-  Slave-  Tra'lf-  '/.<H\\\<I-  !;.•- 
nel.eeiit  l)isap|M>intment.H —  [)<>iikt*ys  ami  tin-  T-et-e  Tin-  Kal>in^o>j  N^ama 
ami  ( 'asciiiln-  Flood  ami  Klowt-rs— Heautiful  l-linlilciii--  A  l-"l'i.,di-d  <  .dintry 
(Jrrat  Hardships  —  Fording  Kivt-rs — Livinirstont-  Carried  t>y  hi-.  M<  n  Inland 
Villages —The  Last  Hirthdiiy — ilesfdution — Snll'erinu".  and  Lonirini.'*  Six  I'n-t 
Kain-'-'all ! — Fishes — Sinkini;  Rapidly  —  I'tterly  Fxhaiisted  —  Kindm  ^>  ut'  Mu- 
ana/.awamlia  Tlie  Last  Written  Wonls — Carried  on  a  Kitanda  — The  La^t 
Mile— Tlu>  Ixust  Words— Death. 

WK  are  not  left  in  any  uncertainty  about  thr  plans  of  I  >r. 
Livingstone  when  he  set  out  on  the  last  journey  of  his  lite,  <>r 
the  hopes  which  inspired  him  ;  and  we  can  hurdlv  find  in  the 
history  ot'.uunan  etl'ort  a  grander  instance  ofeourago  and  pcr.-«- 
vcranee  th:  n  is  exhibited  in  the  deliberate  and  joyous  under- 
taking, win  n  we  remember  that  the  route  marked  out  f<>r 
himself  by  t'lis  ^reat  man  was  perhaps  as  exteiu-iye  a-  all  his 
journeys  sine"  he  entered  Africa  in  iStif!. 

''It  is  all  but  certain/'  he  writes,  "that  four  thll-irrown 
gushing  fount;  ins  rise  on  the  water.-hed  ei^ht  day-  Munli  of 
Katanga,  each  of  which  at  no  great  distance  otl' becomes  a  lar^e. 
river;  and  two  rivers  thus  formed  MOW  north  to  lv_r\-]it.  the 
other  two  south  to  Inner  Kthiopia  ;  that  i.-.  Lulira  or  I>artle 
I'^rcre's  river,  Mi  ws  into  Kamolondo.  and  that  into  \\"t-l.b\ 
Lualal>n,  the  mai  i  line  of  drainage.  Another,  on  the  ii'-rth 
side  of  the  sources.  Sir  I'araiHn  Younu''-  I,ualal>:i.  flows  tlii'Mii^h 
Lake  Lincoln,  oth«  rwise  named  C'hibnn^o  and  I-iomame.  and 
that  too  into  \Vebb'-  Lnalaba.  Then  Liambai  l-'oiintain.  I'al- 
merston's,  forms  the  Fpper  Zambesi  ;  and  the  Lunga  i  Ltinu-a1, 
Oswell's  Fountain,  is  the  lvalue;  both  Mowing  into  Innt-r 
37  o.T 


Kthiopia.  It  inav  l>e  that  tlu-s*.-  aiv  in-t  thr  ti>iin!:iin>  of'  the 
Nilr  mentioned  to  Henxlottl*  by  the  -rcivtarv  ot'  Minerva,  in 
Sal-,  in  Ivjvpt  ;  hut  they  are  \v..rth  di-rovery,  a-  in  the  la-t 
hundred  nt'  the  -,\  en  hundred  mile-  of  the  uatrr— ln-d,  from 
uhi'-h  ii'-arlv  all  the  Nilr  -|>rinur-  do  mii|iUMioiiahlv  ari-e. 

"  I  jiroj.o-e  to  Lr<>  from  I'liyanyt'inlx-  to  Fipa  ;  tln-n  round  the 
-oiith  i-nd  ••!'  Tanganyika,  Tambrte,  «r  Ml.ete;  then  acr.i--  the 
<  hambe/.c,  and  round  -oiith  of  Lake  BaiiL'weolo,  and  din-  \ve-t 
to  the  ancient  fountains;  leaving  thr  underground  excavations 
till  after  vi-itiii'_r  Katanga.  Tin-  route  \\  ill  -,  r\  <  to  c.-rt  i(V  t  hat 
no  . ,t hep  -oiirre-  ot'the  Nile  can  come  from  tin-  -osuli  without 
IN-'UIJ;  -re n  liv  me.  No  one  will  rut  me  out  alter  tin-  explora- 
tion i-  a<-roinpli-hed  :  and  inav  the  ^,M,,|  |.,,pl  nf  ;dl  help  me  to 
-how  mv-elf'  one  of  hi-  -t oil !- lira i't <  d  -ervant-.  an  honor  to  mv 
children,  and,  jM-rhap-,  to  mv  eountrv  and  rae.  ." 

Some  one  \\ill  i  nter  into  hi-  labor-,  and  the  h"i)or  \\hieli  hi-. 
unei|iia!lrd  -elt'-d.-nia!  and  wonderful  devotion  to  -ci.-nce  and 
humanitv  entitled  him  to  de-ire  ;  but  no  man  \\ill  prove  him- 
-•]f  a  -toiiter  hearted  -.r\ant  of  (iiwl;  im  man  ran  leave  a 
rich'-r  le'jaev  to  hi-  children,  hi-  roiintrv.  and  In-  race,  than  i< 
i.r.iii.  at  IP  d  in  the  nien)..|-v  of  him  who  crown- a  life  of  u-et'ul 
toil  h\  a  c,,n-e.-|-;ited  death. 

Th'-rr  wa-  no  time  !<>-t  in  minpletiii'j  the  arran-j'rment-  at 
I  ':;\  a;i\  eml.e,  \\  h.  n  the  caravan  wa>  onre  a!  the  di-po-al  ,.)'  the 
•  aril' -t  man  alp.adv  -o  \\earv  of'  delav.  And  no  da\  of'  hi- 
lil'e  \\a-  bright'-;-  t..  him  than  the  'J.'ith  of  .\u-ju-t,  \\ho-e  ev.-ti- 
iii_r  -ha-low-  hun_r  about  hi-  camp  --an  hmir'-  march  from 
K  -\  ihara. 

!  he   i  arli'  r    part    "f  the    |oiiniev    la%'    aloii'j   almo-t    the    -ame 

rout--  a-  that    tra\''-r-rd    bv    Mr.  Stan!'\-   tir-t,  and    atVr^ard    bv 

i..!;.-   .fand    Mr.  Slanlev,  between    I    |i|i  and   I    nvan\einbe.       I  he 

•  •Mri.  d  of  th«-  dav-   i-  valuable  t»  p«-r-on-  r-  mtrmplat  in^  t  ra\-«  l- 

.  !l      t  h-      <  i,!in;  !'\  ,    b    l!      |io--e--    \'erS      lit  tie   n|      Illtere-t     fo   t  hr    -J-.-lii   J'al 

r-  >d- r.  I'  -a-  t  In-  ru-t,  mj  ,,;'  J  )••.  I  .;  \  in  •_••-  '•  >ii'  '••  p.-.ird  \\ith 
-m  -  .!  n •  .  -i  ;••  and  minutriie--  t  he  m.i-t  t  ri\  lal  \aria!  i"ii-  m  t  he 
••oi;  and  /  ir  :  i!  apprarane.  .  .f  t  ]<••  r-  _'i"!i-  \\  !ii •  h  he  :  ra\  .-r-.  d. 
Ib  •  .M'.dii-.'  !..;•,•  I.,  en  mop-  p-irt  ieu'ar  in  the-e  matt' r-  had 
j-iid  I  •  •  -u  ,  or  •  liar.--  d  \\  it  h  a  -urve\-  fur  a 
•  •i  .1  !\  part iriil.ir  in  thr  mention  carh  day 


A  ( i!  U:MI:I>  LIFE.  r,i_W( 

of  tin*  little  comforts  :iinl  discomfort*  of  travel.      If  his  leaders 

li;id  oeca-ion  to  cha-tise  ;i  mischievous  hov,  it  entered  the  journal  • 

• 

if  a  m:ui  unluckily  wa*  taxed  with  .storage  for  an  in-ect  in  the 
aipieoii-  c|iainl)rr  of  hi-  eye,  it  interested  him.  \\  >•  have  not 
-pace  for  the-e  tiling,  and  the  reader  would  }><•  impatient  of 
beiu'4  kept  hack  from  the  Braver  matter^  before  u-  ,-lioiild  we 
r 'i|inre  hint  to  he  so  milch  interested  in  -ixlv  or  .-event  v  men 
of  whom  he  knows  nothing.  The  capacity  of  oh-ervin^  the-e 
!  rivialtie-  wa-  a  distinguishing  t'rait,  however,  in  the  character 
of  1  >r.  Livingstone.  It  ua-  the  suite  element  of  character 
which  constituted  him  inlinitelv  the  superior  of  ordinarv  travel- 
lers ;  that  made  his  observations  .-o  reliable  in  matter-  of  science. 
The  dav-  were  to  I  >r.  Livingstone  dav-  of  toil.  He  wa>  no 
longer  VOUIILT,  and  the  \vildness  of  Afri'-a  was  no  louder  novel 
to  him.  Tho-e  wonderful  forest-  and  charming  hill.-  which 

cn^a^ed     the    eve    of    Mr.   StailleV   like    the    shiftilli:    -eeite-    of    a 

tjrand  panorama,  were  all  familiar  scenes  to  the  man  who  had 
been  walking  up  and  down  in  the  land  diinnir  thirtv  vear-. 
V.\'<>n  that  wonderful  "paradise  of  hunter-/'  where  tin  VOIMIL; 
leader  of  the  Herald  expedition  rejoiced  in  hi-  lir-t  e!i-_;-a^enieiits 
with  the  mon-ters  of  the  wilderness,  po-<e--ed  nothing  new  or 
awe-iuspirini;.  It  i-  almo-t  inen-dible  that  a  man  -hould  be- 
come so  thoroughly  iuditl'erent  to  the  j»ro.\imitv  of  tin-  mo-t 
ferocious  and  daiiirerous  wild  beasts  as  wa-  IV.  LivinLT-tone. 
\\'e  remember  the  view-  which  he  e\pre--rd  in  earlier  vear- 
a!»oiit  the  lion.  He  never  changed  them  ;  and  lie  seems  to  have 
become  -o  accustom(vd  to.  not  the  lion  onlv,  but  all  hi-  |or«--t 
rival-,  that  he  eoitl-1  hardly  jjive  them  mention.  Indeed,  we 
cannot  help  ('eeliiiLT  sometime-,  a-  his  men  tilt  and  .-aid  -o  fiv- 
(jiieiitlv  in  substaiK-c,  that  he  carri<  d  a  "charmed  li;'-."  and 
lived  in  con.-tant  expo-ure  to  savage  men  and  bea-t-  in  the 
-ereititv  ot'  an  almo-t  eon-eion-  immortalitv.  l'.i;t  the  traveller 
who  thinks  that  the  inditl'erence  ot'  LiviiiLi-tonc  to  the  m.in~t.r^ 
that  hold  an  nnseriipnlon<  -wav  in  the  wild-  ot'  AtVi--a  pro\-c< 
that  thev  mav  be  de-pi-ed  with  impunitv  i-  mi-taken.  \\'e 
must  not  lor--et  that  explorer-  travel  p'uerallv  with  extt  n.-ive 
caravan- — little  avmie-;.  Tlie  adventurers  \\lio  attempt  a  le-s 
imposing  and  dismavnttr  invasion  of  tho-e  \vild-  are.  perhaps, 
the  safer  interpreter-  of  the  lion'-  roar,  the  " -hriel^  "  of  the  ele- 


630  I.I:<»PAUI>  K.NI  <n\\TKH. 

pliant,  the  ijtiii-k    "  whitl"'  »f  tin-  rhinmvros,  and   tlic  stealthy 

rftfp  «>f  the  leopard.      It  matter.-   little  to  the  iinhirkv  man  who 

•  • 
tind-   him-eit'  oddly    matched    in   <-l«-c  «•!»<•<. unr<T   \\itli.  «>n«-  •  •!' 

tin-.-,  that  tii--  animal  may  p..— e--  only  I'epn-ity  in-tead  of  true 
(tiiira_'.  .  1  IK-  .-a-e  i-  de-pt  rat*-  all  tin-  -ame.  1  In-  h  '.paid  \va-> 
never  t'n«>ii'_dit  "t  a-  di.-tnii^ui-lifd  l>v  loitv  i-onm^e;  nut  a  eaia- 
van  •  an  hardlv  pa.--  through  hi-  native  jungle.-  \\  :lii"iil  earn  ni'j 
»-.\a\  a  man  ••!•  r.\.i  It--  than  it  lirmi^ht.  ()in-i'f  the  li«-r<vM 
«*<frii -  jMirtrav.-d  in  honk-  »i  fravd  i-  in  the  aeenimt  d'  a  mid- 
night lian'.e  ,ii'  a  di-tintrui>ln'd  traveller  with  i>i t'  th--e 

nn;naii!v  n-eat nr« •-.  Separated  trum  hi-  [larty,  and  sidly  U  \\il- 
der«il,  tiii'  tra\eiler  \\a.-  vainly  endeas  "riiiLT  t<>  regain  tin  path 
Iri-iii  uiii.-ii  he  had  iineon-cLm-iv  tiirm-d.  The  -lial'-u-  had 
i-!,...-d  alu. ut  him,  and  the  nii_dit.  \\ith  all  it-m.>-t  di-.-'-rdant 

-oMIld-,   j'!'1  Vaili  d.        Slldde|d\',   \\  llile    lie    ll-telled    ill  tell  t  IV.   tearing 

that  a  -Irji  mi-ht  luin-  him  aer.—  the  path  •>!'  -..me  pn.ulin- 
iii"n-t''r.  h'-  h'ard  a  !'•••. t-tall.  li-ht  and  ran;  ii-n-.  and  a  in  ..ir-e 
IIP  a'  ii!:i'_'.  1!'  had  hardlv  time  l«»-jra-|t  hi-  \\eaj". n  \vli<  n  tin- 
lenpird  -|.ra!i^'  I'll  him.  Tin-  -trn--le  \\a-  1'ur  lil'e  <>n  the 
iinntei-'.  par!,  }!•!•  ld"<»l  mi  the  part  ••!'  hi-  a— ailant  \\'h- n  it 
eiidi-d  it  \\a-  a  d.'iilitt'nl  eh'.iee  U'twi-en  tin-  pp.-trate  rt.rm-i>r 
the  m  HI  and  liea-t  I<M-  the  living  <me;  and  \.ar-  afli-rward  ili< 
ma:/-  ni'-iiinrv  !•«  \-<rt.d  !••  that  midnight  ene"iinti  i-  a-  lh. 
e!im.i\  ol'al!  hi-  |n-ril-.  It  -•••m-  (••  !•<•  true.  Imuevcr,  that 
traveller-  thr»n_rh  the  eniintrie-  inf'.'-t.-d  Lv  ra\-en.'ii-  li.-a-t- 
n.-.-d  ii-.t  e.iiii''  in'- 1  eulli-ii.il  with  them.  It  i-  L'('n< 'rallv  ji..--i- 
lile  ;..  :ia\.-l  i:i  -u.'h  ei,mpan\  ,  and  eiieamp  in  -n>-h  a  maninr. 
:L-  !<•  in-nre  pr..teeti.>n  tr«m  a--an!t-.  Il  I  >r.  1 .1  \  .  nj-f.  -lie  had 
I...  M  a  hun!.-i'.  and  had  -<>U'_dit  the  intimaeie-  \\lii.  h  have  lur- 
!i!-!,. -d  t!i'-  -:artiiii'_r  nari-ati\T-  that  fill  the  |..,,.L-  ,.('  nther  m«  n. 
},.-  inijlii  have  th.HiL'ht  "f'  the-.-  wild-  a-  they  d...  A-  it  ua-, 
li.-pi--.il  ttip.njh  the  "  paradi-e  nf  linnfer- "  \\  ithuiii  a  \\  "id 
aln-i.t  the  "  -pl.-iidid  'jam«'."  I'nt  there  i-  nnn!i»n  in  ln- 
jM'init'  i>!  an  enemv  \\hieh  he  <-..i:!d  n«t  d«--pi-e  ;  \\hieh  m- 
\  i-l.  .1  ",!-;,  in-idi..M-  nialier  th.-  .-'IP  !••  . .('  t'.ill"W  r-.  and  lau_-li.-d 
n1  .  -iiMj.  fir.-  and  '.\all-  "f  mud  .-I'  eaiiva-.  I  hi-  N\a-  th>-  "Id 
,j;-.a--  «.}'  ri.'-  l...v.i-l-  wlii'-Ii  had  |i.ll'.\\.d  him  -«•  man\  year-. 
<•••..  til  da-.-  -A.M.  !••-'  at  Mi'-  ra.  and  th>-  In-  n  -p«-al->  »\'  lew 
H.-  ;,..  1-  ,,;'  .-\ ,  n  .  ..mparalive  h-  a!th  alt-  r  h-  !-  I'l  that  p-iut. 


THK   SHOKKS    OF    TAN(J  A  S  YIKA.  f,.",l 

(  >n  leaving  Mrcra,  ami  p:L->ing  tin-  village  «if  Sirnha,  tln-v 
reached  the  ran^e  of  lulls  overlooking  the  Tanganyika,  and 
turning  .southward,  leaving  hi>  old  route  behind  him.  The 
land  was  now  peculiarly  rough  with  angular  fragments  of 
(juail/..  It  \\a-  eariv  in  Ortolx-r,  and  in  the  hotte.-t  >ca-on. 
'1  he  doctor  complained  of  ^reat  fatigue  and  inward  Millcring. 
Flu-  eo i use  lay  along  the  range,  a  thousand  feet  almve  the  -ur- 
taeeof  the  lake,  amid  scraggy  trees,  whose  seantv  foliage  afl'orde<l 
.1  poor  protection  from  the  M-orchiftg  ra\>.  Along  the  -lion -  of 
the  lake  a  great  deal  of  cotton  wa-  under  cultivation,  and  the 
people  had  devised  methods  of  manufacturing  it,  bv  which  thev 
provided  themselves  with  as  much  clothing  a.i  their  fa-hions 
call  li.r. 

The  sides  of  Tanganyika  presented  a  succession  of  rounded 
hays  an.-wcring  to  the  valleys  which  trended  down  to  the  -hore 
between  the  numerous  ranges  of  hills.  The  hills  were  the 
habitat  of  all  the  distinctive  animal-  of  the  continent,  and  the 
familiar  traps  of  the  native- — with  whom  the  taking  of  ele- 
phants and  buffaloes  is  more  a  bu.-inc.-s  than  a  sport — were  >ecn 
daily.  Kvcry  day  it  was  the  >ame  thing — lal)orious  marches 
over  mountains  rising  five  hundred  to  seven  hundred  fret  above 
the  parses;  often  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  lake.  (  )rdi- 
narilv  there  would  have  been  outbursts  of  enthusiasm,  in  the 
midst  of  the  splendid  sccnerv  which  mti-t  frinjuentlv  have  -ur- 
roundcd  him  ;  but  dav  after  day  he  pa.->eil  in  silence  along  tho-e 
loftv  cre>t<  from  which  .he  could  look  down  on  the'.Miriace  of 
the  lake,  tla-hinu  like  a  golden  mirror  in  the  lengthening  -nn- 
ravs  of  eveiiiiiLi',  or  reflecting  like  burnished  silver  the  noon- 
time brilliancv  ;  or  awav  over  broken  ledges  and  majestic  ran^e- 
of  hill-  rich  in  geological  etiriositie-  and  vegetable  luxuriaii'-e  ; 
or  aloiiLT  valli'vs  heantii'ul  \\'i*h  pronii.-es  oi  reward  to  intelligent 
and  industrious  atteinion.  It  \va-  an  unusual  and  >addeniiig 
-ileii<-c.  an«l  teil>  unmi.-takablv  of'  the  suli'crings  with  \\hich  the 
journey  wa>  !H  ini_r  performed. 

He  ]xi-- ed  through  l-'i|»a  a, id  entered  l*nini:u.  and  on  ar"iiu.! 
the  -outhrrn  end  of  the  Lake  Lieinha.  and  came  ainon^ 
familiar  .-cenes  auain.  lie  wa.-  here  onlv  a  little  nioiv  than 
one  month's  march  from  I'jiji.  and  vet  Iroia  tin-  jioiht  lie  had 
been  obliged  to  turn  a-'ro.--  through  Itawa.  vear-  bit! •!•«•,  and 


C.'VJ  THK    IM'NKKV    AND    T>KTSE. 

-uhmit  to  vear-  of  hartl-liij)  ami  ilrjH'iuloiKv,  all  lut-iuisr  of  thr 
,-lave-trade,  \\hi--h  elaim-  the  prerogative  of  hindering  all 
In-iit-volt-nei-  an«l  ii'.oekin::  tlu-  \\ ay  of  .-eiemv  ill  Afriea,  only 
that  it  mav  •  ui-c  that  unliaj'j»y  eontment  \\itli  it.-  iltytiulin^ 
frlinif. 

\Vlirii  thev  ivaehed  the  village  of  ZomKe — NovemU-r  llth  — 
tip'  d<«  tor  \\a-  reminded  vei  v  forcibly  uf  that  tender  provitlrmx1 
\\lii--li  -o  fpoaientiv  wrought  .-i^nal  deliveramv.-  for  him. 
<Mi!v  a  f'-'A  i:i'>n'ili-  earlier  tliat  t"\\n  had  Utii  -iirroiindcd  l>y 
ti.r  ;r'«>|i-  ui  a  itout-rllll  I'hii't'.  and  riti-utlv  lie  had  In-fii  utti'i'ly 
r»!i:«il  1>\  th'-  liniiht-r.i  "t  Xmnbf,  \\lu»  had  romr  to  hi*.  a>»i>t- 
aiii-i-  in  tiiin-  I"  1'i't  \<  nt  an  alhain-c  In -twi-rii  thr  lx->ii'j;(T.>  ami 
tin-  Aral'-.  Had  tin- «l«M'ti»r  arrivt-il  a  li-\\  \\tt-ks  i-urlit-r  lu' ouihl 
not  have  avoided  falling  into  the  hand-  of  ino.-t  ovt  rln-arini: 
iiu-ii  :  and  had  he  IM.-II  aide  to  do  a-  lie  de-in  d,  he  Wiitilil  liavt- 
an~i\'ed  earlier.  So  it  i-  that  im-n  \  erv  olicii  have  orca-ion  to 

J.l:t:-e     *  !"d     t'ol'     di-a|i|>"illtlllellt-.         l''l  e.jll.'llt  1\'     there    al'e     Ili'JWM 

ni"~;  t'ondlv  i-h'-ri-hed  \\ho-i-  leali/ation  \\oiild  hreaU  our  In-art.- 
or  li!a-t  all  our  intefi-t-. 

I'»'-t\\ii-n     /'.inl'i-    and     the     li.-aiit  it'll  1     An-y    the    do.  tor    \\  a> 

oli'i-i-d  [,,  I'ee,  ,rd  the  d.ath  of  111-  dolllvev,  \\hieh  had  In-ill  -111- 
t'erill_'  t'"|-  -ollii-  time  the  e]]i-el  of  tin-  t-et-e  I'ite.  Hitherto  1  »l. 

1  ,i\  inj-!oiie  h.id  al\\a\'-  maintained,  a-  the  re-ult  ol  ln-o\\n 
oh-'  i  A  a:  i"ii-,  that  thi-  animal,  at  ail  e\eiit-,  could  1  »e  taken 
tln'oii-'n  di-tri.-i.-.  in  \\hieli  hor-e-.  mule-,  ilo--,  and  o\en  \\oii!d 
IP.  i  ;-li  (•  i  a  ei-i  taint  \  ;  and  \\  it  h  t  he  ke«  n  )"  r«  •  |it  i"ii  and  |M •!•-»  - 

Veraliee    i)fii|ji-    \\l|o    \'.  :i-    exploring    All'Ha    \\ltll    a    \le\\     to    i.JM-II    It 

iij>  f. 'i1  I'.ni'ojican-,  he  laid  L'l'eat  -tr«s-  on  ihe-e  e\ JM  mm  lit-. 
II-  had  IM  i-n  e\.'<-«  din^l\  anxioii-  to  d<  ij.on-t  i  ;it-  t  lie  p. i-^iliilii  v 
of  .  arr\  inj  doid\e\  -  ;in\  \\  In  re  in  A  !  n<  :i.  I  I  "\\  tar  hi-  -ii'  •<  >  -- 
n!  f.ii'.ui-.'  in  d'-in.:  -o  -hoii!il  all'eet  oiin'i'-  i-  a  ijiie-tion  (.,1  th.  in 
:..d-  i--.  Til-  doej.ii  hirii-i-lt',  h"\\i  vet .  e.ui  hard!\  l»--aid  to 

i..i-..     fe  •!'  d    '  i.'-   InaU'-r   !  1 i  jh!\  .   :i-     hi      l!.-  iition-   I  In-   l:ii  t    that 

1.  -  >i'.;i'.'  \  had  -till'  I'  d  ill  ll-a_'e  and  'j !"•  al  ne<jlii-|  li\  the  m.  n 
\\!i.  '..  t  i  ]',  ;a  ehar_'e.  'lii^d-atii  nt'llii  doiike\  \\a~aureat 


i.i    \.I!.ij.    of  Kaln|ioinl>a,  hi-  "Id   friend,  and   that   ol 

•:iih'd    \M-tuard.ai-ro--    tin-    v:iri"ii- 

.;    I  if     K  .-i.  until   the\    n  .ii-l iei|   lip     ka!oni_'o-i,  at    t  he 


CROSSING    THK    KALOXC;<)SI.  0-Vi 

confluence  of  the  Luena.  Northward,  on  their  right  hand,  a- 
they  advanced,  was  Itawa,  tin-  country  <>t'  N-ama,  now  thor- 
oughly c(»n<|iicrcd  by  tlic  Aral>s.  Before  them  wa-  the  town  of 
( 'a>cinlic,  who  had  also  fidlcn  before  tin-  Aral)  trader-.  '1  he 
mountains  had  been  Icl't  behind,  and  the  country  was  level  and 
covered  with  trees  which  had  been  stripped  of  their  hark. 

The  Kalougosi  was  sixtv  or  eights'  van!.-  wide  and  lour  yard- 
deep.  The  rains  were  now  fully  set  in,  and  the  daily  experi- 
ence was  becoming  one  of  distressing  exposure,  \\lnle  the  health 
of  I  )r.  Livingstone  was  gradually  declining.  The  ravages  of 
(lie  Aral's  in  N'-ama's  and  Casembe's  countries  had  made  the 
people  of  the  villages  timid  and  .-ii.-picioiis.  \\  here  thev  were 
hold  ciioii'_di  to  remain  in  their  homes,  they  were  di.-tru>tful  and 
ungenerous. 

After  crossing  the  Kalongosi  they  turned  southward,  a  little 
east  of  south.  As  thcv  came  nearer  Lake  IJangweolo  there  wa> 
a  manifest  alteration  in  the  liice  of  the  coiiutrv.  It  had  l>ecn 
excocdinglv  unpleasant  travelling  aci'oss  the  numerous  feeders 
of  the  great  rivers  flowing  westward  ;  !>ut  it  was  now  becoming 
one  continual  plunge  in  and  out  of  morass  and  through  river* 
which  were  onlv  distinguishable  from  the  surrounding  water- 
bv  their  deeper  currents.  It  was  impos.-ible  that  .-m-h  e\p<-ui'e 
-hoiild  not  be  attended  with  very  serious  results  to  a  man  -o 
reduced  in  health  and  affected  ehronicallv  with  dysenteric  svmp- 
toms.  It  only  astonishes  us  that  he  should  have  endured  it  .-o 
long.  The  few  villages  were  in  terror  and  closed  their  gates : 
the  tiitc  of  (  'ascmbc  was  ti>o  fresh  in  their  mind>  to  admit  of' 
their  entertaining  armed  -tranter-. 

There  were  many  plots  of  cassava,  mai/e.  millet,  dura,  LH'"iuid- 
nuts,  voand/.eia,  in  the  lorc-t.all  -urroimded  \\  ith  -UMII^  hi'_rh 
lunlges  skilf'ullv  built,  and  manui'dl  with  wmid-n-he-.  Theft- 
were  al-o  many  flowers:  marigold-,  ;i  \vhitc  jompiil-lot.kin^ 
flower  without  smell,  manv  on-hid-,  white,  vellnw  and  j.iidx 
Asclepias,  with  bunches  <if'  l-"ri-neh  white  flowers,  clcmati-  - 
Mcthnitifii  <jln,-i»*<t,  gladiolus,  and  blur-  and  deep  purple  pi  >lv- 
galas,  grasses  with  \\hitt1  -tarrv  semi-vessels,  and  -pik«-let-  .1)' 
brownish  red  and  yellow.  He- ides  thc-e  there  were  beautiful 
blue  flowering  bulbs,  and  new  flower-  of'  jtrettv  delicate  fbnn 
and  but  little  >cent.  To  this  li.-t  mav  be  added  bal.-ams.  corn- 


(W4  KI.oWKIlS    AM>    KI.OOHS. 

jvo-itie  of  blood-n-d  color  and  of  purple;  other  flowers  of  liver 
color,  bright  canarv  vrllow,  pink  orchids  on  .-pikes  tliieklv 
covered  :il!  round,  and  of  three  inches  in  length  ;  -piderwort.s 
of  line  l»!ne  «T  yellow  or  even  pink.  OilVereiit  colored  ax'lejH'- 
dial- ;  Ix-autiful  vdlow  and  red  umbelliferous  flowering  plant.-; 
ilil!  and  wild  par-nip-  ;  pretty  tlowerv  ahn-s,  vellow  and  nil.  in 
OIK-  wlnirl  of  l>|..--om-  ;  j>c;is,  anil  tnanv  other  flowering  plants 
\\  liifli  In-  did  not  know. 

1 1  i-  verv  Ix-autiful  to  think  of  the  -uflcrcr  amid  sneh  annov- 
aii'-t-.  and  exposed  to  -ndi  hard.-hips,  noticing  tlu>e  delicate 
f.-atitr---  of  nature  with  -o  nuieli  eare  and  plea.-nre.  These 
l>eautiful  flowers  were  like  the  -tar-  which  be-gem  the  darkwss 
to  i-.-rnind  11-  that  darkmx  i.-  not  al>-«»lnte;  or  like  the  little 
d>-«-d-  «•!'  kindn«  ~~,  or  the  little  happinesses,  \s  hieh  eonie  to  n-  in 
tlf  niiil-t  of  pi-riod-  of  di-appointnient  and  protrai-tetl  -orrow, 
t"  -:i>  !!'•••  onr  niunnurinir-  and  pn-\>  nt  our  de-pair.  Living 
thinj;-  in-tinetivelv  dn-w  l»aek  fn»in  tin  l»«ird--i>  "1  tin-  lliH>de<l 
«-<'!inM-\  ;  ll'!\\«r-  hliMitned  ilown  to  t  he  ed^e  of  the  \\  ;it«  i>,  and 
liI-Hiiin-d  :t-  \»  ant  ifnliv  on  e\-er\-  -pot  of  e.\)Hi>ed  ;jr<'iind  a-  they 
i-onld  hav«-  iln'i'-  it'  \\ifi-i-  had  lifen  \\«  ll«.od-  surrounding:  them. 
\V«-  i-ami"t  think  of  anvtliing  el-e  whieh  -o  happiU  repre-.  nt- 
t hi'  ini-ren--  of  (  Jod. 

Manv  nf  thi-  river-  had  to  l»e  forded;  and  though  it  would 
-••••in  a  ditli'-ult  ta-k  lor  one  entinlv  nneneuinliei'ed  to  m«t 
thri-njh,  hi-  rii--n  n-il>lv  earrieil  him.  'I  h«-  timidity  and  nn- 
tri-'ii'Hii]'--  of  th.'  jd-ojile  ifn-atlv  atfiiravat^l  their  e..nditi.in. 
Tli.  \  i-ipiild  '_"-t  ii"  relialile  ^iiide  or  eorreet  information;  ;ll,,| 
t!i.  \v«'ath«-r  \'.a-  -ii'-h  that  no  oli^ervation.s  eonM  !><•  made  on 
\\hi'-h  th-  v  e..uld  -I'  |"  nd  in  -hapin^  their  eniir-e. 

'I'..  1..-  tin!--  m:ir«-hiii'_r  l-lindK',  -<-anr  il\  pr"\id.-l  with  f>od, 
:ilir  P!II(I-!\  ill  nni'-h  "t'  tin-  time.  \\i>nld  -'''in  t"  !•<•  <  iii«n_di  I" 
}ir-:il.  t!"  -'..lit'--!  -pirit,  \-t  tin-  wonderful  man  ii"  vi-r  "ii'V 

1 1 ...!..  d  l.-i.-i.       n  "i  •  \\  "fd  "!  ir  r<--<  'Ii  it  ion      l.ut  on,  mi.  el  inking 

r.,'1!  i  M.  .  ,:u  pi .  !n  n-il  •!••  |>-  rl  ina-'it  \'  I"  hi-  aim,  IH  pri --i-d  l"r- 
\\.ird.  I  IP  HP  in»randuni  ofi.n»-  da\ '-  f\p<  I'li-ii'-f  will  illn-lrale 
t!,.-  dnadru!  mar.  h  : 

"./. •  ,  '.!  I .       \\'.  iif  •  .n  i-.i-t  aii'L  north'-a-l  tn  a\  «.id  f  h«-  d«-i-p 

j.-t:?  "I  a  !;ti.-'-  rivr.  whi-'h  riijiiir«-  t  \\  ••  e:in..i-,  Lnl  tin-  m<'ii 
fu  :,'  l.\  tiii  .!,!•!'  u  .u!d  ••••rtaiidv  hi<l-  th'-in.  \\Ynt  one  and 


FOKIMNG    UIVKKS.  (,  )7 

three-quarters  hour's  journey  to  a  large  stream  throti'_r'i  dri//ling 
r:iiu,  :it  lea-t  three  hilliilre<l  yanls  of  deep  water,  amon_'-t  n-dges 
ami  -ponies  of  mic  hundred  yanU.  <  )ue  part  wa-  m-ek-deep 
lor  fifty  vards,  ami  the  water  cold.  \\'t;  plunged  in  elephants' 

foot-prints  one  hour  and  a  hall',  then  eaine  on  one  hour  to  a 
small  rivulet  ten  feet  liroad,  hut  waist-deep,  bridge  covered  and 
broken  down.  Carrying  me  aero--;  one  <>l  the  broad,  deep  sedgy 
rivers  is  reallv  a  very  ditlieult  ta-L  <  >ne  we  ep.-- ed  was  at 
least  two  thousand  feet  broad,  or  more  than  three  hundred  yards. 
The  first  part,  the  main  stream,  eame  up  to  Su-i's  moiitli,  ;uid 
welted  my  seat  and  legs.  (  )ne  held  up  my  pi-tol  behind,  then 
one  alter  another  took  a  turn,  ami  when  he  .sink  into  a  deep 
elephant's  toot-print,  he  required  two  to  lift  him,  -o  a>  to  ^ain  a 
footinj  on  the  level,  \vhieh  was  over  waist-deep.  Others  went 
on,  and  bent  down  the  i^rass,  to  insure  some  footing'  ('ii  the 
side  of  the  elephants'  path.  Kverv  ten  or  twelve  paces  brought 
us  to  a  clear  stream,  flowing  fast  in  its  own  channel,  while  over 
all  a  strong  current  came  bodily  through  all  the  rn-lies  and 
aquatic  plants.  Susi  had  the  first  spell,  then  Farijala,  then  a 
tall,  stout,  Arab-looking  man,  then  Amoda,  then  Chanda,  then 
Wade  Sale,  and  each  time  I  was  lifted  ofl'  bodilv,  and  put  on 
another  pair  of  stout,  willing  shoulders,  and  lil'tv  vards  put  them 
out  of  breath:  no  wonder!  It  was  sore  on  the  women  folk  of 
our  |>artv.  It  took  us  lull  an  hour  and  a  half  for  all  to  cross 
over,  and  several  eame  over  turn  to  help  me  and  their  friends. 
The  water  was  cold,  and  so  was  the  wind,  but  no  leeelus  plagued 
us.  We  had  to  hasten  on  the  building  of  sheds  after  crossing 
the  second  rivulet,  as  rain  threatened  us.  Alter  1  p.  \i.  it  eame 
on  a  pouring  cold  rain,  when  we  were  all  under  cover.  \Ve  are 
anxious  about  food.  The  lake  is  near,  but  we  are  nut  -nre  of 
provisions,  as  there  have  been  changes  of'  population.  Our 
proj;re>s  j-  distressujirlv  slow.  \\  et,  wet.  wet  :  slop.pv  weather, 
trulv,  and  no  observations,  cxeepl  that  the  land  near  the  lake 
heiii'_r  verv  level  the  rivers  -pread  out  into  broad  frith-*  and 
sponges." 

The  >t reams  were  -o  numerous  ihat  e\vn  I>r.  I,i\-in---tnn,> 
him-elt'  was  perplexed.  The  people  had  been  unable  to  find 
name-  tor  them,  and  the  catalogue  which  weeouM  -'li-an  from 
the  doctor's  journal  would  take  the  premium  a-  a  punitive  ex"»- 


r,fS  THK    LAST    IJIUTH1>AV. 

ci-e  lor  tlr-t-e]a--  ii>nvi«-t«.  Much  nf  the  country  \v:is  of  course- 
utterly  dc-olatc.  N.I  laiinaii  bcini;  could  live  in  the  inid-t  of 
.-uch  tl  ">d- ;  all  wa^  water,  water;  nu  land;  a  wilderness  of 
wat"  r  ;  t!i<-  antipo.lr;  the  ^-orx-hing  wilderness  of  sciiitl,  where 
iMMir  ( 'holm  wandenti. 

Til.-  llnod-  .jave  the  -it'-  of  tin*  little  villages  that  were  s<t  n 
the  appearance  »f  i-!aml-,  ami  the  doctor  >c«  m-  t<>  have  had  the 
ijiiju'r-.-ion  that  thcv  \\t-rc  rcallv  in  the  shallow  |M>rtions  <»!'  tlu- 
lake.  Mui'h  '•('  the  tiim-  the  entire  party  hail  t<>  lie  tran-]»"rte<l 
tVuin  pl.iee  tu  [ilact*  in  the  small,  un-atc  i-aiiue-  ut  tishcrtuou. 
The  i.l.l  di>onlfr  rtvurnnl  nmrc  iVnjucntly  and  viuK-ntly,  and 
ni'i-t  -"j.-inii  ami  an\i<iii>  rrtlc«*tioii^  I'Ti'i-'l  lliciilM-lvfS  on  the 
-utl'-rer.  \\'c  -«•»•  tin  in  in  -neh  \\nr.l-  a-  the  following,  which 
wen-  t'.uii'l  entered  in  hi-  \»»  -U<  t-l>""k  :  "If  the  ^>«n\  L<»nl 
jive-  me  I'avir  and  jM-nnit-  me  to  lini-h  mv  \\drk,  I  .-hall 
thank  and  1)1---  liitu,  tiimi^h  it  ha-e..-i  nic  untold  toil,  pain, 
and  ti'n'ilile;  thi-  trip  hu-  made  mv  hair  all  «;niy."  (  )n!\-  "lie 

ll.ijH-    -.  .'Ille.!    to    lie    let't     til.    Ill    :     the    \\at-T    nil     ill-'    phlill     \\  a-    deeper 

and  d- ••  p'-r.  Tin-  L«»t'n  had  Keen  epi-^-d  and  the  (  'haml>e/e  \va- 
L'liir.-  them  — ln-\-iii)d,  the  i-laiid-hoinc  of  Matipa.  Alter  ine\- 
pr'---ili!e  hard-hip-  and  pei-j.l.-\il  ie-,  that  p!:u-e  \va-  r.aeht-d  <>n 
ill.-  I'd  of  Mareh.  Then-  \\  a-  no  ineinorv  <>r  tnulitiuii  nf  anv 
K\iro[M-:iii  h:i\'in_r  ln-en  there  In-l-.i-e.  '1  he  difficulties  in-eparalile 
tVoin  th«-  lo.-alitv  \\i'i'e  incrca.-e«l  mi\v  1>\  the  p.  rli.lv  »t'  Majuda, 
\\  ho  iiml.T  mo-t  tl.ttt.-rinj-  |ir.-t' ne.  -  \\a-  -o.m  t'oimd  t«>  l>e:tet- 
'n_r  t!i'  \  i!!:iin.  Th<-  pr..:u:-i'd  caiim  -  did  not  come.  The  das- 
pa--e<l,  and  ih-  l!"/»  ••/'  V'-r.-h.  The  la-t  liirthday  came  in  the 
mid-!  •.;  tic-  '_'i''-:it'--t  trial-;  mi  that  dav  I  >r.  I  .i\  in--(oiie  \vn.te 
th.-  ehara  -ti-ri-tic  lin.-  :  "  Thank-  to  the  A  IniMi!  \  I'L-.  r\ .  r  ,.(" 
ni'-n  lor  pr.-i  rvinc_r  m*'  thu-  lar  on  the  |.  urm-v  »\  lil.-.  (  'an  I 
h.  ip-  |.  .r  nit  in  i  at  <•  -m-.  •«--'.'  -..  ma  UN  i»l»-tae!i--  ha\  ••  ar,  -•  n  !  I  .< -i 
li.it  >-ila;i  pr.  \ail  ovr  m.-,  <  )  m\  Lord  .l.--n-."  \'.-i-i!\-.  he 
l.i i.  •.  in  \\  hoin  h>-  had  !«•!;•  \.d  ;  '  Jo.  1  \va-  lh«Te  :  an  ntiiiii|>re>eiit 
•  i ...  i  . 

\'  ij'll     'h--     cail'ie-      \\eVe     ol  ,1  ;i ;  1 1.  .  1    ;      MH!',       ulli'll      the     chief 

nnd   !.i-   p-  opli    had   i  <  ••••  •;  \  •  d  a  Inn!  thai  I  h.    p.  a-  .  ai  •!«  man  nii_'ht 

•-.i     .          ••  I'oii-.      \:  •!  on  i|,,    l;ft!.'  i-lt't    Luan_'\\a.  -urroiin.  I'd 

i  .d-  MI-  -      "!    ',-.  i'.  r,  I  h'1    I'l'.iv  ••    man   \\  rot.'  , •!•';! i  ii    in   hi* 

N  •  ' : .       '  •   n  •;  h .  \      h  a! !   m.i  .,<•  !n> 


KI'FFKHIN(;S    AND    I.<  ).\(.  IN<iS.  W.) 

despair.  I  encourage  myself  in  the  Lord  my  <iod,  and  J^D  for- 
ward." At  length  tin-  Cliainlx'/o  wa.s  behind  them,  with  it-- 
rushing  Hood — hut  all  was  Hood  still.  Thcv  It-It  Kabinga's 
with  their  baggage  in  canoes  and  the  men  wading  be.-id<-  them, 
whilst  tin-  doctor  hiinscM'  was  pulled  along  in  a  canoe  nearer 
the  lake  in  deeper  water.  Pitiless  rains  from  alxive  conspired 
with  the  lloods  around  them.  There  was  no  c.-cape  ;  no  respite. 
The  heavv  exertions,  coupled  with  constant  exposure,  extreme 
anxiety  and  annovance,  inseparable  Iroin  the  care  of  so  large  a 
partv  in  such  a  realm  of  water,  brought  on  another  severe  attack. 
The  10th  of  April  he  writes:  "  I  am  pale,  bloodless,  and  weak 
from  bleeding  profusely  ever  si  nee  tlie  .'>lst  of  March  la.-t  :  an 
arterv  gives  oil' a  copious  stream,  and  takes  awav  mv  -tren^ili  :  " 
then  he  exclaims:  "Oh,  how  I  long  to  be  permitted  by  the 
Over-power  to  finish  my  work  !  " 

It  is  almost  incredible  that  this  man  should  still  inn.-t  on 
tottering  along — hours  at  a  time.  But  even  the  most  powerful 
will  must  fail  some  time  to  sustain  a  human  bodv,  and  at  la.-t 
Dr.  Livingstone  was  obliged  to  submit  to  the  kindness  of  lu- 
men who  were  >o  eager  to  carry  him,  as  they  >aw  how  rapidly 
his  strength  was  failing.  At  Chinatna  thev  were  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Lolotikila — the  loth  of  April.  The  dry  season  \\a- 
now  coming  on;  the  skv  was  clearing  and  the  southeast  wind 
was  beginning  to  blow.  The  rain-tall  was  estimated  at  sevcntv- 
three  inches — six  feet! — much  the  heaviest  ever  known  in  that 
latitude.  The  doctor  was  able  then  with  the  .stump  of  a  pencil 
to  enter  a  rather  more  extensive  sketch  of'  the  country  than 
Usual;  of  it  he  savs  :  "One  sees  interminable  grassv  prairiis 
with  lines  of  trees,  occupying  quarters  of  miles  in  breadth,  and 
with  these  give  wav  to  boii'ja  or  prairie  a^ain.  The  bouifa  j- 
ilooded  annually,  but  its  vegetation  consists  of  drv-laiul  gi-a.~se-. 
Oilier  bouga  extend  out  from  the  lake  up  to  fortv  miles,  ai:«.'. 
are  known  bv  a<juatic  vegetation,  such  as  lotus,  |tapvru-.  arunir, 
rushes  of  different  species,  and  manv  kinds  of  juireK'  atMiatic 
subaqueous  plants  which  -end  up  their  tlowers  onlv  to  fnictitV 
in  the  sun,  and  then  sink  to  ripen  one  bunch  after  another. 
Others,  with  great  rabbage-looking  Iea\es.  -ccin  to  remain 
alwavs  at  the  bottom.  The  vounir  of  !i-h  -warm,  and  bob  in 
ami  ;;iit  from  the  Icavo.  A  specie.-  ot  sott  ni".-.-  grows  on  mo-i 


f,}0  KALI--    TO    THK    GROUND. 

plant-,  and  Mt-iii-  t"  U-  ^ood  foddi-r  for  fi-ho,  fitted  by  hooked 
or  tiiriutl-up  i HIM--  in  ^nide  it  into  their  maw.-. 

••  ( )iic  -\*i "ii>  ft  ti-h  ha-  tin-  lower  jaw  turned  down  into  a 
hook,  \\hieh  etiaMc-  tin-  annual  to  hold  it.-  inoiitli  clo-t-  tn  the 
jilaiit  a-  it  -jdide-  up  or  diiwn,  flicking  in  all  tin-  soft  pulpy 
food.  1  In-  -ujM-ralmndaiMv  of  ^elatinotis  nutriment  make.-  tln-.-e 
-warm*  r-  iii'Tea-c  in  l>n!k  with  extraordinary  rapidity,  and  the 

|M-M!      -llpplv     (it     till1     jN-oplc     i-      plcllteoll-,     HI    con-e<p|cll<V.        'Jill' 

nuinhcr  < >f  ti-li  caught  l>v  \\rir~,  ha.-kfts,  and  n«-t.>  u<>\v,  a.%  thr 
\\ati-r-  ili-i-lini-,  i-  pr'idi_ri"ii~.  1  IK-  li~h  ki'l  tlirir  i'lrincnt  1«- 
c"iuin_r  in-nllii-ii  ni  \'»r  o unfurl,  and  rrtin-  trmn  «iin-  Imn^a  I" 
anothi-r  toward-  tlii-  !:ik«- ;  tin-  narrowi  r  parts  arr  duly  prt-parcil 
liv  wi-ir-  t"  taki-  advanla_'<-  of  tln-ir  iin-o-ilit- ;  tin-  MIII  hrat 

M-cIU-   to  o|i|i|'i--   tlicin    and    liil'i-i-    lln-lil    to   lire.         \\  Illl    till1  -olltil- 

ca-t  a-  -rial  i-nrrmt  i-om  ••-  li<  -a!  and  -nit  rim---.  A  Ulankrt  i- 
><-an-r!v  ii'-i-d'd  till  tin-  rarlv  limir-  "f  tin-  morning,  ami  IK-IT, 
afi«-r  tlii-  tnrtlf  dov«-  and  i-o,-k-  -^\\'<-  out  tln-ir  warning  rail-  to 
tin-  watchful,  th'-  fi-li-'-a-^Ii-  iil't-  iij>  hi-  n-inarkalilc  voice.  It  i- 
pit'-ln-d  in  a  hi-_di  fal-«-:in  k«  \  .  vi-rv  loud,  and  -«-i-in-  a-  il  h<- 
\\-TC  calling  t-i  -niii'-  on.-  in  liir  niiic-r  \\..rld.  (  >n<-'-  In-ard,  hi- 
wi-ird  uncartlilv  voice  can  in-vcr  IK-  forgot ti-n—il  -tick-,  t«>  out- 
tlir«m^li  lilt-." 

A  t'  '.\  dav-  ni'iri-  IP-  -ccin.-d  to  ~ii-tain  hi-  inti-rr-t  in  tin- 
ci.nnii-\,  l.iii  he  wa-  sinkin-j  rajiidlv  ;  he  liccaiuc  nnahh1  t"  «lo 
more  than  make  the  -horh— I  im-moranda.  <  hi  ihe  'Jl-i  "t  April 
he  tried  to  ride  IMI  the  reiiiaiiiiii-_r  donki-v,  "  lull  IP-  had  onlv  _r"iie 
a  -h'-rt  di-tance  when  h-  !••!!  !••  tin-  _M-oini'l  nlti-rlv  e\liau-t«d 
and  f'aint.  Sn-i  inini'iliat<-lv  undid  hi-  licit  ;md  |ii-t«il.  and 
pi'-k.-d  up  In-  cap  wliU'h  had  dfopjicd  ";!'.  uhih-  ('iiinna  threw 
d"\\  n  hi-  _run  and  ran  \-<  -?-.p  tin-  m<  n  "ii  ahead.  \\  h-  n  h<-  \^«\ 
!M.  k  tie  d'.'-t.,r  -aid.  '  (  'hnina.  I  ha\>  L-l  -M  mii'-h  I. !"•••!  th-  P- 
-  ir«  iii'ip1  -trrn^th  let't  in  mv  !••_'-:  vi.ii  inn-l  carrv  IIP.'  ||.- 
\\  i-  t  !p  n  a--i-!i-(|  -j-i-ur  !\  t'  i  In-  -li'iiildi  r-.  and,  Ipildiii^  t  IP-  man'- 
h-  ad  t"  -!•  a.ly  him--'!',  na-  I..  .IIP  IM-  k  I- .  !  IP-  \  i !  !:i  .:••  and  p!a«  «  d 
In  r!,.  i.'i1  IP-  hid  -o  ivc,nt'i\  |,.|t.  It  \\:i-  ne.t— ar\  \->  let  the 
•  !,!•!  \I '!  i  'i . i  /  r1.  i  in!  >-.{  I,  IP  >\\  -\lit!  had  happened,  and  !•  >r  t  ln- 
p1!1:-  I1  I .; '.  in_'-t<'fp  d-  -p.it«  IP  d  a  HP --•  n_"  r.  ll<-  \\.i- 

d  : .  •  ••  I  i"  .i-l.  ii  i  in  !••  -  np|«!\  a  ^n;.|e  f.  >r  t  he  ip-\  t  dav,  a-  IP- 
tni  •.  d  t  h-  1 1  t"  !'i'.'  i  •  '\  •  red  -.i  lar  a-  t-i  he  ahle  to  mar-  h  : 


T1IK    LAST    WKITTKN    WOKPH.  (^j  j 

the  answer  w:w,  '  Stay  as  long  as  you  wish,  ami  when  you  want 
guides  to   Kalcnganjovu's  you  shall  have  them.'  ' 

His  servants  sav  that  instead  of  rallying  thev  saw  that  his 
strength  was  iHvotning  less  and  less,  and  in  order  to  carry  him 
thcv  inaile  a  kitanda  of  Wood,  con.-i-ting  of  two  side  pieces  of 
seven  feet  in  length,  crossed  with  rails  three  feet  IODLS  and  alMnit 
four  inches  apart,  the  whole  hished  strongly  together.  Thi* 
framework  was  covered  with  grass,  and  a  blanket  laid  on  it. 
Siting  from  a  |»ole,  and  lw»rne  Ix-tween  two  .-trout;  men,  it  made 
a  tolerable  palanquin,  and  on  this  the  exhausted  traveller  was 
conveyd  to  the  next  village  through  a  floo<led  gr:L-s  plain.  To 
render  the  Uitanda  more  eomfortiihle  another  blanket  was  sus- 
pended acro-s  the  pole,  so  as  to  hang  down  on  either  side,  and 
allow  the  air  to  pass  under  whilst  the  sun's  ravs  were  fended  oil' 
from  the  siek  man.  lie  was  borne  as  tenderlv  as  po-.-iblc  Ir- 
itis faithful  men,  Chuma  or  Su-i  ;  one  remained  eoiistantlv  !»••- 
side  him.  The  doetor  only  had  strength  to  enter  the  da\>  ot' 
the  month— 22d,  2:>>d,  LMth,  25th,  2Gth.  On  the  27th  he 
"seems  to  have  been  almost  dyin<;."  That  dav  he  wrote  hi- 
last  words;  thev  were  these: 

"A/IOC/.W/  KJI  iji'ift',  ((nil  I'liiintii  ;  /'i  <•<»•!  /•  •  xi'nf  f'i  f/i/i/  niili'li 
r/ootx.  1IV  ift'i'  on  tin'  Imnkx  »j  ft.  3fi  Ulcimn, 

There  seems  to  have  been  an  effort  to  j^et  sotnethin-j  \\h:eh 
he  trusted  would  restore  his  strength,  but  the  "  Ma/.itu  had 
taken  pvervthing/' 

They  were  at  the  village  of  Kaliinganjovu  from  the  27th  t«- 
the  2!'th.  He  was  a  generous-hearted  man,  and  manifested 
mnrh  real  sympathy  for  the  sullerer,  and  went  himself  t«>  -ti|i«'r- 
intetid  the  jia—au'e  of  tlu1  stream.  \\  hen  they  were  readv  to  -K 
out  SMS!  went  into  the  hut  of  Hr.  Livingstone,  but  the  doet'>r 
\vasunabletowalk  to  tho  door.  His  nu-n  remoytnl  one  side  of 
the  frail  abode,  and  plaeinir  the  kitanda  bv  the  side  ot'  hi-  bed, 
lilted  him  treutlv  to  it,  and  raisint;-  the  burden  to  their  shoulders 
marched  out  of  the  village. 

"Their  course  was  in  the  direction  ot'  the  -tivam.  and  they 
f  dlowetl  it  till  thev  came  to  a  reach  when-  the  eiiri'cnt  wa-  un- 
interrupted  bv  the  numerou-  little  island- winch  -t"od  prirtlv  in 
the  river  and  partlv  in  the  flood  <>n  the  iij>pcr  water-.  Kaliin- 
ganjovu was  seated  on  a  knoll,  and  active.lv  superintended  the 


>4  CARKIKb    ON    A    KITANHA. 

embarkation,  v.hil-t  I>r.  Livingstone  told  ]\\<  ln-aivrs  to  take 
him  t<>  a  tree  at  a  little  di-tance  <>H',  that  In-  mi^ht  rest  in  the 
-'i  i  le  till  tmi-t  of  tin-  liU'ii  were  on  the  other  -ide.  A  pwnl 
'  a!  of  care  u.i-  rei jti itvd,  tor  the  river,  l>v  iii)  mean-  a  lanje  one 
i  ordinarv  time-,  -pread  its  waters  in  all  tlirivtiuns,  so  that  a 
I 'i!-e  -tep,  .>r  a  -tnriiMc  in  any  nn-ivn  hole,  would  have  drenehed 
t!i"  invalid  and  the  l>ed  al-o  on  which  he  was  <-arried. 

"  T!ie  pa--a_'e  occupied  -ome  time,  and  then  came  the  difficult 
f.!-!v  of  eonv'-vin^  the  doctor  a<To--,  for  the  canoe-  were  not 
v.  Me  enough  to  allow  the  kitanda  t<>  l»e  tli'jMisitttl  in  the  lw>ttoni 
nt'either  oi'  them.  Hitherto,  no  matter  h<>\v  weak,  Livinjrstone 
had  alwav-  li.-en  alile  t«>  -it  in  the  vari<>n-  canoe-  thev  had  n-eil 
mi  like  (M-ca-ioii-,  l»tit  ii-iw  he  had  n«  power  t"  do  .-o.  Taking 
iii-  K*d  nil'  the  kitanda,  tli«A-  laid  it  in  the  Ixittoin  «.}'  the 
-li-Miij'--!  eaii'M-,  and  tri'^l  to  lift  him;  luit  he  could  not  hear  the 
piin  <»t'  a  hand  iN-in^  pas-e<l  umli-r  hi-  hack.  lieckonint;  to 
( 'hnma,  in  a  tiiint  voice  he  a-ked  him  to  stoop  down  over  him 
a-  !o\v  a-  p  '--!!•!•-.  -o  that  he  mj/ht  cla-p  hi-  hand-  to^ither 
liehind  h:-  head,  directing  him  at  the  same  time  ho\\  to  avoid 
pnnin_r  anv  prc--ni'e  on  the  Itunhar  region  of'  tin  l.ac!%  ;  in  thi- 
\vav  IP-  wa-  dcpo-it.-d  in  the  liottom  (.i'  the  caniK-,  ami  i|iii<-klv 
t'ciT-ed  aero—  the  Mnlilamo  1>\-  (  'ho\\  p<  j-e,  Sn-i.  I-'ai  ijala,  and 
<  'hnma.  The  -ime  prei-:intions  were  n-ed  <>n  the  other  -ide; 
the  kitanda  ua-  l>ron_dit  clo-i-  to  the  canoe,  -o  a-  t"  pnA'ent  anv 
nniice. --arv  jiain  in  dix'mharkin^. 

">:]-'  ii'i-.\  liiii'ried  on  ahead  to  reach  (  'hitaml'o'-  village,  and 
-'ip'-r;n!e;id  the  building  of  aiiothrr  hoti-e.  I-'oi-  the  lir-t  mile 
or  f.vo  thev  had  to  carrv  the  doctor  through  -\\ani|>-  and 
p!.i-!ic-.  _'!  i  1  to  reach  -oiuethin-j-  like  a  dr\-  jilain  at  la-t. 

"  I-     '.oii!  1  -.-em  that    hi-  -tniiL'th  \\a-  here  at    i;-  Very   lo\\.-t 

ili!..      ( 'hum  i.  one   of'  hi-    ln-arer-    on   the-ethe  la-'   \\eary  miles 

t!,'        -.a!    traveller   ua-    de-tin,  d    to    accomjili-h,  -a\  -    tliat    they 

,-i-rv   iio-.\    and   then   implored   to  -t..p  and    p!ac'     their  hur 

•  ..,    t'ie     _'[•., :md.       So    jri-at    \\ .  I'e    the    p;iii::--    ••!    In-    di-ia-o 

d  ..    :i/  '.',:-  .1  i\    th.it    ic    could   make  no  att'-mp'    t"  -land,  ain't    if 

1  ";'••   1  f  .r  a  ;'    ,   \  ard-  a  dro\\  -im  --  came  over  him  \\  ln>  ii  alarmed 

•!,     ii    a'.!    «\      --ivi-l\.       '1'hi-   \\a-    -pe.-ially   tin-    .  a-.-    at    "h.    -p,.; 

whe.  ,•  ;i  r  i.  .    -; 1   in   tl.e  p;ith.       1  !•  P-  one  o!'  hi-  atd-ndaiil-  v.  a- 

irill'd     I"    h'ia,  and    «n    -'"••>!!!„'    down     h»'  lollinl   him   linaole  to 


THE    LAST    MILK.  f,  {.', 

upeak  from  faintness.  They  replaced  him  in  the  kitanda,  and 
tnadi'  the  Ix-st  of  their  way  on  the  journey.  Smic  di-tance  far- 
ther on  great  thirst  oppressed  him;  he  a-kcd  them  if  thev  had 
any  water,  hut,  unfortunately,  fur  on<-e  not  a  drop  wa-  to  be 
procured.  Hastening  on  for  fear  of  getting  too  far  separated 
from  the  partv  in  advance,  to  their  great  comfort  they  now  si\v 
Karijala  approaching  with  some  which  Susi  had  thoughtfully 
sent  oil*  from  Chitamho's  village. 

''Still  wending  their  wav  on,  it  seemed  as  if  thev  would  not 
complete  their  task,  lor  again  at  a  clearing  the  sick  man  en- 
treated them  to  place  him  on  the  ground,  and  to  let  him  -tav 
where  he  was.  Fortunately  at  this  moment  some  of  the  out- 
lying huts  of  the  village  came  into  sight,  and  thev  tried  to  rally 
him  hy  telling  him  that  he  would  quickly  he  in  the  hou-c  that 
the  others  had  gone  on  to  build,  hut  thev  were  obliged  as  it  was 
to  allow  him  to  remain  for  an  hour  in  the  native  gardens  out- 
side the  town. 

"On  reaching  their  companions  it  was  found  that  the  work 
was  not  quite  finished,  and  it  became  necessarv  therefore  to  lay 
him  under  the  broad  eaves  of  a  native  hut  till  thing-  were 
ready. 

"Chitambo's  village  at  this  time  was  almost  empty.  When 
the  crops  are  growing  it  is  the  custom  to  erect  little  temporary 
houses  in  the  fields,  and  the  inhabitants,  leaving  their  more  -ub- 
stantial  huts,  pass  the  time  in  watching  their  crops  which  are 
scarcely  more  safe  by  day  than  by  night;  thus  it  was  that  the 
men  found  plenty  of  room  and  shelter  ready  to  their  hand. 
Manv  of  the  people  approached  the  spot  where  he  lav  \\lm~r 
praises  had  reached  them  in  previous  years,  and  in  -Unit  won- 
der thev  stood  round  him  resting  on  their  bow-;.  Slight  drix- 
xliug  shower-  were  falling,  and  as  soon  as  possible  his  limi-e  wu- 
made  readv  and  banked  round  with  earth. 

"  Inside  it,  the  bed  was  raised  from  the  floor  bv  stick-  and 
grass,  occupying  a  position  aero-;-  and  near  to  the  bav-shapi  d 
end  of  the  hut  :  in  the  bav  itself  bale-  and  boxes  were  depo-it.  d, 
nne  of  the  latter  doing  dutv  for  a  table,  on  whieh  the  nu'dieiiM- 
chest  and  -undry  other  things  were  placed.  A  tire  wa-  lighted 
outside,  nearly  opposite  the  door,  whilst  the  boy  Majwara  -lept 
just  within  to  attend  to  his  master's  wants  in  the  night. 


640  THK    LAST    WOIIDS. 

"On  the  .°>0th  of  April,  1ST.''.,  Chi  tain  bo  came  early  to  pay  a 
visit  of  coiirt<->v,  ami  W:L-  shown  into  the  doctor's  presence,  but 
lie  \v:is  obliged  to  .-end  him  away,  telling  him  to  come  again  on 
the  morrow,  \\  hen  he  hojM-d  to  have  more  strength  to  talk  to 
him.  ami  he  \\a.s  not  again  disturbed.  In  the  afternoon  h* 
ii>kiil  Sn-i  to  bring  his  watch  to  the  Ixxlside,  aiul  explained  to 
him  tii--  p"-ition  in  which  to  h»!d  his  hand,  that  it  might  lie  in 
the  palm  whil-t  he  -lowlv  turnrd  the  kev. 

"  S"  tin-  hour-  -tolc  on  till  nightfall.  The  men  .-ilentK  took 
to  their  huts  whili-t  others,  whose  <lnty  it  wa.s  to  keep  \vateh, 
sat  round  the  lires,  all  feeling  that  the  end  eon  hi  not  Ix.'  far  oil'. 
Al>"iit  1  1  r.  M.  Su-i,  who-e  hut  was  clo.-e  by,  w;i>  told  to  go  to 
hi-  ma-ter.  At  the  time  there  were  loud  shouts  in  the  distance, 
and,  "ii  enterinir,  I)r.  Livingstone  said,  'Are  our  men  making 
that  ii"i-e'.''  '  No,'  replied  Sti.-i  ;  '1  can  hoar  from  the  cries 
that  the  people  are  Bearing  away  a  IniH'ulo  from  their  dura  field-.' 
A  few  minute^  afterward-  he  -aid  slowly,  and  evidently  \\au- 
<1»  riiiu'.  '  I-  thi-  the  Luapula '.' '  Su-i  told  him  thev  were  in 
( 'hitamlxi'.-  village,  near  the  Mnlilamo,  when  he  was  -ilnit  lor 
a  wliil'.  A'jain,  >peaking  to  Su-i.  in  Suaheli  thi-  time,  he 
>aid.  'Sikun'gapi  kuenda  Luapula'.''  illow  many  'lay-  i-  it  to 
the  1  .uapula  '.'  * 

"  '  Na  /ani  /ikutatu,  I'wana  '  (I  think  it  i-  three  davs,  ma.-- 
ter i.  r«-pli'-d  Su-i. 

"A  !'-w  M-i-und-  aft'-r,  a-  if  in  ijn-at  pain,  he  half  sighed, 
hall  -aid,  '  <  )ii  d^ar,  dear  !  '  ami  then  dnxcfl  "'1  a^ain. 

'•  It  wa-  alio'it  an  hour  later  that  Sn-i  hi-ard  Majwara  again 
ont-id"  tic-  door,  '  Ilwana  want-  you,  Su-i.'  On  reaching  the 
l,.-d  th«-  do'-toi-  told  him  he  \\i-lied  him  to  l.oil  .-onie  water,  and 
tiir  thi-  pM!'|'o-r  !,«•  went  to  tin-  tire  outside,  and  -oon  returne<l 
\s  it  h  '  1 1-  • -i  •['!'•  r  1.'  tt  !••  full.  (  'al!iii'_r  him  <-!o-i-,  h«-  a-k»  d  him  to 
l.!-:ii_r  ill  iii'-di'-ine-ehcvt  and  to  hold  tip-  candle  near  him.  tor 
t!,.-  in  in  i : "'!'••  d  he  i-onld  hardl v  -e«-.  \\'ith  -jreat  ilillietiltv  Pr. 

I.:1,  ilr.'  -!"  l»        e!ee|iil    lip     .-aloinel.    \\hjell    he    told    Ililll    t"    place    1>V 

IK-  -id-  .  t!i.  ii.  din--  tiir_'  him  to  pour  a  little  water  into  a  eup, 
and  t"  put  anot  ln-i-  i-nipf.  oij.-  l>\  it,  he  .-aid  in  a  1»'.\ ,  t'eehie 
vni'-e.  '  \1!  ii.-!i'  ;  \"ii  i-an  •_'"  "lit  li"\\.'  1  h'--e  \\ere  the  la-t 
\s  i.. rd-  ii'  "•  a-  evi-r  heard  t»  -p<  ak. 

'•  It  mii-i  h.iv'-l"'u  al«)Ut   I   \.  vi.  wh-'ii  Stisi  heard  Majwara'«» 


DEATH. 


ntej)  onro  more.  '  C'omo  to  B  \vana,  F  ntu  afraid;  I  don't  know 
if  he  is  alive.'  The  lad's  evident  alarm  made  Su-i  run  to 
arouse  Chnma,  (  'howperc,  Matthew,  and  Muauyusere,  and  the 
vi\  men  went  immediately  to  the  hut. 

''  Passing  inside  thev  looked  towards  the  bed.  I  >r.  Living- 
stone was  not  lying  on  it,  hut  appeared  to  lx-  engaged  in 
prayer,  and  thev  instinctively  drew  backwards  for  the  in-tant. 
Pointing  to  him,  Majwara  said,  '  \\'hen  1  lay  down  he  wa.-  jn-t 
as  he  is  now,  and  it  is  because  I  find  that  he  doc-  not  move 
that  I  tear  he  is  dead.'  They  a.-ked  the  lad  how  long  he  had 
slept.  Majwara  said  he  could  not  tell,  but  he  wa.-  -ure  that  it 
was  some  considerable  time:  the  men  drew  nearer. 

"A  candle  stuck  bv  its  own  wax  to  the  top  of  the  box  -lied 
a  light  sufficient  for  them  to  .-ee  his  form.  1  >r.  Livingstone  wa.- 
kneeling  bv  the  side  of  his  bed,  his  bodv  stretched  forward,  hi- 
head  buried  in  his  hands  upon  the  pillow.  For  a  minute  they 
\vatehed  him  :  he  did  not  stir,  there  was  no  sign  ot'  breathing  ; 
then  one  of  them,  Matthew,  advanced  softly  to  him  and  placed 
his  hands  to  his  cheeks.  It  was  sufficient  ;  life  had  been  ex- 
tinct some  time,  and  the  body  was  almost  cold:  Living-tone 
was  dead. 

"His  sad-hearted  servants  raised  him  tenderly  up  and  laid 
him  at  full  length  on  the  bed,  then  carefully  covering  him 
they  went  out  into  the  damp  ni^ht  air  to  consult  together.  Jt 
was  not  lonu;  betoiv  the  cocks  crew,  and  the  morning  of  the  4th 
of  Mav  dawned  on  the  scene." 

There  were  no  parting  words.  There  were  thoughts.  (Jod 
onlv  know-  them.  Alone,  on  his  knees,  in  the  heart  of  Africa, 
the  brave,  good  man  died.  His  life  had  been  a  -acriliee;  hi> 
death  was  a  supplication.  He  did  not  give  up  his  work;  he 
resigned  it  to  God. 
38 


CHAPTER    XXXV. 

P.riMAL    AT    WKSTMINSTKK    AHHF.Y. 

The  A'-ki>owK-<li.Mi)<  lit  -Anxi.-ti.-s  of  the  Mm—  The  Council— t'huma  and  Sucl 
t 'InMinho'-i  Kiinln.-v.  Naliv.-  H»li"e*  \»  lh>-  I  ><-a«l  -  1 1  ill  «  ii«-i .-  tin-  B.i-ly 
•A:I-  Pr>-]iar'"l  Tin-  Mat. -rial-  f.r  Prv|>:irini,'  tin-  P>.xly  A  S|»-.-i.il  M.iiini'-r 
Tin-  Finlialinin.-ii!  Tin-  liiM-ri|>ii»n  I'rt-|'aniti"ii  f..r  I>.-|>artiirj  Pr..iui-.--  «f 
« 'hituml"'  lloiit.-  i.t"  |:,.y-  S.-\  .-r.-  Trial-  Th.-  I.nu|iula  <  P-MII.:  An  <  >M 
.-•rxaiit  Aii  A'-<-i'l'-nt  N.i!  i\r  >ur_r.-ry  "An  1  ':it'..rtiiiiat.-  All.i;r"  Tii>- 
FL-ht  Th.-  l:.--uli-  Th.-  i:\,u-.-  nl.j..,-ii,,M  (••  T!a--  Th.-  K.i!  .;i.-..-i  In 
thr  nl.l  path  Tii. •  I.ak.  N.-w  S.TI;C»  Fa-i.-r  P.'.tit.-  |.i  I 'nyany.-niU-  Th.- 
\.-«,  I;..-,  iv..l  l:.-..iu:i..n  ..f  lln-  Mt-n  .hi-litial.!.-  |».-i-.-|.ii..n  A  I'r.-a.llnl 
>:iakf  Arrival  at  I'.a-.n:i..i.i  Tli.-  Prt-.-J.-u-  1'n-i^ht  -Th. rKil«a  K< c. -|.ti..» 
in  l!i!/!:ui'l  IJ.-titii'i.  ati..n  I5uri.il. 

TIM:  curtain  t'all-;  the  drama  ot'  a  wonderful  life  i-  c-lo^^l. 
The  work  U  ended;  the  hero  died  at  hi-  |>o-t.  It  remain- 
only  tor  u-  to  -ee  h"W  faithfully  hi^  followers  cared  I.T  hi- 
remain-,  and  how  well  and  Kravelv  they  \\»n  tor  them-elve-. 
the  gratitude  and  a]ipiau->-  ot'  the  civili/ed  \viirlil.  It  ha-  IH-CII 
nece--arv  to  introduce  the  account  of  tin-  leader-  ot  tin-  caravan 
in  t  he  hoine\\  ard  march  -o  elo-elv,  t  hat  it  i-  dm-  t  he  I  Ji-v.  I  lorace 
\\ "a Her,  t  h<-  di-t  in^iii-hed  eilitor  nf  the  "  1  ,a.-t  .loiirnal-,  '  and  al-o 
Mr.  .lohn  Murrav,  of  London,  the  publisher,  to  accredit  th.-m 
uith  it.  \\  e  (eel  that  the  fader-  of  thi-  liook  \\ill  appreciate 
having  thi-  narrali\e  a-  t'ullv  a-  po--il»lef  and  \\'e  t'--e|  eontident 
a!-o  that  the  gentlemen  named  will  appreciate  mir  moii\-e-  in 
u-iir^  the-e  i'eu  pa_'i  -  ot'  their  work. 

It  \\a-  not  \\itlioiil  -oiue  alarm  that  the  ni'ii  reali/.-.i  (h.ir 
more  immediate  diiliciiltie- :  none  could  -i-e  l>.-iter  than  tin  v 
^hat  <  •  -i:ip!  i-  at  ion-  nnjht  ari-e  m  an  hour. 

I  h'  v  I.  n-  '.\  t  h'-  -up.  r-t  it  ion  -  horror  eon mt 'ted  \\  it  h  I  he  dead 
•o  1 ..-  pre\.dent  in  the  tnl'c-  around  th'-m,  I'.r  tli<-  departed 
-pir.t-  ot  IIP  n  are  universally  l><  IP -vt-d  to  ha\<-  v  .-n^.  anee  and 
iii:-'h.'i  a'  I. .ait  a-  their  rulni-j  id' a  in  the  land  l"\ond  the 
^ra\e.  All  ri'e-  turn  o,,  thi-  l..-lief.  The  religion  of  the 
AlVican  i-  a  uiarv  a':-iiip:  to  propitiate  'h"-e  \\ho  -ho\s  thi-m- 


HT'SI    AND   rill'MA.  >» 

selves  to  IK-  stiH  able  to  haunt  and  destroy,  as  war  come*  or  an 
accident  hap|»cns. 

<  )n  this  account  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  chief  arid 
|icoj)lc  make  common  cause  against  those  \vho  wander  through 
their  territory,  and  have  the  misfortune  to  lo-e  one  o|'  their 
j»artv  l>v  death.  Who  is  to  tell  the  consequences'.'  Such  occur- 
rences are  looked  on  as  most  serious  oflenees,  and  the  men 
regarded  th«*ir  position  with  no  small  apprehension. 

('ailing  the  whole  partv  together,  SUM  and  Chuma  plaeed 
the  state  of  allairs  before  them,  and  asked  what  should  lie  done. 
They  received  a  replv  from  those  whom  Mr.  Stanley  had  cn- 
iraged  l«»r  IV.  Livingstone,  which  was  heart  v  and  unanimous. 
'•  You,"  said  thev,  "  are  old  men  in  travelling  and  in  hardships; 
you  mu-t  act  as  our  chiefs,  and  we  will  promise  to  olx-v  what- 
ever you  order  us  to  do."  From  this  moment  we  may  look  on 
Snsi  and  Chuma  as  the  captains  of  the  caravan.  To  their 
knowledge  of  the  eoiintrv,  of  the  tribes  through  which  they 
were  to  pass,  hut,  above  all,  to  the  sense  of  discipline  and  cohe- 
sion which  was  maintained  throughout,  their  safe  return  to 
Xan/ibar  at  the  head  of  their  men  must,  under  Clod's  ^ood 
guidance,  he  mainlv  attributed. 

All  agreed  that  C 'hitambo  ought  to  be  kept  in  ignorance  of 
,]V.  Livingstone's  decease,  or  otherwise  a  line -o  lu-avv  would  be 
inflicted  upon  them  as  compensation  lor  damage  done  that  their 
means  would  be  crippled,  and  thev  could  hardlv  expect  t<>  pav 
.heir  way  to  the  coa-t.  It  was  decided  that,  come  what  might, 
'lie  bodv  //)">•/  )><'  hnrnc  in  Zmizilmr.  It  wa-  al-o  arranged  to 
take  it  seeretlv,  if  possible,  to  a  hut  at  s«»me  distance  <>iV.  where 
the  nccc-~arv  preparations  could  be  carried  out.  and  llir  tins 
j)iirpose  some  men  wen-  now  despatched  with  axt-  to  cut  woo«l? 
whil-t  others  went  to  collect  gra--.  C'lmma  set  «-tT  to  s«-eC 'hi- 
tambo, and  said  that  thev  wanted  to  build  a  place  outside  tin- 
village,  if  he  would  allow  it.  l!>r  thev  did  ii"t  lik--  living  amon^-t 
the  hnt<.  Ilis  consent  wa-  willinirlv  Lfiveii. 

LattM'  on  iu  the  dav  two  of  the  men  went  t<>  the  people  t-  <  buv 
food,  and  divulged  the  sceret  :  the  chief'  wa~  at  once  informed 
of  what  had  happened,  and  started  for  the  sp.it  on  which  the 
new  buildings  were  hein<_j  set  up.  Appealinir  to  f'hutna,  hr 
said,  "  Why  did  you  ivt  tell  me  the  truth0  I  know  :l:at  yur 


<W2  <  II ITA MH()'s    KINDNESS. 

tiKistor  died  last  nielli.  You  were  afraid  to  l«-t  me  know,  but 
tlo  not  fear  anv  longer.  I,  too,  have  tnivi'Ilinl,  and  inoiv  than 
once  have  Iteen  to  ]>wani  ithecoa-P,  liHon1  tin-  country  on  the 
nad  wa-  de-t  roved  I iv  the  Ma/itn.  I  know  that  you  have  no 
bad  ni'itiv-  -  in  eominir  to  our  land,  ami  death  often  happen*  t«> 
traveller^  in  th'-ir  journey,."  Reassured  liy  this  s]»eech,  they 
t.,Id  him  nt'  their  intention  to  prepare  the  body  and  to  take  it 
with  th'-in.  He,  liowever,  said  it  would  he  far  better  (<>  hury  it 
then-,  f.r  tln-v  were  undertaking  :m  impossible  ta-k  ;  lint  tiny 
held  t"  their  rc-olution.  The  enrp-e  \va-  conveved  to  the  nev, 
hut  the  -aine  dav  nil  the  kitanda,  carei'ully  eovere<l  with  clntli 
and  a  1  ilanket. 

TI:e  n- \!  iii'iriiinj- Su-i  paid  a  visit  to  C'hitaiulM),  making  liiin 
a  hand^'tii'-  pre-eiit  and  neeiviii^  in  i-eturn  a  kind  \\eleoine. 
]'i»!lnw;n^  "in  hi-  -n_rj;e.~t i< 'ii,  it  \\a-  a_r!eed  that  all  honor- 
>h<iu!d  K«-  -!i"\\;i  t'>  the  d'-ad.  and  the  eu-tmnarv  mourning  \va» 
arranged  !'« >rlli\vit!i. 

At  th«-  jii-"ji«-r  time,  (  'hitainho,  li-adin_r  hi-  proplt-  and  aee  HH- 
pani'd  )'\  hi-  \\ive-,  eaine  to  the  new  -'•' t  li  ni'-:it.  He  \\a-  clad 
i;i  a  Kr-iad  re.l  el,,th,  whieh  e,,\-ered  the  -h.  nil-ler-,  whil-t  the 
wrapping  ••!'  native  e.iitcn  eluth,  wurn  round  the  \\ai-t,  (ell  a- 
l.i\-.  a-  hi-  aiikli--.  Al!  earri-'d  how-,  arrow-,  and  sjM-ars,  l»ul  ii" 
•_Min-  w»-!-«-  -i-cn.  '\'\\»  dnnnni'T-  i"ined  in  the  loud  wailing 
lani'-nt:iti"n.  \\lii-  !i  -"  indelililv  inipre--.--  it-elfmi  the  nieinorie- 
..f  p.-. pie  \\h.i  have  h'-anl  ii  in  t!ie  Ma-t,  \\hil-t  the  hand  of  -er- 
vant-  lir-d  v«i]!.'V  aft'-r  \-i.llev  in  the  air.  aeciirdinu  l»  the  -triet 
ni!e  .,}'  I'-.i-tu,'!!'--!-  and  Aral'-  mi  -ueh  oeea-ion-. 

A-    \ef     :,.. tiling    had    I"''   !l    il"!je    t-i    the    c,,r|i-e. 

\  -eparate  hut  \MI-  ii'-n-  hnilt,  al'"iil  ninetv  feet  from  the 
|,!-iii.-i|i:i!  one.  It  v.a-  enii-lrueted  in  -neh  a  manner  that  it 
J;,,uM  !.-•  ..p.-n  t"  the  air  at  tip'  top,  and  -n!Vi--i«  nt  ly  -t  r-  -n^  1" 
rlefV  th--  :ittem|it-  "t'  anv  uild  l»-a-t  t"  I'l'eak  thr.'ii^h  it. 
r'irm'.v  d::-,'-n  Uon^ln  and  -aplnp,'-  \\i-re  planted  -!"!••  1>\  -ide 
and  l.'-und  ;  ..''•(ln-r,  -"  a-  t"  make  a  regular  -tnekadc.  <'!•-.  (•• 
)!,>  l.ij'.l.rn^-  the  men  i-oii-triieted  theii-  hilt-,  and.  linallv,  the 
v,  },,.',<  -.  r  • '.  HP  nt  had  an-'t  her  hi_'h  -t-iekad--  earri-'d  c  •  'inp!et.'!\ 
afiitid  .'. 

A  i  i  ,i!i  ;•  in-  n?-  wi-j-e  made  the  -ame  dav  t"  treat  the  eurp--- 
On  th«-  !'•'  •  ''\  iir_'  lii"rni!i/.  <  >ne  ,  ,|  the  rii'-li,  Safeiie,  \\  h;!-i  \<\ 


A    SPKCIAL    MOfKNKK.  i;Vi 

Kalun^anjovu's  district,  bought  :i  lar^e  cpiantity  of  suit  :  this 
was  pureha.-ed  nC  him  fur  sixteen  -trin--of  Lead-;  th.-i<-  \\;u 
Usides  MMiie  brandv  in  tin-  doctor'-  *tort>,  ami  \\ith  the-e  lew 
materials  thev  hoped  to  sueeeetl  in  their  object. 

Farijala  \v:is  appointed  to  tin;  mves-ary  task.  He  had  picked 
up  Mime  knowledge  df  the  nu'thod  pursued  iu  making  po-t- 
inortem  examination-,  whilst  a  servant  t<>  a  doctor  at  Zanzi- 
l>ar,  and,  at  \\\>  reipicst,  ( 'an-a>,  one  «>!'  tlie  Na>-K  l<  Imy-,  \V;LS 
t«»l»l  •>(!'  to  assist  him.  Previous  to  thi.-,  however,  early  mi  the 
i>d  of  Mav,  a  >peeial  iiioiinier  arrived.  He  came  with  thr 
anklets  whieJi  are  worn  on  tlirsr  occasions,  coinjMix-d  ot  ruw^  of 
hollow  seed-vessels,  fitted  with  rattling  pelihl.'-,  and  in  a  low 
monotonous  cliiint  >an^,  whilst  he  danced,  as  follows: 

I.cln  k  \v  a  KniTiTrs"1, 

M  nan. i  -i-i  «-.\  k»n<l;i  : 

Tu  kaiuli'  tainli'  l'.ii'_'tTi->e. 

Whirh  translated  is — 

I'o-clay  ilu-  I  jii;li>liiitiiii  i*  tlcail, 
\Vli<>  ha>  ililViTi'iit  liair  Ir^in  oiir>  : 
('mill'  r"iiii'l  t"  <!•!•  tlir  l-.ir.'li-hiiian. 

TTis  task  over,  tlu-  mourner  and  hi-  .-<>n,  who  accoinpanittl  him 
in  the  rcremonv,  retin-d  with  a  -nital>lc  present  «('  head-. 

Thi'  emaciated  remains  of  the1  ditvascd  travelli-r  were  -nun 
afterwards  taken  to  the  place  prepared.  Over  the  head-  <•(' 
Farijala  and  ('arras — Su-i,  ( 'hnma,  and  Muanva>i-re  held  a 
thick  Manket  a.-  a  kind  of  -civcn,  under  wiiieli  the  men  per- 
formed their  dntie-.  Toiike  and  .lohu  \\  ainwri<;l»t  were  pre-ent. 
.lacoli  NVainwrijxht  had  lieeii  a.-ked  to  lirin^-  hi-  jiraver  liook 
with  him,  and  stood  apart  an-aiii.-t  the  wall  of  the  enclo-nre. 

In  rejidiiiLT  about  the  linp-rini;  suH'erin^s  ot'  1  »r.  IJ\ -in^-tone 
a-  de-cril)ed  liy  himself,  and  .-uli-e<|iiriitlv  l>\-  the-e  t'aitlifnl 
felUws.  one  is  ipiite  prepared  to  understand  their  explanation, 
and  to  -ee  whv  it  was  po-.-il)!e  t"  deti'r  the<e  operation-  -o  ]><\\^ 
alter  death  :  they  sav  that  hi-  trame  wa-  little  more  than  -uln 
and  hone.  1  hrou^h  an  inci-am  rarefullv  maile,  the  vi-eefi 
were  removed,  and  a  ipiantitv  of  -alt  \va-  placed  in  tin  trunk. 
All  noticed  one  very  . -i^nilicant  circum-tanci-  in  the  aut»p-v. 
A  clot  of  coagulated  Mood,  as  larje  a^-  a  iiian'-  han-!.  lav  in  ihe 
left  side;  whil-t  Farijala  pointctl  to  the  ,-tate  of  the  lui!.:>, 


tyto  THE    I'REPAKATIOX    OF    THE    IIOI>Y. 

which  thev  de>eril>e  a-  dried  up,  and  covered  with  black  and 
white  patche>. 

The  In-art,  with  the  other  parts  removed,  were  placed  in  a  tin 
ho\,  whi<-h  li:i«l  formerly  contained  flour,  and  deei'iitly  and 
reverentlv  l>nri>-d  in  a  hole  dn^  H>ine  four  ii-rt  deep  on  tin-  .-pot 

where   th-  \    -t 1.      .laeoh  wa.-    tln-n   a-ked    t«>   read    tin-   burial 

.-••rvice.  \\hich  In-  did  in  tin-  pre-eiice  of  all.  The  Imdv  wa.-  left 
ID  !»«•  fullv  i- \po-i-d  in  tin-  -un.  N't  I'tln-r  mean-  were  taken  ti> 
pnx  rvi  ;t,  U-vi»nd  placing  .-nine  bnuidv  in  tin1  nmuth  and 
M»ni«-  on  tin-  hair;  n«r  ran  mir  iina^ini1  fur  an  in.-tant  thai  any 
mlii-r  priN-t-*  \\.inld  Ii;i\c  IM-I-II  a\ailal»lc  rillu-r  fur  KurnjH-aiis  (»r 
nativt-,  tijiisith-rinj^  tin-  niil«-  appliances  at  ihcir  dis|x»sa].  'I  In1 
iin-n  l\«-pt  \vat'-h  dav  and  ni^lit  t<>  ><•<•  that  m»  harm  rainc  ti»  their 
r<n-ri-il  ••har-jf.  Their  hnt^  slirroiindetl  lli<-  IdiildiiiLT.  and  had 
f. .!•••«•  l».--n  ii- -d  t«>  enl<-r  it.-  ^tmii^lv-liarr.-d  d- •.-!•,  the  \vh"!i- 
<Min|>  vM'idd  havi-  tnrni-il  <nn  in  a  iii'iinent.  (  >n«-i-  a  dav  lh«' 
p't^iti'.n  «\'  [hi-  lodv  \\a-  ehan^<  d,  hut  at  n»  «'lh<  !'  tinn-  \\a-.  any 
mil-  a!!i>u,  d  to  ap|>n>aeli  it. 

N"  nmlt-tation  <i|'  aiiv  kind  t<Hik  ]>la<-r  during  tin-  t'»urii-i-n 
dav-'  f\pn-iii''-.  At  the  end  <>l'  thi-  pi-rio.!  preparati«>n>  \\vre 
iuad«-  tor  n-lraeiiii:  th«-ir  -t'-|>~.  Tin-  <-"rp-e,  Jiy  ihi-  time  t«>l--r- 
al>!\  drii-d.  \\'a>  wrapped  i'i»uiid  in  »'ime  (".ilien,  th<-  leu-  IMMIJS; 
lx  nt  in\\ard-  at  th«-  km-.--  t..  -h"rteii  the  pa<-k;i^r.  Th«-  iu-\t 
thiii'_r  wa'  t'i  plan  -unn  tiling  in  \\hi«-h  to  i-ai'rv  it.  and.  in  the 
al'-<-ni-.-  n|'  planking  or  tonl-.,  an  adininil»h'  -nl>~t  itntr  \\  a.-  liuind 
li\  -!  1 1  j>|>!i!'_r  Iroin  a  M\"iiua  tri-i-  eunuch  o|  tin-  hark  in  our 
pji-i'i'  In  li-nn  a  evlinder.  and  in  il  tin  ir  ina-tt-r  \\a-  laid.  <  K  i  r 
th:-  '-a---  a  !•!••'•«•  <•)  -:ul-«-li  •]  h  \\a.-  -e\\n.  and  tin-  \\hole  paeka^e 
\\a-  l::-h--d  -••i-iin  !  v  t--  a  pole,  -o  a-  !••  In  earrird  1'V  I  \\  o  men. 

.l.ii..!»  \\  a;  ii\\  I'i'/lit  \\a-  a-k«d  !••  rai'M-an  ni-i-np!  imi  »i\  the 
l.ir_"  M-.u!:i  !!•.•••  \\  hi'-li  -land-  li\  th.'  p!a«  •>•  \\ln-re  the  U'dy 
!•-'•'!.  -t-i!  in  j  ill--  naiii"'  i  •!'  1  >i  .  I  ,;\  iii_'-t'.;n  and  I  he  dale  i  if  lu- 
'h.  atid.  l>"f.i:-i-  ].:i\iii_',  lli.-  IIH-II  L'a\'«-  -!ri«-t  I  n  |  inn  1 1>  >n-  t" 
<  'h;l  I'!,!H,  i.,  !v,  ,.p  tip-  '_M-:I--  i-\>  ar-'d  a'.\a\  .  ••  i  a-  to  -ave  it  Iroin 
»:.•  i.;  ';  lit.-  ',\!,:i|i  aniiiii!!\  -v,<-ip  n\'i-|-  tin  rmiiilrv  and 
d'  -f  -.  inanv  ![•••-.  1',.  -id.-  tlii-.  lln\  ii'.i-|..|  rl..-.-  |..  l!n- 
•p'.t  t  •-.-  • .  li:/li  ihi'-l.  |>'.-:-,  v.  ith  an  i-«|tialU  -lr<  .n-j  i  r..--  pui-f, 
!;l.<-  a  liti1.!  and  door  p.. -I-  in  form,  \\lii.li  tli.\  |.ain!«-d  lli'-r- 
onjiii-.  v. ''h  »!..•  !.u  t!,:  :  v..i-  int.-nd«-d  for  th.  li..at;  thi--i^n 


RETURN    HOfTK.  I'*",; 

tliev  think  will  remain  lor  a  long  time  from  the  solidity  of  tin 
timlx  r.  Helbre  parting  with  (,'hiUlinbo,  they  gave  him  a  larr/- 
tin  bi*'uit-lx>x  ami  some  m-wspajK-r-,  whii-h  would  si-rve  :i> 
evidence  to  all  future  travellers  that  a  u  hit--  man  had  been  ai 
his  village. 

The  chief  promised  to  do  all  he  could  to  keep  both  the  tree 
and  the  timher  ngn-po-ts  from  l>eing  touched,  hut  added,  that 
he  hoped  tin'  Knglish  would  not  l>e  long  in  coming  to  -<•«•  him, 
because  there  wa-  always  the  ri.-k  of  an  invasion  of  Ma/itu, 
when  he  woidd  have  to  fly,  and  the  tree  might  be  cut  do\\u  for 
a  ennoe  hy  some  one,  and  then  all  trace  would  lie  lo-t.  All  v-  i- 
no\v  ready  for  starting,  and  the  homeward  march  \\:i-  ln-^un. 
Hut  the  tii>t  dav's  journey  showed  them  that  -ome  additional 
prec-autions  were  necissary  to  enable  the  bearer-  of  the  mournful 
burden  to  keep  to  their  ta>k,  and  thev  .-cut  back  to  Chitamho's 
for  the  cask  of  tar  they  had  deposited  with  him,  and  ^ave  a 
thick  coating  to  the  canvas  outside.  This  answered  all  pur- 
poses; they  left  the  remainder  at  the  next  village,  \sith  order- 
to  send  it  back  to  head-quart  el's,  and  then  continued  their 
course  through  Ilala,  led  bv  their  guides  in  the  direction  of  the 
Ltiapula. 

A  moment's  inspection  of  the  map  will  explain  the  line  of 
v'ountrv  to  In1  traversed.  Su>i  and  (  huma  had  travelled  with 
Or.  Livingstone  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  northwe.-t  -li'in-  of 
Hungweolo  in  previous  year>.  The  la-t  fatal  road  from  tin- 
north  mii:lit  be  -truck  bv  a  march  in  a  due  northeaM  din-ction. 
if  thev  could  but  hold  out  -o  far  without  an  v  -erion-  mi-'oriuii'-  : 
but  in  order  to  do  this  thev  must  fir.-t  strike  northward- .-o  a-  to 
reach  the  Luapnla,  and  then  en..— in::  it  at  -ome  pan  not  neco- 
sirilv  far  from  it.-  exit  from  the  lake,  tin  v  o>u!d  at  on<  e  la\- 
their  coiir-e  for  the  south  end  of  Tanganyika. 

There  were,  however,  -erioii-  indic-atioiis  ai:i"ii_-t  i!nm. 
First  one  and  then  the  other  dropped  out  of  the  ji!,  .  and  1>\  the 
time  thev  reached  a  town  beloiiLiinu  to  (  'hitambo'>  bro'.iier — and 
on  the  third  dav  oiilv  -inee  thev  M  t  out  —  hall  tin  ir  numlxT 
were  fior*  »/»'  >;mJi<it.  It  was  impos.-ihlc  titg-imj.  A  ll-w  h^urs 
more  and  all  -eenied  atlected.  The  -vmptom-  wej-i-  inti  n-e  pain 
in  the  limb-  and  face,  jjivat  prostnition.  and.  in  the  bad  e.i-.>>, 
inabilitv  to  move.  The  nun  attributed  it  to  ih--  contiuuai 


f>58  THK    LUAPrLA. 

wading  through  water  before  the  d<x-tor's  death.  They  think 
that  illnc.-v-  hail  Uvii  waiting  for  >ome  further  slight  provoca- 
tion, and  that  the  previous  dav'-  tramp,  which  wa»  almo-t 
entirely  through  jtht-hy  llougus  or  swamp-,  turned  the  st-ile 
a-rain-t  them. 

Su-i  wa-  -uH'ering  vcrv  much.  The  di-ea>e  settled  in  on« 
!e«_',  and  then  uuickly  Khilt*1*!  to  the  other.  Smgolo  nearly  died. 
Kaniki  and  llahati,  two  of  the  women,  expired  in  a  tew  da\s, 
and  all  looked  at  its  wor-t.  It  took  them  a  good  month  to 
rallv  -iillieieiitlv  to  roiiine  their  journey. 

|-'ortunatelv  in  thi-  interval  the  rain-  entirely  <va-cd,  and  the 
native*  dav  bv  dav  brought  an  abundance1  of  food  to  the  sick 
men.  1-Voin  them  they  heard  that  the  di-triet-  they  were  now 
in  were  notoriously  nnhealthv,  and  that  many  an  Aral)  had 
fallen  out  from  the  earavan  march  to  leave  hi-  IK  mo  in  these 
wa-te-.  (  )ne  dav  live  of  the  partv  made  an  e\ctir-ion  to  the 
\\e-tuard,  and  on  their  return  reported  a  lar<_'e  deep  river  tlow- 
niLr  into  the  Luapula  on  the  left  hank.  I  nfortnnatelv  no 
notice  wa-  taken  of'  it-  name,  for  it  would  IM-  of'  considerable 
g'-ographical  interest. 

At  la-t  thev  were  readv  to  -tart  a_rain.  and  came  to  one  of  the 
Itorder  village-  in  Ilala  the  -aim-  ni^lit.  Knt  the  next  dav  -everal 
(i-ll  ill  for  the  -eeond  time,  Sn-i  iM-int:  'piite  nnaMe  to  move. 

Mnanama/iii.gn,  at  who-e  place  the-e  relapses  (K-enrri-*!,  wa-« 
t'nllv  a\\ai'e  of  everything  that  had  taken  place  at  ( 'hitamlio'-, 
md  -ho\\ed  the  men  1 1  ie  'jTe.a t e- 1  kindiie— .  Not  adav  pa--ed 
without  hi-  liriir_'in'_r  them  -oine  pn-ent  or  other,  luit  thep-  \va- 
a  Lrrear  di-inelinat ion  amon^-t  the  people  to  li-ten  to  an\'  iletail- 
eoinie.'fi-d  with  1  *r.  Living-tone'-  death.  Some  return  for  their 
kiiidii---  \\a-  made  1>\-  l-'arijala  -hootini;  three  Imtlaloe^  near  the 
town:  meat  and  'jood-uill  <j»  together  all  over  \frii-a.  and  the 
hl»  ral  -port-man  ~eop-~  point-  a?  manv  a  turn.  A  eo\v  \\a-. 
p'lpha-d  h'-re  for  -ome  lira--  l-raeclef-  ainl  ealico.  and  on  the 

tU'iiSi-tli    ila\    all   wej-e    -ntlieii-nllv   -froii"    on  their  le '-  to  im-h 

I 


t,,.     ,  ,M.r    ,„ ,. ,  ,     p.,-      jia|>na  -oon  earni» 

em-elvi--      lind'f      a      '/Hide,    the\       \\i-re     eo||- 

of    (  'hi-aiama!ama.   \\lio  \\illinjK1  otleriHl 
--a_'e  acj-«»--  the  m  \t   dav. 


CUOSrilNG    THK    I.UAITl.A.  C.V.J 

Tin-  report  tluit  the  men  give  of  this  mighty  rivi-r  make-  u-> 
instinctively  Ix-ml  our  eves  on  the  dark  burden  hud  in  the 
ea.ii>e.  Hmv  ardently  would  lit-  ha\(  -.-anned  it  \sho-e  Uxlv 
thus  parses  across  these  water.-,  and  who-e  spirit,  in  it.-  la-t 
hours'  .sojourn  in  this  world,  wandered  in  thought  and  imagina- 
tion to  its  .stream  ! 

It  \\oiild  seem  that  the  Luapula  at  this  point  is  double  tin- 
width  of  the  /amlx-si  at  Slmjnillga.  Tin-  <jive-  a  breadth  of 
t'lllly  t'olir  miles.  A  man  eoiild  not  l»e  seen  "II  the  oppo-ite 
hank  :  trees  looked  small  :  a  !_run  eon  hi  he  heard,  hut  no  shout- 
ing would  ever  reach  a  pcr.-ou  across  the  ri v«-r- -.-ii'-h  i-  the 
de-cription  given  hy  men  who  were  well  aide  to  compare  the 
Luaptila  with  the  /amhcsj.  Taking  to  the  eaiio< .-,  thev  \\cre 
alu'e  to  use  the-  "  m'phondo,"  or  punting  pole,  \»r  a- di-tanct- 
through  reeds,  then  came  clear  deep  water  lor  some  four  hun- 
dred yards,  a^ain  a  broad  rccdv  expanse,  followed  l>v  another 
deep  part,  succeeded  in  turn  l»v  another  current  not  so  hroad  as 
those  previously  paddletl  aero.-.-,  and  then,  a-  on  the  starting 
side,  gradually  shoalinu;  water,  abounding  in  rei-d-.  Two 
islands  lav  }[\<i  above  the  crossing-place.  I'.-inu  pole  and  |iad- 
dle  alternately,  the  passage  took  them  i'ullv  t\\n  hour.-  across 
this  enormous  torrent,  which  carries  oil'  the  \\  ater.-  of  Ban^weolo 
towards  the  north. 

A  <ad  mishap  befell  the  doiikcv  the  first  ni-ht  of  camping 
bevond  the  I.uapula.  and  thi-  faithful  and  sorely-lri»tl  servant 
was  doomed  to  end  his  career  at  this  -pot. 

According  to  cn-tom,  a  special  -table  \\u-  built  for  him  closo 
to  the  men.  In  the  middle  ot'  the  ni-lit  a_;nat  di-turbance, 
coupled  \\ith  the  shouting  of  Amoda.  aroii-ed  (he  camp.  1  he 
men  rn-hed  out  and  found  the  -table  broken  do\\  n  and  the 
donkev  LTone.  Snatching  -onie  lo^s.  tln-v  .-••!  tire  to  the;jras-, 
as  it  ua-  pitch  <lark,  and  b\  the  li^ht  saw  a  lion  elo-e  to  the 
body  of  the  poor  animal,  which  \\.-i-  tjiiiic  dead.  1  l.-i-e  who 
had  caught  up  their  ^un-  on  the  tir-t  alarm  tire.l  a  volley,  and 
the  lion  made  otV.  It  wa-  evident  that  the  donke\  had  b--eu 
sei/ed  bv  theno-eand  in-tant  1  v  killed.  At  da\li_rh;  t  lie  -j ,.  >.  -r 
showed  that  the  ur'in-  had  taken  etll-ct.  The  lion'-  1>!<>"<1  lay  in 
a  broad  track  :  for  he  was  apparently  injured  in  the  bark,  and 
Muld  onlv  drair  himself  alon^1  ;  but  the  ti.otprint-  of  a  .-ecoml 


GGU  FATK   »>F    AN    OLD    *KKVANT. 

lion  were  too  plain  to  make  it  advisable  to  track  him  far  in  the 
thick  cover  he  had  reached,  and  x>  the  search  wa-  abandoned. 
The  Ixxlv  of  tlic  donkey  was  left  In-hind,  hut  two  <~anoe>  re- 
mained near  the  village,  and  it  is  most  probable  that  it  went  to 
make  a  fea-t  at  ( 'hi>alama!ama'.-. 

Tra.eilin.:  tlirou^h  ince--ant  -wamp  and  water,  they  were 
fain  to  make  their  m-xt  stopping-place  in  a  .-pot  where  an  enor- 
mou-  ant-hill  .-pread  it-elf  out— a  -mall  island  in  the  waters. 
A  lire  \va>  lit,  and  bv  employing  hot--,  nio-t  of  them  dn^r  -oine- 
thing  like  a  Jbrm  to  -leep  in  on  the  hard  earth.  Thankful  to 
leave  Mich  a  place,  thev  pa--i-d  Kawin^u  and  came  to  N 'Kos.MiV. 
The  people  were  called  Kaweiide;  they  formerly  owned  many 

ealile.    but    Wel'c     I|oW      reilllced.        TlleV     had     l>'-e|)     put     Illlder    the 

harrow  bv  the  NVanyamwe/i,  and  then-  were  \cr\  lew  herds 
remaining.  A  piv-ent  \va^  made  of  a  cow  ;  but  il  >< ciu-  that 
the  rule,  "  lir-t  cat<-h  voiir  hare,"  \\a~  in  full  force  in  N'Ko-Mi's 
jia-turc- :  the  few  animaU  were  exc-eetlin^;  \\ild.  and  a  hunt  \\a> 
.-el  ..a  jl..it  t.i  obtain  the  pre-eiit.  In  \l\\~  limit  one  nl'i.iir  |iartv 
unfortunately  -hoi  a  villager,  and  broke  the  p«.nr  fellow'>  thi^h. 
Although  it  \\a~  clearly  an  ae,-i  1,  nt,  -uch  thiir_r-  <1»  not  readily 
M-ttle  thein>elyeM  down  on  -iich  an  :Lx»umption  in  Africa.  The 
chief,  hout-ver,  behaved  well.  He  told  the  ini'ii  that  a  line 
woiiM  have  to  be  paid  on  the  return  ot  tin-  U'oiinded  man's 
lather,  and  it  had  better  be  banded  to  him;  for  by  t!,.  law  the 
blame  would  tali  on  him  a-  \\i<-  entertainer  <>t  the  man  \\lio  had 
br"ii_rli!  about  the  injury.  He  admitted  that  he  had  orderetl  all 
hi-  |H.ij.!e  to  -land  elcar  oi'the  -p->t  \\hcre  the  di-a-ter  iM-eiirred, 
but  le-  -upjKt-^il  that  in  tin-  in-taiiee  hi-  ordei>  had  n»\  been 
heai'd.  Th«-v  had  ii'>t  -ullieienf  ^,  H..!-  in  an\  <-a-i-  t<>  re- pond  to 
the  demand  ;  and  tin  •!'••  w  a-  onl\  ..ne  tliinj  lel't  the  le^r  inn-t  be 

a 


-am  )•  •    '  • 

l'\i  -t  i.f  all    a    h"!e  wa-    du_'.  -av  tu"    Jeet    de.  p    and    t"tir    in 
len/'ii,  .n   -ii'-!i  ;i  manner    that    'h--    patient    cutild    -:t    in   il   v\it!i 
•  :-.'•      liii  i.       A     !.u_"    leaf   \\:i-  th-  n   b..iind   r.'iind 

patient 
over    the 

,    n'-   !•  •_•-   \\  it  li   a   t  biel.    !a\  .  i    .  if'  mud  ; 
ick«  and    _ria--   \\>r>-    i-oileeted,  and  a   !ir>     lit   on 


N ATI vi-:  >ri:«,Kitv.  <;oi 

top  just  over  the  fracture.  To  prevent  the  .smoke  smothering 
tilt;  sutlerer,  they  held  a  broad  mat  :LS  a  >creen  before  \n->  fa<  « , 
And  the  o|>eration  went  oil.  Alter  some  time  tlii-  licat  rca<-h«-tl 
the  limbs  under-ground.  Ik-Mowing  with  feiiratul  covered  with 
jH'rspiration,  the  man  imploml  them  to  Id  him  <>ut.  \\  l.«-n  tii  • 
authorities  concluded  he  had  been  under  treatment  a  stilli'  i'-iit 
time,  they  <|iiieklv  hurrowttl  down  and  lifted  him  <>ut.  11'-  \\.i-t 
now  held  perl'eetlv  fa>t,  whilst  two  -trong  men  stretched  thi- 
wounded  liml>  with  all  their  might.  Splint.-  duly  prepared 
were  afterwards  hound  around  it  ;  but  we  are  left  to  hope  onlv 
that  the  poor  man  was  rc.-torcd  the  use  of  hi.-  limb.  The  vil- 
lagers told  Cliuma  that  alter  the  \Vanyam\ve/i  eni,rau'-ment> 
they  constantly  treated  the  had  gunshot  wounds  in  thi.-,  way 
with  perfect  success. 

Leaving  this  village,  the  men  made  for  the  territory  of  the 
Wa  lTssi.  Here  thev  met  with  a  surlv  welcome,  and  were  told 
that  thev  must  pass  on.  There  is  no  douht  that  the  intelligenei1 
that  thev  were  carrying  their  master  had  something  to  do  with 
it,  for  the  news  seemed  to  spread  with  the  greatest  rapiditv  in 
every  direction. 

Thev  were  now  approaching  ('hawende's  town,  parallel  to 
the  north  shore  of  the  lake,  and  at  no  great  distance  from  it,  on 
the  hank  of  the  Liposhosi  river. 

Approaching  Chaweude's,  according  to  native  eiiijii'-tte, 
Amoda  and  Sahouri  went  on  in  front  to  inform  the  chief  and 
a>k  leave  to  enter  the  town.  As  thev  did  not  come  hack, 
Muanyasere  and  C'huma  set  oil'  alter  thi-m  to  a-eertain  the 
reason  of  the  dclav.  No  better  >ucce>s  >eemed  toattt-nd  thi- 
second  venture,  so  shouldering  their  burden-,  all  went  forward 
in  the  track  of'  the  four  messenger-. 

In  the  mean  time,  ( 'hiuua  and  Muanva-erc  nii-t  Amoda  and 
Sahouri  coming  back  toward-  tln-m  with  five  men.  Tliev 
reported  that  lln-v  had  entered  the  town,  but  li-nnd  it  a  verv 
hll'ue  -toekaded  place;  tnoivover,  two  otlp-r  villa-^---  of  eiiltal 
si/e  were  clo-e  to  it.  Much  poinhe-dri liking  wa-  ^oin-j;  on. 
On  approaching  the  chief'.  Amoda  had  re-ted  hi-  uiin  a^ain-t 
the  ]>nncipal  lint  innocently  enough,  ('hawende's  ->:i.  -Inink 
and  (juarrcl-ome,  made  this  a  caii-e  of  ofl'.-in-e.  and  -na. 
up,  hi1  insolentlv  a.-ki-d  them  huw  th.v  dar-d  to  do  -:i.-h  a 


Gt'.'J  "AN    UNFOUTTNATK    AFFAIR. 


g.  (  'hawende  interfered,  ami  for  the  moment  prevented 
further  dillicultv  ;  in  fact,  lie  himself  seems  to  have  been  in- 
clined to  i_rrant  the  J'avor  which  W;L-  a.-kcd  :  however,  then-  \v:w 
danger  brewing,  an<l  the  men  retired. 

\\"hi-n  tin-  main  UHJV  met  them  returning,  tint!  with  their 
fruitle--  errand,  a  consultation  took  placv.  Wood  tin-re  w:vs 
iii'iH-.  1"  -eatti  T  about  a  no!  find  materials  with  which  to  build 
bhdter  for  the  night,  would  only  otler  a  great  temptation  to 
the-e  drunken  excited  people  to  plunder  the  baggage.  It  was 
n-olved  to  make  lor  the  town. 

\\iitn  tin  v  reached  the  gate  of  the  stockade  thev  were  flatlv 
jvfu-ed  admittance,  iho-e  in-ide  telliiiL:  them  to  ^o  down  to 
tin-  river  and  camp  on  the  bank.  Thev  replied  that  thU  wa> 
inijKi-—  ible  :  that  iii<\  were  tire<l.  it  \\'.i>  verv  late,  and  nothing 
ioiild  be  'Iniinl  there  t"  '_r:vc  them  .-helter.  Meeting  with  no 
ditlerenl  an-\\er,  Sati-ne  >ai<l.  "\\liv  -land  talking  to  them'.' 
let  it-  Lr|'i  in  ~»uie!iow  or  othi  r  ;  "  and,  .-niting  the  action  to  the 
v.ord,  the\-  jui-hed  the  men  back  who  MO.K!  in  the  jjateuav. 
Saline  -jot  through,  and  Muanvax-re  climbed  over  the  top  of 
the  -to<-Lide,  tltiloweil  b\  ('hnma.  who  in-tamlv  upciied  the 
•^:ite  \\ide  and  let  hi-  co;:ip  mioii-  through.  Hostilities  nii'jht 
.-till  hi\e  lieen  averted  had  better  coim-el  prevailed. 

The  in,  i,  (H.-IHI  to  look  aboiit  tor  hut-  in  which  to  d,  po>it 
tl.eir  !liin_r-,  \\heii  the  -anie  drunken  fellow  drew  a  bow  and 
fired  at  Muanva-ere.  The  man  called  out  to  the  other-  to 
-ei/c  1  1  :  MI.  u  liieh  u  a-  d.  IIP-  m  an  m-tant.  A  loud  er\  now  burst 
!'"!•;  h  that  tiie  i-hiel"-  -on  wa-  in  daiiLrcr.  and  one  of'  the  people, 
h;!!liir_r  a  -pear,  uoimd'd  Saboiiri  -!ii:litK'  in  the  tln^h:  tln- 
\\  i-  til.  -ijnal  l'n|-  a  general  ^crimma^e. 

(  'hauende'-  m.  u  fled  from  the  town;  the  drum-  beat  tin1 
a--eini>!v  in  ail  direction-,  and  an  mni'-n-e  number  tloeked  t" 
the  -j,,,|  tV.  .m  the  t  \\  o  ii.-i_'liboi  in_'  villa  lie-,  armed  \\ith  their 
(••••A-,  ar:ou-,  ami  -pi-ar-.  An  a->-anlt  in-tantlv  bewail  from  the 
>'i!  -  .•  i'  .  N  'ehi-e  u  a-  -h"!  u  it  1  1  an  arp<\\  in  the  -h.MiM.  r  I  hroii^h 
the  jitii-  i,|.-.  :md  N'taru  in  t!ie  finder.  I  lun_r-  \\e|-,  bi-comtng 
•  \<  j  ••  n'-  '•  >i  I  he  eara  van.  -o,  put  t  in_p  the  Ix  ><\\  »\  \>r.  1  ,1  vmg- 
r'"iie  a:i'!  ail  flu  :  r  _"».d-  ;md  ehatte!-  in  one  hut,  tie  im-ii  eiiai'^e.] 
'.'it  of  tli.  to-,sn,  and  tir-d  "ii  the  a--ailant-.  killing  t  \\  •  •  and 
«•••!!:  lin  -J  -•  \  •  i  a!  ••'!.•  r-.  l''eann_r  that  t  h«  -v  \\  otild  old  v  i_r-'i'  h'T 


* 
END   OF   TUB    FKiHT.  r,r..'J 

together  in  the  other  remaining  villages  and  renew  tin1  attack 
at  night,  the  men  curried  these  quicklv  one  l»v  one  and  -ub-c- 
rjuently  hurnt  six  others  which  were  luiilt  on  the  .-aim  ,-ide  of 
the  river,  then  crossing  over,  they  tir»-d  on  the  canoe-  which 
were  speeding  towanls  the  deep  water  of  Bangweolo,  through  the 
channel  of  the  Liposhosi,  with  disastrous  roults  to  the  fugitive 

people. 

Returning  to  the  town,  all  was  made  safe  for  the  night.  I'v 
the  fortunes  of  war,  sheep,  goats,  fowls,  and  an  immcn-e  quantity 
of  food  fell  into  their  hands  ;  and  thev  remaine<l  li»r  a  week  to 
recruit.  Onee  or  twice  thev  found  men  approaching  at  night 
to  throw  fire  on  the  roofs  of  the  huts  from  out-ide,  hut  with  this 
exception  they  were  not  interfered  with.  ( )n  the  la-t  dav  hut 
one  a  man  approached  and  called  to  them  at  the  top  of  hi-  voice 
not  to  set  fini  to  the  chief's  town  (it  was  his  that  thev  occupied); 
for  the  had  son  had  brought  all  this  upon  them  ;  he  added  that 
the  old  man  had  been  overruled,  and  thev  were  sorrv  enough 
for  his  bad  conduct. 

With  the  account  given  of  this  occurrence  before  us  we  cannot 
but  lament  the  loss  of  life  and  the  whole  circum.-tances  of  the 
fight.  Whilst  on  the  one  hand  we  may  imagine  that  the  ]i»-s 
of  a  cool,  conciliatory,  brave  leader  was  here  felt  in  a  grave  de- 
gree, we  must  also  see  that  it  was  known  far  and  wide  that  thi- 
very  loss  was  now  a  great  weakness  to  his  followers.  There  i- 
no  surer  signs  of  mi-chief  in  Africa  than  the-e  trumperv  charge- 
of  bewitching  houses  hv  placing  tiling-  on  them:  -nine  -iieh 
overstrained  accusation  is  generally  -et  in  the  front  rank  \\hen 
other  difficulties  are  to  come  :  drunkenness  is  pretty  much  the 
same  thing  in  all  parts  of' the  world,  and  gathers  mi-erv  around 
it  as  ea.-ilv  in  an  African  village  as  in  an  Km:li-h  ciiv.  Had 
the  cortege  submitted  to  extortion  and  in-uh.  thev  fi'lt  that  their 
night  bv  the  river  would  have  been  a  precarious  i.ne — even  it' 
thev  had  been  in  a  humor  to  -lecp  in  a  -wamp  \shen  a  t<>'.vn  wa* 
at  hand.  These  things  gave  occasion  t<>  them  to  re.-"rt  to  turee. 
The  desperate  nature  of  their  whole  entcrpri-e  in  -taniui:  lor 
Zan/ibar  perhaps  had  accumulated  it<  own  -t-iek  of'  determina- 
tion, and  now  it  found  vent  under  evil  provocation.  It'  there 
i-  room  for  anv  other  fecliiiLT  than  regret,  it  lie-  in  the  !•!<•(  that. 
c>n  mature  consideration  and  in  M>ber  moment-,  the  people  who 
sutVered  east  the  real  blame  on  the  riuht  shoulders. 


«»lUF.-*n<>N    TO    FLAGS. 

For  the  next  thnv  d  iv-  utter  leaving  Chawewle's  they  were 
still  in  the  satin-  inundated  fringe  of  Inmga  which  surrounds  the 
Ink--,  an«l  on  each  oet-.ision  had  to  camp  at  nightfall  wherever  a 
r«-tin-.;-plaee  could  IK-  found  ill  the  jungle,  reaching  Chama's 
villas-  "!i  til--  fourth  day.  A  delay  of  forty-eight  hour-  was 
ne<-»— arv,  a-  Su-i'-  wife  1<TI  ill  ;  and  for  tin-  m-xt  few  marches 
-lie  \\a-  carried  in  a  kitanda.  They  met  an  I  "nyamwcsi  man 
h "iv,  who  had  come  from  Knmliakumha'-  town  in  tin-  N\  a  l*--i 
di-triet.  Ht-  related  to  them  how  on  two  invasions  the  Wan- 
••ainwc-i  li.ul  tried  to  earrv  ( 'hawende's  town  l>y  a--anli',  Imt  had 
IM-.-IJ  ivpiil-ed  l»oth  time-.  Hut  with  the  strong  fitting  these 
invadcr<  have  in  the  eoimtrv,  arm<-d  a<  thev  are  with  tlr-  inueh- 
di-'-ade^l  ^HII-,  it  can  onlv  l>e  a  matter  of  time  hefore  th"  whole 
ru!",  -tie!i  a~  it  i-,  pa— -e<  into  then1  hands, 

A  i'e\\-  ilav-  liroti_rht  them  near  to  <  'Imvaie's  town,  whiiiJi  they 
de-eriiie  a~  a  verv  .-troii1.;  place,  lortified  with  a  st(Hmka«li'  and 
diteh.  Shortlv  liet'U-e  reaching  it,  -onn-  villager-  trie.]  t<>  pick  a 
quarrel  \\ith  them  tor  rarrviii1.;  fla'4-.  1 1  wa-  their  invartaiih- 
•  •n-toin  to  make  tin-  dnunmer-liov,  Majwara.  mareh  at  t.'n-ir 
head,  \vhil-t  the  I'ni. in  .laek  and  the  red  color-  1(f  Xan/iKar  \scre 
carried  in  a  l'»remo-t  place  in  the  line.  Kortnnutclv  a  chief  of' 
-ome  importance  came  up  and  stopped  the  tli^cu— ion,  or  tin-re 
nn'ifht  have  l>een  moiv  mischief,  (or  the  men  \\-eiv  in  ii"  temper 
to  |n\ver  their  Mat:,  knowing  their  own  -tremrth  |nvttv  well  l>y 
tin-  time.  Making  their  settlement  elo-e  to  ('hiwaie'-.  thev 
met  \\ith  much  kindness,  and  were  vi-ited  l>v  ero\\-il-  of  the 
inhabitants. 

Three  dav-'  journey  hroii-jht  them  to  ( 'hiwaic'~  uiielr'-  villaLr'.' ; 
-!'••  |-in_r  two  ni'/ht-  in  the  jungle  thev  made  (  'hun^u'<,  and  in 
anoth-r  dav'-  march  found  t hem-eK .--,  (.1  their  ^r>-.i\  delight,  at 
Kri|M-ha'-. 

Tle-v  -aw  at  thi-  place  a  lar^e  <|uanti?v  nf  iron  and  copper 
n;!--  lr-in_'  made  |.\-  a  partv  «\'  \\"anvamwi-i.  The  pn.c.-.-  i- 
((••-"•r-it-  d  a-  tolloNV-  :  A  heavv  pie.-.'  ,,)'  ir,,n,  wirh  a  luniie!  -haped 
lio!i-  in  it,  i-  firmlv  fi\e.  1  in  the  1'ork  of  a  free.  \  tin.'  ro.  1  i- 
th-'ii  thru-?  in?. i  if,  and  a  line  attached  to  the  fir-t  I'ew  in. •!!•••• 
\vhfh  can  l»-  c..:i\,-,|  ihroij^h.  A  nnml"-r  of  men  haul  on  tin- 
liti'-.  -iir/:n/  and  daii'-inj-  in  tune,  and  '1m-  it  i-  dra'.ui  through 
the  (ir-t  dri!!  ;  it  i-  -uli--«juentlv  pa—  d  through  «'th«  r-  t<>  render 


Tin: 


it  still  finer,  and  excellent  wire  is  tin-  result.  Fx'aviri^  Kajn-ha, 
they  went  through  many  of  tin-  villages  already  cnumeratitl  m 
1  >r.  Livingstone's  «liarv.  (  'hama'*  |»eop!e  eume  to  .-ee  them 
as  they  pa>sed  I  »v  him,  and  afler  MMIIC  muttering*  and  growling 
(  'asongo  ijavc  them  leave  to  liny  li>od  :it  hi-;  town.  ({caching 
('haiua's  head-quarters  thcv  camped  out.-idc,  and  received  a  civil 
nie^sa^e,  tolling  them  to  convev  his  orders  to  the  jM-oph-  on  the 
blinks  of  the  Kalongosi  that  the  travellers  tnn-t  In-  ferried  safelv 
across.  Thcv  found  threat  fear  and  rni-crv  prevailing  in  th«* 
neighborhood  from  the  constant  niids  made  l»v  Kumhaktimha^ 
men. 

Lcavini;  the  Fv'Jongosi  hehind  them  tliev  made  for  M'.-ama'-i 
son's  town,  meeting  lour  men  on  the  wav  \vlio  were  ^oin^  from 
Ktimliaknmha  to  (  'hama  to  licat  up  reernif-  |i»r  an  attaek  on 
the  Katanga  people.  The  riMjnest  \\a>  >ure  to  Ke  met  with 
alarm  and  refusal,  lint  it  served  verv  well  to  act  the  part  tak«  n 
I  iv  the  wolf  in  the  fable.  A  trrievancc  would  immediatelv  !>c 
made  ot'  it,  and  (  'hama  "  eaten  up  "  in  due  course  (i>r  daring  to 
gainsay  the  stronger  man.  Such  i<  too  frecjnentlv  the  com>c  «•{' 
native1  oppression.  At  la-t  Kumbakumba's  town  came  in  ~n:lit. 
Alrcadv  the  lai'Lre  district  of  Itawa  had  tacitlv  allowed  it>df  to 
be  put  under  the  harrow  bv  thi-  rntlianly  Xan/ibar  Arali. 
Black-mail  is  levied  in  all  directions,  and  the  pettv  chiet'-, 
althoiiirh  real  I  v  under  tribute  to  Nsama,  are  sapieioiis  enou«jh 
to  keep  in  with  the  powers  that  be. 

The  talk  was  still  about  the  break-up  of  ('a.-embe'-;  po\\vr  : 
but  bv  I'ar  the  most  interestinir  news  that  reached  them  wa-  that 
a  partv  of  Knulislnnen,  headed  bv  I)r.  Living-tone'-  -on.  on 
their  wav  to  relieve  his  lather,  had  been  seen  at  Ita^amoio  -om-- 
month-  previoiislv. 

The  chief  -howcd  them  everv  kimbie--  during  their  five  .lav-' 
re<t.  and  \\a-  nio-t  anxious  that  no  mishap  should  bv  an\  ehanc.- 
occur  to  their  principal  charge. 

Marching  \\'a<  now  much  ea-icr.  and  the  men  ipneklv  f.--i!id 
thcv  had  cro—  ed  the  watcr-hed.  The  Lot'u  ran  in  front  of  them 
on  it<  wav  to  Tan^anvika.  The  Kalon^-o-i,  \\r  have  -een,  flows 
t»  Lake  Moero  in  the  opposite  dire»-tion.  More  t->  th'  ;r  p'.i''- 
posr  it  was  perhaps  to  fmd  the  terror  ot'  Kumhakumba  dvin^ 
awav  as  thev  tnivellevl  in  a  northe:isterly  direction,  and  c;in..' 


»>»><>  IN    THK    01. I>    PATH. 

amongst  the  Mwambi.  As  yet  no  invasion  had  taken  place. 
A  voting  chief,  Chnngn,  did  all  lie  could  for  them;  for,  when 
the  doctor  explored  these  regions  Ix'fon*,  Cliungu  had  Ut-n  much 
imprc-.-ed  with  him,  and  now,  throwing  oil' all  the  native  super- 
stition, he  looked  on  the  arrival  of  thy  dead  Ixnly  :is  a  cause  of 
real  .-orn>w. 

A-oiimani  had  sonic  luck  in  hunting,  and  a  fine  butValo  was 
killed  near  the  town.  According  to  native  game-laws  (which 
in  -nine  respects  are  exceedingly  strict  in  Africa),  Chnngu  had 
a  rL'ht  to  a  fotv-le.: — had  it  been  an  elephant  the  tu-k  nexi  tin1 
ground  would  have  been  hi-,  past  all  doubt — in  thi>  in-tamv, 
however,  tin-  men  -cut  in  a  plea  that  theirs  was  no  ordinary 
ca-e,  ami  that  hunger  had  law-  of  it-  own  ;  they  b'-^jed  to  be 
allowed  to  keep  the  whole  carca.— .  and  ( 'hungn  not  onlv  listened 
to  tlifir  -torv,  but  willingly  waivetl  hi-  claim  to  the  chiefs 
-hare. 

It  i-  to  be  hoped  that  thc-e  -on-  of  Tafuna,  the  head  and 
lather  of  the  Ainambwi  a  IIIIUMI,  mav  hold  their  own.  Thev 
.-eem  a  -uperior  race,  and  thi-  man  i-  de-cribed  a-  a  worthy 
lead'-r.  Hi-  brother-,  Ka.-on-o,  ( 'lntiinbwa,  Soinbe,  and  their 
-i-ter,  Mooibo,  are  all  notorioii-  for  their  reverence  for  Tafuna. 
In  tli'ir  village-  an  abundance  of  colored  home-spun  cloth 
-peak-  for  their  iudn-trv  ;  whilst  from  the  numlK-r  of  d<»^-  and 
e!.-j>haiit--p'-ar-  no  further  te-tinionv  i-  nettled  to  -how  that  the 
character  tln-y  b.-ar  a-  '_rivat  hunter-  i-  well  deserved. 

Tin-  -t.-..|(  d'-'-ent  to  the  lake  MOW  lay  In-fore  them,  and  they 
t-ini"  to  Ka-aka!awe'-.  Ilej-c  it  wa-  that  the  doctor  hail  p:i--e«l 
\\t-arv  month-  of  illii'---  mi  hi-  tir-t  approach  t"  Taniranvika  in 
pri-\'i"'i-  vear-.  The  village  contained  but  \<  w  of  it-  old  in- 
habit mt-,  but  tho-e  few  i-'-e.i \-i-il  tliiin  ho-j,itai>!\  enough  and 
i'-  lo--  of  him  \\  ho  had  been  -o  well  appreeiateil  when 
th'-v  jo'irni  ve  1  mi  dav  bv  dav  till  the  -oiithern  <  nd 
•A  a-  rounded. 

•it  HI-  •  -\  p«  -rienee  of  the  ditlicult  route  almi^  the  In  -i  jht- 
.-injanvika  mad"  th<-m  determine  t<>  ^i\'-  the  lake 
a  wid'  !.'  ;-»h  thi-  tine-,  and  I'-r  thi-  |nirpo-e  ih.-v  h.-ld  \\ell  to  t  he 
ea-lward,  pa--nrj'  a  number  o)  -mall  dc-^-rtcil  village-,  m  one  <>t 
'.-.  iii'-li  tip  \  i-ariiji'-.|  ip-ar!\'  everv  in^lit.  It  wa-  neee--arv  to  ^o 
through  t!i--  l''ipa  'ountrs,  but  they  learitftl  from  one  man  and 


NKW    STKNKK.  » 

another  that  the  chief,  Kafonfi,  was  very  anxious  that  tin-  body 
should  not   IK-   brought  near  to   his  town — indeed,  a  guide  wa- 
purposelv  thrown   in   their  way  who  led  them  pa-t  it  bv  a  eon 
siderable  detour. 

'I'h is  road  across  the  plain  seems  incomparably  the  Ix-t.  No 
difficulty  whatever  was  experienced,  and  one  cannot  but  lament 
the  toil  and  weariness  which  I  >r.  Living-tone  endim-d  whilst 
holding  a  course  e|o*e  to  Tanganyika,  although  we  mu-t  b«  ar 
in  mind  that  bv  no  other  mean-;  at  the  time  could  he  complet«> 
his  snrvev  of  this  great  inland  sea,  or  a«-i|Uaint  n-  with  it-  har- 
bors, its  bavs,  and  the  rivers  which  find  their  wav  into  it  on 
the  cast. 

The  chief'  feature  after  leaving  tin-  point  wa-  a  three  da\  •»' 
march  over  Lambalamfipa,  an  abrupt  mountain  rang'1,  which 
crosses  the  countrv  cast  and  we-t,  and  attain>,  it  would  -eem.  an 
altitude  of  some  four  thousand  feet.  Looking  down  on  the 
plain  from  its  highest  passes  a  vast  lake  appi-ar-  to  >tre[i-h  a  wav 
in  front  toward-  the  north,  but  on  descending  this  n-nl\-.-.  it-fit' 
into  a  glittering  plain,  for  the  mo-t  part  covered  with  >alin'-  in- 
erustations.  The  path  lay  directly  acn>-s  thi-.  The  ditli«-ulties 
thev  anticipated  had  no  real  existence,  flir  >mall  villages  wre 
found,  and  water  \va-  not  .-carce.  although  b:-a«-ki-h.  The  tir~t 
demand  for  toll  was  made  near  here,  but  the  head  man  ail»'.\vd 
them  to  pa-s  tor  litiirtecn  strings  of  beads.  Su-i  ~a\  -  that  this 
plain  was  literallv  swarming  with  herd-  of'  game  ot'  all  kind-: 
giratVe  and  /ebra  were  particularly  abundant,  and  lion-  revelled 
in  the  -plendid  quarters.  The  settlement.-  thev  came  to  belon_r'-d 
chiefly  to  elephant  hunter-;,  and  the  >kil!  of  Farija'a  and  Muau- 
va-ei'e  brought  plentv  of'  beet'  into  camp. 

As  they  approached  the  Likwa,  a  lon^-  -tringof  men  wa-  -Cfii 
on  the  oppn-ite  side  filiii'j;  down  to  the  water,  and  In  \\\^  uin-'-r- 
tain  of  th-'ir  intentions  precaution-  were  ijuiekly  tak--n  to  in-ure 
the  safi-tv  of'  the  ba'j^a^e.  Pividinir  tliem-el\'e-  into  time  par- 
tics,  the  fir-t  detaclimcnt  \vent  a«-ro--;  t"  m«-et  the  -tran^ir-, 
i-arrviiiiT  the  Arab  tlai;  in  trout.  Cliuma  hea«led  another  l-and 
at  a  little  di-tance  in  the  rear  ot'  the-e.  whil-t  Su-i  and  a  f»  w 
more  erniiehed  in  the  jungle,  with  the  ln..l\-  conceal'-d  in  a 
roughlv-madi1  hut.  Their  tear-,  however,  were  needle--  :  it 
turned  out  to  be  a  caravan  bound  for  Fipa  to  hunt  elephant* 
39 


•  U^  CHTMA    HKACHF>    I'NYA  N  YT.M  BK. 

i:id  hiiy  ivorv  ami  -lave>.  The  new  arrival  told  them  that 
thov  had  eome  i-traiirht  through  ['nyanyemU'  from  Baipimoio, 
on  tin-  nia-t.  aii'l  that  the  doctor's  death  had  alreailv  heim  re- 
jMirt«-d  then.-  1'V  native  ,,f  Fipa. 

With  Miii-mall  -ali-faetioM  the  men  learned  from  the  ontwanl- 
iM.innl  <-arava:i  that  th«-  previous  .-jury  wa-  a  true  one,  and  they 
\v-Te  a--uri-d  that  I  >r.  Livingstone'-  son  with  two  Kn^li-luiieu 
;md  a  i|Uaiititv  of  «jood-  had  a  I  read  v  reaehe<l  I  'nvain  cinlie. 

The  eoiiiiirv  lien-  .-!io\ve<l  all  the  npjH'nmmt' of  a  >alt-pnn  ; 
iii'lc'«l  a  fjuantitv  of  verv  i^ood  salt  \V:L-  <-olleeteil  li\-  nm-  of  tin- 
m-'M.  n  ho  thoil'jht  he  eouhl  turn  an  honeM  lnni<-h  nj' lx-a«ls  with 
it  at  1  'nvaiivnnlie. 

\VheM  th'-v  arrival  at  liaula,  Jacob  \\  ain\vri;_rht.  the  ~cril>e  of 
tin-  jiartv.  \\:i-  cornniissioiiMl  to  write  an  aeeomit  i>t'tli«-  distress- 
::e_r  <  in'iiin-taii'''^  oj'  the  «lo«-tor'-  death,  and  Chuina,  taking 
thr-'e  mi'ii  with  him.  jm--snl  on  to  d<-!iv-T  it  to  the  Kn^lish 
partv  in  per-Mii.  Th<-  ri--t  of  the  eorti-je  folio weil  them  through 
the  juti^lf  t<i  ( 'hilun«la's  villa^-. 

The  Manvani  rivi-r  wa~  ero--.i-d  on  it-  \s:iv  to  T:intr:inyika 
iM-fMp-  thev  -/ot  to  Chikoolon.  L' a\  iiiLr  tin-  villa^'-  l»ehind 
th'-m.  thi'V  advaiiffd  to  thi-  I'^umla  di~trii-t.  MOW  i-iiliil  hv 
Kaliinangomdi,  tin-  -OM  <>t  Mliereki-.  ih«-  lonin-r  i-hirt'.  :md  -••  011 
to  Ka-'-k'-ra.  \\hieh,  it  will  !><•  retnemU-re*!,  i-  not  far  from 
I  n vanv»-ni!>f. 

\\'h'-n  ( 'linma  reaehrd  the  Aral)  set tlenn-nt,  LienteiiaMl  ( 'am- 
eron  wa-  «|ii!'-klv  put  in  po--.--inM  nf  thi-  main  l'a«-t~  of'  1  >r. 
Livin-j-toiu-*-  il'-ath  liv  reading  .Ia'-'»fp'-  N'ttcr.  ami  <  'huma  wa- 
iine-tioMe»l  <•"]<< •••riling  it  in  tin-  piv-.-iii-e  -it'  I  >f.  l>i!!"ii  and 
I  ,i- iil'-nant  Mui-|ihv.  It  \\  a-  a  ili-.ipp"intni«-nt  to  find  that  tii-- 
r'j"-rt--d  arri\al  of  Mr.  O«  well  [jivin-j-fnin1  wa-  rut  in-lv  rrrone- 
'.ii-;  liiit  Lieutenant  < 'ani'-r--!!  -linwed  t!i-'  wav-wi.rn  m--ii  <-\  •  rv 
I.  indii'--.  ' 'hnnri  r--t'd  '-n-'  dav  li«fl-r--  «- tt  iii'_r  "'it  t-»  ri-lii'Vi« 
M;-'  lomrail*-.  I"  wh-iin  h-  ha-l  :irr:m_"d  t"  niak--  hi-  \\a\  a^  -«"-n 
•i-  JH. --!!,!.-.  Lii-nti-:iaiit  ' 'anii-r-Mi  .  \  jii-.'--.d  a  f-  -ii"  that  it  \\---nld 
M'-t  !,.•  -ali'  ('"!'  hita  t-.  i-ari-v  t!i--  i-l-.'h  If  u  i-  willing  t"  lurMi-li 
'ii-ni  ",  rh  i!  IP  had  ii"'  a  -'  nui  _'«•!•  -  -  in\'»\  .  a-  h«-  hiin-'-ll  hail 
«nf!'- r--d  t--.  -•.!•'!•.  fr»'ii  t'-rriti"  I  l»-ir--r-  "ti  hi-  wav  thith'-r;  1-ut 
th'-  v«-M!K_'  l"ll->u-  W--P-  pr--:!v  \'.'ll  a-'iinaint'-d  with  nativo 
niarau'l.  r-  !•%•  (hi-  tiiii--,  an-1  -.  t  otV  \\ithoiil  a]ipreheM^ioM. 


THK    HKSOl.rTlO.V    OF   TUP!    MKN.  fo9 

And  now  tin-  greater  part  of  their  task  i*  over.  Tin-  Weather- 
beaten  compailV  wind  their  \vav  into  tin1  Well-kllown  settlement 

of  Kwiliarn.  A  ln»-t  of  Aralwand  their  attendant  slave-  meet 
them  a-*  I  hey  sorrowfully  conveyed  their  charge  t-i  the  same 
temlw  iii  \vhirh  the  "weary  waiting"  was  endured  In-fore,  and 
then  thev  submitted  to  the  sv-tematic  questioning  which  tin- 
native  traveller  is  .so  well  alile  to  sustain. 

Minim  bo's  war  draped  on  its  length,  ami  matters  h:ul 
ehanged  verv  little  siiuv  fhev  wen-  there  Ix-tlire.  either  I'm-  hetter 
or  fi>r  worse.  They  found  the  Kugli-li  officers  extremely  short 
of  goods;  hut  Lieutenant  < 'arneron,  no  douht  with  the  object  of 
his  expedition  full  in  view,  very  properly  felt  it  a  first  dtitv  to 
relieve  the  wants  of  the  partv  that  had  jwrfonned  this  herculean 
feat  of  bringing  the  hodv  of  the  traveller  he  hail  been  -ent  to 
relieve,  together  with  every  article  beloniring  to  him  at  the  time 
of  his  death,  ;is  far  as  this  main  road  to  the  eoa-t. 

Serious  doubts  were  entertained  bv  Lieutenant  ( 'ameron 
whether  the  risk  of  taking  the  bodv  ot'  I  )r.  Livingstone  through 
the  l't_r|)ur<>  eountrv  ought  to  be  run.  It  verv  naturally  occurred 
to  him  that  Dr.  Livingstone  might  have  felt  a  wi-h  during  life 
to  IM'  buried  in  the  same  laixl  in  which  the  remain^  of  hi-  wife 
lay.  for  it  will  be  rcmt'inbered  that  the  sjrave  of  Mr-.  Living- 
stone is  at  Slmpanga,  on  the  Zambe-i.  All  this  wa.-  put  before 
the  men,  but  thev  steadilv  adhered  to  their  first  conviction — 
that  it  was  right  at  all  risks  to  attempt  to  bear  their  ma-ter 
home,  and  thev  were  no  longer  urged  to  burv  him  at  Kwihara. 

l»v  making  a  ten  davs' detour  at  ".lua  Sin^a."  and  travelling 
bv  a  path  well  known  to  one  of'  their  partv  through  the  jungle 
ot'  I'oli  \~a  ven<_ji,  thev  hoped  to  avoid  the  \\airoj"  and  keep 
o;it  of'  harm's  wav,  and  to  be  alile  to  make  the  doth  hold  out 
with  which  thev  were  supplied. 

Making  an  earlv  -tart,  the  bodv  \vas  etirried  t"  Ka-ekera  l>y 
Su-i'<  partv.  where,  from  an  evident  di-  inclination  to  rnvive  it 
intothevillage.au  encampment  wa<  made  oiit-ide.  A  eonsul- 
tation  now  became  neci---arv.  There  wa-  no  di-gui-ing  the  tact 
that  it'  thev  kept  al»n^  the  main  road  intelligence  wi-uld  pre- 
cede them  concci-ninu'  that  in  \\hich  thev  were  rngag"d,  stirring 
up  i-ertain  ho-tilitv  and  jeopardi/in^  the  ni"-t  preci..u<  charge 
they  liad.  A  plan  was  <|uickly  hit  upon.  I'nob-t-rvetl.  the 


670  JfSTIFIAIU.F.    PFCFTTION. 

men  removed  the  <-<>rp>e  of  tlie  deceased  explorer  from  the 
package  in  which  it  had  hitherto  been  eonveved,  and  burin]  the 
bark  ea-e  in  the  hut  in  the  thicket  around  the  village  in  which 
th'-v  had  pla<-«-d  it.  The  object  now  wa-  to  throw  the  villagers 
of]'  th'  ir  'juard,  bv  making  believe  that  thev  had  relin.pii-hed 
the  attempt  to  c-ari'V  the  bodv  to  /an/ihar.  Thev  f.  :_[ued  that 
tlr-v  had  abandoned  their  ta.-k,  having  changed  their  mind-, 
an  1  that  it  mu-t  Ix-  -ent  back  to  I'nvanvembe  to  In-  buri.'d 
then-.  In  the  mean  time  the  eurp-e  of  miv--itv  had  to  IK-  con- 
ci-ali-d  in  the  -malle-t  -pace  po--ible,  it'  thev  were  aetuallv  to 
conv«  v  it  -ecretiv  for  the  t'uture;  this  wa<  ijuicklv  managed. 

Su-i  and  i  'inima  went  into  the  wood  anil  -tripped  oil'  a  fiv-h 
l'ii_Mh  ot'  baik  from  an  X'gonilK1  tree;  in  this  the  remain-. 
eonveii!"iit Iv  prepared  a-  to  length,  were  placed,  the  whole  IM-JH^ 
surrounded  with  calico  in  -ueh  a  manner  a-  to  appear  like  an 
ordinary  travelling  bale,  which  wa<  then  deposited  \\ith  the  re-t 
ut'  th"  '_'ood-.  Th'-v  next  proee"il"d  to  Bather  a  t'airot  of 
mapira--talk-.  euttiti";  them  in  length-  ol'  -i\  f  ,-t  ,.[•  -,..  imd 
-wa'hinj-  th'-m  nmnd  with  cloth  to  imitate  a  dead  bodv  about 
to  !»•  buried.  Thi-  don.-,  a  jiaper,  folded  -..  a-  to  repre-ent  a 
|ett.-r.  wa-  dulv  plaeeil  in  a  cleft  -tick,  aceordin^  to  the  native 
letfer-earri'-r'-  eu-totu.  and  -i\  tru-t'.\orthv  men  wej-e  told  oil' 
o-'"M-:b!y  to  -o  with  the  corp-e  to  I  "nvanvemhe,  \\'ith  due 
-••'e-'iinity  th"  m.-n  -••(  out  :  the  villager-  \\ere  nidv  too  thankful 
t-i  -•  ••  it,  and  no  one  -u-p.-et.-d  the  rtl-e.  It  \\a-  m-ar  -undown. 
Tii"  b.-arer-  of  the  pa^ka/e  h"!d  on  their  wav.  (ill  tairU  bev.md 

all  chance  of  d"'.-etion.  and  th.-n  be-an  to  di-j.o f  their  load. 

I  h"  mapira— ti.-k-  w.'j-e  thi-o-\ii  one  |iy  one  larauav  into  the 
jun_'!.-.  and  u  h.-n  all  w.-re  di-p..-,d  ..f.  th"  \\rappin--  \\en- 
eiiiinin'/lv  -_'.»!  rid  «f  in  rh"  -anie  way.  <Ioinj  firth,  r  on,  lir-t 
o'i"  m  in.  and  'ln-n  ano'!i"V.  -pruii'_r  "!"ar  t'f'Mii  tin-  path  into  ;he 
I"'!.-  _"-i--.  to  l.-ave  no  tra.-e  ,,f  J'.M, t-tep-.  and  th"  \\hole  partv 
r.-u;-..-d  by  diiV-rent  way-  t»  their  .-..lupanion-.  who  had  b.-n 

,1.1    .!.._ 


•••i.   M-I-    -.'M,.-,j,  ,)    ..-,,•(,     ,,,,    |--la\ed     \  i_'i!.in- •  .     and    •  \  >  n!  u:i!  !v 

-'"-'-     'h"  l-ivk   ""}]in  -rid   wrapj-iii'_'-.  eontainin^    I':.   l.i\iirj- 

"-I;  .  ..ii  !h-  arrival  at    I'.a-aMioio.        \nd   i.o-.v.  ,1,-.,, id  ,,f 

".   tlf  p-  of    K.I-.  !.,  ra  a-k.-d    lli'-m    a!!    to  ,  onu    and    fak« 


A    DIlKADFt'l.    s.NAKK.  <i71 

up  their  quarters  in  the  town  ;  a  privily?  which  wa-  denial 
tin-in  so  long  ;i.s  it  was  known  that  they  had  th<-  remains  of  the 
<l'-.i'l  with  tin-in. 

!•  rum  ka.-ekcra  we  mu-t  follow  Sn-i's  troop  through  a  n«.i 
altogether  event  l«-s>  joiirncv  to  the  x-a.  Some  dav>  after  leav- 
ing KiiM'ktTH,  a-  they  wended  their  wav  through  a  rockv  plan-, 
a  little  girl  in  their  train,  named  I,o-i,  met  her  death  iit  a 
shocking  way.  It  appear.-  that  the  pour  child  was  earrving  a 
water-jar  on  her  head  in  the  file  of  people,  when  an  enormous 
-nake  da>hcd  across  the  path,  delilieratelv  struck  her  in  the 
thigh,  and  made  for  a  hole  in  the  jungle  elo.-e  at  hand.  This 
work  of  a  moment  was  siiilieient,  i'nr  the  poor  girl  iMI  m<»rtallv 
wounded.  She  wa-  carrie<l  forward,  and  all  means  at  hand 
were  applied,  hut  in  le»  than  ten  minute-  the  !a-t  -vinptom 
(foaming  at  the  month)  -ct  in,  and  -he  cea-ed  to  hreathe. 

Here  is  a  we!l-aulhentic;ited  instance  which  LTOCS  far  to  prove 
the  truth  of  an  assertion  made  to  travellers  in  nianv  part-  of 
Al'rieti.  The  native-  protest  that  one  -pecies  of  -nake  will  de- 
liherately  cha.-e  and  overtake  his  victim  with  lightning  -pe.d. 
and  so  dreadfully  dangerous  j-  it.  hoth  t'rom  the  activity  »\'  its 
j)oi-un  and  it.-  vicioii<  pro|x'nsities,  that  it  i-  pcrilmi-  to  approa--h 
it-  «|iiartcr-.  Mo-t  -insular  to  relate,  an  Aral)  eanii-  to  -oini-  of 
the  men  after  their  arrival  at  /an/il»ar  and  told  tin  in  that  hi- 
had  jn-t  come  \>v  the  I  nvanvctnlK1  road,  and  that,  \\hil-t  p-i  — 
IIIL:  the  identical  >pot  where  thi-  di-a-ter  occiim-d.  on-'  ol'  tin- 
men  was  attacked  \}\-  the  -aim-  .-nake.  with  pn-ei-i'lv  the  -ame 
re-ult-  ;  in  fact,  \\  hen  looking  tor  a  place  in  which  to  Imrv  him 
they  -aw  the  grav«-  of  Lo-i,  and  the  two  lie  -ide  !>v  -ide. 

Natal  eoloni-ts  will  prohahlv  rcco^m/e  th<-  Manilla  in  tin- 
snake;  it  i-  much  to  lie  der-ired  that  spe<-imeiis  should  l»e  pro- 
cured tor  pnrpo-c-  ot'  comparison.  In  sonthern  Africa  -o  ;_T'  at 
is  the  dread  it  in-piiv-  that  the  (  'atl'rc-  will  hr«-ak  up  a  kraal 
and  tin-sake  the  nlaee  if  a  Maml»a  takes  up  hi-  quarter-  in  :!  •• 
vicinity,  and,  from  what  we  have  -eeii  alnive.  with  no  niid;.-- 
caution. 

S'i-i,  to  whom  thi-  -nake  wa.-  known  in  tin-  ShupatiLr:i  i"M_:!ie 
a-  "  r.ul'ii,"  d«-criltr-  it  a-  al'oiit  twelve  ti-et  li'ii'j.  dark  in  •  "'••;. 
of  a  dirty  lihie  under  the  h.-llv.  with  red  marking,  like  r!;.- 
wattJc-  of  a  cock,  on  the  In-ad.  Tin-  Aral'-  ur"  -"  liir  a.-  t"  -av 


fi7'2  DKI.IYKK:N<;  THKIR  CHARGE. 

fhat  it  i-  known  t<>  oppose  tin1  pa.ssajy  of  a  caravan  at  times. 
Twisting  its  tail  round  a  branch,  it  will  strike  one  man  at  tor 
another  in  the  head  uith  fatal  certaintv.  Their  remedv  \>  t*> 
(ill  a  jMit  with  b-'ilint;  water,  which  i-  put  on  tin-  head  and 
carried  iiinli-r  th--  tree!  The  Miake  da>lus  hi-  head  into  this 
and  i-  killfl  —  the  -lorv  i>  ^iven  lor  what  it  i.-  worth. 

At  la-t  tin-  e..a-t  town  of  Ba^anioio  came  in  .-i^ht,  and  before 
rnanv  h«»ur-  were  over  one  of  Her  Majesty'.*  cruisers  conveyed 
the  actin.:  c«>n-u!,  (  'aptain  I'rideaux,  from  Xan/ihar  to  the  sjw>t 
which  the  cortege  liad  reached.  Arrangements  were  quickly 
made  for  tran-portiti'.:  the  remains  of  I  >r.  Livingstone  to  the 
inland,  >ome  ihirtv  miles  distant,  ami  then  it  iRi-anu*  jx'rhajw 
rather  to<i  painfully  plain  to  the  men  that  thi-ir  task  was 

filil-ln-d. 

( )ne   word   on  :i  -nlijeet    which   will   commend   it. self  to  most 

If'foiv   we  cln-i-   tlii'    loii-j  eVelltt'tll    InMorv. 

\\  i  -.aw  what  a  train  of  Indian  SCJKIV-,  .Johanna  men,  N:ts- 
~:<  k  IMIV-,  and  Shnpan^u  canoe-men,  aeeninpanied  Dr.  Livinj;- 
vtone  wln-n  he  -tailed  from  /an/il>ar  in  1  Ml»i  to  enter  II|M»II  his 
la-t  di~e. iverie-  :  ..!'  all  the.-e,  live  onlv  eoiild  an.-wer  to  the  roll- 
call  a>  tliev  handed  over  the  dead  !)IM!\  of  their  leadei  to  his 
c.iiintrvmen  on  the  -linn--  whither  tliev  had  retnrne«l,  and  this 
alter  i  i_;lit  vcar-'  de-peratr  -ervice. 

<  )n<  e  more  \\r  n-peat  the  name-  o.  the-e  men.  Sn-i  and 
.lame-  ( 'liiima  have  l>«eii  siiilit-iently  prominent  throughout— 
hardU"  -o  perhap-  lia-  Ani'>da,  their  comrade  ever  -inee  the 
/,i!iili--i  da->-  "t  l^'il:  ilicii  \\  e  hav  Aliram  and  Malirnki, 

•  a'   !i    uith     -el'Vlce     tc»     -h'>w    tV'MIl     the     time     he     left     the     Na-Mck 

('..!!._'.•  with  the  doctor  iii  1  Mi").  \,,|-  nin-t  we  ti.i-L'et  Ntoaeka 
and  Halima,  the  twn  native  'jirl-  nt  whom  we  have  heard  -uch 
a  •_'')<•  d  «-hara< -t«  r  :  lh-\  ca-t  in  tln-ir  l"t  with  th«-  wanderer-  in 
M.HM  'i.-m.i  It  .1..I  -  -.-..iii  -trance  t"  h--ar  th<-  nn n  siv  that  no 
•  <H,ni  r  did  lie  v  arrive  at  i  h-  ir  joiirnev'-  end  than  they  w  ere  -«> 
I  u  li'iWiied  -nit  i.t'  in »l ice,  that  iii-t  -••  miieh  a.-  a  pa— a^'e  t«.  the 
i-!.uid  "  :i-  ••:].  r>-d  tli"in  when  thur  Imrdeii  wa-  l>nrne  awa\. 
\\ '••  mn-t  !I"|H-  th  it  it  i-  n»t  !••«'  late  .  v-n  f"r  the  -ake  <•('  e..n- 

r.-t«lt'-.          t.i    pill     l!     i. n     !•••«••  "I'd     that     </'/",.  r.  ;  'a  — l-ti'd      I  ,i\  IIIL'-l"lie, 

•.»h-ili'-r   ".  Int.-    i.i'    !•!:!•  K.   ha-    ii'«t    l»-n   overloukitl    ill     i'iiejlaiid. 
N    th.'-«-   '.\it!i   \\i-..Mi    h-    -p'-nf     In-   la-t     \-i-ar-    inn-l     imt     pa.-** 
:i".  i1.    !!f'i   A  !i  I'M  a.;  i;n  nni  •  w  arded,  and    l"-t   t«i-i'jht. 


VAM'AHI.K   SKIIVICF.S    OF    StJSI    AND   rill'MA.  r~~, 

A  very  great  deal  is  owing  to  these  live  men,  and  we  say  it 
emphatically.  If  the  world  has  gratified  a  reasonable  \vi.-h  \'.< 
learning  all  that  concerns  the  last  days  on  earth  of  a  truly  \>«\>\i- 
eoiiiitrvinan  and  his  wonderful  enterprise,  the  means  of  cluing 
so  eonld  never  have  IM-CII  placed  at  our  disposal  hut  lor  Un- 
ready willingness  which  made  Stisi  and  ('hiiina  deterinijie,  il 
possible,  to  render  an  account  to  some  of  those  whom  they  had 
known  as  their  master's  old  eompauioiis.  If  tin-  geographer 
finds  before  him  new  facts,  new  discoveries,  new  theories,  a-< 
Living-tone  alone  could  record  them,  it  is  right  and  proper  ihat 
he  should  feel  the  part  these  men  have  plaved  in  fiinii-liiii'_r 
him  with  such  valuable  matter.  Nothing  but  such  leader-hip 
and  stauuehuess  as  that  which  organi/ed  the  march  home  from 
I  Mala,  and  distinguished  it  throughout,  could  have  brought 
Livingstone's  bones  to  Kngland,  or  his  last  notes  and  map.-  to 
the.  outer  world.  They  performed  their  service  noblv. 

The  mournful  tidings  was  quirk ly  convoyed  to  London,  and 
it  thrilled  the  world  with  sorrow.  A  few  davs  onlv  the  un- 
willing hearts  of  friends  entertained  trembling  hope  that  tip-re 
mi'dit  be  a  mistake:  the  eonfirmation  was  inevitable;  the  pain- 

O  I 

ful  anxietv  was  relieved  by  the  more  painful  certain! v.  Tho-»- 
who  had  watched  with  deepest  interest  the  life  of  the  great,  man 
eould  onlv  wait  with  deepest  sadness  to  welcome  his  lilMe-s 
bodv  back  to  burial  ;  the  world  could  onlv  wait  for  the  final 
story,  that  it  might  embalm  the  complete  life  in  its  reverence 
and  memorv. 

The  precious  freight  was  shipped  from  Xanx.ibar  in  I-Ybruarv. 
in  care  of  Mr.  Arthur  Yoiin^.  There  was  the  bodv,  and  with 
it  all  the  hooks,  papers,  and  personal  etli-ct-  of  J)r.  Liviu^tone. 
At  Aden  Mr.  Young  was  joined  bv  Mr.  Thomas  Living-tone. 
the  oldest  son  of  the  missionary,  a  mercantile  a^-nt  in  L_;.'''t, 
and  all  was  reshipped  in  the  "Malwa"  fin1  Ln^laiid.  \Viiesi 
the  ship  arrived  at  Southampton  a  dep.ntation  of'  the  !i'.\a! 
(Jeograj)hica!  Society,  with  a  lew  of  the  per-onal  friend^  d'  IV. 
Livingstone,  were  awaiting  it,  and  were  eoiulucte<l  to  the  mall 
room,  where  the  cotlin  lav  in  lonelv  state,  wrapped  wiiii  th-.; 
flags  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  ( 'oinpanv,  guarded  bv 
Jacob  Wainwright,  a  faithful  sentinel,  who  had  been  aHo\\,d  to 
represent  the  noble  men  who  had  so  bravely  brought  the  bur 


OF    THK    Itony. 

den  out  of  the  wilderness.  The  coflin  was  next  transferred  to 
the  deck  of  tli'-  "<^ueeu,"  in  the  presence  of  a  soleaiu  and 
respectful  companv,  standing  with  uwoverod  heads;  while  a 
ladv  ctime  forward  and  placed  on  the  lid  a  U-autiful  wreath  of 
M«>\\-er-.  I-'rom  the  Royal  Wharf  at  Southampton  the  lovinjj 
friend-  attt -nded  their  charge  to  London,  where  it  was  received 
with  -ad  n-vei-eiKv  and  placed  in  state  in  the  hall  of  the  ( ieo- 
irraphical  Soci.-tv.  The  identification  of  the  I)IK!V  was  umpies- 
tionalile.  \\"e  ivmenilxT  the  mark  which  ( !«»d  had  cau-ed  to  U> 
jilac.il  on  the  man  .-«»  manv  year-  hefore  in  Smth  Africa.  In-fore 
la-  '••lit  him  forth  on  his  toilsome  and  perilous  mi-.-ion  ;  l>v  that 
"lie  mai'k,  more  than  all  el-e.  ahsolute  (vrtaintv  could  he  had. 
It  wa.-  important  that  there  should  IH>  no  douht  in  the  matter, 
and  a  formal  examination  of'  the  hodv  wa-  ordered.  This 
examination  wa-  conducted  hv  Sir  \\illiam  l-Yr-_ru  —  <iu  and  the 
fri'-nd-  "I  Living-tone;  and  we  are  allowed  to  introduce  tlu» 
li-tt'T  in  \\hich  Sir  William  uive-  his  account  of  it.  H<  -av- : 

"  \\  iihiu  the  la-t  few  month-  manv  have  hoitated  to  IM  lieve 
that  Livingstone  was  dead.  Al»»ve  all  it  seemed  I «•  voi id  ordinary 
jirolialiilitv  that  hi-  remains  would  have  I  MTU  lu'ou^ht  from  cen- 
tral Afri'-a  to  the  h.  art  "!-  London.  That  a  l-.dv  \\a-  on  it.- 
\vav  from  tin-  all  hut  invthical  re-jion  could  hardlv  !>••  il(iiilite«l 
alti-r  til-'  examination  at  Xaii/.ihar  of  the  remain-,  hut  manv 
uer.-  -..'j.tical  a-  to  thi-  dfad  frame  heiirj  that  of  Living-tone. 
Happilv  it  \\a-  horn-'  in  mind  l>v  manv  old  friend-  that  h--  had 
"!)'•  ••"iidition  ..f  li"d\  \\hirh  \\"iild  mark  th.-  idcnt ilicatioii  of 
!ii-  r'-ma;n-  evi-n  it  v«-ar-  and  \ ••  -ar-  had  elap-<  d.  1  I  i:  -hoiild 
IH-  ppi\-.-d  nn  anatomical  examination  the  remain-  "t  :m  "Id  nn- 
ture  in  hi-  !••!»  hniueru-  arm  iton.-.  could  !>••  !•••.•"_'- 
t  on  the  -nl.ji-et  \\ould  IM-  -i-nl<-d  at  mice  and  l->r- 
i  t"  m v  lot  t"  have  th.-  honor  "I  ! n-m^ 

and    I    have 

II1.'       -•  e|J      ] 


II    \\ 

...  I    t. .    -i  cun 
d  i  t  i i  •  •  Ion 
i •'  .i'  Ii  a  |''.a«-- 
d  ih.-ir  ' 
U'l:  :    th«-  1-  njth  "t'  th«-  hulk   "f  package  ua-.  n-duci-d    t"  * 


-. 


TIIK   (JKNKKAI.    COMHTION.  077 

little  OVCT  fblir  feet.      The  soft   ti--||i->  seem   to  have  b'-i  M   removed 

to  a  ijrcat  extent  I'rom  tin-  bone-,  aii'l  the-e  latter  \.ii<  -i,  di-- 
j)osc(l  that  by  doubling  and  otherwise  the  shortening  ua-  aeeom- 
pli.-hed.  I  hr  alxloininal  vi.-eera  were  ab-ent,  aixl  -o  \\ere  tho-e 
of  the  che.-t,  including,  of'  eoiir-e,  heart  ami  Inn-j-.  There  h;i<l 
IMVII  made  a  larue  opening  in  front  of  the  alxlomcn,  and  through 
that  the  native  operators  had  in^eniou>lv  contrived  to  remove 
the  contents  ot'  the  chc.-t  as  well  as  of  the  al>dom<  n.  The  .-kin 
over  chest,  sternum,  and  rilis  had  lu'cn  untouched.  Melon-  the-e 
points  were  elearlv  a>eertained  .-nine  eoar-e  tape-  had  to  lie 
loosened,  which  set  free  some  n>n;_rli  linen  material  —  a  -triped 
colored  hit  of  cotton  cloth,  such  as  ini^ht  have  IH-CII  an  attractive 
material  for  the  natives  aiming  whom  Living-tone  traveled — a 
coarse  cotton  shirt,  which  doul>tlc.-s  heloir^ed  to  tin- traveller's 
scsinty  wardrol>e,  and  in  particular  a  lar^c  jmiiion  of  the  hark 
of  a  tree,  which  had  formed  the  principal  part  of  the  pael<a^< — 
the  case  thereof  no  iloulit.  The  skin  of  the  trunk,  from  the. 
pelvis  to  the  crown  oi'  the  head,  had  heen  untouched.  Mverv- 
where  was  that  shrivelling  which  miulit  have  heen  expected 
after  salting,  baking  in  tin*  sun,  and  eleven  month-  of  time. 
The  features  of  the  lace  could  not  l»e  reco^ni/.ed.  The  hair  on 
the  scalp  was  plentiful,  and  much  longer  than  he  wore  it  when 
last  in  Kii^'lund.  A  mustache  could  not  l>e  rcco^m/ed,  luit 
whiskers  were  in  abundance.  The  forehead  was  in  -hape  -ueh 
as  we  are  familiar  with  from  inemorv,  and  trom  the  picture- and 
bust-  now  extant.  The  cireiimterenee  ot'  the  cranium,  t'roin  the 
occiput  to  the  brow,  wa-  i1-')^  inches,  which  was  iveo;_rni/cd 
bv  some  prcsi'nt  to  be  in  accordance  \\ith  such  mea-un  im •!!!- 
when  alive.  In  particular  the  arms  attracted  attentinn.  T hex- 
lav  a-  if  ])laeed  in  ordinarv  i'a-hi'm,  cadi  down  by  the  -ide. 
The  -kin  and  ti-sues  under  were  on  each  -idc  -lirunlv  almo-t 

to  skeleton  bulk,  and  at  a  glance  to   praeti-ed  ey. there  \\cre 

livi\  I    mav  sav  -i\.  professional    men    p:v-rnt — the  -ta'e 
left    arm  wa-    such    as    to   eonvinee   every  one    prc-icm   \\1 
examined     it    during     life    that     the    limb    wa-      IJvin^- 
1'lxaetly  in    the   region    of  the  attachment    of  the   del;.. id 
humerus  there  were  the  indications  of  an  obli(jue  fracture 
movir.^  i lie  arm  ther.'  were  the  indication-  of  the  iinnnitc 
ture.      A  closer  investigation  and   di-section  di.-played   :he   t'ai<t' 


f>7S  Tin:    I  N.MISTAKA1U.K    MAHK. 

•  ...:  which  had  Ion;;  a^o  IKHMI  so  well  recognized  liv  those  who 
l.;i'l  cxaniiiutl  the  arm  in  former  day-.  The  Rev.  \)r.  Moftitt,  and 
in  particular  \*r.  Kirk,  late  of  /aii/ihar,  and  I)r.  London,  of 
Hamilton,  in  S-otland,  at  once  nvo^m/.cd  the  condition.  Hav- 
ing my-clf  Ix-cn  eon-u!ted  reurardin^  tin-  state  of  tin-  limb  when 
Living-tone  was  la-t  in  London,  I  was  convinced  that  thi- 
n-mains of  the  ijreat  traveller  lav  U-tore  us.  Thousands  of 
head-  \siili  a  like  lar^e  circumlcrcnce  mi^ht  have-  IM-CU  under 
Hinilar  n-rutiny  ;  the  -.kcletous  of  hundreds  of*  thousands  niijlit 

liave    l»ern    -«.;    (lie  hllliieru-    in   eaeh    liii_rlit    have    l>eeil    perieet  . 

ii'mie  or  Ixith  had  IH-I-H  Ln'okeii  during  lite  it  would  have  united 
ajain  in  such  a  manner  that  a  tyro  rottitl  ea-ilv  have  tU'ttt-tcd 
the  [Mi'tiliarity.  The  condition  ot'  unuuiti-d  fracture  in  thi- 
l"i-:uit\-  i-  excetilinirly  rare.  I  say  thi-  from  mv  jiei>oiial  pro- 
(•--ioiial  evpt-nenec,  and  that  >iieh  a  .-perinn-n  >hotiid  liave 
tni'in-d  up  in  London  from  the  centre  of  A  frica,  excepting  in  the 
Inxlv  ot  l>r.  LivniL'^'oii'',  where  it  \\a-  known  hv  compctri,! 
authorities  to  have  exi-t.-d.  i-  hevoiid  human  ennlilulitv.  It 
iiiu-t  not  he  Mi|ipo-eil  !iv  lho-e  \\lio  arc  not  profi-ssioiiallv 
a<i|ilaintcd  with  thi-  kind  of  !e>ioll  — \\llieh  <iften  (IIUM^  so  lunch 
intcr-'-t  to  the  practical  -ur^cou — that  a  fracture  aix I  new  joint 
of  the  Ivitpl  D.,\S  referre<|  to  e..uld  have  IH-CII  of  recent  date  or 
made  fora  pnrpo-c.  '1  here  \\ere  in  rea!il\  all  the  indications 
which  t he  ex jM-rienccii  patholo^i.*|  reeo^ni/e-  a-  infallible,  -urh 
a-  the  attenuated  condition  ot'  lie-  tu<»  irrcat  fragment.-  leommon 
under  *ue|i  i-ireiim-tane.  - ',  and  tin-  M-ndilauec  of  a  IH-W  joint, 
hut  actualiv  ihen*  wa.- a  small  fragment  detached  tVom  theo(hi-r« 
which  l«irc  out  Livingstone's  o\\  n  vi<  \\  that  the  limn--  had  I  in  n 
'  erii-le -i I  into  -plint<T-.'  Having  had  ample  opportunity  o! 
e\aminm_p  tie-  arm  during  lite,  and  convcr-m^  \\ith  l.i\in^- 
»-tone  mi  the  -nlijci't,  and  In-in-^  on.-  ..(  ihn-e  \\lio  entertained 
ho|>.  -  that  lie-  !a-t  nporl-  <•!'  Li\  in- -ton, '-  ,1-Mi  I,  mielit .  li  K,- 
otli'i--.  prove  !:i!-e.  I  approached  \\>>-  examination  \\itii  an 
anxioii-  |..ii!i_r  P  _rai<lin_r  th:>  ^reai  ;md  mo-t  peculiar  enii'ial 
t-  -t.  I  ii-  lii  t  •/lane.-  al  tip-  N-Ji  arm  >«•!  mv  mind  at  n--t,  and 
t  ii.it .-.'.!'  ii  ill-  t'uri  h«  r  c\amili:tt  ion,  made  ne  a-  |  "  •-;!  i  \  e  a-  to 
llif  I'l'-nrif.  ot  ill'---  [•'•main-  a-  thai  tli-i--  ha-  I  •<  <  n  anion^  im 
in  HP  "  i>  :  n  I  im«  -  "iie  ot  t  In-  -jr  -ate-t  m-  n  <>t  t  lie  human  i  ace  — 
I»av.d  I.  .  in--!one." 


fllK    LAST    ItKHTING-PLACK.  GT'J 

After  the  identification  the  remain-,  were  plae<-d  in  a  simple 
casket.  A  hist  resting-place  had  l>ccn  assigned  it  in  Westminster 
AbU'v.  On  Saturday,  April  IS,  1S71,  it  was  borne  thither 
amid  such  testimonies  of  profound  res  pee  t  as  did  honor  to  tin; 
metropolis.  The  name  and  achievements  of  Living-tour  wen* 
a  talisman  which  leathered  within  the  walls  of  that  \vixTabie 
abbey  a  throng  of  mourners  as  unique  and  diverse  as  were  ever 
assembled  by  an  open  grave.  There  were  distinguished  .-•tales- 
men, and  explorers,  and  missionaries,  and  hunters.  And  ming- 
ling with  them  the  honored  clergymen  and  laymen  who  had  eo- 
operated  with  him  in  establishing  the  Zanzibar  Mission.  Men 
of  ull  callings  and  creeds,  sorrowfully  glad  to  totify  their  rev- 
erence for  the  philanthropist,  the  patriot  and  (,'hristian.  Xeare.-t 
the  coilin,  as  it  was  carried  up  the  splendid  aisle,  were  the  ehil- 
dreii,  Thomas  S.,  Agnes,  William  Oswell,  and  Anna  Mary 
Livingstone.  One,  bearing  a  familiar  name,  Robert,  who-e 
childish  sweetness  so  won  the  heart  of  Sebituane,  had  fallen 
years  before,  under  the  assumed  name  of  Rupert  }  on  our  own 
soil,  and  rested  in  an  unknown  soldier's  grave.  Next  to  the 
children  were  two  .sorrowing  sisters  of  the  explorer,  and  the 
wife  of  Mr.  Charles  Livingstone,  and  with  them  there  was  the 
white-bearded  patriarch,  Robert  Moilat,  who  had  given  him  his 
daughter  Mary  in  marriage  at  distant  Kuruman.  Behind  the.-e 
came  the  Duke  of  Sutherland,  the  Lord  Advocate  of  Scotland, 
Lords  Shaftesbury  and  Houghton,  Sir  Bartle  Fivre,  Dr.  Lion 
Play  lair,  Sir  II.  Rawlinson,  Lord  Lawrence,  Sir  F.  Buxton, 
the  Honorable  Arthur  Kinnaird,  and  a  lon^  procession  eoin- 
posed  of  the  Geographical  savants  of  Great  Britain.  The  .-oft, 
grand,  solemn  strains  of  funeral  son<j;  tilled  the  place.  The 
burial  service  was  read  bv  Dean  Stanley,  assisted  bv  (  'anon.s 
Conway  and  Leighton.  A  wreath  of  tlmver-,  with  a  card  on 
which  was  written,  ''A  tribute  of  re.-peet  and  admiration  from 
Queen  Victoria,"  was  placed  on  the  casket,  just  over  the  simple 
inscription  : 

I>.\vin  I.IVIN.,-TI  INK. 
Bor.N  AT  IIi.ANrvnr.  LAN  VKK^HIKI;,  S 


DIED  AT  Ii  .i.Ai.A.  '  'IN  \-\\\\.  Ari:u'A, 
MAY    1,  I-::1,. 


CsO 


UXCOVETEU    HOXOK. 


Aiul  the  Ixxlv  of  tin-  man  who  had  bequeathed  the  world  tin- 
legacy  of  an  entire  lilt-  con.M-crnted  to  Christ  in  the  midst  of 
Millennia  ami  -acritiers  inexpressible  was  left  in  that  v;f*t 
man-oleum  «>f  Kn^lant.!'.**  nm-t  honuml  servants. 

I>avi«l  Liviii^-tmn'  \va>  l>uri»-<l.  I'rohaMy  he  would  have 
juvtrnvd  an  iininarkttl  ^ravc  in  Central  Africa.  His  had  Invn 
a  loftier  anil)iiion  than  tin-  di-tinmii.-hcd  general's,  wlio  plnn^iii 
;nttt  thr  liattlr  "i"  the  Nilr,  exrlaiiniii^,  "A  jM-craue,  or  Wr>t- 
niin-li -r  . \liln-v!"  Lo\c  prevailed  in  the  counsels  of  his  heart, 
and  >lioiie  in  all  his  life.  He  sought  the  Kingdom  of  (i«xl  ; 
!ii<e  hi-  Master,  he  lived  i'or  other-,  and  died.  Men  honored  him 
in  hi-  death.  It  i-  well:  hut  better,  if  thev  allow  the  impress 
of  hi-  _Teatne.-v-  and  ur'MHlne>-s  on  their  .^oul.-,  and  are  incited  l>y 
his  example  to  nobler  live-. 


CHAPTER    XXXVI. 


Discouragements — Reovnt  Successes  of  Kxplorcrs— -Revival  of  Interest — f'oriv. 
niercinl  Importance — Familiar  Trees  of  North  and  \Ve<t  Africa-  Tropical 
Africa — (ieneral  Appearance — Soiitli  African  Fore-is  —  Lumber  Kxports— 
Kxcellcnce  of  Soil  -Cotton,  Coffee,  etc.  Mineral  Ue-ource-  (iold  Mines- 
Copper  Mines — Diamond  Fields— The  Ivory  Tracle  --  ( 'ommcrce  of  West  Cn;i>t 
—The  Slave-Trade— Raker's  Work -Slave-Trad,  r-  Clas-ilied  Slavs  Chi.-si- 
fietl — Sources  ot  tlie  Trade  Classified  —  Total  Annual  Trallic  in  Slavt —  Theories 
for  Suppression— The  Tendency  of  F.vents — Not  an  Ahstract  (Question-  Slavery 
lias  liad  its  Mission — The  Nations  Against  It— Providence  in  the  Revolution 
— The  Nile — Hakcr — Speke — Livingstone — Mission: — The  Former  Successes 
— (ieneral  Inlhienee — The  Prospect. 

COSTLY  indeed  have  been  the  sacrifices  made  for  the  redemp- 
tion of  Africa.  Providence  has  seemed  to  patronize  barbarism 
in  a  perpetual  and  fatal  monopoly  of  the  continent.  The  land 
lias  been  thought  of  as  a  prison.  Insalubrious  airs  infr.-t  the 
coasts  and  cataracts,  obstruct  the  rivers — the  malaria  has  been  a 
wall,  the  rivers  have  been  barred  gates.  The  obstinate  gloom 
has  been  called  a  curse,  which  human  benevolence  could  not 
presume  to  change.  The  baffled  ages  have  been  perplexed. 
The  task  has  seemed  hopeless,  discouragements  have  fostered 
doubts,  destiny  has  seemed  to  deny  the  obligations  of  eivili/a- 
tion,  Christianity  has  parleyed  with  expediency,  science  has 
counted  the  costs.  Over  and  over  a^ain  the  wearied  energies 
of  the  world  have  relaxed,  and  the  work  of  redeeming  Africa 
has  seemed  about  to  be  abandoned;  over  and  over  a^ain  the 
land  which  gave  a  birthplace  to  the  Star  of'  Kmpiiv,  and  a 
nursery  to  Israel,  has  seemed  about  to  be  reeognixcd  a>  the 
predestined  dominion  ot'  absolute  ignorance  and  .-in.  I>ut  it 
was  impossible:  light  had  received  its  commission,  the  world 
had  been  given  to  Christ.  Africa  could  not  be  forgotten. 
Science  could  not  abandon  a  continent,  Christianitv  could  not 
abandon  one  hundred  million  soul-.  Again  and  aain  the 


OS2  NKU'    LIFE    IMPAKTED. 

Uitlled  nation-  renewed  their  efl'orts.  Footholds  were,  gained 
here  and  then-.  }>ut  the  little  sett  lenient."  were  like  »-and!e- 
which  men  -ometimt  •-,  standing  in  their  doors,  hold  agaiiM  the 
ni_dit.  Tin-  rav-  did  not  reach  far,  they  could  not  atl'i-ct  Africa 
inat'-riallv  or  an-wer  tin-  OjUe>tion-  that  were  a-ked  alioiit  it. 
The  heart-  of  men  needed  encouragement.  The  recent  -uc- 
ee--e>  ,,f  explorers  have  U-en  haile<l  with  as  inneh  jov  a-  won- 
der. A  ii.-w  life  ha-  In-en  imparted  to  cotninereial,  scientific, 
philanthropic  and  Christian  enterprises;  the  reprc-entativc- 
IP}'  i!n-e  various  intere-ts  have  U^'n  grand,  if  involnntarv  allie*. 
i;iar-ha!le«l  l>v  a  >nperior  providence  in  th<-  work  aeeoiiipli.-lu  d, 
and  th<-  future  assigns  them  (-a<-h  a  ta.-k  which  pn»mi>e>  rieh 
n-\\ard-.  I/ivinp«tone  from  the  south  and  ea-t,  I>al\er  and 
S-hweinfnrtli  t'rom  the  north,  and  I  >u  ('haillu  iroin  the  \\c>t, 
have  at  la-t  -tireeeded  in  letting  the  litrht  in  iijioii  the  heart  of 
f!i«-  eontinent  ;  and  revelations  have  Ix-en  made  which  intensify 
popular  intei'i -t  in  all  that  p'-rtain.-  to  it. 

It  i-  ditli-'iilt  to  determine  the  iitinmereia]  importance  of 
eouiitrii-  -o  tlniroii_rhlv  niulevelojK-d  and  ox-cupied  \<\  people  in 
th«-  rnd'-t  liarl<ari-m.  The  utili/ation  of  the  latent  lonv-  of 
t  lie  continent  nni-t  inevitably  Ix-  the  work  of  generations,  and 
it  imi-t  IK- attended  \\ith  greater  diiliciiltv,  l»e<-au-e  it>  climate, 
il-  inhal'itant-,  and  it-  hi-tory  are  alike  repnl-ive  to  iho-e  races 
which  -•••in  to  have  I.eeii  commi.->ioned  isjMM-ially  a-  leader-  in 
all  the  indn.-tries  and  arts  of  ei vili/at ion.  l>ut  the  world  can- 
not all'-rd  to  throw  awav  million-  ol'  -<juarc  mile-  of  f-rtile  -oil 
and  va-t  -tore-  of  mineral  wealth.  The  intere.-t-  of  men  \\ill 
j.aTi-..:ii/.'  At'rica,  it-  o\vn  trea-ure-  will  |>revent  it-  nrijleet. 
'I  ii.  <!i!li'-nli\-  of'  acee--  to  the  interior  \\i!l  ^reatlv  retard  the 
i:i- a-ui'"'-  for  improvement,  I'Ut  the  imjiortanee  of  tin  inland 
•  •oiitiirv  tiriy  -oon  1,.-  fdt  to  ju-tif\  -udi  expenditure-,  a-  mav 
r«  iiiov  tii«--e  dit!icultie>,  and  KriiiL'  :il!  part.-  of  ihe  coiitincnl 
,-.  ;•  I, in  •  :i-\  .-p-i-.  --  IP  ifn  1  \\>-  -i-a. 

Tlii-  tun.  •-.<.:(-  \-.  li.  ii  the  \vork  lor  Africa  -cemtd  a  -trictly 
!..  ;i.  \.-l -1,1  i. in-;  Imt  tin-  time  ha-  conn-  when  even  the  mo-t 
i  .  •  .  :  f  i !  nation-  re.t.^ni/e  it-  importanee.  A-  the  mind  \\an- 
d-  i  -  «.\ .  r  titi-  \-a-t  •  ••  in! in«  nt .  v.  hi'  !i  come-  oiit  urailuallv  K<  l--re 
it  iii  tiaein/  the  -f.  j.-  of'  i. \|. lor- r-,  the  old  impr«>-io||-  al-oiit 
}j,..,.  ;,...  de-olatioii  vani-h.  The  -eorehin/  -and-  of  Sahara 


WOODLAND    FK.VTntKS.  C,*% 

are  thought  of  only  as  a  neighboring  sea,  In-gemmed  with  bcau- 
lil'ul  i.-lands,  while  all  alxiut,  the  various  development*  of  tropical 
life  are  spread  out  in  splendid  contract.  The  wonderful  pa.-turc- 
lands  and  vast  forests,  where  enormous  trees  are  so  tliiekly 
planted  and  wound  and  interlaeed  by  the  huge  creepers  that  not 
a  ray  of  sunlight  eau  ever  ])enetrate  them — the  mountain 
range's  which  traverse  the  scene,  here  and  then-  rearing  their 
perpetual  snow-crown  defiantly,  right  in  the  eye  of  the  -mi,  MS  he 
rides  the  very  ridge  of  his  supremacy — a  wonderful  river  -y— 
tern  and  beautiful  lakes — mav  not,  indeed,  promi-e  a  home  which 
>hould  tempt  Europeans  ov  Americans  awav  from  their  own 
lands;  hut  thev  cannot  fail  to  impress  the  observer  with  the 
magnitude  of  those  latent  forces  with  which  Africa  -land-  ready 
to  contribute  toward  the  accomplishment  of  human  de-tinv. 

The  woodland  features  of  Africa  arc  greatly  diversified,  and 
in  the  sections  traversed  bv  Dr.  Schweinfurth,  and  all  alon^  the. 
table-lands  of  th;>  west,  manv  striking  analogies  have  been 
remarked  between  the  numerous  trees  of  Africa  and  tho-e  which 
adorn  the  hills  and  valleys  of  more  familiar  land-.  "Some  of 
the  trees  at  first  sight  have  a  considerable  likeness  to  the  common 
oak.  Amongst  these  may  be  named  the  Tirmiin'f/'i  and  tie 
butter  tree.  The  fruit  of  the  latter  consists  of  a  globular  oilv 
kernel,  which  looks  something  like  a  horse-chestnut,  is  a.-  large 
as  a  good-si/ed  apricot,  and  is  enveloped  in  a  green  rind.  From 
the  kernels  of  this  widely  known  tree  an  oil  is  expiv<-cd,  which, 
under  the  name  of  'butter  of  (iallam,'  is  a  rceogni/.ed  article 
of  commerce  in  Gambia." 

Far-spread  as  are  the  trees  which  resemble  the  oak.  th"-e 
which  resemble  the  horse-chestnut  arc  quite  as  common.  1  bi- 
plane tree  mav  be  al-o  said  to  be  represented  cquallv  with 
respect  to  its  bark,  its  foliage,  and  the  pattern  of  its  leaves,  by 
the  >'/, -rfii/iit  tn)m  iifnxti.  which  has  established  it-elf  pretty 
generally  throughout  tropical  Africa.  In  the  place  of  willows 
A fric:v  offers  the  Auaphreuium  ;  and  ovci- and  «>vi -r  :iur;i:n  the 
traveller  may  tlincy  that  he  see-  the  graceful  loeii-t  tree.  The 
Parkia  is  another  of  those  impo>ing  tree<  which  are  m.'t  \\  ith  : 
tlie  leaves  of  this  ave  not  unlike  the  I'oincillade  or  1'iain'  •  <y> •;• : 
irs  flowers  are  a  fierv  red  and  hang  in  a  tut't.and 
:).!'  leave  a  bundle  of  pods  a  foot  hi  l-'nu':!:.  i:i  ' 


CS4  TYIM>  OK  vF/;KT.\Tioy. 

found,  eovered  with  a  vellnw  dust  which  the  native  mix  with 
their  Hour. 

Manv  IVJMS  of  vegetation,  however,  alxnind,  to  which  Kuro- 
jx-nn  and  American  travel ICIN  arc  altogether  unamtstoiiu'd. 
And  it  i-  not  onlv  hv  the  exulx-nince  and  di^nitv  of  their  forms 
that  the-e  arc  marked,  hut  -till  more  l>y  the  noveltv  and  gra<v 
with  uhieh  nature  -eem-  to  have  invested  them.  No  Knropean 
pDxluetion  iii  anv  way  represents  the  Anmiin  >'<  itt-'/ulrnxix,  with 
it-  lar^e  hliie-green  leaf,  and  it-  small  fruit,  with  an  aromatic 
ilark-rnl  pulp;  a  Irtiit  which  in  a  modest  tlegriT  *lisplavs  some- 
thing nt'  that  <"ipti\^itiiig  ijuality  which  ha>  exalted  it-  Kindretl 
plant,  the  (.'herinioyer  <>1  Peru,  to  its  high  repute  a-  the  ijueen 
of  fruit-. 

Mm  h  im >re  singular  i-  the  magnificent  eaudelahni-euphorhia, 
which  I'u'luNV-  the  pattern  "fit-  prototype,  the  cadu-  of  mir  ow/ 
euimtrv.  .\--\t  mu-t  l>e  mentione<l  the  varieties  of  tiij-lrees 
\\itli  thi-ir  I- -atherv  leave-.  a:id,  a--ociat«-d  \\ith  them,  those  ehief 
chai'ai  I'-ri-tii--  of  African  vegetation,  tin-  comhreta  and  the  nilii- 
aci-;»-  ;  tamarinds,  with  their  thick  tuhular  eorolla->,  and  -hruliliy 
garden'ue,  dwarf  and  contorted. 

In  Lri'ii' 'i'al  chara. '.;  r  thi-  flora  of  thr-c  northern  and  \\e-tern 
di-tri'-t-  are  alike,  and  thfv  hoa-t  primeval  fore-t-;  which  rival 
the  -|ilrnd"r  of  I'ra/ilian  nature.  In  eomra-t  \\ith  thi-,  the 
Kii-li  liirr-t-  in  the  higher  part.-  of  tropical  Africa,  lu'okrii  l>v 
the -teppe-,  jiri-.-i-nt  iii  iini f  .rm it v,  perhap-,  the  mo-t  exien-ive 
di-t  rii-t  I  hat  roiiM  1-e  pointed  out  in  I  h-1  \\  hole  gedj^raphv  of  v-^e- 
tal:"ii.  K\ tending  a-  it  doe-  iVoin  Senegal  to  tin-  /aml>e-i,  and 
Iroin  Ali\--inia  to  I'.eii'jnela,  tropie;il  Alrn"i  mav  lie  a--<-ried  \<> 
In-  '.\  i;  !i»ui  anv  percept  ihle  alieratinu  in  character  l>ut  that  \\hich 

1-     "!!'    I',  d      I'V    the     dolll.le    a-l-eel      nf    -|eppe     atld      Illl-ll    o||    |||.     n||i< 

hand.  a:,d  pi'initvai  fofe-t-,  in  (lie  Atne|-iean  >eii-eti»n  theoiher. 
<  )n  i !..  \\--t  and  i  a-t  ihi-  i-  illn-!  raled  i'V  l  lie  marked  ilillifeiKT- 
In  i  \'.  •  i  1 1  i  he  (alile  land-  and  t  he  low  cua-i  terrace-  ;  m  (he  cent  n 

|.\     t  lie    d  i  !!•   I'e  II  •  e    !M  t  '.\  ee||    I  he    \\  .  n  n  1  -    i  >!l    1  ||e    |'l  \  '    I'    li.'lllk-    a  lid      the 

I"'.-,  tkr-  !\  itrj  liet  \\eeti  tl,e  ]'  j  v' ,  r  e. ,  u  r-e- .  \\iih  the  -tiiiihern 
jM.rt  i. n  \\e  h:i\e  1..-H  made  familiar  in  following  1  >r.  I.iving- 
-:<>ne  llii'oii-jh  hi-  I'liini.  •, -.  Alii'.i  :-  eeri.iinK  ii"t  the  1.  a-t 
1  ••!•••.%  the  ni"-(  abundant  di-triet-  of  e\en  (.ur  ne\v  \\e-tern 
U"i!'l  in  riHhieiii  lidiher  tree*.  1  ree-  and  -hrul>-  coii-tilute 


MINKUAL    KKSOUWKH.  OK.' 

quite  one- fifth  of  its  entire  production,  and  from  this  vast  store- 
house there  has  been  fur  many  years  but  little  contribution  made 
to  tho  commerce  of  the  world. 

Hut  the  soil  which  produces  such  marvellous  forc-t  wealth  is 
also  remarkably  adapted  to  tin;  most  enlightened  forms  of 
agriculture.  The  cotton  planter  will  find  in  Africa,  in  various 
sections,  his  favorite  growing  wild,  and  exhibiting  a  luxuriance 
and  excellence  of  quality  which  will  rival  that  grown  in  anv 
land.  Indian  corn  is  also  cultivated  with  remarkable  sticcos ; 
also  rice,  manioc,  and  various  other  grains.  ( iiim,  bee-wax, 
palm  oil,  India-rubber,  etc.,  swell  the  li.-t,  while  tobacco,  coH'ee, 
indigo,  sugar-cane,  and  all  the  tropical  fruits  grow  luxuriant Iv. 

The  mineral  resources  are  also  worthy  of  special  attention. 
Gold  is  found  in  various  parts  of  the  continent  ;  the  mo.-t 
promising  of  which  fields  are  probably  those  near  the  junction 
of  the  Limpopo  and  Zambesi  rivers.  JJut  these,  as  an-  all  the 
regions  where  the  world  at  various  times  has  located  the  lon'j;- 
sought  Ophir,  are  entirely  undeveloped,  and  there  is  certainlv 
no  contradiction  yet  furnished  of  the  reported  wealth  of  Africa 
in  this  glittering  treasure.  Coal,  iron,  and  copper,  all  have 
their  place.  Iron  is  manufactured  quite  e.xtensivelv  in  manv 
districts,  and  we  have  seen  the  whole  lake  country  covered  with 
the  rude  forges  of  the  natives.  The  most  notorious  copper 
mines  are  those  of  Hofrat-cl-Xahaho,  which  are  slid  to  be  -itu- 
ated  on  the  southern  frontier  of  Darfoor,  but  about  who-e  exact 
location  there  is  some  dispute  among  the  doctors.  The  copper 
from  these  mines  is  brought  into  market,  either  in  the  .-hapc  of 
clumsily  formed  rings,  full  of  angles,  varying  i"  weight  from 
five  to  liftv  pounds,  or  in  long  oval  cakes  of  imperfect  easting. 
Dr.  Sch wein furt h  obtained  a  specimen  of  this  copper,  which  he 
deposited  in  the  Mineralogical  Museum  at  Iierlin.  This  -peci- 
men  consisted  of  "eopper-pvrite  and  quart/,  with  an  eartliv 
touch  of  malachite,  eommonlv  called  green  carbonate  of  copper, 
but  containing  a  verv  small  quantity  of  the  ival  metal." 

Xo  svstematic  mining  seems  to  be  carried  on  in  the  Ilofrat-ol- 
Xahaho,  and  the  man  from  whom  the  doctor  obtained  \u<  -am- 
ple said  that  the  ore  was  found  lying  like  loose  rubble  in  the 
dry  bed  of  a  khor.  "  It  mav  be  presumed  that  bv  boring  ,^\. 
leries,  or  even  by  hewing  out  quarrio,  a  largtisnpply  of  metal 
40 


j;,Sf,  DIAMOND    FIKI.DS. 

miirht  l»e  obtained  without  any  vast  expenditure  of  time  or 
monev,  lor  even  in  the  present  condition  of  things,  while  the 
>olid  rock  -till  remain-  intact,  the  yield  of  copper  tor  veal's  past 
ha-  been  verv  considerable."  The  Foorian  copper  even  now 
Uikf-  a  prominent  part  in  the  commerce  of  the  entire  Soudan  ; 
it  i-  conveved  across  \Vadai  to  Kano  in  llans-a.  and,  according 
•<t  Uarth,  it  hold-  its  own  in  the  market,  even  a^ain-t  that  im- 
ported from  Tripoli. 

Hut  during  the  last  fe\v  vcars  more  tempting  trea- tires  than 
copper  or  Lrold  even  have  been  attracting  attention  to  Africa. 
The  diamond  fields  of  South  Africa  have  create!  (pntc  a  sensa- 
tion. The-.-  remarkable  fields  are  situated  Let  ween  the  ijtj  and 
•  1"  hit.  S.,  and  'I'l  and  'JS  K.  lon^.,  on  Loth  -ide- ot  the  Yaal 
ri  .'er.  All  the  information  which  has  yet  I  .ecu  Driven  to  the 
w  >r!d  rc-jM-.-tin^  the.-e  field-  ha-  been  of  -o  va^in-  a  nature,  and 
h:i-  come  through  such  unreliable  ehanne!-.  that  thousands  who, 
i:  th'-v  had  known  the  n-al  truth  re-pectin::  the  operation-  there, 
01  could  have  lelt  a.— un-d  of  tin-  reliable  nature  of  the  stories 
which  tht  v  heard,  would  have  IH-CII  loni_r  a-_ro  located  and  at 
v. ork  in  that  beautiful  and  pleasant  region,  are  Mill  incredulous. 
Vet  the  \\ork  <_roe^  on  with  inerea.-iii'_r  importance.  The  hi-lorv 
of  (  'alifornian  and  Australian  mininj  ha-  of  eour-e  Li-.-u  re- 
iM-atcd — a  lew  have  become  rich,  while  manv  have  \»->-\\  j^riev- 
m-lv  di-ap|Miinte<l.  Hut  n-ailv  "uri'tat  -u  c(--  ha-  att«-nded 

A  el!-di|-ected    etl'ort-,    and    tl|e-c    field-     maV    \  «'t      jiroVe     th«-m-elves 

me  of  tin-  mii-t  important  pavnia-ter-  appointed  Ls  (  Jod  in 
Africa  to  reward  the  nation-  tor  their  per.-.-\  crance  m  their 
•;li»!-t-  to  redeem  it  tVoin  darkiM---." 

\\  hat'-vc'T  the  tutiire  mav  re  \  •  al  concern iii'_r  'he  extent  of  the 
mineral    re-ourec-   oj    Africa    or    it-   :!.:ricnlinral    importance,    m 

.'-      p:i-t       Ili-torV,     it      \\  e     e\eept      -!:i\'e-      o|lK',      IVo|-\'      ha-      Le'||      It- 

chiet'  export.  Tho-.-  \a-!  I'M.-!-  ai'e  the  aLod«-  of  immi-n-<» 
herd-  of  elephant-,  \\ho-e  tn-!^-  -iijij>!\'  tin-  important  eom- 
ni''dit\.  1  In.-  trade  ha-,  however.  Ll^-  evervtlun^r  el-«-.  -utl-red 
/reatlv  Lv  that  in  -!a\e-  -<-\ .  r\  !  !iin/.  inde.  d,  IM-I-H  -ec,,nd  to 
tie-  -!av«--trade.  and  it  i-  onlv  uitliin  the  |a-t  fe\v  \--ar-  that 
,mv  portion  ot  the  enii'inent  hi-  !"-n  alloWiil  to  demi  .n-1  rate 
tin-  iniportarief  ot  i'-  legitimate  r- -oiirci-^.  \\ithin  th"-e  tew 
v>-ir-  the  iifo-iM-ntv  on  the  we-;,  ni  <'<:\-\  ha>  L*-en  a.-!oni«h- 


WORKINGS    OF   THK   SI.A  VK-TUA  I>K.  <>7 

ing.  In  1S71  the  commerce  of  tin-  British  posso.-ion-  on  th.,t 
coast  amounted  to  jC2,oo6,(MX),  and  muv  ;it  the  pre-cnt  time 
he  estimated  at  ^'.',,'2^ ),()<)<>  sterling,  and  thi-  is  only  the  -light- 
est hint  of  the  possibilities  that  are  concealed  there. 

But  whatever  the  possibilities  niav  he,  the  world  will  realize 
little  iron)  Africa  while  the  mumbling  sons  of  Mohammed  are 
allowed  to  desolate  the  liiirc.-t  districts  for  the  satisfaction  of 
their  unscrupulous  cupidity.  Those  who  have  read  the  fore- 
going pages  have  become  familiar  with  the  workings  of  the 
slave-trade  in  the  countries  traversed  by  I  >r.  Living-tone. 
Above  the  equator,  in  the  Nile  regions,  it  is  no  better.  The 
efforts  of  Sir  Samuel  Baker,  in  his  recent  expedition,  did  some- 
thing toward  its  suppression.  But  hi-  ctlbrts,  however  effectual, 
reached  only  a  limited  portion  of  the  evil. 

Satisfied  with  having,  to  the  eyes  of  the  world  at  large,  made 
a  clean  sweep  of  the  waters  of  the  Nile,  Sir  Samuel  and  his 
supporters  did  not  perceive,  or  could  not  remedv,  what  was 
going  on  on  either  side  of  the  great  river-highway.  To  any 
one  M'ho  should  now  enter  the  countrv  under  the  impre.->ion 
that  the  slave-trade  on  the  I'pper  Xi!e  was  forever  abolished, 
and  should  subscqtientlv  learn,  bv  contrast,  the  true  condition 
of  the  lands,  a  scene  would  be  presented  that  might  well  remind 
him  of  the  painted  villages  that  were  exhibited  to  Katherine 
IT.,  on  her  tour  through  Southern  llussia. 

The  (lellahbas  who,  either  on  their  own  account  or  as  repre- 
sentatives of  other-,  carry  on  the  .-lave-trade  in  tin.-  di.-trict, 
may  be  divided  into  three  classes: 

1.  The   pettv  dealers,  who,  with  onlv  a  .-ingle  ass  or  bullock 
come  in  Jannarv  and  return  in  March  or  April. 

2.  The  agents   or    partners  of  the   great    -lave   merchant-  in 
Darfoor  and   Kordofan,  who  have  settled   in  the  Seriba-,  nearly 
always  in  the  capacitv  of  Fakes. 

•I.  The  coloni/cd  slave-dealers  who  live  on  their  own  prop- 
erty in  the  I  Minis  of  the  west. 

The  last  of  these  form  the  onlv  da--  who  ever  penetrate 
beyond  the  bounds  of  the  Seriba  district  into  the  negro  coun- 
tries. Thev  nearly  all  direct  their  cour-e  from  the  I>>hm-  in 
Dar  Ferteet  to  the  territories  of  Motio,  the  great  Niam-Niam, 
king  of  the  west,  and  arc  accompanied  by  considerable  band-  of 


PRIVATE   SLAVES. 

armed  men,  whom  they  recruit  for  thi>  purpose  from  the  l>est 
of  their  slave-,  ('ontrarv  to  the  policy  of  the  Khartoum  ivorv- 
Mierchaiit.-,  the  (iellahha-  have  i>v  decree-  supplied  Kin::  Mofm 
witii  -iii  h  a  niimhi  r  ot  tin-arm-,  that  he  i-  m»w  -aid  to  have  at 
hi.-  command  a  lonv  ot  llirti.1  hundred  fullv  etjuipjK^l  warrior-, 
a  formidahle  Ji^htini;  force,  with  which  he  >eriou-lv  threatens 
anv  expedition  ot  the  Khartoomer.-  that  mav  enter  hi-  domin- 
ion-. Hi-  .-tore  of -laves  appear.-  al»olutelv  inexhaii-t ihle  ;  year 
alter  \ear  hi-  terrilorie-  ^o  on  yielding  thou-and-  upon  thoti- 
,-antl-.  which  lie  olitain-  either  from  the  slave  trihc-  that  he  ha- 
Mihjeeted,  or  hv  raids  ornani/ed  airain-t  the -tu  rounding  nation-. 

1  in  demand  for  .-laves  in  the  Seriha-,  -as-  >ir  Samuel 
liaker.  would  alone  -uliice  to  -upport  a  verv  flouri.-hint:  trade. 
Numerically,  the  .Mohammedan  .-ettler-  hear  a  hiiji  ratio  to 
the  native  population,  and  in  ,-ome  of  the  we-tt-rn  tcrritorie-,  a- 
anion^-t  the  Kredv,  (join,  and  Sehre.  thev  are  actually  eon- 
-idetalilv  in  e\ec-.-  of  the  total  iiumlxT  o|'  nativt-,  who  only 
coii-i-t  of  hiarer-  and  a^rieilltimd  lahoret>.  lakeii  one  with 
another,  every  Nuhian  po--e—  <•-  ulxitit  three  -ia\i--;  and  thu-  it 
mav  ea-ilv  he  conceived  that  the  computation  i-  not  too  lunh 
that  place-  the  total  litimher  ot'  privat<-  -lav«  -  in  the  country  at 
heiv..-i-n  tiftv  thoii-and  and  -ixtv  thoii-ainl.  The-e  jirivato 
-la\'-  are  ipiiie  di-tiin-t  from  llio-e  that  are  kept  in  -ton- and 
u-<  d  a-  inei-i  handi-e  ;  tin  v  mav  he  divided  into  lour  categoric-  : 

1 .  l'.o\  -  from  -even  to  ten  \  ear-  of  a^e,  w  ho  are  employed  to 
carrv  -mi-  and  ammunition  ;  and  e\  erv  Nuhian  r-oidlcr  po--«--.-e> 

at    !e.l-(    one   ol'the-e    jll\eni!e   al'II  lo|'-l  M  -a  IVC-. 

'_'.      Tlie  -econd   cla--   i  lie  lllde-   t  1 1C  ^  I'ea  tel'    pa  ft    ot'  the    fill  l-^ToW  II 

nat,\.-  of  tin-  Seriha.-.  \\  ln>  are  porter-  or  ,-oidier-  a-  o.-,  a-i"n 
ma\  i  •  ipi  1 1''  . 

'.'i.  lii>-  third  cla--  ot  private  -!a\v-  i-  irom  tin-  \\omeii  \\h'i 
ai'i  i.«  p:  in  tie-  hmi-'  -  ;  \\h"  an-  <  itln  r  "  lavoi'ite-  or  driiil^e-, 
:*.-  H.'  whim  of  their  ov.  n<  r-  mas  determine,  and  at  IM-.-I  arc 
i:hal!'  !-  jia--ed  from  hand  to  hand  like  dollar-. 

I.     l.a-t   are  tin    -la\e-  e:iip!..\.d  .  \cin-i\'-is    in  hil-handrv. 

Il;,t  P.I--IIIL'  Irom  the  in-!  it  u!  ii  MI  a-  it  •  xi-l-  at  iii>liic  (Midi  r 
UP-  sarii'ii-  pretence-  nt  i.-ii\  i-rnnii  nt,  let  u-  turn  our  alt'  :il;oii 
t.i  t:,--<-  -lasi-  \\\t»  are  re^arde«l  a-  actual  m<  r<  handi-i-,  and 
w!.'  are  diaL'^'d  into  i.-i.-laj'  Iroin  tin  1  pp«  r  Nile  land-, 


IXtl.MATKD    AXXl.'AL    TIIAFFK1.  (W) 

solelv  lor  purpo.-es  nf  profit.  In  order  to  demonstrate  how  im- 
portant at  the  pn-ent  time  is  the  part  taken  l>y  tin-  di-triet  of 
the  (Ja/.elle  in  the  entire  African  slave-trade,  I  will  take  a  brief 
Mirvey  of  the  sourer.-  whieh  all  the  vear  round  -npplv  the  end- 
less succession  of  the  dealers  with  fre.-h  store-  of  living  wares, 
and  whieh,  branching  of]' into  three  great  highways  to  the  north, 
yield  nj»  their  verv  lite-Mood  to  gratifv  the  insatiable  and 
luxurious  demands  of  Kgvpt,  Arabia,  IVr.-ia,  and  A-iatir 
Turkey.  Previous  travellers  have  estimated  the  total  ol'  the 
annual  trailie  in  thL-  immense  region  to  l>e  twenty-five  thou-and, 
but  I  shall  show  bv  a  verv  summarv  reckoning  that  this  i-  far 
too  low  a  computation. 

The  three  currents  fur  the  slave-trade  in  northeast  Africa  ('a 
region  corresponding  to  what  mav  be  geographical Iv  termed 
the  "  Xile  district  ")  are  the  natural  highwavs  of  the  Nile  ami 
the  Red  Sea,  and  the  much  frequented  caravan  road-  that, 
traversing  the  desert-  at  no  great  distance  to  the  \vc.-t  of  thf 
Xile,  find  their  outlet  either  in  Sioiit  or  near  ('airo.  A-  a 
proof  of  how  little  these  roads  even  now  are  known,  I  mav 
mention  that  when,  in  the  summer  of  ls~l,  a  caravan  with  two 
thousand  slaves  arrived  direct  from  \Vadai,  it  caused  i|ijite  a 
sensation  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  pvramids  ofdixeh;  it  was 
supposed  to  have  traversed  a  geographical  terra  incognita,  a:id 
it  divided  and  dispersed  itself  as  mysteriously  as  it  came.  It  i- 
lar  more  diflicult  to  place  the  deserts  under  insj)eetion  than  the 
ocean,  and  this  is  especially  the  ease  in  the  vicinitv  of  a  river. 
where  a  caravan  can  easilv  supplv  itself  with  water  tor  manv 
davs.  The  borders  of  a  desert  are  like  the  coasts  of  an  unnavi- 
gable  ocean.  Tiie  plan,  however,  of  establishing  a  -y-jem  of 
control  along  the  borders  of  the  Xile  vallev,  corre.-ponding  to 
the  eoast-gnard  erui-ers  on  our  >eas,  has  never  \'<  t  been  tried. 
Numerous  -onrcc-  an1  thus  iVee  still  to  pour  their  flood  o{ 
human  life  aero->  these  unguarded  bonier-.  According  to  1  >i\ 
Sehweinfurth,  who  writes  with  a  perspicuity  which  indicates 
accuracy  of  information  on  tiii-  subject,  the  region-  in  which 
l>aker  put  down  the  trade  were  really  one  of  it-  mo-t  unim- 
portant sources.  The  <i'<r/f<i  count!'ie-  -till  -Upplv  the  liKiil.'t- 
of  Matamma  ami  /tvla,  and  Sennear,  \\ith  main  thon~:m.l 
nuallv.  The  JJerta  and  Pinka  eountrie-,  the  Aur"H"  oi'  Ai-v  — 


*  ITS    fcriM'UKSSION. 

r*mi;i,  still  supply  tin-  market.-  of  Kliartouin  an«l  DjiddiL  Ana 
tlif  lion^o  M  ittiM),  ami  I>al>nckur, -till  stipplv  the  np|HT  district 
of  the  l>ahrd-<  ilia/.al.  JJiil  \\e  learn  that  l»v  far  tin-  inoM  im- 
jmrtant  .-oinvc  "t  the  trade  finding  it.-  inillrl  on  the  northea.-t 
is  found  in  tin.-  nc^ro  •-, mi, trio  to  tin-  -outh  of  1  >arfiHir,  whence1 
rj.iHM)  .,r  I.",.((IMI  >i>ul.-  art-  aiintiallv  rxpurdil,  ami  greater 
jniiiiln-rs  .-till  an-  drawn  from  the  r<»uiitrii-.>  U-lnn^iujjj  t<»  the 
Niani-Niaiu  UiiiiT  1'V  n_rht  <>t  i'uiu|iii>t  ;  and  tinallv  an  ini- 
]"irt;uit  >«iiir«f  i.-  luiind  in  tht-  inntiiitains  xuitli  of  Kunloiau, 
\\iii-rc,  al'lrr  hi->  hliMhlv  cnjnjin>t,  .Mdiciiift  Ali,  tin-  i^n-at  n-- 
t'inii'-r  and  u-urpt-r  in  Iv^vpt,  allowin]  kidnappini;  to  !*•  a 
l--_M[iiiiati'  xnin-c  |i.r  the  Matt-  r<  vriim-;  thu>'  hinix-lt*  initiating 
tht  ini'jiiitv  \\hich  IKL-  IM-I-II  pnr-urd  \\ith  ^ndi  Satanii-  cruelties 
l»v  hi~  ]i>ili»\\er>  ever  .-iitce.  Fnun  tiir-r  varimi-  <li-lrict~  tin1 
.ilav« •-  are  i"irri--<l  in  i-aravans  ai-n>->  the  mnntrv  t»  the  dillri'cnl 
iiiai't~,  and  -i-cin->  <»1  cTtirltv  an-  \\  itiif.~-c<l  which  Ix-ir^ar  dc- 
m-ription. 

1  hi-  trade  i^  »\  iniiiicn-c  ini|n>ria!ice  m  ciiniicctmn  \\nli  the 
wurlii'-,  \\orU  in  Africa,  Ix-caii-c  cvci-\  tiling  <•!-.-  i-  in\'<>lvcd  in 
it.  \\  c  have  -ecu  tin-  trade  Uifllini;  the  nnhlot  nii-.-i'innrv 
elli.r:-,  retarding  -i-n-uee  and  cdiiini' n-i-,  and  rntan^linir  the  ti  et 

»\     tlii-     l»ra\'e>|     eXpiul'''!'-.         \\  e     t«-el     ihat     It     I-     II"!    n\erilllhil    :<) 

-.iv,  llial  init  !'.  >r  !  li«'  ditliciilt  ii  -  L.ri'"\\  iiiLr  "HI  "f  tln--ia\e  trade 
alone,  |>aviil  Living-tone  wmdd  have  >ecii  iM-t'ore  hi- d»-ath  in- 

<-ii'-ri-ii'-d  <1-  -ir«'  in  pro-p«  rmi-  nn--i"n  -tation-  m  the  h.-ir!  <>i 
A  trica.  ami  that  In-  \\oiild  have  -ctt  l.-d  li.r.\'er  thc-nat  Nii«- 

'jM'-'  !'  '11. 

\  arioii.-  ih.-orii-,  are  ad\aiic..l  \',<r  it-  -nppfc--.il. n.  \\'hat  the 
tni'-  pniii-v  A  i  II  In-  prov.-d  t"  In-.  "!i!\  tin-  I'triir.-  .  an  di-t«'nnim-. 
Il"'.v  -'mil  anv  p«-!i'-v  mav  !»•  c\p.-.-;.«l  t"  !'i';h_r  -nc.  i--  ean 
hardK  !»•  -iirini-t  'I.  [  In-  .  l:lii.-iilt  \  «.n  tin-  iM-lt-rn  ci.a-t  nia\  lie 
iti'-t  1 1\  t  !i«-  in« -n  -'  'i  -  '\  :ir,  a-  i!  \\  a-  on  |  In-  \\  '--t ,  v.  h'-ii'-\  i  r.  at  lea -I . 

I-  •!!'•     »M  :i\     \\  l!  ll,    Illldi-f     \\  hleh     tin 

Dalian  nt'  /.in/itiar  -..in-  !.•  h..ld  th'-  ri^'ht  of  th>  trade  in  the 
Indian  <  )'i-ati.  That  alon^ih.-  K.<|  S.  a,  \s  inch  -oni>-  \.-ar-  a^o 
\vi-  \<rv  «iin-ii|eral»le,  ha-  l»-«-n  'jnatU  re»lnci-d  ;  thci"  -till 
••\i-r-  a  powerful  pa'rona'_''-  !'-r  it  in  lord- of  K/vpt.  Sir  Sa'. Mid 
I  •  i'  •  r  p«  r-i-t-  in  hi-  l»!  i.  !  t  hat  t  IP  l\  In  div<-  \\  :i-  -inc.  re  in  IIM 
P'  J  •:.  ••;  a:i\:-f.  t"  Im-aK  tin-  trade  up,  alt  IP  itl'di  hcc.iin- 


TIIK    Kri.KK    OF    F.GYIT.  (','.!} 

tinually  witnessed,  even  while  under  commis-ion  from  th  - 
worthy,  transactions  which  it  hardly  >eeined  <-onld  be  without 
his  knowledge  and  approval,  and  although  In-  had  h  .\rdlv 
reached  England  before  one  of'  the  most  notorious  ^.lave-tradi-r-, 
whom  he  had  held  a  prisoner,  was  liberated  ami  appointed  t<- 
positi(»ns  of  honor  and  trn>t,  in  the  >ame  department  which  IP 
Imd  occupied,  lie  mav  he  sincere  lint  In-  i-  weak.  "  It  i-," 
writes  Dr.  Sehweini'nrth,  "commonlv  -nppo-ed  that  the  rni'T 
of  Eirypt  is  a  despot  of  purest  water;  th:-,  however,  i-  a  -jf  a; 
mistake.  In  nianv  respects  the  Egyptian  'government  i-  ex- 
tremely mild;  criminals,  and  otlicials  who  have  been  remi--  in 
their  duty  are  rarely  severely  punished,  and  the  onlv  delimpiem-v 
that  it  will  not  overlook  is  the  refusal  to  pav  taxes  ;  and  <  vei 
here  mattrrs  would  not  be  so  bad,  if  it  were  not  that  the  di-or- 
derly  administration  involves  the  officials  in  making  encroach 
ing  demands.  The  vicerov  has  little  power  over  the  hi^hei 
authorities,  who  manage  to  sneak  behind  the  en-cent  of  Stain 
hold  ;  he  is  no  more  than  a  vicerov,  the  high-sounding  IVr-iai 
title  of  khedive  which  lie  assumes  is  in  realitv  no  more  than  a 
title.  lie  can  only  issue  his  orders,  and  then  all  boats  that  come 
down  the  White  Nile  are  confiscated,  and  in  Khartoum  e-|>c- 
cially,  where  it  is  good  policv  to  make  a  stir  in  the  eye-  of  th  • 
European  residents,  all  kind-  of  repressive  mea-ures  are  pro 
])osed.  In  displaying  their  xeal  in  the  cause,  the  autlmritie- 
often  commit  acts  of  the  greater  injustice,  and  Mohamniedan- 
sometimes  find  their  wives  and  families  sequestrated  a-  .-lav-  -. 
merely  because  thev  happen  to  be  black.  Such  proceeding- 
afford  a  fine  opportunity  for  the  subordinate  oflieials  to  make  a 
harvest  out  of  the  injured  people  bv  extorting  ran>om-mo:i.  y 
and  by  making  other  extortionate  demands.  I  can  my-elt  ln-a;1 
witness  that  sev(M-al  of  mv  servants  were  deprived  of' their  uivi- 
nnd  children  and  put  into  chain-,  and  1  had  to  write  to  the 
minister,  and  accompany  the  people  to  ('am>  myself,  U-lore  1 
could  u;et  justice  done  to  them  and  their  ri-lit-  re-top  d,  ami  ail 
this  was  onlv  flu'  the  j>urpo-c  ot'  throwing  dn-t  in  my  eye-  aip! 
indueinu;  me  to  report  upon  the  wonderful  energy  di-p!ayed 
the  local  ir^vernment  in  Khartoum.  I>nt  meantim'-  the  eara- 
vans  find  their  wav  just  tiie  same  as  ever  through  I>arf>or  and 
Kordofan  to  Donu'ola  and  Si(>nt  ami  still  thev  are  brought  irom 


CU2  T1IK   cot'NTKY    PAUALYXKD. 

Abv— mia  thron-h  (lallabat  to  the  Red  Se:.,  ami  no  one  .sees 
tlu'iu  but  tin-  traveller.  In  Konlofan,  where  there  is  a  resident 
K_r\'ptian  (iovcrnor,  the  trade  is  truly  enormous,  and  there  is 
now  a-  well  the  Have-trade  from  Dartbor.  Siout,  the  eoininon 
termination  «»t'  the  roads,  i<  the  only  place  where  thi-  trade  can 
be  «-iit  otV,  and  that  could  only  be  eH'ectcd  bv  the  heaviest  saeri- 
;j.-e-  for  the  •  •omineree  of  K^vpt.  Tin*  coiupiot  of  J)arfo<>r  by 
::ie  K'^vptians.  would  consequently  U-  a  jjrcat  step  in  advamv." 
Whether  official-  are  -inccre  or  insincere,  the  continent  is  still 
li-iii^  robbed  ot' it.-  jMtpulation,  and  those  who  do  not  become  its 
vi'-tim-  are  de^radetl  bv  the.  pre-^'iiee  of  the  traffic.  The  whole 
iininirv  i-  |>aralv/ed  bv  the  eurse  which  it  carries. 

Ihe  apathetic  Turks  and  Arabs  recojjiii/o  no  evil  in  their 
trade.  \\'hat  if  (ittv  thotisaiul  ><>nls  do  gn  into  bondage  yearly, 
"  who  are  thev'.'"  I>nt  the  time  ha.-  come  when  the  ,'a-l  con- 
tinent <"in  be  no  longer  disjM-nsed  with:  it  mn.-t  take  its  share 
in  the  commerce  of  the  world,  and  thi-  can  never  be  until  the 
slave-tra<le  i--  put  down  entirely  and  tin-ever. 

It  interferes  with  legitimate  commerce,  desolate-  the  finest 
di-tricts.  cultivates  the  uuholitsl  pa.-»sions,  and  <-a~t-  a  uloomv 
••had'iw  on  all  the  land.  It  liar-  the  pile-  a-ain-t  M-ienee 
and  contents  the  approach  i.f  (  'hri-t ianitv.  Africa  i-nmot  ri-e 
until  thi-  evil  i-  removed.  Whatever  nica-mv-  are  u-ed  lor 
it-  -uppre--ion,  the  demand  inii-t  be  dt-ti'oycd,  there  mu-t 
!>••  no  market.  I)--mand  alwav-  creato  supply:  \\hen  there 
i~  no  market  for  .-lave-  there  will  be  no  slave-yoke.-.  I  he 
trade  i-  an  in-eparable  adjunct  of  the  institution.  The 
•_'i'eat  revoluti.iii  \\hidi  ha-  taken  place  on  the  <|iie~tion  of 
•«l.iverv  -eem-  to  ha\e  a  direct  bearini:  on  Africa.  That 

•  j-i-'-'ioii    doe^    not    -eem    to    be   an    ab-traet    one.      A-    a  matter 
of    fi'-t,    -laverv    i~    alrno-t    a-    <>\-\     a-    the    \\orM    in    whieh    we 
d'A'-!!.      Thej-i'  i-  ii"t  a  p;t_'e.,f  lii-tor\-   whieh    (\»<  -    not    tx-ar  it.-, 
ti'ier-,.  and    not  a  climate  n<.r  a  pe..plf  m  which  it   ha-  nol   mnde 

-  ..,.|    it-,    hold.        1'     ha-    be. 'ti    th'-rouijilv    eii-ral'ted    in    Alrica 
t'r ..in    the    e;i;-!ie-t    time-.      The   iarlie-1    mariner-  found  it  there, 
and     !'>U!id    a    -\-t-in    of    kidnapping     wliH'll    e.\t«-||i|eil     into    the 
l,«  i i-t    ot    the  count rv.       [  he   coinitrie-  which    ma v  chance  to  l>e 
t.[    •• .  1 1  i\  .•  been   t  lie  p.  .--•--•  1 1'-  o  f  -lav  •  -  at  .'Uiv  L' i  \  e  1 1  t  i !  1 1  •  •  a  re  not 

p~:>'.!l-ih|e      f(,I'    the    e\i-te||ee     i,f    the      i  tl-t  i  t  II  t  i«  i|| .          It      beluli:'-    to 


REDEMPTION   OF   AFRICA.  IJU.'J 

the  ages,  has  had  its  place  and  its  mission.  Africa  in  bondage 
luts  been  employed  in  developing  the  resource-  of  tho-r  nations 
vvhicl)  \veiv  to  he  most  eonspicnoiis  in  Diving  tin-  world  :i  fne- 
dom  far  grander  and  more  preeioiis  than  the  freedom  of  the 
hands  1'roin  fetters — a  freedom  of  mind  and  soul  thron<_'h  ,h-ns 
Christ;  freedom  from  the  oppression  of  superstition  and  the 
bondage  of  vice.  We  do  not  need  to  rondeseend  to  the  narrovv- 
mindedness  which  pronounces  on  all  questions  in  tin-  li^ht  of 
a  single  day,  in  order  that  \ve  may  recogni/c  the  hand  of  ( iod 
in  the  revolution  which  brings  the-  mighty  influence  of  tho-e 
very  nations  which  attained  their  strength  hy  mean-  of  -laverv 
to  hear  directly  against  the  slave-trade.  The  time  ha-  eomc 
lor  the  redemption  of  Africa.  Its  service  of  bondage  ha-  heen 
long  and  important:  now  there  is  another  service  for  it.  The 
enslavement  of  a  people  and  their  elevation  are  incompatible. 
Their  elevation  is  ordered  and  their  letters  must  fall  oil'.  There 
may  seem  to  be  difficulties  in  the  wav,  but  (Jod  will  remov* 
them. 

The  noblest  nations  of  the  world  have  come  t<>  the  front  if 
the  great  work.  Thev  have  put  the;/  immense  moral  inllnem* 
against  slaverv.  Xohodv  on^'ht  to  hesitate  to  <lo  so  if  thr- 
redemption  of  Africa  calls  for  it.  These  nations  have  all  held 
slaves,  African  slaves;  thev  do  not  now  speak  against  them- 
selves, thev  speak  tor  Africa.  Ku'vpt  alreadv  feels  their  influ- 
ence. Ki>-vpt  must  abandon  the  institution.  Other  nation-  will 
also  abandon  it.  God  controls  the  nations:  thev  do  hi-  bidding. 
There  will  hardly  be  a  change  in  the  Arab  trader;  he  \\ill  read 
his  Koran  and  curse  the  infidel. 

The  work  will  go  on — whatever  stand-  in  the  way  of  pro- 
gress must  fall,  whatever  resists  the  kingdom  of  ('hri-t  will  be 
fcwept  a\vav.  Men  oun'ht  to  watch  diligently  the  tide  of  events, 
thev  ouidit  to  studv  prayerfullv  the  leadings  of 
There  should  be  no  stubborn  re.-istance  of  dc-tiny. 
verv  few  customs  of'  societv  which  are  founded 
moral  ((iiestions;  they  generally  hold  with  their  < 
man  has  no  business  putting  hi-  selfi-hnc--  in  tin 
general  welfare,  neither  has  he  a  ri-ht  to  make  the 
history  the  basis  of  ah-olute  principle- — the  fact  that  an  in-:itu- 
tion  is  sustained  bv  the  necessities  of  to-<lav  and  i-  manif'.-tlv 


(',04  TICK    NILE   SOl'KCKS. 

owned  of  G<xl  for  ijood,  doVs  not  pvc  it  ncivssarily  a  claim  to 
|i<T|K'tuaI  siip|>ort — does  not  prove  that  there  ni:iv  never  « ome 
:i  time  when  its  overthrow  will  IK-  a  blessing.  We  rrjK-at.  there 
need  to  In-  tin  debate  alxuit  -laverv  in  itself — about  tin*  Scrip- 
tur.il  warrant  to  hold  projM-rtv  in  man.  The  ouestion  is  a 
pmetical  one — can  commerce,  seiciHv,  philanthrope,  and  Chris- 
tianity do  their  work  in  Africa  while  caravan-  are  traversing 
the  cotintrv  in  evi-rv  direction  creating  war-,  spreading  desola- 
tion, inculcating  darkest  sujM-rstitious,  inflaming  the  vicious 
tendencies,  dratr^in^  awav  hundreds  of  thousands  in  chains'.' 
('an  it  IR- '.'  Then,  i-  nut  Africa  worth  inure  to  the  world  and 
•  •I  mure  con>e<|ucnct>  to  our  Lord  ('hri-t  than  t hi-  trade  ?  I.-  it 
not  better  to  -<-t  everv  slave.*  ire<'  than  t«>  leave  a  ci nit incnt  in 
darkness  and  .-in  ?  The  time  ha-  eom«',  ( i<»l  i-  niovii  ^.  and  the 
v/'irk  will  ^o  mi  ;  and  it'  there  are  th'i-e  \\h«  are  touched  bv  it 
wh»)  receive  reluctantly  the  command,  let  them  remember  that 
n  i-  not  a  compromise  of  principle  to  ki-rp  ii|>  with  provideixv 
--that  i-  the  ti"bl«--t  inanhoiid  and  the  true-l  <  'hri-tianitv  which 
subjects  it.-  theories  and  inNTe-t-  to  the  nee- -.--itie-  of  mankind, 
and  the  demands  oi  Christ's  kin^iloin. 

lint  there  an-  other  ^r>-.\\  int'-re-t-  dcmandiiii;  our  notici-. 
I'll'-  '_;i-«-:it  -i -ardi  for  the  Nile  sources  diviile  our  attention  \\iil> 
:he  other  claims  ol  Atri<-a:  llii-  i-  indeed  (],<•  </,  .///,-,,-y,  li!,;if  ,ju,  >- 
!v<yi  -//"/A.  '/-/'/.  I'lii-  wonderful  ri\  -  r  ha-  en-a^t  d  tin- eiirio-itv 
it'm«'n  tVoiii  the  carl ie-t  aLr< -.  1'  ha-  l>«-.'ii  explored  -niitln  r!\ , 
.hroii_di  thirfv  d <  _MV<-.  <,t'  lalitud-,  and  it'  t!i-  -Iriani-  \\lii«-)i 
I  >r.  Living-tone  |ollowe<l  \\itli  -r.  much  eiithu-ia-m  should 
prove  to  Ix-  jili-nti'-d  \\  ith  it,  it  \\  ill  ha\  ••  !>'•'  n  (i  ill  I  id  t»  c\t-  nd 
-"iitli«ri\  in"!-.-  than  tortv  d«--i-i'i-.  II<>\\,\rr  th.it  IIMV  !>••,  tin- 
-olntioii  nt  the  problem  h'  -  n«\\  111  a  <-.iiu|i;u'ai  i  Vi  !\  -mall  an  a  ; 

t!f     lak-  -   o|     r.aK'-r,     Sp.-k...   :md      LivillLr-Iolie    -.  .  I,i     !-,     li.,M     lli,- 

lou'_r--oU'jht  an-\\  i  r  l»-t  \\  •  ••!)  i  hi-iii.  [ial\«  r  \  i-iti-d  all  t  h<-  A  I >\  -  - 
in  i  i.i  1 1  ( ni 'i  i  tarn-,  m< 'hiding  i  li«-  'ji  •  ai  I  Il'ii-  N  i  .•  ,  \\  h.<  li  had  1 «  •  n 

t  v.i'  >  .1   t..  :! irce  bv   I  hi-  «•••!• 'bra!  •  d     l'.ni.-i-.  and  di-rov*  r<  d    hi- 

A  .!••:!  \  \  a  i ;  /  a  -  >  •  1 1 1  <  •  \  >  a  r  -  :  i  '  i  • .  a  1 1  d  :  i  n  1 1  <  <  1 1 1 1  •  •  d  1 1 1  -  d  i  -•  •  >\  i  I' V 
a-  th.-  -olmi'.ii  ••!  Hi.-  -I-,..!  probli  in,  hi-  th- "i^  l»  in-'  that  tin- 

I  . 

'  *  1 1.1 1  -  'I'i.i!  l.il.*--    \  Iln-rl    \    \  :tn/.i  ;in<l   \   i«-l-  >i'i:i  ,\    ^  :i:i  /.i  -  -I  ^|  •   L  f 


THE    NAKKOWKST    MM  IT.  6'J 

July,  August,  and  September.  In  his  latest  work,  "  Ismailia/' 
he  gives  an  account  of  yet  more  thorough  exploration  of  the* 
main  stream,  in  which  he  carried  a  steamer  as  high  up  a.s  (ion- 
dokoro.  As  the  result  of  this  expedition  he  says:  "  I  have  not 
changed  my  opinions  that  have  already  been  expre>.-ed  in  tin; 
'Albert  N'Yauzu,'  except  that,  from  the  native  testimony,  I 
presume  there  must  be  a  channel  which  connects  the  Tangan- 
yika with  the  Albert  N'Yanza."  This  channel  he  thinks  may 
easily  have  escaped  the  notice  of  Dr.  Livingstone  and  Mr. 
Stanley  when  skirting  the  reedy  northern  shores  of  Tanganyika 
lake.  The  Victoria  N'Yan/a  is  understood  to  be  connected  with 
the  Albert  N'Yan/a  by  Speke's  "  White  Nile."  And  around 
these  two  lakes,  possibly  including  the  Tanganyika,  Sir  Samuel 
draws  his  line,  circumscribing  the  Nile  basin.  Dr.  Living- 
stone held  his  theory,  concerning  the  Lualaba,  more  mode.-tly, 
and  perhaps  justly  so.  Dr.  Schwcinfurth,  who,  as  well  as  Baker, 
was  a  cotemporary  of  Dr.  Livingstone  during  those  vears  in 
\vhich  he  was  engaged  about  this  problem,  agrees  with  Baker  in 
declaring  the  very  decided  improbability  of  the  Lualaba  bcin^1 
at  all  connected  with  the  Nile.  The  search  has  however  been 
brought  within  the  narrowest  limit,  and  the  glory  of  the  great 
discovery  lies,  without  a  doubt,  between  these  lew  men,  to  be 
borne  off  in  part  by  the  man  who  may  come  in  between  them 
and  settle  the  dispute. 

This  wonderful  river,  the  patron  of  Kgypt  in  her  davs  of 
power  and  splendor,  may  yet  become  the  channel  along  which 
the  civilization  long  since  departed  from  its  famous  delta  may 
penetrate  the  very  heart  of  the  continent.  The  Xi^er,  the  Nile, 
and  the  Zambesi,  barred  as  they  may  be  by  cataract.-,  present  i\« 
insuperable  obstacles  ;  and  the  interior  presents  a  lake  and  rive.i 
system  which,  with  some  imperfections,  still  offers  the  greatest 
encouragement  to  commerce. 

But  there  is  a  question  of  greater  importance  than  all  el-e. 
The  noblest  of  all  the  travellers,  while  he  was  journeviii'j- toward 
Bangweolo  the  last  time,  wrote,  "The  di-eoverv  <>f  the  tnit» 
source  ;  th  Nile  is  nothing  to  me.  except  a-  it  mav  be  turned 
to  the  advantage  of  Christian  mi— ion-."  In  all  hi-  travel>  he 
retained  the  spirit,  the  habits  ami  aim-,  with  which  he  .-mere,! 
his  work  among  the  Bakwains.  The  mi  — ionarv  -j>ir:t  ha-  ci.n- 


096  MISSIONARY    EFFORTS. 

tribute*!  very  greatly  to  the  success  of  all  those  great  enterprises 
which  have  engaged  the  minds  of  men.  Christianity  hits  been 
the  real,  though  sometimes  nnrtvojfnized,  champion  of  humanity 
in  all  it-  rxjM-riencxrs.  A  distinguished  author,  in  connection 
with  tin-  -uppre— jon  of  the  slave-trade,  has  ventured  the  ax-cr- 
tiou  that  "  Religious  in-iitutions  have  etl'eeted  little  or  nothing 
iu  the  <~au-e  of  humanity."  1'o-v-iblv  he  may  have  di-tingui.-lud 
::i  hi-  own  mind  between  the  organization,  as  .-m-h,  and  the 
indiN  i'hial  reprexMiting  in  hi-  lift-  the  spirit  presumed  to  IK-  iii- 
eorjM)nitctl  in  the  organi/ation.  Hut  the  statement  .-uvors  much 
of'  the  disjMisitiou  to  d'  tract  from  the  glorv  of  Christianity 
which  inheres  with  human  nature.  This  writer  could  .-urclv 
not  ha  %•••  Keen  igti'irant  of  the  tremendous  infliiniee  Ix-iui;  excrte«l 
hv  I  >r.  Livin^r-i'  'iie.  at  the  verv  time  of  his  writinir,  airain.-t  the 
i<lentical  evil  <»('  which  In-  w:is  -|M-akiiii^;  an«l  he  could  hardly 
have  l»«'.-!i  ignorant  of  tlf  fact  that  the  ivli^ion  of  .Jons  ( 'hri-t 
wa.-  the  ruling  power  in  In-  heart  ;  and  lie  ought  to  have  known 
a l-o  that  in  coming  to  Africa  he  did  the  bidding  of  a  religious 
iu-titiition.  Ind-cd  it  mav  Ix:  confidently  asserted  that  ('hri>ti- 
auitVj  more  than  anvihing  el-«-,  i-  moving  the  mightv  Jorcc- 
\\liii-li  are  to  dclivr  that  lon^  degraded  laml  Irom  it- chain- 
and  ignorance.  \\here  i-  the  simple  -crvant  of'  -cieiice  or 
go\  i-rniiK  nt  \\h"  ha-  laid  hi-  hi<-  entirely  and  al).-olutdv  on  the 
altar  \'»r  Africa  '.' 

And  ( 'hri-tiaiiiiy  will  not  fiil  to  take  advantage  of  the  pro- 
gr«---.  J  li-  \\«-(<  rn  and  MHitht  i'n  con-t-  havi-  U-.-n  the  -«-i  ne  of 
V.T\  -iici-i --ful  iii:--i«.nar\-  elll.rt-  in  the  pa-t  ;  and  alivadv  there 
are  si-ttii-nieiit.-  l»  in_r  made  ;it  dilll  rent  point.-  in  the  interior  .-o 
rccentlv  expliin  d.  <  >n  tin-  Nile  lliej-e  havi-  IM-I-II  mi-fortiipe-.  a- 
tl.'iv  \\ere  on  the  /:imli«  -i  and  the  Shire,  lint  e\.  ii  Sir  >amnt  1 
I.ai-.er,  \\iio  e«  in  Id  not  emhraee  the  ini--ionarv  \\ork  in  hi- 
theorii-  l"r  t he  elevation  o)  A  !rn  a,  pr«M-laitns  in  hi-  recent  \\  "i  k 
tin'  a.--uraiiee  that  tli'  re  v\dl  ji"\\  !•<•  no  d.lli-  ultv  on  the  I  pper 
Nile,  nothing  t"  int'-rl' re  \\iiii  them.  Varioii-  nation-  arc 

re|,f   -•   lit-  d       III       the      -.«•!•   Hi-      \\hieh      are      e|j_'a^itl       111      till-    gIMid 

•.\..ii,.  Amoii'_'  them  ai!  I  >r.  Living-tone  \\a-  pl<  a-<  d  to  -av 
that  "American^  make  -np>  ri->r  nn--i»nai  i' -.  '  \\  <•  ha\~e  m- 
d' •  d  noli';.-  r>  pr- -  iitat  i'.  -  -  tin  re  and  in  other  land-,  and  llnir 
rewarded.  And  u  •  \\iil  watcli  ca-jerlv  the 


A    rOKDIAI,    WELCOME    TO    MISSION  A  KI1LS.  I','.,' 

path  which  Dr.  Livingstone  has  made  into  the  heart  of  the 
darkness,  and  hail  with  joy  the  fires  which  one  aiu-r  one  will  !>«• 
kindled  there.  The  world  will  never  be  al>le  to  estimate  tin- 
work  of  Hr.  Livingstone.  That  work  did  not  consist  alone  in 
traversing  unknown  regions  :  he  has  introduced  the  Kngli.-h 
name  and  manners  to  the  Africans,  and  he  hits  laid  tin-  African 
character  so  clearly  before  us,  that  those  who  are  moved 
to  labor  there  for  Christ  will  have  not  onlv  a  guide-book  to  the 
heart  of  a  continent,  but  a  guide-book  to  the  hearts  of  the 
heathen  who  dwell  there.  The  dilliculties  have  been  largely 
removed  by  his  powerful  influence  ;  a  cordial  welcome  is  pro- 
claimed from  the  central  tribes  to  all  missionaries  of  the  gospel. 
The  importance  of  the  work  of  Dr.  Livingstone  to  mi--ions  can 
never  be  estimated  ;  and  already  settlements  are  springing  up  in 
his  track.  Where  missionaries  have  been  able  to  hold  their 
positions  in  Africa  their  work  has  always  been  encouraging; 
when  they  are  in  possession  of  healthful  homes,  and  (surrounded 
by  tribes  uncorrupted  by  the  influences  which  exist  about  all 
the  coast  settlements,  there  is  reason  to  anticipate  still  more 
encouraging  returns.  There  can  be  no  (juc.-tion  about  the 
adaptation  of  our  religion  to  the  wants  and  capacities  of  even 
the  most  degraded.  There  is  no  poor  negro  in  all  Africa  on 
whose  benighted  soul  the  light  of  the  Cross  mav  nut  shine  with 
all  its  quickening  and  transforming  eflicieney. 


H  E( : EXT    DISC  'OYERIES. 


CII  A  I'TK  k    XXXVI  I. 

i;i:<  T.NT   KXPI.OKKUS. 

duly  wnrkiiu  i.Mt  I.i -.in  „•-(.,•,.••-.  Th.- T;.-  !:, -tui'i  ..f  I.i.  -iit.-nimt  < 'am.-r.m,  p..  N  , 
tn  Pn.-!:ii.'l  (.r.ni'l  <>\.iii..n  -.-ivfii  l.iin  A'-'-"iii!t  "I  lii-  r\]'«'.|iii..n  in  Af- 
r;.-.i  MI-.-'S  |.iviii-.'-t«.:n-'s  P...-ly«>n  its  «.n|  .|.iiirin-y  I  |i-nif«  aril-  (irr:it  iMs. 
...\.-iy  in.i-1.-  l.v  hit-tit.  -11.1111  (  ';iiii'-n>!i  "lutlit  I"  l..ik<-  Tali  j.ut\  IK;I  Alt.ni.i.i 
i.;>  l|...'i;.-  '1  >P..  -  N.irr.m  |.-,-.i|..-  I  >IM  •-.-.  .-i  y  ..!"  -\  -1.  in  ..|"  \\'.il.  r  <  ..niii.ii  :ii- 
r:iti'.!i  ')|..iiMi.-  lip  tin  <  '••ntii..  lit  fr"in  K.f-1  to  \\i-t  \\'i.|iiii-rMil  Miii.-r.il 
W«:t!iii  i  '..i!  :ci-l  lr..n  \l.iiii'l.ini  I'uiiin-  I  >r\  i-l<i|.iin-ni  "1  A  !i  ca  lli«'  »n  ly 
ti,,|.i-  t-.r  -ii('j'H-ssiiiir  >l;i\'>--  I  r.ulr. 

Till:  lit'--  "f  Livin-j-l'Mu'  would  imt  !•••  ciiniplrtc  \\ithoiit  .-H:D.' 
acru  int  of  til--  <!!-<•<  >vi  ri'--.  :iiii]  i-vjiliinitiotis  \\hic-h  have  IM-I-II 
1 1 1. !«!'-,  -in-  •<•  lii-  ili-.itli,  liv  -ii'-li  di-t  iu-_Mi;-!n  <]  tnivi'lh  r>  :is  ( !«ir^ 

il-ili.  <i'--l,  Li'-llli'lillllt  (  ':itil'  M  Hi,  I!.  N.,  Illi'l  l;i-t.  lillt  li\-  no 
in-'MM'  tin-  l'-:i-»t,  tin-  l»n;r  liiilil'  n  :i!nl  :i!nn>~t  •!<  -|  >:iip  •  I  "!'  In-i'.i 
-.:'  i-i|ii:iti>ri:i!  exploration,  St:ml.-v.  Tin-  liiM^nititdi-  ainl  tip- 
V:I:IP-  "i'tli'-  I.-il..  •!•-  "t'tli'--  in- n  an-  n»t  tn  !•••  li_'litlv  i-t  iinat' d, 
in  i-niU'-ll  a-  t!i«-v  i-i'-ar  up  :m>l  i-li|i'i"l:tl«'  niaiiv  ni\  -t> -rii--  ami 
•  !  :li'-u!t  (irnlili  in-,  \\  Ii;..-li  l.atll.'l  all  t  IK-  -  ••:•  n!  ill'-  r-  -..iir«-,-  ami 
ilif-  !!•'•!  '.('  tli«-  'i'.]  pi •.!:•  '  I'-  "I"  \  (Vi'-aii  ili-i-tiVi-rv,  -n.-li  a-  <  'a|«- 
I  iin-  I'.nrt<  in,  S|>.  i,r.  (  ii  an' .  Sir  Sumi'  I  I  i.il.i  r,  an- 1  '  li>  lain'  n!'  «l 
l.;\ -in.'-t.iiif,  :ilt||..u_'li  t..  tic  in.  aii'l  im.n-  • -ji«-«-i:illv  Jn  (In-  la-t 
:  !•  :.'i"!i'  -I.  tli'\-  \\>\<-  lai'j'  !\  ::i'l.  lit.'.l  i  <r  \alual«l.  i-liart-, 
;••  i  - .  nil-  r\'at  ion-  aii'l  "llf  r  '•!•  w«.  \\  itliuiit  \\  lii--li  t  li'-v  \\-iiild 


RKTUKX    OF    I.IKt  TKNANT   <  A  MfMJON*.  Cf*'.) 

never,  in  all  human  prolmhility,  have  achieved   their  pr< -cut 
glorious  success. 

In  giving,  therefore,  in  these  concluding  chapters,  a  brief 
hut  sueeinet  account  of  what  each  of  tin-  travellers,  who  are  at 
present  so  prominently  known  in  connection  with  African  ex- 
plorations, has  done  towards  contributing  to  geographical 
Kcienee,  we  feel  we  are  but  drawing  to  a  more  fittiir_r  clo-e  th" 
life  and  labors  of  the  threat  traveller,  Livingstone,  forasmuch 
as  they  were  all  only  following  up  and  working  out  to  a  more 
successful  issue  the  theories  and  conjectures  advanced  bv  him, 
and  which  his  untimely  death  alone  prevented  himself  from 
accomplishing. 

With  this  view  we  give  in  the  present  chapter  a  short  descrip- 
tion of  the  recent  explorations  of  Lieutenant  Cameron,  of  the 
British  Royal  Navy,  who  was  sent  out  by  the  Royal  Geographi- 
cal Society  of  Kngland  lor  the  purpose  of  a.-certainiug  the  fate 
of  Livingstone,  which  was  at  that  time  a  matter  of  grave  un- 
certainty. 

Lieutenant  Cameron  has  but  recent Iv  returned  to  England,  after 
an  absence  of  about  three  vears  and  a  half,  and  the  results  of 
his  observations  and  journevings  an1  held  in  .-uch  liiu'h  estima- 
tion, that  he  has  been  everywhere  received  with  the  most 
enthusiastic  and  cordial  welcome,  on  his  sale  return  from  a 
continent  which  has  proved  fatal  to  so  manv  explorer-.  lie 
reached  Liverpool  early  in  last  April,  by  the  Briti.-h  and  African 
Steam  Navigation  Company's  steamer  "  Congo,''  and  the  fact 
of  his  being  on  board  having  been  telegraphed  from  Madeira, 
a  public  reception  was  accorded  him  in  the  town  hall,  pre- 
sided over  by  the  Mayor  of  Liverpool,  at  which  a  number  of  verv 
distinguished  and  noble  personages  were  piv-t  nt.  After  leaving 
Liverpool,  his  further  progress  through  Knu'land  to  hi-  native 
town  was  one  continued  ovation,  the  Puke  of  Edinburgh,  Sir 
Jlenrv  Rawlinson,  President  of  the  Roval  Geographical  Sorictv, 
and  others  taking  part  and  bearing  te-timonv  to  the  hiLrlilv  im- 
portant  services  rendered  by  Lieutenant  Cameron,  not  al<>ne  to 
the  cause  of  Geographv,  but  also  to  Science,  Commerce  and 
Philanthropy. 

As  we  have  already  said,  Lieutenant  Cameron  wa.-  -eiit  out. 
originally,  by  the  Royal  Geographical  Soeietv.  for  th.-  purpo.-c 


7UU  rilUTMNAVir.ATlON    OF    LAK1!    TA  N<i  AN  YIK.V. 

of  di-ci»v«-riti'_r  what  lia'l  Ixvoinc  of  Livingstone,  a  question 
which  was  at  that  time  a^itatin^  tfic  whole  civili/ed  world. 
Cameron  p-ached  the  capital  of  I'nyanzemlK'  on  this  iinjx»rtant 
mi--ioii,  on  An^n-t  ">th,  ls7o,  jn-t  in  time,  a  clay  or  two  after 
hi-  arrival,  to  meet  the  dead  liodv  of  the  ^n  at  and  i;ood  man, 
tor  whom  he  \va-  in  waivh,  on  its  nielaneholv  journev  home- 
ward-. He  -cut  'Hi  the  remain-  in  charge  of  Dillon  and  Mnr- 
pliv.  and  determined  to  -ct  <int  on  an  independent  exjx-dition  of 
hi-  own,  t"  verilV  and  carrv  on,  so  far  as  lav  in  hi-  jxtwer.  the 
work  -o  nolitv  'H'-J:IM  !>\-  Living-tone. 

A-1'  -ordin^lv,  li>-  pn-hed  on  to  I'jiji,  leaving  on  Septetul>er 
'11.  ls7-'5,  hi-  t_M'eat  aim  lH.lin«j  the  diseoverv  of  the  outlet  of 
I^ike  Tanganyika,  wliieli  Livingstone  hail  failed  to  find.  lie 
rearlied  I  _r:ind:i  in  the  middle  of  I  Jeeeinlwr.  lnit  l)ein^  d<  tainetl 
thk-re  1>\-  a  elii.-f  who  \\mild  imt  let  him  l--ave  until  the  iN^innin^ 
of  the  following  niotitii,  he  iliil  n<.t  reach  the  Ixmndaries  of 
I  'iiv.iml»  /i  proper  mini  th--  oih  of  January,  and  at  I'-jirja 
ra.'ie-  oji  I>riilon'-  ront'-.  H.-  !'.  .mid  a  emnjiaralivelv  ea-v  route 
north  of  tin-  Maln-jara/i  valKv,  hv  \\hich  h--  >neeeeded  in 
reaching  Lake  Taiiiranvika.  l-'i-'>m  I  j:;i.  he  made  a  \'<rv  care- 
ful eireitmnavii^atioii  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  and  (oiind  n<>  !e-- 
than  nin-  tv--i.\  river-  r:inniir_r  into  it,  and  only  one  outlet  on 
th>-  \ve-t  -id--.  Tin-  -fp-am  he  eonehuled  wa-  not  carried  l>v 
the  /;t!i|]ie-.|  into  the  Indian  ocean,  nor  1>\  the  Xile  into  the 
Mi-diti-rranean  ,-ea,  l"it  l.\-  the  Lnalalia  into  the  ('UII^D.  and 

tlienee    into    the    .\  I  lailt  1C. 

Tin-  importance  of  the  di-eo\vrv  made  1>\  Lieutenant  t'am- 
epin,  during  In-  circumnavigation  (,(  Lake  I  an^anvika,  caiin-t 
lie  ,.v  -r-  -'imated.  1  1'  it  d-  ••  -  not  ih  t-  I'liiine  tin-  exact  po-ition 

ot'    til--     -iillp-e-   of    the      Nile,    j|     ej  rct|  m  -cj  l  !  i.  ~     til'-     ha-lll-    "t'    the 

Nile.  in,.  (  ',  ,n_'<>,  the  /amlie  i,  and  the  |lemr.\c  or  Ivi-t.-rn 
Nij-r.  •,',  i'hin  limit-  lh:it  c.-m  now  in-  |ir<»\iniat<-K  d<  lined. 

Lak-  •  Tan_':in\  il.-i  ha-  l.-en  hithei-toa  pn//!'  to  _'••,  ,_MM  ph,--  -. 
Ilnrt'-ii  ::nd  Sp'-l.'.  it-  di-co\-i  r'er-,  concluded  that  it  received 
\\:iN;-  i'pim  the  ii"!:li.  i  a-t.  and  -oiith.  and  t!r.-  ha-  fnrind  out 
!••  !»•  tin-  <  a--.  |',-it  ^ir  S.imii-  !  ll.il^r'-  d;-  -overv  «.t'  a  \  a-t 
•!,,•  ii"!  :h  \ard-  the  \!1,.  rt  N\an/a  -  --lP-tch;!i-_'  to 


la!.' 


v,  !th::i    a    -h-irt     di-tanci     •  f     1  an^-anv  ika.     1---1     to    a    di-cii--io;i 
•  on-  •  rnii:^    the  i  oinpara'  iv--    !,  \-.  1    of  thetni,    lake-,  and    it   wa- 


OI'TLET   TO    I.AKK    TAN<;  \  N  Yl  K  A     IMS*  OVKIli:i>.  ~()\ 

rather  generally  surmised  that  the  Tanganyika  flowed  into  the 
Lake  Nyanxa.  Livingstone  ami  Stanley's  exploration-  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Rnsisi,  the  northern  tributary  ni'  tin-  lake,  <|<  t< -r- 
mining  that  it  flowed  into  the  hike,  led  to  a  su-pen-ioti  of'  the 
controversy  ;  hut  it  was  still  conceived  l»v  sonic  that  in  -«-:t~oii-< 
of  low  water  the  Rusisi  might  How  into  the  lake,  hut  that  in 
times  of  Hood  the  waters  of  Lake  Tanganyika  flowed  into  the 
Albert  Nvan/a,  and,  hv  it,  into  the  Nile. 

This  view  was  rendered  all  the  more  plausible,  a-  no  outlet  had 
been  found  to  the  lake.  Some  who,  from  difference-  of  level, 
did  not  believe  in  its  flowing  into  the  Albert  Nvan/a,  thought 
it  might  find  its  way  to  the  Indian  ocean  by  the  Lufiji  or  Ilufiji 
river;  others,  again,  thought  it  might  have  a  subterranean  eoni- 
munication  with  Livingstone's  Lualaba,  and  the  ( 'ougo. 
Still  others  held  by  the  opinion  that  it  was  an  inner  basin, 
without  any  outlet  at  all. 

The  discovery  of  the  outlet  by  Lieutenant  Cameron  replaec- 
Ptolemv'.s  "Mountains  of  the  Moon,"  where  Speke  originally 
conceived  them  to  be,  between  Lakes  Tanganyika  and  th* 
Albert  Xvanxa,  where  that  gallant  traveller  found  the  Mfumbiro 
mountains  some  ten  thousand  feet  in  elevation  on  the  ea-t. 
where  Livingstone  found  the  Kahogo  mountain-,  and  where 
Sir  Samuel  Baker  saw  what  he  calls  the  '*  IMue  mountain.-," 
from  a  stand-point  on  the  Albert  Nyanxa. 

It  limits  the  basin  of  the  Nile  to  this  central  African  group  d> 
the  south,  to  the  long  range  of  the  Ilimada,  with  it-  snow-clad 
peaks  and  active  volcanoes  on  the  east,  and  to  the  unexplored 
but,  in  all  probability,  high  and  inhabitable  regions  that  lie  be- 
tween the  Congo  and  the  Bonn  we  on  the  we.-t.  It  brimr-  the  ba-in 
i)f  tin;  former  river  into  close  proximity  of  the  I  ndian  .  icean.  and 
establishes  it  as  the  highway  from  the  we<t  into  central  Africa, 
and  as  the  readiest  means  of  traversing  from  ocean  to  ocean. 

To  settle  this  important  question,  Lieutenant  ( 'amenm  under- 
took an  overland  journey  from  Lake  Tanganyika  to  the  Atlantic. 
which  was  accomplished  after  enduring  hardship,  privation-, 
jind  dangers  of'  the  nio-t  severe  description,  and  experiencing 
all  the  vieis-itudcs  of  climate.  Through  all.  hi-  courage  n.  v-  r 
gave  way;  he  was  upheld  by  an  indomitable  pluek  \\hich 
carried  him  through  every  ob-tade.  so  bent  wa-  he  on  ace. >m- 
41 


70-2  ATTAi'KK.n    JJY    IIOSTI1.K   TIM15ES. 

plishin<j,  at  all  ri-k-,  the  <jreat  objects  which  had  Ixn-h  intrusted 
to  him.  \\  e  h:i\v  not  tin-  space  here  to  e;ive  a  detailed  account 
of  thi-  memorable  journey;  snttice  it  to  -ay,  it  was  full  of  the 
devjve-t  intere-t,  and  much  valuable  infonnatioii  was  obtained 
which  we  .-ha I!  pnxred  to  mention.  It  was  not  wanting,  either, 
in  incident  «T  adventure,  a.s  Lieutenant  Cameron,  in  prosecuting 
hi-  pa— aLre  aero--  tin-  continent,  several  times  came  into 
eolli-ion  with  ho-:ilr  triln-s.  While  passing  through  a  dens« 
ton-i.  on  one  o<-ca-ion,  on  hi-  wav  to  lienjjnela,  In-  was  fired 
upon,  and  narrowly  e-caped  with  his  life,  an  arrow  ^lancin^r  oil' 
the  leather  coat  which  he  wore.  As  a  proof  oj'  the  sjood  x-n>e 
and  \\i-e  di-cretion  ol'  this  vounj^  oilieer.  in-tead  of  re<entin<; 
thi>  unprovoked  attack  1»\"  ordering  hi->  men  to  return  the  fire, 
:i~  would  have  Ix-eu  verv  natural  with  nto-t  men  under  similar 
cireninstanei's,  he  cha.-ed  the  man  who  had  -hot  at  him  on  foot, 
and  having  overtaken  him,  trave  him  a  sound  thrashing. 
>(«»n  afterwards  tliev  came  up  to  the  main  l»odv  of  the  partv 
\vh'i  had  attacked  them,  and  alter  a  -hort  palaver,  so  -uccecded 
in  alhivini;  their  ho-tilc  ftvlinijs,  that  the  two  partic-  went  on 
r.i^ether,  continuing  their  jon nicy  on  \vrv  ijM"d  term-.  ( >n 
another  occa-ion,  haviiiLi  had  -oni'-  tn»nlile  \\iih  the  natives  of 
a  village,  thev  went  on  to  the  next,  \\here  thev  were  revived 
in  a  \'er\  unfriendly  manner,  the  m«  n  all  turniiiL:  out  with 
l>o\v-  ;tnd  arro\\'-  a:id  liriirj  at  them.  ( >ne  or  t\\-ci  ,,i  his  men 
!><  inur  liui't,  he  dt  termiiied  on  a  vi'joroii-  attack  on  the  village, 
\\hi--h  he  acei>rdin;jlv  mad'',  Imt  h.-  found  hiin-elf  followed  l>v 
fi-iir  men  "iilv.  the  remainder  havinir  di-«Teetlv  k.-nt  in  the  rear. 
Fortnnatc'v  for  Lieutenant  ( 'ameron  nnd  hi-  small  attacking 
partv,  the  villagers,  a-  ^»«\\  a-  thev  -,,\\  him  coi::inLr.  tied  in  the 

•  •[.[M.-itr  ilirection  ;  -•>  th.  \   e:ipt nritl  tin-  "  ti'\\  n."  luiriicil  all  the 
hul-  thev  d i"l  not  \\  ant  ar.d  !•  -r:  ;:i--d  it   tor  ih<-  occttpat  ion  of  hiin- 
-•!(    and    follower*,  remaining  t !i>  fi    lor  live  dav«.  and  maintain- 
: :IL'  hi-  | »'-it inn  a.rain-t    -•  \  <  i  ' !  ana.  !,-  made  n]" >n  it .      Finding 
if    ;n,p'--;l'l«- to  fo!!,,\\   the  lin-   .•i';li.    I.naiai  a  Iroin  (he  nant  of' 

•  aii'M-,    and     from     th.-    h..-;i!ir,     ..i"    a     native    chief',    ('ameron 
ii\-  [•;_", 1     fVoin      \\aiijN\e     (,,    t|,(.      ..-itliv-ard     to    th,-    eleventh 

atitude,  and  th-  n<  •    -oiitli  •  •  --twar-1  t"  the  Atlantic, 
n!    a!  a  p"int    a    l"!i;  \\a\-  --.nth  "t'  the    month    of  the 


OPKMM;  ri>  OF  \VATKH  (OM.MTNK  .  \TION. 


Tho  results  of  his  journey  and  of  tin?  many  valuable  ob-  r- 
vations  taken  by  him  nwiy  he  no\v  as  briefly  :L-  po—  ibW  -\\n\- 
marizcd. 

Mis  circumnavigation  of  the  great  Lake  Tanganyika,  and  his 
discovery  of  the  outlet  to  the  great  river  Lnalaba,  are  matter- 
of  the  greatest  importance.  Another  very  valuable  point  -ettled, 
according  to  Cameron's  conclusions  and  numeroii-  a.-tronomicul 
observations,  is,  that  as  the  river  Lualaba  is  nearlv  one  thousand 
feet  at  Xyangwe  below  the  level  of  the  Nile  at  Lake  Albert,  th<- 
Lualaba  (or  Lomanre)  cannot  by  any  possibility  In-  the  Nile, 
and  must  he  identical  with  the  Congo  river. 

His  discoveries  also  have  made  known  to  the  world  the 
existence,  in  the  centre  of  the  African  continent,  of  a  sv.-tem  of 
water  communication  between  the  vallev  which  he  followed  and 
the  scene  of  Livingstone's  discoveries,  which  by  the  addition  of 
a  canal  only  thirty  miles  in  length,  would  be  complete  from  the 
Congo  to  Zanzibar,  and  a  water  communication  capable  of  float- 
ing steamboats  of  ample  capacity  between  the  ea-t  and  west 
coasts  of  Afnica,  with  numerous  navigable  ofl-ets  on  either  side. 
Of  course,  these  rivers  will  be  broken  at  times  bv  rapids,  but 
portages  may  be  formed  for  the  present,  and  hereafter-  —  -though 
the  time  may  be  far  distant  yet  —  locks  will  be  formed,  so  that 
there  may  be  an  uninterrupted  -team  communication  from  the 
east  to  the  west  of  the  African  continent,  by  the  Congo  and  Zam- 
besi systems.  Bv  this  means  the  ivorv  trade  will  In  .....  mpletelv 
tapped,  for  bv  the  large  rivers  which  How  into  the  ('OIILTO  (Vom 
the  north,  a  short  distance  from  Xyangwe,  the  country  of 
Uleja  can  be  reached,  to  which  traders  conic  now  three  thou-and 
miles  down  the  Nile  to  trade,  and  from  which  thev  draw  their 
principal  supplies  of  ivory.  Au'aiu,  the  oH-et-  of  the  Tangan- 
yika would  also  carry  off  a  great  portion  of  the  ivorv  trade 
which  is  now  in  the  hands  of  the  Arab-  trading  from  Xan/ibar. 
The  Zambesi  also  would  be  the  medium  of'  obtaining  ivory,  if 
the  communication  was  formed  joining  it  to  th-'  Congo,  :U1,1  M> 
gaining  access  to  the  northern  aflltients.  I'v  thi-  river,  which 
falls  into  the  Congo  from  the  north,  it  will  be  pi.v-ih!e  to  get 
close  up  to  the  sources  of  the  Nile,  the  water-lied  between  the 
Nile  and  the  Coniro  beinir  accessible  bv  a  verv  -hort  route,  in- 


7U4  IVOKY,   XfTMK<;S    AXD    OIL-PALMS    ABl'XDAXT. 

stead  of  the   lon^  route   from  Alexandria,  up  a   river  which  is 
far  from  healthy,  and  which  is  choked  up  hy  ^rass. 

The  river  ( 'on^o  has  rapids  at  Italia,  aU»ut  one  hundred  and 
sixtv  mil<->  al>ovc  its  mouth,  and  Ix-youd  them  the  only  other 
rapid-  that  he  knew  of  are  some  small  one-  a  -hort  way  l»elow 
Nvan^we,  near  where  his  route  crossed  the  ( 'oii^o.  The  river 
( 'oiiu'",  he  think-,  l»y  the  way,  should  hereafter  IK-  called  after 
Living-tone,  for  after  all  it  was  really  that  pvat  traveller  who 
tir-t  discovered  its  >oums. 

In  the  /amhesi  country  there  i.-  a  sy-ti  m  of  Lan-trine  river- 
extending  lor  a  di.-tanee,  which  makes  the  ( 'onuo  one  of  the 
lar^e-t  rivers  in  the  world.  Perhaps  the  Ama/oii  and  the 
Yang-tse-kiang  may,  in  volume,  U-  larger,  luit  certainly  the 
Con«;o  i->  entitled  to  take  the  third  place  amon^  the  rivers  ot 
the  world.  It  ha-  na\  i_ral>le  aillm-nt.-  that  reach  within  two 
hundred  miles  north  of  Lake  Nva— a,  where  at  pre-ent.  in 
ni' -morv  of  Living-lone,  a  colonv  ha-  Keen  formed.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  important  and  valuahlc  re-nlt-  o|  ihe  discoveries  and 
olt-i  Tvation-  made  l>v  Lieutenant  ( 'anieron.  and  more  inti- 
mat'dv  eiiiinei-u-d  with  hi-  conditions  and  tin  ones  on  tin* 
\\at- •r-communicatioii  -Y-t'-m  ju-t  mentioned  a-  lieiii'j  in  his 
opinion  -<i  tea-ihie,  are  the  wonderful  report-  he  ^ives  of  the 
exi-teiicc  of  rich  mineral  wealth  in  the  countries  through  which 

he    pa-  d. 

Ivorv  i-  thi  re  found  in  ^''cat-'r  aliundanec  than  anvwhere 
•  !-•-.  At  Nvaii^we,  ih'-  Aral)-,  trading  ani"ii_'  them-clve-,  e;ave 
llurtv  five  pound-  of  ivorv  I'M-  n;ie  and  a  halt  pound>  of  heads 
or  tl\e  and  a  half  (mimd-  n|  i-n\\irie-,  and  \  •  r\  oflen  a  whole 
tu-L,  irr' -p  •••[  i\'e  ol  -i/'-.  wej^hiny  from  mie  hundred  to  one 
hundred  ami  !ili\  pound-,  :uav  lie  o'otaineil  in  exchange  lor  an 

i»id      eopp'  I      lil'aeeli  |  !  liii-      i-iil|!itl'\      "1       N  \  a  II  _r  \\  e      Llillteliaill 

<  'inn  ion  l><  lieYe-  eonlideiit  !v  eaii  i  ii-  reached  li\  ;  In-  (  '•  in^'o  1 1\  t-r, 

Mid  lii-  lonl.-  for  \\  a  I'll  !<•  !  h-  da\  U  In  II  I  Ic  \'<  \\  i  1 1  l»c  e-laMi-hcd 
ti.-re  a  -v-t'in  <i|  l.!i_'l  -!i  I  radm^--tat  ion-,  in.:  mdv  lor  th'- 
pMi'ha-i  of  i\  in-.  .  luit  I-T  th-  i-i.'h  \  •••_"  lal>l«  pro'hie!-  ..f  the 
'••  m:i'  i  \  ,  \'.  hi<  h  are  aliuo-l  !  ><  \  »\ id  de-enpt  inn.  I  h<-  mil  mi  j 
1 1  •  -  i"  ,ir  a  I  MI!  n  la  m  1\  .  and  t  In  ir  \  ahii  i-  nnkiio\\  n  to  t  he  na- 
ti\.-.  linn  ai<  man\  d;!i«  r-  i.l  kind-  n|  cult-ill;  and  up  th«- 
.  of  t!r  (  'mi  '...  a'  a  le  i  -1,1  -.('  i-.\.  :,l\  -i\  hundn  d  f.  .  t 


GOLD,   SILVKIl,   COAL    AM)    IKON    MINKS.  7^ 

nl>ovo  the  level  of  the  sen,  the  country  is  crowded  with  wil- 
palms,  the  trade  in  which  alone,  leaving  the  question  of  ivory 
altogether  on  one  side,  would  well  repay  any  enterprising  mer- 
chant to  embark  in  it. 

(told  i.s  found  in  Khangwe,  as  also  silver,  hut  -o  far  only  in 
small  quantities, and  Lieutenant  Cameron  came  across  what  will 
prove  a  valuable  deposit  of  tin. 

But  still  more  valnahle  than  all  this  mineral  wealth,  e-pe<y 
ially  to  England,  seeing  that  the  retention  of  her  position  as  one 
of  the  leading  nations  of  the  world  depends  so  largely  on  her 
supplies  of  iron  and  eoal  not  bc'coming  exhausted,  is  the  dis- 
covery reported  by  him  that  the  continent  of  Africa,  long  after 
English  coal  and  iron  are  worked  out,  contains  snllicient  of 
both  to  supply  the  whole  world  for  centuries. 

By  means  of  the  magnificent  system  of  water  communication 
proposed  bv  Lieutenant  Cameron,  these  boundless  store.-  of  a«r- 

1  i  »' 

ricultural  and  mineral  wealth  would  be  developed,  and  when 
their  kind  in  other  parts  of  the  world  are  exhausted,  Africa 
would  provide  new  granaries,  new  coal  mines,  and  new  materials 
for  manufacturers. 

We  must  not  omit  to  allude  to  the  valuable  services  rendered 
to  the  science  of  Geography  bv  Lieutenant  Cameron.  lie  made 
and  brought  home  with  him  a  register  of  observation.-,  extend- 
ing over  twenty  degrees  of  longitude,  amounting  on  the  whole 
to  nearly  five  thousand  in  number,  which  will  serve  a.-  a  mathe- 
matical basis  for  all  future  explorers  in  equatorial  Africa.  To 
show  the  carefulness  and  patient  exact ne.-s  with  which  this  por- 
tion of  his  labors  had  been  performed,  it  is  .-tated  that  to  deter- 
mine the  longitude  of  one  position,  he  sometimes  took  a-  mam- 
as one  hundred  and  thirty  or  one  hundred  and  forty  lunar 
observations. 

The  importance  of  the  results  of  Lieutenant  Cameron's  jonr- 
nevings  ha-  Urn  esteemed  of  such  value  bvtiie  Ivoyal  Geograph- 
ical Society  of  England,  that  their  gold  medal  for  the  v*'ar.  the 
highest  award  they  could  bestow,  ha-  been  presented  t«>  him, 
and  he  takes  rank  among  the  most  siiccc-.-fnl  and  distinguished 
of  African  explorer-.  True,  that  he  ha-  not  done  much  toward- 
solving  the  mvat  problem,  the  my-tery  of  the  -.niiv.-  .it  the 
Nile,  but  the  practical  iv.-ults  ol'  hi-  discoveries  which  will  have 


706  EFFECT    ON    THE   SLAVE-TRADE. 

such  an  iin|Mirtnnt  l>eariiig  upon  Science  and  Commerce,  and  the 
future  development  of  the  resources  of  Afri<-a,  cannot  be  over- 
estimated. The  more  so,  wlu-n  \\c  b«ir  in  mind  that  upon  the 
l;i>t  mentioiKtl  ({iiestion  alone  de|>eiids,  in  a  ijreal  mea^uix1,  the 
extinguishing  of  tliat  foul  blot  upon  the  civilization  of  the  nine- 
tt-«  nth  <-entury,  the  slave  trade  of  that  continent,  with  all  its 
attendant  horrors. 


CHAPTER   XX  X  VFII. 

SIR   SAMUEL    HAKKU'S    KX  1'KI  >ITI<  >N. 

Suppression  of  Slavery — Stupendous  oliMurIrs  <>vrrrom<-     K><-u|x-  from   F'"i»<>n- 
ing — Succeeded  by  Col.  S.  E.  Uordon  -— Inti-re^ini;  liiscmvri*:*  of  M.  i  ;«••.*!. 

IN  order  to  give  any  account  of  the  explorations  and  discov- 
eries of  Messrs.  Gordon  and  Gessi,  it  will  be  necessary  to  ^ive  a 
brief  resume1  of  the  labors  and  expeditions  of  Sir  Samuel  W.  Baker, 
tlie  immediate  j>redeeessor  of  Colonel  S.  K.  Gordon,  of  the  Royal 
Engineers,  who,  in  conjunction  with  M.  Gessi,  is  only  carrying 
on  the  work  so  nobly  begun  by  Sir  Samuel. 

As  an  African  traveller,  Sir  Samuel  .Baker  shares  with  Liv- 
ingstone the  homage  of  popular  hero-worship.  His  dashing 
exploits,  his  genial  nature,  and  his  spirited  and  racy  narratives, 
have  gained  for  him  a  high  place  in  public  regard,  in  his.  own 
country,  for  Englishmen  are  always  proud  of  the  man  who  does 
their  country  honor.  Baker's  dash  is  perhaps  even  more  attrac- 
tive popularly  than  Livingstone's  heroic  devotion  ;  but  we  do 
not,  for  a  moment,  compare  the  results  achieved  bv  these  two 
explorers.  During  more  than  thirty  years  ofttoil  and  hardship, 
Livingstone  laboriously  tilled  in  the  details  of  the  southern 
portion  of  the  map  of  Africa,  which  he  found  a  mere  skeleton. 
and  he  sacrificed  his  noble  Hie  in  endeavoring  to  disjK-1  tin 
darkness  which  then  enshrouded  the  central  portion  of  the  con- 
tinent, a  darkness  which,  thanks  to  his  discoveries,  is  even  now 
being  cleared  away.  His  unassuming  simplicity,  hi.-  varied 
intelligence,  his  indomitable  pluck,  hi-  steady  religion-  purp«-e 
form  a  combination  of  qualities  rarely  found  in  one  man.  By 
universal  consent,  Livingstone  h;is  come  to  be  regarded  a.-  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  traveller-  of  hi.-  own  or  uf  any  other 
age. 

Baker's  explorations  have  been  far  le-.- extensive  than   thu-o 

TuT 


7"S  GSTKNSIKl.i:    OBJ  KIT    OF    TIIK    KXI'KIUTIOX. 

of  Livingstone,  Inn  In-  was  tin-  first  Kuropi-an  who  ever  pene- 
trated tin-  equatorial  region  from  the  north,  or  tit  least  to  p.'t 
so  far  t<»  the  -oiith,  In-  way  of  the  White  Nile,  as  the  Alln-rt 
Nvanza.  lint  tin-  two  explorers  proved  that  the  interior  of 
Africa  is  of  abundant  fertility,  ami  that  if  it  could  In- opened  up, 
great  commercial  advantages  mn-t  necessarily  follow.  To  do 
this  MUtt»fuIly,  and  it' Africa  wa-  ever  to  lw  eivili/ed,  and  the 
African  racv  improved  and  devclojied,  it  was  evident  that,  in 
the  fin-t  place,  the  infamous  traffic  in  slaverv  which  was  the 
ciir-e  of' that  continent  mn-t  IK-  suppressed. 

It  W;LS  with  this  pnrj>o>c,  o-tcnsil»lv  so  at  all  events,  that  the 
exjKilitioM  which  the  Khe«hve  of  l-._rvpt  e(jnippc<l  and  placed 
under  the  command  of  Sir  Samuel  Haker  was  planned.  From  a 
jK-rusal  of  the  exceedingly  interest iii'_r  narrative  which  Sir  Sam- 
uel ha-  written  of  the  roult-  «)f  \\\-  Ia!>or-,  tor  a  period  of' nine 
years,  towanls  the  ai'compli-hineiit  of  tlii-  ^rand  oliject,  we  uro 
led  to  the  conclusion  that  the  suj»prc-.-ion  of  the  slave-trade  was 
of'  a  verv  -eeondarv  inijiortance  in  the  mind  of  the  Ktrvptian 
government,  and  was  onlv  n.-ed  l»v  them  a-  a  pretext  to  cover 
what  to  them  was  of  far  greater  value,  vi/..,  the  comjne.-t  :uid 
annexation  of  an  extensive  dominion. 

Whatever,  however,  mav  have  l»eeii  the  real  eaii-e  which 
ai-tuatcd  the  Kgvptian  irovernmeut  in  ei|nip|iiir^  the  cx|>edition 
and  placing  it  under  Sir  Samuel  Maker,  the  n-ult-  and  achieve- 
ment- were  of'  the  niM-t  !_rratitViiiL.r  and  siicee»ful  nature.  Ho 
wa-  funiishe*!  liv  the  Khedi\e  \\nli  a  firman,  ijiviuj;  him  the 
ni'i-i  exiiii-ive  power-,  and  a  fon'e  wa-  placed  at  his  disposal 
a_rain-t  which  no  eiieiuv  that  he  could  po«-ililv  encounter  in 
tho--  n-jion-  would  have  the  -li-_dite-t  hope  of  re-i-tin^.  Mnt 
tie  natural  difliciiltics  which  inl'-rpo-ed  I H 'tween  him  and  the 
olijei-t  of  hi-  e\|M-dition  wen- of  fearful  magnitude.  Navi-jaiio<i 
al"u:;  ill-  \\  liite  Nil.-  u;i-  \-<  n< li -n ••  I  almo-i  impo— il)le  liv  lloat- 

tai  i'  m,  \\lii'-li  ma<|e    proL'rc--  al- 
ilf  rtittiiti;   "'    a  channel  !      Mut 
(In-  ditliciillii—  of  tin-  ta-k  heforc 
em,   ;ind    (.oinlokoio    ulttinatclv    reaelied, 
through    tlio-.-   dead  I  v   malarioiM    regions 
.^dii'-'d  in-ct   -•  riou.-.  ell'i-i-t.-  upon  th'-  health  of  the  trooji,    and 
jM.in.al-. 


THKIIJ,1X(J    KSCAI'K    FIIO.M    1'OISOMMJ.  ~(f.) 

When  the  real  work  of  the  expedition — tin-  pntiin  •  down  of 
the  traflie  in  slaves — came  to  be  o!ou«-,  -o  much  time  ami  energy 
had  been  expended  in  the  preliminaries,  as  it  were,  that  the 
force  was  greatly  weakened,  and  the  temper  of  the  troop-  not 
improved  ;  and  the  native  chiefs  in  the  neighl>oring  «-oiintries 
were  not  inclined  to  the  cotir-e  which  Sir  Samuel  Maker,  in 
pursuance  of  his  instructions,  proposed  to  adopt.  ( 'on.-cions, 
however,  of  liis  own  strength,  and  knowing  that  he  wa-  acting 
strictlv  in  the  line  of  dutv.  Sir  Samuel  wa.-  not  di-p».ed  ,  ither 
to  tenipori/e  or  to  waste  time  in,  what  he  knew  would  l»e  futile, 
efforts  at  conciliation.  The  consequence  was  that  the  progress 
of  the  expedition  wa<  marked  by  continual  conflicts,  the  hostili- 
ties of  the  natives  being  vigorously  punished  with  slaughter 
and  reprisals. 

One  punishment  in  particular  that  he  inflicted  deserves  men- 
tioning as  being  so  well  deserved,  and  showing  the  peril  which 
nt  all  times  surrounded  this  brave  explorer.  When  he  reached 
the  country  of  I'nvoro,  he  found  that  Kamrasi,  who  was  king 
when  he  had  formerly  visited  it,  was  dead,  and  the  throne  was 
occupied  by  Kabba  Keja,  his  -on,  who  seemed  to  be  a  compound 
of  all  that  is  vile  in  the  African  character.  I  nder  the  pretence 
of  hospitality,  he  attempted  to  poison  Sir  Samuel  and  hi-  whole 
partv,  which  so  aroused  his  indignation,  that  in  retaliation  ho 
burned  Ma-indi,  the  capital,  to  the  ground.  This  action,  how- 
ever well  merited,  complicated  matters  so  that  the  po-ition  of 
Sir  Samuel  Baker's  party  became  exceedingly  desperate,  and 
their  onlv  hope  of  safety  lay  in  retreat.  The  circum.-tanecs  of 
that  retreat  are  amon^  the  mo-t  thrilling  recorded  in  hi-  narra- 
tive, and  invest  their  e.-cape  almo-t  with  the  character  of  a 
miracle.  The  presence  of  Lady  Baker,  who,  alon<;  with  her 
husband,  seemed  to  po-se-<  charmed  lives  and  to  be  proof 
again>t  danger  and  hardships,  give-  to  the  whole  expedition 
that  touch  of  romance  which  makes  the  -torv  -o  piquant  and 
interesting. 

The  task  which  Sir  Samuel  Baker  undertook,  and  to  a  ^n-at 
extent  succeeded  in  accomplUhiiii;,  wa-  ivallv  -tnpend»u-,  and 
the  impression  ot'  it-  magnitude  can  onlv  be  iva!i/>-d  b\-  a  p-  ru-al 
of  the  detail-  of'  its  performance.  To  have  literallv  ent  a  pa— 
sau;e  tor  hi.-  flotilla  thr-'iigh  the  mai'-her-  which  maiulv  '•'•:, -titute 


71O  COLONEL   GORDON    API1HNTKI)    St'CCESSOK. 

the  rountrv  l>etween  Khartoum  and  (iondokoro ;  to  have  con- 
quered ami  annexe*!  an  immense  country  with  a  mere  handful 
of  troop<  ;  and  to  have  organized  a  .-vstem  of  government  which 
great Iv  facilitate  the  ojK-nition-  of  hi-  successor,  demonstrate  the 

|x»ssesMon  of  (pialitie.-  of  a  very  high  order. 

Haker  cannot  U-  -aid  to  have  .-olved  anv  geographical  pn»l>- 
lem  or  -ettled  anv  of  the  di-puted  points  which  then,  as  now, 
occupied  the  minds  of  scientific  men.  He  wa.-,  however,  sati— 
fu-d,  and  with  <;reat  P-a-on,  with  the  laurels  he  had  won.  First 
of  all,  he  had  made  a  grand  jor.rnev  into  the  very  heart  of 
Africa,  and  revealed  a  portion  ot'  that  continent  hitherto  un- 
known to  the  world  ;  and  in  the  second  place,  he  had  laid  the 
foundation  for  a  great  future  in  bringing  a  remote  portion  ot' the 
African  nice,  hitherto  excluded  from  the  hi-tory  of  the  world, 
into  direct  communication  with  the  -nperior  ami  more  civilized 
races. 

( )n  April  1,  1*7:1,  the  engagement  cut' rid  into  between  t lie 
Khedive  and  Sir  Samuel  expired,  and  Colonel  S.  K.  (iordon, 
of  the  Royal  Kngineer-,  was  appointed  \\\<  -tiee<  --or,  to  continue 
.Hid  carrv  on  the  work  left  unfinished  bv  Sir  Samuel. 

Colonel  (iordon,  with  whom  -.\a-  a.-sociated  M.  (le-.-i,  ha- 
sinee  that  p<  riod  In-en  einploved  m  exploring  the  I  pper  Nile 
region,  and  de-patches  have  onlv  verv  n-cently  been  re«vivcd 
from  them  addp--ed  to  the  I'p-ident  ot'  the  Roval  (Jeographi- 
cal  Sn-ietv  of'  Lii'_rland,  Sir  Rutherford  Alcock,  giving  mo-t  in- 
tcp-tni'_r  information  a-  to  the  re-nlt-  of  their  travel-.  Lake 
Albert  Nvan/a  ha-  been  thoroughly  explored  bv  M.  <lc--i,  who 
went  piiui'l  it  in  nine  dav-,  and  found  it  to  be  one  hundred 
and  fbrtv  mil'--  \»n^  bv  fifty  wide.  No  river  of  any  importance 
wa-  found  to  enter  it,  all  tho-e  \vhii-h  do  bein-j  ijiiite  drv  in  the 
-nmin.  r.  Tin  -.nth  end  i-  verv  -hallow,  and  mu<-h  oyepjrown 

\vith  ambai'-h  \\ 1.  Storm-  on  the  lake  \\ .  re  f'r.-.jiient  and  of 

•jreat  \  i.  ii'-ii'-.-.  and  had  ii"t  '  !• --i  IMI-II  provid'-d  \\ilh  b(e  boats, 
he  \\oiild  have  been  in  i_M'eat  daie_'i-r,  a-  no  other  kind  o|  boat.-* 
eoiild  ha'.'  b\'-d  in  -M'-li  Lr''l'--  and  -'-a-  a~  h<-  had  to  eiieoiint' -r. 

Tie  river  Nile,  at't.-r  l.avin-  Lake  All- rt.  -plit.-  into  two 
br.in.  h- •-.  one  uhii-h  •/.»•-  I"  I  >nll'  and  ( loiidoKop  and  the 
oth-r,  fh'-  native-  -av,  -•..-  far  inland.  <  I. ---i  llni;'.*-  it  \«\\\* 
tin  i  ;\  -  i  .la!'  •  ••[•  r.ahr  I  >j.  mit ,  and  p--«-nt«  r-  I  h'-  Nil-  a^'ain  at 


RKSULT8   OF    (JOHDON    AND    GKS.Sl'.S    1>1S<:OVKRIE8.         711 

Rabatchanibe,  near  when-  tin;  Bahr  /<Tof  <|iiit»  it.  The  river 
Jale  is  already  known  from  Itabatchaml>e  to  it>  pa.-siire  of 

* 

parallel  live  degrees  north,  and  its  navigability  l»y  nngger-  ha.- 
been  provwl  from  KaUatehamhe  to  Station  Klial),  near  parallel 
six  degrees.  Should  this  branch  prove  free  from  cataracts,  its 
importance  cannot  be  overestimated,  for  the  navigation  from 
Khartoum  to  LaUe  Albert  would  be  without  obstacle.  A  small 
steamer  of  light  draught  will  bring  the  furthermost  extrcmitio 
of  the  Nile  basin  within  three  weeks  of  Cairo  and  the  civili/.t-d 
world.  \Vo  may  expect  from  Colonel  (iordon's  energy  and 
devoted  ness,  together  with  the  scientific  knowledge  and  indomi- 
table perseverance  of  his  coadjutor,  M.  (iessi,  a  speedy  solution 
of  this  interesting  and  valuable  question. 


CHAPTER    XXXIX. 

IIKNKY    \K)i:i.AM>    STANI.KY. 

l>etfary  lft|W-alh«-d  l»y  l.ivini;>t<>n«m— Tin- Work  tak.-n  ii|>  l>y  Stanley  —  Mrctinj: 
In-tui-i-n  St.ml'-y  an- 1  I.i\  i  ii.: -tni  ii- — I  li<-\  -larl  >iii  an  l!xjHilitir>n  t<>i;rtlit-r  -Man- 
lt-\  li.iv.-i  him  t..  .-.irr\  •  n  tli--  \V,.rk  Tin-  Ti.rr.-  u'r«-at  M  \  M.-ri«->  of  tin-  l'a>( 
tiv  tuo  ••-.tii  -I  Y«ar>  -Two  -.Iv.-.l  l.\  Sir  -viniii.  I  K.ik.r  Tin- Tliinl.  tin- SMIMT 
••f  tin-  N:'n  .  •••ttlt-il  t.y  «M.iiili-y  Tin-  li\.-  I.-'lti  r>  r.-c.iv.il  from  him  Tlinllinir 
;ii-i-  ''Hit  i'l"  I'liiii-hiiH  n!  M|  in-  r.nuiliiri  IIM  N  .in.inj  ••!  liratriif  (iulf  Tin-  I'uli- 
1  .1  ••.  .1  <  ,a:i.I.ar.i.-  ir  i  Hi-  !  ,-I  I..  :I.T  :p.m  lii  11.  .iM  .if  Afiica  A  N.ili.ni  <•!' 
Mii^  xli-.r<  !'ai.il\/..l  i.y  l'a-:iin.-  ll..|«-l'til  ..f  >u«-o-.v.  — 1>«  Uriniii.il  t..  \<r<>- 
.•r,,|  till  MI..J..U  is  ai-c.illi|ill«iir.l. 

\\'lli:s  tli«-  L'T'-at  liMVclit-r,  Li\-iiiLr-t<'iM-,  \V:L-  taken  :i\vay, 
jti»t  ;i-  tin-  |il*<)l>lcin  <>1  a^f-  \va-  <in  tin-  r\v  <•!  solution,  \\  I  it'll 
aimtluT  v<  ar  <>i  liiMJiK  vi •_'<•!'  ini'jlit  have  ln'ou^ht  linn  liuine 
ti  !iini|tJi:ii!t .  ami  -  naUol  him  l<>  itiinl  the  \vn-ath  \vhi<-h  h<*  ><• 
|i.i--i.i.iai.  i\  riiviril  arouti'l  ln~  brow,  tin-  |>n»-jxvt  of  the  ^rauil 
aim  <>!  In-  lit'  f\'<-r  IM-HI^  a'-roni]ili-licil  XTIIIC  I  hut  laint.  llilt 
tii'  in.  n  \\  h"  <li'Mi  tlni-  with  tln-ir  work  halt  dom-  ln-(iufath  a 
•_T' at  in-|>! rut  i"ii  a-ih'ir  h-^ai'V.  Suit •(•>.-< »rs,  vounjx  awl  >troii£, 
lia\'-  n~.  n  iiji  to  catch  iln-  tun-li  \\lndi  ilro|)|H-«l,  a.s  it  wnv, 
from  <i\ •iiiL'  haii'l-.  aii'l  in  jil-n-.-  o(  mil-  \\cak  Military  |uoiit-cr, 
-t : 'ii_'_'l in_'  on  \sith  jiain  in  a  <liili<-nlt  trai  k,  a  troop  \\crr  >o<iii 
p|i---lirj-  on  in  tin-  path  \\hi-  h  in-  op.  n..l,  ami  \\orkiiiu'  out  tin1 
pian-  o!  ihi-  jr.  at  l'-a«l'-r  to  a  lulliu---  ot  acttiinnli-linu-iit  whirl) 
i-olll'l  n  V'  r  ha\'<-  lp«>  n  attaincil  !>v  lu~  OAH  imli\  ulnal  po\\i-r. 

Sudi  li\r~  ;i-  Livin^'-toiK  -  ai'f  al\\a\~  ur>  rininant  ;  tln-v  an- 
lh'-  ni"-t  pr.'i'iH-  ««<-«U  -'I'AII  in  a  Lr|  n<  ral  ion  iln-^tnl-  Irniu 
\'.  hidi  tli'  ii''ln-t  Iruit-  ot  lip-  tntun-  \\ill  ^ro\\. 

II'  'li>l  nioi-i'  liv  <1\  in-  in  A  t'l  i'-a  aii'l  /-•;  A  I  Vi'-a  t  hall  hrroiiM 
p'i--ii>i\  ha\'-  ai'i''i!Mp]i-||i-il  ha. I  h-  l>..n  -pari'd  |..  return  in 
:  i  ni in  j ih,  an« I  t'  >  t"i  ap  I  li>  honor-  ami  IT \\  aril*  wliicti  \\  oiil.  1  ha\'c 
;r.\ail«'l  him.  Hi-  'l-alh  I  >•  <  j  n--at  IP  •  I  th-  \\oik  o|'  Afri'-an  i-x- 
|>i"i  a:  i'  'II  ami  <  i  \  I ! i/at  imi  a-  a  -ad  •  d  \<  i_ra'  V  tu  tli«'  \\  ul'UJ  ;  ami 


MKKTING    WITH    LIVIXUHTONE.  7KJ 

it  lias  breathed  into  his  successors  an  energy  ami  intcn>itv  of 
purpose  which  in  the  end  must  win  the  great  .-m-cess. 

Foremost  among  tin-  many  gallant  ami  distinguished  men 
who  took  up  the  work  where  Livingstone  left  it,  at  his  lamented 
death,  head  and  shoulders  ahove  the  rot  of  tin-  hand,  is 
STANLEY,  whose  memorable  and  romantic  meeting  with  Living- 
stone in  the  wilds  of  the  African  continent  is  known  wherever 
the  English  language  is  spoken.  He  has  won  lor  him-elf  a 
name  as  a  daring,  resolute,  enduring,  and  in  every  wav  masterly 
explorer  of  unknown -regions. 

The  great  problem  of  ages — the  discovery  of  the  fountains  of 
the  Nile — was  the  object  of  Livingstone's  life;  and  the  solution 
of  this  mystery  was  taken  up  by  Stanley,  and  by  the  most 
recent  news  received  from  him,  dating  April,  IsTfi,  he  has  .-uc- 
ceeded  in  discovering  the  head  stream  of  the  Nile,  as  we  shall 
proceed  to  show  in  detail. 

After  that  affecting  meeting  with  Livingstone  on  October  28, 
1871,  when  Stanley  found  him,  just  as  hope  and  life  were  at 
their  last  ebb,  and  the  recuperative  power  of  hi.>  -y-tem  la>t 
failing,  the  two  together,  after  Livingstone  wa-  reiiv.-hcd  in 
body  and  spirit,  started  on  an  expedition  to  the  head  of  Tan- 
ganyika. Living-tone  had  ever  set  before  himself  :is  his  aim 
the  discovery  of  the  southernmost  watershed  of  the  Nile  basin, 
and  had  a  strong  conviction  that  Lake  Tanganvika  was  con- 
nected with  the  Albert  Nyan/a.  If  his  conjecture  wa-  true, 
and  Tanganvika  connected  with  the  Nile  ,-v-tcm.  it  wa.-  clear 
that  the  southern  ailluents  of  the  lake  draiiiiii-j;  the  water-lied 
between  it  and  Nyassa  would  be  the  true  "  Ctijiiff  \i'i .'"  I>ut 
subsequent  explorations  had  caused  him  to  ,-u-peet  that  the  lake 
was  the  headwater  of  the  Con^o,  and  not  ot'  the  Nile.  It  was 
a  sore  thought  for  Livingstone;  he  had  no  special  niteiv.-t  in 
the  Congo,  he  had  intense  enthusiasm  Ibr  the  Nile. 

Stanley  urged  him  to  give  up  hi-  project  and  to  return  and 
recruit  ;  but  faithful  unto  death,  the  great  traveller  piv-.-ed  on. 
in  the  vain  and  ever-memorable  struggle,  which  i-  M>  patheti- 
cally recorded  in  previous  chapters  of  this  work,  to  \\iv-t  the 
pri/e  he  >o  passionatelv  lunged  lor  out  of  tin-  hand  .>i'<l  atli. 

On  the  1-lth  of  >rareh  Mr.  Stanley  left  him.  and  ha-  ever 
since  been  engaged  in  the  exploration  and  opening  up  to  the 


714  THE    SOfHCE   OF    THE    EGYPTIAN    INrXHATION. 

t 

i-ivilizcil  world  that  nio-t  interesting  jxirtiou  of  the  African 
•ontinent  under  tlie  equator,  lyin<j  between  tho  «;reat  I^akes 
Victoria  and  AlU-rt  Nyan/a. 

Ik-fore  we  pnM-iM-d  ID  pve  :iny  account  of  the  imjmrtaut 
di-«-overie-  made  by  Stanley,  we  will  very  briefly  recapitulate 
tin-  nbjei-t.-  and  aims  of  all  the  explorations  which  have  IH-CU 
piini:  on  for  the  hi-t  fifteen  year,-,  and  then  -how  the  re.-ults 
and  achievements  of  the  -everal  explorer-;  l>nt  principally 
;h"-e  cif  Stanley  tip  to  the  very  latest  information  received. 

1  In  mv-terie-  and  problems  \vhieh  have  remained  unsolved 
ti»r  the  past  live  tliousaiul  vears  and  which  have  batlled  hitherto 
ai!  human  -eience  and  intellect,  have  IM-CII  the  sources  ot'  the 
Nile,  the  <-aii-es  of  the  annual  K^yptiau  inundation,  and  the 
-oure.-.s  ot  -upplv  of  th<-  lU'VCT- fail  ing  and  enormou.-  stream  of 
;lie  rivi-r  Nil*-,  flowing  a-  it  <\>«->  without  a  single  tributary  for 
>.-v  iit<-'-n  humlred  mil»-s,  thnuii;li  a  burning  de-i-rt. 

To  Sir  Sam u« -I  liaker  the  world  is  indebted  for  tin- solution 
of  tli«-  -•«•. cid  i.f  tln-1-  ijiic-tion-,  vi/.,  the  -i-mve  of  the  annual 
inundai i'ln  ,,;'  Mjr\pt.  In  his  \\urU  entitled  "  Nile's  Tributaries 
ot'  Abv--inia"  h--  Lriv»-<  a  mo-t  thrilling  aei-oiint  of  how  one 
n:_riit  HI  •Inii",  1  >*'i'J,  while  sleepini;  in  hi-  li-nt,  whieh  W;L- 
pit'-d'-'l  in  th«'  drv  li'-d  <i}  a  ns<  r.  In-  w.i-  wakened  up  bv  his 
Arab  -«  rvant  1>\'  eri«--  ol  "  1  he  nv<  r  !  I  he  river!  '  and  on 
Iri-viv  a- ••  ndiiiLr  tie  -ti-cp  bank  with  hi-  wife,  taking  with  him 
all  th'-ir  valnalih--,  he  h^ard  in  the  dark ne.-.-  ol'  th«'  ni^ht  a 
h<-avv  rum! >',;n_r  ii'»i-i-,  which  urra<luall\'  a-  it  appmafhed  nearer 
and  iii-ai'--r  -jr«-\v  louder  and  louder.  \\  hen  morning  broke,  hi- 
-a\v  \\hat  h;id  l»-'-n  th«-  dry  bed  i«f  th<-  riv«-r  < -overt -«1  \\ith  a 
rii-liiiij  t"rr'-nt,  t'-'/i -n'v  1'  •  t  decj>,  and  fivr  hundred  van!-  wide, 

I"'.!    ll_'     il't'AH,    '/I      /•"(/.'*      tn    Kl^Vpt.         'I   lie     tl<  MM!      had     eullle     tloWll 

iV'-r.i   A''V--inia,  and  this  \\-a-  the  -..lnti<>n  t-f  the  m\--terv  «.f  the 
.'p.:n_'  overflow  <•!'   tin-   Nile.      The  r,  a-on-  Driven  bv 
I'.a!.' r    f'"i'   arriving    at    th:~    ••..nelii-iiiii    are    -•  i   ei»n- 
-upjiorted  b\'  -o  mau\    -<  Miihl  aii>  I   1>  >j  leal  arjiiim  ni  -, 
.ni  ],.•    tin  i|"iil>t    that    In-  ha-    ;_M  \  •  n  tin-  tine  -olntnm 
-••iirei-   <>t'  t!i.-    inunilat ion,  and    "t    th-    annual    lertili/.in^ 
IJIJM..--I  .  .I'll,  e  i  j,  h   b<.f?..;n   iaii'U  "t'th'     I'./v  pt  ian   \alle\. 

T  .  thi-    .  \p!..i-'  r  al-i   an-    \\e  ind>  bt..l    t'..r    tie-  -..!vm>;  .,('  the 

t'lil  '1      fllV-terV    "f    til'      It  i  We  r     Nile,    vi/..    the    -»liree-    (,f    ll|.'    -llpj)!y 


SOl'KCR   OF   TIIK   KfPPLY    OF    TIIK    NII.K.  7 1  ") 

of  the  inexhaustible  stream,  without  any  visible  source  of  supply. 
Sir  Samuel  has  settled  this  question,  hv  showing  that  this  vast 
and  unfailing  supply  of  water  comes  from  tin-  great  equatorial 
basin  of  the  Nile,  and  the  heavv  rains  of  the  equatorial  niinv 
In-'lt  of  the  earth,  all  drained  into  tin;  White  Nile  from  number- 
less hikes  and  small  streams. 

This  equatorial  rainv  basin  of  the  Nile  embraces  an  area  of  at 
least  800,000  square  miles,  extending  from  tin-  tenth  decree  of 
north  latitude,  to  as  far  south  as  the  fifth  degree  south  of  the 
line,  and  is  filled  from  the  river  So  bat  on  the  ca-t,  the  Hahr- 
el-Ghazal  on  the  west  side  of  the  main  river,  and  those  enor- 
mous reservoirs,  Victoria  and  Albert  Lakes,  and  their  many 
feeders. 

These  two  questions  l>eing  thus  disposed  of,  we  shall  now 
proceed  to  show  what  has  been  done  towards  discovering  the 
first  great  problem,  the  source  of  the  river  Nile  itself. 

As  we  have  already  stated,  Livingstone,  during  all  the  years 
that  he  was  lost  to  the  outside;  world,  was  firm  in  the  belief  that 
the  Lualaba  river  was  the  main  stream  of  the  Nile,  being  led 
to  this  conclusion  by  his  explorations,  which,  in  his  opinion, 
proved  that  the  general  drainage  of  the  great  interior  bu.-iu  was 
discharged  through  the  Lualaba  river  into  the  Nile.  Although 
towards  the  close  of  his  eventful  life,  when  met  and  re-equipped 
for  active  service  by  Stanley,  lie  seemed  to  have  a  sii-picion 
that  his  theory  might  possibly  be  a  mistaken  one,  still  he 
adhered  to  it,  unwilling  to  believe  that  he  could  possibly  l>e 
wrong,  and  he  resumed  his  work  in  the  endeavor  to  determine 
the  destination  of  the  Lualaba,  perishing  at  last  ere  hi-  work 
was  accomplished,  and  leaving  it  to  be  settled  by  his 
successors. 

We  have  already  shown,  in  a  preceding  chapter,  the  iv-u!t  of 
Lieutenant  Cameron's  explorations,  after  he  met  the  body  of 
Livingstone,  and  sent  it  on  its  melancholy  journey  to  Knghind, 
vix.,  the  discoverv  of  the  outlet  of  Lake  Tanganyika. 

P>oth  Living-tone  and  Stanley  had  already  made  a  partial 
navigation  of  this  lake,  and  had  come  to  tli«-  conelu-i"ii  that 
the  outlet  was  at  its  southern  extremity.  This,  however.  Li- u- 
tenant  Cameron,  who  made  a  very  careful  circumnavigation  ot 
the  lake,  proved  to  be  a  mistake,  as  he  discovered  the  outlet  to 


710  KKAHS  IJF.C;AHI>IN<;  STANLEY'S  FATK. 

be  on  tin-  we>t  side,  and  also,  l»y  numerous  astronomical  ol><or- 
vations,  that  tin-  Lualaha  cannot  by  any  jtossihility  IK.-  the  Nile, 
ami  could  hanlly  IK-  any  other  than  the  (Am  1:0  river. 

Tlii-  now  brings  us  ti»  Stanley  and  his  discoveries  on  this 
all  iinjK>rtant  point. 

In  previous  1< 'tiers  received  from  this  intrepid  traveller, tlatitl 
.June.  1  >7">,  In-  gave  mo-t  interesting  accounts  of  his  explora- 
tion of  that  \  a-t  rc.-ervoir  of  the  I'pper  Nile,  Lake  Victoria 
N van/a,  in  his  vacht  "  Ladv  Alice,"  which  he  thoroughly  cir- 
cumnavigated, and  fullv  established  as  the  ba.-in  into  which  the 
fountain-  of  the  Nile  jHturcd  before  thev  flowed  in  an  unob- 
structed an<l  conil>ined  stream  toward-  the  land  of  Kgypt.  The 
hist  letter  received  from  him  on  that  occa-ion  ^  a>  that  which 
wa-  stained  1'V  the  blo.nl  of  M.  Linant  de  liellefoiuls,  whom  he 
met  at  the  cjipital  of  KiiiLT  Mtesa,  on  the  .-ho res  of  the  Victoria 
lake. 

Tin-  wa-  a  little  more  than  a  vear  a^o,  and  nothing  having 
I»ecn  heard  from  him  for  so  prolonged  a  peri.  «\,  the  rno-t  seri">;- 
mi-giving-  a-  to  his  fate  \\ere  excited,  and  {'•  ars  expre— ed  th.il 
upon  hi:n  :i  fate  had  fallen  similar  to  that  of  the  unfortunate 
Living-tone. 

Mi.  Stan!« -v  was  then  leaving  Mte-a,  who  had  given  him  -o 
fri>-ndi\'  a  r<  eeptiou,  \\ith  tie-  intention  of  joining  hi-  jiartv, 
\\lio  were  encumjM'<l  at  the  -oiithern  end  of  the  Victoria  lake, 
and  tli'T.iiv  completing  it-  circumnavigation.  He  then  in- 
tended to  travT-c  the  intervening  region  to  the  Albert  lake, 
efo--in_r  ^p'-!x«-'-  trai-k  at  ri_r!it  air^lo,  to  make  a  -urvev  of  the 
-••••olid  ji'.at  f.  eder  of  the  Nile,  aiid  dun  boldlv  jilnnu'f  into 
tip  nnk ii"-.\  n  territorv  to  t he  wc-{ ward,  ami  en«leavor  to  e-tab- 
ii-ii  th«'  r--!ation-hip  \\hi-'!i  the  va-t  lake-  <,f  tin  African  e«|tia- 
tonal  /o;i.  i  i.  ar  to  ih«-  ane;.  nt  i  i\.  r  and  to  each  oiher. 

Tic'  j.!"i.i:i-.-d  -ilence  oj'  Stanley,  the  d.ath  of  M .  I.inant. 
tii-  dilli'-ailii  -  e;i. '011111.  !''-d  bv  ('o|. .[;.•!  (i.,rdon  in  rea<  hin^  I  he 
i,  .i"!i.  r;i  i-\tn-mitv  of  the  AH"rt  la!,.,  and  M.(je--i  ha\  inj; 
-  .  r.  .  .  !ii',\  .  \p!oi',  d  that  !ak«-  u  ithoii:  beinj  a!  .)«•  to  hear  an\ 
tiling  u  iiat -i  M-vt-r  oi'  Stanley,  «  ere  all  calc-ilat-  d  to  •  \.-it  ••  ._M~a\  <• 
aj'pr«  !(•  ii-ioii-.  lint  Ibrtunateh  all  (•  ar-  a-  to  In-  -alet\  have 
i'.-n  «:irir<l\  n-rnos  •  d  l'\  tip-  i-'.ipt  of  ti\r  mo-t  inten-tiiii; 
i.f.  r-.  -.\ii:'.  :i  !•-.  <t  it,?,  v  him- If  to  t),.-  V,  „•  }',„/.•  //././'./, 


KIVK    I.iriTKI.'S    ItKCKIVKD    I'ltoM    MAM.KY.  7J7 

under  whose  nuspu'W  his  exploration*  arc  l>.  ing  eani-d  on, 
giving  ;i  niost  thrilling  armmtt  of  how  lie  ha-  -p« -nt  th--  in- 
tervening thirteen  months.  The  story  he  tells  U  one  of  hard- 
sJiip,  toil,  j^ivat  sufferings  ami  danger,  showing  him  IM  l»-  j,.,-- 
sessed  of  qualities  that  particularly  lit  him  for  .-ndi  C\JH  diiion-. 
its  ho  is  now  engaged  on.  Kndowed  with  indomitable  com-. >•_•.• 
and  great  cnduranee,  he  is  prepared  t<>  face  and  overcome  »\>- 
staelrs  that  would  deter  most  men,  and  in  manv  iv~j>.  <-t~  h.- 
dill'ers  1'roin  Livingstone,  l>v  whom  the  work  \va-  I»-JMII. 
Stanley  is,  in  spirit,  an  explorer;  Livingstone  \va<  a  mi>~innai-v. 
Stanley  is  an  apostle  of  science,  as  Livingstone  \\a>  an  ajio>i!e 
of  religion.  "When  Livingstone  met  a  .-a vagi;  tril»e.  he  w«.i;M 
make  a  detour,  or  turned  l:aek  in  order  to  prevent  the  nece—jv 
of  either  trespass  or  bloodshed.  Stanlev,  on  the  eontrarv, 
letches  up  the  musket  \>oy<,  and  lights  it  out,  and  if  linailv 
compelU-d  to  withdraw,  he  eomes  bade  at  another  and  mop- 
favorable  moment,  and  chastises  the  tribe,  a>  he  did  the  liarbar- 
ous  Bumbirehs,  the  savage  inhabitants  of  the  lake  .-hoi-e  and  the 
largo  island  that  lies  on  the  western  >ide  of  the  lake. 

The  late  despatches  received  from  him  contain  a  narrativ-'  »f 
his  journeyings  in  the  wild  regions  around  Lake  Victoria 
Xyanxn,  full  of  the  most  important  information  re^ai'diinr  a 
quarter  that  has  been  hitherto  inaccessible,  and  rc-|n -ctin^  \\  hi-  !i 
nothing  whatever  was  known.  Others  tried  in  vain  to  p-adi 
the  Upper  Nile  basin,  but  Stanley'.-  pluck  and  per.-i-tcncy  have 
conquered  all  obstacles. 

The  letters  cover  a  period  extending  from  June.  1S7.~>,  \\ln  n 
he  was  last  heard  from,  to  April  1^'i,  1ST*:,  the  date  of  th>-  la-t 
letter,  when  he  was  within  fifteen  dav-  march  of  I'iiji. 

The  first,  dated  July  L'it,  Is7"),  written  at  Mahyi-a  i-lai,d, 
in  Lake  \  ictoria  Xvan/a,  gives  an  account  of  hi-  return  v»\a:_'' 
from  th(>  capital  of  the  friendly  King  Mu-a.  al  the  head  ot'the 
\  ictoria  Nile,  to  \\\<  camp  at  the  southern  end  of  Victoria  lake. 
near  the  Shimeevu  river,  at  a  place  railed  Mahvi^a,  \\hic!i  ! 
had  proposed  a-  the  -tartiii^r  point  f>>r  hi-  next  'jr'-at  <  \[»  di:  l>\\. 

Me   cannot   do    bitter    than    ^ive   the  -tory  in  Stanl' y'-  »\\  n 
graph ie  and  deeplv  interesting  words,  as  any  condensation  \\ ,.;!.! 
but   feeblv  portrav  the   j>eri!-   and    har»l-hij>>  whi^h    he    had    to 
encounter,  and  which  were  all  PO  brav-ly  met  and  -< 
42 


71  >  THK    NH.HT   sriII'i:isK. 

overcome.  We  will  commence  \vitli  tin-  lir-t  letter,  in  which  is 
a  vi-rv  spiritttl  account  of  an  encounter  with  the  treacherous 
I'umhirehs. 

"  < '"iitinuin.:  niv  narrative  of  our  journev  from  I'janda  to 
\  -uktima  l>v  the  Western  sliort'  of  Lake  Nvan/a,  I  iv-nnie  it 
fro in  the  point  I  left  oil' ill  my  la-t  letter,  vix.  :  the  Ka-j'-ra  river 
or  tiie  K itariiruK'. 

'' We  hail  two  canoes  bclon^in^  to  Mtc-a  accompanying  our 
!«».it  a-  an  e-eort,  until  the  dilatory  ( iraud  Ailmiral  Mai:a--a 
-iioii'd  overtake  u-  with  hi-  fleet  of  thirtv  caiio.-.  and  the  dav 
v,  •  l'-fr  the  Ka'jyra  river  we  restetl  at  in_rlit  on  a  ;-miM)th,  Kiiulv 
It-a'-h  :it  tlf  foot  "f  the  I  "-on^ora  plateau,  at  a  point  i.-illed 
I\:i_r\-a.  I  In-  natives  were  friendly,  and  dispo->  d  to  In-  lio-pit- 
alii'-.  -o  that  we  ai-LMied  well  lor  our  reception  during  our  travel- 
aloii'j  the  eoa-t  of  I  'sonj^ora. 

"  lli''  in  \t  afternoon  we  camped  at  MaKou^o.  and  reerived 
an  ajiparentlv  friendlv  welcome  l>v  the  natives,  each  of  whom 
ua-  i  iiLr:i_r«d.  a-  we  landed,  m  the  t^rave  oceiijiat  ion  of  imhiliinj 
p-'inli--  or  li«-.-r  hv  mean-  of  lon:_r  -traw  pip-  -,  e\-ietlv  a-  \\e  taki- 
;i  '  -h«-rrv  eolil.ler  '  or  a  '  mint  '|iil<  p  '  in  tin-  I  Hi:-  d  Sta!«  -.  The 
> -hi' •!'  -li_ditl\  rit'lril  a.-  he  eaiii"  {iirward  to  siltlte  in--,  and  hi- 
e\e-  had  that  uiieertaiu  Lra/''  which  M-I  m  d  to  hint  that  he  -aw 
d  Mllile,  or  two  \\hlte  men  when  there  \va-  olil\'  oiii'.  IIo\\eVer, 

IP-  aiici  In-  people  \\eiv  LjiMitl-natured,  and  contentiil  \\iih  our 
arrival. 

". \ln.Mt  1<>  ]•.  \t.,  we  \\cr>-  all  awakened  from  -l>--p  hv  a 
tiiMoti-  drumminjx,  accotupani'-il  \\<>\\  ;md  ih'-n  K\  -hrill  \'«  1!-. 
lir  \\  a-janda  -aid  that  thi-  drumming:  and  veiling  v.  a.-  in 

\\ileoini-  to  tlie  \\  hit.-  -trail_"  1'.  I  did  Hot  ItdjeVe  tlhlil.aiid 
'h'  r'-tni'.-  |ilit  JnV  people  on  th«  ir  'Jllard,  ordel'eil  tin  lii  t-i  1  rid 
th'-ir  Lr|in-  and  ji!a<'.-  th«-m  undif  their  -1'ejiin-j:  mat-,  and  ai- 
!Mii_"d  all  r.\\'  o'.vii  in  a  handv  and  -at'-  po-it;.in.  I'.M-I  pt  tin- 
'oiitinued  drn  Minnie/  and  vellue_r,  nothing  nceiirreil  d':i'iir_'  t!.' 
Mjli!.  hut  a'  da\'lir'  ak  %\«-  l"im<l  our-'  }\'<-~  ;n  jire-ene.'  i,f  al>"ii: 
:':•.•  hundred  warrior-,  armed  \\ith  l»nv,  -In-  Id  and  «-jn-tr.  \\  ho 
:.  id  i-n  pt  ijU!'  t!\  in  ar  th'1  «-aiiip,  and  tl.'  n  had  -''."d  up  in  a 
-•  iiii'-irde,  pi'i  •,  i  n' ;n/  all  i  -e;»p«-  ..i\i  !-v  <,\at'-f.  I  \\a-  -o  a-ton- 
i  !.•  d  !>'.  thi-  -udd' n  apj>antiou  of  -uch  a  la !••_'<•  In.dv  of  arnn-d 


TIIK    CATASTHOI'IIK    A  VKUTKP.  71!) 

men    that,    I    couhl    barely  believe    that  we  were -till  in  Mte-a'- 
territory. 

"  There  was  also  something  very  curious  in  their  demeanor. 
For  then*  wa-  no  shouting,  yelling  or  frantic  behavior,  a-  we 
had  several  times  witnessed  on  the  part  of  -avails  when  about 
to  commit  themselves  by  a  desperate  deed.  They  all  wore  a 
composed  though  a  stern  and  determined  aspect.  It  was  a  ter- 
rible moment  to  us.  We  knew  not  what  to  make  nf  the.-e  hun- 
dreds of  armed  savages,  who  persisted  in  being  -ilent,  and  gave 
no  hint  as  to  their  intentions,  unless  the  Ibre-t  «,f  -pear<  misiht 
bo  taken  as  a  clear,  unmistakable  and  explicit  hint  that  their 
object  was  a  bloody  one.  \\  e  feared  to  make  a  movement  le.-t 
it  might  precipitate  a  catastrophe  which  might  po--il>lv  be 
averted;  so  we  remained  a  few  minutes  silently  surveying  cadi 
other. 

"The  silence1  was  soon  broken,  however,  l»y  the  appearance 
of  the  chit1!'  who  had  welcomed  us  (though  he  \vas  then  inebri- 
ated) the  evening  before.  He  had  a  long  .-tick  in  his  hand, 
which  he  flourished  before  tin:  laces  of  the  -ava-jes,  and  by  thi- 
means  drove  them  several  paces  backward.  He  then  came  for- 
ward, and,  striking  the  boat,  ordered  us  to  get  oil',  and  he  him- 
self lent  a  hand  to  shove  the  boat  into  the  lake. 

""We  were  nothing  loth  to  obey  such  good  coiin.-el,  and  soon 
put  a  distance  of  one  hundred  yard.-  between  ourselves  and  the 
hostile  beach.  As  the  Waganda  were  not  yet  out  of  danger, 
we  prepared  our  guns  to  sweep  the  beach.  So  dcu.-e  was  the 
crowd  of  armed  men  near  the  water  line  that  we  mi_dit  have 
taken  a  fearful  revenge  had  we  been  -o  vengeful  I  v  disposed,  or 
had  the  necessity  of  saving  the  Waganda  compelled  u-  to  lire. 
Happily  though,  our  friend-,  not  without  loud  remon-tran«r 
and  much  wordv  altercation,  embarked  in  safety,  and  followed 
us  to  Musi ra  island.  Ib-jv  the  chief  came,  and.  learning  our 
wants  and  our  objects,  sent  oil'  three  bundle-  of  banana-  which 
he  presented  to  us,  and  then  left  u-  to  our  fate. 

"In  the  afternoon  we  sighted  our  (Iraud  Admiral  Ma_ra--a. 
vvith  a  lar-c  fleet  of  canoe-,  paddling  .-lowly  to  a  n*  i^hb.  <r\i\^ 
island,  where  he  camped  for  the  ni^ht.  1  >.-iroii-  of  (jiiiekening 
his  movements,  I  -ailed  from  Mn-ira  i-land  for  A! 
distant  thirty-live  mile-.  The  two  chief- of  our  e-co 


720  IN  \V.\NT  OK  K«M»I». 

aei'ompani^l  u*  a  mile  <>r  tun.  :ui>l  then,  alanno«l  !>y  the  .i-|nvt 
of  thf  wrather.  turned  l>i«-k,  -h»utintr  to  u<  at  th«  -aiue  time 
that  a-  »iw>u  a-  tin-  wind  moderated  thi-v  would  follow  us. 

"  It  \\a-  near  midnight  when  we  arrived  at  .  \liee  inland,  and 
by  -teerin'.r  f'-r  a  li'_rht  «»n  -hop'.  we  fortunately  found  a  -nn^r. 
well  —  h'-lt'-r»  d  cove.  \\'liru  <lavli'_rht  cainr  \v<-  foiunl  diir-clvc- 
at  tli«'  foot  of'  a  liii'jc  lirrtlin^  ditl',  and  <li-«  ovt-rctl  that  \\c  ha«l 
takrn  -ln-htT  ii'-ar  a  kitxl  of  [HMithoilst1  furmtti  l>v  ovt-rhaii^iiiii 
roi-k~.  \\hi.-h  \vin-  now  l)lackcin-il  with  tin-  sniok<-  of  inaiiv  lir<>. 
Tin-  nativi-  of  the  island  <-am«-  down  to  vi^it  n-.  holdin>;  out 
wi-p-  of  L'lvu  -jra-;~  a-  a  >iun  "i  jx-acr  and  friend  linos.  I'ut 
though  tlirv  wen-  frirndlv  mon^h.  they  wen-  M>  cxt«»rtionati'  in 
ih-'ir  dfinaixU  that  we  trained  nothing  l>\'  their  friend>hij>,  ami 
were  coin  |  H-1  led  to  depart  at  ii<H)ii.with  everv  j»ro<j>eet  of  Marva- 
ti"ii  Ic-t'i.!-'-  it-,  unli--  Biuiiltireh  i~lan<l  >a  lar_r<-  and  pojuilou- 
i-land  Ivintr  -otithwest  of  Ali«v  island  ahoiit  twentv-five  mil'  •>', 
to  wlii<-h  I  deterininit]  to  sjiil,  i'urni-h^d  u«  \\iih  foml. 

"Amid  rain,  thnndi-r.  li^litniiiir  and  a  MUindini;  -nrf  on  all 
^id---.  \M-  dropp.il  anchor  und«  r  th«-  !••<•  of  1',  ..•,,(•!,'-  inland  al»'Ut 
niidnL'ht.  It  rain.-d  an<l  thnnden-d  throughout  the  niirht.  and 
we  had  inii'-h  ti-oijhh-  to  k.-cp  our  lioat  a!lo:it  l.y  ron-iaal  1-ail- 
iiv_r.  At  da\'!>rr:tk  \\>-  hurried  awav  froin  our  ilan^ennis 
aii'-!i"ra_rf  l"-forr  a  -t'-a<l\"  -tron^  IIP-I-/I-  troin  the  iiorthea-t,  and 
within  thr«-e  hoiir->  dr»-w  n«-ar  tli<'  eoiuforial'le  little  i-«ive  near 
t!i«-  villas-  of  Kajuri.  at  th«-  -outhea-t-Tn  fxtr'-iniiy  ot'  Iluniliireh 
i-!and.  A-  \\«-  looknl  on  th-  plentv  which  •_'!''•'  n  -lop»-.  '^ar- 
ni-h'-d  \\ith  !ar_rf  iri'"V<--  ot'  lianana-.  and  dotn-d  \\ilh  In  -r>\-  oj 
tat  catt!'-.  Jtroini-iil,  we  anticipated  an  aluindanet-  ..(  ;_'  .....  1  tooil, 
rip--  l'anana~.  a  fat  Lr"at,  a  larjc  -upplv  of  milk  and  ot  \\,  r  ihin^s 
•jiind  f.  .r  taini-hiiiL'  INCH.  P.iit  \\.-  wen-  disappointed  to  h<-;ir 
tin-  la  r-_'i-  ininit»cr  ot'  |."opl,-  on  t'n.-  |i!ati-an  al»ov«-  th-'  village 
••hontinj-  t  hi  i  r  war  cry. 

"  \\  •  Inl'.-d  at  th«-  di-tanci-  >.;'  t  •-.  .  n'v  \-ard~  tVoin  -li  '!•••.  and 
I  oli-.rvd  that  th--  '.--ill!  ln-!n\  i'-r  of  t!i"  native.  rh,-inLr"«l.  a- 
flu-v  approached  i:ear»-r,  t"  a'Ti'-ilitN  and  I:  i-  n-  1  !in-  --.  \\  ••  ,  \- 
<-li-iie_"  d  th'  n-n:t!  !Vi-nd!\  -jr<  •  t  i  ir.:  -  ,  ai  M  1  \\  •  r<  :n\i!'dt  .....  'Hie 
j,-!,oi'-  in  -'I'-!,  fiie-  a-  «li--ipa!-d  th-  1-  .i-t  -M-pif"oji  t'lom  ..nr 
mi.  id-.  \"  -•"•:  i  r.  h"\v  \.  r.  h-.d  the  k"  !  "!'  the  I,  oat  -roiind.-d. 


.!',. 


TKKACIIK.UY    OK    'I  UK    <  II  IKK    MIKKKA.  721 

the  boat  and  dragged  her  lii^h  and  drv  on  land,  \\ith  all  on 
board.  Twice  I  raised  mv  revolvers,  but  the  crew  restrained 
me,  say  ing  it  was  premature  to  light,  a-  these  people  were  friend-, 
and  all  would  be  right.  Accordingly  1  sat  do\\  n  in  the -tern 
sheets  and  waited  patiently  l<>r  the  decisive  moment.  The 
savages  fast  increased  in  numbers,  and  the  hubbub  grew  greater. 
Violent  language  and  more  violent  action  we  received  without 
Comment  or  word  on  our  part.  Spears  \\ere  held  in  their  hand- 
as  if  on  the  launch,  arrows  were  drawn  to  the  head  and  pointed 
at  each  of  us  with  fren/ied  looks  and  eves  almost  bursting  out 
of  their  sockets.  Thev  struck  the  ground  and  the  boat,  .-tamped, 
foamed  at  the  mouth,  gnashed  their  teeth,  .slashed  the  air  with 
their  spears,  but  thev  shed  no  blood.  The  chief  Shekka  pre- 
vented this,  reserving  that  plea.-urc,  I  presume,  Ibr  a  more  op- 
portune time,  when  a  new  excitement  would  he  required.  A- 
we  were  in  their  power,  it  only  remained  for  u-  to  be  quiet  until 
thev  proceeded  to  acts  of  violence,  and  in  the  meantime  en- 
deavor to  purchase  peace',  or  at  lea-t  postpone  the  -trite. 

"  Shekka  demanded  four  cloth-  and  ten  necklaces  of  large 
beads  as  his  price  for  permitting  us  to  depart  in  peace.  They 
were  paid  to  him.  Having  secured  them,  he  ordered  his  people 
to  sei/e  our  oars,  which  was  done  before  we  understood  what 
thev  were  about.  This  was  the  second  time  that  Shekka  had 
acted  cunningly  and  treacherously,  and  a  loud  jeering  lau^h  from 
his  people  showed  him  how  much  thev  appreciated  hi-  wit. 

''After  sei/ing  the  oar.-,  Shekka  and  In-  people  -lowlv  went 
to  their  village  to  eat  their  noon  meal,  and  to  di-etis-  what  other 
measures  should  be  adopted  towards  the  -tranters.  At  •'»  r.  M. 
the  natives  began  to  a-.-eml.le  on  the  rid^e  of  a  low  hill  about 
a  hundred  vards  from  the  boat,  and  pre.-ent Iv  drum.-  were  heard 
beating  the  call  to  war,  until  within  half  an  hour  about  live 
hundred  warrior.-  had  gathered  around  >!iekka.  u  ho  \\a-  sitting 
down  addressing  his  people.  \\ii.u  he  had  done,  about  tiny 
rushed  down  and  took  our  drum,  and  kindly  told  n-  to  -et  our 
guns  ready  for  li^ht,  as  thev  were  coming  presently  to  cut  our 
throats. 

"As  soon  a-  I  saw  the  -ava^v-  had  arrived  in  the  pivseiiei  .;' 
Shekka  with  our  drum,  I  shouted  to  mv  men  \->  pn-h  ti,--  1*  at 
into  the  water.  With  one  d- .--perate  etlort  my  cre\\  of  <  \-n 


722  ESCAPE    FKOM    THE    NATIVES. 

men  -ci/ed  the  lx>at  as  if  -he  liad  lieen  a  mere  tov,  and  shot  her 
far  into  the  water.  The  impetus  they  had  given  her  eau-ed  her 
to  dra-j  them  all  into  deep  water.  In  the  meantime  the  .-ava^es, 
uttering  a  furiou-  howl  of  di-appointment  and  batlled  rage, 
came  rushing  like  a  whirlwind  toward-  the  water's  edge. 

"  I  di-char-jed  my  elephant  rille,  with  it-  two  large  conical 
bulls,  into  their  mid-t,  and  then,  a-.-i.-ting  one  of  the  crew  into 
the  boat,  told  him  to  help  his  fellow.-  in  while  1  continued  to 
tii:ht.  Mv  double-barrelled  shot-gun,  loaded  with  buek.-hot, 
wa-  next  di-charged  with  terrible  effect,  l<>r,  without  drawing  a 
-ingle  b. i\\-  or  launching  a  -ingle  -pear,  thev  retreated  up  the 
-lope  of  the  hill,  leaving  ti-  to  exert  our  wit.-  to  get  the  boat  out 
of  the  cove  before  the  enemy  should  decide  to  man  their  canoes. 

"  Twice  in  succession  I  succeeded  in  dropping  men  determined 
on  launching  the  canoes,  and  .-eeing  the  sub-chief  who  had  com- 
manded the  party  that  took  the  drum,  I  took  deliberate  aim 
with  my  elephant  rille  at  him.  That  bullet,  as  I  have  -ince 
been  told,  killed  the  chief  and  hi-  wile  and  infant,  w  ho  happened 
to  be  .-landing  a  few  pace-  behind  him,  and  the  extraordinary 
re-ult  had  moiv  etl'ect  on  the  sujx.'rstitious  mind-  of  the  native, 
than  all  pivvioti-  or  Mil»c<|iicnl  .-hot-. 

"  <  >ll    'Jfettinir     ollt    of    the    coVe    We    -aW     t  Uo  cai|oe-    loaded    with 

men  coining  <'iit  in  pur.-uit  fn>m  another  .-mall  cove.  I  per- 
mitted them  to  come  within  one  hundred  vards  of  u-,  and  tiii- 
time  I  u-ed  the  elephant  rille  with  explo.-ivc  balls.  Four  .-hot- 
killed  five  men  and  -ank  the  canoe-. 

"  Tin-  deej-ive  all'air  di-heartened  the  eiiernv,  and  we  were 
left  to  pur-iie  our  wav  iinmolotrd,  not.  however,  without  hear- 
iii_'  a  ringing  voice  -hoiiting  out  to  n-,  '  <  Jo  and  die  in  the 
N\  an/a  !  ' 

F.ivop-d  bv  a  bive/e  from  the  land,  thev  hoi-t   d  -ail.  and    bv 

n:.-lii   we|v  mile-  awav  from  the  inho-pital»le  -hop-  where   they 

-o  narrow  Iv  e-ca[n-d    limn    b.in_r    ma—aiTitl,  and  \\hei-e    the 

e\pi-dittoi|    wen-    milv  -a\'ed    from    utter    de«truetion    b\- 

\\  •    -tubborn  \alor  and  con-ummate   -kill  a-   a    leader  di-plavi-d 

\.i    (!;•     l"'i  !o-\  Mi-j    d.i\    the\    \\ere    on!    on    the  lake,  and  wen- 

it  •  •!  •!  n  j  to  !  i  .•<  h  -oine  !i:i\  <  n  I  "  (•  <l>-  li  I  J  ht  ,  I  'lit  i  •  >',\  .1 1'<  1  -  i  \  i  n  1! ;  g 
a  t'  :  r;l  >)e  -;.  ,|  ::i  •  ai.i'  on,  i  .r  rather  a  -nee.  --  ],  ,n  •  .1  Verv  -.  \  ere 


WKI.rO.MK    HACK    To    c.\Mi'.  7l_'.'J 

storms,  during  which    their    frail    canoe-   wen-   in    tin-   gn-aii-t 
jeopardy,  ami  death  start.1* I  them  in  tin-  fan-  mi  everv  hand. 

Alter  a  day  ami  night  of  tossing  alx>nt,  and  \\hen  thev  had 
begun  to  think  that  the  curse  of  the  I  Jnmbinh-,  "<;,,  and  die 
in  the  Nyan/a,"  was  about  to  lie  reali/ed,  thev  at  la.-t  -iid  •< •<  d*-d 
in  reaching  their  camp  at  Kagchvi. 

Shouts  of  welcome  greeted  them  from  .shore,  when  even  nianv 
miles  away;  hut  as  thevdre\v  near  the  .-houts  changed  to  voll.-v- 
of  musketry  and  waving  of  flags,  and  the  land  -eenied  alive 
with  leaping  forms  of  glad-hearted  men,  for  thev  had  been  fitiv- 
seveu  days  absent,  and  many  a  fal-e  rumor  of  iheir  death, 
.strengthened  each  dav  as  their  absence  <jrew  longer,  wa-  no\\  di-- 
sipated  by  the  appearance  of  the  "  Ladv  Alice/'  -ailing  jov«>u-lv 
to  the  port  of  Kagehvi. 

As  the  keel  gi'ounded,  over  fiftv  men  liounded  to  the  water, 
dragged  Stanley  from  the  boat,  and  danced  him  round  camp 
o;»  their  shoulders,  amid  much  laughter,  clapping  of  hand-, 
grotesque  wriggling  of  human  forms  and  Saxon  hurrahing. 
Having  vented  their  joy,  they  set  him  down  and  all  formed 
a  circle,  manv  men  deep,  to  hear  the  news. 

The  second  of  Stanley's  letters  is  written  from  the  lake  -lion- 
town  of  Humo,  in  southwestern  t'ganda,  and  dated  Aunu-t  \~>, 
1S75.  Stanley  remained  for  some  nine  nr  ten  dav-  inactive, 
after  his  troublous  exploration  of  the  N van/a  and  hi-  danger- 
ous lake  journey,  waiting  for  the  arrival  of  the  (Jrand  Admi- 
ral Magassa  with  his  canoes.  l>ut  at  la.-t  he  cnuld  \\ait  no 
longer,  and  preparations  were  made  to  march  "\.rland  to 
Uganda,  along  the  lake  shore.  Just  a-  the  expedition  wa.*. 
ready  to  start,  there  came  an  embassy  from  IJuwoma,  the  knu; 
of  southern  I ''/in/a,  bearing  a  jien-mjitory  me-.-age  to  the  etll-ct 
that  lie  "  did  not  want  to  see  the  white  man.  <>r  any  other  \\  !i;i-- 
man,  with  IOULT  red  hair  down  to  his  shoulders,  white  fa--e  and  '  -i-^ 
red  eves,"  that  the  white  man  was  not  to  pa--  through  h;-  coun- 
try, and  that  if  he  did  come.  he.  Kiiwoma,  would  ti^ht  hi 
placed  Stanley  in  a  very  perj)lc\ing  dilemma. 
undertake  the  lake  journey  to  Uganda,  hecan-> 
not  proved  faithful  to  the  trust  ivpo-.-d  in  him 
the  journey  bv  land  was  now  impo— ible.  a-  it  \' 
utter  follv  and  bad  policv  to  iitive  a  j»a--.ue  ;hr. 


7'J4  HKTt'KN    TO    lil'MIIIRKH. 

country.  What  was  to  !><•  done?  Turn  away  from  the  All>ort 
N  van/a,  an<l  direct  hi-  eour-e  for  the  Tanganyika,  leaving  the 
former  lake  t->  be  explored  by  ( Jordon's  exjx'dition  ?  IT  he  did 
-o,  the  qiif-tion  aro-c,  \\ho  then  \\ttul«l  explore  the  debatable 
hui'i  lvinur  between  tin-  AlU-rt  .\  van/a  and  tin-  Tanganyika? 

The  «m!v  way  that  Stanley  could  >ee  out  of  hi.-  ditlieulty  w;i» 
to  obtain  can».  -  from  some  other  point,  and  to  determine  upon 
th«  lake  rout--  to  r-_randa.  After  making  the  fnllot  inquiries 
j-i •-]•••< -tiii_'  the  maritime  re-oiiive-  o('  each  of  the  adjacent  triU-s 
and  nation-  borderim:  on  Sjx-Ue  (illlf,  heat  la.-t  .-neeeedi-d,  alter 
;i  ^p-at  deal  of  dijilomatie  inaixeiivrinj;  and  delicate  negotiations, 
in  |»-r-n.idi:i_'  Luk-'ii-jeh,  the  amiable  kin^  of  t  keivwe,  t<» 
pi-omi-e  him  tiity  eanoi-,  but  only  a-  far  as  I'sukuma.  '1  his 
Stanlcv  had  to  1  •••  -ati~ti«'d  with;  but  having  previou-ly  made 
up  hi-  mind  a-  t"  what  he  >hoidd  «h>,  on  their  arrival  at 
I  '-11  k u ma  IK-  for-iMv  -^  i/.-d  the  (-.UKH-S  ami  paddhs,  antl  although 
the  native.  at  lir-t  re-i-t<'«!.  and  made  preparations  for  attacking 
tie  partv.  lie  -ne.-e.-iled  iii  -  i f •  ! \  ei 1 1 1  »a r k i 1 1 _r  hi-  expedition  and 
pn-jM-rtv  in  tli'-  cai  o>'-,  in  uhi'-h  thev  arrivi-*!  -alely  at  Iveluge 
i-!a:i'l,  hall'  v.  av  to  I '^  ni'la  and  two  da\>'  -ail  from  iltimhirell. 
Tin-  latter  pl:iee  wa-  v.  here  the  -ava^e-  had  made  the  treaeher- 
on-  atlai-k  upon  h;-  expeilitiolt,  >o  ^I'aphieallv  di'seribetl  in  his 
!ir.-t  letter. 

At'tera  few  ilav-'  re-i  on  llefij'^e  i-laud,  thev  pnwceded  on 
th'-ir  Vova-jce,  and  n-nieinbering  the  bitter  injiirii--  he  had  re- 

e.-i\  .  .|  li'.im  the  n;iti\  i  -  o|  I  \\i\i\\  ureh,  and  tli'-  death  b\  Violence 
rind  -tarvat  ;oii  lie  an.  1  hi-  part  v  had  -•  >  narro\\  |\-  e-eaped.  Stanley 
rt-'i!\-e<|.  mil'--  thev  \\niild  make  amend-  for  their  cruelty  and 
tr--:i''!ierv,  to  make  war  mi  tii-m  and  to  admini-ler  .-ii'-h  a  pnn- 
i-iiiii'-nt  to  th.  in  a-  woiiM  pro\-,-  a  -alularv  le--on.  an«l  teach 
tii'  'ii  ill"  dntv  '  f  h'i-p:talitv  to  traveller-. 

>t  ml' -v  lir-t  -•  -nt  a  in.  ---I'je  to  tin-  natix.  -  of  |»nmbire|i  t<.  the 
«•!!"•  et  that  if  th«'V  \\oiil.l  d.-iivT  tie  ir  kin<j  and  the  t  \\  < »  |iriin-i- 
pil  e!ii«-|-  under  him  into  In-  hand-,  IP-  \\"iiM  make  peace  \\iih 
t  !;•  n.  Mi;-  nit  imat  nm  \\a-  i  ••  ••  •  i\'«-«  I  \\  it  h  contempt ,  but  by  a 

-i  i  .i'a  ;•    .1  Si  mi-  \    -n !••!    in    '/i:tin_'    th'     I. in.;  of    lluml'ireh 

i  1 1 1  .'i  /  hi    to    In  m.  u  ho  M  a-    at    on'-'-    h  eav  1 1\'  chained.       I  '••  nr/    in 

\\:»nt    of   -nppli'-     !"i'    hi-    partv,    ^ini!'-\     -.-nt    t"    |  ininl  .ir.'li    to 

i"   'i!'    foo.l,  Ln!    tip    na!i\>  -.  in       !  P  '     o|    LM\  in.'    anv.  attacked 


I-'KAIir-TL    rrXlsmir.NT    OF    NATIVl,s.  7j;} 

lu's  men,  wounding   eight    and    killing   a   friendlv  ehief,  \vitieh 
uus  another  reason  whv  Bumbireh  should  be  puni-hcd. 

Accordingly,  next  morning  Stanlev  started  otf  \\ith  a  force  of 
two  hundred  and  eightv  men — liftv  mu-ke!-,  two  hundred  and 
thirty  spcarsmen — in  eighteen  canoe?,  and  reached  the  i-land  of 
Butnbireh  about  two  in  the  afternoon.  The  native.-,  had  evi- 
dentlv  been  anticipating  some  trouble,  for  a-  thev  approached 
they  observed  messengers  running  fa.-t  to  a  plantain  -rove  that 
stood  on  a  low  hill  commanding  a  clear  open  view  of  a  little 
|K>rt  at  the  southern  end  of  the  i-land,  from  which  thev  con- 
eluded  that  the  main  force  of  the  savages  wa-  hidden  behind 
the  grove. 

Perceiving  that  they  were  too  strong  for  him  to  attack  them 
in  the  plantain  grove,  Stanley  steered  for  the  oppo-ite  -hore,  in- 
tending to  disembark  his  force  there,  but  as  -oon  a-  the  natives 
saw  this,  thev  ro,-e  from  their  coverts  and  ran  along  the  hill 
slopes  to  meet  Stanley,  which  wa-  precisely  what  he  \\i-hed  thev 
would  do,  and  accordingly  he  ordered  his  force  to  paddle  -lowlv 
so  as  to  give  them  time.  In  half  an  hour  the  .-a  vanes  were  all 
assembled  on  the  bare  slope  of  a  hill  in  knot-  and  uroiip-.  and 
after  approaching  within  one  hundred  vards  of  the  -hore.  Stan- 
lev  formed  his  line  of  battle,  the  American  and  Kn-li-h  (lags 
waving  as  their  ensigns.  Having  anchored  each  canoe  -o  a-  to 
turn  its  broadside  to  the  shore,  h"  ordered  a  vollev  to  be  fired 
at  one  group  which  numbered  about  fiftv,and  the  iv-nlt  wa-  ten 
killed  and  thirty  wounded.  The  savages,  perceiving  the  danger 
of  standing  in  groups,  separated  themselves  along  t  he  lake  -hore, 
and  advanced  to  the  water'-  edge,  slinging  -tone-  and  -hooting 
arrows.  Stanlev  then  ordered  the  canoe-  to  advance  within 
fifty  yards  of  the  shore,  and  to  lire  a-  it'  they  were 
birds.  After  an  hour  the  -ava-v-  .-aw  that  they  . 
defend  themselves  at  the  water's  edge,  and  retreat 
hill  slope,  where  they  continued  -till  e.\po-ed  to  the 
the  boats. 

Another   hour  wa-    pa— ed    in    thi-    manner.      Ib 
the  canoes  to  come  together,  and  (old  them  to  advance 
to  the  shore  as  if  thev  were  about    to  di-cmbark.       I  h 
the  enemv  to  make  an  etl'ort  to  repn!- 
inglv,  hundreds   came   down    with 


720  ON    TIIK    WAV    To    THK    AI.l'.KKT    NVANZA. 

launch.  When  they  were  close  to  the  water's  edge  the  bugle 
sounded  a  halt,  and  another  vollev  was  fired  into  the  dense 
crowd,  which  had  such  a  disastrous  elfect  on  them  that  they 
retired  far  up  the  hill,  and  the  work  of  punishment  was  con- 
summated. 

The  lo--  of  the  savage-  wa-  very  great,  a.-  might  naturally 
U-  expe<  ted,  con-idering  thev  were  so  exposed  on  a  shore  cov- 
ered onlv  with  short  gra--.  I  orty-two  were  counted  Ivingdead 
on  the  field,  and  over  one  hundred  were  seen  to  retire  wounded, 
while  on  Stanley's  side  only  two  siitfered  contusion  from  -tones 
slung  at  them.  Stanley's  spear-men  were  verv  anxioii-  that  he 
should  allow  tin  in  to  land  and  utterlv  destrov  the  Bumhirehs, 
lint  this  he  refused,  -av'ii'j  that  he  had  not  conn'  to  destroy  the 
island,  luit  to  punish  them  lor  their  treacherv  and  attempted 
murder  ot'  him-elf  and  partv,  when  thev  had  put  faith  in  their 
profes-ed  friendship. 

After  leaving  IJumhireh,  the  expedition  landed  and  camped 
at  1  >unio  I '-anda,  u  hi'-h  i- two  davs' march  north  of' tin-  Ixagera 
river,  and  t\vo  davs' south  of  the  Katon'_ra  river.  '1  his  camp 
Stanlev  selected  for  the  expedition  lieeaii-e  it  \\a-  intermediate, 
whence  he  eoiild  start  on  a  nortlr\e-t.  we-t,  or  -oiithwe-t  eotir-e 
for  iheAll'eri  N  van/a,  after  ascertaining  from  Mte-a  which  was 
lie-t  :  for  l.etueeii  the  Victoria  N  van/a  and  the  Albert  Nyan/a 
are  \-tTv  powerful  tribe-,  the  Wa-a-ara.  \\  a  liuanda,  and  \\  a  — 
an"ora  e-peeiallv,  w  ho  w  <  iv  continiiallv  at  war  with  M  tc-a. 

Here  he  remained  for  some  da\  -,  until  he  could  ol.tain  force 
-iiiiiei.nt  from  Mte-a,  Kmperor  of  I  "janda.  to  pierce  the  ho-iile 
coimtrv  thi-.-u-h  which  alone  he  could  penetrate  to  the  Albert 
N\an/a,  the  aim  of  hi-  pi  e-ent  e\p,  dition.  H-  him-elf  wa-  of 
opinion  that  mile--  the  em|.e|-or  »av«'  him  a  (orce  "(  (ilty  thoii- 
-:m.|  m.-ii.  it  w.-iild  be  almo-i  h.,p.-l.  --  l»  ex]»"«-|  that  they  could 
| ,,,1,1  th,  ir  _'!oiind  loi i-  ei ,oi i-h  t"  enab!'-  him  to  -e!  oil!  on  a  1  wo 
month-'  vo\au'c  of  exploration,  ami  find  on  hi-  r.  turn  lh«-  i  x- 
p. dition  -'ill  inta't  and  -a!'.-.  (  )n  repn-i-ut  m_r  lhe-cidia-to 
!,-,••  ,  inp.  p.r.  IP-  and  hi-  i-hi-  t-  a  -UP  d  Sianl.  \  that  t\\o  thoij-aml 

Inei,  \\,[e  .it:,|'!\  •  llMi'  i'  lit  ,  a-  Kabba  li'--ja  \\o!|ld  li"t  dale  to 
i,  j'f  a  ;..  ii  a  -a in-!  t  lie  \\  a.  -ni'la,  I  ••  '  an  -•  |i  u  a  \,'  \It--a  w  ho 
i)(,j  -.  ,v.j  K.ibb.i  I,'.  •,  on  the  throne  of  Kamra-i.  Thoii-h 
i,,,t  iiiiit--  c,iii\  in'-' d  with  th'-  a-  uraii' e-  M'e  a  ;/av  him  that 


PALE-FACED    TIM  UK   OF    NATIVKS.  727 

there  wotdd  be  no  trouble,  Stanley  entreated  him  no  further, 
but  accepted  thankfully  (Jeneral  Samboo/i  and  two  thoii-and 
men  as  escort. 

The  march  across  Uganda,  west   and  northwest,  was  uninter- 
rupted by  any  event  to  mar  the  secret  joy  Stanley  felt  in  bein-4 
once  more  on  the  move  to  new  fields  of  exploration.      The  parts- 
made  a  brave  show  of'  spears  and   gunn  while;   marehing  aero- 
the  easy  swells  of  pastoral  western  I'ganda. 

Having  arrived  at  the  frontier  of  ("nyoro,  they  made  all  war- 
like preparations,  and  on  .January  5  entered  Kabba  IJega's  ter- 
ritory. The  people  fled  before  them,  leaving  their  provision-; 
in  their  haste  behind  them,  of  which  was  made  free  u.-e.  <  )n 
the  Dth  they  camped  at  the  base  of  the  tremendous  mountain 
called  Kabuga,  at  an  altitude  of  5,500  feet  above  the  sea.  Ka.-t 
of  the  low  ridge  on  which  they  camped,  the  Katon^a  river  was 
rounding  from  the  north  to  the  east  on  its  course  toward  Lake 
Victoria,  and  west  of  the  camp  the  Kusango  river  boomed 
hoarse  thunder  from  its  many  cataracts  and  falls  as  it  rushed 
westward  to  Lake  Albert.  From  one  of  the  manv  spur.-  of' 
Kabuga  they  obtained  a  passing  glimpse  of  the  king  of'  moun- 
tains, (Jambaragara,  which  attains  an  altitude  of  between  l.'J.OOO 
and  15,000  feet  above  the  ocean. 

On  the  summit  of  this  high  mountain  Stanley  came  aero--  a 
strange  pale-faced  tribe  of  natives,  complexion  almost  Kuropean, 
a  handsome  race,  some  of  the  women  bein^  singularly  beautiful. 
Their  hair  is  kinky,  but  inclined  to  brown  in  color.  Their 
features  are  regular,  lips  thin,  but  their  no-e-,  though  well- 
shaped,  are  somewhat  thick  at  the  point.  Several  of  their  de- 
scendants are  scattered  throughout  I  nyoro,  Ankori  and  Iluanda, 
and  the  royal  family  of  the  latter  powerful  country  are  di-tin- 
guished  hv  their  pale  complexions.  The  tjtieen  of  Sa-ua  i-iand-, 
in  the  Victoria  Nyanxa.  is  a  descendant  of  thi-  tribe. 

Whence  came  this  singular  people  Stanley  wa-  unable  to  as- 
certain, bevoiul  a  clew  which  lit  mention-,  vi/..  that  the  lii-: 
kini;  of'  Kisbakka,  a  country  to  the  southwest,  wa- 
whose  scvmetar  is  .-till  pre-e^ved  with  uivut  revert 
present  reigning  family  of  l\i-bakka. 

The  mountain  i-  an  extinet  volcano,  and  on  the  -uiniiiit  i-  a 
crystal  clear  lake  about  five  hundred  vard-  in  !•  n-th,  tV"in  tin/ 


723  FOK<T.I>  TO  m:ri  I:N  TO  r 

<vntre  i-f  which  rise-  a  column-like  rock  t<>  a  great  height.  A 
rim  of  Jinn  rock,  like  i\  wall,  surround*)  tin-  -nmmit,  within 
which  a  IT  -evral  village,  where  the  chief' of  tin-  singular  tnlx- 
and  hi-  |>cople  re-ide. 

Tin-  lir-t  king  of  I'nvoro  gave  them  the  land  ar«»nu<l  the  has*' 
of  ( iamharagara  mountain,  wherein  through  nianv  \  ii-i.— it  tides 
tin  v  havr  continued  t«>  roidi'  for  ivnturif-.  <  >n  tin-  apjiroarh 
of  an  invading  ho>t  tln-v  ivtr<-at  t«>  the  summit  tiJ'tlu-  mountain, 
tli'-  int<'ii-«'  o'ld  «>f  which  ddic-  the  m<»t  dftcnniiu-d  <>i  their 
fin-mil-.  Two  v<-ar>  ag»  KinjH?ror  Mt«->a  dcspatcluil  hi-  primr 
mini-icr  \\iih  a'.x'iit  <>nc  hundred  thousand  nu-n  to  ( lanjluiragura 
ami  I'-itnirora;  Kill  though  tin-  <j[rc:it  p-iu-ral  «'f'  I'^anda  oivu- 
j>ird  the  .-loin's  ami  iiMviidril  t«>  a  givat  height  in  jmr-nii.  he  \\a.s 
(•'iinjx-lli-d  l>v  the  inclement  climate  to  dc-ecnd  \\ith"iit  having 
captured  more  than  a  lew  hla«  k  >lave<,  tin-  pah -I'ac.  d  triho 
having  rrtn-at«l  to  their  imprfgnahlu  t'orin---  at  the  -nnunit. 

A  t'riea  is  certainly  the  "  haunt  of  light-heatleil  i'ahle,'  romaixv 
and  -nper-tili«n  ;  hut  still  there  CM-I-  -mne  modicum  <•('  truth 
in  all  the  statement.-  an<l  revelations  <>('  the  -impie  native-. 
Ali"Ut  t«'tir  V'  ar-  pivvioii-  to  tlii-,  when  exploring  the  Tan- 
ir:in\'ika  with  Livingstone,  thcv  heard  there  existed  a  race  of 
\\iiite  in. -ii  north  oj'  l'/.i^«i.  At  that  time  Living-tone  and 
Sian!<-v  -milMl  at  the  ali.-iirditv  "I  a  \\luie  |(cuple  living  in  (lie 
h'.ii!  <>f  A  t'riea;  l>ut  here  Stanley  actnallv  ^a\\  them,  ami  di-- 
(Ti\-er<  1  the  truth  «\'  the  report. 

Thi-  di-'-'iVerv  i-  nt'  V' i  \  'jreat  inte|-i-f  in  an  ethnological 
IN  pin!  i .(  \  •  ;i  \\ ,  e-tal  ili-hin^  tin-  laej  that  there  are  a*>  man  v  dif- 
t-  r-  nt  t\  p-  -  ft'  t  If  A  !  Vie:  in  f:i:iii!v  in  A  fri<  a  a-  I  h>  r«-  an  •>!'  I  he 
(  'an-  :i-i.iii  raee  in  Kun  ']>'  . 

A  It' r  I'  i\'iiej  t  he  <  iamiiara'/a!  a  in  I'Mit.nn  and  it-  pale-taeed 
inlin' .it  int-,  Slan'.ev  pi-neiralid  t  hr>  >n  ,rh  i  h-1  I  n\nr<i  e..nntr\'  t" 
ih'-  !.-.|-'|.  r-  i.f  tie  I.:ike  All"  rt,  lint  liihliiej  it  nlterU  imp' >—i  • 
1 1|.  .  !  l,i-'  .uj  h  the  ill -f« -mi nn •< I  '  «p|i.  i-it  s.  >n  "I  lh''  n:it  ivi  -.  t<  i  pn  •  •iin- 
aiiN  i-..:ii"  -,  In  v.  :i-  lofei  d  t«i  i'-  I  in  ii  ''i  1  L'anda,  to  di-eu\  cr  other 
l-'-ut'  aii'l  eotintri'--  ni'ip1  aim  itaMe  !•>  r<  .i-"ii  and  "p>  n  I" 
iVi-nd!'.  ;•;!!-  t  hail  h"-'  i  l>  I  a  •>  "»'"  "''  HP  -"I  n  .;  i !  .!••  \n!,»n. 

'I    !  •     ra  pi  i  leal      kll"\\  I'  d  J>'     aeijllll  '  d    l'\     their    |i>relli|e    |lt|-)l 

t'i  t  IP  \  ]  ii<  :  t  \  \  .in/a  \\  a-  "t  1  K>  h  i.di-  - 1  I  MI  p<  >i  I  all'  <•.  and  \\  •  1 1 
n  p.tid  ^t.inh  \  ,  even  t  li..n.;h  in  l!i'  -iid  h'  \\  a-  t'-.r. -.-d  t<>  r«  I  urn. 


A    LAND    OK    WnNDKIiS.  7_M.) 

The  lay  of  the  plateau  separating  tin-  great  re.-*Tvoir>  "1  th<- 
Nile,  tin;  Victoria  and  Albert  Nyan/a-,  tin-  structure  of  the 
mountains  and  ridges,  and  the  course  of  the  water-hi -d-,  and  the 
Course  of  the  rivers  Katonga  and  RusatiL'o  have  I  wen  n-\<-a!i-d. 
The  great  mountain  (iamltaragara  and  its  singular  jM-nple  have 
been  discovered,  Ix'sulcs  a  portion  o|'  a  gulf  «il'  the  A  ll>< -rt,  which 
Stanley  called,  in  honor  of  Her  Koval  lli^hne-.-  I'rinee-.s 
lieatrice,  licatriee  (lulf. 

Thi.s  gulf,  almost  a  lake  of  it-elf,  is  funned  by  the  pnirnon- 
tory  of  I'sonj^oni,  which  runs  ><>inhuc>t  >ome  thirty  mile.-  from 
a  point  ten  geographical  mile-  m>rth  ol*  l"nvanipal\a.  The 
eastern  eo:ist  of  the  gulf  is  formed  by  the  countries  of  Iranipira, 
Unvampaka,  Buhnju  and  Mpororo,  which  coast  line  run-  a 
nearly  .south-southwest  conr-e.  Ik-tween  Mpororo  and  I'-un- 
gora  extend  the  islands  of  the  maritime  State  nf  I'tnmbi.  \\e-t 
of  Usongora  is  Ukonju,  on  the  xvi-tcni  coast  of  Lake  Albert, 
reputed  to  be  peopled  bv  cannibal.-.  North  of  I'konju  i.-  tin- 
great  country  of  l'le<r^a. 

Coming  to  tlu-  eastern  coast  of  Lake  Albert  we  have  Ruanda 
running  from  Mpororo  on  the  ea>t  to  I  konju  on  the  \\'e-t,  <•<•- 
eupving  the  whole  of  the  xuitli  and  southeast  eoa-t  »\  Lake 
Albert.  North  ot'  I'nvamjKika,  on  the  ea.-t  >ide,  i-  Irangara, 
and  north  of  Irangara  the  district  of  Toro.  I'liynro  m-.-npies 
the  whole  of  tlu-  ea.-t  side  from  the  Murcliison  l-'all-  of  the 
Victoria  Nile  to  Mpororo;  for  I'nyampaka,  Toro,  IJulmju  and 
Irangara  are  merely  districts  of  I'nyoro.  '1  he  great  promon- 
tory of  r-onu'ora,  which  half  -hut-  in  Ueatrice  (Julf.  i-  tribu- 
tary to  Kabba  Rega,  though  governed  by  Nyika,  kiin:  of 
(Jamliaragara. 

Fson^-ora   is  the   ^rreat   salt    Held  whence  all  the  .-urronnd ing 
countries  obtain  their  salt.      It  i-.  from  all  a-voiiut-,  a  v  ry  land 
of  wonder-,  but    the   traveller   de-irou-  of  exploring   it    -hoiild 
have  a   thon-and    Sniders   to   j.rot.'.-t    him,  t;>r   the  native-, 
those  of    Ankori.   care    tbr     nothing    but    milk    and          :.-kiu-. 
Amontr   the  wondei>   cr«-dited    to    it    are    a   mountain    • 
''tiro   and    stones,"    a    .-alt    lake  of  considerable    cxteiit.--vi-r.il 
hills  of  rock  -alt,  a  large   plain   <  ncm-ted  thi.- 
alkali,  a  breed  of  very  'large  do- 
a  race  of  such  lon^-le^'jed  native-  that  ordinary  mortal-  n  _ard 


A    TUIHK    OF    MILK-MISKKS. 


them  with  surprise  and  awe.  The  Wagantla,  who  have  invaded 
their  country  for  the  sake  of  booty,  ascril>e  a  cool  courage  to 
them,  again-t  which  all  their  numbers  and  well-known  cxpert- 
iie-s  with  -hield  and  spear  were  of  little  avail.  They  are.  IH-- 
-id'--.  extremely  clannish,  and  allow  none  of  their  tribe  to  in- 
ti-nnarrv  with  -tranters,  and  their  diet  con>i>ts  >olely  of  milk. 
Their  ^ole  occupation  consists  in  watching  their  cow-,  of  which 
they  have  an  immense  number;  ami  it  wa>  to  capture  some  of 
the-e  hi  ril-  that  the  Kmperor  of  Luanda  sent  one  hundred 
thon-aiid  men,  under  his  prime  minister,  to  I'songora.  The 
expedition  wa-  sun-essful,  lor  by  all  account-;  the  Waganda  re- 
turned to  th'-ir  country  with  about  twenty  thousand;  but  s> 
d'-arlv  were  they  purchased  with  the  lo-s  of  human  lite,  that  it 
i-  d»ubtful  whether  Mich  a  raid  will  again  IK'  attempted  to 
I  '-oiiLrora. 

When  Stanley  -cut  oil  his  third  letter,  he  was  encamped  on 
Lake  Albert,  in  1  "nvatnpaka,  situated  in  longitude  ol  deg. 
'J I  min.  •".<>  -•<-.,  and  latitude  'J."i  min.  The  jtroinontory  ol 
I '-oii'j-ora,  due  we-t,  wa-  about  fifteen  mile-  distant. 

The  next  I'-tt-T  i-  dat'-d  March  lM,  IsTo,  iVoin  Kal'urro,  an 
Arab  depot  near  Iviimainka's  capital,  Karagwe,  and  relate-  the 
-t'-rv  of  hi-  final  departure  iVoni  I'tranda.  l"p"ii  arriving  at 
Kara-^we,  through  the  kindness  of  the  kin^r  "t  Karagwe,  liu- 
mainka,  he  was  enabled  to  explore  the  frontier  of  K  a  raj;  we  as  far 
north  a-  M|M»n»ro,  and  -oiith  to  l'j;ufu.  The  \aeht  "  Lady 
Alice"  \\a-  conveyed  to  SlM-ke  s  Lake  \\indermere,  and  the 
!-eetion-  H-re\ve<j  togi-tlier,  and  after  circumiKivigatiii^  th«-  lake, 
tin  v  entei-i-d  the  Kagt-ra  river,  when  it  almo-t  immediately 
fli-h-d  aero--  Stanley's  mind  that  lie  had  maile  another  grand 
di-eoverv  that  lie  had  di-coyered,  in  fact,  the  tru>-  parent  of 
:he  \'i«-toria  Nile. 

\  -1  -ui'-e  at  Speki-'-  map  \\ill  -hov,  th<-  rcad.-r  that  he  cal!- 
•  i.-  nv'1!'  th'-  Kitantfiile  r\\<  r,  and  that  he  ha-  \\\»  tributaries 
ni:initr_'  to  it,eallei|  re-peet  ively  th«'  I  ,11' 'hn  !"o  a  i)' 1  the  In_'-/i. 
>|"k'-,  ">i  wonderfully  cornet,  with  a  mind  \\hidi  ^ra-p--d 
f  "/r.i  phi'-al  k  IP  c.\  N  •<].:>•  svilh  '/r«-at  acuteiie--.  and  arran-^i-d  the 
il-'.ii!-  •.-.  itli  e!'  \-er  pfi'i'i-ion  and  a'-i-nrai-v,  Stanl'-\  think-  ii 
••<  r  ion-  !\-  m  em  -r  in  ea'l  in-j  tin-  noble  ri  \  <  r  K  it  an^n  !•-.  N  i  it  her 
\\'a.:.tii'  I  i  imr  \\':oi\ -iMil.-i  kn-e\  it  l.\-  that  irnn--,  but  ihrv  all 


KXI»LOIUN<;  Tin:  K.UJKUA  HIVKK.  7*1 

know  the  Kagera  river,  which  flows  near  Kilangnlc.  From  its 
mouth  to  lTruudi  it  is  known  by  the  native-,  on  both  banks  ^ 
the  Kagera  river.  The  Luchuro,  or  rather  Lukaro,  m<-ans 
"higher  up,"  but  is  no  name  of  anv  river. 

While  exploring  the  Victoria  lake,  Stanley  had  amended  a 
few  miles  up  the  Kagera,  and  was  even  then  struck  with  it- 
great  volume  and  depth,  so  much  so  as  to  rank  it  as  the  prin- 
cipal afllueut  of  the  Victoria  lake.  On  this  occa-ion  h<- di~ 
covered  on  sounding  that  it  was  fifty-two  !!•<•(  deep,  and  liftv 
yards  wide.  Proceeding  on  his  voyage  up  the  river  fl.r  three 
days,  he  came  to  another  lake  about  nine  miles  in  length  and  a 
mile  in  width,  situate  on  the  right  hand  of  the  stream.  At  the 
southern  end  of  this  lake  they  came  to  the  island  of  I 'nvamnbi, 
a  mile  and  a  half  in  length.  Ascending  the  highest  point  on 
the  island,  the  secret  of  the  Kagera  or  Inge/i  was  revealed. 

Standing  in  the  middle  of  the  island,  he  perceived  it  was 
about  three  miles  from  the  coast  of  Kara<_rwe  and  three  mi!e- 
frotn  the  coast  of  Kishakka  west,  so  that  the  width  of  the  In^'/i 
at  this  point  was  about  six  miles,  and  north  it  stretched  asvav 
broader,  and  beyond  the  hori/on  green  papyri  mixed  with  broad 
gray  gleams  of  water.  lie  discovered,  after  further  exploration, 
that  the  expanses  of  papyri  floated  over  a  depth  of  from  nine 
to  fourteen  feet  of  water ;  that  tin1  papyri,  in  fact,  covered  a 
large  portion  of  a  long,  shallow  lake ;  that  the  river,  thoii-h 
apparently  a  mere  swift  flowing  bodv  of  water,  confined  appar- 
ently within  proper  banks  bv  dense,  tall  fields  of  papvri.  ssa-  a 
mere  current,  and  that  underneath  the  papyri  it  supplied  a  lake. 
varying  from  five  to  fourteen  miles  in  width,  and  about  ei^htv 
geographical  miles  in  length. 

( )n  exploring  the  Ka-jvra  throughout  its  entire  length  .eij 
miles\  Stanley  found  that  it  maintains  almost  the  -ame  v»lu';, 
and   almost    the  same  width,  discharging   it-   surpln-  water-  to 
the  riirht  and  to  the  left  as  it  flow-  on,  fi-edm_r.  bv  mean-  of  the 
underground  channels,  what  mi^ht  be  called  bv  an  observ 
land,  seventeen  separate  lake.-,  but  winch  are  in  ivahtv 
connected    together    underneath    the    field-   of    paps  ri 
lagoon-like    channels    meandering   tornum-lv    en^i^h 
detached  field-  of  the    mo-t    prolific    reed.       1  IH-   open 
of  water  are  called   bv  the  natives  so  manv  "  rwerus  " 


:    HOT   spKINtJS   OF    ML.UtATA. 

the  lapM>tis  connecting  thetu  and  the  roo<l-oovcrwl  water  are 
known  l»v  the  nameo!'"  Inpezi."  N\  hat  Sj>eke  has  stvle<l  I^ike 
\\  indermere  is  one  of  the?*'  rwi  rus,  and  is  nine  mile-  in  extreme 
length  and  from  one  to  three  mile-  in  width.  Bv  lxtilin<r  |x>int 
Stanlev  a-eertained  it  to  lie  at  an  altitude  of  .'>,7U<>  l»vt  ahove 
the  o<  em.  and  ahoiit  -I'JO  feet  ahove  Lake  Victoria.  The  extreme 
north  point  of  this  -insular  lake  i-  north  l>v  ea.-t  from  I'himha 
>outh  :  it-  extreme  southern  point,  Kara^we,  oeeu|)ies  the  whole 
uf  it-  ea-t'Tii  -id'-.  Southwe-t  it  is  bounded  l>y  Ki-hakka,  \ve.-t 
l>v  Muvari,  in  Kuanda,  northwest  l>v  Mporoni,  aiul  northeast 
l>v  Ankori.  At  the  jioiut  where  Ankori  lace-  Kara^we,  the  lake 
eontrart-.  l>e.-om>--  a  tumultuous,  noi-v  river,  create-  whirlpools 
and  da-lie-  it-.-If  madlv  into  foam  and  -prav  auain-t  oppo.-iiiL; 
riM-k-.  and  linailv  roll-  over  a  wall  of  rock  ten  or  twelve  fret 
deep  \\itii  a  t ivniendoii-  uproar — for  which  the  natives  call  it 
Mofon.'o.  «,r  the  Noi-y  Fail-. 

<  >n  returning  Irom  hi-  vova;_re  of  explorati«»n.  he  re-olved  on 
an  overland  joiirnev  to  the  hot  -prin^r-  of  Mlatrata,  which  have 
obtained  -ueji  renown  throughout  all  the  nei;;hlx»rin<£  countries 
tor  t!i'-ir  healing  prop* -rtie-.  1  wo  ilavs'  severe  marehini;  to- 
ward- tin-  north  hroti^ht  them  to  a  deep  wooded  -jor^e  wherein 
tli"  hot  -priii'.'-  are  -ituai.d.  Mere  thev  di-roveretl  a  nio-t  a-- 
toa:-!iin_r  \ari'-!%  of  plan:-,  h-  rl»-,  tree-  and  I'ti-he-;  for  lure 
Nature  wa-  in  her  iii"-t  pmlilie  mood.  She  -hot  forth  her  pro- 
du.-t-  -.\ith  -ueh  vi^or  tliat  ea--h  jilaut  -.•••nn-il  to  -tran^le  the 
oth-  r-  for  lark  of  room.  'I  h«-v  -o  .-lamliered  o\'«  r  one  another 
that  -mail  hill-  of  Kru-li  wej-e  formed,  the  lo\\t-t  in  the  heap 
-titl-d  :.y  tii"  upp1  rmo-t,  and  tliroiijli  th--  he:«p-  thii-  formed 
till  1'ivnl.  -  -hot  |..rlii  a:i  arrou'-  Il;_ht  into  the  upper  air.  with 
•jloii.-  ot'  radiant,  Lri''-'-n  folia _re  upon  th.  ;r  -tern-like  ep>\\  n-. 

Tii  -p::nj-  uep-  vi-it'-d  at  the  time  of  Stanlev'-  vi-it  1>\- 
i-'d  p«  r-on-.  Male  and  femali*  \veri-  -een  lvi:;_r 
!y  in  t!.e  hot  poo'-  halt'a-letp,  \\hile  th-ir  itchv 

l.odie,    \Ve,-e    I  .,    i  I,  _'     half  Cooked.         'J'lle    hotte-t     j--;,     d 

'•la   i!|e  I'.t-'    o|    a  ior!.\    h:il.  and  \\li'  !i    I'ahreiihi  it  - 
v\a-   jilf'd   in   t  h-    uat'T,  the    nn  rnu  \    r«,-e    to     1'J't 
•  iir     -j'i.n_'-     !u!-''!.d      upnard      from     tin-     •.•i-oimd 
pili    o(    dark,  ninddv    -••dtuii-nt,  and    had  a    1>  mp'  r- 

1     d'_M"-.         Th,   -••      \\e|e      th"      Illo-t      faV-'P-d      1'V     till.' 


ox  TIIK  MA  urn  TO  rjur.  7;;;> 

natives,  and  tho  curative  reputation  of  tin-  springs  was  ba*<-d 
on  the  properties  of  this  water. 

Stanley  nays  he  camped  there  for  three  days,  ami   made  J'P 
use  of  a   reserved  spring,  hut  excepting  unusual  eleaulim— -.  I..- 
OOlild   not  conscientiously  say  that   he  enj<»yed  anv  In -m-fit    fn.m 
the  water. 

Having  thoroughly  explored  the  vallev  of  the  river  Kagera, 
noting  and  locating  the  minor  lakes,  mineral  -print:-,  and  other 
features  of  the  topography  of  this  hitherto  unknown  region,  and 
after  completing  a  map  of  the  Victoria  Nyan/a,  which  will 
prove  one  of  the  most  important  contribution-  ,.V(.r  |,1;i(|t.  I(, 
geographical  science,  solving,  as  it  docs,  one  of  its  greatest  pn-b- 
lems,  Stanley  commenced  hi>  southward  march  to  I'jiji,  on 
Lake  Tanganyika,  the  place  where  he  was  so  fortunate  as  to 
discover  the  long-lost  Livingstone. 

o  o 

lie  left  the  capital  of  Karagwc  with  brave  intentions  and  high 
aspirations.  He  had  discovered  that  the  Kagera  river  formed 
a  great  lake  about  eighty  miles  in  length  and  from  five  to  four- 
teen miles  in  breadth,  and  that  at  Kishakka  the  Kagera  wa< 
still  a  powerful,  deep-flowing  river,  and  curious  reports  from 
natives  and  Arabs  had  created  curious  ideas  within  hi-  mind 
as  to  the  source  of  this  noble  river.  Imbued  with  the  thought 
that  by  journeying  a  .sufficient  distance  along  it.-  right  bank  he 
might  discover  this  source,  he  made  ample  preparation-  for  the 
crossing  of  a  wide  wilderness,  packed  ten  davs'  ;»rovi-ion.-  of 
grain  on  the  shoulders  of  each  man  of  the  expedition,  and  on 
the  27th  of  March,  1S7»>,  set  out  for  the  uninhabited  land. 

After  travelling  tor  six  days  he  reached  I'bimba,  the  frontier 
of  Karagwe,  where  behind  a  ridge  \\hich  extend-  between 
Ubimbiv  and  the  lake,  he  saw  the  extreme  -oiith  end  of  the  lake 
he  had  s-o  long  followed,  and  noticed  a  decided  change  in  the 
formation  of  the  broad  vallev  of  the  Kagera. 

The  mountainous  ridges  bounding  the  \\cstern  >hore  of  the 
Kagera,  which,  extending  from  Mpomro  -otith,  continue  on  n 
south  by  west  course,  became  broken  and  eonf'u-'-d  in  -outherii 
Kishakka,  and  were  penetrated  from  the  nort  li\\  e-t  hv  a  \\id-' 
valley,  through  whieh  i.-sucd  into  the  Kagera  a  lake-like  river 
called  Akanvaru.  Southwest  wa,-  >een  the  course  of' the  Kagera, 
which,  above  the  confluence  of  the  Akanvaru  with  it.  wa-  only 
43 


7"l  ANnTHKtt    I.ONC-LE<;«En    TRIBE. 

a  swift-flowing  river  of  no  very  p*eat  depth  or  hr.-adth.  Such 
:i  river  inL'ht  well  be  created  l>y  the  drainage  of  Ka<tern  l.'rundi 
ami  Western  I'bba.  His  attention  was  drawn  from  the  Kagera 
tu  tin-  lake-like  -tream  til"  Akanvaru,  and  several  natives  stated 
to  him  while  I'M, kin::  toward  it  that  it  was  an  diluent  of  the 
Kairera,  and  that  it  emptied  into  the  All>ert  Nvau/a.  Such  an 
extraordinarv  -tatement  a-  this  eould  mot  be  received  and  trans- 
mitteil  a<  a  fact  without  Iw-in^  alile  to  corroborate  it  on  his  own 
autiioritv,  and  exploration  of  the  mouth  of  the  Akanvaru  proved 
that  th«-  Akanvaru  i-  not  an  diluent,  hut  an  atlliii-nt  of  the 
Kairera. 

Ilrvond  the  mouth  of  the  Akanvaru,  Stanley  found  it  \v;u* 
inip'»--il)lc  fur  him  to  <r°,  owin^  to  the  determined  hostility 
and  op|>o-jtion  <>f  the  natives  on  the  ri^ht  aixl  left  hanks  of  the 
ri\vr.  '1'hi-v  ar«  a  |oiii;-le^ire<l  race,  akin  to  tho-r  Inujr-lo^tfl 
murtal-  <>t  liumhireh  to  whom  allusion  has  already  Ix-rn  made, 
and  liki-  tln-ni.  thi-ir  aver-ion  to  strangers  is  exe»>>sive.  They 
aiv  -u  d;-»-ad!ully  afraid  ot'  lo»in<^  tln-ir  cattle  that  it'  one  cow 
die-  fr-'in  -ickiie--,  the  whole  coiintrv  i-«  searched  to  di-'-ovrr  the 
-tra i i_f'f  \\lio  has  l-exvitched  the  cow  to  death,  for  who-r  loss, 
it'  one  i-  t'iiiii'1.  hi-  life  i-  forfeit  to  the  purblind,  small-brained 
native-. 

Human  liein-j-  frequently  a<toni-!i  one  another  in  all  coun- 
ti'ie-  b\  their  hnl>l)ics.  And  bv  -huwinj-  i  \ei--ive  fondne--  for 

Un»!d.  llui-'  -.  du_'-,  rat-,  clulhe-,  bird-.  '    <\    but  the   love  which  the 

\\':i-uuj«ir;i.  \\  an\'ankori,  \\a-Uuanda,  \\a-Ki.-hakka.  \\  a^'afu, 
\\'anvaml»a  and  \\atn-i  exhibit  for  th'-ir  cattle  i-  an  extreme 
-••lti-h  :ni'i  nu-er-like  atle<-tion.  A  -tranter  mitrht  die  in  ;mv 
i>!'  id..-.'  euiintrie-  |'..r  l^i-k  ul'  one  ilrop  i.f  milk.  <  icnepiux  and 
-wi-et-temp'-reil  a-  Kumainka  proved  him-e!t',  h,-  never  offered 

to  -jive  Stanley  i-yen    um-    t- a-j nlul  o|    milk    during    the   time 

h-  s\  a-  '.\ ! th  him,  and  had  h«-  _-i  >  -  n  him  a  m  1 1 1  -  -an  in-  people 
would  h v. •••  t"rn  him  limb  li..m  limb.  Krum  ihi-  e\ec--ive 


nvain' 


SfMMAKY    OF   STANI.KYS    l>\<<  •  A'KUI  KS.  ~?»t 

wo/.i,  April  LM,  1*7<J,  about  fifteen  day-'  jntinn  v  from  1'jiji, 
whither  IK-  had  pnx-eeded,  having  been  forced  ID  abandon  the 
exploration  of  Lake  Albert  from  this  Mile  <.f  tin-  Tanganvika. 
"NVIiat  he  then  proposed  to  do  was  t<>  proceed  ipiieklv  to  Ijiji, 
explore  the  Tanganyika  in  hi-  boat,  and  from  I'/i^o  strike 
north  to  the  Albert,  and  if  that  road  be  not  open,  to  en.--  t),,. 
Tanganyika  and  travel  north  l>v  a  circuitous  conr-e  to  effect  the 
exploration  of  the  Albert. 

The  following  brief  summary  of  the  valuable  inlimnatioii 
acquired  by  Stanley  during  this  important  exploration  cannot 
fail  to  be  of  interest  to  all  concerned  in  the  matter  of  African 
discoveries. 

From  a  ridge  near  Mtagata  Hot  Spring,  having  an  altitude 
of  f>,.r)00  fi'et  above  the'  ocean,  he  obtained  a  view  ot'  I  t'limbiro 
mountains,  which  have  a  height  of  about  1*2,000  feet.  This 
group  consists  of  two  su^ar  loaf  cones  and  a  lumpv  ma--,  and  i- 
situate  about  forty  geographical  miles  \ve-t-nortli\\e-t  from 
Mtagata,  and  form  a  barrier  at  that  spot  between  Mpororo  and 
Ruanda. 

The  course  of  all  the  main  riduv-  and  valleys  from  Ruanda 
to  the  Victoria  Xyan/a  ajtpear  to  be  ,-outh  bv  we.-t.  l-'rom 
Alexandria  to  the  Xyassa  lake,  the  central  portion  of  Africa 
appears  to  be  formed  into  ridges,  deep  troughs  or  ba-in-,  or 
valleys,  whose  length  is  from  north  bv  cast  to  smith  bv  \\c-t,  or 
from  northeast  to  southwest,  and  looking  at  the  course  ot'  the 
Nile  from  Lake  Albert  to  Alexandria,  the  po.-ition  of  Lak»  s 
Albert,  Tanganyika,  and  Xyas>a,  as  well  as  the  \'ict»ria  lake. 
following  the  course  of  the  Mokattcm  ranire  ot'  mountains 
through  Xubia,  Abvssinia,  (Jalla,  Ma-ai  and  I  -a^ara  :  traeinir 
the  plateau  of  Masai,  I'nyamwe/i,  I  rori,  I  bi.-a,  south  to  the 
Bechuana  countrv,  and  the  n^ader  will  peivei\-t.  that  the  general 
lay  of  almost  all  rivers,  lakes,  mountain-,  ba-in<  and  plateau-  i- 
from  northeasterly  to  southwesterly.  (  m  a  r--dueed  scale  i;  i- 
even  so  with  all  tin1  mountain  rid^vs  and  valleys  between  the 
I^akes  Victoria  and  Albert.  It  seems  a-  it'  the  thro. 
Africa  suffered  during  that  Li-i'and  convulsion  which  tore  her 
asunder,  heaved  up  these  stupendon-  rid_'e<.  and  -link  tho-e 
capacious  basins  now  tilled  with  len^thv  and  broad  e\pan*«-- 
ervstal-clear  water,  were  keenest  and  -ev-iv-:  aiumt  tii--e 


PKIVATK    I.KTTKU    FROM    STANI.KY. 

;  fop  here  the  mountains  are  liigher,  the  valleys  deeper 

and  narrower. 

From.  Mta^ata  mountain,  while  looking  toward  the  I'fum- 
bin>  com-,  there  wen-  vi-ihle  three  loftv  ritlges,  separated  l»y  as 
many  hn»ad  valhv-.  Fir-t  wa-  the  I-han^o  and  Mtivari  ridge, 
wt-t  of  tin-  K:IU"  ra  lake  and  valley,  and  we-t  of  this  were  twc, 
rid  i;e.-,  with  th-1  valKv  of  Muvari  hetween  the  two  ea-ternmo-t 
and  a  vall'-v  <>f  Ruanda  Ix-tween  the  two  wc.-tenim»-t.  Th', 
two  lattt-r  rid^o  appear  to  run  parallel  with  eaeh  other  from 
ra-t  and  we<t  ot  I "funiliiro  mountain-,  and  -hut  in  the  valley 
of  the  Ni-\awaroii'_ro  or  Xawarongo  river,  which  ri^iiiLT  in 
I't'iimliiro  iuoiintain>.  fliw-  -otith  \>y  west  iM-twi-en  Muvari  and 
Ruanda,  and  enter-  Ahanvaru  lake,  thirty  l>y  twenty  milts  in 
extent.  From  Alcanvaru  lake  i.--ue<  Akanyaru  river,  l>et\veen 
l'-_rufuand  Ki-hakka.  into  the  Kap-ra.  The  Rn^era  proper, 
eo!uiii'_r  iroin  the  >outhwe-t,  al~o  (liter-  Akanyaru  lake,  hut 
leave-  the  lake  -outli  of  I'^ufu  and  take-  a  eurve  northeasterly 
In-tween  IV'ifu  and  \\  t -t'-i'ii  I'-ui. 

\\e-t  of  Akanyaru  he  eoiiM  \z> -t  no  eertain  intelligence.  lie 
heai'd  "f  anoth'-i'  lar_re  lake  1\  in_--  \ve-t.  hut  what  connection  it 
h:i-  wiih  the  Ka-jera,  or  whether  it  ha-  anv,  he  could  not  learn 
deflnit'-Iv.  <  >ue  -aid  that  it  wa-  an  arm  of  Ltita  N/ii;e  or  I^tke 
Al!»  rt  :  a:ioth«-r  .ledari-d  it  to  !>«•  a  -ejiarate  lake. 

Th''  following  l«'tti-r  from  Stanlev  to  a  gentleman  in  thi- 
c'liintrv,  wnft'-n  in  the  freedom  of  per-onal  friend-hip,  details 
nr.i!i\  eircum-tanee-  of  hi-  exploring  life,  \\hich  mi'_rht  IK- con- 
-idereil  U-neatli  im-mion  in  a  ne<,\ -paper  eorrc>pondene<',  hut 
which  an-  -Aai'llv  th--  lhiir_r-  of  int.-n--i  \»  nm-t  ivadiT-.  Fvcrv 
one  would  like  to  know  all  the  minutre  "f  Stanlev'-  dailv  life. 
\\  ••  then-fore  ;/ivc  m  hi-  o\\n  wonl-  extract-  from  tin-  plea-ant 
mi--i\'-,  \\hieh  hear-  in  e\-i-rv  lm<-  the  impiv--  «.f  hi-  adventur- 
oii-  eafeer,  and  '_ri\-«  -  a  plain,  familiar  -late-incut  of  hi-  -uiToimd- 
in_r-  : 

M  ! .  Staid'  v  write-  : 

''  k  n:i|ie!ivi  i-  a  -t  ra  •_' _r  1  i  n  •_'  vil!a;.'e  nf  mne  hut-,  twi-ntv  or 
t!iii'\  in  iiMMil"  r,  \\  hi'  har-  1'iiilt  -»:\\>  \\hat  in  I!H  f-'rinol  a 
circle,  h'd_'''l  i-ound  !A  a  f-iic.-  ,,('  th"m  t  v,  i-t-d  l"t\\e,  n  up- 

ri_'lit      -tak-    -.         >].«  te!|      -l|e||    ;|     \|lla_'e      |||      \i,ll|      I : !  Kl  _'  I  lia  t  I"!  I .    a  I  III 

!•••  t!i-     •  n'le  .,{  it  !,.  .|,.tt.  d  her-  nn. I  tin-re  w  ith  tin-  form-  ol  kid- 


STANLEY'S  CAMI»-I.IKK.  7:57 

lings  who  prank  it  with  tho  vivacity  of  kidliug-  uu<l.-r  a  li.it, 
glowing  sun.  Let  a  couple  of  warrior-  ami  a  !'.-\v  round-ln-llied 
children  be  seen  among  them,  and  near  a  tall  hut,  \\hi.-h  i-  the 
chiefs,  plant  a  taller  tree,  under  who-,  -hade  -it  a  few  «  ld«  r-  in 
council  with  their  chief.  So  much  lor  the  village.  I  am  -uro 
you  will  know  it  if  you  come  this  way.  Now  oiit-ide  the  village, 
yet  touching  the  fence,  begin  to  draw  the  form  of  a  -qua re 
camp,  about  fifty  yards  -qiiare,  each  -ide  flanked  \\Jtl,  low, 
square  huts,  niuler  the  eaves  of  which  place  a>  inanv  figure-  of 
men  a.s  you  plea-i — for  we  have  manv — and  voii  have  the  eamp 
of  the  Anglo-American  expedition  commanded  bv  voiir  friend 
and  humble  servant.  Fn>rn  the  centre  of  the  camp  vmi  mav  -ee 
the  Lake  Victoria,  or  that  portion  of  it  I  have  called  Speko 
dull',  and  twenty-live  miles  di.-tant  voii  mav  .-ee  table-topped 
Magita,  the  large  island  of  I'kerave,  and  toward  the  northwe-t 
a  clear  horizon,  with  nothing  between  water  and  .-kv  to  mar 
its  level.  The  surface  of  the  lake,  which  approaches  to  within 
one  hundred  yards  of  the  camp,  is  much  milled  just  at  prc-ent  with 
a  northwest  breeze,  and  though  tiie.-nn  i-  glowing  hot  under  the 
shade  it  is  agreeable  enough,  >o  that  uobodv  per.- pi  res  or  i- 
troubled  with  the  heat.  You  must  under.-tand  that  there  i-  a 
vast  difference  between  New  York  and  (Vntral  African  h<-at. 
Yours  i.s  a  sweltering  heat,  begetting  languor  and  thir-t:  <>ur- 
is  a  dry  heat,  permitting  activity  and  action  without  thir-t  or 
perspiration.  If  we  exposed  ourselves  tu  the  sun  we  would  li-el 
quite  as  though  we  were  being  baked. 

"Come  with  me  to  mv  lodgings  now.  I  lod^v  in  a  hut  but 
little  inferior  in  -i/.e  to  the  chief's.  In  it  i-  -toivd  the  liiLrur:i_re 
of  the  expedition,  which  tills  one-half.  It  i-  about  -;\  ton-  in 
weight,  and  consists  of  cloth,  beads,  wire, -hells,  ammunition, 
powder  barrel-,  portmanteaus,  iron  trunk-,  photographic  ap- 
paratus, scientific  iiiMnunent-.  pontoon-,  section-  of'  boat,  etc., 
etc.  The  other  half  of  the  hut  i.-  my  -!«•.  pim:.  dining  and  hail 
room.  It  is  as  dark  as  pitch  within,  for  b^ht  cannot  p.  ]\>  \r.i:>- 
the  mud  with  which  the  wood  work  i-  liberally  daubed.  '1  iic 
floor  is  of  dried  mud.  thicklv  covered  with  du-t.  which  bre.-d- 

fleas  and   other  vermin,  to    be  a    plague   to  me  and    \»   my  j r 

dogs.  I  have  four  voiithful  Mercuric-.  «>f  i-bon  color,  a;tcn.i:ng 
me.  who  on  the  march  carry  my  per-onal  \\..apon.-ot  ..tlln.e. 


7vW  A'  Tot 'NT   OF    11ATTI.KS    Fof<JHT. 

I  do  not  need  -o  maiiv  -ervants  to  wait  on  me,  but  such  is  their 
pleasure.  Thev  find  their  reward  in  the  liberal  leavings  of  the 
table.  I>id  th'-y  not  minister  to  me  they  know  they  would 
have  to  -ub-i-t  on  their  rations,  and  black  youths  have  such 
capacitv  of  di.-ten-ioti  in  their  stomachs  that  would  shame  the 
\eri.--t  glutton  in  Kurope.  It'  I  have  a  goat  killed  for  the 
Kup'pean  me—,  half  of  it  -utliccs  for  two  days  for  us.  \Vhen  it 
be.  onie-  slightly  tainted,  mv  Mercuries  will  U-g  it  and  devour 
it  at  a  single  sitting.  .Iu-t  out-ide  the  door  of  my  hut  are  alnuit 
two  do/en  of  my  men,  squatted  in  a  circle  and  stringing  beads. 
A  necklace  ot'  Ix-ads  i-  each  man's  daily  .-um  wherewith  to  buv 
food.  I  have  now  a  little  over  one  hundred  and  .-ixtv  men. 
Imagine  one  hundred  and  -ixtv  necklaces  given  for  food  each 
(lav  for  the  la.-t  three  month-  ;  in  the  ag^re^atc,  the  -um  amounts 
to  1  1,I<M)  necklace-;  iii  a  vear  it  will  amount  to  oS.plli  neck- 
lac.'-.  A  necklace  of  ordinary  bead-  i-  cheap  enough  in  the 
State-,  but  the  expen-e  of  carriage  make-  a  necklace  here  equal 
to  about  twent v-Ii \e  cent-  in  value.  Fora  necklace  I  can  buy 
a  chicken  or  a  peck  ot  -weet  potatoe-  or  halt  a  peck  of  gram. 
I  left  the  coa-t  with  about  l< ',<  M  Hi  yard-  of  c!oi  h  w  hidi,  in  the 
State.-,  would  be  worth  about  t  \\elve  and  a  halt'  cent-  per  yard, 
or  altoL"-ther  about  S/i.iKMl  ;  the  expen-e  of  porterage  a.-  far  a- 
thi-  lake  make-  each  vard  worth  about  liftv  cent-.  Two  vard- 
ot'  c]..th  \\ill  pup-ha.-.-  a  goat  or  a  .-heep,  thirty  yard-  will  pur- 
cha-i-  an  "X,  lifte.-n  vard-  i-  enough  to  purchase  a  day'.-  ration.-, 
fbr  the  entiiv  caravan. 

"Tlie-.'  are  a  few  of  the  particular-  of  our  more  dome-tie 
ail'iir-.  Tin-  expedition  i-  now  divided  into  ei^ht  .-quad-  ot' 
tu'niv  men  cadi,  with  an  expert-need  man  over  each  -quad. 
Th--\  an-  all  armed  with  Suvd-i-'-  and  pcreu-.-ioii-lock  mii-k.  t.-. 
A  d../. -n  or  -o  of  iln  mii-t  faithful  ha\e  a  bra<-e  of  revolver-  in 
a.  Mil  i.  .n  to  t  hi-ir  oi  h<  r  arm-. 

••  \\  ,  Lav  had  four  ball!.  -  -imv  We  1.  ft  th.-  coa-t.  Tin  fn -t 
o-.-ii:;.'!  in  hum  \\ith  a  <  I-  -p-  rat-  -•  I  ot'  -avag<-.  rivalling  the 
A  | '.i'  1 1-  •  in  f'  !•"••;'  \  aii'i  determination.  Th<-  battle  I  a- ted  three 
di\-  I  |ei-t  tw.-ntv-. .IK •  men  killed.  Their  1.,-- \\a-*  thirty-live 
kill,, I  and  -..in.  I.Mii'lr-d  "r  -•  •>•- oim.l,-,  I.  T\\  j.  ••  v.  ••  ma-!''  a 
,  ].  -H,  .-..,,  i,  tlir..ii_'|i  ili-  i  r  coiintrv,  biirnitej  and  de-tr«iving 
'•\  -  i  \  filing  u  e  cam''  ac|-o-».  and  \\  "ii!d  hav<-  hi.'  <l  to  ex  term  mate 


NAIIKOW    KSCAJ'K    I'ltOM    AIMMtWH.  7'5V 

the  wretches  had  not  my  mission  reipiin-d   mv  duty  in  another 
direction. 

"On  water  we  were  as  sticec— ful  as  on  land  ;  Imt,  a-  <iod  is 
my. judge,  I  would  prefer  paying  tribute  and  making  the-* 
savages  friends  rather  than  enemies.  But  sunn-  of  the-i-  people 
lire  cursed  with  such  delirious  ferocity  that  we  an-  compel!,  d  to 
defend  ourselves,  They  attack  in  such  numhers  ;uid  -o  -nddenlv 
that  our  repeating  rifles  and  Snyders  have  to  IK-  handled  \\ith 
such  nervous  rapidity  as  will  force  them  haek  In-fore  \\e  are 
forced  to  death  ;  for  if  we  allow  them  to  come  within  forty 
yards  their  spears  are  as  fatal  as  bullets.  Ju-t  think.  I  had 
twenty-one  men  killed  in  one  day  and  hut  one  Wounded  !  The 
spear  makes  a  frightful  wound,  while  their  contemptible-look- 
ing arrows  are  deadly  weapons.  I  have  for  the  -ake  of  e\p.-ri- 
inent  sent  an  arrow  almost  clean  through  a  bullock  at  twenty 
yards,  and  the  arrow-head  is  so  barbed  and  ^a-hed  that  it':; 
man  is  wounded  a  large  piece  of  tortured  flesh  must  be  cut  <»nr 
ere  it  is  extracted.  We  had  a  narrow  escape  lately.  We  were 
but  twelve  in  our  boat's  crew,  the  savages  >everal  hundred-. 
As  they  came  down  to  attack  I  ordered  the  boat  to  he -ho\vd 
oft',  which  was  done  so  rapidly  that  with  the  impetus  thcv  hail 
given  it  they  were  themselves  carried  into  deep  water,  and  only 
myself  in  the  boat.  I  had  to  keep  the  beach  clear  of  the 
rascals,  and  I  emptied  my  elephant  rifle,  double-barrelled  -hot- 
gun  and  revolvers  at  them,  while  the  men  -warn  with  the  boat 
oft'  shore  in  a  water  infested  with  crocodiles.  .None  of  us, 
thank  fortune,  were  injured,  but  each  of'  u-  had  some  narrow 
escape  to  relate  from  whixxing  spear-  and  arrows. 

"  Speke,  in  1  SO*,  came  to  the  sonthwe-t  cud  of  Lake  Vic- 
toria, ajid  from  a  hill  near  the  lake  he  discovered  the  va-t  b"dv 
of  fresh  water.  1  laving  ira/ed  hi-  (ill  he  returned  to  Kn^land 
and  was  commissioned  to  find  it-  outlet.  In  l^o'l  and  lV(i'J  }•.<• 
marched  from  Xan/ibar  to  I'^awa,  when  he  -aw  the  lak<-  a_rain 
At  the  Ripon  I-'alls  he  saw  the  lake  di-ehar-e  it-elt'  into  the 
A  ictoria  Nile,  and  went  home  a_;'ain.  iina^niiiij  that  he  had 
done  his  \vork.  If  hi-  work  wa-  merely  to  find  th-'  outlet  of' 
I^il<e  \*ietoria.  he  completed  hi-  ta-k  :  but  if  hi-  ta-k  \\a-  to 
discover  the  sources  i.f  ih--  Nile,  he  had  but  h'-_run  h,-  Aork. 
He  went  awav  without  discovering  the  fue«lei>of  Lake  Victi^ria, 


7-10  AMOUNT    OF    WOUK    DONK. 

which  in  realitv  art-  the  Nile's  -oimv — extreme  southern  sources 

» 

I  mi-ail.  1  hen  Uaki  r  came  t<>  ( Vntral  Africa  and  discovered 
Lake  AHicrt.  lie  vnva^cd  -ixtv  miles  on  the  lake,  ami  he  ran 
home  al-n  without  knowing  anything  of  the  lake's  sources. 
Burton  went  to  Taraganika,  saw  it,  an<l  returned  home  without 
knowing  it.-  e\ti-nt,  outlet  «r  aillm-nt-.  Livingstone  came  next 
io  tin  chain  of  lakes  wot  of  Taraganika,  and  died  nobly  in 
harm---,  Wdl,  we  are  >ent  to  complete  what  the>c  several 
traveller-  have  be^un.  \\  bile  thev  are  content  with  having 
di-covt-red  lake-,  1  inii-i  In-  emit*  nt  with  exploring  these  lakes 
and  discovering  their  soiint •-,  and  unravelling  the  coni|>lications 
of  iret>«;ra pliers  at  home. 

•  O          I 

"Sinei-  I  li-tt  /an/.ibar  I  have  travelled  seven  huiidrexl  and 
tuintv  miles  li\  land  and  one  thousand  and  tour  miles  (by 
computation]  !>s-  water,  'i  his  in  >i\  months  is  goo«l  work. 
Over  one  hundred  po-itioi.-  -rtthi!  bv  a>troiiomical  observations 
—  fi-r  \MII  niii-t  know  that  lY<>tn  tin-  verv  dav  I  <^<>{  mv  diin- 
iiii--i(>n  1  strennotihly  prepantl  t<i  lit  mv-clf  i'or  gengnipliiual 
w.trk,  in  nrdi-r  that  1  mi^ht  l>e  able  in  complete  Sjn-ke,  Burton, 
Baker  and  Living-tone's  labor-,  which  the\  l.-ft  nndnne. 

••  It  i-  a  mL'hty  \\<»rk.  but  a  f-Mirih  of  it  i>  alivadv  «l(ine. 
Until  1  ean  sav  1  have  done  the  half,  1  bid  v.ui  l'arf\\rll. 

-II.  M.  SIAM.KV." 

Thi- li-tt«-r  i-  in  -<'mi'  P-|><  <•(-  tliemo-t  interesting  of  all  those 
whieh  tin-  public  ha\c  Ix-i-n  -o  IMII^  awaiting  tn>m  hi-  pen.  In 
it  Siatil'-v  niakf-  a  more  coiiden-ed  and  luetd  -talenn'iit  uf  the 
n--n!' of  hi-  gi-ii'^raphical  re-« -.nvii. •-  than  \\>-  ha- given  d-euhere 
a-  vet.  It  i-  true,  bv  i>nc  i'f  ih"-i-  -lip-  \\hidi  an-  pecnliarlv 
pri'\-"kiiiLr  fri'tn  their  ciinni  etiuii  \\  it  h  important  matt  IT-.  Stanley 
ll.rjr't-  \»  ]•>•<•<> rd  in  th--  date,,)'  lii-  1,-tti-r  tin-  li-jnri--  f'-r  the 
\-i-ar  iin-rdv  \\ritm_p  "  Mav  1!'  and  it  i-  n-'dl---  tn  -av  that 
fli.  i-.-  ar<-  M"  po-t-o|Vlce  -ta!iipiii'_r-  in  Atii^a  tn  -ilpjilv  what  is 
iui--inj.  Tli'  fa--f.-  narrated,  li'.wver,  c.  in-t  itnte  the  main 
tiling. 

^t-iidi-%  \\-ll  -av-  that  "n-i\\  ^peke'-  \\--rk  i-  d--nc."  It  \\ill 
•i.b.-p-d  tint  >p.-ke'-  alleged  di-cnvcrio  ill  ls:,s,,|':l 

;•!'  :il  !a!.'  ill  <  '•  lit  :  al  \  t'l  i'  M  .  \\  ll  ie|l  he  e<  ,||je.  1  1 1  red  ti  •  l-e  J  lie  H  a  I 
^.nr.i  ,.('  r'j.  Nile,  have  been  t)|i;  -Ilbji-Ct  n|  Illllch  i  "lit  rnVel'-V, 


WHAT    UKMAI.NH    YKT   TO    AO  OMI'I.l-M.  7JJ 

doubt,  and  oven  of  ridicule,  for  nearly  eighteen  year-.  \'.;>  \\  a 
second  visit,  by  \vhieh  Speke  saw  ili«-  outlet  of  th.-  lake  -already 
named  by  him  Victoria  Nyan/a — did  but  little  to  strengthen  hi-> 
assertions,  because  IK-  had  really  done  nothing  to  explore  tin- 
hike,  nor  did  he  follow  down  the  outlet  in  order  to  e-tab!i-h  it*- 
identity  with  the  Nile.  The  fir.-t  of  the-e  iv.pii-ite-  Stanley  ha.- 
Supplied;  he  has  thoroughly,  or  with  .-ntlicient  tln-roii-jlme-.,  for 
all  practical  purposes,  explored  Victoria  Nvan/a,  a-c,  named  it- 
size  and  its  feeders.  It,  is  thus  proved  to  he  a  |,odv  of  water 
sufficient  to  l>e  the  fountain  of  the  Nile,  mile—  it  be  regarded 
rather  as  an  enlargement  of  its  main  tributary,  \\hich  come-  up 
from  some  two  thousand  miles  to  the  southea-t.  If  Stanley 
should  never  more  be  heard  from,  should  be  pierced  by  tho.-e 
savage  arrows  from  which,  his  deadiv  "elephant  ritle"  has  so 
effeetually  protected  him  hitherto,  tin-  achievement  will  forever 
nink  him  among  the  great  explorers  and  di.-eoveivr.-  of  modern 
times.  He  proposes,  however,  much  Lcreater  adventures  and 
enterprises.  .Besides  the  Lake  Victoria  Nvan/.a.  there  are  the 
Albert  Nyanza,  the  Taraganika  (according  to  the  orthography 
of  Stanley's  letter  to  King,  but  u-uallv  written  ''Taniranyika"i, 
and  a  further  series  of  lakes  to  the  we-tward,  di>covere«l,  and 
barely  discovered,  bv  Livingstone.  All  ot'  these,  and  their  re- 
lations to  each  other  and  to  the  Nile,  if'  they  have  any,  remain 
to  be  cleared  up,  and  Stanley  is  resolved  to  undertake  the  her- 
culean work.  With  regard  to  the  old  and  ever  new  ijue-tion  of 
the  Nile,  it  may  be  stated  that  the  weight  of  evidence  is  now 
wholly  in  favor  of  Victoria  Nvan/.a  bein^  regarded  a-  it-  main 
source,  although  something  remains  to  be  done  in  tr.tc:n^  down 
the  stream  uninterruptedly  from  the  lake.  1  he  explorations 
of  Albert  Nvan/a  have  confirmed  thi-  view  by  -howini:  it  i 
not  so  larire  a  bodv  of  water  as  had  been  -nppo-eil.  and  that  it 
has  no  feeders  of  conse«picnee.  Hut  the  whole  .pustion  can 
never  be  settled  till  the  lake  re-i'ii  of  <  Vntral  Africa  i-  thor- 
oughly explored  and  mapped  out.  <  >n--  of  the  e,,n, •hiding 
paragraphs  in  the  letter  seems  to  indicate  that  Stanley  !!  pro- 
tract his  stav  in  Africa  beyond  the  time  originally  intended. 
His  theory  has  alwav-  been  that  a  whit.-  man  may  :?h  im- 
punitv  attempt  African  exploration  it'  h-  doe-  not  -ray  t"o  long 
at  a  time  in  the  country.  F^r  in.-tancc.  he  wa-  wont  t"  -ay  that 


742  TIIK    HKAl)    STUKAM    OF    THK    MI.K. 

at  (ho  Mid  of  two  years  a  man  must  go  home  anil  get  revitalizul. 
He  was  inclined  to  U-lieve  that  Livingstone  had  much  injured 
his  |M»WCI>  for  go4>d  work  by  remaining  too  long  in  Africa. 
Yet  now  In-  himself  evidently  contemplates  remaining  mueh 
more  than  two  vears,  and  doing  a  v;t-t  amount  of  work  which 
lie  had  ii(»t  originally  intended. 

From  hi.-  researches  in  that  great  tract  of  count rv  lying  l)e- 
tween  the  I>akes  AlU-rt  ami  Victoria,  it  is  itself  u  country  of 
manv  l>cautiful  lakes  and  of  lofty  mountains,  fertile  valleys  and 
plains,  inhabited  l»v  warlike  tribe.-,  of  .-avagcs,  through  who-e 
dominions  there  is  no  pax-age  to  the  intruding  stranger,  except 
at  the  head  of  a  jK>werful  armed  force. 

In  e.-talili.-hing  the  fact  that  Livingstone's  interior  sy-U-m  of 
lake-  and  rivers  doc-  not  belong  to  the  Nile  basin,  hut  is  drained 
into  the  Atlantic,  Stanley  is  of  opinion  that,  in  the  Shinieevu 
river,  ri-iii'j  below  tin-  fourth  degree  of  .-outh  latitude,  after  a 
cour-e  ot'over  four  hundred  mile-,  northward,  i.-  di-charged  into 
the  X'ictoria  Like,  \\.  hav--  tin-  i:i:.\i.  m:.u>  >TI:F.AM  OF  TIIK 
XII.E. 

It  this  were  a  -mall  .-tivam  it  might  verv  jirojH-rlv  be  re- 
jected, and  tin'  X'ictoria  lake  would  !•••  pn>noiince<l  the  foun- 
tain head  of  the  Nile  \\  ith  tin-  -aim  |H-"|iri«  ly  lliat  I^ikc  Siij.ei'ior 
i-  recogni/ed  a-  the  head  of'  the  St.  La\\rin«-.-  ri\'«-r.  l»nt  the 
Shimeevp  iK-ing  a  con-idi-rabh1  -trcam  oi'-e  ver.il  Inn  id  red  milc>  in 
length,  at  lea-t  five  hundred,  it  nm-t  U1  recogni/ed,  and  hence  its 
di-coverv  and  a>-timption  of  being  the  head  -trcam  of  the  Nile 
In-long-,  t.i  Stanlcv. 

<ut  oil'  iVoin  Livinu-toije^  l>a-iii,  tin1  drainage  of  Lake 
Albert,  \\illi  the  i  \ci-ptj. di  of  ill.-  v-'lume  from  the  X  i<  t'-ria, 
i-  eomj»arativelv  I  imiti-il,  though  it  do<  -  receive  the  e«  ml  ri  I  ml  ions 
of  mini'  j-oii-  ton.  n;~  !r»ni  the  bord<  ring  ratine  "I  mountain-  on 
the  \\(  -t,  ri-ing  at  -everal  point-  loan  altitude  of  from  x.'MH) 

V<    I","1   '  Meet    above   the    -ea. 

About  a  \\eek  afi.  r  Manle\  had  •!•  -ji.tieh.  d  hi-  la-t  Liter 
from  \\liiih  v,  e  have  .ji|ot..|  a-  al>"\e.  <  'oL'in'1  (iorilon.  >ir 
Samuel  li.il.i  r'-  -uee.--i.j-,  \\iot. •  fi-oin  l\eni.  near  tin  northern 

Mid      of     (I,.-     Ail'Mt       !aLe,      -t.ltillg      that       M.<ie--i      i,;|,l      made      ihr 

cir.  uiiin.i\  i.:.itioii  o|  tin-  lake  in  iiiin  da\  -.  finding  "  '"  be  oni> 
hundnd  and  loitv  nnL-  L-n-  b\  li'J  \  bro.id.  'I  ii-  ;•••  \\.i-  no 


THK   OCTLKT   OF    I.AKi:    A  I. !5i:nT.  TJ.'J 

tributary  of  any  imjxjrtancp,  and  no  harlmr  on  tin-  western  hide, 
which  is  formed  l»y  mountains  descending  abruptly  to  tin* 
river.  The  southern  part  is  very  shallow,  and  fringeil  \viili 
marshes  and  forests.  Their  mo-t  singular  disn»verv,  however, 
was  that  the  lake  had  two  outlets  to  the  north,  one  being  the 
White  Nile,  and  the  other  the  river  which  flowed  awav  to  the 
northwest.  Colonel  Gordon  conjectured  that  the  latter  mav 
again  unite  with  the  Nile  a  considerable  distance,  to  the  north- 
ward. He  announced  that  his  steamer  was  nearly  completed, 
and  that  he  would  soon  be  able  to  undertake  a  more  thorough 
voyage  of  exploration. 

At  the  date  of  the  last  letter  received  from  Stanley — the  'Jhh 
of  April,  1<S7() — he  had  commenced  his  .southward  march  to 
Ijiji,  on  Lake  Tanganyika,  the  place  where  he  had  been  .so 
fortunate  as  to  discover  the  long-lost  Livingstone. 

From  this  place,  which  he  expected  to  reach  in  about  fifteen 
days,  it  was  his  intention  to  move  up  Lake  Tanganyika  to  its 
most  northerly  point,  and  from  thence  cross  the  country  to  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  Albert  Nvan/a.  Having  definitely  de- 
termined the  area,  the  length  and  breadth,  the  configuration,  the 
coast  line,  the  affluence  and  outlets  of  the  great  Victoria  lake, 
and  the  character  of  the  countries  and  of  the  nuinerou-  ,-avage 
tribes  on  its  borders,  and  having  penetrated  farther  into  the 
elevated  plateau  between  the  two  great  Lakes  Victoria  and 
Albert,  than  anv  preceding  explorer,  he  ha-  now  undertaken  to 
settle  the  hitherto  undetermined  boundaries  of  the  ba-iu  of  the 
Albert  lake  and  of  the  lake  itself.  He  will  not  only  make  a 
thorough  exploration  of  the  lofty  western  shore  line  of  the  lake, 
but  will,  we  hope,  determine  the  destination  of  the  outlet  of 
that  lake  recently  discovered  by  Colonel  Gordon. 

The  outlet  found  bv  Sir  Samuel  liaker  is  the  Nile,  but  tlii- 
one  newlv  discovered  flows  westward,  and  whether  it-  e»ur-c  ;s 
continuously  westward  to  the  Atlantic,  or  around  into  the  Nile 
through  the  I>ahr-el-Gha/al,  i-  a  (|iie-tiou  -till  to  he  -ettlcd.  I; 
seems  very  probable  that  the  two  outlet-  of' the  Albert  lake  are 
the  two  arms  of  the  I'pper  Nile;  but  the  fact  remain-  to  bo 
established. 

From  I'ji'ii,  the  a.— ociation-  connected  \\ith  hi-  oM  friend, 
Livingstone,  and  of  his  untimVhed  work.  th>' 


741  THE    IDENTITY    OF   THE    M'ALABA. 

problem  of  tin-  destination  of  th«-  great  interior  river,  the  Lnu- 
lal»a,  wliieh  Livingstone  wa-  pursuing  when  overtaken  bv 
death,  inav  inlln<  nee  Stanlev  to  move  we-tward  for  tlie  pur|H>.«c 
nt'  oiiee  t-«r  a!!  -ettling  tliat  o^ie-timi.  It  may  be,  however, 
that  hi-  o\\  n  niea.-uivnn  -nt.-  of  the  alt  it  inlo  of  Lake  Tanganyika 
have  already  eouvinei-d  him  that  thai  great  interior  basin  docs 
ii"!  belong  to  the  drainage  «.l  the  Nile. 

lieutenant  (  'aim -ron,  from  his  Direful  oh-ervation.-.  has>ettle<l 
thi-  cp;'--ti<>n  ;  but  he  has  Jin:,  troni  following  the  .-in-aiu,  e.-tab- 
li-li'-d  the  faet  that  tin-  Lnalaba  i>  tin-  ( 'on^o.  1  'hi.-  is  his 
ri.nrlu-!"!!,  fpiin  the  a-e»  rlaiiH  <1  levt-l  a! H i\  <•  t h<-  M-a  ot'  t he  ri Ver, 
!>nt  it  n. av  In1  di-ehar«ietl  int'i  -onie  interior  lake  that  has  no 
•  uiti'-t,  or  it  may  pa--  into  the  Atlantic  through  a  ehannel  of  it* 
n\\  ii  nurth  "t  tin-  <  'niiu:'». 

Mii'-h  \-t  ivMiain-  unknown  a<  to  the  river.-,  vallevs,  lake<, 
niMliiitriiu-,  cliinalr  ai:d  |>  «'pl«-  of'  lai'^e  seetimi-  "i"  the  ^I'cat 
Nil.-  ba-ii:,  v.lii<-li  rinlirac'-  the  Shinieevu  river,  tin-  Yirt«>ria 
and  .  \li-r:  !ak<--,  the  Uahr  -«  l-<  i  ha/al,  \\ith  it-  inline!  mi-  t  ribu- 
tai  i---  i':i  tic-  \\i--t  -id--.  :: ;id  tin-  A-hiia.  the  S..bat.  tin-  Ulue  Nile 
and  tlir  Atbara  »r  Ulack  ri\«-r  on  tin-  ea-t  -idc.  l-'mni  all 
th«--r  -•! i n-«--  tin-  draina^i-  <if  the  Nile  iln\\  n  t"  th«  iii..uth  i-f  the 
Atl-ara  i-nver-  an  an  a  ")'  -<»IIH-  I  ,-_'M(  t_i  n  n  I  -(jiian  niili-.-.  a  ba-in 
in  i  \t- ut  -Mi-|'.i~-iii_r  that  nl'  tin-  M  i.--i--i|ipi.  h-ax'inu'  out  of  the 
i-tiiuat'-  tii'  l.ti'Ki  «r  1.711"  mile-  <>l  the  rainle.—  \all<  v  <.f  the 
I'._r\  pi  tan  1'iy-T. 

N-  \t.   "II    tin-  i-a-t     -ide  nf    the     Nile,    between    t  he   third    decree 

-••nth  ia;i;ud'-  and  the  I-  n:h  d«  uri'(  «•  ii"i'th  latitude,  i:.  »\\i-  din-e- 
ti'.n.  and  i:i  tl,--  other,  l>ef\\e»n  the  Nile  a. id  the  ehain  of 
iiioiiniaiii-  -'.hi  -h.  a  hundreil  mile-  or  mop-  IP.;.,  •],,-  ..MM,  runs 


ni'-tl\  .  -oni-  etnra!.  and  lar-_-.  blank-  :in-  1.  ft  (•  •  b.  lili-d  bvthe 
f'ltnr-  i\p!ori-r.  \\  h".  '\illiin  tlii-  \.-i-t  di-lri't.  \M-  ha\e  no 
d-.nb:  •-.  ill  Ix  r- \\arded  i>r  hi-  lal-or-  b\  tin-  ni"-t  important 
(I i-,  .  ,\ ,  ri'  -. 

\\",'l>    ^!-m!«-\'-    a'lditi'.n  "t"   t!i--   >!iim..\n.    th--    Nile    i-    no\v 


THK  OLHKST  itiVKit  IN  TIN:  woiu.it  71", 

It  drains  a  hits  in  which,  south  of  Kgypt,  is  equal  t<>  th.-  -..pport 
of  100,000,000  of  people,  from  its  wonderful  eapacitie-  in  tin- 
prod  net  ion  of  cotton,  rice,  sugar,  Indian  corn,  elephant-  ami  cattle, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  inexhaustible  .supply  of  fish  in  tin-  main 
river  and  its  tributary  lakes  and  streams. 

The  Kgyptian  Nile,  with  its  amazing  monuments  of  the  olde.«t 
civilization  of  the  human  world,  is,  next  to  the  Knphrate-,  the 
oldest  of  all  the  great  rivers  of  historv,  while  bevond  lv_rvpt, 
still  in  its  primitive  barbarism,  but  ju.-t  disdo-cd  to  tin-  out- 
side world,  the  Nile  is  the  newest  of  all  the  great  river-  of  tin- 
earth  ;  and  in  the  peculiarities  of  its  ba-in,  its  -onrco,  it- 
climate,  its  savage  tribes,  its  ancient  monuments,  IN  fruitful 
vallevs  and  howling  deserts,  in  its  constant  equatorial  -tn-am, 
and  in  its  annual  Egyptian  inundation  from  Aby-sinia,  it  i-  the 
most  wonderful  river  of  them  all. 

No  one  of  the  many  gallant  explorers  who  have  followed  in 
the  footsteps  of  the  veteran  pioneer,  Livingstone,  ha-  done  mop- 
toward  disclosing  the  interesting  secrets  of  that  mv.-terioii-  land 
which  have  so  long  baflled  the  resources  of  science  than 
Stanley. 

He  has  left  nothing  to  imagination  in  the  valuable  survcvs  h<? 
has  made;  the  various  routes  that  he  sailed  over  the  Lake 
Victoria  Xyan/a,  for  instance,  showing  how  thoroughly  he  did 
his  work,  while  a  perusal  of  his  letters  >how  at  what  terribK' 
risk. 

The  qualities  required  to  pursue  the  service  of  science  in  th>,' 
face  of  such  obstacles  as  beset  Stan  lev'.-  path  a1v,  a-  we  have 
before  said,  rarely  met  with,  combined,  in  one  man.  ^  hat  h-- 
achieved  was  won  amid  dangers  and  difficulties  of  no  ordinary 
kind. 

No  obstacles,  not  even  death  and  di.-ease  thinning  '!'•''  number 
of  his  faithful  band  of  followers,  seem  to  have  dampen,  d  ;h<  aplo;- 
of  his  /eal,  and  he  is  even  at  this  moment  -til!  pu-hir.::  on.  will: 
unabated  vit^or  and  with  his  whole  heart  -et  upon  ti 
plishment  of  the  object  of  his  mi-.-ion,  a-  though  it  \- 
he  had  resolved  that,  when  hi-  labors  are  over.  th-Te  - 
more  mysteries  iu  Central  Africa  left  for  any  future  explorer 
to  solve. 


CHAPTER   XL. 

THE  announcement  that  Henry  M.  Stanley  lias,  after  months 
of  painful  suspense,  during  which  t!ie  Bravest  fears  have  been 
entertained  for  his  safetv,  achieved  a  splendid  feat  of  geograph- 
ical exploration,  and  has  crossed  Africa  from  Hast  to  \\  c-t, 
has  produced  an  immense  sensation  in  this  country  as  well 
a*  in  Kurope.  He  has  succeeded  in  solving  the  great  Coup) 
problem.  Where  other  travellers  only  sj>eeulated  on  the  prob- 
able identity  of  the  Lualaha  with  the  Congo,  Stanley  has  put 
the  matter  l»evoiid  all  po^-iblc  doubt  l»y  following  the  river 
through  it.-  cour-e  down  toward-  the  Atlantic.  To  his  deeds 
i if  discovery  on  the  Nvau/a  and  Tanganyika,  \\  Inch  we  have 
a'.readv  recounted,  Staulev  ha-,  liv  hi-  nio.-t  recent  discoveries, 
added  a  fre-h  and  incoinparaMe  triumph  which  will  forev-r 
link  hi.-  name  with  the  hi-tory  «>f  the  continent  that  hi-  ir- 
re>i-til)le  xeal  has  done  -o  much  to  open  up  to  civilization. 
The  di-enverv  of'  the  identitv  of'  the  Lualalia  ami  ('011-40  river-, 
a  problem  which  >(>  lon^  vexed  Living-tone  and  which 
('ainer-'ii  wa-  compelled  to  abandon,  rnoilities  all  our  concep- 
tion-, of  African  ge<igraphv,  and  will  have  ni"-t  important 
ei.mmercial  and,  it  mav  be,  political  re-ult-.  The  new-  of  hi> 
arrival  on  the  we-t  c..a-t  of'  Africa  wa-  hail-d  \\ith  the  utmo-t 
enthu-ia-m  in  Kn^land,  \\hii-h  not  ev.-n  the  hori'il'le  t'a.-ei na- 
tion ot  the  \\ar  now  wa'/inij;  in  KUI'OJM-  coiihl  dampen.  A- 
-.>»!!  a-  A-_rne-  Li\-iiiLr-'"Ue  llriice.  tin-  daughter  of  I  *r.  LiviiiLr- 

-!o||e        liejird      the      Mitel  11".   Mr.-       -hr      t<   le-T:i|  ihei  1       fVoIII       I/'llll.lll 

1 

\ "aii  ,  IP  ar  Ivlinliurjh,  uli-r-  -hi-  n  -id- •-.  to  th.  \e\\  V..rlx 
//•  -•"/''  and  London  '/',/.  >jr"j, h,  nnd- r  \\ho-rau-picothi"  late-t 
a- hieveni'-nt  ha-  been  i;ain«  d  :  "  M\  h- art  i-  lill-d  \\ith  d--- 
li_'ht  and  gratitude  that  Manl-v  i-  -at--,  and  that  he  ha--"!v«d 
ili--  ( 'on.'o  probli-m."  Should  Staidi  v  •  v«  r  niich  i^ngland, 
h-  will  rn-i-ive  -ueh  a  \\-l-. .mi  ;i-  |>riti-h  heart.-  will  be  -ure. 


EXPLORATION'    OF  THK    KAGKKUA.  717 

to  give  to  one  of  the  most  successful  pioneers  of  geographical 
science,  and  every  honor  that  can  he  eonti  rred  will  ho  showered 
upon  hiin. 

In  our  1:1:4  chapter  on  the  exploration  of  Stanley,  at  hottotn 
of  page  812,  \ve  left  him  at  t'bagwe,  ii  Western  t'ny:irn\vi-/i, 
where  In:  was  encamped,  April  21th,  1*7<).  He  then  pn>po-ed 
to  proceed  with  all  possible  despatch  to  I  "jiji,  explore  tin-  Tan- 
ganyika in  his  boat,  and  from  I  /igo  Mrike  north  to  the  Alhert  ; 
and  if  he  <lid  not  find  that  road  open,  In-  proposed  to  <TO--  the 
Tanganyika  and  travel  north  by  a  eirenitoiis  eonr.-e  to  eil'eet  the 
exploration  of  the  Albert.  In  the  earlv  part  of  this  v<-ar,  tlire<- 
deeply  interesting  letters  were  received  from  him,  accompanied 
by  two  maps,  which  illustrated  the  various  routes  and  explora- 
tions he  had  made  since  the  date  of  his  last  letter  of  April 
24th,  187(5. 

These  letters  were  dated  from  I  "jiji,  on  the  7th,  10th,  and 
loth  of'  August,  1S7G,  rcspeetivelv.  After  exploring  the 
hitherto  unknown  region  between  Lakes  Yietoria  and  Albert 
X van/a,  and  discovering  the  great  river  Kair(>era,  which  flows 
into  the  Victoria  Xvan/a  from  the  southwest,  Stanlev  -tarted 
by  a  southerly  route  for  T'jiji,  the  place  forever  memorable  as 
being  where  he  first  met  Livingstone.  In  the  course  of  this 
journev  he  discovered  Lake  ^  indermere,  an  enlargement  of  the 
Kageera,  and  also  another  large  body  of  water  to  which  he 
gave  the  name  of  Kageera  Lake. 

lie  had  intended  extending  his  exploration  of  th"  I\agei  ra, 
and  its  wonderful  valley,  but  the  native-  of  th"  tv--i.ni  called 
the  Warundi  xvere  so  ferocious  and  so  hostile,  that  he  and  his 
partv  were  actually  reduced  to  the  very  verm-  ot'  -tarvatiou. 
He  was,  therefore,  most  reluctantly  compelled  to  abandon,  f-r 
a  time,  his  efforts  to  reach  the  .-"titheni  end  ••!'  Lake  A:i"Tt 
Xyanxa  ;  and  pur.-::ing  hi-  cour-e  toward-  I  j:ji,  «•[,  — .  d  into 
the  country  of  rnyamue/i.  A  :'t-  r  traver-i;iur  it-  ridLre-br..ken 
exjianse,  and  meeting  with  many  ob-;:ic!i  s  and  penlou- adven- 
tures, he  finally  reached  his  de-tination  in  .-afety. 

Here    he    fitted    together   and    launched    hi-    exjil. 
I.ady  Alice,  in  which   he  had   already  rendered 
vice   to    the   cause    of  geographical    science   on    Lake    \  ;.  torn 
Xvanxa,    and    commenced    hi-    turviy    >•!     Luke    1  anganyika. 


74S  MSCOVKKY    OF    "  1JUKTOX    CJTI.F." 

Starting  lV«>m  I "jiji,  he  made  a  complete  circumnavigation  of 
the  lake,  ami  verified  many  ol>servations  of  that  portion  which 
lie  ha<l  previously  vi.-ited  and  explored  in  company  with  IV. 
Living-ton.-. 

Stanlev,  in  tin-  codDfc  of  this  -urvev,  settled  the  question  of 
tin-  Uivi-r  I  .ii'jnka,  which  Cameron  had  eunjcrttired  was  the 
outlet  of  Lake  Tanganyika  towards  the  west,  and  into  the 
sv-teni  of'  lake-  which  form  tin-  head  waters  of  the  Lualaha,  or 
Ijomamc  of  Livingstone.  According  to  Stanlcv,  ( 'ameron  \\as 
hoth  ri^'ht  and  wroni;  with  regard  to  the  ehanirter  of  the 
Lu^uka  river.  \\  hen  Stanley  saw  it,  it  was  only  a  creek, 
running  inland  through  a  deep  depression,  which  extended 
we-tward  lor  a  L'i'eat  di.-tan<-c.  lint  the  lake,  liv  constantly  in- 
crea-in_'  it-  art  a  and  rai-inur  in  level,  will  eventually,  in  Stan- 
lev'-  opinion,  fmd  an  outlet  through  Lnpika  river. 

At  th-'  northern  end  of  the  lake,  Stanley  di-'oveivd  a  -pacioiis 
frul f,  \vhieh  he  named  and  will  IK-  henceforward  known  to 

•rco-'ratiher-    a-    "Uurton    (iulf,"    alter    the    celehnite«l    Al'ri«-an 

i 

explorer  of  that  name. 

In  hi-  -icond  letter  of  Aiiiin-t  1'Uli,  IsT"'..  Stanley  Drives 
-oine  verv  intere-tiiiL;  information  resjMi-tinjj;  the  Ka^eera  river, 
\\hieh  enij'ti'-  into  Lake  \'i--toria  N van/a  »n  it-  we-tern  >ide. 
He  co;i-i,li-r-  tlii-  river  of  va-t  importance,  a-  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal f< •' -d'  r-  of  this  'jn-at  lake.  He  conipar--  the  Shimecyu 
river,  \\hieh  tlow-  into  the  X'ietoria  N\an/a  from  the  va-t 
-\varnpv  !'•  ji'-n  -"iith'  a-t  of  the  lake,  through  \vhie!i  our  reader- 
mav  reniemli' r  he  lir-t  approaclml  it-  -h-'i-e-,  to  the  ri\er 
'I'hani'-  in  point  of  -i/e,  lint  e-ti:nate-  the  K:\'_r'era  river  to  lie 
c.jual  to  ?!:••  Tiiarne-  and  S^vtrn  ri\~er-  comhiiied,  from  which 
••oiii'-  :d- a  of'  i;-  ilimeii-ioii-  niav  !••  gained. 

'I'!,--  p'iritv  and  e.!.. r  ..f  the  water  of  Ka'_'ei-ra.  Stanley  j. 
f,f  opinio.i,  i:."!ieate  tiiat  it  ri-e-  tither  fir  to  the  \\.-t\\ard 
of  I .  'l:i!:_-an\  ika.  or  that  it-  coiir-c  mn-t  !"•  mtcrrnpted 
}•:•  a  l.i!,e.  \\h-re  it-  \\atej--  are  |>uritied  a-  in  a  u'l'eat  -ettlir- 

I,  ..-in.  Ill       il..       e\i-|e] of      -l|eh      a      lake      StallleV       fllllv      I  ••  - 

.  •!,  and   that   it    wa-  -.tie  of  , -on-id-  ral •!••  •  \tent.       He    furtl..  r 

-   r!:af    the     L'jNptiaii     \:!e    i-   t!ie    i--t|e  of'  the   iinitid     l»llle 

a:,'l    \\'h;!e    Nil--,    the    forni«-r    tl"\-,  in_'    fVoiu    the    montitainosis 

j-'-.ion-    of   .\l.v--in:a.  and    the    l.itt«-r    I'roin    the   t-juat-rial    lake 


LATKKT    XF.WS    I-'UOM    STAM.KV.  7J') 

system.  The  White  Xile  lio  (hinks  is  the  iVw?  Of  Lako 
Albert  Xyan/a,  which  derives  its  waters  from  the  vsiM  water 
Innd  that  ini  mod  lately  surrounds  it.  Tin-  Victoria  Nile  is 
the  issue  of  Lake  Victoria  N  van/a,  which  is  fed  l»v  numcr<>iH 
rivers,  such  as  the  Shimeeyu,  the  I>imia,  the  Kuana.  '1  he 
Kagecra  or  Lower  Alexandra  Nile  (so  named  br  Stanlcv  in 
honor  of  the  Princess  of  Wales)  issues  from  Alexandra  !al%e, 
which  latter  body  of  water  is  fed  from  sources  which  Staii!«-v 
had  not  then  explored. 

The  last  letter  from  Stanley,  dated  August  l.".;h,  reported  :m 
outbreak  of  small-pox  and  lever  in  the  district.  This  visitation 
obliged  him  to  make  preparations  for  an  immediate!  departure 
from  I'jiji.  His  intention  then  was  to  cross  the  coiintvv  to 
Nyan/a,  westward  of  the  northern  end  of  Lak*e  Tanganvika, 
and  on  the  Lnalaba  river.  It  had  l>ecn  several  months  since 
this  last  letter  reached  this  countrv,  and  the  abs< -nee  of  anv 
intelligence  from  Stanley,  coupled  with  the  somewhat  critical 
condition  in  which  he  was  placed  when  he  last  wrote,  had 
caused  much  apprehension  as  to  his  fate.  (Jreat,  thereti>re,  was 
the  rejoicing  when,  a  lew  weeks  ago,  the  news  reached  u-  that 
he  had  made  his  appearance  on  tin1  west  coast  of  Africa,  alter 
a  most  toilsome  and  dangerous  journey  across  the  continent, 
along  the  line  of  the  Lnalaba  and  ( 'otigo  rivers,  Ili-  latist 
letters  are  dated  from  Embowa,  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  August 
10th,  1S77,  where  he  arrived  on  Augu.-t  Sth,  with  only  11.", 
survivors  out  of  350  men  who  left  Zanzibar  with  him  in 
November,  1874. 

The  history  of  this  his  latest  triumph  and  suce.  —  f'til    though 
hazardous  journey,  is  full   of  interest   and  excitement.     (  "in- 
j>elled  to  leave  Vjiji,  as  before  said,  bv  an  outbreak  of  sir.:: 
])ox  and   fever  in  the  district,  he  and   his  followers  pushed 
way  along    the   right   bank   of   the    Lnalaba   to   the    N\an^\\e. 
This  was  the  most  northerly  point   reached  by  Cameron,  M  hen 
he  attempted  to  solve  the  mystery  of  the  <  "mi^o  and  it-  identiry 
with  the  main  drainage  line  of  the  Lualaba  ba-in. 

The  partv  travelled  overland   through    1   re^^a,  and   aft.  r  an 

arduous    march   of  many    days    through    a   country  filled    with 

many  difficulties,  being  compelled  to  transport    t  very  pound  «f 

supplies  of  all  kinds  on  the  shoulders  uf  his  men,  and  even   to 

44 


7-Vl  ATTACK KI>    RY    CANMIIAI.S. 

carry  along  in  a  similar  manner  the  exploring  boat,  the  I^aily 
Alice,  in  sections,  Stanley  at  last  found  himself  brought  to  n 
stand.-till,  further  progress  Wing  ren<lere<l  utterly  impracticable, 
•>uing  to  the  extreme  density  of  the  forests.  He  then  erossnl 
nver  t<>  the  left  bank,  and  continued  his  journev,  passing 
through  northeast  l"sku-a,  but  lure  the  difficulties  were 
-eareely  less  than  those  encountered  on  the  other  side.  The 
jungles  were  still  so  dense  and  the  fatigues  of. the  march  owing 
to  the  obstacles  to  IK-  overcome  so  harassing,  that  it  sevmed  irn- 
jMtssihle  to  break  through  the  tremendous  Iwirrier  of  the  forest. 
The  h'>rr«>rs  of  hi-  ]N»ition  were  still  further  augmented  by 
the  party  U-ing  oppo-ed  at  every  step  by  the  hostile  cannibal 
-avage-  who  fille<l  the  woods,  and  [nnired  into  the  devoted 
little  band  flights  of  poisoned  arrows,  killing  and  wounding 
many  of  their  number.  Kverv  attempt  to  propitiate  them,  or 
«  veil  to  retaliate  and  drive  them  off,  was  of  no  avail,  as  the 
natives  kept  under  cover.  Kvcn  the  famous  Elephant  gun, 
which  it  \\ill  be  remcmlx-rcd  Staidev  found  so  useful  as  a  "pro- 
pitiator" in  the  earlier  stages  of  hi.-  journev  from  Zan/.ibar, 
w:is  now  powerless. 

There  wa-  no  cc.-sati<>n  of  the  fighting,  which  was  kept  up, 
dav  and  night,  anv  attempt  at  camping  mcrelv  having  the  ell'ect 

•  it'  concentrating  the  enemy,  and  of  rendering   their    lire   more 
deadlv.     Tin-  march  wa-  a  -ucee--ioii  <-f  charges  in    rude  skir- 
mishing  order,  bv  an   advance  guard    cngagi-d    in   clearing   the 
road  liif  the  mam  Ixnlv,  while  a  rear  guard  in  like  manner  cov- 

•  •red  the  retreat.      In  lad,  the  pi-n^n-.-  ..fthe  partv  .-<'on  Ix-eame 
alni"-t  a  h«'pele>s  ta-k. 

'!••  increa.-e  st ill  further  hi-  troubles  and  render  hi-  po-ition 
m«in-  dejil<irable,  the  jtort.'r-  \\li'»m  Sianlev  had  engage«l  from 
\\  :IIIL'\M-,  nne  hundred  and  l»rtv  in  number,  de-erted  in  a  bmlv, 
!i'in_'  -M  |>anic-stricken  bv  tin-  t--rrnr-  of  th<-  fore-t,  and  the  fatal 

•  :"!'•  ••!-  of  the  fijhtiir_'.  that   tin  v  lirmlv  \«  li- -ved  th'-  »  niire  jiartv 
'-•..[•••  d'Hiiiud  IM  d-'-rrueriiiii.       N.I  .-...  .ner  .lid  tlie  h«i-tile  -avagcx 
',..•.,(111-   av/afi-nf  tin     d''|ieti.in    ..t'  th. -e    jM.rier-,   and    that    the 
rank-  of  Stanl*  v'-    part',-   had    b>  •  n    "••    matcriallv  thinind,  t  hail 

•  !iiv   mad<    a  -jrand  •  •!,::!.'.-  nj'"M    tli'-m.   expecting  t«i   completely 
'•i  u-li  ih»  m.      1'iiit  Stanl-'V  .'I'-j  ii«v.  d  a  d.  i"jn-ratc   r.-i-tanee,  and 
aft.  r  a  -'  \vp-and  \>\<r>  »K   -ti  u _'_•!>•  -u<  '••  -  di  d  in  ilriving  tlu-in  ofT 


PASSA(SK    OF    Till:    CATAKA'TH.  7.")1 

for  a  short  time,  sufficient  to  allow  him  to  adopt  measures  for 
an  escape  from  (heir  critical  situation. 

There  was  only  one  way  of  ex-ape,  ami  (hat  was  to  take  to 
the  river.  With  the  Lady  Alice  a-  a  la.-t  reliance,  and  good 
canoes  for  the  party,  Stanley  thought  they  would  have  a  inneh 
better  chance  to  elude  their  savage  lbc<,  and  to  make  .-nine 
advance  toward  their  destination. 

Although  Stanley  found  that  he  had  now  a  decided  advan- 
tage, still  each  day's  progress  was  hut  a  repetition  of  the  pre- 
vious day's  struggle.  The  fighting  continued  to  be  as  de-j>eratc 
as  ever  while  pushing  down  the  river,  and  before  manv  davc 
he  encountered  a  fresh  and  mo-t  formidable  obstacle  in  finding 
the  river  interrupted  bv  a  series  of  great  ca'.aracts  not  far  apart, 
and  just  north  and  south  of  the  ujtiator.  In  order  to  pa— 
these,  the  expedition  was  compelled  to  cut  a  road  through  thir- 
teen miles  of  dense  forest,  and  to  drag  the  canoes  and  the  Lady 
Alice  overland.  This  enormous  labor  entailed  the  most  ex- 
hausting efforts,  and  the  men  had  frequently  to  lay  down  the 
ax  and  drag-ropes,  and  sei/e  their  rifles  to  defend  themselves 
against  the  furious  onslaught  of  their  savage  enemy,  who  .-till 
relentlessly  pursued  them. 

At  last  the  passage  of  the  cataract  was  accomplished,  and  tin- 
party  again  embarked  on  the  river,  enjoying  a  long  breathing 
pause  and  comparative  security  from  attack. 

Notwithstanding  the  incessant  fighting  which  he  had  to  ^o 
through,  Stanley  still  lost  no  opportunity  of  noting  the  inter. -t- 
ing  changes  and  physical  characteristics  of  the  route,  .-o  ei.ol 
and  self-possessed  was  he  under  difficulties  which  would  have 
daunted  most  men.  At  two  degrees  of  north  latitude  he  note- 
that  the  course  of  the  Lualaba  swerved  from  its  almo.-t  northerlv 
course  to  the  northwestward,  to  the  westwird,  and  then  to  the 
south  west  ward,  developing  into  a  broad  -nvam.  varying  in  width 
from  two  to  ten  miles,  and  studded  with  i-'.ands. 

To  avoid  their  savage  eiiemv,  who  were  still  on  their  track, 
Stanley's  little  fleet  pas>ed  between  the.-e  i.-Iands,  taking  advan- 
tage of  the  cover. 

In  this  way  thev  succeed- 'd  in  making  a  progress  ,,f  many 
miles  without  being  molested,  but  being  cut  otV  from  supplies  in 
the  middle  of  this  great  river,  they  were  threatened  with  .-tarva- 


7-V2  ARRIVAL    AT   THE    ATLANTIC   COAST. 

tion.  For  three  whole  days  they  were  absolutely  without  food 
of  any  kiiul  :  and  at  last  driven  desperate,  Stanley  determined 
to  make  for  the  mainland,  preferring  to  die  at  the  hands  of  the 
eneinv,  if  need  I*',  rather  than  from  hunger  on  the  rivrr. 

Hy  the  singular  «;ood  fortune  which  seems  to  have  always 
attended  him,  thev  found  a  triln-  of  natives  who  were  acquainted 
with  trade,  and  who  were  willing  to  sell  the  provisions  so  sorely 
needed. 

At  thi<  point  the  river  was  called  "Ikuta  ya  Congo,"  and 
thereafter  the  name  "  Lualaba"  disappeared,  In-injr  replaced  a- 
tin-  river  npproaehetl  the  Atlantic  by  the  name  "  Kwanjro"  anil 
"  Zoure." 

I{e-ted  and  refreshed,  Stanley  pursued  hi<  journey,  following 
th«-  It-ft  bank  of  the  river,  but  in  three  days  after  leaving  the 
fri'-ndlv  village  he  found  himself  in  the  country  of  a  powerful 
frilx-  whose  warriors  were  armed  with  muskets,  and  \\lio  <ii*- 
|>uted  his  pa--a;_re,  refusinir  all  attempt-  at  conciliation.  Here, 
for  the  fir-t  time  -iuee  leaviiiLT  Nyangwe,  Stanlev  (i>und  him-elf 
o]ijn».eil  to  an  eneinv  of  eriual  finjting  as  to  :»rm~.  N«»«i Miner  was 
}\\*  approach  (liseovere*!  than  the  eneinv  mamieil  li ft  v-four  canoes 
nii'l  |nit  oil'  from  the  bank  of  the  river  to  attack  him.  For 
twelve  miles  down  the  river  the  battle  raided,  and  though  the 
e  \jied  it  ion  crime  out  of  the  con  M  id  with  c»  tin  paratively  small  lo-s, 
i-ou-ideriivj  the  M-veritv  of  tin-  combat,  it  \\a-  an  e-cape  nit  her 
than  a  victorv.  '\'\\\-~  was  the  la.-t  save  one  of  thirty-two  attack-; 
mad''  upon  Staidev's  partv  after  leaving  Nyanirwe. 

Aft'-r  twice  narrowlv  cM-j«j)injr  drowniti'j  in  t!i'-  falls  of  the 
( 'o!i_'o,  Stanlev  at  la-t  rea'-h'-d  Kmlxiwa,  ( 'oirjo  river,  ou  thf 
Atlantic  coast,  on  Au/u-?  sth.  1  S77. 

Tli''  Lualaba  or  '  '"ii-jo,  a-  it  run-  through  the  -jr«-at  ba-'in 
v.  !ii'-h  li--  b«-t\vc.-n  I 'I  aii'l  17  ea-t  lon^itU'h',  ha-  an  unintcr- 
PM  |i?'--l  coiir-c  of  over  7(  i'  >  mill  -,  \\  it  !i  1 1  ia  L-ni  tic,- nt  a  lib  lent-,  e-|»«-- 
ci  illv  on  the  -oiitheni  -id''.  Tli'-nc.  ,  cl.Mi'in-  t!i'-  l'i-oa'1  \»\l  of 
mountain^  between  th.-  -jr-at  ba-in  of  tli--  Atlantic  <M-ean.  the 


v   r  !..  t-.v.-n  the  fall- of   Y-llala  ami  th-  Atlantic. 
^'•i.il-'v'-j  lo--e-,  ibinti'_r  hi-  Ion-/  and  ternb!"  j"urn 

•  n'l!l''!lf.     Wefe    f.  -acfll  I  1  \"    -« 'Vel'e. 

!b     c.-n.-bi'l.-'.    hi-    il.-i.at«-h    tlm- :    "  I    :  iak-     th 


FIRST    VIEW    OF   THE  TANGANYIKA.  I'M 

from  liorna  by  steamer  to  Calinda,  and  proceed  thence  to  St. 
Paul  <le  Loatidu."  Stanley  has  shown  himself  to  be  one  of  the 
most  daring  and  intrepid  of  explorers.  He  hut)  not  only  cov- 
ered himself  with  glory,  but  more  than  justified  the  enterprise 
of  the  American  and  Knglish  newspapers  under  whose  auspices 
his  expedition  was  undertaken. 

A  brief  description  of  the  now  famous  Tanganyika  F^ake, 
around  which  so  much  interest  has  been  centred  and  associated 
with  the  names  of  Livingstone,  Stanley  and  Cameron,  may 
prove  of  interest  to  our  readers. 

This  lake  was  discovered  by  Burton  in  February,  1  *•!>'»,  and 
forms  part  of  that  wonderful  lake-system  in  Central  Africa 
which  has  been  the  subject  of  so  much  discussion  and  so  many 
different  theories  among  the  explorers  of  Africa. 

The  name  Tanganyika  means  "the  mixing  place,"  being 
derived  from  Ku-tanyanyu,  "  to  mix  or  shuttle.''  The  laet 
that  Cameron  found  no  less  than  ninetv-six  rivers,  be-ides 
torrents  and  springs,  flowing  into  the  portion  of  the  lake  that 
he  surveyed,  proves  this  name  to  be  well  deserved. 

On  the  18th  of  February,  1874,  just  fifteen  years  and  five 
days  from  the  time  that  Burton  discovered  it,  Cameron,  after  a 
long  and  arduous  journey,  first  cast  his  eyes  on  the  va.-t  Tan- 
ganvika  Lake.  At  first  he  could  barelv  reali/e  it.  Lving  at 
the  bottom  of  a  steep  descent  was  what  seemed  to  him  a  bright 
blue  patch  about  a  mile  long,  then  some  tree.-,  and  hevond 
them  a  great  gray  expanse,  having  the  appearance  of  sky  with 
floating  clouds. 

"That  the  lake?"  he  exclaimed  in  di.-dain,  looking  at  the 
small  blue  patch  below  him.  "Nonsense!" 

"  It  is  the  lake,"  his  men  persisted   in  saying. 

It  then  dawned  upon  him  that  the  va.-t  gray  expanse  was 
the  Tanganyika,  and  that  which  he  had  suppo.-ed  to  be  cloud 
was  the  distant  mountains  of  I  gonia;  whil.-t  the  blue  patch 
was  only  an  inlet  lighted  up  bv  a  passing  rav  of  sun. 

Hurrying  down  the  descent,  and  across  the  flat  at  the  bottom, 
which  was  covered  with  cane-grass  and  intersected  by  path-, 
made  by  hippopotami,  he  reached  the  >hore,  and  wa-  -mm 
pulled  across  in  boats  to  ICawele,  or  Ujiji,  as  it  is  called.  <>f 
which  we  have  all  heard  and  read  so  much  in  Stanley'.-; 
despatches. 


7"4  THK    N.\TIVF>    OF    UJIJI. 

Here  the  x-ene  was  grand.  To  the  \vest  wore  the  gigantic 
mountains  of  l"g""ia,  while  on  the  e:istern  shore  was  a  dense 
growth  of  i-aw-gra.-s  of  a  bright  grim.  Occasional  ojH'ii  spaces 
di-cloM-d  vellow  .-andv  Ix-achcs,  and  bright  nil  miniature  dill's 
with  pal  ill-tree?;  and  villages  clo.-e  to  the  water's  edge. 
Numerous  cano*.--,  moving  alxait,  and  gulls  and  darters,  gave 
life  to  the  .-rene;  and  di-tant  floating  inlands  of  gnus*  had  very 
much  the  appearance  of  lx>ats  under  s:.il. 

The  native-  of  Ijiji  aiv  rather  a  fine-looking  race,  but  have 
(he  reputation  of  being  a  verv  drunken  and  thieving  lot.  Thev 
are  good  .-m  it  Its  and  porters,  expert  fishermen  and  eanoe-men. 

Their  dre-s  usually  COIIMM-  of  a  single  piece  of  bark  cloth, 
with  two  corners  tied  in  a  knot  over  one  shoulder,  and  passing 
under  tin-  opposite  armpit.  It  i-  often  dved  in  Mrij>cs  and 
.-pot-  of  blaek  ami  vellow,  and  cut  to  imitate1  the  -hajn-  of  a 
leopard'-  .-kin.  It  h-avi-s  one  -Mr  of  the  bodv  perfectly  naktd, 
and  in  a  brci-/c  llap.-  about  in  Mich  a  manner  that  it  barely 
sati-fies  the  commone-t  n  <|iiirem. ut-  ofdeceiicv. 

Their  -j>e<-i;il  ornament.-  are  made  of  beautifully  white  and 
wonderfullv  poli-lnd  hippo]>otamtH  i\'i>r\'.  In  shajn.1  and  -ir.e 
thcv  repre-i  nt  the  bladi'  of'  ;i  fickle,  and  are  worn  hung  around 
the  neek.  Thev  a!-o  wear  a  profu-ioii  "f  -ambu,  small  bells, 
and  \\ire  bran-let.-.  'I  he  men  usuallv  carrv  a  -pear. 

Their  hair  i-  elippecl  an<l  shaved  into  mo-t  peculiar  patterns, 
-il<-li  a-  -piral-,  /i_r/:i'_r-,  tnt'l-  left  on  a  bare  -calj>.  or  round 
jiatehe-  -ha\-eii  in  the  centre  of  the  n-own  of  the  head  ;  and,  in 
short,  «  verv  eoiiivivable  \'aLrarv  in  shaving  in  l:ine\  dcvici-j*. 

It  \\a>  witli  the  ^i\-a!e-t  dillieiiltv  that  <'amer<m  siict-ccilinl 
in  Lri  !iiiiLr  Itoat-  to  -tart  on  hi-  -nrvev  «.f  the  Tanganyika  Lake. 
I-'.vi  rv  po--ible  exen-e  \\a-  made,  and  e\.  r\-  ol.-taele  thrown  in 
tip-  \\a\-.  and  it  u:t-  ii"t  till  a  month  aft'  i'  hi-  arrival  at  I'j'j' 
tha'  h--  mana_'(,l  |,,  make  a  -tart,  and  at  la-t  \\a-  actually 
"-.'.;!  iii_'  a1.',  av  o'i  t!ie  langanvika." 

T!.'       l".|!lt\-    of     t!],.     -e.-nerv    aloll^     the     -l|,,f,-     }|'      de-enbe-    a.- 

_T:HI  i  !  .  vnnd  di'-eriprioii.  Th-  \  ivid  jre<  n-  of'  \.HI.MI-  -hade- 
.•I:M'.;I/.|  t!,..  f.lia'j"-  "t  'he  tree-,  th«-  bright  n  d  -and-ton,-  elitl- 
and  '  !'ie  water,  f'»!  in-  1  a  eoinbinat  ion  of  eo]o|-  -eemiirj'  gaudy 
ut  \\l.i-ii  ua-  in  r>alit\' 


TIN:  PKICK  OF  SLAVICS.  ,.,.. 

Every  cape  they  passed  was  supposed  by  the  .-uperstitious 
boatmen  to  IK;  the  alxwle  of  some  devil.  One,  the  lias  Kobojo, 
a  kind  of  a  double  cape,  was.  said  by  them  to  In:  the  residence 
of  a  devil  and  his  \vifr;  one  eape  l>fing  inhabited  l>y  the  male, 
and  the  oilier  by  the  female  devil,  and  therel'ore  r-upposcd  to  b<; 
doubly  dangerous. 

Neither  the  he  nor  the  she  devil  were  visible,  but  the  pilot.- 
stood  together  in  the  bow  of  the  boat  to  make  an  oilering  to 
these  evil  spirits.  ( )ne  held  out  a  paddle,  mi  the  blade  of 
which  a  few  eomtnon  beads  had  been  plaeed,  and  both  said 
together,  as  nearlv  as  it  can  be  translated,  "  You  big  man,  you 
big  devil,  you  great  king,  you  take  all  men,  you  kill  all  men, 
you  now  let  us  go  all  right."  And  after  a  good  deal  of  bowing 
and  gesticulation,  the  beads  were  dropped  into  the  water,  and 
the  dread  evil  spirits  propitiated. 

Nine  davs  after  starting  they  rounded  lias  Kungwc,  and 
entered  on  a  part  of  the  lake  which  had  hitherto  never  been 
explored,  or  even  been  seen  by  any  white  man. 

lias  Kungwe  is  situated  near  the  narrowest  part  of  the  lake, 
here  only  fifteen  miles  across;  and  after  rounding  that  point, 
thev  passed  under  enormous  hills  clothed  with  trees,  and 
having  ervstal  torrents  and  waterfalls  dashing  down  their  sides. 

Patches  of  corn  amongst  the  jungle  denoted  the  haunts  of 
wretched  fugitive's  from  the  slave-hunters.  These  poor  crea- 
tures were  doomed  to  a  miserable  existence,  owing  to  the  few 
strong  villages  hunting  down  their  weaker  neighbors,  to  ex- 
change them  with  traders  from  I'jiji  for  food,  which  tiiev  are 
too  laxy  to  produce  tor  themselves.  The  price  of  a  .-lave  wa.- 
from  four  to  six  doti,  or  two  goat.-. 

The  mountains  continued  to  overhang  the  lake  for  .-ome  wav 
to  the  south,  then  receding  from  the  shore  allow  x-eondarv 
lines  of  smaller  gras-v  and  woodv  hills  to  H-r  between  thfiu 
and  it.  Skirting  alon^  the  shore,  thev  passed  elo-e  under 
nearly  vertical  eliil'-  of  sand-tone  a:id  black  marble.  Mn-aked 
with  white;  and  after  a  time  a  great  patch  of  what,  tnnn  the 
appearance  of  the  clearaire,  Cameron  believed  to  be  coal. 
From  specimens  obtained  afterwards,  it  was  undoubtedly  a 
light  bituminous  coal  ;  the  thickne.-s  of  the  principal  s«-am, 
which  lay  on  the  top  of  .-vnelinal  ciirvt  s  of  r<.ck,  \\a-  beiwe^n 
fifteen  and  eiirhteen  feet. 


7"Hl  KX<  HOACHMKNT    <>K    Till:    LAKE. 

At  the  month  of  thr  river  Musaimvira — which  drains  tlic 
Likwa  into  the  Tanganyika — is  a  group  of  sandy  gru&i-covered 
i-land-,  which  only  a  few  years  ago  had  been  part  of  a  large 
cultivated  ami  inhabited  plain,  tho  .-tumps  of'  trees  ami  silos  of 
old  villages  still  l>oing  visible.  According  to  the  aei-ounUs 
given  C'anitTon  bv  the  natives,  the  lake  is  constantly  encroach- 
ing upon  its  shores,  and  increasing  in  .-i/.c.  Kven  at  I  jiji, 
.-ino-  JiurtoM  was  there,  onlv  lift  em  vi-ars  before  Cameron,  a 
.-trip  of  more  than  six  hundred  vards  had  been  \va.-hed  away 
tor  a  distance  of  three  <»r  1'oiir  miles. 

I'unning  d»wn  the  -horc,  thev  pa.-.-ed  Ma.-.-i  Kambi,  and 
rounded  l!a-  Mpeinbe,  a  protnontorv  formed  of  enormous 
IIKI--CS  of  granite  piled  on  each  other  in  the  wildest  confusion, 
and  looking  as  though  some  race  of  Titans  had  commenced 
liiiilding  a  hreakwatcr. 

.Manv  i-land-  \vi-re  come  :UTO~-,  \\hich  ha«l  IM-CU  brought 
«lo\vn  l»v  the  v:iri«>n-  rivi  r-  flowing  into  the  lake,  more  like 
tli"--  of  the  Mi>.-i»ippi  than  ihe  ordinarv  ma--e-  of  floating 
vegetation;  and  one,  about  a  ipiarter  of  a  mile  in  diameter,  had 

*  "Ille  ^Iliall    t  Tec-  oil    It. 

At  lla-  Katanki  the  <:\-l  an<l  we>t  -hore>  i>f  the  lake  close  in, 
and  this,  Cameron  think-,  is  the  narrowing  of  Living-tune's 
Lake  Lieruha.  Here  the  hillr-  overhang  the  lake,  and  naviga- 
tion i~  rendered  verv  dangerous,  owing  to  the  nunii>er  of 
pinnaele-i  and  niher  n «•!<.-,  .-ome  l.einu'-  onlv  a  t",.t  m-  two  U'low 
the  -nrlaee  i pt  the  wafer. 

l'a--in_r  lvha>  ('haknol:i  mi  April  ,'ih,  the  rivi-r  ('haknola 
v.a-  reached,  and  the  Makakoimi  I-!and-,  \\hi--h,  ao'onling  to 
(lie  '_'iii.i«  -.  had  li'-en  once  pail  of  the  mainland,  even  \\ithin 
their  nwii  remi'inhranii'. 

At  Ilha-  Makiirungwe,  Hiiue  remarkable  ma--e-.  ut  granite 
wi-fe  -eeu,  t  \\  1 1  in  parlieiilar  t'«\\enn^  up  above  ihe  \-<  ~-\  in  a 
hei_'ht  ut'  -A'ehtv  i«r  ei-^hf  v  t'-ef.  like  a  pair")'  ^ianf  brotln-rs; 
and  hii_re  bltiek-  \\ere  -lp-\\n  al"'iit  in  the  \\ilc|r-t  ciinlii-ion. 
'I  !n-  native-  In  re  met  \\ith  \\.i-e  el.. thed  iii  -kin-,  bark  elntli.  or 
ti-ft'-n  "I  their  .pun  maiiulaeliire,  their  dp--  bein^  -u-peiided 
(•••'i:jd  their  \vai-t  bv  P>pe  a-  thiek  a-  the  littl.-  (in-.-i,  bound 
i.-.rl\  \\jth  bra--  \\ii~e.  Th'-ir  hair  ua-  an»in1ed  \\ith  "il  in 


PUIMIT1VK    MOUK    OF   8P1NMXG    <  OTTO.V.  7o7 

Maknkira,  a  village  on  n  river  of  tlie  same  name,  which  was 
next  reached,  was  a  large  place  with  a  ditch  run  ml  it,  and  a 
stockade  banked  nj>  on  the  outside.  The  chief,  who  received 
Cameron,  was  rather  a  formidable-looking  personage.  He  was 
profusely  greased,  had  a  patch  of  lampblack  on  his  chest  and 
forehead,  and  wore  a  tiara  of  leopard-claws  with  the  roots  dyed 
red,  and  behind  it  a  tuft  of  coarse  whitish  hair.  A  pair  of 
leopard-nkin  aprons,  a  few  circles  of  yellow  grass  below  his 
knees,  a  ring  of  sofi  on  each  ankle,  and  a  fly-flapper  witli  the 
handle  covered  with  beads,  completed  his  attire. 

At  a  village  further  on,  Miki.sungi,  the  native  proee.-s  of 
spinning  cotton  was  witnessed,  and  deserves  a  brief  description. 
An  old  chief,  named  Mpara  (iwina,  was  bti-y  spinning  with 
another  man,  while  their  wives  and  daughters  sat  near  picking 
the  seeds  out  of  freshly  gathered  pods.  The,  fibre  was  laid  in 
heaps  by  the  side  of  the  chief  and  his  friend,  who,  spindle  in 
hand,  were  making  it  into  yarn.  The  wooden  spindles  were 
about  fourteen  inches  long,  and  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  with 
a  piece  of  curved  wood  as  a  weight,  half  an  inch  from  the  top, 
where  a  small  wire  hook  was  fixed.  The  cotton  was  first 
worked  between  the  forefinger  and  thumb  into  a  rough  tape 
about  half  a  vard  long,  and  then  hooked  to  the  spindle,  which 
was  rolled  along  the  right  thigh  to  give  it  a  rapid  spinning 
motion.  The  yarn  was  held  in  the  left  hand — the  spindle 
hanging  from  it — and  the  right  forefinger  and  thumb  were 
nsed  to  prevent  anv  irregularities  in  the  size  of  the  thread. 
As  soon  as  a  length  was  spun,  it  was  unhooked  and  wound 
around  the  spindle,  and  more  cotton  was  prepared,  hooked  on, 
and  spun  in  the  same  manner. 

The  yarn  turned  out  bv  these  means,  though  coarse,  i-  fairlv 
strong  and  wonderfullv  regular  in  si/e.  It  is  afterwards 
wound  on  sticks  about  four  feet  long,  used  a.-  shuttles  in 
weaving. 

Tlu*  profile  of  the  natives  here  was  good,  their  no-es  beitiLT 
Roman.  The  head-  of  moi-t  of  them  wen1  eompletelv  covered 
with  pipe-stem  beads,  each  .-trung  on  a  M-parate  tuft  of  hair, 
an  arrangement  which  must  be  uncomfortable,  and  i-  not  at  all 
prepossessing,  having  too  much  the  appearance  of  -eules. 
Those  who  cannot  afford  bead-  imitate  the  fashion  bv  making 


7.">S  l»Kl'AKTrUK    FROM    fJIJI. 

their  wool  into  Mobs,  and  gro:i-:i:g  it  until  one  couKl  uot  detect 
the  separate  fibres. 

Ix-aving  Mikisungi  on  April  loth,  and  pacing  the  rivers 
Mundewli  and  Muomesa,  and  the  villages  of  Kasaiigalowa  ami 
Mambcna,  they  U-gan  to  lo.-c  sight  of  the  land  of  rorks.  On 
the  ont-idc  of  I'olnngo  Inland  were  enormous  ma.—es,  scattered 
and  piled  in  the  mo-t  fantastic  manner,  vast  overhanging  block-, 
rock  ing-stones,  obeli.-ks,  pyramids,  and  everv  form  imaginable. 
The  whole  w  a.-  overgrown  with  trees  jutting  out  from  every 
crevice  where  .-oil  had  lodged,  and  from  them  hung  envj>er* 
fiftv  and  sixtv  f«'«'t  Ion::,  \\hile  through  this  fringe  eonld  lx* 
got  (M-ctL-ioiial  urlimp»<--  of  hollows  and  caves. 

Tht-v  had  now  \vrv  m-arlv  n-arht-d  tin-  extreme  southern 
«;lid  of  the  lake,  which  tln-v  -ucccrdid  in  doiji^  on  April  IStll, 
ju-t  one  month  and  fiv«-  da\  -  al'd-r  -tarlinj  from  1  jiji. 

(  )n  the  following  dav  tln-v  rro--<-d  the  lake  and  l»«-gan  work- 
ing northward,  along  the  oppo-ite  .-hoiv,  .ni  their  way  Iwiek  to 
I'jiji.  \\hich  latter  p!ac.-  th'-v  r<:ti-!i--l  on  Mav  Hlh. 

Here  lie  remain'  d  until  Mav  Ll'Jd  K.'i'ore  IP-  eonld  make  a 
move,  o \vin-j:  partlv  to  .-icktie-s  and  partly  to  a  protracted 
drunken  or^i«-  of  hi-  native  lollower-,  \vho  er!el>rated  their  la-t 
dav- at  I  jiji  in  thi-  stvle.  At  Nvan^we,  ( 'ameron's  exjn-eta- 
tion-  and  hope-  \\-»  re  rai-ed  to  the  hi^he-t  pitch  of  hein^r  al>!(! 
t"  '_r'-t  l>oat.-  and  tloat  do\vn  the  then  unknown  watei>  of  the 
K oni:o  Kiver  to  tin-  \\e-t  ('<ia-t.  To  ivadi  Nyangwe  \\a-  a 
lon^'  and  diHi'-iili  jonriH  v,  and  \\'a-  only  accomplished  at't«  r 
innnmerahli  ditliculties  and  ilangi  r-,  ( 'ainemn  arriving  thi-re 
on  AM_MI-(  '•'»},  1S7I.  <  >ur  -]>:i'  ••  <\i>--~  \\«l  permit  u-  to  t_rive 
a:i%'  ih-'ail-  of  thi-  j»uni'  \  ,  \\'hi«  h  i-  lull  of  int>  \->-\.  1'iit  a  li-\v 
v.,,1,1-  r«-^:irdin_'  tin-  conntrv  «l'  Manviit-ma,  through  which  he 

p4--''l,    til'       p«  up!.-     of    \\lllcll    diflefetl     -i     milch      111    "\i-rv    re-peet 

jV"!u  an\'  tli  it  h«-  had  pr«  \  i"ii-l\  -«-i  n,  luav  !•«•  o(  int.  r.  -t  to  our 
P.'id.-r-.' 

Tii'  -tpet-  i.t'  tli<ir  villa;"'  had  th--  lull-  ranu'1  d  soiiietinicH 
;,:!.i'!-!,  a;id  n*  o'lj.  r-  ra«liating  ti"!:i  a  lar-j11  ''iiir.il  -pa«'«-  ; 
tie!r  Iiri'li1  !••!  wall-  :i!id  -loping  f""!-  ilitliiiii'/  limn  anv 
!.;•:,.''••  in-?  with.  In  ill--  mi'l'l!'  of  th.'  -tp'-1  wip-  p:ila\cr 
l.u'  -,  p  i'.  in  !  i  •••  - ,  aii'l  ;:  r:mai'i«  -. 

It    ei"ht    ill'  he- 


CAMERON  S    HOPES    ABANDONED.  7',:> 

wide  nml  reaching  to  their  knees.  They  carried  a  single  heavy 
spear,  and  a  small  knife  with  which  to  eat  their  food.  Tin- 
heads  of  the  males  were  generally  phistered  with  Hay,  so 
worked  in  with  the  hair  a.s  to  form  cones  and  plates.  JJetwccn 
the  clay  patches  the  sculp  was  shaven  perfectly  bare. 

The  women  had  good  figures,  and  were  better- look  ing  than 
any  formerly  met  with.  Their  dress  was  particularly  simple, 
consisting  only  of  a  cord  round  the  waist,  and  two  small  gra>s 
cloth  aprons.  The  front  one  was  about  the  size  of  a  half  sheet 
of  ordinary  note  paper,  and  that  at  the  back  just  a  triile  larger. 

Notwithstanding  their  extremely  small  dimensions,  these 
aprons  were  often  elaborately  stitched  and  ornamented  with 
beads  and  cowries;  and  when  the  women  went  working  in  the 
fields  or  fishing  in  the  stream,  they  took  oil'  these  gay  clothes 
for  fear  of  spoiling  them,  and  replaced  them  with  a  small  bunch 
of  leaves. 

Cameron's  long  cherished  idea  of  tracing  the  Congo  to  its 
mouth  had  to  be  abandoned  after  all,  in  spite  of  the  most 
persevering  and  energetic  efforts  on  his  part  to  carrv  it  out. 
It  wa^  left  for  Stanley  to  solve  this  Congo  problem,  as  we  have 
shown  in  a  previous  part  of  this  chapter. 

In  conclusion,  we  may  add  a  lew  words  as  to  the  state  of 
trade  and  communication  in  Africa,  and  the  future  of  this  v:i>t 
continent. 

Enough  has  been  discovered  and  reported  by  explorers. 
Cameron  and  others,  to  prove  the  existence  of  incalculable 
wealth  in  tropical  Africa,  and  the  question  now  before  the 
civili/ed  world  is,  how  the  vast  latent  resources  of  the  countrv 
can  be  developed,  and  how  that  blot  on  the  boasted  civilization 
of  the  nineteenth  century,  "the  cursed  slave-trade,"  can  be 
removed.  Slaves,  ivory,  beeswax  and  India  rubber,  are  now 
the  only  articles  exported  from  either  coast,  with  the  exception 
of  a  small  and  local  trade  in  gum-copal  and  grain. 

Of  these,  slaves  and  ivorv  occnpv  such  a  very  prominent 
position  that  it  would  be  hardlv  worth  while  mentioning  the 
other  articles  were  it  not  that  the  fact  of  there  being  a  trade  in 
them  proves  that  commerce  in  other  articles,  besides  ivory  and 
slaves,  might  be  made  profitable. 

Ivorv  is  not   likelv  to  last  for  very  long  as  one  of  the  main 


700  FUTTKE   OF    AKHICA. 


from  Africa;  for  the  ruthless  manner  iu  which  tlie 
elephant*;  are  destroyed  has  already  begun  to  show  its  results. 
Fortunately  tin-  vegetable  and  mineral  products  of  this  remark- 
able land  are  ctjual  in  variety,  value,  and  quantity  to  thu-e 
of  the  mo-t  favored  portions  of  the  globe;  and  there  will  l>e  no 
dinienlty  in  finding  other  lucrative  >our»-es  of  trade  whieh  may 
ivphuv  that  in  ivory  and  .-laves. 

Among  some  of  the  products  whieh  may  form  valuable 
article>  of  trad<-,  and  which  are  abundant  in  different  set-lions 
of  the  continent,  may  IK-  enumerated  sugar-i-me,  c-otlon,  oil- 
palm-,  coffee,  toluuvo,  ca-t<>r-oil  plant,  nutmeg-,  Jwpper,  rice, 
wheat,  Indian  corn.  India  rnl»l>er,  copal,  hemp,  and  beeswax. 
Among  minerals  arc  iron,  coal,  copper,  gold,  silver,  cinnabar, 
and  -alt.  The  {.Tent  question,  a-  we  have  .slid,  is  whether  the 
-l;tvc  trade  in  Afi  i<-.i,  \\  hich  can-is,  at  the  lowest  estimate,  an 
annual  lo-s  of  over  half  a  million  live*,  according  to  Cameron, 
i-  to  in;  permitted  to  continue. 

All  tlio-e  \\lio  are  int-  re-ted  in  -cieiitifu-  rt>eaivh  .-honld 
unite  in  a  .-v.-iem  uf  *v-ti-mati<-  exploration,  and  a-  trade  is 
OJH-IH  d  ii[>  and  advance*,  into  the  interior,  hand  in  hand  with 
cjvili/.ation,  ruav  \vi-  hojie  that  this  traflic  in  ,-lave.-.  -hall  be 
-tamped  out. 

(  )|H.'ninj^  up  projn-r  line*  of  communication  will  do  much  to 
eh.  el;  the  trallic  in  human  tl'-h,  and  the  extcn-ion  of  h-jfitimale 
coitmieree  will,  Iw-vuiid  all  doubt,  ultimately  put  an  end  to  it 
altogether. 

In  eon<-lu-«ion,  thi-   ^rand  r«  -lilt  of  Stanley'-  la-t  and  t_rreate-t 

•  xplora'ion-  h:i-  -olvcd  t  wo  n\  N-i-t  of  the  ^rcal  probh-no  whu'h 
I  ,i\  in.'-fon.    labop-d  and  lo*t  hi-  lit<-  in  th--  attempt  to  di>eover: 
tin'    of    HP-    Shini'-evn    rivi-r,    the    lon^'-'-t    tribnlarv    o|     halve 
\'i--!ori:i    Nvan/.:i,    and    tli<-    true    -i.iire.-   .if    the    NI!I-;   and    h:- 
tr.finj  the  Lualaba  to  th>*  Xain*   or   (  i.n_'o,   an«l    pro\m^    them 

•  ••  !..    on--  and  tip-  -am«-  river,  though  known    to    tin-    nat»v«--    bv 
.1   -.-MI-.-  ,,f  .li;V'-r<  nt    naiii--.      .\-\\--   li.iv-    -houn.  lioth    Liviirj- 

-.  'lie  and  <  'am«To!i  att'-mpt'  •!   to  iraei-  :  h.-   Lualaba  to  the  <«  can, 

i''it   HI--V  both  had  I-  i  n  coiiipi-||<-d  !..  r<  -liinpii-h    Hi"-    attempt   by 

;  nip1  IK  t  rable  jun^Ks  and  th--  ho-lilitv  ot  jei-oei.in-  naliv-  tribe-. 

I'   '\a-  ri--'-rve.|  to    H.  nrv   M  .  Staiih-v  to   aehie\,    tlii*  -r-  a!   -uc- 

--,  •.•.lii'l.    -sill    have    the    .  tl'eet    of  ojwnin^   up    that    immen-c 


C'lCKWT    DI'K   TO   THK    I'HKKS.  -(•,{ 

productive  continent  to  the  civilization  and  commerce  of  the 
world. 

The  groat  mass  of  men  look  only  at  results,  and  give  tlio*c  who 
succeed  the  credit  without  taking  much  pains  to  ascertain  the 
means  whereby  thev  were  accomplished.  Without  detracting 
aught  from  the  indomitable  bravery,  endurance,  military  genius, 
and  Bound  judgment,  which  arc  so  conspicuous  in  Stanley,  and 
which  have  gained  for  him  the  reputation  of  the  greatest  ex- 
plorer of  this  or  any  other  age,  we  must  not  forget  to  give  credit 
to  the  means  by  which  alone  he  was  able  to  accomplish  what 
he  did.  His  expedition  was  sustained  by  the  enterprise  and 
liberality  of  the  New  York  //i-mA/and  the  London  Telcyraph — 
the  press  thus  achieving  what  kings  and  nations  had  failed 
to  do. 

Verily,  the  press  is  a  power  in  this  age  of  the  world. 


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